UKC Logbook - 'The Smile'

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Cornwall > Lower Sharpnose Point >

The Smile

E1 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Mustard

Out of the Blue >>

35m. A fabulous route that follows the sweeping, wide break across the face of the fin and is topped off by a well-positioned thin crack. Start at a vague line of holds that lead up to the break. 42m. Climb up the wall to the left-slanting break. Follow the break all the way to a broken niche and climb up the wall above via a thin crack to the top. © ROCKFAX
A classic North Coast E1 which gives strenuous climbing along the obvious diagonal line. Take care with rope work and the increasingly loose block on the top wall.
FA. Pat Littlejohn 3.4.71 03/Apr/1971

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs.

Photo: The Smile lives up to its name! © quadmyre
View all 31 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 230 logbooks, and on 37 wishlists.

Finally managed this clean with no rests, after I finished the Smirk. Must be getting fitter.
Joel Perkin - 2nd O/S - 18/May/13

Hidden - Lead - 18/May/13

alexjz - 2nd rpt - 05/May/13 with Jon Ayrton

Had to sit on the rope to wiggle out a walked cam, cool route.
Ed morris - 2nd - 28/Apr/13 with Colin

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with t moore

Hidden - 2nd dog - 27/Apr/13

Brilliant weather, first bit of outdoor climbing of the year.
alexjz - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with John Zalewski

mikelawrence aka jonnienomates - Lead - 13/Apr/13 with Bobbee

Cold fingers and a low beach made the start particularly difficult today.
Mark Kemball - Lead - 03/Mar/13 with Lee Bartrop

kim.mulji - Lead dnf - 21/Oct/12 with Ian Cramman

Mark Kemball - Lead - 14/Oct/12 with Nic Dill

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/12

Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Ben Wolstenholme, Rob Adie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/12

Wet start, bit crusty through the traverse. Worst of the three we did today. Probably not helped by the rain or decision to boulder hop for an hour to get here.
loundsy - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with loundsy

Excellent, surprisingly steep on the upper wall, well worth 3 stars.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Becky E

Enjoyed this.
Becky E - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Graeme Hammond

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/12

rustaldo - 2nd rpt - 29/Jul/12 with Lewis

Lewis Stewart - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/12

burto - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/12 with tom powell, jerome

Jenny Crook - Lead - 24/Jul/12 with Rob Patchett

Excellent. The traverse is steady but a couple of moves up from the end of it seemed quite stiff.
crispycodd - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Stephen Venables

Hidden - Lead β - 15/Jul/12

Awesome. Super jugginess of the best kind. One move that is about 5a, the rest is about 4c?
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/12 with Jon Stewart

The fall was due to me braking off one of the best holds on the route. Sorry
Hinchrn - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/12 with Matt Rust

Quite a steady and soft E1. Lots of gear and holds. Conditions were damp which made things a little tricky early on.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/12 with Tom Hinch

dohart - 2nd - 25/Jun/12 with stu bradbury

Spearos - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/12 with Mike

Well protected, JUG Fest until last section. Be very careful at the niche, BIG loose block. Big block also came off ha,lf way along the break.
El3ctroFuzz - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/12 with George Coiley

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/May/12

Climbed much better than the last time. Flew up, smoothly. Loved it!
Joel Perkin - 2nd O/S - 13/May/12 with Simon Hammond

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Cusco

quality route
misterb - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with cherry, justin

Ceridwen - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Nexonen - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12 with Phil, Ceri

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/May/12

Second time with Joel Perkin. Only 3 rests this time. Physically at my limit but mentally fine. Hoping for less rests next time.
sh@budehaven.cornwall.sch.uk - Lead dog - May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Apr/12

Extremely strenuous climbing. Quality climbing throughout, and bomber protection. Really good quality rock aswell.
Joel Perkin - 2nd dog - 01/Apr/12

Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Hertha

tom.e - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Claire

adie84 - 2012

Hidden - Lead - 13/Nov/11

mark schramm - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

nroyal - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/11

chris ebbutt - Lead - 15/Oct/11 with Nick

Amazing climb!
Lyndsay Superclimber - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Mark S

Jim Malo - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/11 with Stu

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/11 with Ed Booth

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/11

GuyM - Lead O/S - Sep/11 with will

soph - 2nd - Sep/11 with Helena Robinson

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 31/Aug/11 with Gala

mark20 - Lead rpt - 30/Aug/11

CRiddiford - 2nd rpt - 30/Aug/11 with Mark

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 30/Aug/11 with michael porter

JRae - Lead - 29/Aug/11 with M Watson

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/11

waited ages, lovely to be back and able to jump on this.
CRiddiford - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Mark

mad dash out of exeter and up the a30, topped out as the sun was just licking the horizon. splendid.
w.pettet-smith - Lead - 23/Aug/11 with jon

wi11 - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/11 with Rob G

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Emma Hawkins

Fran S8 - 2nd - 08/Aug/11 with john nightingale

annetweddell - Lead - 02/Aug/11 with Jeff

tatz45 - Lead O/S - Aug/11 with Katy Vose

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

quiffhanger - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/11

Total jug fest with a couple of tricky moves at the end of a traverse. Super well protected as well. Fantastic
dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/11 with Rob Tyler, Pete Abernethy

tyler836 - 2nd dog - 29/Jun/11 with Peter Abernethy, David Brigham

So good! Probs easier if you can jam.
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/11 with Mike

No pump, but some scary wobbly blocks on the crux
Jon_Warner - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Tom

tskelhon - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/11

jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 27/May/11 with Carol

trampingcarol - 2nd - 27/May/11 with Jonnie Williams

Ross Barnes - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Mal, Neil A

Neil Adams - 2nd O/S - 22/May/11 with mal_meech, Ross B

Hidden - 2nd β - 22/May/11

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - May/11 with Rosea

Rosea Day - 2nd β - May/11

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11

liamoloughlin - 2nd - 24/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Puuuuuuumpy...
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with crossdressingrodney

Arm failure. Would make 2 great HVS pitches, but strung together it was a little too much for my poor arms all in one go.
crossdressingrodney - Lead dog - 23/Apr/11 with victim of mathematics

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11

Andrew1 - 2nd - 22/Apr/11 with Hulda

Hidden - Lead - 18/Apr/11

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11

landskip - Lead - Apr/11 with Tall Paul

landskip - 2nd - Apr/11 with Tall Paul

JeromeT - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with Matt L

Tom Seccombe - Lead rpt - 08/Jan/11 with tim exley

tim exley - 2nd O/S - 08/Jan/11 with Tom Secombe

Rory Shaw - 2011

mwatson - 2011

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10

Really enjoyed this. Big holds nice traversing and didn't have to worry about getting pumped. Finally got to use some of the traversing skills I endlessly 'practise' at the wall.
monsteratt - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Andrew Abraham

Pumped out of my tiny mind, rested then fell on the crux like a tool.
Southern Man - Lead dnf - 06/Oct/10 with rich mayfield

Seconded Rich after I cocked it up.
Southern Man - 2nd - 06/Oct/10 with rich mayfield

chris j - 2nd - 25/Sep/10 with Doug

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 15/Sep/10

bring a double set of cams up to camalot 3, including small ones!
david morse - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/10 with chris todd

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Floris

arandall - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/10 with remus knowles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/10

Tom Seccombe - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Stu Bradbury

feilx - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/10 with Heather

Jugs and footholds everywhere, only about 2 tricky moves at the end. Soft for the grade we thought. Good though.
Si dH - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10

Very good except for the big loose blocks at the end of the break. Improving holds??
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/10

Ran out of energy and cams first try, so lowered off then managed it second attempt. Top section felt steep and holds are not as good as the guidebook suggests... Found it really tough, hardest thing I've led in ages, so very happy to get it!
BeccaSnowden - Lead RP - 05/Aug/10 with Tom

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Jul/10

Pbclimbing.com - 31/Jul/10 with henry castle

Hidden - 28/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/10

Great route, VS traverse with a steep HVS finish. Lots of gear.
philhilo - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with misha

Great line striking across the cliff. Comfortable lead from Phil, including taking photos from half way along the traverse. The final vertical section really steps up a gear or two for a few moves but still fairly easy for E1.
Misha - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Phil

Led after Gary had a go. Gary put the runners in for the first half for me so pretty easy on the arms.
Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 02/May/10 with Gary Burgess

tom169 - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Pawel

raku - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Tom Mulier

Reeges - 2nd β - 23/Jan/10 with Nick Saunders

Hidden - Lead dog - 23/Jan/10

Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - 2010 with Clement Attwood

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Mike Hawkins

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/Sep/09

Wet
Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/09

climbingpixie - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Andy Hobson

dave657 - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with paul b and mike

irish paul - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Dave R + Mike D

Pumpy, got scared.
Chris_barr - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/09 with Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/09

Dave Rumney - Lead - 12/Jul/09 with Tanya Milner

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/09

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with Hamish Rowe

Mike W - Lead O/S - May/09

Made me smile :)
sebrider - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/09 with Eugene

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/09

sara n - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/08 with Nev

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/08

AJH - 2nd dog - 19/Jul/08 with Crispin

Classic E1, quite full value for the grade with bold start, pumpy traverse and tricky steep section past some very loose blocks....grat fun though!
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/08 with Emily

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/08

eley1 - Lead - 01/Apr/08 with graham

Matt Vigg - 2008

andrea83 - 2nd - 2008 with Vojta

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/07

Man I shat my pants on this! Totally ballsed up the start, got massively pumped and had to downclimb and before starting again. Head wasn't really in it any more and ended up resting three times during the route. Shame cos it was great!
mrtom - Lead dog - 26/Aug/07 with Roger HSmith

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Aug/07

a real must, made my ass twitch like a rabbit's nose and that was from belaying.
riddle - 2nd - Aug/07 with Tom Elliot

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/07 with Dave Moir

Marti999 - 2nd - 07/Jun/07 with Rich White

Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/07 with Nick Ingram

Steep crux once you're nicely pumped. Bring lots of extenders and mid-cams. Don't be surprised by the wobbly hold near the end.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/07 with Si

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Apr/07

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/07

During intermitedly wild weather- pumpy!
alaan - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/07 with Aly

Rob Kennard - 2007

ecowaller - 2007

Hidden - 2nd - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - Lead RP - Nov/06

Hidden - Lead - 13/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/06

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Jul/06

quality climbing good intro too the crag. easier than it looks. is this the best crag in the world.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/06 with pat mcbride

chris j - 2nd rpt - 12/Jul/06 with Ben Bradford

feilx - 2nd - 17/Jun/06 with Crazy Tom

amazing first climb of the day. really good when you suddenly go up and it gets steep.
beanfingers - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/06 with felix

chris j - Lead rpt - 14/Jun/06 with Ben Bradford

Baking hot, sweaty, mouth felt like a desert at the end...
chris j - Lead dog - 09/Jun/06 with Ben Bradford

jimdanson - 2nd O/S - 28/May/06 with Mike Adams

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 12/May/06 with Ady Short

cem - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/06 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Feb/06

Bern - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 2006

Foam sea
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/05 with Sinbad