Rockfax Description
14m. The right-hand crack in the headwall looks innocuous enough but proves to be a struggle. Too fat for fingers and too thin for hands, you could always try and layback it. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, 50 cracks to Squamish, Allan Austin Classics, Work Hard, Play Hard, WideBoyz Crack School.

Tom McCabe 21/Nov 2nd dog

1 rest. Too cold, ran out of steam.

OERees 21/Nov Lead dog

So cold!

with Tom
scottcoates 30/Oct Lead O/S
with Martyn
metcalfe1990 ?/Oct -
Rachel Slater 29/Sep 2nd rpt
tim newton 29/Sep Lead O/S
climberchristy 26/Sep Lead O/S

Tricky top crack as it's loose for finger locks but not big enough for decent hand jams. Awkward but a good route.

with Ben Cole
Hidden 25/Sep Lead G/U
Jmpollard 25/Sep Lead G/U

Lobbed on the crack because I got my feet messed up, but went down and led the whole thing clean second go, well chuffed!

with Hamish
stev1e.wilso 22/Sep TR dnf
Hidden 20/Sep Lead rpt
Mike Todd 09/Sep Lead RP

Felt quite straight forward second time around.

with Harrogate MC
Sam Marks ?/Sep Lead G/U
cameron_hall 29/Aug 2nd dog
Teappleby 15/Aug Lead rpt

Nice to get it clean. Felt reasonably steady today, couple of ups and downs placing gear and then went for it!

with max
Hidden 29/Jun Lead rpt
adi bryant 24/Jun 2nd rpt
with Lee
Mike Todd 07/Jun Lead dog
with Helen Lawson
Hidden 03/Jun Lead O/S
daftendirekt 24/May 2nd dog

1 fall right near the top. Dang.

john lynch 23/May Lead O/S
with Dave Barber
davebrox 12/May -
jon22 10/May Lead
with Dave Garry, manxclare
Hidden 07/May Lead O/S
Palindrome 07/May 2nd
Hidden 03/May Lead dog
spragglerocks 22/Apr Lead dnf
with Dave C
DavidR 22/Apr Lead O/S

Did this a long time ago, so felt like doing it onsight again this evening. It's a lovely route!

lanky and weak 21/Apr Lead
with Lyndon Chatting-Walters
Hidden 21/Apr Lead rpt
Albert Exley 18/Apr Lead O/S

defiantly not E2...

with Jon
robertmctague 07/Apr Lead β

'retro' flash, had tried seconded it back when I first started climbing.

theomoore 07/Apr Lead G/U
scott quinn 06/Apr Lead dog

tough! Once you know how..

Tom.Priestley 06/Apr 2nd dog

Dogged to hell, difficult and steep. One to come back to.

Hidden ?/Jan -
Tim Rodgers 12/Oct/14 2nd dog

1 rest

with David Forster
Maddie 11/Oct/14 TR dog

Jamming practice! As suspected, didn't go too well

with Dan Hostford, Alun, Dan S, remus, Dennis999
Hidden 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Dan Hostford 11/Oct/14 2nd dog
Andy Moles 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Ferdia
ferdia 05/Oct/14 2nd
with Andy
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Olli-C 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S


gmatthew 11/Sep/14 Lead RP
Hannes B 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Danny
papashango 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S

hard for E1.

luke321 30/Aug/14 2nd
scarmichael 23/Aug/14 Lead dog

jam the first section of crack to break, layback finish

SteveM 05/Aug/14 TR
tsjx 05/Aug/14 2nd
with John Mc
Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Calum Wadsworth 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Nice bit of jamming. Pretty hard.

with Bruce
nick ferro 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Link cams! Thanks for the belay Ed. :)

Hidden 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Charlie Zephyr Booth 21/Jun/14 Lead dnf
with martin smith, martin broadhurst
shah ?/Jun/14 2nd dog


Rachel Slater 21/May/14 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete 20/May/14 Lead rpt
jon_gill1 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with ross garfoot
Hidden 05/May/14 2nd
rich.manterfield ?/May/14 Lead O/S
with George Nunn
Robb Bert ?/May/14 -
Hidden 23/Apr/14 Lead rpt
rikbattye 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S
fjg123 ?/Mar/14 Lead
Teappleby 09/Jan/14 Lead dnf

Got about halfway up the crack, but couldn't make the next moves, too pumped. Got a rope dropped and managed it, but still found it hard.

with max
watson23 ??/2014 Lead dog
with nat
ashtond6 24/Nov/13 Lead dog

completely hand size dependant, at the creek every green black diamond crack is 5.11. Felt grades harder than regent street, good one for those with small hands

alp79 24/Nov/13 2nd dog

Lovely climbing up to the crack, crack v hard even tho I have small hands, v polished and slightly overhanging. So many passers by commenting on the climbing!

aerobiee 01/Oct/13 Lead dog
Tim Bevan 01/Oct/13 2nd β
PaulTanton 29/Sep/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead
Jono_LS16 21/Sep/13 Lead
rob.grafton 10/Sep/13 2nd
thetradlad 16/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Finally clean!

Hidden 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/13 Lead dnf
nick ferro 20/Jul/13 Lead

Next time take selection of friends (1 to 2.5) for crack.

Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd dog
ebf 17/Jul/13 Lead dog

Gosh, this is hard!

Dino Dave 16/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Fin, Kirsty
Dino Dave 12/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Dad
Paul Collins ?/Jul/13 Lead dnf
MikeLeeds 19/Jun/13 2nd rpt
thetradlad 26/May/13 Lead dog

With just one fall. Got the sequence now... Interesting Belay from Jack

Mowglee 25/May/13 Lead dog
with Huw
Mowglee 25/May/13 2nd O/S
with Ed Hutchings
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead β
Hidden 22/May/13 2nd
kyaizawa 05/May/13 Lead dog

Not my preferred style of climbing... pumped out on the crux crack and rested on gear by the horizontal break - annoyed because next few moves were straight forward and solid (thin) hand jams!! Will be back to do it clean!!

alexm198 05/May/13 2nd dog

Strenuous. Totally zapped by the time I got to the top - barely had the strength to mantel up!

Dino Dave 01/May/13 Lead O/S
with Will, Sam
samthom 01/May/13 2nd dog


with Dave
John Gale ??/2013 TR
Tenko ??/2013 -
Seymore Butt ??/2013 -
LeeBarnes ??/2013 TR
samwillo 10/Dec/12 Lead
with Stefan Genet, Thomas Shaw
stefelafel 10/Dec/12 2nd dog

First proper crack climb, definite enjoyment.

Goose4 05/Nov/12 Lead
Hidden 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
samrad 04/Oct/12 Lead O/S

would probably be 5.9 in the US ;)

with Bennykr
thetradlad ?/Oct/12 Lead dog
with Annie Byass-Clark
adamwesthead 22/Sep/12 Lead dog

Two real falls just as my fingers were getting over the lip of the only hand hold, two rests but did all the moves. Shaking like a leaf up the final jams. Glad its done though.

with Zeb
mikecollins 15/Sep/12 Lead dog
with Laura D
riven 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Mike
adamwesthead 08/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Few little falls and lots of hanging around. Not strong enough yet with jams

with Zeb
adamwesthead 08/Sep/12 2nd dog

Zeb used my gear and finished it with one fall

with Zeb
zebster 08/Sep/12 2nd dog
with Adam
Hidden 07/Sep/12 Lead dog
RFWilkie 31/Jul/12 2nd dog

Desperately slippy

with Mark
Thinker01 31/Jul/12 Lead dog

horrible, horrible....

with Ralph Wilkinson
horsefeathers 15/Jul/12 2nd dog
with Lukas
derico 26/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Quality route, pretty hard for an E1!

with Sam & Billy
MarkRoe 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Nickster ?/Jun/12 AltLd dog
monkeyman79 30/May/12 TR dog

Took 4 rests to realise that it is too polished to jam (too narow for hands, too wide for fingers). Feels more like E2!! Jam, layback, rest on crimps and then layback to the top. Pumpy!

with Dan Giblin
Matt Harle 27/May/12 Lead O/S
RossKirtley 13/May/12 Lead RP
Morgan P 21/Apr/12 TR dog

GREAT climb. Committing, scary (if wasn't on top rope) and an awesome feeling when you get to the top of it. Crazy laybacking with feet walking up the edge of the finger width crack. Fell half way up final crack as foot slipped.

jacktomlinson 21/Mar/12 2nd dog
efrance24234 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 26/Feb/12 Lead β
with Rosh
lanky and weak ?/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 TR RP
Hidden ??/2012 -
cat22 22/Oct/11 2nd
with Mike
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead dog
jacobjacob 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
mike bridges 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S

sprinted for the top once I decided to "go for it"

rowanrs 23/Sep/11 TR rpt

Managed a clean ascent mainly with a lay back and good toe position. More practice needed for lead though.

with Paul Connor
Ewan Russell 15/Sep/11 Lead

failed to second this years ago. Clean today

adamwesthead 09/Sep/11 2nd dog

Came off on the very last hand jam. Almost got in clean. Good lead Zeb. Was his third and attempt and took 3 falls this time.

with Zeb
zebster 09/Sep/11 Lead dog

third attempt and i finally did it with 3 falls but i got there:) very hard!!

with Adam
pie_eater_pete 30/Aug/11 Lead rpt
dannyboy83 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Kevster 14/Aug/11 Lead β
Pike 14/Aug/11 TR dnf
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Aug/11 TR dog
Cake 01/Aug/11 Lead RP

Kind of ground-up. I did it second time, but only came down to the easy bit of Josephine. Probably E1, but I couldn't do it on-sight

with Matt
thetradlad 31/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Another few airmiles. Well and truly dogged but ran out of time to finish.

Hidden 14/Jul/11 Lead
Pete Scott 11/Jul/11 Lead dog

Awesome whipper! Face first plummet!

Hidden 17/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
CragDog 11/Jun/11 2nd
with Ben
Graeme Hammond 30/May/11 Lead O/S
with Becky E
Becky E 30/May/11 2nd O/S
David Kay 27/May/11 Lead dnf
with Aaron O'Leary
Peter Holder 02/May/11 Lead
with TOm Charnock
Hidden 19/Apr/11 2nd dog
RyanC 16/Apr/11 2nd dog
Laurence Everitt 02/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Mar/11 Lead dnf
keith leonard ??/2011 Lead dog

took a whipper from the top!

Hidden 07/Nov/10 2nd dog
d_meacher 07/Nov/10 Lead dog
with Dave Roberts (Flash), Tim Ashlin
JJJunior 13/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 11/Oct/10 Lead
roberto18 04/Oct/10 Lead O/S

excleent climbing, and much easier than I expected. There is no way any of the moves are 5c!

ewen 21/Sep/10 Lead dog
with neil stabbs
Hidden 12/Sep/10 -
chris sm 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/10 2nd
John Brayshaw 05/Sep/10 TR dog

Too hard for me

with Josh
jcurrie93 05/Sep/10 TR dog
akhughes 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
PeteH 30/Aug/10 Lead β

Led on gear from Noel's efforts.

adamwesthead 31/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Neither me or Zeb could do it. Ended up hanging on a no. cam. Need to learn to finger jam better.

with Zeb
zebster 31/Jul/10 Lead dnf
with Adam
petellis 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S


Chriswallis2 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Pete
lrandall 26/Jun/10 2nd

Up after Christoph. Took three attepts to reach the hold 2/3rds up the crack (which I reached first attempt on lead earlier in the day) and then blizted the upper hand jams which I couldn't commit to on lead. Arghhhhh!

with Christophe
lrandall 26/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Pissed! Made it to the small hold 2/3rds up the crack with no real difficulty but my balls shrank/ head froze and I couldn't commit to the upper hand jams. Played around on it for a bit arguing that, at the least, I could do with taking the falls on gear, but eventually lowered off. My head is seriously outta wack :(

with Flo
barni 07/Jun/10 Lead O/S
kitkat78 12/May/10 2nd dog
with Kev
Hidden 12/May/10 Lead dog
simon kimber 03/May/10 2nd
with Fabrizio Della Rossa
pastep 28/Apr/10 2nd dog
with ebf
Hidden 12/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead dog
dan gibson 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with michael porter
Harry Thorpe 27/Mar/10 Lead dog

Had to rest, one to come back for

with Mike Gadd
petegunn 18/Mar/10 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 18/Mar/10 2nd dog
AlistairB 14/Mar/10 Lead dog

Wrong sequence, hard to read the route onsight I think. Felt ok once I figured it out after a couple of falls though. Quality route.

with Qisheng Xie
markalmack 13/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with jacqui savage
spoony84 ??/2010 Lead RP
whereismyfishyfishfish 13/Dec/09 Lead

ground up with 1 fall, tricky and excellent.

Hidden 07/Nov/09 Lead O/S
petellis 31/Oct/09 Lead dnf

Hard and painful!

with Luke
david morse 17/Oct/09 Lead RP

3rd attempt, hard!

with lole
Dave Warburton 14/Oct/09 Lead O/S

More awkward than expected. Place high runner then truck on.

lrandall 14/Oct/09 Lead dnf

My hands popped from the widening top of the crack, leaving a fairly large part of the back of my right hand behind. So close. Too pumped to make it on the 2nd attempt.

Hidden 18/Sep/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/09 Lead dnf
Alex Winter 05/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 05/Sep/09 2nd
jonka ?/Sep/09 Lead
with sean
markalmack 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S


Hidden 23/Aug/09 2nd dog
al99 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
martinazando 22/Aug/09 2nd
mark sadler ?/Aug/09 TR
with gareth
ebf 22/Jul/09 TR dog

Slippery finger jams!

with Woody
Discodan 09/Jul/09 TR dog
with Dan Mc
Tim W 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Apr/09 Lead rpt
good_value 11/Apr/09 TR dnf

i'll come back when i can lead it

with Rob S
Helen23 10/Apr/09 2nd
with Ben Hirst
joe larner 01/Apr/09 Lead rpt

Easy for E1, not anywhere near E2.

Mattyk 01/Apr/09 Lead dnf

bugger... my jams just slipped out at the top onbly had to reach up and get the top hold :o( bad day!

with Dominick Spracklen
Hidden 24/Jan/09 Lead β
McDan ??/2009 Lead
with dan miller
vertical worm ??/2009 2nd
chiverstom 02/Nov/08 Lead dnf
with Dave Turner
Hidden 25/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
datoon 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with K
Hidden 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
clive-greenwood 20/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Shaw Brown 17/Aug/08 2nd
with Loz
betamonkey 07/Aug/08 2nd dog
with Diarmuid Duggan
Jack00 17/Jun/08 Lead

Fell from the top once last time I tried it. All led clean today.

with Dean
Dan 85 16/Jun/08 Lead dog
with Heddwyn
chris2451 11/Jun/08 TR RP
maria85 15/May/08 2nd dog
with Dave
Hidden 15/May/08 Lead dog
joe larner 15/Feb/08 Lead O/S

This would be about VS for someone with fat fingers. Shame theres only two hard moves because theyre really good. Finger edge in the middle spoils it a bit too. fine route though.

with Jess
Hidden 09/Feb/08 2nd
Hidden 09/Feb/08 TR
JSA ??/2008 -
fifth ??/2008 -
Ian Parnell ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
MikeLeeds 14/Oct/07 Lead
with Gemma & SteveM
SteveM 14/Oct/07 2nd rpt
with Mike
Will Hunt 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Was really chuffed with this. My hardest true, onsight, trad gear lead. Didnt think I was going to make it as I slapped up to the top and screamed when I got it. Brilliant!

with Sean Jacobs
furry 26/Sep/07 Lead dog
with SteveM
SteveM 26/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Finally plucked up the courage, in the cold and rain! E1 5c.

with Steve Morley
Chad123 17/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Nice climbing, not much jamming though, as rattly fingers size widening to thin hands and finally some perfect jams. Bottom half of route is highly polished alas....

with Rik
Lumbering Oaf ?/Sep/07 2nd dnf

Following the leftwards sloping crack up 5 meters traverse right and attempt to finger jam up the verticle crack to the top. Need more practice at finger jamming. Tough final 4 metres or so.

ksjs 21/Aug/07 Lead O/S

just onsighted this - maybe the hardest E1 5c ive done anywhere or is my jamming not up to scratch? the difficulties are short-lived but E2 wouldnt sound silly for this. great wee route

with mark
Hidden 05/Aug/07 -
adi bryant ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ian
mje1398 31/Jul/07 2nd dog
with John M
Hidden 28/Jul/07 Lead dog
connor 20/Jul/07 Lead
with simon holdsworth
Toby Dunn 20/May/07 Lead O/S
with simon richardson
alaan 03/May/07 Lead rpt

A real fight!

with Jim
MeMeMe 29/Apr/07 Lead
with Simon
Hidden 04/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Benwa 02/Apr/07 2nd dog
with Alex Hyslop
Hidden ?/Feb/07 -
design crisis ??/2007 Lead
with Tom W
Hidden ??/2007 -
Dave Foster ??/2007 TR dog
Hidden 13/Oct/06 TR
Rob Davies ?/Sep/06 TR dog

Desperate finish

with Phil Ashton
Hidden 25/Aug/06 2nd dnf
John Kettle 23/Jul/06 Lead O/S
DavidR 30/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/06 2nd rpt
Alex Mason 07/Jun/06 Lead O/S

came here after something a little shorter than kilnsey, found it but this crack was quite slippery lost my 1.25 cam too it aswell which is annoying!!!!

Brown 11/May/06 2nd
with Ralph
reg_measures 11/May/06 2nd O/S
with timmy elson
alaan 22/Jan/06 Lead dog
King Rat ??/2006 2nd O/S
Karl Bromelow ??/2006 -
Kevster ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2006 Lead dog
Xav 12/Nov/05 Lead dog

fell at least 12 times

WB 27/Jul/05 Lead O/S

pretty easy just one short tricky section

with Jim
Hidden 27/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Sean_J ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog 21/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Chris Bigger
Cragrat Rich ?/Jun/04 Lead

Led free 1 year after a dogged seconding. Easy to fluff onsight I would suppose, but perseverance pays off through the crux as easier jams approach near the top

Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead
Hidden 21/Feb/04 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Chris Bigger
Hidden ?/May/03 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden 09/Oct/02 2nd
Hidden 24/Aug/02 Lead dog
rlrs ??/2002 2nd
shoulders 13/Oct/01 Lead
with joules
Hidden 21/Aug/99 Lead O/S
GeoffG 29/Apr/99 Lead
DavidEvans ?/Sep/98 2nd
with William Wilson
nickdonohue 11/Aug/98 Lead dog

fell on crux, then finished. Hard, good learning

with Kim Clark
Chris Reid 17/Jun/98 Lead O/S
jfmchivall ??/1998 -
OriginalGeckoboy ??/1998 -
plain kitten ??/1998 -
nai 24/Aug/97 Lead
with Alastair
Hidden ??/1997 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Oct/96 Lead O/S
innes ?/Oct/96 Lead O/S
with CJ
jcw 09/Jun/96 -
with Martin Harris
Roget 27/May/95 Lead rpt
with jon
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/Apr/95 2nd
with Martin Reynard
rob.grafton 02/Apr/95 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden ?/Feb/95 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 21/Mar/94 2nd rpt
with David
ian caton ??/1994 Lead
with dave
John Southworth 27/Oct/93 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 21/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
crater 12/Jul/93 2nd
rob.grafton 25/May/93 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden 23/May/93 Lead
Rich Kirby 12/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
Hidden ??/1992 -
Andy Fielding 14/Sep/91 2nd
with Mark Lardner
rob.grafton 24/Jul/90 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden 27/Jul/89 Lead RP
Rich Kirby ??/1989 AltLd O/S
Bruce Kerr 17/Sep/88 Lead
with Mike Boyle
Chris Ellis 18/Jun/88 2nd
with Trevor Lilley
shark 02/Sep/87 2nd
with Graeme Telfer
Tim Bateman 24/Nov/85 Lead
Tim Bateman 11/May/85 2nd
Hammy 12/Feb/84 TR
Dave Musgrove 02/Jul/83 Lead rpt
c8 ?/Jun/82 Solo
Andy Say 01/Apr/82 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/82 Lead
Dave Musgrove 12/Jul/81 Lead
Hidden ??/1975 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Lenny, Hidden, Gordon W, theomoore, pedrosanpb, Hidden, PebblePusher, Jonathan Rhoderick, Morgan P, Hidden, Haighy, Tom Keaveny, Hidden, Jordan Senior, derekb, Hidden, Brendan, Hidden, ebf, Hidden, Hidden, RedFox, alexyoung, Peter Smith, RichT, Hidden, mattyork2, petellis, Hidden, betamonkey, Mike H, Hidden, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 51
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 68
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set