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Gideon*** E1 5b

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[Tom Harrison on 'Gideon' E1 5b, Dewerstone., 4 kb]3 pitches. Perhaps the best of the harder routes at The Dewerstone. Three brilliant crack pitches, each hard to fault. 1) 5b. Climb Fruitflancase to just beyond the layback move around the right side of the overhang. Pull right on to a good spike and climb the crack above with difficulty to a large bollard belay. 2) 5a. Above the bollard is a thin crack. Take this all the way to a ledge beneath a clean-cut corner. 3) 4b. Climb the corner to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. M.Rabley 1962

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Tom Harrison on 'Gideon' E1 5b, Dewerstone. © _m.cox_
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 77 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

pl- will me- p2&3 linked
Jordon Fleming - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/13

burto - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with hertha

Lewis Stewart - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with John Lynch

excellent, lead top pitch
john lynch - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with lewis stuart

jackscout - Lead β - 28/Mar/13 with will hornby

Hidden - 2013

Robin UK - Lead - Aug/12

Lead P1
Laurence Everitt - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Twigger, Mike Gadd

Had one rest. Should have just gone for it as I had 3 bomber bits of gear. Guidebook is right about he who hesitates is lost!
mark schramm - Lead dog - 19/May/12 with Lyndsay

Awesome climb!
Lyndsay Superclimber - 2nd - 19/May/12 with Mark S

took a fall on to the peg after pulling round the overhang, busted my knee on the base of the hanging slab so lowered off and abbed down from the top to retreive my gear. Pretty gutted really as it's been on my ticklist for some time.
Mr-Cowdrey - Lead dnf - 08/Jan/12 with chris ridgers

7pm climbing by head torch. Slab was soaked, and crack was pretty hard! P1 for me - P2 and P3 linked by Tris.
El3ctroFuzz - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Tristan Sherlock

Night Climb with headtorch
Tristan Sherlock - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Tom Bunn

p2-melhuish - Lead - Oct/11

Mark Kemball - AltLd rpt - 30/Sep/11 with Simon Hammond

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/11 with CarolineH

1 fall right at the end of the crux (at the jugs-pumped) Excellent route
CarolineH - 2nd dog - 29/Sep/11 with Dave

excellent!!! led both pitches
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Becky E

The slab was okay, then it all went wrong after moving round onto the steep stuff.
Becky E - 2nd dog - 28/Aug/11 with Graeme Hammond

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11

Harder than Fruitflancase but also bit mucky. Led as one pitch. Got sketchy round the central crack after leaving the spike, nuts started lifting out on me! Wot a bugger
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jun/11

tcn_2002 - AltLd - 19/Jun/11

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11

1st pitch was very green and lots of sustained moves. 2nd pitch totaly different, very straight forward.
floss_81 - 2nd - 22/Mar/11 with john frost

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Mar/11

David Sherratt - Lead O/S - 2011

not clean. great route, coming back for it when it's dry!
thomb - Lead - 07/Nov/10 with Darren

quadmyre - 2nd - 16/Oct/10 with Cherry

Dilwat - 2nd dog - 24/Sep/10 with Nick

Fannyed about in the groove to long and ended up downclimbing too knackered.
jonnyridleylogan - Lead dnf - 30/Aug/10

Great route! lots of fun!
Jack_F - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with Max hodges

_m.cox_ - 2nd β - Jul/10 with Jason Williams, Tom Harrison

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/10

MH123 - 2nd dnf - 04/Jun/10 with Jack Folland

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Mark Glaister

petecallaghan - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/09 with David Coley

My first E1 lead. Have top ropped the first pitch previously, but on-sighted the second pitch. Wedging in and resting in the niche before the crux very important. Very pleased.
rockferret - Lead rpt - 08/Jul/09 with Tony

This was Martins first E1 lead, excellant lead.I managed to second it clean.
Popkids - 2nd rpt - 08/Jul/09 with Martin

Thanks to Pete for giving up his time to let me spec this for the lead.
rockferret - TR rpt - 16/Jun/09 with Pete and Pedro

wolverine - Lead RP - 04/Jun/09 with nolan

First E1 climb. 1 fall at crux of 1st pitch. (Did the moves but Peeled off some perfectly good jugs after too much hanging around! Led 2nd pitch. Awesome climb! Will have to try it again..
graham knott - AltLd dog - 22/May/09 with Nolan

Rock Lizard - 2nd - May/09

cem - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/09 with Graham Dolman

Steerpike - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/09 with Tommo

paulh1967 - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08

Hard!
mike88 - Lead dog - 04/Sep/08 with JAmes Codner

Really struggled on this one.
Popkids - TR dog - 11/Jun/08 with Pete Saunders

RobSteere - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/08 with John Axeworthy

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/08

rockferret - TR dog - 2008 with Pete

sebrider - Lead dog - 2008

Fluffed the crux!
sebrider - Lead dog - 2008 with Roby Rudolf

Tired myself out, unfortunately. Should have been more gung-ho. As the guidebook says, "He who hesitates on the crux is lost." Was completed by a rather hardcore bloke, Toby, who proffered the opinion that it's at the very top of the grade. So that's okay, then.
cmsg - Lead dnf - 12/Aug/06 with Luke Gannarelli

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/06

leadmat - Lead - 2006

leadmat - 2006

feilx - 2005

tom.e - 2nd dog - 2004 with Charlie Everett

Gibson27 - AltLd - 2004

Hidden - Lead - 18/Aug/03

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 24/Apr/03 with Nic Dill

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/03 with Myles Jordan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/03

cem - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/02 with James Gregory

andy_pemberton - Lead - 2000

NickP - 2000

2nd pitch only, after CCO pitch 1
timreynolds - 2nd - 07/Jun/95 with Steve Taylor

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/91

sdht - 1990

daviesdan - Lead - 1989

This is when I met Nick. My second couldn't follow so Nick stepped in -- in hush puppies!
Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/84 with Nick Hancock

Hidden - 1979

HVS and A1 in those days
RichardMc - 2nd - 03/Aug/69 with Ian MacPherson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, JonmapDL, Master Chief, petecallaghan, JackHatton, solenostomus, nickstephens, gidmord, Hidden, Kemics, Homes, stuntsbyjon, givemetea, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 37
hard E20 of 12
E20 of 12
easy E20 of 12
hard E19 of 12
E13 of 12
easy E10 of 12
hard HVS0 of 12
HVS0 of 12
easy HVS0 of 12
hard 5c0 of 14
5c0 of 14
easy 5c1 of 14
hard 5b5 of 14
5b8 of 14
easy 5b0 of 14
hard 5a0 of 14
5a0 of 14
easy 5a0 of 14
3 Stars8 of 11
2 Stars3 of 11
1 Star0 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent

Lead37 of 77 (48.1%)
Followed16 of 77 (20.8%)
Toproped3 of 77 (3.9%)
Alt Leads14 of 77 (18.2%)
Unknown7 of 77 (9.1%)

'Climbed'26 of 77 (33.8%)
clean O/S27 of 77 (35.1%)
clean β2 of 77 (2.6%)
clean rpt6 of 77 (7.8%)
clean RP1 of 77 (1.3%)
dogged11 of 77 (14.3%)
dnf4 of 77 (5.2%)