Stromboli** HVS 5a
[Pulling through the jugs on stromboli, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
The most popular route on the buttress takes a strong line up grooves between the two blocks of roofs. Steep and sustained climbing on generally big holds. Abseil to a ledge below the central section of the crag. From the ledge, move up to the wide chimney capped by a roof. Move left below this via some undercuts to a good jug. Head up the slab to a groove that leads up to and through a roof onto another slab. Move up to the final roof and climb it direct via a long reach that often falls short of the jug you were aiming for, dig deep and go for it again. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: Pulling through the jugs on stromboli © Tomprusk
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 274 logbooks, and on 32 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/15

rushy11111918 - 2nd - 31/Jul/15 with David

good climbing pretty hard stuff , the undercut move was difficult and the final move very hard , rewarding tho !
Pinguville - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/15 with George

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead - 04/May/15

GStone - 2nd O/S - 04/Apr/15 with Marcus Harvey

Hidden - 2015

jcw - 2015

jshields - 2nd - 06/Sep/14 with Martin Lancaster

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 29/Jul/14

Phill Mitch - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/14 with gaz

found this stupidly hard. Not sure if we tackled the wrong side of the overhang at the top.
jmills94 - 2nd dog - 04/May/14 with Neil McCallister

greglad - 26/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Mar/14

Si - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

mark mcgowan01 - Nov/13 with Esther Bott

Fantastic climb. Would love to second next time. My 2nd HVS. 3 great overhangs. Climbed with
Tina Wilkinson - TR dog - 04/Sep/13 with Nick Marriott, James MacHaffie, David Barber

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/13

Owain Llewelyn - 2nd - 25/Jun/13 with Gareth E

Hidden - Lead - 28/May/13

abd down to just do second pitch as first not worth it, lots of jugs, and lots of sun!
rachelpearce01 - 2nd - 17/May/13

Abbed in for just 2nd pitch
Mr Tickle - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Mar/13

Tim Sparrow - 2nd - 17/Feb/13 with Piers Nesbitt

Nick Biven - 2013

PAJames - 2013

Dom Cordner - TR O/S - 11/Sep/12

Used to be able to do this easly, advancing yeras and increaing lack of flexibility in my hips meant that I could'nt do the high step up on the final move.
Pete Nugent - Lead dnf - 26/Aug/12 with Pete Blackburne (Blacky)

Brilliant route!
Ceridwen - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Pete Staves

nic42 - AltLd - 04/May/12 with al

shoulders - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12 with dai

Bruce Houston - Lead O/S - Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/12

BenRyle - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/12

Callum Anderson - 2012

chrisallan - Lead dog - 05/Nov/11

Abbed in top pitch only. First pitch looked crap so didn't bother. Nice route going through some cool terrain for the grade.
jezb1 - 2nd - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Sep/11

kdalzell - 2nd - 16/Aug/11 with Liam Fleming

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/11

TimKnight - TR O/S - 02/Aug/11

zukator - 2nd - 13/Jun/11 with Sarah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11

hard approach for first timmer
dan ely - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/11 with steve

Hidden - Lead - 25/Apr/11

First pitch is completely overgrown and inaccessible. Second pitch is a lot of fun, glad I was only seconding though as the big jug at the top is hidden and I was slightly too short to reach it, had to make a move off a tiny crimp to get it. Fantastic route though!
Tala M - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Simon Palmer

simeclimb68 - Lead rpt - 27/Mar/11

Jackspratt - TR O/S - 22/Mar/11

happy_c - TR - 22/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/Mar/11

Back and footed up the groove to the left of the in situ cam (where the topo shows the route going, odd), felt like solid E2 5c in this way. Very confusing but enjoyable!
david morse - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/11 with chris todd

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jan/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

paddywalsh11 - 2nd - 23/Nov/10

maffujones - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/10 with Mark

After a first pitch of, thanks to the unmatched topographical skills of Kenton Cool, exceptional esoteric and botanical interest, the second pitch was a delightful sequence of balancey and thoughtful overhangs, much enlivened by the antics of messrs Emmett and Gresham on the adjacent Cardiac Arete (thanks Luke!)
mattgrange - 2nd - 11/Oct/10

As eloquently described by Matt Grange, but the route being assaulted by Mr. Emmett and Mr. Gresham was in fact Cardiac Arete.
luke2442 - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/10

marky65 - 2nd - 11/Oct/10 with Matt

spidey - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with adam

Initially intended to do this as a warm up route. Didn't read the approach description in the guide book and foolishly decided to come in from the Peuterey Buttress. There was no obvious path along the cliff base, so ended up going to the top and traversing along a field at the top of the crag. This brought us to the Upper Tier, where we did an attractive line that took our fancy (Quatre Fois Direct VS 4c, which Tom did with a superdirect finish up a bold slab at E1 5a). We then descended Helsinki Gully to have a look for Stromboli. At this point it started to rain and we whiled away the time by bashing around in the jungle in an attempt to locate the route. Eventually realised we were too far to the right and at last found the first pitch right next to the bottom of the gully. This pitch seemed to mostly involve scrambling on tottering vegetation, which didn't appeal in the slightest. Did Helsinki Wall instead as this was dry. While checking out the top out on that route to make sure it was dry, saw someone belaying at the top of Stromboli who kindly pointed out the ab point. Abbed in after doing Helsinki Wall. The holds on the initial slab were wet but it wasn't too hard. Saw a bat (?) hiding in a crack. Really good, varied pitch, I'd give it three stars. The alternative finish up an overhanging crack just left of the normal finish was particularly fun, involving jamming in a crack with ferns growing out of it and a quality belly flop (unintentional - I just didn't spot the normal finish). It started property pissing it down as I was pulling the ropes through but Tom managed to second ok. Retired to the pub after that.
Misha - Lead - 18/Sep/10 with Tom

Abbed in to tree belay and did last pitch,other section overgrown.
ritchierich - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Steve Joynson

Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/10

mtempest - AltLd - 29/Aug/10 with Steve Waters, Mynydd

Finally found the start of this climb (by descending the descent gully from the western end of the top of the crag - don't go all the way to the bottom of the crag - it's about 25m up and obvious when you find it) and well worth the search... 3 great sequences make an action packed main pitch. Superb.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - AltLd - 29/Aug/10 with Mike Tempest

clive-greenwood - AltLd - 18/Jul/10 with Dave Clarke

the topo couldn't be more off!
msoldn - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/10 with Mark

P2 only. Abbed in
christoph owen - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/10 with Mike L

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jun/10

Magsy - TR - 07/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10

feilx - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Heather

Shauna - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Jules

JulesV - 2nd O/S - 30/May/10 with Shauna Cunningham

Lunar25 - Lead O/S - 30/May/10

Hidden - 2nd - 16/May/10

when u think its over... there was a hard mantle! ended up belly flopping it. did this route again on second 9/10/10 turns out i did the wrong finish! right crack is much easier
adam06 - Lead - 16/May/10 with andy davies

P2 only
dicky79 - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Pete

Hidden - 2nd - 02/May/10

Hidden - Lead - 02/May/10

hervenuttall - Lead O/S - May/10 with alex

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/10

Hidden - 2nd - May/10

RachelP - Lead - 21/Apr/10 with Jamie

Sam W - 2nd - 10/Apr/10

Pitch 2 only. Much easier than it looks!
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Sophie Whyte

Top pitch only after rapping in. Great pitch. Got to second it again later to get out after retrieving gear from cardiac arete to allow fennerz to keep his onsight.
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10 with fennerz and will nichols

Top pitch only after rapping in. Great pitch. Got to second it again later to get out after retrieving gear from cardiac arete to allow fennerz to keep his onsight.
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10 with fennerz and will nichols

fennerz - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Ed Booth and Will Nicholls

r.greaves - 2nd - 06/Mar/10 with steve coughlan

MarkDavies36 - 2010

mr mills - 2010 with joe chorley

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

simeclimb68 - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Good fun with a macro feel.
Alex Mason - 2nd β - 2010 with Herve

