Twang** E1 5b
[The monkey move, Twang - E1 5b - Chudleigh Rocks, 3 kb]2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Stylish climbing requiring good technique and a set of strong fingers. Start just left of the cave below a ledge at 3m.
1) 5b, 15m. Boulder to a ledge at 3m and move up the technical wall above it. Continue through the narrowing groove to a stance on a prow.
2) 5a, 10m. Climb up the steep crack behind the belay and then traverse wildly rightwards around the arete to finish direct on good holds. © ROCKFAX

FA. P.Littlejohn 1968

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: The monkey move, Twang - E1 5b - Chudleigh Rocks © pedro.silva
View all 8 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 179 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Hidden - TR - 30/Sep/15

I didn't expect to find it but there was good gear (wires & small cams) protecting the crux on the lower wall.
nickdonohue - Lead - 15/May/15 with Andy Bisson

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/14

martin clarke - 2nd rpt - 01/Nov/14 with steve ashworth

stephen ashworth - Lead - 01/Nov/14 with Ian hendy, martin clarke

lcullum7 - TR O/S - 13/Sep/14 with KES

Couldn't get past crux. At least I've tried an E1 now.
adrianellis - TR dnf - 13/Sep/14 with KES

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Sep/14

Nice to do such a fun route again. So good.
Duncan Campbell - Lead rpt - 12/Aug/14 with GuyVG

thin low down and righteous wild jugs at the top
GuyVG - 2nd - 12/Aug/14 with duncan campbell

Hidden - Lead RP - 20/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/14

A fair climb with good gear and positive holds. There are two ways to do the top.
Ben Russell - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Tom Newberry

Lee_Meaden - Lead RP - 13/May/14 with Luke Robinson

Lee_Meaden - TR rpt - 15/Apr/14

mark schramm - TR - 09/Apr/14

Jamiet297 - TR RP - 09/Apr/14 with David Coley, mark schramm

Delicate moves over slab to finish on big holds at top.
Neil Rigiani - TR O/S - 09/Apr/14 with Dave Coley

Hidden - TR - 23/Mar/14

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Harry Martin

lawsy_boy1 - Lead - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Dec/13

LJC - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/13 with Theo

alice_loudon - 2nd O/S - 07/Nov/13 with Mungo, Geoff

Lead both pitches, P2 was interesting.
riddle - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Charles Moreton

Good route. Thought p1 was tough for the grade
cem - 2nd - 22/Sep/13 with Roger Hamilton-Smith

Loved it! Great slab with brilliant holds to blind wild swing out on jugs. Lead as one pitch. One of my favourites here so far!
R2B - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Charlotte

Will return for a clean ascent when not so sweaty!
timreynolds - Lead dog - 28/Aug/13

forgot that polish and hot midday sun don't mix - downclimbed from halfway up slab
Jon Didymus - Lead dnf - 18/Aug/13 with Matt Coburn

Chris dyer - TR dnf - 02/Aug/13 with Jack Hunter, Josh sims

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Jul/13

Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Daz

Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/13 with Burton

dparsons - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/13

Half decent. Nice mono!
Joe Costello - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with Tammy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/13

sinbad - 2nd - 16/Apr/13 with Chris Blaxland, Pete

Dibdawg - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Dean Merchant

Polished start (as with all the climbs here) but a decent finish.
Dean177 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13

Lauren Davies - TR O/S - 06/Feb/13 with Ant

Nick Biven - 2013

Neil Morbey - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/12 with Dave B

Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12

Really pleased I led this! Thought I was coming off on the crux, but managed to push through! Well chuffed.
BelayBunney - Lead β - 27/Sep/12 with Francois

francois - 2nd rpt - 27/Sep/12 with Chris

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/12

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 27/Jun/12 with Dave C

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/May/12

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 28/May/12

francois - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Chawn

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 23/May/12 with Lyndsay

Doug miller - Lead - 18/May/12 with chris wildblood

cwildblood - 2nd dog - 18/May/12 with doug miller

Davebryant - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/12 with Sam Hann

sam.hann - AltLd - 17/Apr/12 with Davebryant

chris ebbutt - 2nd - 13/Apr/12 with Dave R.

Okecroak - 2nd - 13/Apr/12 with C. Ebbutt, W. Frost

KDhruev - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/12 with angus

Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/12 with Ian B

ian d f - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Mark

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Feb/12

burto - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/12 with hertha

Climbed a bit to the left of the first wall owing to seepage. Climbed as one pitch.
AlistairB - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Bjorn

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/Nov/11

twright180 - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11

andy_pemberton - Lead - Nov/11 with Rik Meek

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 05/Oct/11 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/11 with Toby

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/11 with ewan

Frostie - Lead - 21/Aug/11 with Nick Andrews

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 01/Aug/11 with chawn

mark schramm - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11 with tom mason

just one more - Lead O/S - 28/May/11 with Svenn G

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Apr/11

PaulTanton - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Chris Reid

davenev - 20/Apr/11 with luke

Very hot day made the polished holds worse
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11 with davenev

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11

MH123 - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/11 with Jack Folland

very nice route and warm up :)
adam cooper*super* - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11

Clean(ish) onsight. One cheeky slump onto gear near the bottom but I didn't have the heart to call it dogged (my first E1).
Luke90 - Lead - 30/Jan/11 with Chris

dale1968 - 2nd dnf - 28/Jan/11 with Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/11

