A popular route in a good position. Start at the base of a groove with 'PMP' etched on it.
1) 27m. Climb the groove for 4m, move right and climb the arete to a tree (possible belay). Continue slightly to the right up the next groove above a ledge to another tree in a bay.
2) 10m. Traverse right across the slab to belay in a corner left of the nose.
3) 4a, 30m. Step right onto a nose of rock. Climb round the right-hand side of the nose which leads to the base of the upper slab (possible belay). Climb the slab then step right to a ledge. Scramble off above. © Rockfax
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Sam Ash||10/Oct||2nd rpt||
Shaun Humphreys, UoSMC Freshers
|Sam McCarthy||10/Oct||AltLd O/S||
Bloody brilliant route. Lead all pitches, but strung into two.
As a 4, good end to the day! somehow managed to smash the rope work!
Sam Ashworth, USMC
|Calum Wadsworth||10/Oct||Lead O/S||
Lead first 2 pitches (in one)
Tough first pitch for the grade, ran the 3rd & 4th pitches together, absolutely laced the slab with pro. Really good climb and shows very little of the polish often found on the easier climbs on Bwlch y Moch, infact, little more than I found 40 years ago.
|Mr Fuller||03/Oct||AltLd O/S||
Led P1. Completely brilliant. Pitch 1 a quality romp, P3 an excellent arete.
Sammy R, Ross Brown
Lead pitch 3
M Fuller, Sammi Rogers
|Alessandro Tentori||27/Sep||AltLd O/S||
|chris ginge||25/Sep||AltLd O/S||
what a really enjoyable route
|David Staples||18/Aug||AltLd O/S|
|Dirty Knees||15/Aug||AltLd O/S|
Climbed with Scott and Paul
Slimy start but excellent final 3 pitches
Stunning positions on the top pitches
|Patrick Clissold||03/Aug||Lead O/S||
|Federico Sher||31/Jul||2nd O/S|
|Andrew Lodge||11/Jul||AltLd rpt||
Done in the increasing drizzle, ran P1 and P2 together and then Dave sprinted up P3, just finished before it was really wet.
Linked P1 and P2. Started on P3 with rain fast approaching, felt first raindrop at the peg, heavens opened half way up the slab. Made good time but still totally soaked.
|Half Pint Lizz||02/Jul||AltLd||
Christine led first two pitches together - probably actually of Great Western. I fell off and was horrendously greasy. I led the nice pitch of PMP.
Really enjoyed leading the fourth pitch!! Exposed stepping out in windy conditions
|Paul Hy||27/Jun||Lead O/S||
fantastic exposure on P3
Olly led P1 to just past the nose, I led P2 up the slab and out via chimney. Enjoyed it a lot - although I wish I got to lead P1 :)
Ahh this little route is so lovely! The top two pitches were the best, the bottom is a bit odd (not in a bad way) - climbing through trees, weird. Unreal position on second last pitch. Loved it. Also, this was Jon's first day multipitching :)
|mapperley samurai||27/May||Lead O/S||
Alex Moss, Rachel Moss
Ben and Gav
Weird/cool moves yarding up tree roots on P1. Wild exposure moving onto the nose on P2, puts One Step to shame. Engaging climbing on the upper slab. Great climb overall - something a bit different!
Great Climb! Pitches 1.5 and the traverse and Slab for me:-)
Last climb as a 33 year old :-( Fantastic route although first pitch was a bit wet and slippy. Stitched the Traverse and Slab into 1 pitch.
Lead top pitch
via poor man's peutrey start - first 2 pitches much more enjoyable than usual start up gulley of borchgrevinck.
Tom Lead, climbed with Emily Grout as well
P1 The Quakermen, P2 Awkward corner of Great Western P3 &P4 Poor Man's Peuterey (Led P3)
Lower pitches very wet and seepy this morning. I led the Traverse pitch, John had all the fun! ;)
John R CMC
Last Pitch is the best
|K Dawg||14/Mar||Lead O/S||
Adam, Zoe, raj
Done in 2 pitches, lead 1+2 together. Both sopping wet but still fantastic climbing! Worthy of its Top 50 for sure.
|Dan Geh||14/Feb||2nd rpt|
Charlie stewart, Dan Geh
|tom jefferies||18/Nov/14||AltLd O/S||
Led P1,3 and 5. Good climbing, unfortunately left a number 4 wallnut behind on the nose... Still worth the drive down to Wales
Went off route!
|Matt Harmon||12/Oct/14||Lead rpt||
with two novices (ben and hatty). had only led the first pitch before.
|A Mountain Journey||08/Sep/14||Lead||
After a false start climbing from where PMP is scratched into the rock (might be worth a mention in the guide!) we then possibly found the correct start to the route. Scrappy initial climbing improved a little towards top of 1st pitch. 2nd pitch harder than grade suggests - we stepped right into the groove and followed it to the very top, the exit was nails - 3rd pitch absolutely lovely, enjoyed every move and position, suddenly I was back on a laid back Severe route deserving 3 stars. Descent was steeply through the jungle.
Read an earlier post that noted the different routes for this climb, depending on whether you use the Rockfax book or the Climbers Club guide. Indeed, they are different climbs except for the really lovely arÍte in the last pitch. Wish we had used the CC guide instead of Rockfax.
Lead P3. Great little section on P1, then a nice view on the traverse on P2. P3 was even better. Lovely exposed finish but great holds and great gear.
Lead last pitch
|Neil D||24/Aug/14||Lead rpt||
Lead P1 and P3, after a false start on P1 before the heavens opened and subsequent retreat to Eric's. Then on completion got lost looking for path/descent abseil, finally found abseil, ropes stuck, swam up vertical brambles and loose rock to retrieve them, stuck again, finally retrieved them , then Greg fell 15ft backwards off the path and landed in a pit of brambles. Hard day out for one S 4a. Great route though!
Lead P2, after a false start on P1 before the heavens opened and subsequent retreat to Eric's. Then on completion got lost looking for path/descent abseil, finally found abseil, ropes stuck, swam up vertical brambles and loose rock to retrieve them, stuck again, finally retrieved them , then I fell 15ft backwards off the path and landed in a pit of brambles. Hard day out for one S 4a. Great route though!
P1 and 2 look little travelled but P2 is very worthwhile and tough for S. I suspect most go up the Borchgrevink start which is where PMP is scratched into the rock.
|will moy||21/Aug/14||Lead O/S|
Me and dan simultaneously climbed it. Worth it even though it's severe. Nice exposure over the huge slab and tremadog valley.
Saw PMP graffitied into the rock and decided to move together without recourse to the guidebook. A great adventure with some fabulously exposed moves onto the rib above Silly Arete slab.
Top pitch is a most splended slab FAB
|Dexter JW||?/Aug/14||AltLd O/S||
Al Hadnett, Ash Sleight
|Luke Jones||28/Jun/14||AltLd O/S||
Led p1 & p3
Led pitch 3 which was fantastic (exposed). Didn't do the chimney at the end as it's overgrown.
|Sol Armer||18/May/14||Lead O/S||
Original route/ start. Brilliant!
|Tom F Harding||04/May/14||AltLd O/S|
Led p1,2 together. Nice adventurous feel. Joel led p3 well. Great views of pincushion slab below, discovered its not as blank as photos suggest. Led p4
First time I ever had to build an anchor without sport bolts or a tree! Using 3 nuts and 1 cam after the traverse to belay my partner over was so terrifying! I was nervous on the first pitch as there appeared to be a hive in the tree you use to get up off the ground!
Led P2. Very good indeed, great position and exposure!
Pitch 1, 3 & a contived 5th Pitch up the Chimney. Worth every star.
Climbed in 2 pitches. I led p1
|David Charles||30/Mar/14||2nd O/S||
|Turkey Stephenson||29/Mar/14||AltLd O/S|
Seconding for RCI assessment
Lovely route - a bit slow with two seconds
Steve London, James Waller
Brilliant. Loved every pitch even the Hobbit-like tree roots on P2.
|Double Knee Bar||15/Mar/14||2nd O/S||
Last pitches as an escape from Strapiombo that spat us out.
|Dan Lane||05/Mar/14||Lead dnf||
The Rockfax description for this is wrong. The description for this is actually the PMP/Borchgrevinck combination. I started up the actual PMP (about 15 metres right of where this is described as starting (up Borchgrevinck)) in trainers (Abseild off after about 15 metres and went to do something else). Fairly dirty and not at all obvious. Although this is the original way of climbing PMP, it's certainly not the best. The Borchgrevinck/PMP combination is much better (and I suspect that's what most people do, without realising it. See the current CC description for a properly researched and correct description. Ignore the Rockfax if you want to actually do PMP in it's entirety.
karolinka, Mikey G
In big boots and sopping wet! Excellent fun was had!
Lead some of it my brother hogged the best pitch lol anyway a fun easy climb
|Sam Ash||??/2014||Lead rpt||
|Little Amy||??/2014||2nd O/S||
pitch 2 and 4 lead, walk out after pitch 4, getting dark
|Sam Husband||23/Nov/13||AltLd O/S|
Always a great climb!
|Howard J||16/Nov/13||Lead rpt||
Topped out in the dark. We managed to team up with another pair of climbers - we shared their headtorch, they shared my 60m ropes for the epic abseil by moonlight.
at an adventure; climbed the last pitch at dusk and abseiled with moonlighting. No head torch.
Howard J, howard jones
|Tom Macleod||11/Nov/13||AltLd O/S||
very pleasant climb if you ignore all the trees and roots on the first pitch.
|Matthew Ferrier||13/Oct/13||AltLd O/S||
Some creative ropework going as a 5. Dried out pretty quickly from the shower.
Pushed for time before leaving, so hurried it up by following up first 3? pitches to a slab belay with about 20m slack in the rope, then leading the last two with only a single piece of gear to stop a huge swing after the traverse to the arete.
I lead top pitch
Dave Hayden, Naomi Pimblett
Ridiculous position for a severe. Topped out in the dark
I did P1 and the main pitch 3, Sarah lead a short P2.
in the dark! fri night/sat morning
at night in two and a half pitches on two ropes.
Dawn, Shaun Humphreys, HPC
Night climbing, very cool route
|scott mayled||09/Oct/13||Lead O/S||
Easy climbing , not to exposed as guide book eludes too, although the student didn't think so?
|gordon henderson||06/Oct/13||AltLd O/S||
Pitch three was lovely and varied. A traverse, an arete and a slab.
Chasing the sun afer a miserable day. Started climbing about 5.30, topped out in the dark and then walked down in moonlight and the light from my emergency phone. Interstesting to say the least!
|chris smith||11/Sep/13||AltLd O/S|
|climb the peak||12/Aug/13||AltLd O/S|
|Tommy Moore||10/Aug/13||AltLd O/S||
Led the traverse pitch, clipped the big rusty peg for belay.
|gareth swanson||01/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
very exposed at top
Brodie Jewison, Scott Howie
Led Pitches 2, 4 and 5. Step out onto nose and up the cracks was a lot of fun!
Following the wife, prepping for her RCI.
Me P1 & 4. James P2, Dan P3
james rose, Simon Gladstone
|Alessandro Tentori||15/Jun/13||AltLd O/S||
|Nick Rundall||15/Jun/13||AltLd O/S||
Adam Youd, Jon Taylor
Very nice going around the face.
Amazing route. Gaz strung first two together. I, last three.
|Little B||01/Jun/13||AltLd O/S|
First half wet/raining. First day of climbing course with Paul Poole.
Lead first pitch, lowered off tree
Led P1 and P3
Good easy going route second half has much better climbing.
Pete Frost, Kin Choi
|Skinny Kin||17/May/13||AltLd O/S||
Pete led P1, 2, 3 and 5. I led the best P4. Exciting airy nose and slab for a Severe. Probably only worthwhile to ab down to do P4 and 5. First 3 pitches have too many trees around.
Dion, Pete Frost
|Sam Melville||14/May/13||AltLd O/S||
slightly damp, and then it started raining
awesome severe just shows you that you don't need hard grades to do awesome routes
I led P4 &5. We did the whole route in 2 pitches.
A shorter walk in, and sun and warmth! Some ignorant buggers nicked our belay and and put in an extra one. Once again it would appear I was wearing my cloak of invisibility!
|Thomas Healing||24/Apr/13||Lead O/S||
Three pitches; I lead the "main" pitch though I thought Tim's top pitch was equal in quality. Straight forward climbing throughout though care required due to strong winds/gusts! Worth 2 stars. Shame about the peg before the traverse!
|Gerallt Owain||31/Mar/13||Lead O/S|
|Andy Peak 1||29/Mar/13||Solo||
Nice solo. Love the masive pice of iron mungary next to the traverse
|tim newton||28/Mar/13||Solo O/S|
|Samuel Wainwright||26/Mar/13||Lead O/S||
P2. So good coming out onto the nose, really exhilarating!
|Ray Sparks||28/Feb/13||AltLd rpt||
Sam Hockley, Paul Hazell
|Dan Geh||23/Feb/13||Lead O/S||
Started up the right hand start as in definitive guidebook. Second pitch felt very hard for severe, but may have been off route.
|Daniel Heath||31/Jan/13||AltLd O/S||
Was a little over confident with minimal rack and trainers, scared myself a little.
p1, p3 and p4
|Ray Sparks||24/Nov/12||AltLd rpt|
|Morgan P||23/Nov/12||Lead O/S||
Ran together last pitches as it began to rain
Quite an interesting venue when wet
Rufus, Andy Scott
Nice climb Vwet in places
Managed to run pitches 3 & 4 together without too much rope drag.
Laura AMC, Fred AMC
Andrew "willy" Willson
Rhys Jones, Alan Evans
|Matt Harmon||21/Oct/12||AltLd O/S|
|stefie c||21/Oct/12||AltLd rpt||
Lead Traverse + onto the nose
lead P1 and P3. Even in the cold and rain a cracking climb.
Fran 1st and 3rd Lead, me 2nd lead. Rained at second Belay
|alaster tonge||13/Oct/12||Lead O/S||
Will Sheaf, carla girling
Katusha Dali, Sebastien Gastaud
|Sebastien Gastaud||29/Sep/12||Lead O/S||
Katusha Dali, Roslyn McKendry
|simon geering||27/Sep/12||2nd O/S||
PYB rapid development rock climbing course.
Lead first pitch with Sarah seconding then lowered followed by Myles. Abseiled off.
rained half way through so experience of wet climb. plus traverse. james as guide
Cloudy, missed last pitch as it was very busy
Si's MIA recce
Thought the hardest move was on p1, did I do it wrong?
|Simon Cahill||06/Aug/12||AltLd O/S||
4 pitches, I led 1 & 3, Traverse on pitch 2 is well protected. Pt 1 step right onto arete, don't leave to late unless you to deal with the overhanging block at about 4b! Note tricky to find a good belay on the ledge at the top of the cracks on pt 3 as the obvious nut placement is actually under a detached block. Consider moving right at top of cracks to alternative ledge or continue through to the top.
Led pitch 2
|bob johnson||31/Jul/12||AltLd O/S||
|Carl Simmons||26/Jul/12||AltLd O/S||
Rob Lead P1&2 together as 1 Pitch, slightly greasy start with the best part of these pitches is below the overhand, step up high, then easier step around to the right and follow crack to belay point at tree. I lead P3&4 together, trending right to nose, climb up on to Rib (great opportunity for second to take picture of lead person or when second is at that point as well from above). Follow cracks all the way to base of pillars. Great hand and foot placements for final 6m.
Multipitch climb. Really enjoyable climb. I lead pitch 1&2 together. Some rally nice move that require thinking about. Carl lead ye last two pitches together. Really enjoyable step on to the nose.
Borchgrevnick start. Did first 2 pitches in one and the main pitch. Good route.
|Brian Smith 84||23/Jun/12||Lead O/S|
|Matt Schwarz||13/May/12||AltLd O/S||
super windy, made the last pitch feel super exposed!
Dan lead to the second tree belay, I lead to top of the nose, Dan finished. Excellent climbing all the way for the grade. The step out on to the nose felt very airy.
|Happy Wanderer||06/May/12||AltLd O/S|
I lead P1+2 in one go, and Lee lead the rest in one go. I found the starting move of P2 was pretty hard (5b?). I climbed the groove immediately before the P2 belay to the top with a 5c move. Seemingly I missed the final footless traverse to the left, which anyway didn't look Severe at all. What was wrong?!
lovely climb at the grade, nice easy slab on the pitch after the nose pretty pointless 6m final pitch, do them both in 1. pleasant, long, exposed. good fun.
|Matt Bill Platypus||05/May/12||AltLd O/S||
Second half was more interesting than the first. Had to wait around at the belay due to queuing....
Led P1 & P3
i led 1st and 3rd pitches
led Mike up, his first outdoor route
|Mr. K||05/May/12||2nd O/S|
Multi pitch with three climbers. Really nice climb and good weather.
|Tom Campbell||22/Apr/12||Lead O/S||
lead all pitches
|dan ely||14/Apr/12||Solo O/S|
Started first two pitches as an ascent to the upper routes on the left thinkinbg this was two face butress. Decided we were definitely on the wrong route hanging off some shitty tree belay (literally as there is something nesting in the crack of Strapiombo). Determined something was wrong and bailed out finishing on PMP.
|Alessandro Tentori||?/Apr/12||2nd O/S||
CC P1,3, TB P2,4. Good climb, nice slab on P3 with a good view down stepping out onto the nose. Got a bit stuck near the top of the crack trying to work out where to go, as some "helpful" people shouted up that I was on an E2, before working out to traverse out left.
We ordered the weather.
alec thomas, chris thomas
|Paul Collins||18/Mar/12||AltLd O/S||
|Graeme Hammond||04/Mar/12||Lead O/S||
led in 2 big pitches. Nice route.
|mc fifi||02/Mar/12||Lead O/S|
Good placements on 1st and 2nd pitch: Mainly trees and spikes. 3rd and final pitch weak anchors but strong stance
Anna's first multi pitch and third day of climbing. This route is great never to hard and very exposed. Anna got up to me on pitch two she thought she was having a heart atack but I soon calmed her down. Instead of doing the big walk off we abbed down Barbarian. I asked Anna if she had abbed before "yea yea I'm a outdoor instructor" I add for kids. I threw the rope down started the abb. Anna looked down " I have never abbed like that before" So I gave her a quick Dale abb crash corse for the two big overhangs. Went down first kept hold of the rope as she abbed everything went fine nice one.
|climb the peak||??/2012||Lead O/S|
|Andrew will wilson||??/2012||AltLd O/S|
Got lost on the decent had to walk to farm.
Very enjoyable route with nice positions
Joined after i lead P2 of Great western. Belayed halfway through traverse to nose Andy ran the rest of the climb together, almost ran out of rope! Great position!
I got the trees, pete got the nose as i'd done it earlier
ran the traverse and slab pitches together then didn't do final chimney as obvious path leads to right
|Elliot Carrington||16/Oct/11||AltLd O/S||
lead 3rd pitch
with 2 x novices
|Sam Ash||01/Oct/11||Lead O/S|
|Mick Riley||25/Sep/11||AltLd O/S||
Led pitches 2 & 3
lead P1&2 dave lead the rest, wet at the bottom but final 36 m was great ! awesome exposure, top draw!! decent not the best and about as clear as a muddy lake
In one pitch something that may or may not have been PPP Original start p1 + 2 (did not seem much like severe!) - but straight up the groove by mistake instead of hand traversing out - interesting! Decided not suitable for Yvie's second trad route!(Maybe E1 5b?) Abbed off as getting dark.
|Jon Pilling||09/Sep/11||Lead O/S||
I led the tiny last pitch (not counting as lead). Have never seen such a big view down as the move round onto the final slab
|Phil Layton||28/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
Fantastic variety, great fun, good practice for ropework.
Led Pitch 2 but extended it around onto the final slab.
|Amber Chaloner||28/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
Great climb over the nose and up the slab
|Lawrie Brand||19/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
|Clogwyn y Gwin||14/Aug/11||AltLd O/S||
|Adam Romaine||05/Aug/11||AltLd O/S||
|joe bennett||31/Jul/11||AltLd O/S|
Aarons first multi pitch route,i led the route with aaron seconding very well. led the first two pitches as one which was tough on the rope drag!!
Great exposure on the slab section of the third pitch
Led P2 on it's own then strung 3,4 and 5 together, not as much rope drag as expected with some creative extension, fantastic exposure
P2 for me on this one.
|Sam Warby||16/Jun/11||AltLd O/S|
|Leo Woodhead||?/Jun/11||AltLd O/S|
Led 1st pitch, heavy rain when we reached top of second pitch so we had to ab off
|The Dangler||28/May/11||AltLd O/S|
Lead pitch 2 of 3
|Owen W-G||29/Apr/11||AltLd O/S||
Led in 2 pitches, Matt got the good one. Wasn't really sure where I supposed to go on P1, the old Trem guidebook really is rubbish.
Led 2nd pitch
Fine wee introduction to the area. Done in 3 pitches.
There seems to be two starts depending on which book you use. We did the original start which has the date of the first ascent scratched onto the rock.I think it would deserve four stars just for the top slab pitch.
Good day out!!!
|Dave Bowler||15/Apr/11||AltLd O/S||
Next crag along from my first trip to Tremadog. Equally pleasant but tricky approach. Even with (old)guide book, start not obvious.
first three pitches, then abbed off.
SUMC Spring Trip 2011
Saw a Perigrin Falcon!
|Will O' T'' North||05/Mar/11||2nd|
started directly under the start of the nose pitch, quite bold second pitch moving around an over hang. not sure what climb it was. but finished on poor man peuterey over the nose. very Greeccy and wet!
in 2 pitches, Peri to the corner, me up nose and slab, excellent climbing in warm sunshine
two pitches, me first half, rob second. lovely route, in warm winter sunshine and long sleeved t shirts!
led 1st and 3rd pitches
Done again in october 2012
andrew erskine, ali mckay
Loved climbing the nose
|Will Hunt||22/Nov/10||Lead rpt||
|Matt Smith||20/Nov/10||AltLd O/S||
Lead pitch 1 (up to first tree belay)- very wet and seeping making it for me the hardest picth. Steve lead pitch 2 up to second tree belay, again wet, but plenty of tree roots to hang on to. Lead pitches 3 and 4 joined together, over the arete which was stunning. Steve finished off easy slab above. Finished and walked off in the dark.
|Jim Malo||06/Nov/10||AltLd O/S||
Shelley, Scott McRae
|Scott McRae||06/Nov/10||AltLd O/S||
Led final pitch. Still excellent even after 3 prior ascents. Mini adventure descending in pitch dark and heavy rain.
Shelley Watson, Jim Malo
Luke led 1st pitch, steve led pitchs 2+3, luke finished up the large slab to the top.
Steve Kirman, luke preston
Very nice route, good exposure whilst still being safe made it very enjoyable!
Katherine Budd, Hannah Evans
|Dafydd Llywelyn||17/Oct/10||AltLd O/S||
Led pitches 3-5, which were very good!
|Tom Redmond||16/Oct/10||AltLd O/S||
first multipitch lead, immense feeling!! esp the pitch from noes to top, brilliant! loved the exposure!!
|Jake Young||16/Oct/10||AltLd O/S|
|Matthew Scott-Chalmers||03/Sep/10||AltLd rpt||
lead pithces 1, 3 and 4
|lukas richardo||?/Aug/10||AltLd O/S||
led P2 n 3 in a onea. easy climbing. cracking position as you come round the bulge. real nice. its dead safe, so take the time to chill and absorb a minute rather than pushing through the exposure.
Nice, very nice!
P2 & 3 this time
I led pitches 1 & 3.
First multipitch climb. Taken along for the ride.
Hal, Richard W
|Alex Mason||?/Jul/10||Solo O/S||
To get out some gear. Found 2 nuts, a sling, and a quickdraw.
Laura Perry, James Grey
|Ed Griffin||27/Jun/10||AltLd O/S||
Lead pitches 1, 3, 4.
Time for Ed to Lead. I led p2 (not noteworthy) & p5 (nice two move wonder). Good lead from Ed on p1, and cracking p4. Ed's first multipitch lead.
barni p1 p2 p4 me p3 p5 or something like that
Had to retreat after 2nd pitch due to rain
Scotty led pitch 1 & 3, Liz led pitch2
Scotty McLaughlin, Liz Featherstone
Clare Tanner, Ryan Walker
Very enjoyable, especially in the sun! Did as 4 pitches with Gabbro and Tessa. I led p2 (accidently went up the more tricky wide crack rather than the hand traverse left)and also led the chimney finish, which was short but fun.
|Harry Thorpe||29/May/10||AltLd O/S||
Annie, Phil Pavey
Superb old school mountaineering type climb with some good exposure on the nose - loved it !
|Martin Stevens||02/May/10||AltLd rpt||
Lead p1&2 as one. Have lead all pitches in the past.
|cas smerdon||01/May/10||Lead dnf||
Led first pitch then it started to rain.
|Johnny B Diggerman||29/Apr/10||AltLd O/S||
I combined the first and second pitch and led th e last pitch. Dan led the rest. Great climb everything is there when you need it, great feeling once at the top. Well worth the two stars.
Yery good climb, exellent exposure with good holds. done in 3 pitches.
Owen and Tim
Nick Led pitch 2&3 together and the last pitch - I got 1st pitch and 4th, which is by far the best pitch of them all, great climbing with an abundance of protection. Really enjoyable climb
Led P3 (nb Borchgrevinck variation (P1 & P2) climbed, per guideboooks)
|Donald Kelly||04/Apr/10||2nd rpt||
first chance to lead climb
John lead pitches 2 and 4 I lead pitch 1 and 3 (traverse and exposed stance) Lower pitches were poor but worthwhile to get to pitch 4, 30m of great moves and exposure.
|Ray Talbot||14/Mar/10||Lead O/S||
Postive, good protection and fantastic exposure! Went off route on the first pitch going left round the crux instead of right - my seconder was more sensible.
|Ed Neil||?/Mar/10||Lead O/S|
Disappointing except for a few moves on the 30m pitch.
|christoph owen||17/Feb/10||2nd O/S|
|Helen Gibson||23/Jan/10||Lead O/S||
|Sion Meurig||??/2010||AltLd O/S|
A bit of a grovel really, even if it is a classic.
the first Trad climb i ever did! and i didnt know what the fuck i was doing either lol
|mike bridges||28/Nov/09||AltLd rpt||
rainy,wet & cold!Conor tied on in the middle & we belayed from both ends.still a fantastic route.
|Anthony Allsopp||01/Nov/09||Lead O/S||
One of the nicest climbs at the grade in the country. Fully deserving of it's reputation. Even though it was wet on the bottom, was very enjoyable stepping onto the nose!
Did it in two pitches, belaying just before the nose in the sunshine.
Sven was there too.
Ben Reinsch (BUMS)
Pitch 1 and 3
|Richard Morgan||27/Sep/09||AltLd O/S|
|Neil Rodgers (PCC)||19/Sep/09||AltLd O/S||
I led 1st, 3rd and 5th pitches
Jonathan Keats PCC
k kivell, s kivell
|andy mcc||22/Aug/09||AltLd O/S||
Led stunning top pitches
Superb route, Me P3, Dan P1 and 2. Pitch 3 is fantastic slabby crack climbing, after a wonderful pull round onto the arete, very exposed, very good fun. Ran it out a lot.
Borchgrevinck start. Led pitches 1, 3, 4 and 5. Ran pitches 4 and 5 into one. Roger got to grovel up the mud and tree roots on pitch 2.... Lovely climb, perfect weather and had the whole crag to ourselves.
Led 1st, 3rd & 4th pitches
And Barra. Chris led P1 & 2 together, Barra led traverse P3, I led pitch 4 but instead of going straight up for p5 I made the mistake of going to the ledge, setup belay and barra led p5.
|Glyn Davidson||11/Jul/09||AltLd O/S|
Did Right-Hand start. I led pitches 3 and 4.
Led 3rd pitch
|justin burgoyne||?/Jul/09||Lead O/S|
|Will Gordon||?/Jul/09||Lead O/S||
5 pitches, rain.
Very enjoyable. 2nd and 3rd pitch can be strung together very easily.
We did an alternative (and much harder) start (allegedly Peutery's Original). I led pitch 2, which saw me head into a difficult groove and required a bold hand traverse finish. Bottled-it on the hand traverse 'cos I didn't know what was around the arete, so set-up a belay. Should have gone for it 'cos that one move onto the arete was the end of the pitch and a bomber belay awaited. Doh!
Led pitch 1+2 (combined)
With Borchgrevinck start. Lovely long and exposed third pitch, made more interesting (?) by a bit of drizzle.
Pam Thomas, Chris Townsend
Led 2nd and 4th pitches
|John Brayshaw||20/Jun/09||AltLd O/S|
1st ever outdoor climb, scared me silly!!
Al Lead up to the hanging belay, i lead the last pitch, defiantly the best bit of the climb. top 50.
Tom and Steph
|Mr G||13/Jun/09||Lead O/S||
1st pitch (seconded) 12m 2nd pitch (seconded) 12m 3rd pitch (Lead) 4th pitch (seconded) 30m 5th pitch (Lead) Wonderful crux at the beginning of the fourth pitch
|climber smurf||13/Jun/09||2nd O/S||
Started out on Borchegrevinck and crossed to 3rd pitch of PMP
Tom and Vik (Waterbaby)
Kieran and Josh
Tom Weston, Andy McQue
Done after heavy rain, slippery especially the first 2 pitches, we combined the Borchgrevinck start with the main pitch of PMP.
|Rich God 3||27/May/09||AltLd|
|nigel pearson||03/May/09||AltLd O/S||
first two pitches quite awkward. fantastic third pitch.
Chris & Andy
|Storm Hunter||?/May/09||Lead O/S|
|Steven Andrews||25/Apr/09||AltLd O/S||
|Neil Pacey||18/Apr/09||2nd O/S|
Very straightforward climbing in excellent situation. Nose looks scary but easy when you get there.
|stewart murray||13/Apr/09||AltLd rpt||
Ash, matt, dad,
|Richard Hession||04/Apr/09||AltLd O/S||
Interesting tree root climbing!
all 4 pitches
|Richard Hill||21/Feb/09||2nd O/S||
Zoe and Jon
Lead pitches 1, 2 and 4.
Ian Hook, Jamie Grieg
Lead first 2 pitches
|Will Hunt||30/Nov/08||Lead dnf||
Started the actual start and didnt really like the look of it. Minging. Abbed off some tat to climb something better
|Will Hunt||30/Nov/08||AltLd O/S||
Started up Borchgrevnick. Much better. Led 1st pitch and traverse pitch. Belayed on top of the nose. Sarah's first multipitch swinging leads.
|Ewan Russell||29/Nov/08||Lead O/S||
W did it twice. I did an aternative direct start at around vs and Tom led the top section of poor mans then we did the proper start and ran it out
|Neil D||12/Oct/08||AltLd O/S|
Led 3rd pitch. Great run out and exposure, be sure to extend the runners on the traverse to prevent rope drag though!
|My Gravity||25/Aug/08||AltLd dnf||
Just did the first pitch in the rain then abbed off as it would of been a bit sketchy.
The "propper" route.
|jamie ward||12/Aug/08||AltLd O/S||
Led 1st/2nd pitch whilst wet!! top 2 pitch superb on dry rock.
|3 Names||?/Jul/08||Lead O/S|
excellent last pitch
Top half is still an excellent outing
The first time I have climbed the "real" route. the lower two pitches were excellent with a very good hand traverse on the 2nd. Lead pitches 1 and 2 (together). Third pitch, on to the nose, seems to have got very over grown though.
Colin LP pitch 1 Hayley LP pitch 2 and 3
First real mulit-pitch lead. climb as 3. BMG instructor. 125m
first two pitches, abbed off
kai ren, dave kenyon
I led main pitch onto nose and up twin cracks on slab, was awsome! My first multi-pitch lead.
|Donald Kelly||04/May/08||2nd O/S||
Emlyn W. Roberts, Tobias
|Simon Holden (LCandCC)||26/Apr/08||AltLd O/S||
Quite easy for Severe, I'd give it VDiff and maybe MS on the top pitch
It was a bit wet!
Second time lucky in finding this route I guess! Great exposure on the nose, awesome climb!
Last Pitch in the Rain
Allan Mac, Richard & Tony
|jade Edwards Leaney||26/Sep/07||Lead O/S||
James and Mark
James and Andy
Nic lead pitches 1 and 2 of Borchgrevinck- a brief traverse across slabs leads to a tree belay,I then led the 3 rd fantastic pitch- great position/holds/gear- and about 110 feet of climbing that is much easier than it looks from below.Check out the old ironmongery as you reach the nose !
lead final pitch
Terry and Fred
Nick Carter, Catherine Speakman
Stuart Fox, Willa Straker-Smith
great climb with glorious weather (briefly) - followed Sam,Chops & Al up but horrible slimy cracks then jammed gear and lost nut key (!) just below nice step onto airy nose.
first and last pitch
|canis cibo||29/Jul/07||AltLd O/S||
|Thomas Healing||29/Jul/07||Lead O/S||
Amazing climb with great views.
My first multipitch!!! An excellent first loved every minute of it (although very midgy at the bottom -bit to smithereens!) a classic first and hopefully the start of many more multi pitches! (fab climbing partner too! ;) )
First outdoor climb for me in years, had a great day out and loved the route once I got back on the rock.
|Adam Booth||07/May/07||Lead O/S||
not so good climbing in the rain, good route tho, did pitches 1,2,4, then walke off right. will do again on a sunny day..
Great route, fantastic pitch up the exposed nose and the slab above. Great position and exposure for the grade.
Alt start, first pitch good (maddie) second pitch wander up a muddy slope(me), third pitch nice slab with massive cracks(me)
Maddie Tulloch, Phillipa Petingill
Pretty sure we climbed the wrong starting pitches. Rejoined the climb below the nose.
|Dan 85||16/Dec/06||AltLd rpt||
Big holds, good position.
'The best Severe in the country'. Brilliant exposure on the last two pitches, and nice climbing throughout.
Richard FFitch, Laura Medley
Suzie and Jamie (instructor/lead)
I lead the 2nd pitch
third time lucky!
backed off once again!
Also done with si and serinde sometime?
|Ann S||26/Jul/06||Lead rpt||
Toby Kluth & Madeleine
Pitches 3,5 I think????
Tom Laws, Lucy Achkinson
seconded 2nd pitch
|Alaister Nurse||12/Jun/06||Lead O/S||
Climbed this when I was with a scout group. Great fun. This took my trad and multipitch virginity in one stunning fumble.
Tim Bird, Adam Rooke
Dave Checkley, Jim Dewhurst
Led 1st & 3rd pitches. Had to queue higher up.
Ian Johnson(L1), Me(L2), Oliver Mentz(L3)
|Harry The Owl||14/Apr/06||Lead O/S||
Wonderful stuff... thank feck for the lone bolt; step onto the nose and enjoy the climb upwards!
Neil Skipp, Monika W
Neil Skipp, A_d_tru
2nd hardest i've led? I think
had too back off
Sophia Dehlinger & Toby Kluth
|mike bridges||26/Aug/05||AltLd O/S||
I think this was Rob`s 1st multi-pitch climb.Rob led the nose & slab pitch and ran out of gear halfway up the slab,but continued to the top in fine style.
|Richard L||?/Aug/05||AltLd O/S||
multipitch course. Lead 2nd pitch on pre-placed gear
First lead of this route having seconded years before
|Allan Young||29/May/05||AltLd O/S||
|Howard J||19/Apr/05||AltLd rpt||
Dan lead first pitch, I lead second (Severe?), let another group climb through and then it got too cold to do thrid pitch. Abb'd back down again.
luke and dangerous steve
|Dan 85||19/Feb/05||AltLd O/S||
Jon and Dan
|Andy Campbell||??/2005||Lead O/S|
|Peter Smith||??/2005||Lead rpt||
Lead with first ascentionist 50 years anniversary of climb
|Nigel R Lewis||19/Sep/04||AltLd|
255 Ft, Ab off.
255 Ft, Abseil off
|Howard J||27/Jun/04||AltLd rpt||
Led p 2 & 4
wet but lovely
|Simon Caldwell||22/Jun/03||AltLd rpt||
Last 2 pitches only, started up Great Western by mistake!
|rob wmc||?/May/03||AltLd O/S||
Nice bit of exposure at the start of the last pitch.
P1 Al lead () Caroline was lowered off the first pitch after topping out with mud on her face and Ted led P2. Abed off after this
Ted Saunders, Caroline Sherrard, Alistar McKelvie
|Jon Pilling||?/Nov/02||2nd O/S||
|Will Gordon||?/Nov/02||AltLd O/S||
|Derek Ryden||07/Oct/02||Lead O/S||
|Mark Riley||?/Jun/02||AltLd O/S|
Brian Wills, Bruce Cregan
|Le Chevalier Mal Fet||?/Jul/01||AltLd||
|Andy S||?/Jun/01||Lead rpt||
This is mega-classic, probably the best Severe I've done anywhere - not to be missed! The top pitch is sublime.
|Jonny M||?/Apr/01||2nd O/S|
Lead pitches 2 & 4
had a wobble on the corner near the top - otherwise great
cardiff climbing club
|Ed Booth||??/2000||Lead O/S|
|Dave Toseland||??/2000||Lead O/S||
|zero six||??/2000||Lead O/S|
Neil led p1, me the rest.
|Chris the Tall||?/May/99||AltLd||
Did the first 2 pitches of Borchevnick - lead 2nd and 4th pitchs
Sharon Wagg, Dave Wagg
Josie Smith, Nigel Lyle
|Paul Boardman||18/Jul/96||AltLd O/S||
|chris sm||16/Jul/95||AltLd O/S||
My first ever climb:)
|belay bunny turned bad||??/1995||-|
|chris d williams||30/Aug/93||AltLd|
|Scott McRae||01/Jun/92||AltLd O/S||
Super climbing in exposed poistions. Am sure I left the VS Direct option as pitch 1/2.Led pitch 4. Still a great climb. Did it again with Steve Jones/ Tim Bassett?
|Steve Crowe||28/Aug/90||AltLd O/S||
Holly Evans, Chris Ellis
Holly Evans, Mark Kemball
Second ever route
|leland stamper||11/Apr/82||Solo O/S|
|Nic Robinson||23/May/81||Lead O/S|
'Top 120 ft pitch excellent. Superb strange golden sunset.'
Nick Gregory, Nigel Fallon
Also done since - no dates
|William Robertson||??/1980||Lead O/S||
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
|George Elliott||?/Mar/76||2nd rpt|
|Howard J||??/1974||AltLd O/S||
Reading University MC
Not very memorable.
Bangor Outdoor post grad folk
|rob from scotland||??/1970||Lead|