Rock Dancer*** E1 5b
[Pete seeking out that elusive protection, 3 kb]46m.

Rockfax Description
An excellent, sustained wall-pitch with good but spaced protection. It is at the upper end of the E1 grade. Start 6m left of the house-sized boulder and just right of a narrow corner above the low overhang.
Make some hard moves through the low overhang to reach the diagonal break. Step left and climb the wall directly to the right end of a short left-slanting hand-ledge. Move up onto it and from its left end move up the wall past wires to a horizontal finger-crack. Finish direct to a flake belay and scramble off left. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A direct line up the slab right of Saxon with tricky protection. Start on a large boulder left of the Saxon start and pull strenuously throught the overhang into the break at 4m (it is possible to protect this section after the first move is made). Continue direct for 10-15m before pulling up to and onto the obvious sloping ledge. Move to the left end of this and finish direct.


R Edwards, M Edwards 17/Apr/1979

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Pete seeking out that elusive protection © rockferret
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 197 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

Good route, scary start!
jonleighton - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/15

USE MORE CAMS
supersouthward - 02/Aug/15 with Selen Thyssen

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Aug/15

One of the best routes I've climbed. Pure class
Lewis Stewart - 02/Aug/15 with Claire

Fantastic route. I found the gear placements a lot harder than saxon
Wendy - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/15 with Tom Ball

tom s g - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/15 with Fred Graham

Jack Porteous - Lead dog - 28/Jul/15

Excellent route, a long held ambition. Did start of Saxon just to right to avoid greasy boulder problem. Steady climbing to traverse crack tho gear tricky to find, then went too far left and nearly fell off doing really hard mantle to get stood up! Exciting.
Alison Cairns - Lead rpt - 07/Jul/15 with Andy

Nice introduction to cornwall
shaunhumphreys - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/15 with benkelsey

No hard moves, good gear, felt soft.
benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/15 with Shaun Humphreys

Brilliant route. The bouldery start wasn't as hard as it looked. Exciting mantelshelf crux.
Matt77 - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/15 with Ryan Osborne

RyanOsborne - 05/Jul/15 with Matt Beals

When confused on route finding trend left. Lovely route and position on sunny day
Robin Brooke - Lead - Jul/15 with Paula Ryan

Pryan - 2nd - Jul/15 with Robin Brooke

tim.fairhall - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/15 with Tommy

saxdonkey - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/15 with tim.fairhall

Harder than thane, accidentally fot traversed the hand traverse
Wendy Watthews - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/15 with Beni

Awesome route on an awesome wall. Protection is spaced but never really run out,
JoeCoxson - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/15 with Luke Gorman

Rachel Somerville - 2nd - 28/May/15 with Cal

bullwinkle - 2nd O/S - 26/May/15 with Amanda, Alan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/15

Lovely as always, but seem to go about the main crux differently each time. Protection is tricky, but generally there, and the holds keep coming.
Robin Woodward - Lead rpt - 17/May/15

A top pitch
Jelly Mould Surfer - 2nd O/S - 13/May/15

mikeyjbs - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/15

Hidden - 2015

Great route, never too hard but with interesting climbing all the way to the top
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/14 with Nick Eaton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/14

Plenty of gear.
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/14 with Jon Didymus

Jon Didymus - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/14 with Rich

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/14

tash - 2nd - 27/Jul/14 with ali k

mountaingoatgirl - 2nd - 27/Jul/14 with John C, Steve C

Alex Mason - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Jemma Powell

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jul/14

Incredible! My best 5b climbing by a long way, a dance not a battle :p
oddtoast - 2nd - 08/Jul/14 with Gav

gowla - Lead rpt - 01/Jul/14 with Andy, Alex Burns

Pure pleasure.
hotfeet - Lead - 12/Jun/14

Jenny Dart - 2nd - Jun/14

Robin Woodward - Lead rpt - Jun/14

Chris Reid - Lead - 28/May/14 with Lissy Manners

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/May/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/May/14

mike lawrence? - 2nd - 26/May/14 with FatRob

Wow.... Just wow.
HIGHTOWER - Lead O/S - 15/May/14 with Jocky

Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 07/May/14 with Sophie

Sophie Nunn - 2nd O/S - 07/May/14 with Richard

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/14

Justin T - 2nd - 19/Apr/14 with Crispin

Hidden - Lead - 19/Apr/14

twem - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Nicholas Eaton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/13

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Oct/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/13

Fantastic climb!
Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/13

mutt - Lead β - 12/Aug/13

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 08/Aug/13 with David

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Dan Lane

What delightful climbing. Never too hard, always enjoyable and constantly thought-provoking. I can imagine it's a bit exciting on the sharp end though.
Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Tom Livingstone

Mark Kemball - Lead - 31/Jul/13 with Astrid Saxby, Solly Kemball Dorey

Amazing route!
Robin Woodward - Lead - Jul/13

Alex the Alex - 2nd - Jul/13

balancy and nice on shunt
rurp - TR O/S - 29/May/13

Pleasant. Thin gear
morganator - Lead - 17/May/13 with International Meet Guest

drysori - 2nd - 17/May/13 with Davor

Simon Alden - Lead O/S - 16/May/13 with Craig Harwood

Hidden - TR - 04/May/13

Nick Wallis - 2nd - May/13 with BMC international meet

I've been wanting to lead this since seconding the route with nick. Lived up to all my expectations.
Dilwat - Lead rpt - 02/Apr/13 with dready

wow so good!
dready - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/13 with dillwat

Hidden - Apr/13

David led
rd20 - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/13 with Fiona

Ended up mantling onto the ledge. Scary and not easy, or the easiest way of doing it. Standard E1 if you do it correctly I reckon. Fairly steady with loads of gear and no hands rests.
dprctr - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/13 with Fiona McFarlane, Robert Dufton

Fiona McFarlane - 2nd O/S - Mar/13 with Dave proctor, Robert Dufton

cymjt - 2013

burto - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/12 with hertha

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/12

Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Rob Adie

s.c.white - 08/Sep/12 with stuart inchely

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Sep/12

Nick Wallis - 2nd - Sep/12 with Martin Cooper

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/12

gowla - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/12 with Paddy Mitton, Alex Burns

The_Boy_ODwyer - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Ian Lau

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12

paddymitton - 2nd - Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jul/12

Jen Crook - 2nd - 27/Jul/12 with Rob Patchett

Couldn't commit to the crux and then it started to rain so backed off.
Jim Slater - Lead dnf - 01/Jul/12 with Chris Hindley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jun/12

Very good, difficult to know exactly where it goes though. Top end e1.
James Oswald - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/12 with Jon Stewart

Awesome route. Tricky spaced gear but the holds keep on coming. Loved it
jezb1 - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/12

Slipped off the tricky starting moves first time, clean ground up at second attempt. A fantastic route, some great sequences and a beautiful setting.
The Ivanator - 2nd RP - 06/Jun/12 with Jez

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Start seemed fairly steady at the start then some tricky moves to get up to a hand rail.
monsteratt - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12 with Chris Goddard

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Sarah

cem - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/12 with Graham Dolman

Dave Rumney - Lead - 31/Mar/12 with Tanya Milner

adie84 - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

andybenham - 2nd rpt - 26/Nov/11 with paul abram

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/11

Fantastic route enjoyed it more than Saxon.
domskezz - Lead - 22/Sep/11 with Jamma

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11

Might have strayed off route slightly leftwards... Amazing rock and brilliant climbing though. Gear is iffy and sparse but the holds are surprisingly better than it appears from below.
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/11 with Graham Charman

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/11 with Marti

Lovely tricky moves
Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Phil, Paul

philmcf - 2nd O/S - Jul/11

JulesV - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/11

Graham Atkins - 2nd - 25/Jun/11

finished up In the gallery.
Dizz - 2nd - 22/Jun/11 with Richard S

Em66 - AltLd - 03/Jun/11 with Mat

Hidden - Lead - Jun/11

Pippa - Lead O/S - 30/May/11 with Jon

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/11

Nick Wallis - Lead - May/11 with Laura

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Apr/11

cem - 2nd rpt - 28/Apr/11 with Charles Mason, Paul Bolton

Superfantastic. The start was easier than expected, but getting onto the juggy ledge was exciting!
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11 with crossdressingrodney

Outstanding.
crossdressingrodney - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/11 with victim of mathematics

Mike managed to get a surprising amount of good protection on this route (including a cam dropped by a party that had just climbed Saxon). The superb 1-finger pull to get established on the ledge 2/3 of the way up felt like the crux.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - 2nd - 25/Apr/11 with Mike Tempest

mtempest - Lead - 25/Apr/11 with Steve Waters, Mynydd

jchenoweth - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Charlie Jeynes

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2011

Hidden - 2011

very ...ahem ...memorable
andybenham - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with jeremy dugan

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/10

david morse - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/10 with chris todd

Hidden - Lead - 02/Sep/10

colkurtz - 2nd - 02/Sep/10 with Robb

Nel Tindale - 2nd dog - 28/Aug/10 with Percy

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 16/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10

Dave Lacey - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/10 with jak.kelly

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10

gripped01 - Lead - Aug/10 with Nel Tindale

Dilwat - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Nick

fantastic face climbing
nickdonohue - Lead - Jul/10 with Ian Riddell

Different Steve - Lead rpt - 12/May/10 with Luis Silva

Excellent route with delicate face climbing and some hidden holds. I only managed to place about six pieces of protection for the whole pitch (offset nuts and small cams). The final belay on the preplaced rope (that we used for the abseil)
verticon - Lead O/S - 12/May/10 with Craig Harwood

Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead - 07/May/10 with Becky McGovern

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Clare

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

great climb ,steep for a slab but positive holds throughout ,soft for e1
misterb - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/09 with simon

jon thompson27 - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with simon mayell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09

Fantastic route. Pete did an excellent job of protecting it.
rockferret - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Pete

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/09

climber130887 - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/09 with luke hunt

datoon - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with S

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08

Not as direct as the topo in Littlejohn's SW guide suggests, altho I might have wandered a bit in search for gear. Some routefinding required all the same.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/08 with Simon Denison

KRB - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/07 with Martin Bridges

chrissloan84 - 2nd - 07/Apr/07 with AJM

Tim Sparrow - Lead - Apr/07 with Geoff Thomas

Rob Kennard - 2007

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 17/Apr/06 with Steve Gray

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/04

Urgles - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Laura

cem - 2nd rpt - 11/Apr/04 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/03

cem - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/03 with Sally Dipple

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/03

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Mar/03

andy_pemberton - Lead - 2003

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/02 with Roy Thomas

Tim M - 2nd O/S - 2000

bullybones - 2000

A great route. The only soft touch in Cornwall?
alan moore - 2000

Roget - Solo O/S - 15/Aug/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/98

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/97

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 05/Jul/95 with Emmy McCowen

Andy Say - Solo O/S - 02/Jun/94

3 Names - Lead O/S - 1994 with Brian Parker

Hidden - Lead - 1994

whispering nic - Lead O/S - Aug/91 with Ali W

rogerskews - 30/May/91 with Bryn Roberts

Hidden - Lead - 06/Sep/90

Hidden - 1988

Neil R - 2nd - 24/May/87 with Ian

Gregory - Lead - 1984 with caroline lee

Chris Craggs - 1980

Hidden - 1978

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
stephen ashworth, quiffhanger, hutchay, Motown, iksander, johnpr, James Oswald, climbingpixie, Master Chief, Ian Jones, erinbastian, Alan100, Ropeboy

Voting
Total votes cast 159
hard E20 of 54
E21 of 54
easy E20 of 54
hard E118 of 54
E132 of 54
easy E13 of 54
hard HVS0 of 54
HVS0 of 54
easy HVS0 of 54
hard 5c0 of 54
5c0 of 54
easy 5c0 of 54
hard 5b4 of 54
5b45 of 54
easy 5b5 of 54
hard 5a0 of 54
5a0 of 54
easy 5a0 of 54
3 Stars38 of 51
2 Stars13 of 51
1 Star0 of 51
0 Stars0 of 51
Bag of .....0 of 51
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP
Dogged
DNF