A worthwhile trip up the left-hand side of the buttress. It gets a bit squeezed at the top, hence the name.
1) 5b, 30m. Start up the groove (as for Creagh Dhu Wall) but move left into the steep groove and up it to a roof. Move right and up to the big overhang then traverse out left to get stood on a rib. Above, the main roof beckons, but the moves are perplexing. Pull right, then back left to a small stance below a crack a little higher.
2) 5b, 25m. Cracks and a groove lead to the roof. Pull over the right-hand edge of this, then move left round the arete for an independent finish, or join Creagh Dhu Wall. © Rockfax
Al Evans, S Tansey, S Beresford 01/Jun/1979
Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
variations of it..
Tom Lawfield, Neil C
|Andrew Sloan||06/Sep||Lead O/S||
Some tough moves through the lower overhangs and a delicate bold finish.
|Rachel Somerville||15/Aug||AltLd O/S||
P1. First pitch is great with good gear on the second crux, but could take a bit of a swing round the first roof. Don't think the second pitch is 5b, unless it's the very top
Ace steep climbing!
p2. great p1 wth painful quartz jam to finish.
Good first pitch but feels a bit pointlessly eliminate in parts.
Led p 1.
Alt lead, second P1, led P2.
Led first pitch. Possibly Got a little lost on the second.
First pitch is an awesome 5B, lots of good gear. Second pitch is an eliminate and is not 5b feels more like 5a at most.
|dobby 200||17/May||AltLd O/S||
I led P2. Pitch 1 was awesome, but pitch 2 is an eliminate with barely a 5a move on it
alt lead with chris. lead 1st /2nd second pitch
Pitch one, which I seconded, is pretty intimidating, but very good. Pitch 2 a bit false.
Excellent 1st pitch through some intimidating territory.
|Ewan Russell||15/Nov/14||AltLd O/S||
Good first pitch through the overhang. Ed and I agreed that the second pitch was a bit of an eliminate and only had one 5b move, the rest is about VS. With well extended runners under the roof this would go in one pitch. I led the first and Ed the second.
Got a little confused about where to go after the roof.
Led P1, finished up Creag Dhu Wall Direct so clean repeat ascent p2
|Justin Shiels||14/Sep/13||Lead O/S||
pitch 1, steady E1, good quality, nice semi hanging belay in good position
|Duncan Campbell||30/Apr/13||AltLd O/S||
led p1, funky climbing around the bulges.
|Adam Booth||03/Mar/13||AltLd O/S||
Second pitch was a lot easier than the first
Led P2. A few moments before I could commit to the hard move as I couldnt reach to place good gear, but then it was al ok. Great effort of Helena leading the roof pitch
|Sam Simpson||03/Oct/12||AltLd O/S|
attempted to led 2nd pitch but the crux slab was very wet, a long way above gear and uninspiring so finished up craig dhu wall. First pitch has some exciting moves through the overhang, pitch two is crap - better to finish up craig dhu wall direct i reckon
|Bulls Crack||01/Sep/12||Lead O/S||
some good moves but a bit too contrived to be a good route
Much tougher E1 than Tantalus, most of the hard climbing is on the first pitch, some tricky moves getting past the two overlaps. Top pitch is really only one thin move with either no gear or bomber wires if you can reach them. Worth a star but not as good as Tensor for one...
|Andy Clarke||27/May/12||AltLd O/S||
Fine climbing on P1, particularly the crimpy moves onto and up the rib. P2 is tamer but with a good finish. Led P2.
|Ollie B||15/May/12||AltLd O/S||
A great route if only the 2nd pitch was as good as the 1st. 2nd pitch good but 1st pitch awesome. I had 1st pitch very intricate rope work, I thought hard 5b moves moving across and under 1st overhang, took me a while little disco leg on wall. Then moves threw 2nd overhang think I made it slighly harder than it should of been using worong cracks doing abit of O key Ko Key, eventually nice heal hook to stop the barn door. Andy took the piss and got me back for earlier in the wkend :) All fun
|Alex Mason||31/Mar/12||2nd O/S||
Turned up just in time to second this. One crux section, the rest felt HS. Good fun though.
Andy Scott, Jon Ratcliffe
|heather rogers||28/Aug/11||2nd O/S|
|3 Names||23/Jul/11||AltLd O/S||
I lead pitch 1, Roz pitch 2
5b, 5b - led P2. Great route with really contrasting pitches.
Led P1, deserves a star.
|Rich Kirby||30/Apr/11||AltLd O/S|
|Adam Lincoln||30/Apr/11||AltLd O/S||
|Tim Sparrow||09/Apr/11||Lead O/S||
|dan ely||27/Mar/11||Lead O/S||
jon (ukc reading)
|Derek Ryden||13/Nov/10||AltLd O/S||
|ian caton||15/Aug/10||AltLd O/S||
went straight through roof via quartz crack. does anybody really go out left at that point to groove as per description? nul points!
|Abi Chard||15/Aug/10||AltLd O/S|
Led P2, great route.
|david morse||02/Apr/10||Lead dnf||
Rapped off after first pitch due to a Tornado
|The Green Giant||22/Feb/10||AltLd O/S|
Lead up to the overhang, tried it a few times, got scared, Alex lead on. Found a different way of doing it on second that worked
wet and easy ... but really good rock!
|Liam FLeming||01/Oct/09||AltLd O/S||
good over hang size 3.5-4 cam helpful
Good route though the midway belay could be more comfortable
|Phill Mitch||18/Jul/09||Lead O/S||
a heavy downpour pushed us onto the top pitch of creg du wall to finish.
|Tim W||20/Jun/09||AltLd O/S||
First pitch TW, Second pitch PB
Managed to stray onto Creagh Dhu Wall Direct for the 2nd pitch.
Led P2. Thought provoking crux with gear out of sight... quite memorable. worth seeking out and almost deserted here..
great little route - fantastaic jamming on pitch one around the roof in crack with crystals in it - mad!
|Owen W-G||13/Apr/08||Lead O/S||
Led both pitches. Holds under roof v wet, made the crux feel hard! Final slab sopping too, so clipped insitu gear before committing to final moves (hangs head in shame). A decent route - needs a star or two.
Lead the 1st pitch.
Seconded each pitch
Luke and Uha
|Si dH||04/Aug/06||AltLd dog||
Resting below hte crux big roof on pitch 1 (pitch 2 according to PW) was the one blot on a whoel week of great clibming :( I thought this move hard (read it wrong originally) but the rest quite straightforward. Would be an excellent route but for the closeness to Creagh Dhu Wall at the top, which makes it feel very eliminate (hence the name...?)
nice top. soft touch for 5b on 2nd pitch
|michael burrows||14/May/95||AltLd O/S||
? possible second ascent