A lot of very engaging climbing, tricky to figure out in places and enough of a gap between the gear placements to really focus the mind. A good challenge though, thoroughly enjoyed.Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/14 with Martin Bazley, David Bradbrook
marsden.d.paul - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Tom Blight
lovely route. great gear but some decent spans inbetween. will be back for a shorter & less shaky ascent!
thomb - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Paul
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/14 with Ygraine, Greg Clarke
gregclarke - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Brian
easily in my top 10. WHAT a climb! Gave me that buzz I've been needing for so long.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/14 with Deepstar
Part of the slab at the bottom has peeled off.
ian d f - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/14 with Pete H
Oddjob - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Rosie
rosame85 - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Oddjob
Bit run out at the crux but thought there was plenty of gear. By far one of the best climbs in the quarry and possibly one of the best climbs i have ever done.
zcsharp - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Camilla
Needs a good clean and some mud removed, Use caution if you want the on-sight in its current state.
MoWalker3 - TR O/S - 16/Mar/14
Camilla Mapstone - 2nd O/S - Mar/14 with Jamie
Matt Amos - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/13
Kevster - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Lizzie
loved it great climb, tricky in places, had it all!
bigtimematty - TR - 25/Aug/13 with marc fenton
Awesome moves on almost nothing.
Echna - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Andy
Very run out.... Good gear at roughly 3rd intervals.... Very crimpy and technical - best climb at Fairy Cave!
AndyF - Lead RP - 26/Jul/13 with Ian G
Fell off moving up to bomber gear on left just before
the headwall! That was it, head went and down climbed!
I'll be back :)
brew_guru - Lead dnf - 30/Jun/13 with El Peamundo
jon_ridley - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Geoff Pyatt
grp - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with jon_ridley
Fantastic route - but not E3 - loads of (small)gear can be found...
evhall - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/13 with colin
felt really good
kirsten - 2nd - 21/Apr/13 with Brian
As always, an exciting lead! There's a run out section on the first bit of the upper wall that seemed longer than I remembered. Perhaps I missed a nut slot.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 21/Apr/13 with Kirsten
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 15/Apr/13 with Shunt
A tremendous pitch with excellent slab climbing, mostly on positive edges. A good bold section in the middle. I went slighty right then back left to the crystalline pockets. Straight up from these then back left to gain the crack. One of the best slab pitches i've done, superb :)
petegunn - Lead - 08/Apr/13 with Davina
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/13
Hidden - TR O/S - 18/Mar/13
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/12
LukeyG - Lead - 03/Sep/12
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/12
Good lead by Dale, was E4 in our guide but its no where near E4.
SGD - 2nd - 26/Aug/12 with Dale
theocelano - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Ben
First E3 lead...Found a sneaky micro wire (0.5 red) placement behind a flake on the headwall just below and to the right of the crack. Probably wouldn't take a massive load but was nice for reassurance when making the final move from the sustained 5b climbing to get established in the crack. I wasn't sure how to log this route though as I actually top-roped it about 4 months ago, however I took a different line through the crux and on to the headwall (to the right so more like TDRV). Also, I didn't have any knowledge of gear placement. Clean and beta (moves not gear) suits me fine :)
ben.richards - Lead β - 23/Aug/12 with Theo Celano
BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Tom
Damn good. Felt E3 to me - a grade harder than Stepping out.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Becca
Got the old guide, already climbed the E3 stepping out found it easy so went for this E4. What a lovely route it all flowed very well, didn't find it hard. I agree with the new regarde E3 is write quite sustained slab climbing with interesting run outs but brilliant gear.
Dale - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with stu
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead - 17/Jul/12 with DeDe
mikeyjbs - Lead - 15/Jul/12 with Roger Hamilton-Smith
A pleasure to second this route.
riddle - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Mike Stephenson
bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 28/May/12 with Rick
BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Will Wykes
Felt every bit E4 as the small crimps and foot holds started to disintegrate at the top of the run out.
LJC - Lead RP - 12/May/12 with Tom, ben.richards
Nice delicate climbing with just enough holds in the right places. Was considering giving it a go on lead after Luca but when he started pulling holds off I lost the urge! Maybe another day...
ben.richards - TR O/S - 12/May/12 with Tom Foote, Luca Celano
Not E4 but really good
Bristoldave - Lead β - 29/Mar/12 with Dawlish
returned so dave could lead it
Dawlish - 2nd β - 29/Mar/12 with Bristoldave
Great climb! E3 is about right
robbie Warke - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Paula Warke
By the time I got to the top we had run out of time, so the I had to abb' back down and strip the gear.Got to thank Dave who gave up his lead on Four steps to Heaven so i could do this - then he didn't get to climb as i took so long.
Dawlish - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/12 with leadballoon, Bristoldave
j miller - Lead O/S - 2012
Definitely not E4, managed to scrape my way up despite being pretty greasy in parts, dirty and cold. Felt solid E3.
saintlade - 2012
Really enjoyable lead - thanks to Paul Robertson for beta
Jon Didymus - Lead β - 04/Sep/11 with Rich
Intense climbing, great route. Certainly not E4, just a superb E3
riddle - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Yasmina
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 28/Apr/11 with Shunt
A great route apart from the first 8 meters. Fairly sustained all the way.
guy xavier percival - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with clare
bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 19/Mar/11 with Guy, Clare
To check whether rockfall has affected the grade. It hasn't. E3 5c.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 31/Jan/11 with Shunt
Phil PBC - AltLd O/S - Sep/10 with henry castle
I found it hard, but made it up with only one small slip. I cannot comment on the grade because before today the hardest I had seconded was HVS 5a. Lovely climb - great for improving footwork.
SharonC1604 - 2nd - 30/Aug/10
karenhh - 2nd - 30/Aug/10
E3 5c seems right.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Aug/10 with Clare
Pretty sustained with just enough gear, E3 and a surprisingly good route.
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/10
Paul Robertson - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with Daniel Robertson
Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/10
Not a chance that this is E4... I got up it! Pretty run oout though!
hardoreVdiffBen - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/10 with Remus
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Anna, Graham Charman
Graham C - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Marti
tobydunford - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Ben Smith
upontop - TR - 01/Jun/09 with Chris
timharrison - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Matt Perks
ian d f - Lead - 2008
Sam Pictor - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/07 with Dad
Paul Robertson - 2nd rpt - 14/Oct/07 with Pylon King
The Pylon King - Lead β - 14/Oct/07 with Paul Robertson
OK maybe not E4, but still not a safe climb, and not a pushover.
bpmclimb - Lead β - 07/Oct/07 with Clare
upontop - TR - Apr/07 with Chris
Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06
thrutch - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/06 with mel and chris
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/06
Runner placements continue to improve with traffic.
Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/06 with Ben Friedland
Good route but kept expecting it to be more run out than it was given the grade and hence over-protected it (4 runners instead of 3)
KRB - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/05 with Chris & Martin
Tim Steward - Lead - 16/Jun/04 with Molly Thompson
mol - 2nd - 16/Jun/04 with Timmy
Paz - Lead - May/04 with AS
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/03
cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/03
Hidden - Jun/00