UKC

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A thrutchy chimney leading to more open climbing above. Start below the chimney.
1) 4c, 35m. Climb the chimney - harder inside, easier, but bolder outside. From the top of the chimney step left and climb the flake and wall to a belay at the base of a big flake/pinnacle.
2) 4c, 18m. Climb the flake/pinnacle then make hard moves left past a polished and often-damp crack to a fin. Move up and right to gain a shallow groove. Climb this to its end and then move right onto the final slab. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
No longer climbable after significant rock removal. Now climbed as Momentum E2 6a.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Through Routes! , MIA logbook must haves! , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge , CUMC Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying , High Quality Adventure routes , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Michelle's crack ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Welsh Roadtrip , Martin’s 1980’s Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
treesrockice 14 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Shadrach or something similar at VS looks like it would still be possible by starting up the first pitch of Emily Street going left before the crux, or going up Meshach and not traversing left. Finding a top pitch at about VS looks probable by going up a crack between the ledge where the block was and the line of Blinkers then heading right to join what has always been the final part of the line into the corner and up.
Show beta
βeta: Shadrach or something similar at VS looks like it would still be possible by starting up the first pitch of Emily Street going left before the crux, or going up Meshach and not traversing left. Finding a top pitch at about VS looks probable by going up a crack between the ledge where the block was and the line of Blinkers then heading right to join what has always been the final part of the line into the corner and up.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 181
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 88
Votes cast 156
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kirkus's Route

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Craig Lloer)

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