46m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant crack-climb of sustained interest taking the steepest section of the sheer wall on the right-hand side of the Main Face. Start as for Central Groove.
1) 5a, 22m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and pull out rightwards onto a hanging slab. Climb the slab, then layback around the right end of the overhang and jam away to a stance at a large bollard on the right.
2) 4c, 18m. Climb up left to a diagonal crack, move up this and take the tricky vertical crack to a ledge. Move right to a belay below a clean-cut corner.
3) 4b, 9m. Pull up steeply left to a crack on the left arete of the corner. Move up the crack and finish up the wall slightly left to avoid vegetation. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A brilliant climb of sustained interest taking the steepest section of the sheer wall on the right side of the Main Face.
1) 5a. Climb the first 3-4 meters of Central Groove to the ledge and then move right on to the hanging slab. Climb this up right and then jam/layback the crack above around onto the face. Continue sustained jamming up this crack to a stance on the diagonal rake.
2) 4c. Move left to a short crack and continue up to the ledge belay below a clean cut corner (final pitch of Central groove).
3) 5a. Start just left of the corner below the overhanging arete. Step up to jam the crack that runs the length of the arete and follow this to the top. Alternatively, climb the clean cut corner of Central Groove at 4b.

FA. A.McFarlane 1969

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Kernow, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Hidden 28/Aug AltLd
Hidden 28/Aug Lead rpt
Andy Moles 30/Jul AltLd O/S
with Jon de Leyser
clubmanpete 30/Jul AltLd

Lead first pitch alot smoother this time... key is... get on with it lol......

Skinnybloke 30/Jul AltLd

Pete lead 1st, I lead 2nd, 3rd in 1go, awsome climb, cant wait to be able to lead 1st pitch.

JonmapDL 30/Jul AltLd O/S
Laura Faye 11/Jul 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Jul Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jul AltLd
Kemics 11/Jul AltLd O/S

led first pitch. So sustained, only 5a moves but so many in a row. Was quite pumped near the belay and ran out of jams in the flaring dirty crack, struggled with the slopers. Great climb!

with Mel
Hinchrn 01/Jul AltLd O/S
with Tom Berks
Jack Porteous 23/Jun Lead dog
with lucy walker
silviac 15/Jun 2nd O/S


with Scott Borden
Hidden 13/Jun AltLd O/S
clubmanpete 11/Jun AltLd

Gutted I didn't on site this due to one fall about half way up the jamming section.... tried laying back on the hold but to broken apart to do with getting pumped. Jamming is the way for sure... If not ya gunna get pumped. Awsome climb... Every move it has is committing.... Wanna do it again soon. But when I'm a bit fitter in the arms I think... Great belaying by partner geoff.... cheers

Skinnybloke 11/Jun AltLd

Lead second pitch. Pete did well on the first. Both hitting our limits!

Hidden 06/Jun AltLd O/S
David Staples 06/Jun AltLd O/S
martin one 06/Jun 2nd O/S
with Markus
Jackislav 26/May Lead rpt
Sam Simpson 26/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 25/May AltLd O/S


with Halla
dbrooks 20/May 2nd O/S

Lewis led in 1 long pitch

with Lewis
Lewis Stewart 20/May Lead O/S

Led in 1 pitch. Very nice climbing

with Derwood
Will Mortimer 18/Apr Lead dnf

Got round the rock over to find it was very green and damp... bottled it!

s.thursz 18/Apr 2nd
Joel Perkin 16/Apr 2nd
with Simon Hammond
simonhammond1966 16/Apr Lead dog

Left plenty of skin inside the crack.....I need to practice my jamming technique! Sustained first pitch. Blocks at top of pitch 3 didn't look great so finished up final corner of CG.

alice fuller 04/Apr 2nd rpt

Horrid - jamming.2nd George with rests in2013. Got clean today as a "warm up"...

Drew M 25/Oct/14 Lead dog
LDJ 27/Sep/14 Lead
with Lou
waydan 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S

A brut of a climb, great crack climbing, right up my alley lol.

Alan100 26/May/14 AltLd

Led the first pitch and loved every minute. It looks intimidating but actually it's a great jamming crack.

Martin Bagshaw 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
Luxulyan 02/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 02/May/14 2nd O/S

P1 only then top pitch Gideon

with Richard
darcan 25/Apr/14 Lead
gg4419 19/Apr/14 AltLd rpt

Pitch 1

nickstephens 19/Apr/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??/2014 -
Tom Seccombe 16/Oct/13 Lead O/S

ran top pitches together.

Hidden 11/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Jackislav 14/Jul/13 2nd β
nickstephens 10/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Marks last climb |o(

with Mark Booker
Alex moore ?/Jul/13 Lead
jakenichol 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
felixizzy 09/Jun/13 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Jun/13 AltLd
ellmang 25/May/13 2nd

With dave the kiwi

pelvoux 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Lead the first pitch

with Chris Bull
nickstephens 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with marija, Gareth Greeves
gg4419 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
tim exley 13/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Skip 24/Feb/13 2nd dnf

Hands to cold to feel the holds, backed off.

Mr Tickle 24/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Mike
Cheese Monkey 10/Oct/12 AltLd dog

Lovely climbing, but incredibly pumped. I led p2/3 but escaped up CG due to rain!

Jordon Fleming 10/Oct/12 AltLd

lead first pitch :) wow what a route !! i did fall off about half way up the crack cuz i was pumped but this was probs cuz i was hanging round for a while trying to get into the crack section and trying to chalk up wet holds. was gutted i didnt onsite it, cuz i should of :(

BelayBunney 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Fx lead P1, I lead P2+P3 as one pitch. Great first pitch - really lovely to second! P2 and P3 are not that exciting.

francois 05/Sep/12 Lead dog

One rest due to not being able to clip my cam and pumping out in the jamming section. Shoud have gone for it.

with Chris
Dave Rumney 31/Aug/12 AltLd
with Tanya Milner
Doug miller 23/May/12 Lead dog

Got So Pumped had to rest twice on the first pitch

Hidden 06/May/12 AltLd O/S
mark schramm 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Baz
mark schramm 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Baz
bazthomas 11/Apr/12 AltLd dog

Got to pumped on the main face had to rest. Lead second pitch no problem

onlyfoddington 01/Apr/12 2nd dog

Had three rests on the first pitch - some very sustained climbing.

with James H
Kayan 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
MBarraclough ??/2012 Lead
Tristan Sherlock 12/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with George Coiley
rustaldo 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

felt hard for 5a, but then i'm rubbish at crack climbing! had more of a nightmare on CC-direct earlier in the year though.. probably just about E1

with Liam W
tim.fairhall 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Led P1; Matt led P2 of Gideon

with Matt
i_a_coops 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Davebryant 31/Aug/11 AltLd
with Kye Brooks, Bryn Mays
brynmays 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led in one long pitch. Nice route but mucky in places, especially top pitch crack!

chris ebbutt 11/Aug/11 AltLd
with Tim
timreynolds 10/Aug/11 AltLd
Elaine Budden 12/Jul/11 2nd O/S

the crack on the first pitch felt hard and difficult to find the holds.. glad i wasnt leading it :D

with mikey cleverdon
Lauren Davies 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with John Tanner
John Tanner 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Soo pumped! Awesome though, my jamming wasn't quite as good as I thought after Lofoten

with Lauren Davies
Hidden 23/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Curly Rich 19/Jun/11 2nd dog

found this really tough, had to rest on the rope after getting pumped. nice climb once you've finished.

with GMC JohnP
Hidden 24/May/11 AltLd rpt
Haydn Jones 20/May/11 2nd O/S

A fantastic way to end the year, my final exam for uni in the mourning then cycle to dewerston for some climbing this E1 was just brilliant!

with martina, ed morris
Ed morris 19/May/11 Lead O/S
Popkids 12/Mar/11 Lead dog

It was going well,got past the overhang the pumped out jaming the crack and had to sit on gear. Next time.

with Berry
berry 12/Mar/11 2nd
with tony hopkins
CptRicActiv ??/2011 Lead β
David Sherratt ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
jcook1980 ?/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Leo
leohl ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Eike 18/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/10 Lead rpt
nickdonohue ?/Jul/10 Lead

a great climb, but can be bit dirty / vegetated. Sustained!

with Steve ?, Martin ?
Philippa Arding 14/Jun/10 2nd

heavy rain started at top of first pitch

with jo nosworthy, nick arding
JonHarvey 03/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Home crag, shyed away from these E1's for years so had a crack at this. Got Well pumped and fell off what felt like the crux :) Too much slab climbing recently!

with James Howell
PaulTanton 30/May/10 2nd O/S
Homes 23/May/10 AltLd
with Thom W
twright180 23/May/10 AltLd
with Luke Homatron
El3ctroFuzz 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S

A fine first pitch. Second refused to climb, due to route finding mishap. Had to ab and clean. Missed out p2. Ffs.

with Elaine Budden
martin clarke ??/2010 2nd
with nick, steve ashworth
Hidden 13/Oct/09 Lead rpt
rob1 28/Sep/09 2nd
with Dave Williams
Hidden 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Luke d 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
rockferret 16/Aug/09 Lead dog

Didn't really do any jamming and didn't follow my game plan. Got very pumped as a result and blew the onsight. Completed the route after two rests on the rope at the crux to clear the pump.

with Pedro
pedro.silva 16/Aug/09 2nd dog

Very strenuous climbing. Need to improve hand-jamming substantially. Needed several rests and used gear to move up 2 times

Luke Dawson ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
petecallaghan 15/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Insufficient attention paid to footwork. Should have used jamming more effectively

graham knott 08/Jul/09 TR O/S

Hung on...just about. Be back to lead this at some point.

with kafoozalem
Jon_Warner 26/Jun/09 2nd dog

Perhaps OK if you're an grandad climber. Wussed out on lead and pumped out on second.

with Mark Glaister
deklan 07/Jun/09 Lead dnf

took a big fall, 4 metres, halfway up the jamming crack.

with luke
w.pettet-smith 30/May/09 Lead

wowser, got very pumped. didn't have my trad head on.

ripper 24/May/09 Lead

lead all three pitches - found upper half of first pitch, the steep jamming crack, to be quite strenuous. Excellent effort from Jigi to follow!

with Jigi Desai
Tim W 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Marina Unterfosthuber
rockferret 20/May/09 Lead dnf

Only climbed the cracked arete final pitch at something like HVS 5a

with Tony
Phil79 06/May/09 Lead dnf
with Jiff
andy_pemberton ?/Mar/09 2nd
with Martin Dunning
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Popkids 18/May/08 2nd rpt
with Kafoozalem
RobSteere 15/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with John Axeworthy
Hidden ?/Apr/08 AltLd
ebunick 01/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

al led the first pitch.

with Fat Al
Steerpike 20/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Jez
Popkids 09/Feb/08 2nd dog
with Kafoozalem & Nolan
Hidden ??/2008 Lead dnf
Justin T 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Wifey
Hidden 06/Oct/07 2nd O/S
alaan 28/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch.

with Connor
Hidden 28/Aug/07 AltLd
chris wyatt 01/Aug/07 Lead O/S

HArd Work

Hidden 25/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 31/May/06 Lead O/S
with karing
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
leadmat ??/2006 -
feilx ??/2005 -
charlesmfrench 14/Sep/03 Lead O/S

And again 22/5/04.

Hidden 29/May/03 Lead
Rob Pitt ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
Frostie ??/2002 Lead
with various
Hidden 20/Jun/00 Lead
Hidden 21/Apr/00 2nd
bullybones ??/2000 -
NickP ??/2000 -
Mark Kemball 05/Dec/99 AltLd
with Nic Dill
Hidden ?/Jul/99 Lead
Mickdenali ??/1998 -
with Mark Harvey
colin milton 14/Jul/94 Lead dog
with eric milton
Nigel Coe 23/Sep/92 TR


Marti999 ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 -
whispering nic 21/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Ali W
NickJH ??/1991 -
sdht ??/1990 -
daviesdan ??/1989 Lead
Pete Nugent 25/Sep/86 Lead

finished up Gideon

Nick Biven 06/Sep/86 Lead O/S
with Rich Whitwell
davehvs ??/1986 -
Simon cook ??/1986 -
Richard Weller 04/May/85 Lead dog
with Hugh Shinn
Hidden 14/Jun/84 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 19/Nov/83 Lead
with Norman Wright
Chris Terrey 15/Mar/81 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
mark-abz 26/Apr/80 2nd
with Brian W
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Ian Jones ??/1978 Lead O/S
with Dave Greenald
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, andrewmcleod, EyebrowTom, twotter, Hidden, hutchay, Hidden, Hidden, Alan100, OllieF, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, thesfg, Graham C, Master Chief, AJH, Dale Turrell, Hidden, petecallaghan, JackHatton, Hidden, chappers909, Kemics, givemetea, grumpyoldjanner, graham knott, Hidden, Jenba*, Phil79, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 35
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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