Spare Rib*** E4 6a

Rockfax Description
A stunning and alarming route, making up the trilogy of hard aretes on this crag. Start by the ladder to the right of the groove of Barbarian.
1) 6a, 28m. From the top of the ladder, move onto the top of a pinnacle. Head left up the slab and move up again to a small ledge. Shuffle right to a groove and climb this. Move left at its top before heading straight up to belay below the corner of P2 of Scratch.
2) 6a, 30m. Move left round the pinnacle and into the base of a groove just left of the arete. Gain the slab above and climb up to the roof via the arete. Move to the right of the arete and make a tricky move left onto the slab above the roof which leads to more thin climbing. You are eventually forced back onto the steeper right wall, possible blind cam placement down and right. Head straight up, don't slap for the ledge; it slopes alarmingly. Easy climbing leads to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Ultimate E4 ticklist.

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This climb is in 20 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Led P1 maybeish? Who knows. Good lead by Henry on P2
wi11 - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/15 with Henry F

Led both pitches. Fantastic top pitch, first pitch ambiguous and stressful, had to dyno the move across the slab?
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 16/May/15 with Henry

What a route! First E4 onsight off the slate. Found the second pitch to be a pretty intense experience. Had to really switch my brain off. The moves through the overlap were committing, hard to read, spontaneous. 'Woke up' whilst placing the RP below my feet and fighting a nasty onset of disco leg. Realised where I was and topped out with the sun illuminating clouds of chalk against the rock.
Dan724 - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/14 with Ben Ryle

Didn't do last pitch, another day. Dan on finest form though well done old boy!
BenRyle - AltLd dog - 01/Sep/14 with Dan

Cracking route, both pitches of high quality
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Nick Bullock

Quality route. Led P1 ground up and seconded P2 clean. P1 felt nails and very strenuous. Took a few attempts climbing up and down to figure out the beta for going through the first overlap, but in the end I didn't want to commit. Got tired hanging around not moving anywhere so downclimbed to rest on the peg. Lowered back to the start and had another go getting through this (just), managed to hang around and shove some gear in (just) and pull onto the slab with relief. Glad I managed to fight through and keep hanging on for this one. P2 was awesome and looks so improbable looking up at it from the belay. Technically felt much easier than P1, with only one tricky move, but bolder.
shed_hed - AltLd RP - 05/Jul/14 with Gwen Lancashire

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/13

Lead both pitches. Was a bit unsure where to go on p1. P2 was fucking amazing. Glad I didn't fall off up there.
markalmack - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13 with chris todd

Awesome route. Led both pitches. Ignore guidebook description on P1 where it says to traverse right after the pinnacle, Straight up all the way (maybe a reach rightwards at most). Top pitch is sublime and unlikely!
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/13 with Gwen Lancashire

tim 1st pitch, me second pitch. airy climbing, gear where you need it. awesome.
willoates - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Tim Neil

Graham Atkins - AltLd - 30/Jun/12

JulesV - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/12 with Graham Atkins

Top pitch led. first pitch look a bit poo. top pitch amazing
barni - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/11 with luke

switch - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Leanne

Bob - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 1990

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/89

Hidden - Lead - 1985

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/84 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/May/81

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
theomoore, EyebrowTom
Total votes cast 21
hard E50 of 7
E50 of 7
easy E50 of 7
hard E41 of 7
E44 of 7
easy E41 of 7
hard E31 of 7
E30 of 7
easy E30 of 7
hard 6b0 of 7
6b0 of 7
easy 6b0 of 7
hard 6a0 of 7
6a5 of 7
easy 6a2 of 7
hard 5c0 of 7
5c0 of 7
easy 5c0 of 7
3 Stars4 of 7
2 Stars3 of 7
1 Star0 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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