3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The easiest way up the Dewerstone's most impressive wall is a fine series of pitches. The first pitch is serious and requires care. Start on the right of the face at the base of a small gully.
1) 4b, 24m. Climb up and traverse left to some dubious flakes. Move left, using them with great care, then climb up left to an overhanging corner. Move up this for 2m and then make a blind move rightwards, around a rib, into a parallel corner. Move up to a good stance.
2) 4b, 20m. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top and pull out right. Move up to a widening and traverse leftwards using a thin black crack to a good ledge-belay beneath a clean-cut corner.
3) 4b, 8m. Climb the magnificently-positioned corner to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Excellent, varied, climbing and exposure combine to produce a Classic Rock
climb. Poor protection makes this a serious pitch for both leader and second.
1) 4b. Bold. Start at the earthy corner on the right. Climb this corner, and cracks in the wall, to a small niche, and pick up the likely traverse line. Move delicately across,
and up this, to a large flake. Continue into the niche.
2) 4a. Move right, and make a blind move to gain a groove. Climb this groove to belay on a ledge beneath a chimney.
3) 4a. Climb the chimney (Peg). Move up, and out, of the chimney and into a wide crack. Climb this crack, until an airy leftwards traverse leads to a belay, beneath a hanging corner. (As for Central Groove (Pg 13).)
4) 4b. Climb the corner to the top. Or, try the finish to CC Direct

FA. D.Cox 1935

Ticklists: Classic Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Kernow, West Country Climbs.

Hidden 16/Oct AltLd
gary9t9 21/Sep Lead O/S
mjackson 18/Sep -
richardashe 18/Sep -
Lumbering Oaf 04/Sep AltLd O/S

P1 , P3

with Luca
Darrell Read 31/Aug AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 & 3.

adamscottthomas 31/Aug AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

danieleaston 29/Aug AltLd O/S

Saz led p1, I backed off p2 and downclimbed, did not like the no gear V-shaped groove, and I'm glad I did as I found seconding tough. I think I used up everything on leviathan. Led the final 8m crack. Also a squirrel stole my pork pie.

with Saz
saz_b 29/Aug AltLd O/S

P1 and p2. P1 a little loose but not as bad as described but maybe I'm used to limestone! The blind step took a while to commit to. P2 - no peg? Pretty bold chimney and unprotect-able widecrack but good gear to get around overhang. Traverse over black crack was good! P3 layback also fun. Shame a squirrel stole dans pork pie.

rocktickler 17/Aug 2nd dnf
with pete campion
johnrad 17/Aug 2nd O/S

first pitch only

with Pete Campion, Richard Humphreys
Chris Oldfield 07/Aug Lead O/S

found it very bold. No gear for half of the first pitch or the end of the second pitch. Decking and big swings abound.

with Francis Warrick
minty1984 06/Aug Lead O/S

This was a very scary VS!....... those flakes need great caution and gear placement in the 1st half of the 1st pitch needs to be selected carefully. Felt very committing. The blind move around the rib feels very hard until u find the not very obvious foot hold that helps. Great route none the less

Matt1234 02/Aug AltLd O/S
Skinnybloke 29/Jul AltLd

Lead 1st, pete lead 2nd, I lead 3rd pitch direct

soloing 9a with out you looking 10/Jul Lead O/S

fun, scary if you don't know how to crack climb.

with sam
Matt Amos 30/Jun Lead O/S
RobScarisbrick 27/Jun AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1

clubmanpete 23/Jun 2nd

Seconded to alan

Hidden 21/Jun AltLd
Hidden 06/Jun 2nd dog
Skinnybloke 04/Jun 2nd

First pitch climbers club second pitch Gidian, awsome!

clubmanpete 04/Jun Lead

Lead first pitch.. then carried on on second pitch of giddeon. To avoid bird nest. Great recommended variation...

Samuel Wainwright 03/Jun Lead O/S

Sweaty palms on the first pitch! Don't pull on those flakes too hard!

with Emma Smith
jamie ward 21/May AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 and 3

with Nick Donahue
nickdonohue 21/May AltLd

Kestrel nesting mid-way in 2nd pitch - sensitive to our presence. Please avoid....

Hidden 20/May Lead O/S
nickstephens 13/May Lead O/S

Simul-night climbing fun :)

with Jay Jackson
Jack Porteous 16/Apr -
K Farrell 04/Apr AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2, route finding was a bit of an adventure!

with K McKay
K Mckay 04/Apr AltLd O/S

Found the rightwards step across from under the overhang quite committing with short arms. Led pitch 1 & 3.

Mike Bayley ??/2015 -
Mike Bayley ??/2015 -
Big Rog ??/2015 -
Big Rog ??/2015 -
gunnarofhlidarend ??/2015 AltLd

with Richard in 4. led 1 and 3

suds_01 ??/2015 -
BelayBunney 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Nice. Delicate on the traverse.

Hidden 14/Oct/14 AltLd
KimberlyJarrad 14/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd Pitch

Will Mortimer 07/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Managed to squeeze this in after uni before the rain and dark. Incredible route with lovely exposure, rope drags an issue but easily sorted.

s.thursz 07/Oct/14 AltLd

great little gem, loved each move, rope drag was huge though!

s.thursz 07/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

great climb, me did the first pitch, will joined the second two pitches together- allot of rope drag, discussion made to find half ropes....

Hidden 05/Oct/14 AltLd
Hidden 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Stanners 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

didn't enjoy the first pitch much at all. Second pitch brilliant though. P1 + P2

with Andy G
CreepingExcellence. 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/14 Lead dnf
beds74 22/Sep/14 Lead

A 'Classic' tick! Wonder if the people who say that the first pitch is well protected actually shoved gear behind the 'exploding' blocks...? Bold first pitch for the grade, the move around the rib/rock over I thought was a strong 4C/5A (done easier moves at this suggested grade) The next pitches were on the button, although the move up the corner/rib on pitch two was top end. If you were/are leading at this grade you may have to slip into your brown corduroy's!! Great climb lot's in it, although I wonder how long some of the blocks will survive...

with Dave Fisher
steven703 20/Sep/14 AltLd
clubmanpete 19/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Absolutely brilliant route....

surf1nal-kern0w 18/Sep/14 AltLd

Pete lead first pitch. I tried again on second. Fearing the traverse black crack. Which was in fact on first pitch!

Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead β
fire_munki 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Rope never tight, Chris did it in two pitches. Ace but exposed.

lcullum7 12/Sep/14 2nd β
SarahA 12/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Merlin 10/Sep/14 AltLd rpt

P1 & 3. Still great. Thankfully no hornets nest.

with Alex Thurstons
Alex Thurstans 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
snook 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Great evening climb - first pitch traverse looked a bit spicey on lead as there is not a great deal of gear - cheers Jack for going first mate! I lead pitch 2 and 3 as one - lovely position on good holds with plenty of gear. Has been on my ticklist for ages so stoked to get it done finally.

francois 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S

I didn't fancy touching the flakes on the traverse. Fortunately there's holds and gear just above them so you can bypass them. Gear was a bit sparse on the traverse but the climbing is straightforward.

with Chawn
OllieF 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

First pitch only, went off route at the top onto the second pitch of Gideon.

with Ant
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd
supersouthward 20/Aug/14 AltLd rpt

Top evening out, all three pitches are lovely, getting a bit green at the bottom

with Lee Renshaw
DCIGadget 13/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Steve lead all of it. Had to take a slightly different line as my rope went left of the roof on 2nd pitch and otherwise a fair pendulum.

John Sheehan 13/Aug/14 2nd
with Mark, Stephen Price
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
LDJ 05/Jul/14 Lead
with Lou
Granitemonkey 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
tobydunford 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr, Harry Martin
Felix Ottey 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

Scrappy first pitch was worth doing for the last two.

callum brown 31/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Hidden 31/May/14 AltLd O/S
Matt Smith 27/May/14 AltLd O/S

P2, great climb, such positive holds.