Hidden - 2010

soph - 2010

Abbed in and climbed the top pitch only. Brilliant pitch worth 3 stars easy.
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Alan Smith

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09

barni - Lead β - 09/Aug/09 with Strong Jon

mynyddresident - Aug/09 with geraint

Hidden - Jul/09

GScot38 - Lead O/S - Jun/09

frost - AltLd - May/09 with D Garry

Tomprusk - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Dad

popov86 - Lead - 18/Jan/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

RB1 - Lead O/S - 06/Dec/08 with carlene hill

Carly - 2nd O/S - 06/Dec/08 with Richard

Hidden - TR - 19/Nov/08

Brown - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Henry

Glyn - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/08 with Barni

barni - 2nd - 10/Sep/08 with Glyn

Keith Jones - 2nd - 22/Aug/08 with Graham

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - Aug/08

Lloyders - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Sophie

RachubAndy - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08 with Mills

paddygoodwin - Lead β - 26/May/08 with Steve

stevepotter - 2nd - 26/May/08 with paddygoodwin

Top pitch only.
Rich Kirby - 2nd O/S - 10/May/08 with Nige

nige - Lead - 10/May/08 with richard kirby

Hidden - Lead - May/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/08

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 20/Feb/08 with Dad

Sgt. Vest - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with james andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08

Matt Vigg - 2008

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

roberto18 - 2008

Hawkscry - 2008

Marcus - 2008

Ray led top pitch didnt do first pitch as its the same start as Olympic slab
sdawson1 - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/07 with Ray

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jul/07

got a bit lost route finding on pitch 1 (my lead!)ended up over to the right too much and reversed the traverse of sexual salami to finish at the belay on pitch 2!.Rob led the prize pitch & got a bit of drag at the top,(crux)good lead though,not an easy pitch!.
mike bridges - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/07 with Robert Bridges

Didn't find the route. ended up climbing veg in a gully
Tim W - 27/May/07 with Dylan Tomlinson

with Owen and Arek on a Ellis Brigham's staff trip
mattnuttall - 2nd O/S - 22/May/07 with Alan Holden

My Gravity - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/07 with Simon S

climber sim - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 07/Sep/06

ChrisJD - 2nd - 27/Aug/06 with rc

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/06 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/06

Hidden - 2nd dog - Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/06

First pitch overgrown. Found out afterwards that everyone abs. in!
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 28/May/06 with Jeb

Hidden - AltLd - 06/May/06

IOAN D - Lead O/S - Dec/05 with gareth

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/05

3 Names - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Richard Bartlet

samwelli - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/04 with Steve Hobbs

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/04

James B - 12/Oct/03 with Phil

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/03

John Kettle - AltLd - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/02

Pete Nugent - 14/Jul/01 with Paul Hampson

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/00 with John Marston

Led in one
cem - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/00 with Graham Dolman, Miles Butteriss

Marti999 - AltLd - 2000

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

kev davies - 2000

chris sm - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/99 with Ruth Taylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/99

Hidden - Lead - 1999

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/98

WB - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/98 with Paul

Pete Nugent - 28/May/98

Hidden - Lead - May/98

in the rain
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 17/Jan/98 with Al Willoner

Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 1998

Hidden - Oct/97

five - Lead O/S - May/97 with CH, TW

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

horribly vegetated start, excellent thereafter
nickdonohue - AltLd - 14/Jul/96 with Dave Chapman

Budge - Lead O/S - Mar/96 with Richard Teed

GuyM - 1996

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/95 with Duncan McLay

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - Jul/95 with Henriette Louwerse

babymoac - Lead - 20/May/95 with Grunt

My first HVS, courtesy of my dad :)
Paul Boardman - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/95 with Peter Boardman

belay bunny turned bad - 1995

Big Rik - 1995

alan moore - 1995

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Aug/94

auld al - AltLd O/S - May/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/93

Hidden - 2nd - May/93

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Babika - 2nd O/S - 01/May/92 with Mark Jones

tlr - AltLd - 12/Oct/91 with Cal

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Aug/91

ChrisJD - 2nd - Jul/91

Chris Wright - Lead - 26/May/91

ChrisJD - 2nd - 14/Apr/91

andrew300169 - Lead - 1991 with Pom

Hidden - Lead - 03/Nov/90

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Oct/90

Hidden - Lead - 20/Oct/90

whispering nic - May/90 with Tim PYB

Hidden - Lead - May/90

Bob - 1990

Hidden - 1990

biggianthead - 1990 with HT

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 1990

mark-abz - Lead - 04/May/89 with Phill R

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/88 with steve ward

Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 1988 with Adam Wilde, Krishna

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jun/87

ChrisJD - 2nd - 21/Feb/87

Backinthegame - 2nd - Jul/86 with Gary Hughes

Tim Bateman - 2nd - 05/May/86

michael burrows - 2nd - 27/Apr/86 with brian jones

steve taylor - 2nd - Mar/86 with Nick Smith (BB)

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Sep/85

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Sep/85

tapley - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/85 with Malc Otter

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Aug/85

Babika - 2nd - Jul/85 with Mark Jones

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/85

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Feb/85

Mike Owen - 2nd rpt - 24/Feb/85 with Elaine Owen

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 1985 with SimonGee

wynaptomos - Lead O/S - Jul/84

Hidden - Lead - 1984

Hidden - 1984

stp - Solo O/S - 15/Nov/83

Hammy - AltLd - 11/May/83 with Ian Barker, Penny Excel

Led it in '88
AlanLittle - 2nd - Jan/83 with Sean Myles

Ian Jones - 1983

Hidden - Lead - 1983

AlanLittle - 1983

nigehughes - AltLd - May/82 with Phil James

Brian Wilderspin - AltLd - 15/Aug/81 with Steve Gough

Hidden - Lead - 05/Apr/81

RichardMc - AltLd - 30/Nov/80 with Dave Langmead

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 13/Jul/80 with Ian, John

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/80

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1980

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1980

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1980 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - 1980

ewar woowar - Lead - 1980

rogerskews - AltLd - 01/Oct/79 with Martin Coward

Hidden - Lead - 1978

RichardMc - AltLd - 13/Nov/77 with Tony Williams

Hidden - Lead - 20/Mar/77

mikej - Lead - 02/Jan/77 with Mike Mason

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 1977 with Will Walker

Mike Owen - 16/May/76 with Sandy Doby

Did on MIC training week in group that included Tim Jebson who was running the course. Led many times since then
uphillnow - AltLd - 1976

steve L - 07/Dec/75 with Bob Powell

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 15/Jun/75 with John Young

gwedgwood - 2nd O/S - 1975 with Steve McEvoy

pneame - 1975

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 11/May/74 with Tim Jepson, Dennis Whitely

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 01/Jul/73 with John Midgley

RichardMc - 2nd - 02/Jan/72 with Roger Everett

mikej - Lead - 17/Apr/68 with Humph Thompson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
EyebrowTom, Ropeboy, jimmysdead, Phil Layton, Kevin Robert Jones, jandyd05, Katex, Sebastien Gastaud, Sankey, Ander, davesb, Alan100, gareth r, gilldando, Mike Parker, bsu20c

Total votes cast 136
hard E10 of 47
E10 of 47
easy E11 of 47
hard HVS5 of 47
HVS33 of 47
easy HVS8 of 47
hard VS0 of 47
VS0 of 47
easy VS0 of 47
hard 5b0 of 45
5b0 of 45
easy 5b0 of 45
hard 5a10 of 45
5a31 of 45
easy 5a4 of 45
hard 4c0 of 45
4c0 of 45
easy 4c0 of 45
3 Stars17 of 44
2 Stars27 of 44
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat