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Jiggery Pokery* VS 5a

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[Tim Styles on Jiggery Pokery (VS 5a), Fairy Cave Quarry, 2 kb]22m. Start just right of the crack of Caveman and boldly climb the gnarled slab to the ramp and runners. Continue in the same line across the crack of Lunar Landscape, and make thin, bold moves to gain horizontal cracks. Continue more easily, but on increasingly vegetated graound, to saplings.
R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 19/Apr/2002

Photo: Tim Styles on Jiggery Pokery (VS 5a), Fairy Cave Quarry © timstyles
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 184 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/14

spenser - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14

marsden.d.paul - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/14 with Phil AMC

Scuzlebut - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Matt

A bold (if technically easy) start.
lazzaw - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14 with Mick, Jonathan Cook

will_benfold - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Tim Culwick

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/14 with Ygraine, Greg Clarke

gregclarke - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Brian

pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Jana

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jun/14

katz - Lead - 02/Jun/14

wurzelinzummerset - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/14 with Ric

bonelessivar - 2nd - 01/Jun/14 with Alan

Scary top out when the mud's wet but a good climb.
felixizzy - Lead O/S - 05/May/14

Adrian Daniels - 2nd - 05/May/14 with Steve Webster

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/14 with Kirsten

kirsten - 2nd - 19/Apr/14 with Brian

RichyBOYY - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Bradley Phelps

Hidden - Lead - 30/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/14

Steve Woollard - Lead - 19/Mar/14 with Samantha Roach

Soddin slab climbing, nowt to swing off, already backed off the one next to it. Actually it was bloody good, bring it on!
mikehenesy - Lead - 24/Nov/13 with Harriet

richardsavill - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/13 with Sarah Rowlands

Easty14 - Lead - 05/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Sep/13

Dave Thompson - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Mark Lee

Ali.B - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13 with johnevans

johnl - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett, Andy Dunford

On preplaced gear
Adam Perrett - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Sarah Perrett

katemurphy_@hotmail - Lead - 23/Aug/13

Lizzie Randall - 2nd - 11/Aug/13 with Wendy

fishinwater - Lead - 11/Aug/13 with Chris W

drifted R onto glacial point so retreated and finished up top half of caveman. stupid boy buy local guidebook.
wilf - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/13 with Tom

No gear until you step onto the rising ramp.
wurzelinzummerset - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/13 with Ivan

Led on Alan's gear. Did the proper line this time.
The Ivanator - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/13 with Alan

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/13

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 15/Jul/13 with Ben

Much easier than its neighbour but still very good
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/13 with Alan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13

No gear for first 25 feet
mick1jones - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Mike Guttridge

jon bradley - Lead rpt - 12/Jul/13 with Tim Styles

timstyles - 2nd rpt - 12/Jul/13 with Jon Bradley

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 19/Jun/13 with Richard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/13

sonic46 - Lead - 05/May/13

kelliroberts3 - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Peter Rigby

Luke Davies - Lead - 24/Apr/13

hms - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13 with Brian

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 19/Apr/13 with Helen S

Nix33 - 2013

LukeyG - Lead - 19/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Sep/12

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with James P

jamespilgrim - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Mark

Gibbo - Lead - 17/Jun/12 with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison

katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 24/May/12 with bill naylor, mike kann

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/12

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 23/May/12 with Brian

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 23/May/12 with Alan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 16/May/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/May/12

With the Caveman start, and gear in situ.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 02/May/12 with Mick

Start is hard VS, after some gear is in its ok. Not sure if I was on route for the top half, the line is not too obvious. Fun nevertheless.
Poco Loco - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with R. Horler

Steve Woollard - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with Joe Bellows

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/12

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/12 with Alan

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 26/Mar/12 with Brian

Steve27 - Lead - 24/Mar/12 with Luke Rathmell

Actually did the first part of Caveman up the crack by accident. Attempted to lead but didn't get to the first ledge so Hannah lead it. Cloudy and started to drizzle a little bit.
jpksalmon - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/11 with Hannah

Hidden - Lead - Oct/11

richiebongo - Solo O/S - 04/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11

DreadyCraig - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Ivan B

Crux sequence moving up from the lunar landscape fault (through blankish section just below and right of the little sapling at two thirds height) is tricky and run out (I placed a side runner in what I think is the upper crack of Caveman, but was still facing a sizable pendulum slither) nearly came off when I committed to a move to an unexpectedly poor crimp. The hardest VS I've done at Fairy Cave, quite a bold start too. Addendum (in light of new guide) Turns out I did the start of JP and the upper section of Glacial Point (reckon the line I climbed was around E1 5b, I'm calling it the Jiggery Point variant). Worthwhile.
The Ivanator - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Craig

