Rockfax Description
A superb pitch packed with excellent holds and climbing and with the added benefit of a solid finish. One of Swanage's best HVSs. Move up the wall on great holds to a flake at 10m, before climbing rightwards on steeper ground to gain the fault-line (possible belay). Gain the steep wall on the left above the fault-line and take this to an overhang. Go left and up into a shallow corner with difficulty, before easier bridging and crack climbing finishes this memorable pitch. Low in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. R.J.Crewe, P.Charman 10.2.1974 10/Feb/1974

Ticklists: Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, Orange Spot Swanage, Ultimate HVS ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, SPA Training Minimum Requirement.


ClimberDateStyle
mjeffery 12/Apr 2nd O/S
with Rob
kp64zl ?/Apr 2nd
with Claire
paultaylor 06/Mar Lead rpt
with Matt Roberts
rd20 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Patrick
paddygoodwinlondon 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
petegruf 15/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with hannah f
Hidden 12/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Steve954 02/Aug/15 TR O/S

Lovely route, looks awesome from below but once on it and moving it has great holds all the way along with the need for a few nice moves to move on cleanly.. Loved it.

with Richard, Rich
Hidden 01/Aug/15 2nd
cols1982 09/May/15 2nd O/S

Lovely to second, really fun moves

Adam Hill 01/May/15 2nd

Great, burly climb, loved it.

with Simon
AJM 18/Apr/15 2nd β

There's a load of rock come off the wall below the break, so the wall is quite dirty and there's at least one very precariously poised block that will go pretty soon. Take care out there folks...

Tubs 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

A bit of a shock to the system at the start of the trad season. Still rubbly below the roof due to the recent rockfall.

with Ali B, AJM
AllyBee 18/Apr/15 2nd β

Big loose block in the middle

with Tom L, Andy Morris
trythis 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Lots of loose rock dislodged. The second climbing before us pulled off a large block that luckily only grazed the belayer on adjacent route. They cleared off more loose stuff on their abseil back down but one block remained (wedged on one side) at about mid-height that will probably go at some point. You can avoid pulling on it but take care where your belayer stands until it has gone. Seemed fair at HVS 4c.

Hidden 08/Feb/15 Lead rpt
kp64zl ?/Feb/15 2nd

Excellent route. Very cold day so couldn't feel my fingers. Will return soon when it's warmer.

with Julian M
Russell Lovett ??/2015 AltLd O/S

Climbed early 1980,s. Seconded pitch 1, lead pitch 2

with Tim Dunsby
Bob M 02/Oct/14 Lead

Superb. Intimidating but well protected and not too hard. Enjoyed belaying at the top with the ab rope hanging way out in space to show how steep the route is.

hotfeet 21/Sep/14 Lead

Quality!

Ian MK 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Anna
Anna Maykova 20/Sep/14 2nd
with Ian
jing 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Very nice route. Pumpy. My first proper sea cliff route!

with Vince
garywong 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Alaric 06/Sep/14 Lead rpt

I was quite chuffed about this. Really climbing more at HS/VS standard but I know this route somewhat and wanted to give it a go again. Took my time, placed gear, felt comfortable, didn't get pumped. Felt better than I expected it would. Think it's my kind of climbing.

with Neil
DavidFarrow 06/Sep/14 Lead
Stanners 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Impressive terrain! Rather relentless steepness but mostly good holds and gear. Awkward leaving the break and getting into the corner. Long!

with Andy G
sonic46 21/Aug/14 AltLd

Wow what a climb! Lead 2/3rd and just ran out of energy. Thankfully bailed right to a ledge to set up belay and let Mike create our own finish.

with Mike H
mikehenesy 21/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

Persuaded Sonia to follow her heroic lead on Zo Zo with a trip up QS. With the tide coming in a rapid rock hop along to cormarant was paramount, no rest for the wicked. An east touch for an HVS it could be argued but on the back of a demanding lead, and with a bit of stamina sapping route finding, a couple of wrong turns and half rope miss clipping horendous rope drag it was a route too far. She heroicaly made it past the over hang and then 'bonked'. We finished it off via'ish wall street. But all in all a grand Swanage adventure!

with Sonia
sam_craddock ?/Aug/14 TR
mikehenesy 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic! Easy for the grade as the cc guide says, but a cracking route. Good Gear all the way, solid rock (couple of wobbly blocks) and some cool moves man stepping up from the break. Dive bombed on the final groove as there was a fat fluffy chick at the top. Chick survived, as did me and Dave.

with Dave Garrity
DaveGarrity 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Really good lead by Mike. Still not climbed many HVS routes, but really enjoyed this one.

cem 12/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Peter Murphy
petegruf 12/Jul/14 Lead
Ciderslider 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

