Cyclops* HVS 5a
[Glad to be past the crux on 2nd pitch of 'Cyclops' HVS4c/5a, Dewerstone., 2 kb]2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The top pitch takes the rounded crack in the centre of Needle Buttress' upper wall. Start on the mossy slabs with a small wilting tree at 5m.
1) 4c, 22m. Climb the slab right of the tree to a block beneath a steeper wall with a thin left-leaning crack. Follow this and the wall and cracks above to belay on the left-hand tree.
2) 5a, 14m. Take the rounded crack on the headwall to a tricky move right. Move up and right to a groove that leads to the summit. © ROCKFAX

FA. F. Cannings, B.Shackleton 1964

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Glad to be past the crux on 2nd pitch of 'Cyclops' HVS4c/5a, Dewerstone. © graham knott
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 86 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

twill - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/15 with Will Hartz

katherinesydney - TR O/S - 16/Aug/15 with neil morbey

Lead pitch 1, it felt pretty bold. Small gear (0.25-0.5 cam and poor rock 1) is possible at first horizontal break after end of rising traverse which makes things feel a bit less bold. Good route.
Phil79 - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/15 with Steve H

Led P1, Stephen led P2. After a bit of a mossy start this is a nice route. P1 is a bit like climbing on gritstone i.e. rounded holds. Not much gear on P1.
crispycodd - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/15 with Stephen Venables

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/15

Lead second pitch
clubmanpete - AltLd - 21/May/15 with surf1nal-kern0w

Climbed in one pitch
Jackislav - Lead O/S - 27/Jan/15

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 10/Jul/14

I did 2nd pitch - found tough to place gear just before crux. 1st pitch quite sustained and run out in the middle - good lead Paul!
callum brown - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Paul

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14

Piers Harley - AltLd - 03/May/14 with Richard Apthorpe

Lead the first pitch then we finished off doing the second pitch of the camel.
stephen ashworth - Lead - 12/Apr/14 with Ian hendy

Hidden - Lead - 17/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Mar/14

Hidden - 2014

stevorobs3 - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jun/13

nickstephens - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13 with Gareth Greeves

gg4419 - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13 with Nick Stephens

LDJ - Lead - 20/Apr/13 with Lou

Quality route, really enjoyed it. Lead first pitch after partner retreated from the damp headwall. Lovely moves up. Really enjoyed the traverse out right on p2, as soon as you commit it seems impossible to reach the arete, but just keep on going and you'll get there!
Cheese Monkey - Lead β - 10/Dec/12 with Iain

Westcorkman - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Bob Dawson

lead first pitch
martin clarke - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/12 with steve ashworth

stephen ashworth - AltLd - 01/Jun/12 with martin clarke

Underwhelming and overgraded and would get VS in Bosigran! Pitch 1 was ok (led by Chris) and P2 was very easy and shortlived. One star is pushing it for this route.
francois - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Chris

I lead P1, Fx lead P2
BelayBunney - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Catherine, Francois

joedou - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Edmund morris

superb, shame it not longer. ran it out slightly on second pitch. straightforward but probably 5a.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with joe

MinHazeldine - 2nd - 23/Sep/11

led 1st pitch dave 2nd pitch.this has got to be the best route on the crag.serious stuff
minexplorer - AltLd - 02/Sep/11 with dave88

Great route. Balancy 1st pitch. I lead 2nd pitch and had beta on a crucial hold, hence don't feel right claiming the O/S.
Dave 88 - AltLd β - 02/Sep/11 with minexplorer

Great lead by richard. Tough gear. The 4c move on the first pitch felt tougher than the 5a on the second.
kiwi boy - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with richard williams

lead 1st was good climbing on flat holds.
Jordon Fleming - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/11 with minexplorer

jordan 1st pitch me 2nd lovely bold climb great moves at top
minexplorer - AltLd - 25/Jul/11 with jordan

Lauren Davies - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with John Tanner

One move wonder! Approached via first pitch of Needle Arete
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Lauren Davies

nickdonohue - Lead - Jul/11 with Pete Merrick

I only led the first pitch on this.
waydan - AltLd dnf - Jun/11 with El Swiftos

Did pitch 1, started to rain, abbed off.
nickdonohue - Lead dnf - Jun/11 with Pete Merrick

lead first pitch, very run out in the middle.
r_findlay - AltLd dnf - 31/May/11 with Eddie Wilks, stu_buchan43

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 31/May/11

A quality route as an onsight with no beta. The start was very mossy and required gardening to reveal a small crack in order to protect the first slab. It took me a while to figure out the likely route up the steep wall above the slab on the first pitch. Delightful climbing from this point on, all the way past the airy crux on the second pitch. Fabulous setting to belay from as the sun set.
petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 18/May/11 with Emma Grant

Hidden - 2nd - 18/May/11

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Kirsty Kerr

CptRicActiv - Lead β - 2011

because of the run outs i practiced the moves beforehand self belaying with a gri gri.v satisfying lead quite technical moves on top pitch delicate on 1st pitch
minexplorer - Lead - 13/Aug/10

Homes - AltLd - 23/Jul/10 with Jonny C

jcook1980 - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Luke Holmes

luke sherratt - 2nd - 13/Jul/10

DanLear - AltLd - 25/Aug/09 with Al McPhierson

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Bish

I climbed the 1st pitch.
Popkids - AltLd O/S - 03/May/09 with Baz

First pitch. One fall. Run-out in a couple of places! Seriously good glimb!
graham knott - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Phil Webber

Lovely moves on P2. Great climb. Peg mentioned in guide no longer there, although pro is fine without.
Phil79 - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Graham

mreynolds - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/08

Pitch 1 only
timreynolds - Lead dnf - 26/Jul/08 with Matt Reynolds

brilliant. great (if scary) run outs on both pitches, probably best route on buttress
JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 27/May/08 with Jay Jackson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/May/08

first pitch
nutcracker - Lead - May/08 with Field

Kirill - 2nd - 09/Apr/07 with Graham Dolman, Charles Moreton

cem - 2nd - 09/Apr/07 with Graham Dolman

Tim Steward - AltLd rpt - 11/Nov/06 with Torran Elson

Grand central station ledge got abit busy at the end of first pitch!
ducle - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/06 with Nick Shuttleworth

zcapxa5 - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/06 with Dave Ross

Peter Swift - 2nd - 06/Aug/06 with john.w

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/06

leadmat - Lead - 2006

leadmat - 2006

First pitch felt pretty unprotected, didn't feel confident to do second pitch
PenJD - Lead dnf - 03/Jun/02 with Lianna Scholes

Hidden - Lead - 01/May/02

Frostie - Lead - 2002 with various

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/01

andy_pemberton - Lead - 2000

The day that we had to see a man have a bad fall on fry on the wall. Lee
climbingrichard - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/96

timreynolds - AltLd - 11/Oct/95 with John Burnip

JiveWeasel - 25/Jun/95 with Creaky

lead p2
colin milton - AltLd - 19/Jul/94 with eric milton

1st pitch only
climbingrichard - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/94

Marti999 - Lead - 1992

Nigel Coe - 1991 with Norman Wright

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/90

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/83

Steve Bell - 1979

Simon cook - Aug/76

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
James A.S Read, EyebrowTom, kim.mulji, adam84, Alan100, callum brown, Dilwat, MrWiggles, hcaw

Total votes cast 43
hard E10 of 15
E10 of 15
easy E10 of 15
hard HVS1 of 15
HVS11 of 15
easy HVS2 of 15
hard VS1 of 15
VS0 of 15
easy VS0 of 15
hard 5b0 of 15
5b0 of 15
easy 5b0 of 15
hard 5a0 of 15
5a12 of 15
easy 5a1 of 15
hard 4c2 of 15
4c0 of 15
easy 4c0 of 15
3 Stars0 of 13
2 Stars8 of 13
1 Star5 of 13
0 Stars0 of 13
Bag of .....0 of 13
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat