Rockfax Description
Intricate and fingery followed by a powerful crux. Start on the right-hand side of the raised ledge.
Pull up to a blob and crimp up left to better holds. Step left to a finger-crack and make very powerful moves through the narrow overlap above to a good ledge. Finish up the easier wall above. A variation start climbs directly to the finger-crack. © Rockfax

FA. Ken Palmer 29.7.87 29/Jul/1987

Ticklists: Torbryan Quarry, West Country Climbs, South coast sport/DWS ticklist.

i_a_coops 27/Jul Lead O/S
with Hugo
Hidden 19/Jul Lead RP
DrGav 15/Jul Lead RP

1st redpoint. Very cool lower sequence.

with Wendy
dbrooks 06/Jul Lead dog
with Dr Dave
5210Hill 30/Jun Lead RP
Ben Russell 21/Jun Lead rpt

Really pleased to get this on my first go of the evening, without the draws in. This time finished the route properly by going out left. Really loved putting in all the effort and time. Progress is sweet! Summer solstice psych!

with Crowd, JackMac
Hidden 20/Jun Lead O/S
KiaranR 06/Jun Lead RP
with Team Rubbish
Ben Russell 03/Jun Lead RP

Nice technical route. Although it's tricky to say where to go after the last jug. I will have to come back and give it a go out left below ledge. Got it on my first redpoint. 6/6/15 the route goes out left after 2nd jug, such a better and rewarding finish. Epic line just ran out of time to redpoint, next session.

with Darren Russell, Jacob Straw
Hidden ?/Jun Lead RP
jonleighton 28/May Lead RP
Adam Matthews 21/May Lead O/S
with KiaranR
Nick Russell 16/May Lead RP

In terms of movement, I enjoyed this more than Thread Flintstone.

JackMac 12/May Lead dnf
with Ed Pask
PeterDawson 25/Mar Lead O/S
Davros the Psyched 07/Mar Lead RP
ferdia 21/Feb Lead RP

First RP attempt after putting clips in. Wasn't sure I had a plan for the first bit really but got through quite tidily and managed to hold the 3 big moves (for me) together afterwards

with Burton, Andy
burto 25/Oct/14 Lead RP
with ferdia, hertha
C coldwell-storry 26/Sep/14 Lead β
with jake Rodgers
Hidden 13/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Ross.Cooper 19/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Tom Sturgeon
R2B 11/Jun/14 Lead RP

Really good bouldery route.

with Luke
Tomar 18/Mar/14 Lead RP

2nd go. Firing on all cylinders today after a disappointing Sunday session at cheddar. You go and figure out

Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead RP
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead RP

A quick after work tick. Thanks Russ for the beta!

with RusseyB
lewisrichardson ??/2014 Lead RP
with dad
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 05/Sep/13 Lead RP
chakrit 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Wendy 31/Aug/13 Lead RP

second go

with Tom Ball
Chappy 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
peteharrison06 ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Same difficulty as Thread Flintstone

Dale Turrell 21/Jun/13 Lead RP

First 7b! 1st redpoint try (after 2 sessions practicing on TR). Sweet summer solstice sendage!

with Dave
Laurence Everitt 08/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 31/May/13 Lead RP
chris j 08/May/13 Lead RP
with Nick Saunders
chris j 06/May/13 Lead dog

Working route - 4 tries, last try one move from easy ground...

Hidden 29/Apr/13 Lead RP
misterb 24/Apr/13 TR


with nick
Dan 85 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Jack
Tom Seccombe 16/Feb/13 Lead RP
Ellis Butler-Barker 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Harder than the route to the left although most of the holds on the harder section were soaking and unusable. Good fun.

guy xavier percival 29/Nov/12 Lead RP
with paul
climbercool 26/Nov/12 Lead dog

im not sure i climbed the correct line, for me getting to the second bolt was very hard and took me a few goes, after the 3rd bolt i moved right instead of left, this was very easy but i think perhaps of route?

Ramon Marin 01/Sep/12 Lead RP
derico 12/Aug/12 Lead RP
with Jenny, Sadact
Rob Pitt 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Nick Saunders
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead dog
Jon_Warner 06/Apr/12 Lead RP

The initial sequence was the hard bit for me. Good route.

with Jenni
Michelle W 06/Apr/12 Lead RP
_m.cox_ 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Onsighted this thinking it was desperate for f6c, somehow I confused it for 'The Wages of Fear' !

Hidden 10/Mar/12 TR dnf
quiffhanger 30/Jul/11 Lead RP
dmaldonado 19/Jun/11 2nd dnf
nblackbeard 19/Jun/11 Lead dog

Almost got it.

Bristoldave 15/Jun/11 Lead RP
with Ben
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/11 Lead rpt
Luke Dawson 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

first 7b os in england

adam cooper*super* 02/Apr/11 Lead RP

Brilliant, 3rd go it went, I think anyway!

Jack_F 02/Apr/11 Lead rpt

A slight change of sequence made it that much more doable

Ben C ??/2011 -
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 27/Sep/10 TR dog
dmaldonado 25/Sep/10 2nd dog
nblackbeard 25/Sep/10 Lead RP
catt 29/Aug/10 Lead RP

Had a go putting the first few clips in, and sussing the moves after a go last year. Went quickly after that. Nice!

with Hardin
eugeneth 16/Aug/10 Lead RP

I had not done ths when I moved from Devon to North Wales. First trip back here since and got it second go today. Schweeeeet!

Hidden 21/Jun/10 TR dog
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead dog
alaan 05/May/10 Lead rpt

2nd go. Good climbing!

alaan 28/Apr/10 Lead dog

Wrong handed on first crux, dogged to the top.

Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2010 -
Garrouli ??/2010 Lead RP
with Mark, Pete
w.pettet-smith 03/Oct/09 Lead RP

1st redpoint.good technical moves but pleasently simple to read.satisfying reach for the ledge- evidence of people headin right then coming back in- direct is better.second clip tricky, clipped it at belly button height.

with darren, jo
langar27 21/Sep/09 TR dog
dmoir 21/Sep/09 Lead RP
with Canadian James
Jeff25 31/Jul/09 Lead O/S

bit damp. Not expected given its July. v good though and only really 7m or so in length

with Anwen
nblackbeard 24/Jun/09 Lead dog

Think we went too far left before the ledge.

with Tom Grant
JeromeT ?/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Justin T 25/Oct/08 Lead RP

Awesome route!

with Wifey
Hidden 21/Oct/08 TR dog
eddieclimb 13/Sep/08 Lead RP

1st rp, soooooooo close on the OS

with Rebecca Edwards
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Reachy and cruxy.

with Dave Ferguson
bigie bob 19/Jul/08 Lead RP
dannyboy83 01/Jun/08 Lead β
Hidden 22/May/08 TR RP
Hidden 11/May/08 Lead RP
Marti999 26/Feb/08 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2006 Lead RP
westyb3 ??/2003 Lead RP
with Andy long
CraigMac1 ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
FATBOYFAT ??/1994 Lead RP
keefe 30/Aug/92 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 30/Aug/92 -
with keefe
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, stp, Hidden, Dave Searle
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Votes cast 36
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Not Set