UKC

Rockfax Description
The most famous route at Tremadog is showing signs of over-climbing, and does get very chalky since much of it never gets rained on, but the positions and line are phenomenal. Start up and right of One Step in the Clouds on a large flake.
1) 5a, 15m. Step off the flake and climb a groove, then step onto a slab on the right. Follow a corner up and left then move left again to the belay.
2) 5c, 25m. Climb up right past a small spike to a difficult crack which leads to a massive spike. Make hard moves up to the base of a groove. Another brave move right leads onto the infamous 'Ochre Slab'. Climb the slab then move left into another groove. At its top, move left below the roof to gain the cave stance. Up to this point can often be climbed in light rain, then you can abseil off.
3) 5b, 20m. Traverse left, then pull diagonally leftwards over a roof onto another hanging slab. Continue left to the final layback corner (some people find getting into this the crux), then swarm up the crack to the belay on One Step in the Clouds.
4) 4b, 15m. Move up and right to just left of the flake of One Step in the Clouds and make thin moves up the wall to a memorable mantelshelf to gain a large ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Hard Rock , The Tremadog 'V's' , North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Alex's Wales ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , ICAS Climbing Club , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Caelan visits , Extreme 2018 , Tremadog 2018/2019 , UK Holiday Plans , E is for Easy... Right? , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Hard Rock 2020 , Definitive *** Tremadog , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , May Trip Target List , Big Boy Pants , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Dunc's ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
jeanclaudehandjam 10 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Led P1+4. Toe popped on the slab and had to weight rope to retrieve cam on P3. Tough. Great clean lead by Matt
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Led P1+4. Toe popped on the slab and had to weight rope to retrieve cam on P3. Tough. Great clean lead by Matt
Spottykidfromstourbridge 18 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Woody went from overwhelmed to cruising it in style..!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Woody went from overwhelmed to cruising it in style..!
TwofoZeus 24 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The P2-P3 belay has good in situ gear and we left a blue DMM nut (left by another team?) for the anchor.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The P2-P3 belay has good in situ gear and we left a blue DMM nut (left by another team?) for the anchor.
benrhyd 19 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Worth being careful with the smaller spike to the right of the main one at the first stance, sounds a bit wobbly and not quite as good as it appears at first
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worth being careful with the smaller spike to the right of the main one at the first stance, sounds a bit wobbly and not quite as good as it appears at first

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 164
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 160
Votes cast 160
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lethal Injection

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Twll Mawr)

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