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/11

timstyles - 2nd rpt - 27/Jul/11 with Brian Vaughan

cleggy - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/11 with Duncan, Nadine

riddle - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/11

carl_123 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with gaz

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/11

Dave Ing - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Phil RAF

will909 - Lead rpt - 21/May/11

Hidden - 2nd - 19/May/11

blum - 2nd O/S - 08/May/11 with Tom Starks

jon bradley - Lead rpt - 04/May/11 with Brian Vaughan

Will Gordon - Lead O/S - May/11 with Chris Jose

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 27/Apr/11 with Clare

Hidden - Lead - 26/Apr/11

will909 - Lead - 01/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/11

To check the line and measure the route. The logical line is to leave good holds and make a tricky 5a sequence diagonally left then up to the ledge. Top end VS 5a.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 28/Mar/11 with Shunt

New description needed. Bold at start, and hard and bold leftwards crux to reach runnel.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 27/Mar/11 with Tom 2

Really hard crux
tommyt82uk - Lead dog - 27/Mar/11 with Matt Williams

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/11

To check the line. The runnel is a bit to the left of the start.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 31/Jan/11 with Shunt

davenev - 2nd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with luke

Definitly jigged and poked
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/11 with davenev

Dan Stel - Lead - 2011

fletch73 - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Gibbo - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Tom Gibbison

arandall - 2nd rpt - 26/Sep/10 with Isaac Whitcombe

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/Sep/10

arandall - Lead β - 19/Sep/10 with remus knowles

crossdressingrodney - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with jon

Jonny M - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Oli Gray

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10

weldone to rob on this one, the holds got quite small in the mid section, or was rob off route, either way its a toughey
stvredmond - 2nd - 30/Aug/10 with Helen Norris, Robert Duerr

Helnorris - 2nd - 30/Aug/10 with Robert Duerr, Steve Redmond

Thanks for the positive belaying Steve. Not : )
Bobling - Lead - 30/Aug/10 with Helen, sredmond

Hidden - TR - 15/Aug/10

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/10 with Clare

Jon Didymus - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Nick

Marti999 - Lead β - 25/Jul/10 with Anna, Graham Charman

Graham C - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Marti

great slab climbing like a rat up a drainpipe. recommended
kiwi boy - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10 with phil

Tom_Harding - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Gordy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/09

Tom F Harding - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

andy dunn - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Alan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/09

JJMOZ - 2nd - 01/Jul/09 with Jonny Cooper

tobydunford - Solo O/S - 27/Jun/09

Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Amy Laverock

Chris Homewood (Swindon MC) - Lead O/S - 09/May/09 with Dan Jarman

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/May/09

AlexD - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with joeurwin

joeurwin - 2nd O/S - 03/May/09 with alex & Dan Bruniges

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 27/Jul/08

upontop - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Chris

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jun/08

cas smerdon - 2nd - 11/Jun/08 with Ian Jones

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/08

petegunn - Lead - 2008

ian d f - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead - 06/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead - 06/Oct/07

The Pylon King - Solo - 18/Sep/07

Matt Tranter - Lead - 11/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 04/Aug/07

Jen79 - 2nd - Aug/07 with Matt Tranter

Ali3735 - 2nd - Aug/07 with Andy M, Tim W

Matt Tranter - Lead - 17/Jun/07 with Zelda Greyling

Dan B - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Bev

Hidden - Lead - 18/Apr/07

Ybot Htulk - 2nd - 2007 with Steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 03/Nov/06 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/06

fell just short of runnel. Doh. Bashed up it strait after don't know why i fell off.
The Mountain Goat - Lead dog - 19/Sep/06 with Dom Sellers

Somerset swede basher - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/06 with Jon Miles

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/Sep/06

Easier than it looks.
Paul Robertson - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/06 with Ben Friedland

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/06 with Clare

mike kann - Lead O/S - 2006 with Steve Corner (SC)

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - 2006

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Chris Davis

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/05

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/05

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jun/05

James Moyle - 2nd O/S - 01/May/05

Hidden - 2005

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/04

guy xavier percival - Solo O/S - 17/Aug/04 with none

Started on Caveman either by accident or because the protection was better.
timstyles - Lead O/S - 13/May/04

Paz - Lead - May/04 with AS

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - May/04 with Francis Lickerish

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/03

cornishben - Lead - Jan/03

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Neil Watson

Voting
Total votes cast 78
hard HVS0 of 29
HVS2 of 29
easy HVS1 of 29
hard VS8 of 29
VS17 of 29
easy VS1 of 29
hard HS0 of 29
HS0 of 29
easy HS0 of 29
hard 5b0 of 28
5b0 of 28
easy 5b1 of 28
hard 5a0 of 28
5a15 of 28
easy 5a11 of 28
hard 4c1 of 28
4c0 of 28
easy 4c0 of 28
3 Stars0 of 21
2 Stars4 of 21
1 Star16 of 21
0 Stars1 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent

Soloed6 of 184 (3.3%)
Lead112 of 184 (60.9%)
Followed60 of 184 (32.6%)
Toproped3 of 184 (1.6%)
Unknown3 of 184 (1.6%)

'Climbed'64 of 184 (34.8%)
clean O/S85 of 184 (46.2%)
clean β2 of 184 (1.1%)
clean rpt28 of 184 (15.2%)
dogged4 of 184 (2.2%)
dnf1 of 184 (0.5%)