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Gideon*** E1 5b

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[Tom Harrison on 'Gideon' E1 5b, Dewerstone., 4 kb]155m, 3 pitches. Perhaps the best of the harder routes at The Dewerstone. Three brilliant crack pitches, each hard to fault. 1) 5b. Climb Fruitflancase to just beyond the layback move around the right side of the overhang. Pull right on to a good spike and climb the crack above with difficulty to a large bollard belay. 2) 5a. Above the bollard is a thin crack. Take this all the way to a ledge beneath a clean-cut corner. 3) 4b. Climb the corner to the top. © ROCKFAX
Perhaps the best of the harder routes at The Dewerstone. Three brilliant crack pitches, each hard to fault. 1) 5b. Climb Fruitflancase to just beyond the layback move around the right side of the overhang. Pull right on to a good spike and climb the crack above with difficulty to a large bollard belay. 2) 5a. Above the bollard is a thin crack. Take this all the way to a ledge beneath a clean-cut corner. 3) 4b. Climb the corner to the top.
FA. M.Rabley 1962. FFA L. Benstead & D. Morrod 1969

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Tom Harrison on 'Gideon' E1 5b, Dewerstone. © _m.cox_
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 98 logbooks, and on 27 wishlists.

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/14 with Tom Nichols

P2 only after p1 fruitflancase
Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 02/May/14 with Richard

Attempted to lead the first (crux) pitch. Got to the niche about two thirds of the way up and spent some time there, but not willing to commit to the moves above, so got lowered. Graham led the pitch. Led pitch 2 cleanly.
Ant Man Bee - AltLd dog - 21/Apr/14 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/14

Lead second pitch
Jevans - AltLd - Apr/14

Wow!
brew_guru - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with El Peamundo

Hidden - Lead dnf - 08/Aug/13

Only had chance to do the first pitch which Colin Tambling lead (fair play!) as it got too dark to carry on. Rested once after the spike as did not spot the high foot move to take you up into the jug section. Bugger. Looking forward to doing it again when we have a bit more time on the route.
snook - 2nd dog - 09/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 09/Jul/13

shoulders - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with rich smith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13

LDJ - Lead - 02/Jun/13 with Lou

Pitch 2
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 30/May/13

Felt less sustained than fruitflancase.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 23/May/13 with Ian

hornbywill - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

pl- will me- p2&3 linked
Jordon Fleming - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/13

burto - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with hertha

Lewis Stewart - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with John Lynch

excellent, lead top pitch
john lynch - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with lewis stuart

climberkayaker - Lead β - 28/Mar/13 with will hornby

Nick Biven - 2013

willhornby - 2013

Hidden - Lead - Aug/12

Lead P1
Laurence Everitt - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Twigger, Mike Gadd

Had one rest. Should have just gone for it as I had 3 bomber bits of gear. Guidebook is right about he who hesitates is lost!
mark schramm - Lead dog - 19/May/12 with Lyndsay

Awesome climb!
Lyndsay Superclimber - 2nd - 19/May/12 with Mark S

Hidden - Lead dnf - 08/Jan/12

7pm climbing by head torch. Slab was soaked, and crack was pretty hard! P1 for me - P2 and P3 linked by Tris.
El3ctroFuzz - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Tristan Sherlock

Night Climb with headtorch
Tristan Sherlock - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Tom Bunn

p2-melhuish - Lead - Oct/11

Mark Kemball - AltLd rpt - 30/Sep/11 with Simon Hammond

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/11 with CarolineH

1 fall right at the end of the crux (at the jugs-pumped) Excellent route
CarolineH - 2nd dog - 29/Sep/11 with Dave

excellent!!! led both pitches
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Becky E

The slab was okay, then it all went wrong after moving round onto the steep stuff.
Becky E - 2nd dog - 28/Aug/11 with Graeme Hammond

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11

Harder than Fruitflancase but also bit mucky. Led as one pitch. Got sketchy round the central crack after leaving the spike, nuts started lifting out on me! Wot a bugger
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jun/11

tcn_2002 - AltLd - 19/Jun/11

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11

nickdonohue - Lead - Apr/11 with Mike Reading

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Mar/11

David Sherratt - Lead O/S - 2011

not clean. great route, coming back for it when it's dry!
thomb - Lead - 07/Nov/10 with Darren

Justin T - 2nd - 16/Oct/10 with Cherry

Dilwat - 2nd dog - 24/Sep/10 with Nick

Fannyed about in the groove to long and ended up downclimbing too knackered.
jonnyridleylogan - Lead dnf - 30/Aug/10

Great route! lots of fun!
Jack_F - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with Max hodges

_m.cox_ - 2nd β - Jul/10 with Jason Williams, Tom Harrison

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/10

MH123 - 2nd dnf - 04/Jun/10 with Jack Folland

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Mark Glaister

petecallaghan - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/09 with David Coley

My first E1 lead. Have top ropped the first pitch previously, but on-sighted the second pitch. Wedging in and resting in the niche before the crux very important. Very pleased.
rockferret - Lead rpt - 08/Jul/09 with Tony

This was Martins first E1 lead, excellant lead.I managed to second it clean.
Popkids - 2nd rpt - 08/Jul/09 with Martin

Thanks to Pete for giving up his time to let me spec this for the lead.
rockferret - TR rpt - 16/Jun/09 with Pete and Pedro

wolverine - Lead RP - 04/Jun/09 with nolan

First E1 climb. 1 fall at crux of 1st pitch. (Did the moves but Peeled off some perfectly good jugs after too much hanging around! Led 2nd pitch. Awesome climb! Will have to try it again..
graham knott - AltLd dog - 22/May/09 with Nolan

Rock Lizard - 2nd - May/09

cem - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/09 with Graham Dolman

Steerpike - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/09 with Tommo

paulh1967 - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08

Hard!
mike88 - Lead dog - 04/Sep/08 with JAmes Codner

Really struggled on this one.
Popkids - TR dog - 11/Jun/08 with Kafoozalem

RobSteere - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/08 with John Axeworthy

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/08

rockferret - TR dog - 2008 with Pete

sebrider - Lead dog - 2008

Fluffed the crux!
sebrider - Lead dog - 2008 with Roby Rudolf

Tired myself out, unfortunately. Should have been more gung-ho. As the guidebook says, "He who hesitates on the crux is lost." Was completed by a rather hardcore bloke, Toby, who proffered the opinion that it's at the very top of the grade. So that's okay, then.
cmsg - Lead dnf - 12/Aug/06 with Luke Gannarelli

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/06

leadmat - Lead - 2006

leadmat - 2006

feilx - 2005

pitch 2 only
crater - 2nd - 09/Jun/04 with sam

tom.e - 2nd dog - 2004 with Charlie Everett

Gibson27 - AltLd - 2004

Hidden - Lead - 18/Aug/03

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 24/Apr/03 with Nic Dill

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/03 with Myles Jordan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/03

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 2003

cem - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/02 with James Gregory

andy_pemberton - Lead - 2000

NickP - 2000

2nd pitch only, after CCO pitch 1
timreynolds - 2nd - 07/Jun/95 with Steve Taylor

Shunted
Nigel Coe - TR - 23/Sep/92

kp64zl - Lead - Oct/91 with Simon T

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/91

sdht - 1990

daviesdan - Lead - 1989

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/84

Hidden - 1979

HVS and A1 in those days
RichardMc - 2nd - 03/Aug/69 with Ian MacPherson

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Voting
Total votes cast 40
hard E20 of 13
E20 of 13
easy E20 of 13
hard E19 of 13
E14 of 13
easy E10 of 13
hard HVS0 of 13
HVS0 of 13
easy HVS0 of 13
hard 5c0 of 15
5c0 of 15
easy 5c1 of 15
hard 5b5 of 15
5b9 of 15
easy 5b0 of 15
hard 5a0 of 15
5a0 of 15
easy 5a0 of 15
3 Stars9 of 12
2 Stars3 of 12
1 Star0 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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Style of ascent

Lead47 of 98 (48.0%)
Followed19 of 98 (19.4%)
Toproped4 of 98 (4.1%)
Alt Leads20 of 98 (20.4%)
Unknown8 of 98 (8.2%)

'Climbed'33 of 98 (33.7%)
clean O/S37 of 98 (37.8%)
clean β2 of 98 (2.0%)
clean rpt6 of 98 (6.1%)
clean RP1 of 98 (1.0%)
dogged13 of 98 (13.3%)
dnf6 of 98 (6.1%)