Gideon*** E1 5b
[Martin's first E1, 3 kb]155m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Perhaps the best of the harder routes at the Dewerstone. It features two sustained crack-pitches, each hard to fault. Start as for Central Groove.
1) 5b, 22m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and pull out rightwards onto a hanging slab. Climb the slab and layback around the right end of the overhang. Immediately pull rightwards onto a good large spike, then climb the steep crack above with difficulty to a large bollard-belay.
2) 5a, 26m. Above the bollard is a thin crack. Take this all the way to a ledge beneath a clean-cut corner on Climbers' Club Ordinary. Climb the corner to the top. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Perhaps the best of the harder routes at The Dewerstone. Three brilliant crack pitches, each hard to fault.
1) 5b. Climb Fruitflancase to just beyond the layback move around the right side of the overhang. Pull right on to a good spike and climb the crack above with difficulty to a large bollard belay.
2) 5a. Above the bollard is a thin crack. Take this all the way to a ledge beneath a clean-cut corner.
3) 4b. Climb the corner to the top.

FA. M.Rabley 1962. FFA L. Benstead & D. Morrod 1969

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Martin's first E1 © nolan
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 120 logbooks, and on 29 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Sep/15

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/Sep/15

Great route, both pitches. I led pitch 1 and found out pumpy.
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/15 with Gideon Mordecai

Finally climbed the route I share a name with... Lead second pitch
gidmord - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/15 with John Tanner

Laura Faye - 2nd dog - 11/Jul/15 with Jeremy van Riemsdyke

Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Jul/15

Second pitch only
clubmanpete - Lead - 23/Jun/15 with surf1nal-kern0w

Led the easier pitch 2. I'm not sure I've done a pitch with better gear. Moving into the crack on pitch 1 was interesting.
islandlynx - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/15 with matthew beals

I led pitch 1.
Matt77 - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/15 with Shane

Lacking stamina
Phil79 - 2nd dog - 10/Jun/15 with Steve H

Second pitch only as variation to avoid nest on cc Brilliant climbing and easy for a 5a I would say.
clubmanpete - Lead - 04/Jun/15 with geoffery smith

been putting this off for a while, led in one long pitch without any problems, great route
dbrooks - Lead O/S - 28/May/15 with Gareth

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 26/May/15 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/15

matt_read - 2nd O/S - 20/May/15

brian watson - AltLd - 15/May/15 with scott titt

Hidden - 15/May/15

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Apr/15

Tom F Harding - 2nd dog - 31/Aug/14 with Alastair Begley

Felt pretty hard for E1, fantastic sustained climbing!
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Tom Harding

Went off route from climbers club.... Second pitch only, oops.
OllieF - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Ant

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/14 with Tom Nichols

P2 only after p1 fruitflancase
Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 02/May/14 with Richard

Hidden - AltLd dog - 21/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/14

Lead second pitch
Jevans - AltLd - Apr/14

brew_guru - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with El Peamundo

Hidden - Lead dnf - 08/Aug/13

Only had chance to do the first pitch which Colin Tambling lead (fair play!) as it got too dark to carry on. Rested once after the spike as did not spot the high foot move to take you up into the jug section. Bugger. Looking forward to doing it again when we have a bit more time on the route.
snook - 2nd dog - 09/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 09/Jul/13

shoulders - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with rich smith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13

LDJ - Lead - 02/Jun/13 with Lou

Pitch 2
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 30/May/13

Felt less sustained than fruitflancase.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 23/May/13 with Ian

hornbywill - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

pl- will me- p2&3 linked
Jordon Fleming - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/13

burto - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with hertha

Lewis Stewart - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with John Lynch

excellent, lead top pitch
john lynch - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with lewis stuart

climberkayaker - Lead β - 28/Mar/13 with will hornby

Nick Biven - 2013

willhornby - 2013

Robin Woodward - Lead - Aug/12

Lead P1
Laurence Everitt - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Twigger, Mike Gadd

Had one rest. Should have just gone for it as I had 3 bomber bits of gear. Guidebook is right about he who hesitates is lost!
mark schramm - Lead dog - 19/May/12 with Lyndsay

Awesome climb!
Lyndsay Superclimber - 2nd - 19/May/12 with Mark S

Hidden - Lead dnf - 08/Jan/12

7pm climbing by head torch. Slab was soaked, and crack was pretty hard! P1 for me - P2 and P3 linked by Tris.
El3ctroFuzz - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Tristan Sherlock

Night Climb with headtorch
Tristan Sherlock - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Tom Bunn

p2-melhuish - Lead - Oct/11

Mark Kemball - AltLd rpt - 30/Sep/11 with Simon Hammond

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/11 with CarolineH

1 fall right at the end of the crux (at the jugs-pumped) Excellent route
CarolineH - 2nd dog - 29/Sep/11 with Dave

excellent!!! led both pitches
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Becky E

The slab was okay, then it all went wrong after moving round onto the steep stuff.
Becky E - 2nd dog - 28/Aug/11 with Graeme Hammond

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11

Harder than Fruitflancase but also bit mucky. Led as one pitch. Got sketchy round the central crack after leaving the spike, nuts started lifting out on me! Wot a bugger
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jun/11

tcn_2002 - AltLd - 19/Jun/11

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11

nickdonohue - Lead - Apr/11 with Mike Reading

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Mar/11

Frostie - Lead rpt - 22/Mar/11

David Sherratt - Lead O/S - 2011

not clean. great route, coming back for it when it's dry!
thomb - Lead - 07/Nov/10 with Darren

Justin T - 2nd - 16/Oct/10 with Cherry

Dilwat - 2nd dog - 24/Sep/10 with Nick

Fannyed about in the groove to long and ended up downclimbing too knackered.
jonnyridleylogan - Lead dnf - 30/Aug/10

Great route! lots of fun!
Jack_F - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with Max hodges

_m.cox_ - 2nd β - Jul/10 with Jason Williams, Tom Harrison

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/10

MH123 - 2nd dnf - 04/Jun/10 with Jack Folland

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Mark Glaister

petecallaghan - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/09 with David Coley

My first E1 lead. Have top ropped the first pitch previously, but on-sighted the second pitch. Wedging in and resting in the niche before the crux very important. Very pleased.
rockferret - Lead rpt - 08/Jul/09 with Tony

This was Martins first E1 lead, excellant lead.I managed to second it clean.
Popkids - 2nd rpt - 08/Jul/09 with Martin

Thanks to Pete for giving up his time to let me spec this for the lead.
rockferret - TR rpt - 16/Jun/09 with Pete and Pedro

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Jun/09

First E1 climb. 1 fall at crux of 1st pitch. (Did the moves but Peeled off some perfectly good jugs after too much hanging around! Led 2nd pitch. Awesome climb! Will have to try it again..
graham knott - AltLd dog - 22/May/09 with Nolan

Rock Lizard - 2nd - May/09

cem - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/09 with Graham Dolman

Steerpike - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/09 with Tommo

paulh1967 - 2009

Frostie - Lead - 2009 with various, Roy Harris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08

mike88 - Lead dog - 04/Sep/08 with JAmes Codner

Really struggled on this one.
Popkids - TR dog - 11/Jun/08 with Kafoozalem

RobSteere - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/08 with John Axeworthy

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/08

rockferret - TR dog - 2008 with Pete

sebrider - Lead dog - 2008

Fluffed the crux!
sebrider - Lead dog - 2008 with Roby Rudolf

Tired myself out, unfortunately. Should have been more gung-ho. As the guidebook says, "He who hesitates on the crux is lost." Was completed by a rather hardcore bloke, Toby, who proffered the opinion that it's at the very top of the grade. So that's okay, then.
cmsg - Lead dnf - 12/Aug/06 with Luke Gannarelli

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/06

leadmat - Lead - 2006

leadmat - 2006

feilx - 2005

pitch 2 only
crater - 2nd - 09/Jun/04 with sam

tom.e - 2nd dog - 2004 with Charlie Everett

Gibson27 - AltLd - 2004

Hidden - Lead - 18/Aug/03

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 24/Apr/03 with Nic Dill

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/03 with Myles Jordan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/03

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 2003

cem - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/02 with James Gregory

andy_pemberton - Lead - 2000

NickP - 2000

2nd pitch only, after CCO pitch 1
timreynolds - 2nd - 07/Jun/95 with Steve Taylor

Nigel Coe - TR - 23/Sep/92

kp64zl - Lead - Oct/91 with Simon T

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/91

sdht - 1990

daviesdan - Lead - 1989

Simon cook - 1986

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/84

Steve Bell - 1979

HVS and A1 in those days
RichardMc - 2nd - 03/Aug/69 with Ian MacPherson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
andrewmcleod, EyebrowTom, hutchay, OllieF, Alan100, Phil79, iksander, JonmapDL, Master Chief, petecallaghan, JackHatton, solenostomus, nickstephens, gidmord, Kemics, Homes, stuntsbyjon, givemetea

Total votes cast 58
hard E20 of 19
E20 of 19
easy E21 of 19
hard E114 of 19
E14 of 19
easy E10 of 19
hard HVS0 of 19
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hard 5c0 of 21
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easy 5c1 of 21
hard 5b10 of 21
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easy 5b0 of 21
hard 5a0 of 21
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easy 5a0 of 21
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP