Pembrokeshire > Carreg-y-Barcud >
 
Ethos** HVS 5a

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[Moving up the balancy crack on Ethos, 3 kb]30m. A fine crack climb which is well worth seeking out. Start up the lower wall at a vertical sentry-box of a crack. Climb the lower crack to a large ledge (optional stance if the sea threatens). The substance of the climb is the fine slanting crack above, follow this throughout and belay well back on a stake. © ROCKFAX
FA. M.Harber, G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 1985

Photo: Moving up the balancy crack on Ethos © ianstevens
View all 16 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 240 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

Bit awkward due to slant
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Andy C

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/May/13

jimbonfire - Lead O/S - 06/May/13

Curly Rich - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with GMC Steve W

RFWilkie - 2nd - 05/May/13 with James

theandthem - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Ralph

Scary abseil in along a slanting diagonal line with big seas.
lyneux - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13 with Paul Clarkson

dan ely - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/13 with jon (ukc reading)

ianstevens - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13

My perfect climb, absolutely amazing!
Sol Armer - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/13 with Ian Stevens

samjames91 - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/13

Noticeably harder than Seams the Same (E1,5b) in the slate. Not quite as hard as people make out if can thug your way through shit.
neuromancer - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/13 with Sam Wainwright

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/13

matt.woodfield - Lead O/S - 28/Nov/12

Tom Hutton - 2nd - 16/Oct/12 with dAN, Huw Gilbert

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/12

Last route of the trip, felt hard for HVS, gear and holds not that inspiring, off balance when placing it. Not a massive fan but great line, shame as I thought I'd enjoy it more!
Martin Davies - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/12 with Alice du Preez

A great route and my first proper HVS. Did it at high tide so couldn't do the first part. A bit awkward as the diagonal crack feels off-balance, and I thought I was going to have to rest due to horrendous disco leg! Plenty of gear.
Katherine Ross - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/12 with Emily Darley

in the rain, 1 rest before I worked out how to layback it, once I had done it proved to be an awesome, if tiring, route.
Go_Climb_A_Rock - 2nd dog - 25/Aug/12

dprctr - 2nd β - 25/Aug/12 with Robert Dufton

rd20 - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/12 with David P

Jams Crwca - Lead rpt - 25/Aug/12 with Zoe

pembrokeshirecaver - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Andrew Bladon

ajbladon - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Dickon Morris

Fantastic route, loved the second.
mcglenr25 - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Francis Charlesworth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12

philboy - Lead - 05/Aug/12 with matt g

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/12

sleeplessjb - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with dave wands

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12

Gareth T - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Tim Popplestone

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/12

LukeyG - 08/Jul/12

hotrod - TR - 29/Jun/12

steve.warrington - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Stuart Llewellyn

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/12

mikeyg - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Phil Pavey

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/12

paul horabin - Lead O/S - 18/May/12

steven - 2nd O/S - 18/May/12 with Paul Horabin

dave657 - 2nd rpt - 05/May/12 with Alys

Twisty - Lead rpt - 05/May/12 with Byron Buck

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/12 with Chris Vanderz

melonmike - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Tim

tlmarjot - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Mikey Richmond

Good climbing, but felt as hard as many of the soft E1 at Pembroke though I may just have climbed this one badly in bendy boots.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Pete aka Dad

tomB - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with James Coles

Really good.
Becky E - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Matt Fennelow

max_chan - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Becky PCC

remembered climbing this wall a couple o years ago? without the advantage o the 'lay back'-'sweary mary' was quiet today...more a case of 'sweaty betty'in the sun!
themadbrown - 2nd - 25/Mar/12 with james

Jams Crwca - Lead rpt - 25/Mar/12 with themadbrown

cracking, easy for hvs
r_o_b_h2 - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12 with kyle warlow

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/12

Hidden - 2012

alasdair19 - 2012

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Nov/11

Nice route, sheltered location, not too easy!
vertigo714 - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/11 with Mike Wilson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

AlexD - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Sophie

Sophie Nunn - 2nd rpt - 30/Sep/11 with Alex

Ali - Sep/11 with Ralph

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11

Jim Malo - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Liv, Barry

WalnutHorse - 2nd - 28/Aug/11

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with jim, liv_the_div

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/11

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/11 with Jess P, Mike Thomas

mikecollins - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/11 with Laura D

Caspar - 2nd - 10/Aug/11 with Simon Reynolds

scorpia97 - Lead rpt - 10/Aug/11 with Caspian

Hidden - Lead - 09/Aug/11

jossjones - Lead O/S - Aug/11

Spectacular route with great climbing. Mostly went for feet in crack, which was relaxing but made gear placement a bit fiddly!
jonny taylor - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Andy B

ablackett - 2nd - 30/Jul/11 with Jonny

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jul/11

Great route with interesting right trending moves. If your arms get pumped you're doing it wrong. Awesome
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Jon Stewart

Constantly out of balance and looking for a right foothold, got pumped twice and rested on gear. Finally jibbered and dogged my way up it in a shamefull display of punterdom.
teflonpete - Lead dog - 04/Jul/11 with James

keithpeck - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/11

android_lloyd - 2nd - Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/11

Chris M - 2nd - 23/May/11 with Tommy B

spondulix - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Ben

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11

Dibdawg - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Mark Sheridan

One of those routes that's much harder than it looks
lukehodson - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/11 with Charlotte

feilx - Solo rpt - 30/Jan/11

Paul Boggis - Lead - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

jcurley - 2nd dog - 19/Oct/10 with Mike Buddle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10

HIGHTOWER - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Dylan Williams, Pete Williams

williamsd79 - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Aug/10

cat22 - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/10 with Mike

Oliver Sherman - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/10 with Matt Reed

nutcracker - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Mark Barrett

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/10

Andrew Barker - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Cat Black

catblack - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Andy Barker

Good, quite tough and sustained.
Rob Exile Ward - 2nd - 05/Aug/10 with L Edwards

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Will Jones, EeFu Thong

DafSWMC - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Siwan

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jul/10

djprepie - 2nd - 30/Jun/10 with Luis Parsons (aka Hero)

JPGR - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

ian d f - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/10 with Mark

markfromstoke - 2nd - 25/Jun/10 with Ian

Paul Bowen - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/10 with Nicola Brankley, rob jenkins

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/10 with Dominic Turner

I love this route!
Jams Crwca - Lead - 31/May/10 with pete

mynyddresident - Lead - 22/May/10 with Mandy T

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead O/S - 18/May/10 with GF

spacey - 2nd - 15/May/10 with paul evans

Twisty - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Byron Buck

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/10

Byronius Maximus - 2nd - 02/May/10 with Andy Winter

Hidden - 2nd - May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/10

djking1983 - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/10 with Andy Smith

After backing off before the crux (didn't fancy trying to twist to put foot on the obvious hold with a pulled muscle in my side...deary me).
RedFox - 2nd β - 17/Apr/10 with Tom K

Helen Gibson - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Richard

DanH9883 - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/10 with Lee

peggy_on_the_rocks - 2nd β - 09/Apr/10 with DanH9883

Danos - 2nd - 04/Apr/10 with Rich

A little awkward, but certainly not that high in the grade.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/10 with J-Ro

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/10

climbingpixie - 2nd rpt - 27/Mar/10 with Andy Hobson

Sophie Nunn - 2nd - 20/Feb/10

gidmord - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Ben Harper

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 2010

themadbrown - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with james

Jams Crwca - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with themadbrown

benkelsey - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/09 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/09

awesome route,been wanting to lead for a while now and loved every minute of it!
RobRock84 - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/09 with Chris price

Milne - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/09 with dave saxby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/09

cem - 2nd rpt - 28/Aug/09 with Paul Bolton

cam city
Pete Scott - Lead - 26/Aug/09 with Tom Blight

Intelligent footwork makes it easier. tons of gear.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/09 with Ronan Kemp

Ceridwen - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/09 with Phil

Lauren Davies - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Steve Mayer

mark89 - AltLd - 20/Jun/09

mattyork2 - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/09 with Johnny Richard

Hidden - Lead - 25/May/09

Lovely HVS. Harder than the E1 in yellow wall.
brockers - Lead O/S - 25/May/09 with Guido

givemetea - 2nd rpt - 24/May/09 with Gary Wong

garywong - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Roslyn McKendry, Patrick Goodwin

Hidden - 24/May/09

Shauna - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with Jules

Backed down on 1 move, but nice climbing.
MorganPreece - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/09 with Andy Cummings

Mark Salter - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Chris Shorrock

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Mar/09

d_meacher - 2nd O/S - 20/Feb/09 with Owen Tweedy

best HVS i have ever done.
tweedcore - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/09 with Duncan Meacher

I backed off after the first 20 feet feeling uncomfortable. Downclimbed and Simon led it.
Caspar - 2nd - 17/Feb/09 with scorpia97

scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/09 with Paul, Caspian

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 2009 with Mark Oaks

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

feilx - 2nd O/S - 01/Nov/08 with Floris

TiffTiff - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/08

eagleopus - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Martin Skinner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08

Ybot Htulk - AltLd - 31/Aug/08 with Tom Dixon

Sustained but no really hard moves, great route. Lead second pitch
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/08

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/08 with Harry Martin

dave657 - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/08 with Tim

Tim W - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/08 with Dave Ripley

Hidden - Lead - Jul/08

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/08

BenJacobs - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/08 with Nick

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/08

Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 04/May/08 with Sam

sgl - Lead O/S - 04/May/08 with Humble and Chad

Hvs 5a Superb line that will take a much gear as you can carry on your harness!! Very awkward climbing but superb said to have been upgraded E1 5b?
jamie ward - Lead O/S - 02/May/08 with Chris Comrie

jamie ward - Lead O/S - 02/May/08 with Chris Comrie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/08

Ben Harper - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Steven Mayor

alpinebisou - 2008

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/Nov/07

Done as a single pitch and found it harder than I expected
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/07 with Dave J

Only led first pitch after partner cheekily baggsied the crux crack pitch. A fine route, sustained and painful on the feet but pretty straightforward.
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/07 with James

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07

Excellent! ate up all of my cams, a tremendous route
david morse - Lead - 28/May/07 with Stu Corns

Led in light rain. Very well protected. Superb crack line. First short pitch quite tough for 4c.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead O/S - 06/May/07 with Ann Sanderson

givemetea - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/06 with Dave Foster

crag_monster - Lead - Aug/06

Nice sloping crack climb, with lots of good gear. Not quite clean onsight, as I took my first (3 foot) lead fall here.
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/06 with Davey Boy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/06

Great Climb - my first HVS great gear, must have put in about 16 or 17 pieces so was well protected.
joe larner - Lead O/S - Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/06

Mike H - Lead - 30/May/06 with Jamie Smith

ufa - Lead O/S - 20/May/06 with kari

wicked climb, particularly the 12ft boulder problem onto the ledge to the bottom of the crack
beanfingers - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/06 with jeremie

jim robertson - 2006

Very difficult for HVS, and a warm up.
Dave Foster - 2nd O/S - 2006 with Bryn

barni - 2nd - 2006 with james hayward

p2 only
cem - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/05 with David T

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jul/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/04

snowy owl - 2nd - 12/Aug/04 with Robin Goodlad

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Aug/04

al99 - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Nick Record

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

chris wyatt - 2nd O/S - 2004 with gwyn evans

Pulled off a hold and fell
five - Lead dog - May/03 with TW

phardman - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/02 with Teresa

Pete Nugent - 2nd - Aug/02 with Pete Cosgrove

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/02

loundsy - 2001

Tarquin - 2nd - 2001

belay bunny turned bad - 2000

alex_th - Lead O/S - 02/May/99 with Stephen Lumb

Did with my Dad when I was younger. Brilliant route with tough moves, but good protection
brummievet - Lead O/S - 1999 with Neil Palmer

Carl Smethurst - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/98 with Ian Pickles

Hidden - May/98

dickypips - Lead O/S - 1998

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Budge - AltLd O/S - Aug/96 with Brian Ottewell

Colin Edwards - Lead O/S - Aug/96 with penny Gough Brown, Simon Gough Brown

RichardMc - Lead - Aug/96 with Steve Gould

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jun/96

Hidden - Lead - 1996

Rog Wilko - AltLd - May/94 with Geoff Haigh

Tom V - Lead - 15/Apr/93 with Glenn Watson

neilh - Lead - 30/Apr/91 with sara hyde

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 30/May/89

Carl Smethurst - Lead dog - 15/May/87 with Simon Tovell

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, alexanderjwatts, iksander, MikeStuart26, snakebite, jack1996, mullermn, Ross.Cooper, Hidden, Ewano, madeleine, Hidden, dkelly, dansmonkeytroubles, Hidden, Hidden, Tom_Harding, Albie, Dr Caterpillar, groovy_nut, Ropeboy

Voting
Total votes cast 205
hard E10 of 72
E10 of 72
easy E110 of 72
hard HVS32 of 72
HVS28 of 72
easy HVS1 of 72
hard VS1 of 72
VS0 of 72
easy VS0 of 72
hard 5b0 of 71
5b0 of 71
easy 5b12 of 71
hard 5a30 of 71
5a29 of 71
easy 5a0 of 71
hard 4c0 of 71
4c0 of 71
easy 4c0 of 71
3 Stars35 of 62
2 Stars23 of 62
1 Star4 of 62
0 Stars0 of 62
Bag of .....0 of 62
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 240 (0.4%)
Lead140 of 240 (58.3%)
Followed75 of 240 (31.2%)
Toproped1 of 240 (0.4%)
Alt Leads12 of 240 (5.0%)
Unknown11 of 240 (4.6%)

'Climbed'63 of 240 (26.2%)
clean O/S155 of 240 (64.6%)
clean β3 of 240 (1.2%)
clean rpt14 of 240 (5.8%)
dogged5 of 240 (2.1%)