Rockfax Description
An excellent, sustained wall-pitch with good but spaced protection. It is at the upper end of the E1 grade. Start 6m left of the house-sized boulder and just right of a narrow corner above the low overhang.
Make some hard moves through the low overhang to reach the diagonal break. Step left and climb the wall directly to the right end of a short left-slanting hand-ledge. Move up onto it and from its left end move up the wall past wires to a horizontal finger-crack. Finish direct to a flake belay and scramble off left. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A direct line up the slab right of Saxon with tricky protection. Start on a large boulder left of the Saxon start and pull strenuously throught the overhang into the break at 4m (it is possible to protect this section after the first move is made). Continue direct for 10-15m before pulling up to and onto the obvious sloping ledge. Move to the left end of this and finish direct.

R Edwards, M Edwards 17/Apr/1979

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

dbrooks 15/May Lead O/S

one of the best E1s in Cornwall?

with gidmord
gidmord 15/May 2nd O/S
with dbrooks
AmyAmy 12/Apr 2nd
islandlynx 12/Apr Lead O/S

Very nice route. managed to get a wee nut in to protect the first move. Seems i did the crux slightly differently by hand traversing and using a heel-hook instead of a mantle. Missed the last 2 meters by going too far left.

with Amy
druss 25/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Thin climbing with spaced protection. Mantel is unnerving for the leader as quite far above gear. Peter took a 6m fall prior to the mantel so kudos for pushing through.

poeter210 25/Oct/15 Lead dog

stupid foot slip on a badly chosen hold, very glad not to fall off the crux which was a good deal higher above the gear!

Lumbering Oaf 15/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Great climb. Bouldery start, steady climbing throughout. Nice crux higher up. Good pro all the way.

manbat 15/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Great route!

Hidden 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Lewis Stewart 03/Oct/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 08/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/15 2nd
jonleighton 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Good route, scary start!

supersouthward 02/Aug/15 -


with Selen Thyssen
Hidden 02/Aug/15 2nd
Lewis Stewart 02/Aug/15 -

One of the best routes I've climbed. Pure class

with Claire
Wendy 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Fantastic route. I found the gear placements a lot harder than saxon

with Tom Ball
tom s g 28/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Fred Graham
Jack Porteous 28/Jul/15 Lead dog
Alison Cairns 07/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Excellent route, a long held ambition. Did start of Saxon just to right to avoid greasy boulder problem. Steady climbing to traverse crack tho gear tricky to find, then went too far left and nearly fell off doing really hard mantle to get stood up! Exciting.

with Andy
shaunhumphreys 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Nice introduction to cornwall

benkelsey 05/Jul/15 2nd O/S

No hard moves, good gear, felt soft.

with Shaun Humphreys
Matt77 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. The bouldery start wasn't as hard as it looked. Exciting mantelshelf crux.

RyanOsborne 05/Jul/15 -
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead
Paula Ryan ?/Jul/15 2nd
tim.fairhall 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Tommy
saxdonkey 30/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Wendy Watthews 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Harder than thane, accidentally fot traversed the hand traverse

with Beni
JoeCoxson 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Awesome route on an awesome wall. Protection is spaced but never really run out,

lukegorman 20/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Rachel S 28/May/15 2nd
with Cal
bullwinkle 26/May/15 2nd O/S
with Amanda, Alan
Mike_Hayes 20/May/15 Lead O/S
with dan parkes
Robin Woodward 17/May/15 Lead rpt

Lovely as always, but seem to go about the main crux differently each time. Protection is tricky, but generally there, and the holds keep coming.

Jelly Mould Surfer 13/May/15 2nd O/S

A top pitch

Si ?/May/15 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant. Big swell

with Becs
mikeyjbs 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
alastairbegley 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Great route, never too hard but with interesting climbing all the way to the top

with Nick Eaton
Hidden 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S
richiebongo 31/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Plenty of gear.

with Jon Didymus
Didymus 30/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Rich
Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
tash 27/Jul/14 2nd
with ali k
mountaingoatgirl 27/Jul/14 2nd
with John C, Steve C
Alex Mason 21/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Jemma Powell
Hidden 08/Jul/14 Lead
oddtoast 08/Jul/14 2nd

Incredible! My best 5b climbing by a long way, a dance not a battle :p

with Gav
gowla 01/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Andy, Alex Burns
hotfeet 12/Jun/14 Lead

Pure pleasure.