AWESOME !!! I've done harder HVS (even at Swanage) but I rate this as a must do - it's got the lot - slightly loose in places, overhanging bits, angry gulls and a brilliant abb in - one of the best pitches of climbing I've done so far :-)

with Ben
rustaldo 20/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Jug apocalypse.

with Alex
Alex Hallam 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Felt like a WW2 fighter pilot on the top out. Seagull took off in my face scaring me in no uncertain fashion. One may have heard a cry of surprise and alarm from below. Definitely not fear. Great route, another top 50.

carl_123 15/May/14 Lead O/S

Plenty of jugs and plenty of gear. Should have taken all long extenders (60cm)

lukerathmell 15/May/14 2nd
with Carl Stubbs
Stuart Johnston 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Ab from near milestone

adam 24 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Nice line, but a bit sandy. There is a sea gull nest half way up.

Mark Lowe 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Beware 3 extremely loose boulders to the left (facing in) of route midway fault line. Keep right of these. Avoid obvious thread runner on lowest one. Also encountered nesting Herring Gull (3 eggs) at 'potential' belay point on fault line. Otherwise - excellent route & situation with good gear.

Luxulyan 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Browne
Alex 74 18/Apr/14 2nd
with Kev
Kirill 30/Mar/14 2nd rpt
with Berta Lopez, Graham Dolman
mattc 09/Dec/13 2nd O/S
Kirill 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
mike.moss 30/Nov/13 2nd O/S
Barry Kerslake 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Nat Kemp
wild_nomad 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Simply sensational from the bottom to the top.

with Paul Day
climbtim 29/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 29/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/13 2nd
Cheese Monkey 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Think I went too far left after the flake, but still, p2 was awesome!

with Mike
Mayaculpa 18/Jul/13 2nd
with Ben
Hidden 30/Apr/13 2nd
leglesslizard 21/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Peter Lovell 21/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
mattparratt 13/Oct/12 AltLd

With Nick Barret

Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd
Stroppy 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Fun but soft for the grade especially as the gear was fairly decent. A little bit loose.

with Sam Lands
mattyork2 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Mad rock. Massive exposure.

with Johnny Richard
Hidden 03/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Liam Ingram 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

One of the best pitches I have ever done.

catrin289 21/Jul/12 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 23/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Chris Jones
Hidden 26/May/12 2nd
paultaylor 21/May/12 Lead O/S
with Stu
Nexonen 13/May/12 Lead O/S

Farily easy climbing but ran out of gear just after the break which made for a memorable finish! Fantastic route.

with Jake
Geoffers 15/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with Lauren, Tim
Headjamm 15/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Tim, Geoffers
LukeyG 24/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 24/Mar/12 2nd
EmilyElouise 23/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 22/Jan/12 2nd dnf

Tom led to the break, then backed off and escaped up Wall Street.

Hidden 22/Jan/12 Lead dnf
Ian JL ??/2012 -
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead
martin one 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Neil Nand
ElBarto 01/Oct/11 2nd dog

Good route, not overly technical but quite strenuous.

Julian Prieto 01/Oct/11 Lead rpt
cliffy 01/Oct/11 2nd
Steve27 24/Sep/11 2nd
with Paul Wilson-Roberts
Hidden 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S
AlexD 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Ceri
Ceridwen 04/Sep/11 2nd rpt
Ali.B 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S
timharrison 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Richy
trevor macalonan 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/May/11 2nd
Jim Slater 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Trevor Wilson
Ali.B ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
steve taylor 24/Oct/10 2nd
with Pete Finklaire
gibsond 16/Oct/10 AltLd dnf

Split into two pitches. Led first pitch. Did not do second pitch.

sammycolon 26/Sep/10 2nd
Kevster 25/Sep/10 Lead

A path at HVS.

Tightsgirl 12/Sep/10 2nd
with DAJ
Monkey_Alan 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
uncontrollable 08/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with Alan B
Hidden 12/Jul/10 -
Geoffers 02/Jul/10 Lead
with Tim
Alaric 11/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Ed
Ed Griffin 11/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Alaric
mick1jones 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead
Graham Westbrook ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic route!

colkurtz ?/Mar/10 2nd
with Adam, Robb
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ybot Htulk ?/Nov/09 Lead

Great route,lead in poor style by me though :) Partner pulled off a huge block about 8m from the top. Hit him in the leg but he ok.

with Richard
Richard Morgan 31/Oct/09 2nd dog

First attempt at HVS - got pumped and peeled off then had to dog it on scond too as arms wrecked. Bit off more than I could chew this time but will be back!

Richard Morgan 31/Oct/09 Lead dnf
Ceridwen 19/Sep/09 Lead
with Mark
Sophie Nunn 20/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Ybot Htulk ?/Aug/09 2nd
with Norman and Sonya
Different Steve 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Clare
Rollo 29/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Mike
Julian Prieto 18/Jun/09 Lead dog

Took too long placing gear and committing to moves, got very pumped and fell off on the last very steep bit (no strength left in arms!). :-( Got back on and finished it.

JDSwain 18/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Julian's first attempt at an HVS, took a superb lob from the move at the very top getting into the corner! Nice climbing on jugs.

with Julian Prieto
mark89 16/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
cliffy 30/May/09 Lead O/S
with Oli Dorrell
Mr Tickle 09/May/09 Lead O/S

great climb on huge holds.

with davenev
davenev 09/May/09 2nd O/S

simply quality

with luke
uncontrollable 02/May/09 Solo O/S

Roped solo - did it in 3 pitches, first belay approx. 5m of the ground, to escape the waves and safe the ab-rope. Second belay at the faultline.

MarkRyder 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Lee
dan gibson 25/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
jamie ward 07/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Fantastic route, Exciting moves on great(soild) holds with excellent pro!! Memorable indeed!!!!

with Toby Dunford
Hidden 16/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/08 Lead O/S
tobydunford 03/May/08 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 03/May/08 2nd β
jchenoweth 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Bob
ebunick 16/Feb/08 2nd O/S

awesome root, worth all the stars its got :D

with Fat Al
mike.moss ??/2008 Lead O/S
Rob84 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S

cracking route - worth every star!

with Sam Strong
SamStrong 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Rob Dyer
Geoffers ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Amy, Tim
clipskipper 07/Jul/07 Lead rpt

Lead this in a single pitch, which all went pretty well apart from dropping a racking krab and three hexes into the sea.

with Kevin Knight
kevinknights 07/Jul/07 2nd dog

Very pumpy - should have taken the rest in the niche!

with Lee
Hidden 28/May/07 2nd O/S
AJ007 28/May/07 Lead
MontyH 02/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Best climb I have done in swanage, clean rock with nice holds and great positions. sunny and warm evening and the my first HVS onsight in Swanage.

with Paul Milton
Danos ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Barry
Chris Sansum 31/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Weilin Wang
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Ed Babs 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Superb climb - huge holds all the way. Make sure you abb down well to the right of the abb post (looking out) so you don't end up dangling in free space over the sea, desperately swinging to get onto the boulder beach!

with Nick Reason
ChrisBrooke 21/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with John Inkpen
clipskipper 19/Mar/06 AltLd rpt

First time on lead on this climb. Seconded first pitch and lead second - fantastic, a lovely route in a great setting.

with Davey Boy
feilx ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Tom K
Dorset ??/2006 2nd
with Neil Weymouth
nige pacer 11/Dec/05 2nd

Rich

cem 10/Dec/05 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 06/Aug/05 Lead O/S

Very good route indeed, big holds and lots of gear, pleasantly mild for the grade. Lie down rest at half height!

with Max
ferdia 30/Oct/04 2nd
with Mike Mavrolean, Andrew Wielochowski
Alaric 24/Oct/04 -

Escaped up this after Black Jack epic.

Alaric 23/Mar/03 Lead O/S

Felt confident after Wall Street, so thought I would try it. First HVS lead - although at bottom of it's grade!

Hidden ?/Nov/00 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Bob M 25/Jun/99 AltLd

Needed two attempts to lead the top pitch.

with Jill Stevens
Adrian Daniels 19/Jun/99 AltLd
with John Parrott, Steve Webster
CMacD ??/1999 -
r0b 11/Sep/97 2nd
with Richard Smith
andyfeds 30/Jul/97 Lead
with Andy C
Budge 11/Apr/97 Lead
with Mike Oates
GuyM ??/1996 -
with duncan saunders
mikej 28/Sep/95 2nd
with Mike Byles
colin milton 26/Aug/95 AltLd
with eric milton
MoWalker3 29/Jun/92 -
Marti999 ??/1992 Lead
kp64zl ?/Jul/91 Lead
with Dave A
steve taylor ?/Aug/89 2nd
with Ket
Moses 15/Aug/87 Lead O/S
Andy Chubb 10/May/87 2nd
with Jeremy Cole
DDDD ??/1987 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 07/Sep/86 TR
with Tim Dunsby
Nigel Coe 20/Jul/86 -
with Brian Wyvill
Chris Terrey ?/Jan/81 2nd
with Mike Morrison
Nigel Coe 22/Apr/79 2nd
with Frank Farrell
turnerk ??/1978 Lead O/S
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 43
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set