36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Stylish and exposed climbing up the left side of the buttress. Start on a belay ledge beneath a black-streaked groove.
1) 5a, 20m. From the left side of the ledge take a narrow, diagonal ramp out leftwards to two good hidden pegs at the base of a white wall. Climb the wall to another peg and then move up and left to a big quarry-spike just left of the arete. Move around to the left side of the arete and climb up over an overhang and belay below a rickety tree.
2) 4c, 16m. Move rightwards onto the face and make intricate moves right to the base of a shallow groove in the centre of the face. Climb the groove past a peg, all the way to a large tree at the top of the crag. Walk off or abseil from the tree. © Rockfax

G Lyne, T Taylor (pitch 1) 1963, F E Bennett (pitch 2), E Ward Drummond, W O R Hill (direct start) 1966

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Bristol 1st E1s.

Si Carter 31/Oct Lead O/S

Led as a single pitch. Above the first pegs took a bit of figuring out; the moves revealed themselves after I figured out where the 'white wall' (pink?) was - to the left of the upper peg. A fab route with some interesting moves. Amazing weather for the end of October.

with Colin Tiley
danmullett 26/Oct -
Hidden 27/Sep Lead
Hidden 06/Sep Lead O/S
kenneM 15/Jul 2nd O/S
with Felix
felixizzy 15/Jul Lead O/S
with Mike
Matt77 11/Jul AltLd O/S

Pitch one. I enjoyed this route. It was much less polished than I was expecting and the climbing was enjoyably balancey with a couple of tricky-but-not-too-taxing moves.

RyanOsborne 11/Jul AltLd


hutchay 27/Jun Lead O/S

Led the first pitch, seconded the 2nd.

with Lucas
Hidden 27/Jun Lead O/S
kenneM 15/Jun Lead O/S
with Caleb
Kemics 15/Jun 2nd rpt

Harder than I remembered!

with Mike
Hidden 07/May -
Hugobristol 28/Apr Lead O/S


with Sascha
andy dunn 20/Apr AltLd rpt
with J
Hidden 15/Mar Lead
Luxulyan 14/Mar Lead O/S
with Tim
tim.fairhall 14/Mar 2nd O/S
with Richard
mike lawrence? 06/Mar 2nd
with FatRob
Hidden 01/Oct/14 Lead
twem 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Enjoyable route

Hidden 16/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
andy dunn 15/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Darren, J
monsteratt 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Good climbing on both pitches. Nice route would recommend

with Nick Whimster
steve_gibbs 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
George Frisby 11/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Kevster 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Found it quite serious as I didn't trust the pegs much. Also thought it ws harder than zombogies.

with Josh Leak
Hidden 04/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
steve_gibbs 16/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
zcsharp 16/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 12/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Lots of top end 5a climbing on the first pitch and a bold start to the first peg. Proper E1 I'd say.

with Jana
Kemics 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S

abbed off after first pitch. Felt spicy but i'd missed a peg. Hardish 5a by pegs, as soon as you reach actual gear the climbing gets way easier.

with Neil
ruaidh 18/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

First pitch was manageable. Moves required some thought, so stiff for 5a I thought. Second pitch great value for money.

with Ben
James S 01/Jul/13 AltLd rpt

great fun as a 4! i led first pitch and tom the second.

with hannah, tom brum, dan
Dan0Me 01/Jul/13 AltLd
with Tom J, Hannah, James S
Cheese Monkey 14/Jun/13 AltLd rpt

p2 this time

with James S
James S 14/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

led first pitch. not too bold i thought so pretty low in the e1 grade

with ben darby
jonbwoy ?/Jun/13 -
Alex Winter 13/May/13 2nd O/S

Thought the climbing on the first pitch was really good.

with George
georgeevans88 13/May/13 Lead O/S

P1 a bit bold getting to the first peg. Good balance climbing.

HarryB 04/May/13 AltLd O/S


with Clay
Clay C 04/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Harry B
Hidden 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 26/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Lead p1. Reliance on pegs was concerning but good climbing

with Tim
tim newton 26/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
jas128 26/Apr/13 2nd β
Hidden 17/Mar/13 Lead rpt
jcw ??/2013 -
BeccaSnowden 29/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Tom
thomasadixon 29/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Becca
jon_ridley 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
kenneM ?/Sep/12 2nd
with Ed
Didymus 17/Jul/12 Lead O/S

p1 - v good

with Nick
Ed Babs 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

P1 - good

with Mike Kenne
Tim M 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg 17/Jun/12 2nd
tim_mcd 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with jelaby
clams ?/Jun/12 AltLd

lead P2

with PR
Pete Rigby 31/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led the first (5a) pitch. All on fixed gear but nice climbing after the first peg is clipped!

with Merlin March
Hidden 19/May/12 2nd
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead O/S
Quarryboy 08/Apr/12 2nd rpt

Even when seconding there is an aspect of this route which I still find scary.

with Henry Castle
Hidden 03/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
cbeard 03/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Nick Russell 15/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Wouldn't trust any of the pegs on P1, hence deserving of E1. Quarry spike and nut before the overhang would have held

with Martin
JRae 06/Nov/11 Lead
with Arthur, Jake Young
Jake Young 06/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Arthur, Johny R
Alan100 30/Oct/11 Lead

Run out traverse felt a bit worrying although all the moves were in balance so not desperate. Nice route.

Steve Winslow ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Fred_Richard 26/Jul/11 AltLd

Led P1, Andy P2. Mainly pegs on P1 and a long runout to the first one but relatively easy.

with Andy Mccoy
Hidden 26/Jul/11 AltLd
just one more 19/Jul/11 Lead
with Max B
_m.cox_ 12/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Steve Winslow, Tom Harrison
Quarryboy 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch, I think it is worthy of E1 just because of the scary start and run out between the first and second peg. Although the climbing is pretty easy.

Stanners 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Can see how first pitch start would have been scary with lack of gear and awkward sloping holds. Neither of us found second peg near the first though. Led second pitch, which was fantasticly exposed!

tommytuffa 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S

P1 only

with andy
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
gilbert 22/May/11 AltLd O/S

Great first pitch 3 stars for me! 2nd pitch mine - airy traverse for sure!

with Jonathan Percival
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead O/S
gripped01 ?/May/11 Lead
with Gilbert
Chris Sansum 17/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Chris P1, Gary P2.

with Gary Lewin
pezzerrr 17/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/10 Lead O/S
andy dunn 12/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Awesome 1st pitch - Probably the best individual pitch I've done on Main Wall so far...!! Convinced J that the 2nd pitch was well within him - and he seemed to enjoy it.

with J
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
alasdair19 ??/2010 -
ian d f 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
billb ?/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with Mike S
Hidden 13/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Paz 22/Oct/08 2nd rpt
with AM2
Hidden 04/Jul/08 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Jo Stadden
CarolineH 01/Mar/08 2nd O/S

Climbed it with 2 right rock shoes on.

with Joe
georgeevans88 06/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Bristoldave 02/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Led P1 24/06

with douglas
Hidden 02/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
Paz 30/Jan/08 AltLd rpt

Lead P2 in dusk.

with HA
Hidden 30/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
Alasdair88 11/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with Tom Kett
Al Franks 09/Nov/07 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

with Tom Kett
cornishben 12/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. Guidebook says 'scant protection'. Bold traverse at beginning of 1st pitch, but reasonably well protected after that

with Chris Sims
chris sm 12/Sep/07 AltLd rpt

Led P1. Most enjoyable. Very easy for E1. Gear is only "scant" for the first 20' on P1. After that it is fine. Left a bit far left at the top I think.

RedFox 07/Jun/07 Lead dog

A quickdraw aided retreat to a resting position...I'm suitably ashamed of myself. Seconded by a one-eyed, trainer-wearing, chalkless scary chap who kept taking photos of me.

with Tom K
Marti999 ?/Mar/07 -
Lev 07/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/06 Lead O/S
beardy mike ??/2006 2nd
with Rob Scheicl
Paz 23/Nov/05 AltLd rpt

Lead P2 which is surprisingly nice.

with JS
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
IceMonkey1982 ??/2005 -
Hidden 19/Jun/04 Lead β
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead O/S
Paz 22/Aug/03 AltLd O/S

I lead P1

with TS
chris sm 26/Jul/03 Lead rpt

P1 only due to rain.

DavidR 13/Apr/02 AltLd O/S
with Bruno Marks
KRB 25/May/01 Lead O/S
with Ken Padgett
John Southworth 04/Mar/01 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jun/00 AltLd
Hidden ??/2000 -
Gudge ??/2000 2nd O/S
with BUMC
AndySL 08/May/95 2nd O/S
with Jerry
chris sm 12/Mar/95 2nd O/S
with Andy Gill
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
NeilGriffiths 16/Oct/94 -
with Duncs
mark-abz 14/May/88 AltLd
with Andy W
sadams 21/Dec/86 AltLd
with Guy Townsend
JamieAyres ?/Sep/85 AltLd rpt

led the bottom pitch this time & Rob finished it. He drove his Toyota Hi-Lux almost to the bottom of the route.. well, the railings.

with Rob Parker
JamieAyres ?/Aug/85 AltLd O/S

HVS 5a then! Led top pitch.

with Gareth Williams
charlesmfrench 01/Apr/84 Lead O/S
stp 02/Dec/83 Solo rpt

Previously lead pitch 2 in April 82.

with Warren? from Australia
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
peterbeaumont ??/1980 -
Hidden ?/Sep/77 2nd O/S
Marcus 14/Mar/76 -
with Roger Stokes
Hidden ??/1973 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Owen W-G, Richardlake, Hawkgirl, Hidden, Hidden, Belaywhenready, aipattison, Kemics, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Urgles
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 42
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set