Rockfax Description
The finest route on the crag. Start in a small damp gully.

1) 5b, 45m. Climb straight up to a small triangular overlap. Move over this and climb diagonally left to reach a crack. Trend back right to the base of the long slanting crack. Make a tough move to gain the crack proper and follow it to a ledge.
2) 12m. Scramble onto Bilberry Ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

geoff b 27/Aug 2nd

What a brilliant route: 5 stars. Brilliant climbing, brilliant rock, great holds, loads of good gear. Mike managed it in one pitch to the back of the ledge on 50m ropes. Must lead it.

Rob Pitt 27/Aug 2nd
with Lou
Hidden 27/Aug Lead rpt
Graeme Hammond 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Chris Hindley
DubyaJamesDubya 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Great climb. Sustained rather than 'cruxey'.

with Joe Harris
Ian Jones 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Wonderful delicate climbing on beautiful rock. Bone dry after a night of drizzle.

with Dan Moore (DCD)
Hidden 25/Jul/15 2nd
Dan724 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Marti999 18/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Debbie
wi11 22/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tim Neill
Glyn 21/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 21/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Best route I've done in a long time.

with John Leighton, Glyn Hudson
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Lessworkmoreclimbing 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Could have led. Easier than left wall! NB abseil from bilberry ledge best with a few long slings to bring rope right to edge of ledge - borrow sufficient or go with others.

with Kev
Hidden 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
msoldn 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Sam (tree surgent)
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/14 2nd
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 2nd
with Al George
dswansonlow 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Keith Jackson
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd
Misha 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Great route on an awesome crag but the approach is a ball ache! Note to self: next time, opt for the double abseil rather than the walk. A steep and uncompromising line, sustained but has some rests and the holds are generally good if a bit dirty (needs more traffic!). I thought the hardest bit was moving left then right round the rooflet as that was strenuous. The moves right into the crack were more technical. Interest was maintained going up the crack. With the Pinnaclissima finish and the big walk in and out, it was a great mountain day out. The swirling low clouds added character but it was still very warm. Can't believe this isn't in Hard or Extreme rock, it's really good!

with Ed
adam 24 07/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
eduardo 07/Jul/13 2nd dog

Pumpy and sustained

with Misha
Hidden 25/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
markalmack 26/May/13 Lead O/S

well good!

Hidden 26/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/13 -
Duncan Campbell 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Bloody brilliant, sticky juggy rock! Great wall climbing in a lovely secluded position.

with Bubbles
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
John Postlethwaite 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with liam
Adam Booth 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Dirty today

with Tom Jumar
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd O/S
soph ??/2010 Lead
with Graham scofield
soph ??/2010 Lead
with Graham scofield
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd
tumbling wizard ?/Apr/07 Lead
datoon 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with RT & JB
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
lukea 01/Jun/03 2nd O/S
with Al
Hidden ??/2000 -
uphillnow 04/Jun/97 -
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/97 -

Originally climbed with Rick Kruze about 3 years earlier. A stunning pitch! We actually climbed the new Idwal guide cover to cover! This route on the back and Milestone Super Direct on the Front cover on the week it was first published.

with Rick Kruze, Keith Bolton
Hidden ??/1997 2nd
michael burrows 25/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/95 Lead
Bullybones ??/1995 -
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
Cowflinger 17/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
Johnny Baker ??/1994 -
with Duncan Spence
Roget 06/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 26/Apr/87 2nd
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
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High E3
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