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Rock Dancer** E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
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[Dave Talbot on Rock Dancer, 3 kb]46m. An excellent, sustained wall-pitch with good but spaced protection. It is at the upper end of the E1 grade. Start 6m left of the house-sized boulder and just right of a narrow corner above the low overhang. 36m. Make some hard moves through the low overhang to reach the diagonal break. Step left and climb the wall directly to the right end of a short left-slanting hand-ledge. Move up onto it and from its left end move up the wall past wires to a horizontal finger-crack. Finish direct to a flake belay and scramble off left. © ROCKFAX
A direct line up the slab right of Saxon with tricky protection. Start on a large boulder left of the Saxon start and pull strenuously throught the overhang into the break at 4m (it is possible to protect this section after the first move is made). Continue direct for 10-15m before pulling up to and onto the obvious sloping ledge. Move to the left end of this and finish direct.
R Edwards, M Edwards 17/Apr/1979

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Dave Talbot on Rock Dancer © www.climbpembroke.com
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 141 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

twem - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Nicholas Eaton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/13

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Oct/13

AndyMcCoy - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/13 with Bill

Fantastic climb!
Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/13

mutt - Lead β - 12/Aug/13

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 08/Aug/13 with David

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Dan Lane

What delightful climbing. Never too hard, always enjoyable and constantly thought-provoking. I can imagine it's a bit exciting on the sharp end though.
Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Tom Livingstone

Mark Kemball - Lead - 31/Jul/13 with Astrid Saxby, Solly Kemball Dorey

Hidden - Lead - Jul/13

Alex the Alex - 2nd - Jul/13

balancy and nice on shunt
rurp - TR O/S - 29/May/13

Pleasant. Thin gear
morganator - Lead - 17/May/13 with International Meet Guest

Hidden - 2nd - 17/May/13

Simon Alden - Lead O/S - 16/May/13 with Craig Harwood

Hidden - TR - 04/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - May/13

I've been wanting to lead this since seconding the route with nick. Lived up to all my expectations.
Dilwat - Lead rpt - 02/Apr/13 with dready

wow so good!
dready - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/13 with dillwat

Hidden - Apr/13

David led
rd20 - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/13 with Fiona

Ended up mantling onto the ledge. Scary and not easy, or the easiest way of doing it. Standard E1 if you do it correctly I reckon. Fairly steady with loads of gear and no hands rests.
dprctr - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/13 with Fiona McFarlane, Robert Dufton

Fiona McFarlane - 2nd O/S - Mar/13 with Dave proctor, Robert Dufton

burto - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/12 with hertha

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/12

Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Rob Adie

s.c.white - 08/Sep/12 with stuart inchely

stuart34 - 2nd - 08/Sep/12 with simon white

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/12

gowla - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/12 with Paddy Mitton, Alex Burns

The_Boy_ODwyer - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Ian Lau

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12

paddymitton - 2nd - Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jul/12

Jenny Crook - 2nd - 27/Jul/12 with Rob Patchett

Couldn't commit to the crux and then it started to rain so backed off.
Jim Slater - Lead dnf - 01/Jul/12 with Chris

Ed F - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jun/12

Very good, difficult to know exactly where it goes though. Top end e1.
James Oswald - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/12 with Jon Stewart

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/12

Slipped off the tricky starting moves first time, clean ground up at second attempt. A fantastic route, some great sequences and a beautiful setting.
The Ivanator - 2nd RP - 06/Jun/12 with Jez

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Start seemed fairly steady at the start then some tricky moves to get up to a hand rail.
monsteratt - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12 with Chris Goddard

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Sarah

cem - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/12 with Graham Dolman

Dave Rumney - Lead - 31/Mar/12 with Tanya Milner

adie84 - 2012

wojtt - Lead O/S - 2012

andybenham - 2nd rpt - 26/Nov/11 with paul abram

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/11

Fantastic route enjoyed it more than Saxon.
domskezz - Lead - 22/Sep/11 with Jamma

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11

Might have strayed off route slightly leftwards... Amazing rock and brilliant climbing though. Gear is iffy and sparse but the holds are surprisingly better than it appears from below.
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/11 with Graham Charman