Dave Mahon 26/May/14 AltLd

Had the crag to ourselves - magical. Great VS but lots of gear in the traverse - not very bold. I led P1 and P3.

with Justin Sharpe
Hidden 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
Piers Harley 03/May/14 AltLd
with Richard Apthorpe
Martin Bagshaw 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
rd20 03/May/14 AltLd O/S


with Peri
Robin Woodward ?/May/14 Lead

Some interesting sections, a bit broken up in places. Just needed to go for it on a couple of the precarious traverse moves as it's all there.

Chrismaccers ?/May/14 Lead
Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd dog
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Paul Hy 09/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Jack G
Jackislav 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Proper job

matt.woodfield 08/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/14 2nd
dmannion ?/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

awesome climb

Alfie Conn ??/2014 Lead
nj.harris ??/2014 -
jamiegee97 ??/2014 Lead O/S
andrewmcleod 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S

In two pitches (p1, p2+3), led all pitches.

twill 24/Nov/13 2nd O/S
cathymiller 05/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

1st and 3rd pitch - Mike (alternative 3rd pitch), 2nd pitch - me

stuieb123 24/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Adrian Daniels 22/Sep/13 AltLd
with John Parrott
LDJ 14/Sep/13 Lead
with Alfie
PaulTanton 07/Sep/13 Solo O/S
rockferret 02/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Richard
Merrick796 ?/Sep/13 Lead
drysori 04/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
felixizzy 09/Jun/13 2nd dog

Pesky fist jams!

Hidden 08/Jun/13 AltLd
ElBarto 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Seconded 1st pitch then lead 2nd & 3rd pitches.

gjh 08/Jun/13 AltLd RP

Led the first pitch, seconded the second two.

will moy ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

p1 of ordinary and p2 of direct.

with sophie
Hidden 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
adamwesthead 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

Lead p2. 6 hour drive to a wedding in Devon. Took climbing kit in hope and by chance met John from London who also brought his kit so got some climbing in! John well hung over :)

Hidden 25/May/13 Lead
Hidden 08/May/13 2nd
mrteale 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Doug miller 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

finished direct by mistake.

Hidden 20/Apr/13 Solo rpt
tompilgrem 02/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Dad
bobpilgrem 02/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Bold - no gear on traverse untill flake. Great route

with Tom
onlyfoddington 01/Apr/13 AltLd

I lead pitches 2 & 3 as one. I had previously climbed much of what I lead on different routes. Still, the v-groove was exciting.

with Steve R
stevorobs3 01/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P1.

Grabtheslab ?/Apr/13 -
Ianhansen ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Heather651 ??/2013 2nd
with Matt
Grabtheslab ??/2013 -
PAJames ??/2013 -
hornbywill ??/2013 -
Bex_M 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Duncan Dunbar
minexplorer 12/Aug/12 AltLd

approx date.i led 1st pitch.jordan led 2nd pitch gideon for change

with jordan
Slick 11/Aug/12 AltLd
Egons Issy 11/Aug/12 AltLd
martin clarke 28/Jul/12 Lead β
stephen ashworth 28/Jul/12 2nd
with martin clarke
Dan1898 24/Jul/12 2nd O/S

A tough climb, with a difficult crux traverse and a particularly fruity crux move over and round the O/H flake without 'barn dooring'.

timreynolds 22/Jul/12 Lead
mreynolds 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Philippa Arding 12/Jul/12 Lead
with jo nosworthy
Alexseren 12/Jul/12 2nd
Jimmykeenan01 ?/Jul/12 Lead

The first pitch is serious but what a great climb

Hidden 19/Jun/12 Solo O/S
Westcorkman 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Berry
Hidden 01/Jun/12 2nd
berry ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with ken
leadmat 26/May/12 Solo O/S
lmacey 06/May/12 Lead
Hidden 02/May/12 Lead rpt
nickdonohue ?/May/12 Lead

1st pitch only - abbed off at stance as running out of time. Quite serious on traverse due to run out and move using flake / boulder that may part company one day.

with Pete Merrick
Hidden 11/Apr/12 2nd dog
wildrover220 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
cwildblood 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd while ed lead 2 pitch, got stuck on crux move on first pitch for a little while as couldnt find handhold crack just round corner once found all good, was lovely climb especially top pitch with lay back

ed2204 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Frostie 01/Apr/12 Lead
Rampikino 31/Mar/12 AltLd

Excellent line with good climbing all the way up. Each pitch has something good about it. No wonder it is in Classic Rock.

with Cat
arandall 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 27/Mar/12 AltLd

3rd pitch

Dilwat 16/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Watched from the belay ledge on P1 as a Squirrel ate through my backpack, then my fleece and then stole my sandwich! Where's a loose rock when you need one (Probably half way along the P1 traverse on this route). Other than that a great climb.

with Dave P
whiteexplorer 16/Mar/12 2nd O/S

excellent climb ,some of the foot holds a bit polished

with SurferStan
SurferStan 16/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Solo rpt
nickstephens 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/12 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead rpt
Tom Seccombe 13/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Forgot guidebook, two pitches, went a liitle high on the first pitch to join up with cc direct at the belay. Then went a little left of the corner up some cracks (possibly gideon top pitch and the final corner of central groove.

with Harvey
Hidden 13/Jan/12 AltLd
beardy mike ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Ian JL ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -
JamesP ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
MBarraclough ??/2012 Lead
Tristan Sherlock 12/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with George Coiley
ian d f 27/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome route! Great weather too, for the time of year. Led 2nd and 3rd together.

with Tim Chulwick
jacko1485 20/Nov/11 2nd
with Callum
aipattison 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic! Took a long time though, should maybe have run pitches 2 and 3 together.

with UBMC
dan ely 08/Nov/11 Lead O/S

hard in wet espec the chimley- luckly theres more gear than you first may relise when looking up at it in horror

with lizzyb
lizzyb 08/Nov/11 AltLd

Slipped on the wet traverse on pitch one - (soft fall) doing route in the drizzle not advised but is fun. Final pitch which i lead previously in dry felt completely different.

with Dan Ely
Hidden 23/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Becky H 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
rustaldo 21/Oct/11 AltLd rpt

quality route for the grade. i did P1.

with Stubbs
carl_123 20/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
trants1 19/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with deklan
deklan 19/Oct/11 Lead
with chris
Graham Westbrook 02/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
JRSB1991 ?/Oct/11 Lead
gidmord 07/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

lead first pitch. Went left after traverse to overhanging corner (climbers' Club Direct). Finished up final pitch of Route B.

with dmoir
Simon Caldwell 02/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1 and 3. The initial traverse was a bit scary but quite steady, I then took ages trying to decide whether to make the rightwards blind move high or low, but got there in the end! Every pitch is top quality, 3 stars surely.

with Carmen
minexplorer 01/Sep/11 AltLd
with dave88
Dave 88 01/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch.

Davebryant 31/Aug/11 AltLd
with Kye Brooks, Bryn Mays
pearson9596 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Howell
Joby 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led all in two pitches, good route, dubious rock quality

with Alice Fuller
Orifice 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Stafford Dyer
nick ferro 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S

didn't like using protection on the flakes, but apart from that - it was awesome!

Hidden 05/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
The Ivanator 27/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

I led P1, tricky moves right out of corner around block to belay, felt 4c to me.

with Rosie, Rich
Rich God 3 27/Jul/11 AltLd
mountaingoatgirl 27/Jul/11 AltLd
with Rich, Ivan
Lauren Davies 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with John Tanner
John Tanner 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Worrying but safe. I led first pitch, Lauren went up the second pitch of Gideon

with Lauren Davies
Hidden 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/11 Solo rpt
will_benfold 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Miles
Hidden 07/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Cheese Monkey 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Matt
rustaldo 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Ben
Hidden 01/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
tomwheeler 25/May/11 AltLd

I lead pitch 1 and 2, Mophead lead pitch 3. Awesome climb! :)

dmaldonado 21/May/11 2nd O/S

1st pitch

Luke90 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Chaman 18/May/11 2nd O/S
with Steve P
FrancescaFord 15/May/11 AltLd

Gosh. Hardest lead...and possibly hardest climb regardless...that I've done to date. Delicate move on first traverse set the tone, as did sticking my foot out around the corner to try and enter the little chimney/crack. Spent quite some time working up to the blind jug, but amazed at how balanced it felt when I finally made the move. Definitely at the top of my comfort zone at the moment, but what a buzz. Made a mistake and shifted onto the direct route (I am told) to gain the first belay. On on up pitch two, more relaxed as a second, but nonetheless exposed compared to most of the climbing I've done. Finished up leading the little "third pitch" (up Route B?). I remember when I first climbed at the Dewerstone I said I'd never EVER be able to lead that. And yet...it is done!! Woop :) And despite it being a bit of a mental rollercoaster...I'd love to climb it again...!

with MN
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Solo rpt
PanzerHanzler 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1

Different Steve 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Andy Hansler, Guy Reid
Hidden 26/Apr/11 AltLd rpt
Hidden 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
jeffb 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Calder 23/Apr/11 2nd
Sean Kelly 20/Apr/11 Lead

Missed the traverse so continued to an excellent belay, then traversed L. to the true route with a very exposed swing around the arete to gain the very exposed (for Devon granite) upper wall and good climbing to the top.

with Harry Pearce
Slick 10/Apr/11 Lead
Egons Issy 10/Apr/11 2nd
markv21 02/Apr/11 -
minexplorer 09/Mar/11 Lead

did the direct 2nd pitch whooo first propper days climbing in ages felt high on the adrenaline after topping out for quite a while

with jordan
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 01/Mar/11 AltLd
tim exley ?/Jan/11 2nd dog

sopping wet but great fun

with pete greening, matt parkinson
brianrunner ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
MHutch ??/2011 -
rurp ??/2011 Lead
bullybones ??/2011 -
Mark Salter ??/2011 -
p2-melhuish ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 2nd
r_findlay 30/Oct/10 AltLd
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Freddie 1 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Andy led first and third. I led second pitch up the chimney.

with Andyh83
jonnyridleylogan 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
WillRawlinson 29/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 14/Aug/10 AltLd
btc 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Susannah Ellis
Pero 01/Jul/10 Lead
Kitiara 29/Jun/10 2nd
andy dunn 28/Jun/10 2nd
with Tom
Hidden 22/Jun/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/May/10 AltLd
Hidden 25/May/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/May/10 2nd
Philippa Arding 21/May/10 AltLd
with LB
Popkids 18/May/10 AltLd rpt

I led the 1st pitch. It was nice to get back on a trad route again.

with Baz
Rob84 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
stuart34 15/May/10 AltLd O/S

3 and 4th pitch, 4th pitch did climbers club direct

Will_Murray ?/May/10 AltLd

i ran the bad boy out

Paragonthewise 26/Apr/10 2nd

rad went up the direct finish (4c) but just a little too much for me so i finished up the lay back crack, fun climb, so delicate moves, well worth the climb

with mineexplorer
minexplorer 26/Apr/10 Lead

finished direct,the correct finish which grant did too boring.what a great traverse in,got to be delicate.

with grant newcombe
tomwheeler 15/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Perm
Orifice 06/Apr/10 2nd
with John Frost
Hidden 05/Mar/10 2nd
mikeburf 05/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Easy but exposed, not great protection on first pitch.

with 1apetus
DOVEY ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 30/Oct/09 AltLd
with Stacey Ward
Homes 23/Oct/09 Lead
with Rach C
sparbus 23/Oct/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/09 2nd O/S
nopants 29/Sep/09 Lead
with EmmaG
Hidden 25/Sep/09 2nd
giknockerpod 13/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
El3ctroFuzz 24/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Kewl. p1 and p3.

