38m. Terrific stuff! Climb up to and through a distinctive, large, eye-shaped rockfall scar; then climb up and right to wide cracks (good gear). Move up boldly leftwards (crux) to below the headwall. Move up onto the headwall and place good wires (with some relief). Climb the line of the crack to the top, via some thoroughly absorbing, sustained 5b climbing.

S Franklin, D Targett

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

markfromstoke 20/May 2nd
with Ian
MoWalker3 14/May TR
with shunt
hands solo 08/May 2nd O/S
DaveX 07/May TR O/S

Clean on TR today, back for the lead soon.

Hidden 17/Apr Lead O/S
hutchay 02/Apr Lead O/S
miriamclaire 02/Apr 2nd RP
with hutchay
Hugobristol 25/Feb Lead O/S

Superb route. Gear is never really lacking and the moves do not exceed 5b (must be an E2!!)

with Tom C
petecallaghan 22/Nov/15 TR O/S
with Pete Belfield
jhobbs 22/Nov/15 TR O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/15 TR O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/15 TR O/S
jsmcfarland 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Sustained and brilliant, fairly well protected too. Bring lots of small wires!

Hidden 09/Aug/15 2nd
Fatclimber 01/Aug/15 TR β
The Ivanator 01/Aug/15 TR O/S

If there was a 5c move on this then I missed it. Nice climbing, gear looked spaced but adequate, E2 5b?

with Steve W
clipskipper 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Thin section in the middle is the crux

AlexD 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Nice crystals!

Sam4242 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 27/Jun/15 2nd dog
with Michael H
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Felix Ottey 21/Jun/15 2nd rpt
Wevcore 14/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Rich
Luxulyan 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Kev Brown
smartydh9 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead O/S
lukerathmell 28/May/15 TR
with Dom, emma holland
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead
Neil Gay 12/May/15 2nd rpt
joeurwin 12/May/15 Lead RP

First e3 (headpoint after top rope practice). Really lovely climb, exciting run-out on the headwall, absorbing climbing. Hooray!

with afrosam, Neil Gay
climbEdclimb 12/May/15 Lead O/S

Great route! After being recommended it I thought... might as well give it a bash. Lovely climbing and an enjoyable run out (although I may have been able to place another bit of gear however I only saw that on the ab back down).

with Adam Bloch
Paul Baller 18/Apr/15 Lead RP
with matt stevens
Paul Baller 15/Apr/15 TR O/S
with matt stevens
saintlade 07/Apr/15 Lead RP

Gear placements are all cleaned out for anyone looking for the onsight.

Neil Gay 04/Apr/15 TR O/S
AlexRenshaw 12/Oct/14 Lead
with Ted Lister
Hidden ?/Sep/14 TR
Quarryboy 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S

A lot of very engaging climbing, tricky to figure out in places and enough of a gap between the gear placements to really focus the mind. A good challenge though, thoroughly enjoyed.

with Martin Bazley, David Bradbrook
Hidden 03/Jul/14 2nd O/S
thomb 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S

lovely route. great gear but some decent spans inbetween. will be back for a shorter & less shaky ascent!

with Paul
bpmclimb 22/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Ygraine, Greg Clarke
gregclarke 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Brian
Stanners 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S

easily in my top 10. WHAT a climb! Gave me that buzz I've been needing for so long.

ian d f 11/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Part of the slab at the bottom has peeled off.

with Pete H
Oddjob 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Rosie
Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
zcsharp 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Bit run out at the crux but thought there was plenty of gear. By far one of the best climbs in the quarry and possibly one of the best climbs i have ever done.

with Camilla
MoWalker3 16/Mar/14 TR O/S

shunt. Needs a good clean and some mud removed, Use caution if you want the on-sight in its current state.

Camilla Mapstone ?/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Jamie
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
Matt Amos 11/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Kevster 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
Matthew Martin Wsm 25/Aug/13 TR

loved it great climb, tricky in places, had it all!

with marc fenton
Echna 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Awesome moves on almost nothing.

with Andy
AndyF 26/Jul/13 Lead RP

Very run out.... Good gear at roughly 3rd intervals.... Very crimpy and technical - best climb at Fairy Cave!

with Ian G
brew_guru 30/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Fell off moving up to bomber gear on left just before the headwall! That was it, head went and down climbed! I'll be back :)

jon_ridley 18/Jun/13 2nd O/S
grp 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
evhall 11/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic route - but not E3 - loads of (small)gear can be found...

with colin
kirsten 21/Apr/13 2nd

felt really good

with Brian
bpmclimb 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt

As always, an exciting lead! There's a run out section on the first bit of the upper wall that seemed longer than I remembered. Perhaps I missed a nut slot.

with Kirsten
bpmclimb 15/Apr/13 TR rpt
with Shunt
petegunn 08/Apr/13 Lead

A tremendous pitch with excellent slab climbing, mostly on positive edges. A good bold section in the middle. I went slighty right then back left to the crystalline pockets. Straight up from these then back left to gain the crack. One of the best slab pitches i've done, superb :)

with Davina
Hidden 08/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/13 TR O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/12 Lead O/S
LukeyG 03/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/12 2nd O/S
SGD 26/Aug/12 2nd

Good lead by Dale, was E4 in our guide but its no where near E4.

with Dale
theocelano 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Ben
ben.richards 23/Aug/12 Lead β

First E3 lead...Found a sneaky micro wire (0.5 red) placement behind a flake on the headwall just below and to the right of the crack. Probably wouldn't take a massive load but was nice for reassurance when making the final move from the sustained 5b climbing to get established in the crack. I wasn't sure how to log this route though as I actually top-roped it about 4 months ago, however I took a different line through the crux and on to the headwall (to the right so more like TDRV). Also, I didn't have any knowledge of gear placement. Clean and beta (moves not gear) suits me fine :)

BeccaSnowden 19/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Tom
thomasadixon 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Damn good. Felt E3 to me - a grade harder than Stepping out.

with Becca
Dale ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Got the old guide, already climbed the E3 stepping out found it easy so went for this E4. What a lovely route it all flowed very well, didn't find it hard. I agree with the new regarde E3 is write quite sustained slab climbing with interesting run outs but brilliant gear.

with stu
eddy-on-the-rocks 17/Jul/12 Lead
with DeDe
mikeyjbs 15/Jul/12 Lead
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
riddle 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S

A pleasure to second this route.

bpmclimb 28/May/12 2nd rpt
with Rick
BALD EAGLE 12/May/12 2nd
with Will Wykes
LJC 12/May/12 Lead RP

Felt every bit E4 as the small crimps and foot holds started to disintegrate at the top of the run out.

with Tom, ben.richards
ben.richards 12/May/12 TR O/S

Nice delicate climbing with just enough holds in the right places. Was considering giving it a go on lead after Luca but when he started pulling holds off I lost the urge! Maybe another day...

with Tom Foote, Luca Celano
Bristoldave 29/Mar/12 Lead β

Not E4 but really good

with Dawlish
Dawlish 29/Mar/12 2nd β

returned so dave could lead it

robbie Warke 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Great climb! E3 is about right

with Paula Warke
Dawlish 21/Feb/12 Lead O/S

By the time I got to the top we had run out of time, so the I had to abb' back down and strip the gear.Got to thank Dave who gave up his lead on Four steps to Heaven so i could do this - then he didn't get to climb as i took so long.

j miller ??/2012 Lead O/S
saintlade ??/2012 -

Definitely not E4, managed to scrape my way up despite being pretty greasy in parts, dirty and cold. Felt solid E3.

Didymus 04/Sep/11 Lead β

Really enjoyable lead - thanks to Paul Robertson for beta

with Rich
riddle 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Intense climbing, great route. Certainly not E4, just a superb E3

with Yasmina
bpmclimb 28/Apr/11 TR rpt
with Shunt
guy xavier percival 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

A great route apart from the first 8 meters. Fairly sustained all the way.

with clare
bpmclimb 19/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Guy, Clare
bpmclimb 31/Jan/11 TR rpt

To check whether rockfall has affected the grade. It hasn't. E3 5c.

with Shunt
Phil PBC ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
SharonC1604 30/Aug/10 2nd

I found it hard, but made it up with only one small slip. I cannot comment on the grade because before today the hardest I had seconded was HVS 5a. Lovely climb - great for improving footwork.

karenhh 30/Aug/10 2nd
bpmclimb 19/Aug/10 Lead rpt

E3 5c seems right.

with Clare
richiebongo 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Pretty sustained with just enough gear, E3 and a surprisingly good route.

Paul Robertson 08/Aug/10 Lead

For photos.

with Daniel Robertson
Hidden 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S
hardoreVdiffBen 02/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Not a chance that this is E4... I got up it! Pretty run oout though!

with Remus
Marti999 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Graham C 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Marti
tobydunford 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith
upontop 01/Jun/09 TR
with Chris
timharrison 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
Sam Pictor 29/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Dad
Paul Robertson 14/Oct/07 2nd rpt
Urgles 14/Oct/07 Lead β
with Paul Robertson
bpmclimb 07/Oct/07 Lead β

OK maybe not E4, but still not a safe climb, and not a pushover.

with Clare
upontop ?/Apr/07 TR
with Chris
Hidden 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
thrutch 03/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with mel and chris
Hidden 15/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Paul Robertson 08/Jun/06 Lead rpt

Runner placements continue to improve with traffic.

with Ben Friedland
just one more 07/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with pete g, tim b
KRB 16/Apr/05 Lead O/S

Good route but kept expecting it to be more run out than it was given the grade and hence over-protected it (4 runners instead of 3)

with Chris & Martin
Tim Steward 16/Jun/04 Lead
with Molly Thompson
mol 16/Jun/04 2nd
with Timmy
Paz ?/May/04 Lead
with AS
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Hidden 05/Jul/03 Lead O/S
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/00 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Pippa, Angrypenguin, Hidden, Hidden, petecallaghan, Bernie L, smartydh9, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Tom Harper, Motown, BFG, kenneM, Hidden, squicky, Tom F Harding, brew_guru, Owen W-G, joeurwin, Hidden, deklan, richardr, Hidden, Ropeboy
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 26
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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