UKC Logbook - 'Tufted Crack'

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West Yorkshire > Ilkley (Cow and Calf) >

Tufted Crack

E1 5c

Adjacent Climbs
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Waterloo >>

[Trying not to jam on Tufted Crack, Ilkley, 2 kb]

The right-hand crack in the headwall looks innocuous enough but proves to be a struggle. Too fat for fingers and too thin for hands, you could always try and layback it. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, Allan Austin Classics.

Photo: Trying not to jam on Tufted Crack, Ilkley © Sean_J
View all 15 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 227 logbooks, and on 30 wishlists.

Not my preferred style of climbing... pumped out on the crux crack and rested on gear by the horizontal break - annoyed because next few moves were straight forward and solid (thin) hand jams!! Will be back to do it clean!!
kyaizawa - Lead dog - 05/May/13 with Andrei Markin, Alex Mathie

Strenuous. Totally zapped by the time I got to the top - barely had the strength to mantel up!
alexm198 - 2nd dog - 05/May/13 with Ky Aizawa

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/13

hard
samthom - 2nd dog - 01/May/13 with Dave

John Gale - TR - 2013

Tenko - 2013

samwillo - Lead - 10/Dec/12 with Stefan Genet, Thomas Shaw

First proper crack climb, definite enjoyment.
stefelafel - 2nd dog - 10/Dec/12

Goose4 - Lead - 05/Nov/12 with Tom Adams, Euan McKendrick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/12

would probably be 5.9 in the US ;)
samrad - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/12 with Bennykr

Two real falls just as my fingers were getting over the lip of the only hand hold, two rests but did all the moves. Shaking like a leaf up the final jams. Glad its done though.
adamwesthead - Lead dog - 22/Sep/12 with Zeb

mikecollins - Lead dog - 15/Sep/12 with Laura D

riven - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Mike

Few little falls and lots of hanging around. Not strong enough yet with jams
adamwesthead - Lead dnf - 08/Sep/12 with Zeb

Zeb used my gear and finished it with one fall
adamwesthead - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/12 with Zeb

zebster - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/12 with Adam

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Sep/12

Desperately slippy
RFWilkie - 2nd dog - 31/Jul/12 with Mark

horrible, horrible....
Thinker01 - Lead dog - 31/Jul/12 with Ralph Wilkinson

horsefeathers - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/12 with Lukas

Quality route, pretty hard for an E1!
derico - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/12 with Sam & Billy

MarkRoe - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Matt Fisher, Matt Breakell

Nickster - AltLd dog - Jun/12 with alan Purgues

Took 4 rests to realise that it is too polished to jam (too narow for hands, too wide for fingers). Feels more like E2!! Jam, layback, rest on crimps and then layback to the top. Pumpy!
monkeyman79 - TR dog - 30/May/12 with Dan Giblin

stonemonkey159 - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

RossKirtley - Lead RP - 13/May/12 with Matt Robinson

GREAT climb. Committing, scary (if wasn't on top rope) and an awesome feeling when you get to the top of it. Crazy laybacking with feet walking up the edge of the finger width crack. Fell half way up final crack as foot slipped.
Morgan P - TR dog - 21/Apr/12 with Adam Cooper

jacktomlinson - 2nd dog - 21/Mar/12 with Holder, Nick Michel

efrance24234 - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/12

Matt Cooke - Lead β - 26/Feb/12 with Rosh

lanky and weak - Lead O/S - Feb/12 with Ryan Conroy

Hidden - 2012

Dan Mckinlay - 2012

Hidden - TR RP - 2012

cat22 - 2nd - 22/Oct/11 with Mike

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Oct/11

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

sprinted for the top once I decided to "go for it"
mike bridges - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Robert Bridges

Managed a clean ascent mainly with a lay back and good toe position. More practice needed for lead though.
specialboy - TR rpt - 23/Sep/11 with Paul Connor

failed to second this years ago. Clean today
Ewan Russell - Lead - 15/Sep/11 with Tom_Jermy

Came off on the very last hand jam. Almost got in clean. Good lead Zeb. Was his third and attempt and took 3 falls this time.
adamwesthead - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/11 with Zeb

third attempt and i finally did it with 3 falls but i got there:) very hard!!
zebster - Lead dog - 09/Sep/11 with Adam

pie_eater_pete - Lead rpt - 30/Aug/11

Kevster - Lead β - 14/Aug/11

Pike - TR dnf - 14/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Aug/11

Hidden - TR dog - 08/Aug/11

Kind of ground-up. I did it second time, but only came down to the easy bit of Josephine. Probably E1, but I couldn't do it on-sight
Cake - Lead RP - 01/Aug/11 with Matt

Another few airmiles. Well and truly dogged but ran out of time to finish.
jakelodge - Lead dnf - 31/Jul/11 with Harry Thorpe

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jul/11

Awesome whipper! Face first plummet!
Pete Scott - Lead dog - 11/Jul/11 with Nick Loader

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11

CragDog - 2nd - 11/Jun/11 with Ben

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 30/May/11 with Becky E

Becky E - 2nd O/S - 30/May/11 with Graeme Hammond

David Kay - Lead dnf - 27/May/11 with Aaron O'Leary

james.peter - Lead - 02/May/11 with TOm Charnock

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Apr/11

RyanC - 2nd dog - 16/Apr/11 with Conor Cussell

Laurence Everitt - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Harry Thorpe, Cocky

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Mar/11

took a whipper from the top!
keith leonard - Lead dog - 2011

Hidden - 2nd dog - 07/Nov/10

d_meacher - Lead dog - 07/Nov/10 with Dave Roberts (Flash), Tim Ashlin

JJJunior - Lead - 13/Oct/10

1 fall, thought i had it and slipped off the last move, gutted.
conorcussell - Lead - 11/Oct/10

excleent climbing, and much easier than I expected. There is no way any of the moves are 5c!
roberto18 - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/10 with Conor Cussell

ewen - Lead dog - 21/Sep/10 with neil stabbs

Hidden - 12/Sep/10

chris sm - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Jon Pearson

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Sep/10

Too hard for me
John Brayshaw - TR dog - 05/Sep/10 with Josh

jcurrie93 - TR dog - 05/Sep/10 with john brayshaw

akhughes - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

Led on gear from Noel's efforts.
PeteH - Lead β - 30/Aug/10 with Noel Peatfield

Neither me or Zeb could do it. Ended up hanging on a no. cam. Need to learn to finger jam better.
adamwesthead - Lead dnf - 31/Jul/10 with Zeb

zebster - Lead dnf - 31/Jul/10 with Adam

BAM!
petellis - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/10 with Rock and Dole

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/10 with Pete

Up after Christoph. Took three attepts to reach the hold 2/3rds up the crack (which I reached first attempt on lead earlier in the day) and then blizted the upper hand jams which I couldn't commit to on lead. Arghhhhh!
lrandall - 2nd - 26/Jun/10 with Christophe

Pissed! Made it to the small hold 2/3rds up the crack with no real difficulty but my balls shrank/ head froze and I couldn't commit to the upper hand jams. Played around on it for a bit arguing that, at the least, I could do with taking the falls on gear, but eventually lowered off. My head is seriously outta wack :(
lrandall - Lead dnf - 26/Jun/10 with Flo

barni - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/10 with Alys, Justin Hughes, seanmalone

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/May/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/May/10

simon kimber - 2nd - 03/May/10 with Fabrizio Della Rossa

pastep - 2nd dog - 28/Apr/10 with ebf

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Apr/10

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10 with michael porter

Had to rest, one to come back for
Harry Thorpe - Lead dog - 27/Mar/10 with Mike Gadd

petegunn - Lead - 18/Mar/10 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd dog - 18/Mar/10

Wrong sequence, hard to read the route onsight I think. Felt ok once I figured it out after a couple of falls though. Quality route.
AlistairB - Lead dog - 14/Mar/10 with Qisheng Xie

markalmack - Lead rpt - 13/Mar/10 with jacqui savage

spoony84 - Lead RP - 2010

ground up with 1 fall, tricky and excellent.
whereismyfishyfishfish - Lead - 13/Dec/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/09

Hard and painful!
petellis - Lead dnf - 31/Oct/09 with Luke

3rd attempt, hard!
david morse - Lead RP - 17/Oct/09 with lole

More awkward than expected. Place high runner then truck on.
Dave Warburton - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/09 with HuwGoodal

My hands popped from the widening top of the crack, leaving a fairly large part of the back of my right hand behind. So close. Too pumped to make it on the 2nd attempt.
lrandall - Lead dnf - 14/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Sep/09

Alex Winter - Lead - 05/Sep/09 with C. Prescott

jonka - Lead - Sep/09 with sean

ouch!
markalmack - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09 with gregg capon

Hidden - 2nd dog - 23/Aug/09

al99 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - 2nd - 22/Aug/09 with Al Benson

mark sadler - TR - Aug/09 with gareth

Slippery finger jams!
ebf - TR dog - 22/Jul/09 with Woody

Discodan - TR dog - 09/Jul/09 with Dan Mc

Tim W - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Jamie Moss

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Apr/09

i'll come back when i can lead it
good_value - TR dnf - 11/Apr/09 with Rob S

Helen23 - 2nd - 10/Apr/09 with Ben Hirst

Easy for E1, not anywhere near E2.
joe larner - Lead rpt - 01/Apr/09

bugger... my jams just slipped out at the top onbly had to reach up and get the top hold :o( bad day!
Mattyk - Lead dnf - 01/Apr/09 with Dominick Spracklen

Hidden - Lead β - 24/Jan/09

McDan - Lead - 2009 with dan miller

vertical worm - 2nd - 2009

chiverstom - Lead dnf - 02/Nov/08 with Dave Turner

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/08

liam - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/08 with JP, Big Jon, Nikki

datoon - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/08 with K

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Aug/08

betamonkey - 2nd dog - 07/Aug/08 with Diarmuid Duggan

Fell from the top once last time I tried it. All led clean today.
Jack00 - Lead - 17/Jun/08 with Dean

Dan 85 - Lead dog - 16/Jun/08 with Heddwyn

chris2451 - TR RP - 11/Jun/08

maria85 - 2nd dog - 15/May/08 with Dave

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/May/08

This would be about VS for someone with fat fingers. Shame theres only two hard moves because theyre really good. Finger edge in the middle spoils it a bit too. fine route though.
joe larner - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/08 with Jess

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Feb/08

Hidden - TR - 09/Feb/08

JSA - 2008

Ian Parnell - Lead O/S - Nov/07 with Jon Winter

MikeLeeds - Lead - 14/Oct/07 with Gemma & SteveM

SteveM - 2nd rpt - 14/Oct/07 with Mike

Was really chuffed with this. My hardest true, onsight, trad gear lead. Didnt think I was going to make it as I slapped up to the top and screamed when I got it. Brilliant!
Will Hunt - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07 with Sean Jacobs

furry - Lead dog - 26/Sep/07 with SteveM

Finally plucked up the courage, in the cold and rain! E1 5c.
SteveM - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/07 with Steve Morley

Nice climbing, not much jamming though, as rattly fingers size widening to thin hands and finally some perfect jams. Bottom half of route is highly polished alas....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/07 with Rik

Following the leftwards sloping crack up 5 meters traverse right and attempt to finger jam up the verticle crack to the top. Need more practice at finger jamming. Tough final 4 metres or so.
Lumbering Oaf - 2nd dnf - Sep/07 with James Hoyes

just onsighted this - maybe the hardest E1 5c ive done anywhere or is my jamming not up to scratch? the difficulties are short-lived but E2 wouldnt sound silly for this. great wee route
ksjs - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/07 with mark

Hidden - 05/Aug/07

adi bryant - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Ian

mje1398 - 2nd dog - 31/Jul/07 with John M

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Jul/07

connor - Lead - 20/Jul/07 with simon holdsworth

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 20/May/07 with simon richardson

A real fight!
alaan - Lead rpt - 03/May/07 with Jim

MeMeMe - Lead - 29/Apr/07 with Simon

Benwa - 2nd dog - 02/Apr/07 with Alex Hyslop

Hidden - Feb/07

design crisis - Lead - 2007 with Tom W

Hidden - 2007

Dave Foster - TR dog - 2007

Hidden - TR - 13/Oct/06

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 25/Aug/06

John Kettle - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/06

DavidR - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/06 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 30/Jun/06

came here after something a little shorter than kilnsey, found it but this crack was quite slippery lost my 1.25 cam too it aswell which is annoying!!!!
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/06 with Steve Ramsden

Brown - 2nd - 11/May/06 with Ralph

reg_measures - 2nd O/S - 11/May/06 with timmy elson

alaan - Lead dog - 22/Jan/06

King Rat - 2nd O/S - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Kevster - 2006

Hidden - Lead dog - 2006

fell at least 12 times
Xav - Lead dog - 12/Nov/05

pretty easy just one short tricky section
WB - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/05 with Jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/05

Sean_J - Lead O/S - Apr/05

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/04 with Chris Bigger

Led free 1 year after a dogged seconding. Easy to fluff onsight I would suppose, but perseverance pays off through the crux as easier jams approach near the top
Cragrat Rich - Lead - Jun/04

Hidden - Lead - Jun/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/04

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 2004 with Chris Bigger

Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/03

Hidden - 2003

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Oct/02

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/Aug/02

rlrs - 2nd - 2002

shoulders - Lead - 13/Oct/01 with joules

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/99

MONKEY78 - 2nd - Sep/98 with William Wilson

jfmchivall - 1998