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Choker** E1 5a

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[Choker, Main Wall, Avon Gorge, 2 kb]36m, 2 pitches. Stylish and exposed climbing up the left side of the buttress. Start on a belay ledge beneath a black-streaked groove.. 1) 5a, 20m. From the left side of the ledge take a narrow, diagonal ramp out leftwards to two good hidden pegs at the base of a white wall. Climb the wall to another peg and then move up and left to a big quarry-spike just left of the arete. Move around to the left side of the arete and climb up over an overhang and belay below a rickety tree.. 2) 4c, 16m. Move rightwards onto the face and make intricate moves right to the base of a shallow groove in the centre of the face. Climb the groove past a peg, all the way to a large tree at the top of the crag. Walk off or abseil from the tree. © ROCKFAX
G Lyne, T Taylor (pitch 1) 1963, F E Bennett (pitch 2), E Ward Drummond, W O R Hill (direct start) 1966

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Bristol 1st E1s.

Photo: Choker, Main Wall, Avon Gorge © Will Goldsmith
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 111 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/14

steve_gibbs - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Jamie Roberts

zcsharp - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Steve Gibbs

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with John Brannock

Lots of top end 5a climbing on the first pitch and a bold start to the first peg. Proper E1 I'd say.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/13 with Jana

abbed off after first pitch. Felt spicy but i'd missed a peg. Hardish 5a by pegs, as soon as you reach actual gear the climbing gets way easier.
Kemics - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/13 with Neil

First pitch was manageable. Moves required some thought, so stiff for 5a I thought. Second pitch great value for money.
ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/13 with Ben

great fun as a 4! i led first pitch and tom the second.
James S - AltLd rpt - 01/Jul/13 with hannah, tom brum, dan

p2 this time
Cheese Monkey - AltLd rpt - 14/Jun/13 with James S

led first pitch. not too bold i thought so pretty low in the e1 grade
James S - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/13 with ben darby

jonbwoy - Jun/13

Thought the climbing on the first pitch was really good.
Alex Winter - 2nd O/S - 13/May/13 with George

P1 a bit bold getting to the first peg. Good balance climbing.
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 13/May/13 with Alex Winter

P1
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13 with Clay

Led P2
Clay C - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13 with Harry B

Lead P1+P2. Easy enough, but run out so rather hard to relax and enjoy P1. P2 is a superb easy exposed romp
hms - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13 with Jenny

Lead p1. Reliance on pegs was concerning but good climbing
Cheese Monkey - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/13 with Tim

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/13 with ben darby

Jenny Seaborne - 2nd β - 26/Apr/13

p1 + p2
evhall - Lead rpt - 17/Mar/13 with Dave F

jcw - 2013

BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/12 with Tom

thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 29/Oct/12 with Becca

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Geoff Pyatt

kenneM - 2nd - Sep/12 with Ed

p1 - v good
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/12 with Nick

P1 - good
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Mike Kenne

Tim M - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 17/Jun/12 with cheesesarnie

tim_mcd - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with jelaby

lead P2
clams - AltLd - Jun/12 with PR

Led the first (5a) pitch. All on fixed gear but nice climbing after the first peg is clipped!
Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - 31/May/12 with Merlin March

Hidden - 2nd - 19/May/12

Even when seconding there is an aspect of this route which I still find scary.
Quarryboy - 2nd rpt - 08/Apr/12 with Henry Castle

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/12

cbeard - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/12 with Will Attridge

Wouldn't trust any of the pegs on P1, hence deserving of E1. Quarry spike and nut before the overhang would have held
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Martin

JRae - Lead - 06/Nov/11 with Arthur, Jake Young

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Arthur, Johny R

Run out traverse felt a bit worrying although all the moves were in balance so not desperate. Nice route.
Alan100 - Lead - 30/Oct/11

Steve Winslow - Lead O/S - Aug/11

Led P1, Andy P2. Mainly pegs on P1 and a long runout to the first one but relatively easy.
Fred_Richard - AltLd - 26/Jul/11 with Andy Mccoy

Led second pitch
AndyMcCoy - AltLd - 26/Jul/11 with Fred

_m.cox_ - 2nd rpt - 12/Jul/11 with Steve Winslow, Tom Harrison

Led first pitch, I think it is worthy of E1 just because of the scary start and run out between the first and second peg. Although the climbing is pretty easy.
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Rob Stanfield

Can see how first pitch start would have been scary with lack of gear and awkward sloping holds. Neither of us found second peg near the first though. Led second pitch, which was fantasticly exposed!
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Jack Bradbrook

P1 only
tommytuffa - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with andy

Did first pitch this time - lovely route - steep but there is a very fine crystal edge just where you need it - also there are 2 pegs at the bottom of the hard bit
evhall - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Dave F

Great first pitch 3 stars for me! 2nd pitch mine - airy traverse for sure!
gilbert - AltLd O/S - 22/May/11 with Jonathan Percival

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/11

gripped01 - Lead - May/11 with Gilbert

Chris P1, Gary P2.
Chris Sansum - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Gary Lewin

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/10

Awesome 1st pitch - Probably the best individual pitch I've done on Main Wall so far...!! Convinced J that the 2nd pitch was well within him - and he seemed to enjoy it.
andy dunn - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/10 with J

Phil PBC - 2010

alasdair19 - 2010

ian d f - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09

OK - I only climbed the second pitch after doing the HVS next door - P2 is easy but fantastic...
evhall - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/09 with SM

Rick hard Rock - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/08

Paz - 2nd rpt - 22/Oct/08 with AM2

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/08

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - May/08 with Jo Stadden

Climbed it with 2 right rock shoes on.
CarolineH - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Joe

georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/08 with Pete

Led P2. Led P1 24/06
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/08 with douglas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/08

Messners Yeti - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/08 with George

Lead P2 in dusk.
Paz - AltLd rpt - 30/Jan/08 with HA

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/08

Alasdair88 - 2nd O/S - 11/Nov/07 with Tom Kett

Led 2nd pitch
Al Franks - AltLd O/S - 09/Nov/07 with Tom Kett

Led 2nd pitch. Guidebook says 'scant protection'. Bold traverse at beginning of 1st pitch, but reasonably well protected after that
cornishben - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/07 with Chris Sims

Led P1. Most enjoyable. Very easy for E1. Gear is only "scant" for the first 20' on P1. After that it is fine. Left a bit far left at the top I think.
chris sm - AltLd rpt - 12/Sep/07 with Ben Sutton

A quickdraw aided retreat to a resting position...I'm suitably ashamed of myself. Seconded by a one-eyed, trainer-wearing, chalkless scary chap who kept taking photos of me.
RedFox - Lead dog - 07/Jun/07 with Tom K

Marti999 - Mar/07 with Mark Glaister

Lev - Lead O/S - 07/May/06 with Emma Ross

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/May/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/06

mike kann - 2nd - 2006 with Rob Scheicl

Lead P2 which is surprisingly nice.
Paz - AltLd rpt - 23/Nov/05 with JS

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/05

IceMonkey1982 - 2005

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Jun/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/04

I lead P1
Paz - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/03 with TS

P1 only due to rain.
chris sm - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/03 with Haggis Harris

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/02 with Bruno Marks

KRB - Lead O/S - 25/May/01 with Ken Padgett

John Southworth - AltLd - 04/Mar/01

Ally Smith - 2000

Gudge - 2nd O/S - 2000 with BUMC

AndySL - 2nd O/S - 08/May/95 with Jerry

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 12/Mar/95 with Andy Gill

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

NeilGriffiths - 16/Oct/94 with Duncs

mark-abz - AltLd - 14/May/88 with Andy W

sadams - AltLd - 21/Dec/86 with Guy Townsend

led the bottom pitch this time & Rob finished it. He drove his Toyota Hi-Lux almost to the bottom of the route.. well, the railings.
JamieAyres - AltLd rpt - Sep/85 with Rob Parker

HVS 5a then! Led top pitch.
JamieAyres - AltLd O/S - Aug/85 with Gareth Williams

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/84

Previously lead pitch 2 in April 82.
stp - Solo rpt - 02/Dec/83 with Warren? from Australia

Hidden - 1981

peterbeaumont - 1980

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Sep/77

Hidden - 14/Mar/76

Steve Woollard - Lead O/S - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Belaywhenready, aipattison, Kemics, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, The Pylon King

Voting
Total votes cast 97
hard E20 of 34
E20 of 34
easy E20 of 34
hard E11 of 34
E123 of 34
easy E16 of 34
hard HVS4 of 34
HVS0 of 34
easy HVS0 of 34
hard 5b0 of 33
5b0 of 33
easy 5b2 of 33
hard 5a7 of 33
5a23 of 33
easy 5a1 of 33
hard 4c0 of 33
4c0 of 33
easy 4c0 of 33
3 Stars2 of 30
2 Stars22 of 30
1 Star6 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....0 of 30
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 111 (0.9%)
Lead36 of 111 (32.4%)
Followed19 of 111 (17.1%)
Alt Leads44 of 111 (39.6%)
Unknown11 of 111 (9.9%)

'Climbed'25 of 111 (22.5%)
clean O/S71 of 111 (64.0%)
clean β2 of 111 (1.8%)
clean rpt12 of 111 (10.8%)
dogged1 of 111 (0.9%)