2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The top pitch takes the rounded crack in the centre of Needle Buttress' upper wall. Start on the mossy slabs with a small wilting tree at 5m.
1) 4c, 22m. Climb the slab right of the tree to a block beneath a steeper wall with a thin left-leaning crack. Follow this and the wall and cracks above to belay on the left-hand tree.
2) 5a, 14m. Take the rounded crack on the headwall to a tricky move right. Move up and right to a groove that leads to the summit. © Rockfax

FA. F. Cannings, B.Shackleton 1964

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs.

Hidden 21/Nov 2nd
twill 01/Sep AltLd O/S
Hartz 01/Sep AltLd

Lead first Pitch, then moved onto last pitch of Needle Arete (VD)

with twill
katherinesydney 16/Aug TR O/S
with neil morbey
Phil79 08/Jul AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1, it felt pretty bold. Small gear (0.25-0.5 cam and poor rock 1) is possible at first horizontal break after end of rising traverse which makes things feel a bit less bold. Good route.

with Steve H
crispycodd 30/Jun AltLd O/S

Led P1, Stephen led P2. After a bit of a mossy start this is a nice route. P1 is a bit like climbing on gritstone i.e. rounded holds. Not much gear on P1.

Hidden 30/May Lead O/S
clubmanpete 21/May AltLd

Lead second pitch

Jackislav 27/Jan Lead O/S

Climbed in one pitch

Hidden 10/Jul/14 2nd dnf
callum brown 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

I did 2nd pitch - found tough to place gear just before crux. 1st pitch quite sustained and run out in the middle - good lead Paul!

with Paul
Hidden 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
Piers Harley 03/May/14 AltLd
with Richard Apthorpe
stephen ashworth 12/Apr/14 Lead

Lead the first pitch then we finished off doing the second pitch of the camel.

with Ian hendy
Hidden 17/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 13/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden ??/2014 -
stevorobs3 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 AltLd
nickstephens 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
gg4419 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
LDJ 20/Apr/13 Lead
with Lou
Cheese Monkey 10/Dec/12 Lead β

Quality route, really enjoyed it. Lead first pitch after partner retreated from the damp headwall. Lovely moves up. Really enjoyed the traverse out right on p2, as soon as you commit it seems impossible to reach the arete, but just keep on going and you'll get there!

with Iain
Westcorkman 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Bob Dawson
martin clarke 01/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

lead first pitch

stephen ashworth 01/Jun/12 AltLd
with martin clarke
francois 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Underwhelming and overgraded and would get VS in Bosigran! Pitch 1 was ok (led by Chris) and P2 was very easy and shortlived. One star is pushing it for this route.

with Chris
BelayBunney 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

I lead P1, Fx lead P2

joedou 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Ed morris 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

superb, shame it not longer. ran it out slightly on second pitch. straightforward but probably 5a.

with joe
MinHazeldine 23/Sep/11 2nd
minexplorer 02/Sep/11 AltLd

led 1st pitch dave 2nd pitch.this has got to be the best route on the crag.serious stuff

with dave88
Dave 88 02/Sep/11 AltLd β

Great route. Balancy 1st pitch. I lead 2nd pitch and had beta on a crucial hold, hence don't feel right claiming the O/S.

kiwi boy 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Great lead by richard. Tough gear. The 4c move on the first pitch felt tougher than the 5a on the second.

with richard williams
Jordon Fleming 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

lead 1st was good climbing on flat holds.

minexplorer 25/Jul/11 AltLd

jordan 1st pitch me 2nd lovely bold climb great moves at top

with jordan
Lauren Davies 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with John Tanner
John Tanner 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

One move wonder! Approached via first pitch of Needle Arete

with Lauren Davies
nickdonohue ?/Jul/11 Lead
with Pete Merrick
waydan ?/Jun/11 AltLd dnf

I only led the first pitch on this.

nickdonohue ?/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Did pitch 1, started to rain, abbed off.

with Pete Merrick
r_findlay 31/May/11 AltLd dnf

lead first pitch, very run out in the middle.

with Eddie Wilks, stu_buchan43
Hidden 31/May/11 AltLd dnf
petecallaghan 18/May/11 Lead O/S

A quality route as an onsight with no beta. The start was very mossy and required gardening to reveal a small crack in order to protect the first slab. It took me a while to figure out the likely route up the steep wall above the slab on the first pitch. Delightful climbing from this point on, all the way past the airy crux on the second pitch. Fabulous setting to belay from as the sun set.

with Emma Grant
Hidden 18/May/11 2nd
tobydunford 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
CptRicActiv ??/2011 Lead β
minexplorer 13/Aug/10 Lead

because of the run outs i practiced the moves beforehand self belaying with a gri gri.v satisfying lead quite technical moves on top pitch delicate on 1st pitch

Homes 23/Jul/10 AltLd
with Jonny C
jcook1980 23/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
luke sherratt 13/Jul/10 2nd
DanLear 25/Aug/09 AltLd
with Al McPhierson
Steerpike 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Bish
Popkids 03/May/09 AltLd O/S

I climbed the 1st pitch.

with Baz
graham knott 22/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

First pitch. One fall. Run-out in a couple of places! Seriously good glimb!

with Phil Webber
Phil79 22/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Lovely moves on P2. Great climb. Peg mentioned in guide no longer there, although pro is fine without.

with Graham
mreynolds 26/Jul/08 2nd O/S
timreynolds 26/Jul/08 Lead dnf

Pitch 1 only

JonHarvey 27/May/08 AltLd O/S

brilliant. great (if scary) run outs on both pitches, probably best route on buttress

Hidden 27/May/08 AltLd O/S
nutcracker ?/May/08 Lead

first pitch

with Field
Kirill 09/Apr/07 2nd
cem 09/Apr/07 2nd
Tim Steward 11/Nov/06 AltLd rpt
with Torran Elson
ducle 12/Aug/06 2nd O/S

Grand central station ledge got abit busy at the end of first pitch!

with Nick Shuttleworth
zcapxa5 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Dave Ross
Peter Swift 06/Aug/06 2nd
with john.w
Hidden 14/May/06 Lead O/S
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
leadmat ??/2006 -
PenJD 03/Jun/02 Lead dnf

First pitch felt pretty unprotected, didn't feel confident to do second pitch

Hidden 01/May/02 Lead
Frostie ??/2002 Lead
with various
Hidden ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ??/2000 Lead
climbingrichard 08/Aug/96 Lead O/S

The day that we had to see a man have a bad fall on fry on the wall. Lee

timreynolds 11/Oct/95 AltLd
with John Burnip
JiveWeasel 25/Jun/95 -
with Creaky
colin milton 19/Jul/94 AltLd

lead p2

with eric milton
climbingrichard 10/Jul/94 Lead O/S

1st pitch only

Marti999 ??/1992 Lead
Nigel Coe ??/1991 -
with Norman Wright
Hidden 04/Mar/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/83 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Simon cook ?/Aug/76 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
James A.S Read, EyebrowTom, Hidden, kim.mulji, Hidden, adam84, Alan100, callum brown, Hidden, Dilwat, MrWiggles, hcaw, Hidden
High E1
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Style of ascent
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