The easiest way up the Dewerstone's most impressive wall is a fine series of pitches. The first pitch is serious and requires care. Start on the right of the face at the base of a small gully.1) 4b, 24m. Climb up and traverse left to some dubious flakes. Move left, using them with great care, then climb up left to an overhanging corner. Move up this for 2m and then make a blind move rightwards, around a rib, into a parallel corner. Move up to a good stance.2) 4b, 20m. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top and pull out right. Move up to a widening and traverse leftwards using a thin black crack to a good ledge-belay beneath a clean-cut corner.3) 4b, 8m. Climb the magnificently-positioned corner to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Excellent, varied, climbing and exposure combine to produce a Classic Rock
climb. Poor protection makes this a serious pitch for both leader and second.
1) 4b. Bold. Start at the earthy corner on the right. Climb this corner, and cracks in the wall, to a small niche, and pick up the likely traverse line. Move delicately across,
and up this, to a large flake. Continue into the niche.
2) 4a. Move right, and make a blind move to gain a groove. Climb this groove to belay on a ledge beneath a chimney.
3) 4a. Climb the chimney (Peg). Move up, and out, of the chimney and into a wide crack. Climb this crack, until an airy leftwards traverse leads to a belay, beneath a hanging corner. (As for Central Groove (Pg 13).)
4) 4b. Climb the corner to the top. Or, try the finish to CC Direct
FA. D.Cox 1935
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Lumbering Oaf||04/Sep||AltLd O/S||
P1 , P3
|Darrell Read||31/Aug||AltLd O/S||
Led pitch 1 & 3.
Led 2nd pitch
Saz led p1, I backed off p2 and downclimbed, did not like the no gear V-shaped groove, and I'm glad I did as I found seconding tough. I think I used up everything on leviathan. Led the final 8m crack. Also a squirrel stole my pork pie.
P1 and p2. P1 a little loose but not as bad as described but maybe I'm used to limestone! The blind step took a while to commit to. P2 - no peg? Pretty bold chimney and unprotect-able widecrack but good gear to get around overhang. Traverse over black crack was good! P3 layback also fun. Shame a squirrel stole dans pork pie.
|Chris Oldfield||07/Aug||Lead O/S||
found it very bold. No gear for half of the first pitch or the end of the second pitch. Decking and big swings abound.
This was a very scary VS!....... those flakes need great caution and gear placement in the 1st half of the 1st pitch needs to be selected carefully. Felt very committing. The blind move around the rib feels very hard until u find the not very obvious foot hold that helps. Great route none the less
Lead 1st, pete lead 2nd, I lead 3rd pitch direct
|Matt Amos||30/Jun||Lead O/S|
Lead pitch 1
Seconded to alan
First pitch climbers club second pitch Gidian, awsome!
Lead first pitch.. then carried on on second pitch of giddeon. To avoid bird nest. Great recommended variation...
|Samuel Wainwright||03/Jun||Lead O/S||
Sweaty palms on the first pitch! Don't pull on those flakes too hard!
|jamie ward||21/May||AltLd O/S||
Pitch 1 and 3
Kestrel nesting mid-way in 2nd pitch - sensitive to our presence. Please avoid....
Simul-night climbing fun :)
|K Farrell||04/Apr||AltLd O/S||
Led pitch 2, route finding was a bit of an adventure!
|K Mckay||04/Apr||AltLd O/S||
Found the rightwards step across from under the overhang quite committing with short arms. Led pitch 1 & 3.
with Richard in 4. led 1 and 3
Nice. Delicate on the traverse.
Lead 2nd Pitch
|Will Mortimer||07/Oct/14||AltLd O/S||
Managed to squeeze this in after uni before the rain and dark. Incredible route with lovely exposure, rope drags an issue but easily sorted.
great little gem, loved each move, rope drag was huge though!
great climb, me did the first pitch, will joined the second two pitches together- allot of rope drag, discussion made to find half ropes....
didn't enjoy the first pitch much at all. Second pitch brilliant though. P1 + P2
A 'Classic' tick! Wonder if the people who say that the first pitch is well protected actually shoved gear behind the 'exploding' blocks...? Bold first pitch for the grade, the move around the rib/rock over I thought was a strong 4C/5A (done easier moves at this suggested grade) The next pitches were on the button, although the move up the corner/rib on pitch two was top end. If you were/are leading at this grade you may have to slip into your brown corduroy's!! Great climb lot's in it, although I wonder how long some of the blocks will survive...
Absolutely brilliant route....
Pete lead first pitch. I tried again on second. Fearing the traverse black crack. Which was in fact on first pitch!
Done in two pitches, nice way to end the day, lovely climb, definitely less strenuous than the Direct! First traverse requires care.
Rope never tight, Chris did it in two pitches. Ace but exposed.
P1 & 3. Still great. Thankfully no hornets nest.
|Alex Thurstans||10/Sep/14||AltLd O/S|
Great evening climb - first pitch traverse looked a bit spicey on lead as there is not a great deal of gear - cheers Jack for going first mate! I lead pitch 2 and 3 as one - lovely position on good holds with plenty of gear. Has been on my ticklist for ages so stoked to get it done finally.
I didn't fancy touching the flakes on the traverse. Fortunately there's holds and gear just above them so you can bypass them. Gear was a bit sparse on the traverse but the climbing is straightforward.
First pitch only, went off route at the top onto the second pitch of Gideon.
Top evening out, all three pitches are lovely, getting a bit green at the bottom
Steve lead all of it. Had to take a slightly different line as my rope went left of the roof on 2nd pitch and otherwise a fair pendulum.
Mark, Stephen Price
Kirsty Kerr, Harry Martin
|Felix Ottey||31/May/14||AltLd O/S||
Scrappy first pitch was worth doing for the last two.
|callum brown||31/May/14||AltLd O/S||
|Matt Smith||27/May/14||AltLd O/S||
P2, great climb, such positive holds.
Had the crag to ourselves - magical. Great VS but lots of gear in the traverse - not very bold. I led P1 and P3.
|Martin Bagshaw||03/May/14||AltLd O/S|
Some interesting sections, a bit broken up in places. Just needed to go for it on a couple of the precarious traverse moves as it's all there.
|Paul Hy||09/Apr/14||AltLd O/S||
In two pitches (p1, p2+3), led all pitches.
1st and 3rd pitch - Mike (alternative 3rd pitch), 2nd pitch - me
Pesky fist jams!
Seconded 1st pitch then lead 2nd & 3rd pitches.
Led the first pitch, seconded the second two.
|will moy||?/Jun/13||Lead O/S||
p1 of ordinary and p2 of direct.
Lead p2. 6 hour drive to a wedding in Devon. Took climbing kit in hope and by chance met John from London who also brought his kit so got some climbing in! John well hung over :)
|Doug miller||27/Apr/13||Lead O/S||
finished direct by mistake.
Bold - no gear on traverse untill flake. Great route
approx date.i led 1st pitch.jordan led 2nd pitch gideon for change
|martin clarke||28/Jul/12||Lead β|
A tough climb, with a difficult crux traverse and a particularly fruity crux move over and round the O/H flake without 'barn dooring'.
The first pitch is serious but what a great climb
1st pitch only - abbed off at stance as running out of time. Quite serious on traverse due to run out and move using flake / boulder that may part company one day.
Lead 1st and 3rd while ed lead 2 pitch, got stuck on crux move on first pitch for a little while as couldnt find handhold crack just round corner once found all good, was lovely climb especially top pitch with lay back
Excellent line with good climbing all the way up. Each pitch has something good about it. No wonder it is in Classic Rock.
Watched from the belay ledge on P1 as a Squirrel ate through my backpack, then my fleece and then stole my sandwich! Where's a loose rock when you need one (Probably half way along the P1 traverse on this route). Other than that a great climb.
excellent climb ,some of the foot holds a bit polished
|Tom Seccombe||13/Jan/12||Lead O/S||
Forgot guidebook, two pitches, went a liitle high on the first pitch to join up with cc direct at the belay. Then went a little left of the corner up some cracks (possibly gideon top pitch and the final corner of central groove.
|Tristan Sherlock||12/Dec/11||Lead O/S||
|ian d f||27/Nov/11||AltLd O/S||
Awesome route! Great weather too, for the time of year. Led 2nd and 3rd together.
Fantastic! Took a long time though, should maybe have run pitches 2 and 3 together.
|dan ely||08/Nov/11||Lead O/S||
hard in wet espec the chimley- luckly theres more gear than you first may relise when looking up at it in horror
Slipped on the wet traverse on pitch one - (soft fall) doing route in the drizzle not advised but is fun. Final pitch which i lead previously in dry felt completely different.
|Becky H||23/Oct/11||Lead O/S|
quality route for the grade. i did P1.
|Graham Westbrook||02/Oct/11||AltLd O/S|
lead first pitch. Went left after traverse to overhanging corner (climbers' Club Direct). Finished up final pitch of Route B.
|Simon Caldwell||02/Sep/11||AltLd O/S||
I led pitches 1 and 3. The initial traverse was a bit scary but quite steady, I then took ages trying to decide whether to make the rightwards blind move high or low, but got there in the end! Every pitch is top quality, 3 stars surely.
|Dave 88||01/Sep/11||AltLd O/S||
Lead 2nd pitch.
Kye Brooks, Bryn Mays
Led all in two pitches, good route, dubious rock quality
|nick ferro||05/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
didn't like using protection on the flakes, but apart from that - it was awesome!
|The Ivanator||27/Jul/11||AltLd O/S||
I led P1, tricky moves right out of corner around block to belay, felt 4c to me.
|Rich God 3||27/Jul/11||AltLd|
|Lauren Davies||02/Jul/11||AltLd O/S||
|John Tanner||02/Jul/11||AltLd O/S||
Worrying but safe. I led first pitch, Lauren went up the second pitch of Gideon
|Cheese Monkey||04/Jun/11||AltLd O/S|
I lead pitch 1 and 2, Mophead lead pitch 3. Awesome climb! :)
Gosh. Hardest lead...and possibly hardest climb regardless...that I've done to date. Delicate move on first traverse set the tone, as did sticking my foot out around the corner to try and enter the little chimney/crack. Spent quite some time working up to the blind jug, but amazed at how balanced it felt when I finally made the move. Definitely at the top of my comfort zone at the moment, but what a buzz. Made a mistake and shifted onto the direct route (I am told) to gain the first belay. On on up pitch two, more relaxed as a second, but nonetheless exposed compared to most of the climbing I've done. Finished up leading the little "third pitch" (up Route B?). I remember when I first climbed at the Dewerstone I said I'd never EVER be able to lead that. And yet...it is done!! Woop :) And despite it being a bit of a mental rollercoaster...I'd love to climb it again...!
Guy, Steve Culverhouse
|Different Steve||28/Apr/11||AltLd O/S||
Andy Hansler, Guy Reid
Missed the traverse so continued to an excellent belay, then traversed L. to the true route with a very exposed swing around the arete to gain the very exposed (for Devon granite) upper wall and good climbing to the top.
did the direct 2nd pitch whooo first propper days climbing in ages felt high on the adrenaline after topping out for quite a while
|tim exley||?/Jan/11||2nd dog||
sopping wet but great fun
pete greening, matt parkinson
|Freddie 1||01/Sep/10||AltLd O/S||
Andy led first and third. I led second pitch up the chimney.
I led the 1st pitch. It was nice to get back on a trad route again.
3 and 4th pitch, 4th pitch did climbers club direct
i ran the bad boy out
rad went up the direct finish (4c) but just a little too much for me so i finished up the lay back crack, fun climb, so delicate moves, well worth the climb
finished direct,the correct finish which grant did too boring.what a great traverse in,got to be delicate.
Easy but exposed, not great protection on first pitch.
Kewl. p1 and p3.
|John Henry Wynn||28/Jul/09||AltLd O/S||
|Jack Finney||26/Jul/09||2nd O/S||
Surprised by a squirrel at the top of the chimney. The peg is very rusty and would probably break if you clipped a large hex to it.
Another tricky traverse. Single rope = awkward belay below bloody ace blind move, top layback crack surprisingly easy.
|Climbing Lizard||?/Jul/09||Lead O/S|
1st pitch only then up top pitch of Gideon
Second pitch is a bitch! Take a nice big friend for the only protection as you swing out of the crack....or use the very very very rusty peg....or go straight over the overhang bridging...but thats HVS!
Rory, Faye, Rory
one of the best VS I've done. Highlight is the scary two handed swing around the overhanging block on P2.
Norman and Sonya
|mark schramm||?/Apr/09||Lead O/S|
Repeat, have now lead all the pitches (did 1 & 3 today)
I led pitches 1 and 3.
Led pitch 2. Route a bit tricky- read the description here, it's better than the South Devon guidebook!
first pitch only, then finished direct.
Lead the 2nd and 3 pitch
|Kate Edhouse||15/Apr/08||Lead O/S||
Ran pitch 1 and 2 together and then lead the last pitch... too meandering for my liking
had to sit on the rope to remove one bit of gear.... was only later i realised it was in-situ before we arrived :( still got it out mind :) would have been onsighted fine.
|Trisha Murphy||10/Feb/08||2nd O/S|
Kafoozalem & Nolan
Sarah Joyce (Crumbles)
|Chris Sansum||26/Jan/08||Lead O/S||
I failed on the first pitch, which caroline then led. I led the second which was also something of a trouser filling experience...
This route done after attempts by Al on direct. Long with hanging belay - cool! 2nd 2 pitches run into one. A real adventure and great feeling of being by myself, esp. when sun came out over the oak woods.
|Al Franks||11/Nov/07||Lead O/S||
|Matt Bennett||?/Nov/07||AltLd O/S|
Good value in the rain!
|Justin T||22/Sep/07||Lead O/S||
P1 - backed off P2 on discovering hornets nest at top of V groove... escaped up gideon or thereabouts.
Lead pitch 1 and 3
p1,p3. (p4 later) behind cara + ms nut, complete with hornets nest
led pitches 1 and 3
I led 1st and 3rd pitches.
Dave and Emma
Did last pitch in full darkness, cacking myself!
|Martin Lilley||??/2006||2nd O/S||
|sam coward||17/Sep/05||AltLd rpt||
|bigie bob||?/Aug/05||Lead O/S|
|Dave Searle||30/Jun/05||Lead O/S|
|victim of mathematics||27/Jun/05||AltLd O/S|
|sam coward||25/May/05||AltLd O/S||
VS - 4b 75' - 4a 70' - 4b 25' CUMC Summer Meet 2004
|Greg M||?/Jul/03||AltLd O/S||
|Mark Collins||30/Mar/03||Lead O/S||
|Andy Say||25/Aug/96||Solo O/S|
First pitch only - followed by pitch 2 of Gideon
hard 1st pitch,take care!!
|Andy S||?/Jul/92||2nd O/S|
Led pitch 2
|Richard Weller||04/May/85||Lead O/S||
Had done before with Rodger Mitchell? when working at Devon O B School 1963/4