Avon > Avon Gorge (Main Wall) >
Central Wall** E4 6a

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A high-quality climb on very good rock, with a lot of fixed protection. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line. Photo on page 55. 28m. From the left-hand side of the ledge, climb boldly up a small corner in the blunt arete to double pegs. Move up to a peg in the wall above and traverse left to a small corner which leads to a hole, thread, peg and good nut. Move up to the overhang above, peg, and make a difficult move to get established above it, peg. Climb the weakness above to the shallow depression with two bolts in its left wall and climb it to its end, from where moves left reach an abseil station. © ROCKFAX
R Harrison (A C Willmott, D J Hermalin with 2 pts aid 10/Jun/1972) 07/Jan/1978

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs.

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This climb is in 25 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

All a bit damp after a week of rain, so crux through bolts felt very hard, despite having done it clean a few years back when seconding MWE. Very good, technical climbing throughout, stunning route!
msoldn - Lead dog - 10/Nov/13 with Mark

Got spanked by the bolted section. Felt really hard for 6a.
Kemics - 2nd dog - 18/Nov/12 with Enduro Dan

like a hard sport climb on head wall. Getting the draws in is hard enough let alone onsighting it. f7a+ by bolts?
dan ely - Lead dog - 18/Nov/12 with Kemics

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/12

great route, slightly easier than MWE, but there is a big detatched flake you layback round which is a bit scary
Billg - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Rob Mcallister

Proper sustained climbing through the second crux, cool roof below - just a great climb. Chuffed to get it clean.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with Becca

Took a few attempts to figure out a way to do the crux
BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 23/May/12 with Tom

Went sliightly off route at the second bolt and fell. Amazing route.
colesy - Lead dog - 01/Feb/12

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10

Still nails 2nd time round. Worked crux out eventually. F7a?
Chubbard - 2nd dog - 17/Jul/10 with Ray

Hidden - Lead dog - May/10

mis read lower section on tr 2 rest all moves done
alasdair19 - 2010

Fantastic! Dogged the bolted bit.
Chubbard - Lead dog - 18/Oct/09 with J Robinson

JimR - 18/Oct/09

Rick hard Rock - Lead O/S - 04/May/09

Clean up to both of the bolts which I sat on. Bit pissed off I blew it.
Paz - Lead dog - 05/Apr/07 with GC

tom.e - 2nd dog - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/04

Another good climb on this fine section of rock
KRB - Lead β - 19/Oct/02 with unseconded

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Jun/99

Roget - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/98 with jon

stp - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/83

Hidden - Lead β - 1983

Hidden - 1981

Hidden - 1981

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Justin T, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Total votes cast 32
hard E50 of 11
E50 of 11
easy E51 of 11
hard E46 of 11
E44 of 11
easy E40 of 11
hard E30 of 11
E30 of 11
easy E30 of 11
hard 6b0 of 10
6b0 of 10
easy 6b1 of 10
hard 6a1 of 10
6a8 of 10
easy 6a0 of 10
hard 5c0 of 10
5c0 of 10
easy 5c0 of 10
3 Stars8 of 11
2 Stars3 of 11
1 Star0 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent

Lead16 of 25 (64.0%)
Followed5 of 25 (20.0%)
Unknown4 of 25 (16.0%)

'Climbed'4 of 25 (16.0%)
clean O/S7 of 25 (28.0%)
clean β2 of 25 (8.0%)
clean rpt1 of 25 (4.0%)
dogged11 of 25 (44.0%)