22m. Start just right of the crack of Caveman and boldly climb the gnarled slab to the ramp and runners. Continue in the same line across the crack of Lunar Landscape, and make thin, bold moves to gain horizontal cracks. Continue more easily, but on increasingly vegetated graound, to saplings.

R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 19/Apr/2002

Hidden 11/Oct Lead rpt
Mayaculpa 10/Oct TR
with Richard T
Rob Morgan 26/Sep 2nd
with Win-yei
Win-yei 26/Sep Lead
with Rob
Chris Sieradzki 20/Sep 2nd O/S
with Hooo
Hooo 20/Sep Lead O/S

The guidebook doesn't say it's bold... There's no gear until the ramp! I was glad to have the mat. Probably not the best choice for a warm up on damp slimy rock. The runnel above the ledge was horrible, wet grass in everything.

redhead_climber 06/Sep 2nd O/S
felixizzy 16/Aug Lead rpt

Pretty sure this should be hvs considering there's no gear on the hard bits.

with Soph
Mayaculpa 08/Aug TR
with Nicki R, Tristan
Hidden 08/Aug 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug Lead O/S
lakeyross 19/Jul 2nd O/S

followed Jon boy up this one. It was Jon's first proper VS lead. well done mate. you love the slab now!

clipskipper 18/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul -
Sophie Nunn 18/Jul Lead O/S
with Scott
trevor macalonan 11/Jul Lead O/S
with Richy
Hidden 11/Jul 2nd O/S
cameron_hall 11/Jul 2nd O/S
91dave 11/Jul 2nd rpt
catty_9 17/Jun 2nd O/S
Angrypenguin 17/Jun Lead O/S
with Cat
miriamclaire 25/May Lead O/S
with hutchay
hutchay 25/May 2nd
with Miriam Billig
Hidden 17/May Lead
crater 17/May 2nd O/S
with steve
sideshow84 10/May Lead β

With pre placed gear.

cdpuk 10/May Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May 2nd
Hidden 10/May 2nd O/S
Fatclimber 04/May Lead O/S
Deako 04/May 2nd
Ollie Wickham 23/Apr Lead O/S
with Richard Mackie
markfromstoke 07/Apr Lead
with Luke
Echna 28/Sep/14 Solo rpt
with Dalinda, Rich
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Solo
Hidden 25/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
zcsharp 17/Aug/14 2nd
steve_gibbs 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
ian d f 07/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Steve Needs
91dave 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Went off route at the top as it started to rain.. made a beeline for trees to sling on the next route across.

with Hester Robertson, Kerry Mellor
Hidden 28/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
spenser 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
marsden.d.paul 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Phil AMC
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
lazzaw 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

A bold (if technically easy) start.

with Mick, Jonathan Cook
will_benfold 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Tim Culwick
bpmclimb 22/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Ygraine, Greg Clarke
gregclarke 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Brian
pheotleyr 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Jana
Hidden 12/Jun/14 2nd
winter hill1 02/Jun/14 Lead
wurzelinzummerset 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Ric
bonelessivar 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Alan
felixizzy 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Scary top out when the mud's wet but a good climb.

Adrian Daniels 05/May/14 2nd
with Steve Webster
bpmclimb 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Kirsten
kirsten 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Brian
RichyBOYY 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/14 Lead
mikehenesy 24/Nov/13 Lead

Soddin slab climbing, nowt to swing off, already backed off the one next to it. Actually it was bloody good, bring it on!

with Harriet
richardsavill 07/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Easty14 05/Oct/13 Lead
Hidden 25/Sep/13 Lead dnf
Dave Thompson 05/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Mark Lee
Ali.B 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with johnevans
johnl 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett, Andy Dunford
Adam Perrett 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

On preplaced gear

with Sarah Perrett
katemurphy_@hotmail 23/Aug/13 Lead
Lizzie Randall 11/Aug/13 2nd
with Wendy
fishinwater 11/Aug/13 Lead
with Chris W
wilf 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S

drifted R onto glacial point so retreated and finished up top half of caveman. stupid boy buy local guidebook.

with Tom
wurzelinzummerset 26/Jul/13 Lead rpt

No gear until you step onto the rising ramp.

with Ivan
The Ivanator 26/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Led on Alan's gear. Did the proper line this time.

with Alan
Hidden 24/Jul/13 Lead
wurzelinzummerset 15/Jul/13 2nd
with Ben
Cheese Monkey 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Much easier than its neighbour but still very good

with Alan
onlyfoddington 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

I think I may have strayed left on the final slab (after looking at the topo) - was pretty blank up there and massively run out above poor gear...

mick1jones 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

No gear for first 25 feet

with Mike Guttridge
jon bradley 12/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Tim Styles
timstyles 12/Jul/13 2nd rpt
beckett45 28/Jun/13 Lead
bpmclimb 19/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Richard
Hidden 24/May/13 Lead O/S
sonic46 05/May/13 Lead
kelliroberts3 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Luke Davies 24/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 19/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with Helen S
Nix33 ??/2013 -
LukeyG 19/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead rpt
MarkRyder 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Mark
Gibbo 17/Jun/12 Lead
with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison
katherinesydney 24/May/12 2nd O/S
with bill naylor, mike kann
Hidden 23/May/12 Lead
wurzelinzummerset 23/May/12 2nd
with Brian
bpmclimb 23/May/12 Lead rpt
with Alan
Hidden 16/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/12 2nd
Samuel P 16/May/12 2nd O/S
with Niels, Tommy
bpmclimb 02/May/12 Lead rpt

With the Caveman start, and gear in situ.

with Mick
Poco Loco 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Start is hard VS, after some gear is in its ok. Not sure if I was on route for the top half, the line is not too obvious. Fun nevertheless.

with R. Horler
Hidden 15/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead
bpmclimb 26/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 26/Mar/12 2nd
with Brian
Steve27 24/Mar/12 Lead
jpksalmon 10/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Actually did the first part of Caveman up the crack by accident. Attempted to lead but didn't get to the first ledge so Hannah lead it. Cloudy and started to drizzle a little bit.

with Hannah
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead
richiebongo 04/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
DreadyCraig 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Ivan B
The Ivanator 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Crux sequence moving up from the lunar landscape fault (through blankish section just below and right of the little sapling at two thirds height) is tricky and run out (I placed a side runner in what I think is the upper crack of Caveman, but was still facing a sizable pendulum slither) nearly came off when I committed to a move to an unexpectedly poor crimp. The hardest VS I've done at Fairy Cave, quite a bold start too. Addendum (in light of new guide) Turns out I did the start of JP and the upper section of Glacial Point (reckon the line I climbed was around E1 5b, I'm calling it the Jiggery Point variant). Worthwhile.

with Craig
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
timstyles 27/Jul/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead rpt
riddle 11/Jun/11 Solo O/S
carl_123 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with gaz
Hidden 01/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Dave Ing 29/May/11 Lead O/S
with Phil RAF
will909 21/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/May/11 2nd
blum 08/May/11 2nd O/S
with Tom Starks
jon bradley 04/May/11 Lead rpt
with Brian Vaughan
Will Gordon ?/May/11 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 27/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Clare
Hidden 26/Apr/11 Lead
will909 01/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd
bpmclimb 28/Mar/11 TR rpt

To check the line and measure the route. The logical line is to leave good holds and make a tricky 5a sequence diagonally left then up to the ledge. Top end VS 5a.

with Shunt
bpmclimb 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt

New description needed. Bold at start, and hard and bold leftwards crux to reach runnel.

with Tom 2
tommyt82uk 27/Mar/11 Lead dog

Really hard crux

Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead rpt
bpmclimb 31/Jan/11 TR rpt

To check the line. The runnel is a bit to the left of the start.

with Shunt
davenev 22/Jan/11 2nd O/S
with luke
Mr Tickle 22/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Definitly jigged and poked

with davenev
Dan Stel ??/2011 Lead
fletch73 ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Gibbo 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tom Gibbison
arandall 26/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Isaac Whitcombe
Hidden 19/Sep/10 2nd rpt
arandall 19/Sep/10 Lead β
crossdressingrodney 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with jon
Jonny M 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
stvredmond 30/Aug/10 2nd

weldone to rob on this one, the holds got quite small in the mid section, or was rob off route, either way its a toughey

Helnorris 30/Aug/10 2nd
Bobling 30/Aug/10 Lead

Thanks for the positive belaying Steve. Not : )

with Helen, sredmond
Hidden 15/Aug/10 TR
bpmclimb 05/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
Didymus 03/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Nick
Marti999 25/Jul/10 Lead β
Graham C 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Marti
kiwi boy 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S

great slab climbing like a rat up a drainpipe. recommended

with phil
Tom_Harding 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Gordy
Hidden 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Tom F Harding 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
andy dunn 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Alan
Hidden 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
JJMOZ 01/Jul/09 2nd
tobydunford 27/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Greg Pittam 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Amy Laverock
Chris Homewood (Swindon MC) 09/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/09 2nd O/S
AlexD 03/May/09 Lead O/S
joeurwin 03/May/09 2nd O/S
with alex & Dan Bruniges
Hidden 24/Aug/08 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Jul/08 2nd rpt
upontop 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 22/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 22/Jun/08 Lead
cas smerdon 11/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 11/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 08/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S
petegunn ??/2008 Lead
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 06/Oct/07 2nd
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead
Urgles 18/Sep/07 Solo
Matt Tranter 11/Aug/07 Lead
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead dog
Jen79 ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Matt Tranter
Ali3735 ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Andy M, Tim W
Matt Tranter 17/Jun/07 Lead
with Zelda Greyling
Dan B 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Bev
Hidden 18/Apr/07 Lead
Ybot Htulk ??/2007 2nd
with Steve
Hidden 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 03/Nov/06 2nd rpt
with Clare
Hidden 23/Sep/06 Lead O/S
The Mountain Goat 19/Sep/06 Lead dog

fell just short of runnel. Doh. Bashed up it strait after don't know why i fell off.

Somerset swede basher 19/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Jon Miles
Hidden 05/Sep/06 Solo O/S
just one more 09/Jun/06 Lead
with rich h, Max B
Paul Robertson 26/Apr/06 2nd O/S

Easier than it looks.

with Ben Friedland
bpmclimb 24/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Clare
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Davis
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/05 Lead
Hidden 09/Jun/05 2nd
James Moyle 01/May/05 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden 14/Sep/04 2nd
guy xavier percival 17/Aug/04 Solo O/S
with none
just one more 15/Jun/04 Lead
with karen b, Max B
just one more 29/May/04 Lead
with john + suzi, Max B
timstyles 13/May/04 Lead O/S

Started on Caveman either by accident or because the protection was better.

Paz ?/May/04 Lead
with AS
Urgles ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Francis Lickerish
Hidden 05/Jul/03 Lead O/S
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
petecallaghan, Hidden, jhobbs, Neil Watson
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 36
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set