Rockfax Description
A high-quality climb on very good rock, with a lot of fixed protection. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line.
From the left-hand side of the ledge, climb boldly up a small corner in the blunt arete to double pegs. Move up to a peg in the wall above and traverse left to a small corner which leads to a hole, thread, peg and good nut. Move up to the overhang above, peg, and make a difficult move to get established above it, peg. Climb the weakness above to the shallow depression with two bolts in its left wall and climb it to its end, from where moves left reach an abseil station. © Rockfax

R Harrison (A C Willmott, D J Hermalin with 2 pts aid 10/Jun/1972) 07/Jan/1978

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Cheese Monkey 17/Sep 2nd dog

Fell at the start of the crux. Hard, pumpy and very good!

with Alex W
Alex Winter 17/Sep Lead O/S

Mint. Pretty sustained through the bolted section. Spent ages arsing about at the crux -- was repeatedly led astray by the chalk into duff sequences.

with Ben Darby
_m.cox_ 27/May Lead O/S

Fantastic route, a little bold up to the first peg but well protected thereafter. Extremely wobbly peg just right of the lower off was entertaining.

climbomaniac 17/May Lead O/S

Fun! the bomber thread gives confidence for a hard move over the bulge, and two bolts protect some hard moves on smeary feet afterwards. While this takes some of the adventure away, it would prob be very difficult to protect otherwise. Admittedly clipped them quite thankfully at that moment. =)

Bristoldave 02/May Lead O/S
with john
John Tanner 02/May 2nd β
Ed Babs 26/Oct/14 Lead β

With Iain's gear and beta.

LucasHarazin 01/Oct/14 Lead O/S
just one more 01/Oct/14 Lead β

Great route,plenty of gear,felt easier than Pink Wall,didn't feel hard for E4

with lucas
msoldn 10/Nov/13 Lead dog

All a bit damp after a week of rain, so crux through bolts felt very hard, despite having done it clean a few years back when seconding MWE. Very good, technical climbing throughout, stunning route!

with Mark
Avon Man 10/Nov/13 2nd dnf

Not the best choice for my second route after three years off climbing.

with msoldn
Kemics 18/Nov/12 2nd dog

Got spanked by the bolted section. Felt really hard for 6a.

dan ely 18/Nov/12 Lead dog

like a hard sport climb on head wall. Getting the draws in is hard enough let alone onsighting it. f7a+ by bolts?

with Kemics
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd dog
Billg 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

great route, slightly easier than MWE, but there is a big detatched flake you layback round which is a bit scary

thomasadixon 23/May/12 Lead O/S

Proper sustained climbing through the second crux, cool roof below - just a great climb. Chuffed to get it clean.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 23/May/12 2nd dog

Took a few attempts to figure out a way to do the crux

with Tom
colesy 01/Feb/12 Lead dog

Went sliightly off route at the second bolt and fell. Amazing route.

pezzerrr 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Chubbard 17/Jul/10 2nd dog

Still nails 2nd time round. Worked crux out eventually. F7a?

with Ray
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead dog
alasdair19 ??/2010 -

mis read lower section on tr 2 rest all moves done

Chubbard 18/Oct/09 Lead dog

Fantastic! Dogged the bolted bit.

JimR 18/Oct/09 -
just one more 04/Jun/09 Lead dog
with tim b
Ricky Rocks 04/May/09 Lead O/S
Paz 05/Apr/07 Lead dog

Clean up to both of the bolts which I sat on. Bit pissed off I blew it.

with GC
tom.e ??/2005 2nd dog
Hidden 29/Jun/04 Lead O/S
KRB 19/Oct/02 Lead β

Another good climb on this fine section of rock

with unseconded
Hidden 06/Jun/99 Lead rpt
Roget 14/Feb/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
stp 19/Aug/83 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1983 Lead β
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
brices, Hidden, EyebrowTom, Justin T, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 14
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set