Moving Target*** E3 5c
[Nick following up Moving Target, E3 5c, Fairy Cave Quarry, 2 kb]38m. Terrific stuff! Climb up to and through a distinctive, large, eye-shaped rockfall scar; then climb up and right to wide cracks (good gear). Move up boldly leftwards (crux) to below the headwall. Move up onto the headwall and place good wires (with some relief). Climb the line of the crack to the top, via some thoroughly absorbing, sustained 5b climbing.
S Franklin, D Targett

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Photo: Nick following up Moving Target, E3 5c, Fairy Cave Quarry © Jon Didymus
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This climb is in 115 logbooks, and on 22 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/15

Hidden - TR O/S - 01/Oct/15

Sustained and brilliant, fairly well protected too. Bring lots of small wires!
jsmcfarland - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/15 with Oli Hawk

Fatclimber - TR β - 01/Aug/15 with Ivanator

If there was a 5c move on this then I missed it. Nice climbing, gear looked spaced but adequate, E2 5b?
The Ivanator - TR O/S - 01/Aug/15 with Steve W

Thin section in the middle is the crux
clipskipper - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/15

Nice crystals!
AlexD - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/15 with Lee Mercer

Sam4242 - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/15

Mayaculpa - 2nd dog - 27/Jun/15 with Michael H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/15

Felix Ottey - 2nd rpt - 21/Jun/15

Wevcore - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/15 with Rich

Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/15 with Kev Brown

smartydh9 - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/15

lukerathmell - TR - 28/May/15 with Dom, emma holland

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/15

Neil Gay - 2nd rpt - 12/May/15 with joeurwin

First e3 (headpoint after top rope practice). Really lovely climb, exciting run-out on the headwall, absorbing climbing. Hooray!
joeurwin - Lead RP - 12/May/15 with afrosam, Neil Gay

Great route! After being recommended it I thought... might as well give it a bash. Lovely climbing and an enjoyable run out (although I may have been able to place another bit of gear however I only saw that on the ab back down).
climbEdclimb - Lead O/S - 12/May/15 with Adam Bloch

Paul Baller - Lead RP - 18/Apr/15 with matt stevens

Paul Baller - TR O/S - 15/Apr/15 with matt stevens

Gear placements are all cleaned out for anyone looking for the onsight.
saintlade - Lead RP - 07/Apr/15

Neil Gay - TR O/S - 04/Apr/15 with joeurwin

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 12/Oct/14 with Ted Lister

Hidden - TR - Sep/14

A lot of very engaging climbing, tricky to figure out in places and enough of a gap between the gear placements to really focus the mind. A good challenge though, thoroughly enjoyed.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/14 with Martin Bazley, David Bradbrook

marsden.d.paul - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Tom Blight

lovely route. great gear but some decent spans inbetween. will be back for a shorter & less shaky ascent!
thomb - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Paul

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/14 with Ygraine, Greg Clarke

gregclarke - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Brian

easily in my top 10. WHAT a climb! Gave me that buzz I've been needing for so long.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/14 with Deepstar

Part of the slab at the bottom has peeled off.
ian d f - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/14 with Pete H

Oddjob - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Rosie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/14

Bit run out at the crux but thought there was plenty of gear. By far one of the best climbs in the quarry and possibly one of the best climbs i have ever done.
zcsharp - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Camilla

shunt. Needs a good clean and some mud removed, Use caution if you want the on-sight in its current state.
MoWalker3 - TR O/S - 16/Mar/14

Camilla Mapstone - 2nd O/S - Mar/14 with Jamie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2014

Matt Amos - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/13

Kevster - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Lizzie

loved it great climb, tricky in places, had it all!
Matthew Martin Wsm - TR - 25/Aug/13 with marc fenton

Awesome moves on almost nothing.
Echna - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Andy

Very run out.... Good gear at roughly 3rd intervals.... Very crimpy and technical - best climb at Fairy Cave!
AndyF - Lead RP - 26/Jul/13 with Ian G

Fell off moving up to bomber gear on left just before the headwall! That was it, head went and down climbed! I'll be back :)
brew_guru - Lead dnf - 30/Jun/13 with El Peamundo

jon_ridley - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Geoff Pyatt

grp - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with jon_ridley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/13

felt really good
kirsten - 2nd - 21/Apr/13 with Brian

As always, an exciting lead! There's a run out section on the first bit of the upper wall that seemed longer than I remembered. Perhaps I missed a nut slot.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 21/Apr/13 with Kirsten

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 15/Apr/13 with Shunt

A tremendous pitch with excellent slab climbing, mostly on positive edges. A good bold section in the middle. I went slighty right then back left to the crystalline pockets. Straight up from these then back left to gain the crack. One of the best slab pitches i've done, superb :)
petegunn - Lead - 08/Apr/13 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/13

Hidden - TR O/S - 18/Mar/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/12