Sandbag at HVS (South Devon and Dartmoor guidebook). Peg runner no longer present
Sam W - 25/Oct/10 with Nick Wheldon

nopants - 2nd - 25/Oct/10 with Sam W

francesanncavanagh - 2nd - 20/Oct/10 with Haven Banks

misterb - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with wain

feilx - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Heather

JonBrown - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Tiff

TiffTiff - 2nd β - 04/Sep/10 with Jon Brown

Rupey - 2nd rpt - 04/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/10

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Sue Hazel

Hidden - TR O/S - 22/Aug/10

Hidden - TR dog - 22/Aug/10

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with nick

Nice and sweaty.
tskelhon - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with John_Warner

Finishing with the wild rightwards swing feels hard (bold perhaps) for E1...
Jon_Warner - 2nd rpt - 25/Jul/10 with Tom

Retro Flash, stiff lower wall section, Pockets. Good top juggy section.
Chris_barr - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/10 with Harry

thomb - Jun/10

Hidden - TR rpt - 18/May/10

Hidden - TR - 18/May/10

jamessandels - TR - 29/Mar/10 with Henry Picket

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Dec/09

awesome route reli ahd to fight on the finish! did in one pitch not sure why you would bother in 2 pitches u get a full recovery after initial crux
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Jerome Taylor

r1msy - TR rpt - 11/Aug/09 with Tom

tom169 - 11/Aug/09

Lead the bottom section, messed up a gear placement and then hung around too long and finally came off. Phil took over and showed me how it was done. Seconded it clean.
rockferret - 2nd - 08/Aug/09 with Phil

Phil79 - Lead rpt - 08/Aug/09 with Rockferret

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jun/09

tom169 - Lead rpt - 24/Jun/09 with Jack

Amazing climb. Move at the top to traverse around pinacle is quite dawnting but holds are perfect. Came off, one foot slipped at the start.
pedro.silva - 2nd dog - 07/Jun/09 with Phil

Finally got back on this and did the end clean. Great route - technical start, comitting finish.
Phil79 - Lead rpt - 07/Jun/09 with Pedro

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09

The peg has gone...
briar4012 - 2nd rpt - 11/Apr/09 with Marti

Wicked route! the 2 pitches are so different.
mike88 - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/09 with Robbie Warke

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/Jan/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jan/09

Definately still HVS
Jack_F - Lead O/S - 2009 with Max hodges

Strung both pitch's together, but wimped out at the top & finshed left, rather than swing right. Will be back to do it clean.
Phil79 - Lead dog - Dec/08 with Baz

Really enjoyed this route
adamscottthomas - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/08 with Pete and Anna

briar4012 - 2nd dog - 19/Nov/08 with Adam and Pete

Lead 2nd Pitch. Great route, really contrasting pitches. Get a friend with a camera to capture the top moves! Ape like!
Reeges - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/08 with Nick Saunders

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/08

AlexD - Lead β - 23/Jul/08 with Sim

Hidden - 2nd RP - Jul/08

The top traverse is bold and comitting but on good jugs
Popkids - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/08 with Kafoozalem

Justin T - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/08 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jun/08

Steerpike - Lead rpt - 22/May/08 with Huw

Very polished foothold - slipped off twice!
BruceW - Lead dog - 22/Mar/08 with Becca

Had a really bad day today - as if backing off Machete Wall wasn't enough, backed off this as well. Will do it next time.
bpmclimb - Lead dnf - 20/Feb/08 with Mark

Rupey - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08 with W, S +H

dewrats - Lead O/S - 2008 with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr

sharmawho? - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave

Justin T - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/07 with Crispin

Dave Searle - Lead - 31/Jul/07

Very pumpy + i was pretty tierd.
Noodles - 2nd O/S - Jul/07 with Bridget Benson

Steerpike - Lead dog - 08/Jun/07 with Tommo

Came off onto piton on bottom wall. Top traverse 'gets one going'. Dont hang about.
manwithacam - Lead - 12/May/07 with Martin

Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/07

misterb - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/07 with dave

climber sim - 2007

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Sep/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/06

Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/06

nathanmanc - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/06 with Chris Todd

Mark Kemball - Lead - 26/Feb/06 with Nic Dill

Hidden - Lead dnf - 06/Aug/05

max_chan - Lead O/S - May/05 with Lou

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/05

JeromeT - Lead O/S - 2005

Ben1983 - Lead β - Jul/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/03

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 04/Apr/03 with Julie Osborn

jmhood - Lead O/S - 2003 with Richard Everson

Roget - 2nd O/S - 08/May/96 with jon

leadmat - Lead - Jul/95

shark - Lead O/S - Apr/95 with John Codling

tuftynick - Lead - 1995 with ben winston

kristian - Lead - 27/Mar/94

pmot - 1994

sdht - 1994

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/90

Hidden - 1990

Mickdenali - Lead - 1990

davidalcock - 1988 with Philip Scorer

Hidden - 2nd - 1987

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/84

Steve Bell - 1979

Simon cook - 1978

Simon cook - 1974

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Owen W-G, Ropeboy, Master Chief, nick hawkins, Kate Edhouse, nblackbeard, richardr

Total votes cast 94
hard E20 of 34
E20 of 34
easy E20 of 34
hard E14 of 34
E124 of 34
easy E13 of 34
hard HVS3 of 34
HVS0 of 34
easy HVS0 of 34
hard 5c0 of 31
5c0 of 31
easy 5c1 of 31
hard 5b3 of 31
5b26 of 31
easy 5b1 of 31
hard 5a0 of 31
5a0 of 31
easy 5a0 of 31
3 Stars6 of 29
2 Stars21 of 29
1 Star2 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP