Rockfax Description
A great route with a committing first pitch. It follows the main diagonal feature across the wall. Abseil 80m down the rampline until level with a sandy trough 25m above the sea.
1) 5b, 20m. Traverse right across soft rock (poor peg) to gain the dusty chimney. Climb this, exiting steeply right to a poor belay on a small ledge.
2) 5c, 23m. Step right into the chimney, avoiding the bulge on the left, to a broken diagonal crack. Follow this up and right in a fine position to a square-cut ledge. Step right and climb the groove to easier ground and a small stance on the left.
3) 5c, 23m. Commit to gaining the peg 3m above the belay. Follow the continuation of the diagonal crack up and right past more pegs until a large rampline and belay.
4) 4b, 15m. The slab above leads much more easily to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A great route, with a very committing first pitch. It follows the main diagonal feature across the wall, and is an enticing line. Start by abseiling down the ramp-line about 80m from the top, until level with a sandy trough, about 25m above the sea.
1) 5b, 20m. Traverse right across soft rock, with little in the way of gear, past a poor peg, to gain the dusty chimney. Climb this, exiting steeply right to a poor belay on a small ledge (poor bolt stub, poor pegs, poor spike and poor cam 4 ).
2) 5c, 23m. Step right into the chimney, dodging the bulge on the left, before picking up a broken diagonal crack. Follow this up and right in a fine position to a square-cut ledge. Step right and climb the groove to easier ground and a small stance on the left.
3) 5c, 23m. Commit to gaining the peg 3m above the belay. Follow the continuation of the diagonal crack up and right past more pegs, until you reach a large ramp-line and belay.
4) 4b, 15m. The slab above leads much more easily to the top.
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)