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Fruitflancase*** E1 5a

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Gideon >>
[Crux move on the first pitch of Fruitflancase, 3 kb]46m, 3 pitches. A brilliant climb of sustained interest taking the steepest section of the sheer wall on the right side of the Main Face. 1) 5a. Start up Central Groove and move right on to the hanging slab. Climb the slab and layback around the right end of the overhang. Jam away to a stance on the diagonal rake. 2) 4c. Move left to a short crack and continue to a belay below a clean cut corner. 3) 4b. Climb the clean-cut corner to the top. © ROCKFAX
A brilliant climb of sustained interest taking the steepest section of the sheer wall on the right side of the Main Face. 1) 5a. Climb the first 3-4 meters of Central Groove to the ledge and then move right on to the hanging slab. Climb this up right and then jam/layback the crack above around onto the face. Continue sustained jamming up this crack to a stance on the diagonal rake. 2) 4c. Move left to a short crack and continue up to the ledge belay below a clean cut corner (final pitch of Central groove). 3) 5a. Start just left of the corner below the overhanging arete. Step up to jam the crack that runs the length of the arete and follow this to the top. Alternatively, climb the clean cut corner of Central Groove at 4b.
FA. A.McFarlane 1969

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Kernow, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Crux move on the first pitch of Fruitflancase © Carlos
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 137 logbooks, and on 30 wishlists.

A brut of a climb, great crack climbing, right up my alley lol.
waydan - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/14 with El Swiftos

Led the first pitch and loved every minute. It looks intimidating but actually it's a great jamming crack.
Alan100 - AltLd - 26/May/14

Martin Bagshaw - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with Ian Pegg

Luxulyan - AltLd O/S - 02/May/14 with Sophie

P1 only then top pitch Gideon
Sophie Nunn - 2nd O/S - 02/May/14 with Richard

darcan - Lead - 25/Apr/14 with matt from plymouth

Pitch 1
gg4419 - AltLd rpt - 19/Apr/14 with Nick Stephens

nickstephens - AltLd rpt - 19/Apr/14 with Gareth Greeves

Hidden - 2014

ran top pitches together.
Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/13 with tj murry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/13

Jackislav - 2nd β - 14/Jul/13

Marks last climb |o(
nickstephens - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/13 with Mark Booker

Alex moore - Lead - Jul/13

jakenichol - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Kayleigh Tremaine

felixizzy - 2nd dog - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jun/13

With dave the kiwi
ellmang - 2nd - 25/May/13

Lead the first pitch
pelvoux - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Chris Bull

nickstephens - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with marija, Gareth Greeves

gg4419 - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13 with Nick Stephens

tim exley - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/13 with Kafoozalem

Hands to cold to feel the holds, backed off.
Skip - 2nd dnf - 24/Feb/13 with Neil Morbey, Mr Tickle

Mr Tickle - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with Mike

Lovely climbing, but incredibly pumped. I led p2/3 but escaped up CG due to rain!
Cheese Monkey - AltLd dog - 10/Oct/12 with jordon fleming

lead first pitch :) wow what a route !! i did fall off about half way up the crack cuz i was pumped but this was probs cuz i was hanging round for a while trying to get into the crack section and trying to chalk up wet holds. was gutted i didnt onsite it, cuz i should of :(
Jordon Fleming - AltLd - 10/Oct/12 with ben darby

Fx lead P1, I lead P2+P3 as one pitch. Great first pitch - really lovely to second! P2 and P3 are not that exciting.
BelayBunney - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Francois

One rest due to not being able to clip my cam and pumping out in the jamming section. Shoud have gone for it.
francois - Lead dog - 05/Sep/12 with Chris

Dave Rumney - AltLd - 31/Aug/12 with Tanya Milner

Got So Pumped had to rest twice on the first pitch
Doug miller - Lead dog - 23/May/12 with joe mortimer

Lead P1. Damp greasy crack and no chalk, led to power screams. Finished more direct than the line in the topo. 3* climb!
TommityP - AltLd O/S - 06/May/12

mark schramm - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/12 with Baz

mark schramm - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/12 with Baz

Got to pumped on the main face had to rest. Lead second pitch no problem
bazthomas - AltLd dog - 11/Apr/12 with Mark Schramm

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Apr/12

Kayan - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with David Brock

Horrid - jamming.
alice fuller - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/12 with george coiley

Tristan Sherlock - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/11 with George Coiley

felt hard for 5a, but then i'm rubbish at crack climbing! had more of a nightmare on CC-direct earlier in the year though.. probably just about E1
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Liam W

i_a_coops - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11

Davebryant - AltLd - 31/Aug/11 with Kye Brooks, Bryn Mays

brynmays - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Dave Bryant

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11

Led in one long pitch. Nice route but mucky in places, especially top pitch crack!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11

chris ebbutt - AltLd - 11/Aug/11 with Tim

timreynolds - AltLd - 10/Aug/11

the crack on the first pitch felt hard and difficult to find the holds.. glad i wasnt leading it :D
Elaine Budden - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with mikey cleverdon

Lauren Davies - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with John Tanner

Soo pumped! Awesome though, my jamming wasn't quite as good as I thought after Lofoten
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Lauren Davies

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 24/May/11

A fantastic way to end the year, my final exam for uni in the mourning then cycle to dewerston for some climbing this E1 was just brilliant!
Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 20/May/11 with martina, ed morris

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 19/May/11 with haydn

It was going well,got past the overhang the pumped out jaming the crack and had to sit on gear. Next time.
Popkids - Lead dog - 12/Mar/11 with Berry

berry - 2nd - 12/Mar/11 with tony hopkins

CptRicActiv - Lead β - 2011

David Sherratt - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

jcook1980 - 2nd O/S - Sep/10 with Leo

leohl - Lead O/S - Sep/10 with Jonathon Cook

Eike - 2nd - 18/Jul/10 with Chawn Harlow

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/10

a great climb, but can be bit dirty / vegetated. Sustained!
nickdonohue - Lead - Jul/10 with Steve ?, Martin ?

heavy rain started at top of first pitch
Philippa Arding - 2nd - 14/Jun/10 with jo nosworthy, nick arding

Home crag, shyed away from these E1's for years so had a crack at this. Got Well pumped and fell off what felt like the crux :) Too much slab climbing recently!
JonHarvey - Lead dnf - 03/Jun/10 with James Howell

PaulTanton - 2nd O/S - 30/May/10 with Chris Reid

Homes - AltLd - 23/May/10 with Thom W

twright180 - AltLd - 23/May/10 with Luke Homatron

A fine first pitch. Second refused to climb, due to route finding mishap. Had to ab and clean. Missed out p2. Ffs.
El3ctroFuzz - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Elaine Budden

martin clarke - 2nd - 2010 with nick, steve ashworth

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Oct/09

rob1 - 2nd - 28/Sep/09 with Dave Williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09

Luke d - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09

Didn't really do any jamming and didn't follow my game plan. Got very pumped as a result and blew the onsight. Completed the route after two rests on the rope at the crux to clear the pump.
rockferret - Lead dog - 16/Aug/09 with Pedro

Very strenuous climbing. Need to improve hand-jamming substantially. Needed several rests and used gear to move up 2 times
pedro.silva - 2nd dog - 16/Aug/09 with Martin B

Insufficient attention paid to footwork. Should have used jamming more effectively
petecallaghan - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/09 with David Coley

Hung on...just about. Be back to lead this at some point.
graham knott - TR O/S - 08/Jul/09 with kafoozalem

Perhaps OK if you're an grandad climber. Wussed out on lead and pumped out on second.
Jon_Warner - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/09 with Mark Glaister

took a big fall, 4 metres, halfway up the jamming crack.
deklan - Lead dnf - 07/Jun/09 with luke

wowser, got very pumped. didn't have my trad head on.
w.pettet-smith - Lead - 30/May/09

lead all three pitches - found upper half of first pitch, the steep jamming crack, to be quite strenuous. Excellent effort from Jigi to follow!
ripper - Lead - 24/May/09 with Jigi Desai

Tim W - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with Marina Unterfosthuber

Only climbed the cracked arete final pitch at something like HVS 5a
rockferret - Lead dnf - 20/May/09 with Tony

Phil79 - Lead dnf - 06/May/09 with Jiff

andy_pemberton - 2nd - Mar/09 with Martin Dunning

paulh1967 - 2009

Popkids - 2nd rpt - 18/May/08 with Kafoozalem

RobSteere - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/08 with John Axeworthy

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/08

al led the first pitch.
ebunick - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Fat Al

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/08 with Jez

Popkids - 2nd dog - 09/Feb/08 with Kafoozalem & Nolan

Hidden - Lead dnf - 2008

Justin T - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/07 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/07

Lead 1st pitch.
alaan - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/07 with Connor

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/07

HArd Work
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/07 with Nik Goile

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

climber sim - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/06

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 31/May/06 with karing

leadmat - Lead - 2006

leadmat - 2006

feilx - 2005

And again 22/5/04.
charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/03

Hidden - Lead - 29/May/03

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead - 2002

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jun/00

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Apr/00

Hidden - 2000

NickP - 2000

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 05/Dec/99 with Nic Dill

ChrisJD - Lead - Jul/99

Mickdenali - 1998 with Mark Harvey

colin milton - Lead dog - 14/Jul/94 with eric milton

Shunted
Nigel Coe - TR - 23/Sep/92

Marti999 - Lead - 1992

whispering nic - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/91 with Ali W

sdht - 1990

daviesdan - Lead - 1989

finished up Gideon
Pete Nugent - Lead - 25/Sep/86

Nick Biven - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/86 with Rich Whitwell

davehvs - 1986

Richard Weller - Lead dog - 04/May/85 with Hugh Shinn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/84

Nigel Coe - Lead - 19/Nov/83 with Norman Wright

Hidden - Lead - 1981

mark-abz - 2nd - 26/Apr/80 with Brian W

Hidden - 1979

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1978 with Dave Greenald

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
twotter, Hidden, hutchay, Hidden, Hidden, Alan100, OllieF, Hidden, Ben Russell, Hidden, Hidden, chrisweight, thesfg, Graham C, Master Chief, AJH, Dale Turrell, Hidden, petecallaghan, JackHatton, Hidden, chappers909, Kemics, givemetea, grumpyoldjanner, graham knott, Hidden, Jenba*, Phil79, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 80
hard E20 of 29
E20 of 29
easy E20 of 29
hard E110 of 29
E117 of 29
easy E12 of 29
hard HVS0 of 29
HVS0 of 29
easy HVS0 of 29
hard 5b0 of 29
5b0 of 29
easy 5b9 of 29
hard 5a14 of 29
5a6 of 29
easy 5a0 of 29
hard 4c0 of 29
4c0 of 29
easy 4c0 of 29
3 Stars15 of 22
2 Stars7 of 22
1 Star0 of 22
0 Stars0 of 22
Bag of .....0 of 22
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Style of ascent

Lead64 of 137 (46.7%)
Followed29 of 137 (21.2%)
Toproped2 of 137 (1.5%)
Alt Leads30 of 137 (21.9%)
Unknown12 of 137 (8.8%)

'Climbed'50 of 137 (36.5%)
clean O/S58 of 137 (42.3%)
clean β2 of 137 (1.5%)
clean rpt6 of 137 (4.4%)
dogged15 of 137 (10.9%)
dnf6 of 137 (4.4%)