Fruitflancase*** E1 5a
[Tony on Fruitflancase (E1 5a), 3 kb]46m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant crack-climb of sustained interest taking the steepest section of the sheer wall on the right-hand side of the Main Face. Start as for Central Groove.
1) 5a, 22m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and pull out rightwards onto a hanging slab. Climb the slab, then layback around the right end of the overhang and jam away to a stance at a large bollard on the right.
2) 4c, 18m. Climb up left to a diagonal crack, move up this and take the tricky vertical crack to a ledge. Move right to a belay below a clean-cut corner.
3) 4b, 9m. Pull up steeply left to a crack on the left arete of the corner. Move up the crack and finish up the wall slightly left to avoid vegetation. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A brilliant climb of sustained interest taking the steepest section of the sheer wall on the right side of the Main Face.
1) 5a. Climb the first 3-4 meters of Central Groove to the ledge and then move right on to the hanging slab. Climb this up right and then jam/layback the crack above around onto the face. Continue sustained jamming up this crack to a stance on the diagonal rake.
2) 4c. Move left to a short crack and continue up to the ledge belay below a clean cut corner (final pitch of Central groove).
3) 5a. Start just left of the corner below the overhanging arete. Step up to jam the crack that runs the length of the arete and follow this to the top. Alternatively, climb the clean cut corner of Central Groove at 4b.

FA. A.McFarlane 1969

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Kernow, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Tony on Fruitflancase (E1 5a) © Kafoozalem
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This climb is in 174 logbooks, and on 32 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/15

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/15

Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/15 with Jon de Leyser

Lead first pitch alot smoother this time... key is... get on with it lol......
clubmanpete - AltLd - 30/Jul/15 with geoffery smith

Pete lead 1st, I lead 2nd, 3rd in 1go, awsome climb, cant wait to be able to lead 1st pitch.
Skinnybloke - AltLd - 30/Jul/15 with clubmanpete

JonmapDL - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/15 with Andy Moles

Laura Faye - 2nd dog - 11/Jul/15 with Jeremy van Riemsdyke

Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Jul/15

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jul/15

led first pitch. So sustained, only 5a moves but so many in a row. Was quite pumped near the belay and ran out of jams in the flaring dirty crack, struggled with the slopers. Great climb!
Kemics - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/15 with Mel

Hinchrn - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/15 with Tom Berks

Jack Porteous - Lead dog - 23/Jun/15 with lucy walker

silviac - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/15 with Scott Borden

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/15

Gutted I didn't on site this due to one fall about half way up the jamming section.... tried laying back on the hold but to broken apart to do with getting pumped. Jamming is the way for sure... If not ya gunna get pumped. Awsome climb... Every move it has is committing.... Wanna do it again soon. But when I'm a bit fitter in the arms I think... Great belaying by partner geoff.... cheers
clubmanpete - AltLd - 11/Jun/15 with geoffery smith

Lead second pitch. Pete did well on the first. Both hitting our limits!
Skinnybloke - AltLd - 11/Jun/15 with clubmanpete

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/15

David Staples - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Glorious

martin one - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Markus

Jackislav - Lead rpt - 26/May/15

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 26/May/15 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/15

Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 25/May/15 with Halla

Lewis led in 1 long pitch
dbrooks - 2nd O/S - 20/May/15 with Lewis

Led in 1 pitch. Very nice climbing
Lewis Stewart - Lead O/S - 20/May/15 with Derwood

Got round the rock over to find it was very green and damp... bottled it!
Will Mortimer - Lead dnf - 18/Apr/15 with Simon Thursz

Joel Perkin - 2nd - 16/Apr/15 with Simon Hammond

Left plenty of skin inside the crack.....I need to practice my jamming technique! Sustained first pitch. Blocks at top of pitch 3 didn't look great so finished up final corner of CG.
simonhammond1966 - Lead dog - 16/Apr/15 with Joel Perkin

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 04/Apr/15

Drew M - Lead dog - 25/Oct/14 with Fred Lyon

LDJ - Lead - 27/Sep/14 with Lou

A brut of a climb, great crack climbing, right up my alley lol.
waydan - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/14 with El Swiftos

Led the first pitch and loved every minute. It looks intimidating but actually it's a great jamming crack.
Alan100 - AltLd - 26/May/14

Martin Bagshaw - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with Ian Pegg

Luxulyan - AltLd O/S - 02/May/14 with Sophie

P1 only then top pitch Gideon
Sophie Nunn - 2nd O/S - 02/May/14 with Richard

darcan - Lead - 25/Apr/14 with matt from plymouth

Pitch 1
gg4419 - AltLd rpt - 19/Apr/14 with Nick Stephens

nickstephens - AltLd rpt - 19/Apr/14 with Gareth Greeves

Hidden - 2014

ran top pitches together.
Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/13 with tj murry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/13

Jackislav - 2nd β - 14/Jul/13

Marks last climb |o(
nickstephens - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/13 with Mark Booker

Alex moore - Lead - Jul/13

jakenichol - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Kayleigh Tremaine

felixizzy - 2nd dog - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jun/13

With dave the kiwi
ellmang - 2nd - 25/May/13

Lead the first pitch
pelvoux - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Chris Bull

nickstephens - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with marija, Gareth Greeves

gg4419 - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13 with Nick Stephens

tim exley - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/13 with Kafoozalem

Hands to cold to feel the holds, backed off.
Skip - 2nd dnf - 24/Feb/13 with Neil Morbey, Mr Tickle

Mr Tickle - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with Mike

Lovely climbing, but incredibly pumped. I led p2/3 but escaped up CG due to rain!
Cheese Monkey - AltLd dog - 10/Oct/12 with jordon fleming

lead first pitch :) wow what a route !! i did fall off about half way up the crack cuz i was pumped but this was probs cuz i was hanging round for a while trying to get into the crack section and trying to chalk up wet holds. was gutted i didnt onsite it, cuz i should of :(
Jordon Fleming - AltLd - 10/Oct/12 with ben darby

Fx lead P1, I lead P2+P3 as one pitch. Great first pitch - really lovely to second! P2 and P3 are not that exciting.
BelayBunney - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Francois

One rest due to not being able to clip my cam and pumping out in the jamming section. Shoud have gone for it.
francois - Lead dog - 05/Sep/12 with Chris

Dave Rumney - AltLd - 31/Aug/12 with Tanya Milner

Got So Pumped had to rest twice on the first pitch
Doug miller - Lead dog - 23/May/12 with joe mortimer

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/12

mark schramm - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/12 with Baz

mark schramm - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/12 with Baz

Got to pumped on the main face had to rest. Lead second pitch no problem
bazthomas - AltLd dog - 11/Apr/12 with Mark Schramm

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Apr/12

Kayan - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with David Brock

MBarraclough - Lead - 2012

Tristan Sherlock - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/11 with George Coiley

felt hard for 5a, but then i'm rubbish at crack climbing! had more of a nightmare on CC-direct earlier in the year though.. probably just about E1
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Liam W

Led P1; Matt led P2 of Gideon
tim.fairhall - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/11 with Matt

i_a_coops - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11

Davebryant - AltLd - 31/Aug/11 with Kye Brooks, Bryn Mays

brynmays - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Dave Bryant

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11

Led in one long pitch. Nice route but mucky in places, especially top pitch crack!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11

chris ebbutt - AltLd - 11/Aug/11 with Tim

timreynolds - AltLd - 10/Aug/11

the crack on the first pitch felt hard and difficult to find the holds.. glad i wasnt leading it :D
Elaine Budden - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with mikey cleverdon

Lauren Davies - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with John Tanner

Soo pumped! Awesome though, my jamming wasn't quite as good as I thought after Lofoten
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Lauren Davies

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11

found this really tough, had to rest on the rope after getting pumped. nice climb once you've finished.
Curly Rich - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/11 with GMC JohnP

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 24/May/11

A fantastic way to end the year, my final exam for uni in the mourning then cycle to dewerston for some climbing this E1 was just brilliant!
Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 20/May/11 with martina, ed morris

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 19/May/11 with haydn jones

It was going well,got past the overhang the pumped out jaming the crack and had to sit on gear. Next time.
Popkids - Lead dog - 12/Mar/11 with Berry

berry - 2nd - 12/Mar/11 with tony hopkins

CptRicActiv - Lead β - 2011

David Sherratt - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

jcook1980 - 2nd O/S - Sep/10 with Leo

leohl - Lead O/S - Sep/10 with Jonathon Cook

Eike - 2nd - 18/Jul/10 with Chawn Harlow

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/10

a great climb, but can be bit dirty / vegetated. Sustained!
nickdonohue - Lead - Jul/10 with Steve ?, Martin ?

heavy rain started at top of first pitch
Philippa Arding - 2nd - 14/Jun/10 with jo nosworthy, nick arding

Home crag, shyed away from these E1's for years so had a crack at this. Got Well pumped and fell off what felt like the crux :) Too much slab climbing recently!
JonHarvey - Lead dnf - 03/Jun/10 with James Howell

PaulTanton - 2nd O/S - 30/May/10 with Chris Reid

Homes - AltLd - 23/May/10 with Thom W

twright180 - AltLd - 23/May/10 with Luke Homatron

A fine first pitch. Second refused to climb, due to route finding mishap. Had to ab and clean. Missed out p2. Ffs.
El3ctroFuzz - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Elaine Budden

martin clarke - 2nd - 2010 with nick, steve ashworth

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Oct/09

rob1 - 2nd - 28/Sep/09 with Dave Williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09

Luke d - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09

Didn't really do any jamming and didn't follow my game plan. Got very pumped as a result and blew the onsight. Completed the route after two rests on the rope at the crux to clear the pump.
rockferret - Lead dog - 16/Aug/09 with Pedro

Very strenuous climbing. Need to improve hand-jamming substantially. Needed several rests and used gear to move up 2 times
pedro.silva - 2nd dog - 16/Aug/09 with Martin B

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Charles Dawson

Insufficient attention paid to footwork. Should have used jamming more effectively
petecallaghan - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/09 with David Coley

Hung on...just about. Be back to lead this at some point.
graham knott - TR O/S - 08/Jul/09 with kafoozalem

Perhaps OK if you're an grandad climber. Wussed out on lead and pumped out on second.
Jon_Warner - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/09 with Mark Glaister

took a big fall, 4 metres, halfway up the jamming crack.
deklan - Lead dnf - 07/Jun/09 with luke

wowser, got very pumped. didn't have my trad head on.
w.pettet-smith - Lead - 30/May/09

lead all three pitches - found upper half of first pitch, the steep jamming crack, to be quite strenuous. Excellent effort from Jigi to follow!
ripper - Lead - 24/May/09 with Jigi Desai

Tim W - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with Marina Unterfosthuber

Only climbed the cracked arete final pitch at something like HVS 5a
rockferret - Lead dnf - 20/May/09 with Tony

Phil79 - Lead dnf - 06/May/09 with Jiff

andy_pemberton - 2nd - Mar/09 with Martin Dunning

paulh1967 - 2009

Popkids - 2nd rpt - 18/May/08 with Kafoozalem

RobSteere - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/08 with John Axeworthy

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/08

al led the first pitch.
ebunick - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Fat Al

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/08 with Jez

Popkids - 2nd dog - 09/Feb/08 with Kafoozalem & Nolan

Hidden - Lead dnf - 2008

Justin T - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/07 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/07

Lead 1st pitch.
alaan - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/07 with Connor

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/07

HArd Work
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/07 with Nik Goile

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

climber sim - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/06

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 31/May/06 with karing

leadmat - Lead - 2006

leadmat - 2006

feilx - 2005

And again 22/5/04.
charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/03

Hidden - Lead - 29/May/03

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/02

Frostie - Lead - 2002 with various

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jun/00

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Apr/00

bullybones - 2000

NickP - 2000

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 05/Dec/99 with Nic Dill

ChrisJD - Lead - Jul/99

Mickdenali - 1998 with Mark Harvey

colin milton - Lead dog - 14/Jul/94 with eric milton

Nigel Coe - TR - 23/Sep/92

Marti999 - Lead - 1992

Hidden - 1992

whispering nic - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/91 with Ali W

NickJH - 1991

sdht - 1990

daviesdan - Lead - 1989

finished up Gideon
Pete Nugent - Lead - 25/Sep/86

Nick Biven - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/86 with Rich Whitwell

davehvs - 1986

Simon cook - 1986

Richard Weller - Lead dog - 04/May/85 with Hugh Shinn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/84

Nigel Coe - Lead - 19/Nov/83 with Norman Wright

Chris Terrey - AltLd - 15/Mar/81 with Gerry Dunford

Hidden - Lead - 1981

mark-abz - 2nd - 26/Apr/80 with Brian W

Steve Bell - 1979

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1978 with Dave Greenald

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
andrewmcleod, EyebrowTom, twotter, hutchay, Alan100, OllieF, thesfg, Graham C, Master Chief, AJH, Dale Turrell, petecallaghan, JackHatton, chappers909, Kemics, givemetea, grumpyoldjanner, graham knott, Jenba*, Phil79

Total votes cast 97
hard E20 of 35
E20 of 35
easy E20 of 35
hard E111 of 35
E121 of 35
easy E13 of 35
hard HVS0 of 35
HVS0 of 35
easy HVS0 of 35
hard 5b0 of 35
5b0 of 35
easy 5b10 of 35
hard 5a17 of 35
5a8 of 35
easy 5a0 of 35
hard 4c0 of 35
4c0 of 35
easy 4c0 of 35
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat