52m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A worthwhile trip up the left-hand side of the buttress. It gets a bit squeezed at the top, hence the name.
1) 5b, 30m. Start up the groove (as for Creagh Dhu Wall) but move left into the steep groove and up it to a roof. Move right and up to the big overhang then traverse out left to get stood on a rib. Above, the main roof beckons, but the moves are perplexing. Pull right, then back left to a small stance below a crack a little higher.
2) 5b, 25m. Cracks and a groove lead to the roof. Pull over the right-hand edge of this, then move left round the arete for an independent finish, or join Creagh Dhu Wall. © Rockfax

Al Evans, S Tansey, S Beresford 01/Jun/1979

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Davesmith1981 24/Sep AltLd
Owen Pearce
Hannes B 16/Sep 2nd

variations of it..

Tom Lawfield, Neil C
Andrew Sloan 06/Sep Lead O/S

Some tough moves through the lower overhangs and a delicate bold finish.

SAF 24/Aug 2nd
Hidden 24/Aug Lead O/S
Rachel Somerville 15/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug AltLd
martrin 07/Jul Lead
Sarah Kekus
Hidden 27/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun 2nd
steveboote 27/Jun Lead dog
Hidden 21/Jun AltLd O/S
Cake 21/Jun AltLd O/S

P1. First pitch is great with good gear on the second crux, but could take a bit of a swing round the first roof. Don't think the second pitch is 5b, unless it's the very top

shaunhumphreys 21/Jun AltLd O/S

Ace steep climbing!

benkelsey 21/Jun AltLd O/S

p2. great p1 wth painful quartz jam to finish.

Shaun Humphreys
stemill 21/Jun Lead

Good first pitch but feels a bit pointlessly eliminate in parts.

Calder 21/Jun 2nd
davebrox 16/Jun AltLd O/S
Stuart L
cem 14/Jun AltLd O/S

Led p 1.

Kirill 14/Jun AltLd O/S
paul79 07/Jun AltLd O/S
greglad 07/Jun -
KeenClimber 26/May AltLd O/S

Alt lead, second P1, led P2.

Alasdair88 24/May AltLd O/S

Led first pitch. Possibly Got a little lost on the second.

Hidden 24/May 2nd O/S
joedoherty 17/May AltLd O/S

First pitch is an awesome 5B, lots of good gear. Second pitch is an eliminate and is not 5b feels more like 5a at most.

dobby 200 17/May AltLd O/S

I led P2. Pitch 1 was awesome, but pitch 2 is an eliminate with barely a 5a move on it

jamestaylor92 09/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/May AltLd O/S
jimxxx ?/May AltLd O/S

alt lead with chris. lead 1st /2nd second pitch

j.buckley87 11/Apr AltLd O/S
tmawer 05/Apr AltLd O/S

Pitch one, which I seconded, is pretty intimidating, but very good. Pitch 2 a bit false.

BTphonehome 05/Apr AltLd O/S

Excellent 1st pitch through some intimidating territory.

Hidden 25/Mar AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Feb Lead O/S
southern_smit ??/2015 AltLd
jcw ??/2015 -
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Ian craigie ??/2015 Lead
lost.arrow 13/Dec/14 -
Stu Sherwood
Ewan Russell 15/Nov/14 AltLd O/S


Tom Nichols
Hidden 12/Oct/14 2nd
Misha 20/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Good first pitch through the overhang. Ed and I agreed that the second pitch was a bit of an eliminate and only had one 5b move, the rest is about VS. With well extended runners under the roof this would go in one pitch. I led the first and Ed the second.

dswansonlow 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Got a little confused about where to go after the roof.

Harry Wickham
jon22 09/Aug/14 AltLd
Dave Garry
Dizz 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1, finished up Creag Dhu Wall Direct so clean repeat ascent p2

John Nuttall 15/May/14 2nd
Andy H
maybe_si 01/May/14 AltLd O/S
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Justin Shiels 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
freudy_love 01/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Pete Macpherson
dicky79 26/May/13 AltLd O/S


Mark Warnett ?/May/13 AltLd

pitch 1, steady E1, good quality, nice semi hanging belay in good position

Jim Duthie
Duncan Campbell 30/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

led p1, funky climbing around the bulges.

khawk 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
edmitchell 03/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 03/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Second pitch was a lot easier than the first

simonp ?/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Jules Vulliamy
wi11 28/Feb/13 AltLd rpt
Sardien 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. A few moments before I could commit to the hard move as I couldnt reach to place good gear, but then it was al ok. Great effort of Helena leading the roof pitch

Helena Robinson
Hidden ??/2013 2nd
tcn_2002 11/Nov/12 AltLd
Sam Simpson 03/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
catblack 28/Sep/12 AltLd

attempted to led 2nd pitch but the crux slab was very wet, a long way above gear and uninspiring so finished up craig dhu wall. First pitch has some exciting moves through the overhang, pitch two is crap - better to finish up craig dhu wall direct i reckon

Bulls Crack 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S

some good moves but a bit too contrived to be a good route

wi11 31/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
JonnoP 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Chad123 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Much tougher E1 than Tantalus, most of the hard climbing is on the first pitch, some tricky moves getting past the two overlaps. Top pitch is really only one thin move with either no gear or bomber wires if you can reach them. Worth a star but not as good as Tensor for one...

J1PEF 06/Jun/12 2nd
Neil Mackay
Andy Clarke 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

Fine climbing on P1, particularly the crimpy moves onto and up the rib. P2 is tamer but with a good finish. Led P2.

Ollie B 15/May/12 AltLd O/S
Lenny 06/May/12 AltLd O/S

1st Pitch

Phil .N
Hidden 06/May/12 AltLd O/S
Dale ?/May/12 AltLd O/S

A great route if only the 2nd pitch was as good as the 1st. 2nd pitch good but 1st pitch awesome. I had 1st pitch very intricate rope work, I thought hard 5b moves moving across and under 1st overhang, took me a while little disco leg on wall. Then moves threw 2nd overhang think I made it slighly harder than it should of been using worong cracks doing abit of O key Ko Key, eventually nice heal hook to stop the barn door. Andy took the piss and got me back for earlier in the wkend :) All fun

Alex Mason 31/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Turned up just in time to second this. One crux section, the rest felt HS. Good fun though.

Andy Scott, Jon Ratcliffe
Hidden ??/2012 -
heather rogers 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
feilx 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead
3 Names 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

I lead pitch 1, Roz pitch 2

givemetea 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

5b, 5b - led P2. Great route with really contrasting pitches.

dan ely 24/Jun/11 2nd
tony (army)
harold walmsley 23/Jun/11 AltLd

Led P1, deserves a star.

Paul Evans
Hidden 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/May/11 -
Rich Kirby 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Adam Lincoln 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Rick Kirby
tobydunford 12/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Harry Martin
Tim Sparrow 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Piers Nesbitt
nige 03/Apr/11 AltLd
mark hounslea
dan ely 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
jon (ukc reading)
escalade ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Derek Ryden 13/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
Glynne Andrew
Hidden ?/Nov/10 2nd β
MikeLeeds 24/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Kevin Bowser
Hidden 24/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
ian caton 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

went straight through roof via quartz crack. does anybody really go out left at that point to groove as per description? nul points!

Abi Chard 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Sandy Simpson 11/Aug/10 -
Ross Hewitt
Ben1983 17/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/10 2nd β
barni 16/May/10 AltLd O/S


Luke Brooks 16/May/10 AltLd
Cardi 15/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2, great route.

Hidden 01/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 AltLd O/S
phil64 ?/May/10 AltLd
Hidden 20/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
david morse 02/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Rapped off after first pitch due to a Tornado

Al blackshaw
The Green Giant 22/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
HeatherF 22/Feb/10 2nd O/S

Lead up to the overhang, tried it a few times, got scared, Alex lead on. Found a different way of doing it on second that worked

metal arms 30/Jan/10 Lead
mr mills ??/2010 -
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
alasdair19 ??/2010 -
soph ??/2010 -
bertos 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S

wet and easy ... but really good rock!

Carly 14/Oct/09 AltLd
Liam FLeming 01/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

good over hang size 3.5-4 cam helpful

Dan Jackson
Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Siderunner 27/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Good route though the midway belay could be more comfortable

Phill Mitch 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S

a heavy downpour pushed us onto the top pitch of creg du wall to finish.

Tim W 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

First pitch TW, Second pitch PB

Hidden 20/Jun/09 2nd O/S
spum 12/Jun/09 2nd
ben jones
DavidR 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Managed to stray onto Creagh Dhu Wall Direct for the 2nd pitch.

Hidden 12/Apr/09 2nd
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
nai 12/Jul/08 AltLd
tlr 12/Jul/08 AltLd
Wilbur 17/May/08 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Thought provoking crux with gear out of sight... quite memorable. worth seeking out and almost deserted here..

viking ?/May/08 AltLd

great little route - fantastaic jamming on pitch one around the roof in crack with crystals in it - mad!

Owen W-G 13/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Holds under roof v wet, made the crux feel hard! Final slab sopping too, so clipped insitu gear before committing to final moves (hangs head in shame). A decent route - needs a star or two.

Simon Denison
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
yuha 17/Dec/07 AltLd O/S

Lead the 1st pitch.

Luke, Dave
jake-jones ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S

Lead P2

garythomas ?/Dec/07 2nd
Ian Bryant
Hidden 22/Oct/07 2nd
Owain Llewelyn 29/Jul/07 Lead
MikeT ?/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
ritchierich 05/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
Bob Dickson
davidgent ?/Jan/07 2nd O/S

Seconded each pitch

Luke and Uha
davetigger ??/2007 -
Si dH 04/Aug/06 AltLd dog

Resting below hte crux big roof on pitch 1 (pitch 2 according to PW) was the one blot on a whoel week of great clibming :( I thought this move hard (read it wrong originally) but the rest quite straightforward. Would be an excellent route but for the closeness to Creagh Dhu Wall at the top, which makes it feel very eliminate (hence the name...?)

Neil Furniss
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
michael burrows 24/Sep/05 AltLd
steve ward
spidey 21/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/04 AltLd dnf
a_radiohead_fan ??/2004 -
Hidden 23/Apr/00 2nd
Hidden 17/Jul/98 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/98 Lead
nickdonohue 14/Mar/98 AltLd

nice top. soft touch for 5b on 2nd pitch

Dave Chapman
Hidden 01/Feb/98 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/97 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/96 AltLd
michael burrows 14/May/95 AltLd O/S
brian jones
Hidden 29/Mar/95 AltLd
Budge ??/1995 Lead O/S
Richard Teed
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/93 2nd
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
mattnuttall 30/Mar/91 AltLd O/S
Alan Holden
mark-abz 08/Sep/90 Lead O/S
Andy W
Nick Biven ??/1990 -
Nick Biven ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
Hidden 18/Dec/88 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/88 AltLd
Hidden 06/Apr/88 Lead
ChrisJD 04/Jul/87 Lead
Hidden ??/1987 -
steveboote ??/1986 AltLd
Phil Sampson
Hammy 13/Jun/85 AltLd
Colin Struthers
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1985 AltLd
Bill Williamson
Hidden 21/Apr/84 Lead
Mark Kemball 12/Feb/84 2nd
Alan Little
AlanLittle ?/Feb/84 AltLd
Hidden ??/1984 -
Hidden ??/1984 -
mikej 07/Sep/83 AltLd dnf
Mike Byles
Gordon Stainforth 02/Jul/83 AltLd
Robert Barton
AlanLittle ??/1982 -
Chris Ellis 16/Aug/80 AltLd

? possible second ascent

Gabriel Regan
Ian Clare ??/1980 -
Tom V ??/1973 -
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 55
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set