LukeyG - Lead - 03/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/12

Good lead by Dale, was E4 in our guide but its no where near E4.
SGD - 2nd - 26/Aug/12 with Dale

theocelano - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Ben

First E3 lead...Found a sneaky micro wire (0.5 red) placement behind a flake on the headwall just below and to the right of the crack. Probably wouldn't take a massive load but was nice for reassurance when making the final move from the sustained 5b climbing to get established in the crack. I wasn't sure how to log this route though as I actually top-roped it about 4 months ago, however I took a different line through the crux and on to the headwall (to the right so more like TDRV). Also, I didn't have any knowledge of gear placement. Clean and beta (moves not gear) suits me fine :)
ben.richards - Lead β - 23/Aug/12 with Theo Celano

BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Tom

Damn good. Felt E3 to me - a grade harder than Stepping out.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Becca

Got the old guide, already climbed the E3 stepping out found it easy so went for this E4. What a lovely route it all flowed very well, didn't find it hard. I agree with the new regarde E3 is write quite sustained slab climbing with interesting run outs but brilliant gear.
Dale - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with stu

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead - 17/Jul/12 with DeDe

mikeyjbs - Lead - 15/Jul/12 with Roger Hamilton-Smith

A pleasure to second this route.
riddle - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Mike Stephenson

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 28/May/12 with Rick

BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Will Wykes

Felt every bit E4 as the small crimps and foot holds started to disintegrate at the top of the run out.
LJC - Lead RP - 12/May/12 with Tom, ben.richards

Nice delicate climbing with just enough holds in the right places. Was considering giving it a go on lead after Luca but when he started pulling holds off I lost the urge! Maybe another day...
ben.richards - TR O/S - 12/May/12 with Tom Foote, Luca Celano

Not E4 but really good
Bristoldave - Lead β - 29/Mar/12 with Dawlish

returned so dave could lead it
Dawlish - 2nd β - 29/Mar/12 with Bristoldave

Great climb! E3 is about right
robbie Warke - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Paula Warke

By the time I got to the top we had run out of time, so the I had to abb' back down and strip the gear.Got to thank Dave who gave up his lead on Four steps to Heaven so i could do this - then he didn't get to climb as i took so long.
Dawlish - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/12 with leadballoon, Bristoldave

j miller - Lead O/S - 2012

Definitely not E4, managed to scrape my way up despite being pretty greasy in parts, dirty and cold. Felt solid E3.
saintlade - 2012

Really enjoyable lead - thanks to Paul Robertson for beta
Jon Didymus - Lead β - 04/Sep/11 with Rich

Intense climbing, great route. Certainly not E4, just a superb E3
riddle - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Yasmina

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 28/Apr/11 with Shunt

A great route apart from the first 8 meters. Fairly sustained all the way.
guy xavier percival - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with clare

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 19/Mar/11 with Guy, Clare

To check whether rockfall has affected the grade. It hasn't. E3 5c.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 31/Jan/11 with Shunt

Phil PBC - AltLd O/S - Sep/10 with henry castle

I found it hard, but made it up with only one small slip. I cannot comment on the grade because before today the hardest I had seconded was HVS 5a. Lovely climb - great for improving footwork.
SharonC1604 - 2nd - 30/Aug/10

karenhh - 2nd - 30/Aug/10

E3 5c seems right.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Aug/10 with Clare

Pretty sustained with just enough gear, E3 and a surprisingly good route.
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/10

For photos.
Paul Robertson - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with Daniel Robertson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/10

Not a chance that this is E4... I got up it! Pretty run oout though!
hardoreVdiffBen - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/10 with Remus

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Anna, Graham Charman

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Marti

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Ben Smith

upontop - TR - 01/Jun/09 with Chris

timharrison - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Matt Perks

ian d f - Lead - 2008

Sam Pictor - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/07 with Dad

Paul Robertson - 2nd rpt - 14/Oct/07 with Pylon King

Urgles - Lead β - 14/Oct/07 with Paul Robertson

OK maybe not E4, but still not a safe climb, and not a pushover.
bpmclimb - Lead β - 07/Oct/07 with Clare

upontop - TR - Apr/07 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06

thrutch - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/06 with mel and chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/06

Runner placements continue to improve with traffic.
Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/06 with Ben Friedland

just one more - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/05 with pete g, tim b

Good route but kept expecting it to be more run out than it was given the grade and hence over-protected it (4 runners instead of 3)
KRB - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/05 with Chris & Martin

Tim Steward - Lead - 16/Jun/04 with Molly Thompson

mol - 2nd - 16/Jun/04 with Timmy

Paz - Lead - May/04 with AS

Hidden - Lead - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/03

cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/03

Hidden - Jun/00

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Bernie L, Paul Baller, smartydh9, Tom Harper, Motown, Phoebus, kenneM, squicky, Tom F Harding, brew_guru, Owen W-G, joeurwin, deklan, richardr, Ropeboy

Total votes cast 90
hard E40 of 24
E40 of 24
easy E40 of 24
hard E31 of 24
E315 of 24
easy E33 of 24
hard E24 of 24
E21 of 24
easy E20 of 24
hard 6a0 of 34
6a0 of 34
easy 6a0 of 34
hard 5c1 of 34
5c18 of 34
easy 5c14 of 34
hard 5b0 of 34
5b1 of 34
easy 5b0 of 34
3 Stars27 of 32
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