with Billy
worklessclimbmore 24/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Joris.Roulleau 09/Aug/09 -
with Nick Hirst
matthoey 07/Aug/09 AltLd
with Brian Usher
John Henry Wynn 28/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with will aimes
Jack Finney 26/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Monkey Alan
Monkey_Alan 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Surprised by a squirrel at the top of the chimney. The peg is very rusty and would probably break if you clipped a large hex to it.

jimorothy 20/Jul/09 Lead

Another tricky traverse. Single rope = awkward belay below bloody ace blind move, top layback crack surprisingly easy.

with Rachel Crolla
RobSteere 02/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with John Axeworthy
Climbing Lizard ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
DanLear 02/Jun/09 AltLd

1st pitch only then up top pitch of Gideon

with Al McPhierson
Popkids 02/Jun/09 AltLd
with Baz
FayeG 23/May/09 AltLd O/S

Second pitch is a bitch! Take a nice big friend for the only protection as you swing out of the crack....or use the very very very rusty peg....or go straight over the overhang bridging...but thats HVS!

with Rory, Faye, Rory
pelvoux 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Alistair
ruaidh 23/May/09 AltLd O/S

one of the best VS I've done. Highlight is the scary two handed swing around the overhanging block on P2.

with FayeG
knthrak1982 19/May/09 2nd β
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/09 AltLd O/S
langar27 05/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/May/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/May/09 AltLd O/S
Ybot Htulk ?/May/09 AltLd
with Norman and Sonya
matthoey 22/Apr/09 2nd
with Brian Usher
Hidden 18/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Sylvi 12/Apr/09 2nd
with Simon
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
mark schramm ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/09 AltLd
JonHarvey 23/Mar/09 AltLd rpt
with Matt Eaves
Hidden 16/Mar/09 Lead rpt
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Lewis Stewart ??/2009 -
with David F
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
tom169 27/Dec/08 Lead O/S


with Justin
Hidden 26/Nov/08 AltLd rpt
JonHarvey 26/Nov/08 AltLd rpt
The_Boy_ODwyer 19/Oct/08 AltLd rpt

Repeat, have now lead all the pitches (did 1 & 3 today)

with Rob
robertporter 19/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with James
@ndy 10/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
JiveWeasel 27/Sep/08 AltLd rpt

I led pitches 1 and 3.

Mrs Weasel 27/Sep/08 AltLd

Led pitch 2. Route a bit tricky- read the description here, it's better than the South Devon guidebook!

Merlin 20/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with Alex Elliot
Hidden 10/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd rpt
joeurwin 29/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with alex
AlexD 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S

first pitch only, then finished direct.

Hidden 26/Jun/08 Lead
Popkids 24/Jun/08 AltLd

Lead the 2nd and 3 pitch

with Martin
rockferret 24/Jun/08 AltLd
with Tony
JonHarvey ?/May/08 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd O/S
Kate Edhouse 15/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Ran pitch 1 and 2 together and then lead the last pitch... too meandering for my liking

with James Clapham
ebunick 01/Mar/08 2nd

had to sit on the rope to remove one bit of gear.... was only later i realised it was in-situ before we arrived :( still got it out mind :) would have been onsighted fine.

with Fat Al
d_meacher 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Trisha Murphy 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S
Popkids 09/Feb/08 -
with Kafoozalem & Nolan
Lois ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Joyce (Crumbles)
Hidden 27/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
Chris Sansum 26/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Weilin Wang
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Disco ??/2008 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
bigbobbyking 24/Nov/07 AltLd

I failed on the first pitch, which caroline then led. I led the second which was also something of a trouser filling experience...

with Caroline
jameswbrae 11/Nov/07 2nd O/S

This route done after attempts by Al on direct. Long with hanging belay - cool! 2nd 2 pitches run into one. A real adventure and great feeling of being by myself, esp. when sun came out over the oak woods.

with Al Franks
Al Franks 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with James Rae
Alasdair88 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with James Rae
Matt Bennett ?/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
Mark Kemball 23/Sep/07 AltLd

Good value in the rain!

with Nic Dill
Justin T 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S

P1 - backed off P2 on discovering hornets nest at top of V groove... escaped up gideon or thereabouts.

with Wifey
cia05js 18/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Lead pitch 1 and 3

with James Bearne
Merlin 02/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Pete Keatley
lithos 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S

p1,p3. (p4 later) behind cara + ms nut, complete with hornets nest

Caralynh 25/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

led pitches 1 and 3

rockjedi12345 17/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

wet first pitch, hornetts on the second!!! great day out

with paddy, phil and nigel
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
gangreen ?/Jul/07 -
Hidden 20/May/07 AltLd O/S
adamscottthomas 22/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

I led 1st and 3rd pitches.

with Mike Maben
Alaric 08/Apr/07 2nd dog
with Malcolm S
IanGilbertJones 18/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
AJH 10/Mar/07 AltLd
with Crispin
peterk ??/2007 AltLd
with Merlin
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
sebrider ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard ??/2007 Lead
The_Boy_ODwyer 06/Nov/06 AltLd

Lead P2

with Dave and Emma
Zoomer 04/Nov/06 AltLd

Did last pitch in full darkness, cacking myself!

with Nobby Clarke
Hidden 17/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/06 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
CraigMac1 ??/2006 -
Phil79 ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Henry
Martin Lilley ??/2006 2nd O/S
with John Axworthy
sam coward 17/Sep/05 AltLd rpt
with Wayne
Hidden 14/Aug/05 2nd
bigie bob ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/05 Lead dnf
Dave Searle 30/Jun/05 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 27/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
crossdressingrodney 27/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
sam coward 25/May/05 AltLd O/S
with Mark
Hidden 20/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/04 AltLd
crater 19/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
ducle 01/Jun/04 AltLd rpt

VS - 4b 75' - 4a 70' - 4b 25' CUMC Summer Meet 2004

with Mike Moss
charlesmfrench 22/May/04 AltLd O/S


with Ian _Haigh
jonnie3430 ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Neil
eddy-on-the-rocks 19/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Ben
Hidden 13/Apr/04 AltLd
tom.e ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Charlie Everett
mike.moss ??/2004 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 25/Oct/03 Lead
with Phillipa Beale
Swirly ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Bourne
cem 20/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
with Sally Dipple
Greg M ?/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
with Rob Macgowan
Hidden 15/Jun/03 AltLd
darren1 ?/Jun/03 -
James B 04/May/03 Lead
with Nigel
Hidden ?/May/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/03 AltLd
Mark Collins 30/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Mark Watson
Samuel P 16/Mar/03 2nd
with Bob
Lev 23/Feb/03 AltLd O/S
with Mike King
Hidden 25/Jan/03 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
VPJB ??/2003 -
rockjedi12345 ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Phil Mathews
Hidden 04/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
DerwentDiluted ?/Aug/02 Lead
with Laurie Smith
Hidden 28/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd
Frostie ??/2002 Lead
with various
AngelaC 29/Sep/01 AltLd
with Geoff
Hidden 26/Sep/01 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
rockjedi12345 ?/Oct/00 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Naomi Walker
petegunn 13/Mar/00 AltLd
with Matt Wilkes
Hidden ?/Feb/00 Lead O/S
MoWalker3 01/Jan/00 AltLd
rockferret ??/2000 AltLd
with Richard
Hidden ??/2000 -
bullybones ??/2000 -
bullybones ??/2000 -
andy_pemberton ??/2000 Lead
NickP ??/2000 -
Steveb27 ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/99 Lead
leadmat ??/1999 Solo
haydng ??/1999 -
Andy Say 25/Aug/96 Solo O/S
five ?/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
with TW
Hidden 20/Jul/96 -
climbingrichard 29/Jun/96 Lead O/S

Dry Dean

Hidden ??/1996 Lead
Hidden 05/Nov/95 Lead
Hidden 14/Oct/95 Lead O/S
timreynolds 27/Sep/95 AltLd
with Rob Crates
Raggar 17/Sep/95 Lead


with roge
Hidden 18/Aug/95 Lead
JiveWeasel 25/Jun/95 Lead
with Kristina S
timreynolds 07/Jun/95 Lead

First pitch only - followed by pitch 2 of Gideon

Hidden 14/May/95 2nd O/S
Babika ?/Mar/95 Lead
with Chris Shaw
brew_guru ??/1995 -

hard 1st pitch,take care!!

Rich ??/1995 -
jim_randell 07/Aug/94 AltLd O/S
with BOC, WW
colin milton 23/Apr/94 AltLd
with eric milton
Rog Wilko ?/Mar/94 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden 17/Sep/93 AltLd O/S
climbingrichard 02/Jan/93 Lead O/S

Cold Dry

brew_guru ??/1993 AltLd O/S
with Pete Veron
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 -
mark schramm ??/1993 -
Andy S ?/Jul/92 2nd O/S
with Dad
rogerskews 27/May/92 AltLd
with Martin Coward
Marti999 ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/90 Lead
Roget 25/Jun/90 Lead O/S
with jim
Iain Thow 01/Jun/90 AltLd

Led pitch 2

with Rob Ivens
sdht ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
DaveHo ??/1990 Lead O/S
daviesdan ??/1989 Lead
leland stamper ??/1988 AltLd
davidalcock ??/1988 -
with Philip Scorer
Hidden 01/Dec/87 2nd O/S
nigehughes ?/Nov/87 AltLd
with Keith Hunter
Hidden ??/1987 AltLd
davehvs ??/1986 -
Richard Weller 04/May/85 Lead O/S
with james eldridge
Mickdenali ??/1985 Lead
with Gail Waller
Nigel Coe 08/Oct/83 -
with Pam Holt
jcw ??/1983 -
with Mike Harrop
Gordon Stainforth 21/Aug/82 AltLd
with John Edwards
Hidden 24/Jul/82 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/82 Lead O/S
PaulTanton ?/May/82 Lead O/S
with Greg Smith
Mike C 13/Mar/82 AltLd
with Chris Davis
Andy Fielding ??/1982 Lead
with Mark Williams
Nick Biven ??/1981 -
uphillnow 04/Apr/80 Lead rpt

Had done before with Rodger Mitchell? when working at Devon O B School 1963/4

with Margaret Smith
mark-abz 02/Mar/80 Lead
with Dave B
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Norman_P_W ??/1980 -
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
tapley 01/Oct/78 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Mike C 28/May/78 AltLd
with Dave Hyde
RichardMc 08/Apr/78 Lead
with Betty Seifert
Shaw Brown ??/1978 -
with cliff brown
Simon cook ??/1978 -
Hidden ??/1976 -
Nigel Bond 01/Sep/73 Lead
with Sandie
Hidden ??/1972 Lead
RichardMc 31/Jul/69 AltLd
with Len Benstead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Davidchatterton, rocktickler, adam84, Michael Aylen, Josh Bratchley, James A.S Read, daviesp2, mreynolds, DanChad, jhobbs, humptydumpty, DaveB61, lem, Hidden, snook, Valentine, Maywood96, Hidden, Chris dyer, SimonMarcYoung, Hidden, Hidden, MartinN, sean123, mike hooper, JackHatton, alexanderjwatts, benlawlor85, ron244, hcaw, perranman, pc1983, crack, Hidden, Hidden, Tom Seccombe, Tenko, willson, givemetea, Master Chief, nic42, Richard Morgan, AsleepOnBelay, cayteye, tobydunford, sleepypete, Ezy Ryder, leonjones, tonymw, Hidden, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
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High HS
Mid HS
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Votes cast 66
High 4c
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High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 66
Votes cast 67
Style of ascent
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