Jenny Dart ?/Jun/14 2nd
Robin Woodward ?/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Chris Reid 28/May/14 Lead
Hidden 28/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd O/S
mike lawrence? 26/May/14 2nd
with FatRob
HIGHTOWER 15/May/14 Lead O/S

Wow.... Just wow.

with Jocky
Luxulyan 07/May/14 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 07/May/14 2nd O/S
with Richard
Hidden 23/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Justin T 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Crispin
Nevil 19/Apr/14 Lead
with Martin
Hidden ?/Mar/14 2nd O/S
twem 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Nicholas Eaton
Hidden 04/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 27/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Graham Westbrook 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb!

mutt 12/Aug/13 Lead β
Hidden 08/Aug/13 Lead
David Sherratt 08/Aug/13 2nd
Tom Livingstone 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S

What delightful climbing. Never too hard, always enjoyable and constantly thought-provoking. I can imagine it's a bit exciting on the sharp end though.

Mark Kemball 31/Jul/13 Lead
with Astrid Saxby, Solly Kemball Dorey
Robin Woodward ?/Jul/13 Lead

Amazing route!

Alex the Alex ?/Jul/13 2nd
rurp 29/May/13 TR O/S

balancy and nice on shunt

morganator 17/May/13 Lead

Pleasant. Thin gear

with International Meet Guest
drysori 17/May/13 2nd
with Davor
Simon Alden 16/May/13 Lead O/S
with Craig Harwood
Hidden 04/May/13 TR
Nick Wallis ?/May/13 2nd
with BMC international meet
Dilwat 02/Apr/13 Lead rpt

I've been wanting to lead this since seconding the route with nick. Lived up to all my expectations.

with dready
dready 02/Apr/13 2nd O/S

wow so good!

with dillwat
rd20 31/Mar/13 2nd O/S

David led

with Fiona
dprctr 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Ended up mantling onto the ledge. Scary and not easy, or the easiest way of doing it. Standard E1 if you do it correctly I reckon. Fairly steady with loads of gear and no hands rests.

with Fiona McFarlane, Robert Dufton
Fiona McFarlane ?/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Dave proctor, Robert Dufton
cymjt ??/2013 -
burto 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
Hidden 14/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Rob84 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Rob Adie
s.c.white 08/Sep/12 -
stuart34 08/Sep/12 2nd
Nick Wallis ?/Sep/12 2nd
with Martin Cooper
Hidden 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S
gowla 11/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Paddy Mitton, Alex Burns
The_Boy_ODwyer 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ian Lau
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
paddymitton ?/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd
Jen Crook 27/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/12 Lead
Jim Slater 01/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Couldn't commit to the crux and then it started to rain so backed off.

Hidden 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/12 2nd
James Oswald 19/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Very good, difficult to know exactly where it goes though. Top end e1.

jezb1 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Awesome route. Tricky spaced gear but the holds keep on coming. Loved it

The Ivanator 06/Jun/12 2nd RP

Slipped off the tricky starting moves first time, clean ground up at second attempt. A fantastic route, some great sequences and a beautiful setting.

with Jez
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
monsteratt 06/May/12 2nd O/S

Start seemed fairly steady at the start then some tricky moves to get up to a hand rail.

with Chris Goddard
greenclimb 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah
cem 06/Apr/12 Lead rpt

Way superior to the over-hyped Saxon.

Dave Rumney 31/Mar/12 Lead
with Tanya Milner
adie84 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
andybenham 26/Nov/11 2nd rpt
conorjclarke 23/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Rhona Barr
domskezz 22/Sep/11 Lead

Fantastic route enjoyed it more than Saxon.

with Jamma
Hidden 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Might have strayed off route slightly leftwards... Amazing rock and brilliant climbing though. Gear is iffy and sparse but the holds are surprisingly better than it appears from below.

