2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Stylish climbing requiring good technique and a set of strong fingers. Start just left of the cave below a ledge at 3m.
1) 5b, 15m. Boulder to a ledge at 3m and move up the technical wall above it. Continue through the narrowing groove to a stance on a prow.
2) 5a, 10m. Climb up the steep crack behind the belay and then traverse wildly rightwards around the arete to finish direct on good holds. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 1968

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

shoulders 08/May Lead O/S
with pete lewis
Oo 01/May 2nd
with Tim_C7
Tim_C7 01/May Lead O/S

Absolutely fantastic route. Great variety, delicate then mad!

with Toby D
Hidden 01/May -
Nathan Chrismas 30/Apr 2nd dnf

First half really interesting climbing (if a bit polished), had a mare and bottled the swing, escaped left.

with Timms
dbrooks 25/Mar AltLd O/S

led p1, 2 good contrasting pitches..first time out climbing for a while. enjoyable climb

with Will
Will Mortimer 25/Mar AltLd dog

First lead since the knee injury. Awesome route, terrible fitness..

with Derwood
Rob Moorcroft 20/Mar 2nd
with Richard Ive
Jack Porteous 12/Mar 2nd
Hidden 30/Sep/15 TR
nickdonohue 15/May/15 Lead

I didn't expect to find it but there was good gear (wires & small cams) protecting the crux on the lower wall.

with Andy Bisson
Hidden ??/2015 -
FATBOYFAT ??/2015 Lead O/S
jacobjohncharles 08/Dec/14 Lead O/S
martin clarke 01/Nov/14 2nd rpt
stephen ashworth 01/Nov/14 Lead
with Ian hendy, martin clarke
lcullum7 13/Sep/14 TR O/S
with KES
adrianellis 13/Sep/14 TR dnf

Couldn't get past crux. At least I've tried an E1 now.

with KES
Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead dog
Duncan Campbell 12/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Nice to do such a fun route again. So good.

with GuyVG
Wood for Trees 12/Aug/14 2nd

thin low down and righteous wild jugs at the top

alice fuller 20/Jun/14 Lead RP

had thick- with- feet moment on the crux..lowered off on nuts, then did moved fine. great climb. pete v patient:)

Hidden 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Lee_Meaden 13/May/14 Lead RP

Linked both pitches together. Great technical first pitch. Commited 2nd pitch. Commited to the block only for gear to pop out of cave....Attack of the disco leg....Sweaty brow in full flow....thankfully pulled through after calming words of encouragement from belayer

with Luke Robinson
Lee_Meaden 15/Apr/14 TR rpt
mark schramm 09/Apr/14 TR
Hidden 09/Apr/14 TR RP
Neil Rigiani 09/Apr/14 TR O/S

Delicate moves over slab to finish on big holds at top.


First pitch only HARD thin moves.

with Pete
tobydunford 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
lawsy_boy1 ??/2014 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 14/Dec/13 Lead rpt
LJC 08/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Theo
alice_loudon 07/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with Mungo, Geoff
riddle 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches, P2 was interesting.

with Charles Moreton
cem 22/Sep/13 2nd

Good route. Thought p1 was tough for the grade

R2B 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Loved it! Great slab with brilliant holds to blind wild swing out on jugs. Lead as one pitch. One of my favourites here so far!

with Charlotte
timreynolds 28/Aug/13 Lead dog

Will return for a clean ascent when not so sweaty!

Didymus 18/Aug/13 Lead dnf

forgot that polish and hot midday sun don't mix - downclimbed from halfway up slab

Chris dyer 02/Aug/13 TR dnf
with Jack Hunter, Josh sims
josh.sims 02/Aug/13 TR
Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd rpt
Dan 85 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Daz
Andy Moles 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Burton
dparsons 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Joe Costello 27/May/13 Lead O/S

Half decent. Nice mono!

with Tammy
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
sinbad 16/Apr/13 2nd
with Chris Blaxland, Pete
Dibdawg 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Dean177 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Polished start (as with all the climbs here) but a decent finish.

Lauren Davies 06/Feb/13 TR O/S
with Ant
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Neil Morbey 03/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Dave B
Luxulyan 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
BelayBunney 27/Sep/12 Lead β

Really pleased I led this! Thought I was coming off on the crux, but managed to push through! Well chuffed.

francois 27/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Chris
Hidden ?/Aug/12 2nd
Samuel Wainwright 28/Jun/12 Lead O/S

5b crux on mono finger locks.. i love slabs!!

mark schramm 27/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Dave C
Hidden 28/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/May/12 2nd dnf
francois 27/May/12 Lead O/S
with Chawn
mark schramm 23/May/12 Lead rpt
with Lyndsay
Doug miller 18/May/12 Lead
cwildblood 18/May/12 2nd dog
Davebryant 17/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
sam.hann 17/Apr/12 AltLd
Chris Ebbutt 13/Apr/12 2nd
with Dave R.
Okecroak 13/Apr/12 2nd
with C. Ebbutt, W. Frost
KDhruev 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with angus
Mr Powly 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Ian B
ian d f 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Mark
Ed Babs 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/12 2nd
burto 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
AlistairB 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Climbed a bit to the left of the first wall owing to seepage. Climbed as one pitch.

with Bjorn
Hidden 12/Nov/11 2nd dog
twright180 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ?/Nov/11 Lead
with Rik Meek
Toby Dunn 05/Oct/11 2nd
with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 05/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Toby
Ed morris 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with ewan
Frostie 21/Aug/11 Lead
with Nick Andrews
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
mark schramm 01/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with chawn
mark schramm 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with tom mason
just one more 28/May/11 Lead O/S
with Svenn G
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead rpt
PaulTanton 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
davenev 20/Apr/11 -
with luke
Mr Tickle 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Very hot day made the polished holds worse

with davenev
pezzerrr 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
MH123 15/Apr/11 2nd O/S
adam cooper*super* 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

very nice route and warm up :)

Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Luke90 30/Jan/11 Lead

Clean(ish) onsight. One cheeky slump onto gear near the bottom but I didn't have the heart to call it dogged (my first E1).

with Chris
dale1968 28/Jan/11 2nd dnf
with Tom
Hidden 28/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Sam W 25/Oct/10 -

Sandbag at HVS (South Devon and Dartmoor guidebook). Peg runner no longer present

nopants 25/Oct/10 2nd
with Sam W
francesanncavanagh 20/Oct/10 2nd
with Haven Banks
misterb 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with wain
feilx 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
JonBrown 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tiff
TiffTiff 04/Sep/10 2nd β
Rupey 04/Sep/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/Aug/10 2nd dog
Toby Dunn 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/10 TR O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/10 TR dog
Bristoldave 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with nick
tskelhon 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Nice and sweaty.

Jon_Warner 25/Jul/10 2nd rpt

Finishing with the wild rightwards swing feels hard (bold perhaps) for E1...

with Tom
Chris_barr 09/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Retro Flash, stiff lower wall section, Pockets. Good top juggy section.

with Harry
thomb ?/Jun/10 -
Hidden 18/May/10 TR rpt
Hidden 18/May/10 TR
jamessandels 29/Mar/10 TR
with Henry Picket
Hidden 20/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S

awesome route reli ahd to fight on the finish! did in one pitch not sure why you would bother in 2 pitches u get a full recovery after initial crux

r1msy 11/Aug/09 TR rpt
with Tom
tom169 11/Aug/09 -
rockferret 08/Aug/09 2nd

Lead the bottom section, messed up a gear placement and then hung around too long and finally came off. Phil took over and showed me how it was done. Seconded it clean.

with Phil
Phil79 08/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Rockferret
Hidden 25/Jun/09 Lead
tom169 24/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Jack
pedro.silva 07/Jun/09 2nd dog

Amazing climb. Move at the top to traverse around pinacle is quite dawnting but holds are perfect. Came off, one foot slipped at the start.

with Phil
Phil79 07/Jun/09 Lead rpt

Finally got back on this and did the end clean. Great route - technical start, comitting finish.

with Pedro
Marti999 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
briar4012 11/Apr/09 2nd rpt

The peg has gone...

with Marti
mike88 16/Feb/09 Lead O/S

Wicked route! the 2 pitches are so different.

with Robbie Warke
Hidden 31/Jan/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 10/Jan/09 2nd O/S
Jack_F ??/2009 Lead O/S

Definately still HVS

with Max hodges
Phil79 ?/Dec/08 Lead dog

Strung both pitch's together, but wimped out at the top & finshed left, rather than swing right. Will be back to do it clean.

with Baz
adamscottthomas 19/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this route

with Pete and Anna
briar4012 19/Nov/08 2nd dog
with Adam and Pete
Reeges 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd Pitch. Great route, really contrasting pitches. Get a friend with a camera to capture the top moves! Ape like!

Hidden 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
AlexD 23/Jul/08 Lead β
with Sim
Hidden ?/Jul/08 2nd RP
Popkids 28/Jun/08 2nd O/S

The top traverse is bold and comitting but on good jugs

with Kafoozalem
Justin T 16/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Wifey
Hidden 09/Jun/08 2nd
Steerpike 22/May/08 Lead rpt
with Huw
BruceW 22/Mar/08 Lead dog

Very polished foothold - slipped off twice!

with Becca
bpmclimb 20/Feb/08 Lead dnf

Had a really bad day today - as if backing off Machete Wall wasn't enough, backed off this as well. Will do it next time.

with Mark
Rupey 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with W, S +H
dewrats ??/2008 Lead O/S
sharmawho? ??/2008 2nd O/S
with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave
Justin T 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Crispin
Dave Searle 31/Jul/07 Lead
Noodles ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S

Very pumpy + i was pretty tierd.

with Bridget Benson
Steerpike 08/Jun/07 Lead dog
with Tommo
manwithacam 12/May/07 Lead

Came off onto piton on bottom wall. Top traverse 'gets one going'. Dont hang about.

with Martin
Dave Searle 16/Apr/07 Lead O/S
misterb 08/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with dave
climber sim ??/2007 -
eddy-on-the-rocks ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Dave Searle 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
nathanmanc 02/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
Mark Kemball 26/Feb/06 Lead
with Nic Dill
Hidden 06/Aug/05 Lead dnf
max_chan ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Lou
Hidden 13/Mar/05 Lead O/S
JeromeT ??/2005 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 18/Oct/03 -
Ben1983 ?/Jul/03 Lead β
Hidden ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
chris sm 04/Apr/03 2nd O/S
with Julie Osborn
jmhood ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Richard Everson
Hidden ??/2000 -
John Mcshea ??/1997 Lead
Roget 08/May/96 2nd O/S
with jon
leadmat ?/Jul/95 Lead
shark ?/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with John Codling
tuftynick ??/1995 Lead
with ben winston
kristian 27/Mar/94 Lead
pmot ??/1994 -
sdht ??/1994 -
Hidden 11/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
Mickdenali ??/1990 Lead
davidalcock ??/1988 -
with Philip Scorer
Hidden ??/1987 2nd
Hidden 26/Jul/84 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Simon cook ??/1978 -
Simon cook ??/1974 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Owen W-G, Ropeboy, Hidden, Master Chief, nick hawkins, Kate Edhouse, nblackbeard, richardr
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 35
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set