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/11 with Marti

Lovely tricky moves
Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Phil, Paul

philmcf - 2nd O/S - Jul/11

JulesV - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/11

Graham Atkins - 2nd - 25/Jun/11

finished up In the gallery.
Dizz - 2nd - 22/Jun/11 with Richard S

Em66 - AltLd - 03/Jun/11 with Mat

Hidden - Lead - Jun/11

Pippa - Lead O/S - 30/May/11 with Jon

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/11

Hidden - Lead - May/11

Ant Man Bee - 2nd - 28/Apr/11 with Charles Mason, Charles Moreton

cem - 2nd rpt - 28/Apr/11 with Charles Mason, Paul Bolton

Superfantastic. The start was easier than expected, but getting onto the juggy ledge was exciting!
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11 with crossdressingrodney

Outstanding.
crossdressingrodney - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/11 with victim of mathematics

Mike managed to get a surprising amount of good protection on this route (including a cam dropped by a party that had just climbed Saxon). The superb 1-finger pull to get established on the ledge 2/3 of the way up felt like the crux.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - 2nd - 25/Apr/11 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - Lead - 25/Apr/11

jchenoweth - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Charlie Jeynes

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2011

Hidden - 2011

very ...ahem ...memorable
andybenham - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with jeremy dugan

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/10

david morse - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/10 with chris todd

Hidden - Lead - 02/Sep/10

colkurtz - 2nd - 02/Sep/10 with Robb

Nel Tindale - 2nd dog - 28/Aug/10 with Percy

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 16/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10

Dave Lacey - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/10 with jak.kelly

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10

gripped01 - Lead - Aug/10 with Nel Tindale

Dilwat - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Nick

Different Steve - Lead rpt - 12/May/10 with Luis Silva

Excellent route with delicate face climbing and some hidden holds. I only managed to place about six pieces of protection for the whole pitch (offset nuts and small cams). The final belay on the preplaced rope (that we used for the abseil)
verticon - Lead O/S - 12/May/10 with Craig Harwood

Hidden - Lead - 07/May/10

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Clare

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

great climb ,steep for a slab but positive holds throughout ,soft for e1
misterb - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/09 with simon

jon thompson27 - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with simon mayell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09

Fantastic route. Pete did an excellent job of protecting it.
rockferret - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Pete

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09

Swotson - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/09 with Tony Madden

climber130887 - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/09 with luke hunt

datoon - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with S

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08

Not as direct as the topo in Littlejohn's SW guide suggests, altho I might have wandered a bit in search for gear. Some routefinding required all the same.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/08 with Simon Denison

KRB - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/07 with Martin Bridges

chrissloan84 - 2nd - 07/Apr/07 with AJM

Tim Sparrow - Lead - Apr/07 with Geoff Thomas

Rob Kennard - 2007

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 17/Apr/06 with Steve Gray

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/04

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Laura

cem - 2nd rpt - 11/Apr/04 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/03

cem - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/03 with Sally Dipple

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Mar/03

andy_pemberton - Lead - 2003

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/02 with Roy Thomas

Tim M - 2nd O/S - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Roget - Solo O/S - 15/Aug/99

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/97

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 05/Jul/95 with Emmy McCowen

Andy Say - Solo O/S - 02/Jun/94

3 Names - Lead O/S - 1994 with Brian Parker

Hidden - Lead - 1994

whispering nic - Lead O/S - Aug/91 with Ali W

rogerskews - 30/May/91 with Bryn Roberts

Hidden - Lead - 06/Sep/90

Hidden - 1988

Hidden - 2nd - 24/May/87

Chris Craggs - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Motown, Justin T, Hidden, Hidden, iksander, johnpr, James Oswald, climbingpixie, Hidden, Master Chief, Ian Jones, erinbastian, Hidden, Hidden, Alan100, Ropeboy, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 106
hard E20 of 36
E21 of 36
easy E20 of 36
hard E114 of 36
E118 of 36
easy E13 of 36
hard HVS0 of 36
HVS0 of 36
easy HVS0 of 36
hard 5c0 of 36
5c0 of 36
easy 5c0 of 36
hard 5b3 of 36
5b28 of 36
easy 5b5 of 36
hard 5a0 of 36
5a0 of 36
easy 5a0 of 36
3 Stars22 of 34
2 Stars12 of 34
1 Star0 of 34
0 Stars0 of 34
Bag of .....0 of 34
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 141 (1.4%)
Lead71 of 141 (50.4%)
Followed54 of 141 (38.3%)
Toproped2 of 141 (1.4%)
Alt Leads1 of 141 (0.7%)
Unknown11 of 141 (7.8%)

'Climbed'53 of 141 (37.6%)
clean O/S74 of 141 (52.5%)
clean β1 of 141 (0.7%)
clean rpt9 of 141 (6.4%)
clean RP1 of 141 (0.7%)
dogged1 of 141 (0.7%)
dnf2 of 141 (1.4%)