Marti999 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Graham C 10/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Marti
Cheese Monkey 28/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Lovely tricky moves

with Phil, Paul
philmcf ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Bob Peters ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Dad
JulesV 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Graham Atkins 25/Jun/11 2nd
Dizz 22/Jun/11 2nd

finished up In the gallery.

with Richard S
Em66 03/Jun/11 AltLd
with Mat
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead
Pippa 30/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jon
Nick Wallis ?/May/11 Lead
with Laura
Hidden 28/Apr/11 2nd
cem 28/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Charles Mason, Paul Bolton
victim of mathematics 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Superfantastic. The start was easier than expected, but getting onto the juggy ledge was exciting!

crossdressingrodney 26/Apr/11 2nd O/S


Steve Waters, Mynydd 25/Apr/11 2nd

Mike managed to get a surprising amount of good protection on this route (including a cam dropped by a party that had just climbed Saxon). The superb 1-finger pull to get established on the ledge 2/3 of the way up felt like the crux.

mtempest 25/Apr/11 Lead
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
jchenoweth 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Charlie Jeynes
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2011 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
andybenham 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

very ...ahem ...memorable

Hidden 20/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 20/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/10 2nd O/S
david morse 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with chris todd
Hidden 02/Sep/10 Lead
colkurtz 02/Sep/10 2nd
with Robb
Nel Tindale 28/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Percy
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Lead
jak.kelly 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Dave Lacey 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
gripped01 ?/Aug/10 Lead
with Nel Tindale
Dilwat 11/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Nick
nickdonohue ?/Jul/10 Lead

fantastic face climbing

Different Steve 12/May/10 Lead rpt
with Luis Silva
verticon 12/May/10 Lead O/S

Excellent route with delicate face climbing and some hidden holds. I only managed to place about six pieces of protection for the whole pitch (offset nuts and small cams). The final belay on the preplaced rope (that we used for the abseil)

with Craig Harwood
Dave Turnbull, BMC 07/May/10 Lead
with Becky McGovern
bpmclimb 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Clare
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
misterb 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S

great climb ,steep for a slab but positive holds throughout ,soft for e1

with simon
jon thompson27 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with simon mayell
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
rockferret 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Fantastic route. Pete did an excellent job of protecting it.

with Pete
Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 02/Jul/09 -
with SF
climber130887 15/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with luke hunt
datoon 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with S
centurion05 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 18/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Not as direct as the topo in Littlejohn's SW guide suggests, altho I might have wandered a bit in search for gear. Some routefinding required all the same.

with Simon Denison
KRB 09/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Martin Bridges
chrissloan84 07/Apr/07 2nd
with AJM
Tim Sparrow ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Geoff Thomas
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Different Steve 17/Apr/06 2nd rpt
with Steve Gray
pezzerrr 22/Sep/04 Lead O/S
The Reaper 28/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Urgles ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Laura
cem 11/Apr/04 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/Aug/03 Lead O/S
cem 19/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Sally Dipple
Hidden ?/Jun/03 2nd O/S
Samuel P 02/Mar/03 2nd
with Luke
andy_pemberton ??/2003 Lead
goi.ashmore 24/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Tim M ??/2000 2nd O/S
bullybones ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 -

A great route. The only soft touch in Cornwall?

Roget 15/Aug/99 Solo O/S
lost.arrow 09/Aug/99 Lead
with Paul Palfreyman, Gill Heartly
Hidden 17/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/97 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/97 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 05/Jul/95 Lead
with Emmy McCowen
Andy Say 02/Jun/94 Solo O/S
3 Names ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Brian Parker
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
whispering nic ?/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Ali W
rogerskews 30/May/91 -
with Bryn Roberts
steveb2006 06/Sep/90 Lead
with Simon Mee
Hidden ??/1988 -
Neil R 24/May/87 2nd
with Ian
Gregory ??/1984 Lead
with caroline lee
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1978 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Tom McCabe, leon, stephen ashworth, Hidden, quiffhanger, hutchay, Hidden, Motown, Hidden, Hidden, iksander, johnpr, climbingpixie, Hidden, Master Chief, Ian Jones, erinbastian, Hidden, Hidden, Alan100, Ropeboy, Hidden
High E2
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Low E2
High E1
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High HVS
Votes cast 60
High 5c
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Low 5c
High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 60
Votes cast 57
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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