Rockfax Description
Exposed and atmospheric climbing that traces a line up the side of a deep inlet and finishes with a breathtaking stride over the void. At the far east end of Flake Ledge is a narrow zawn that has a wide corner crack in its west wall, start here. Climb the awkward corner to a roof and step right to below a crack. Climb the crack with difficulty to another overhang and move right to above the zawn. Bridge out right and pull up to easier ground that leads to the top and stake belays. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the descent down climb (or abseil) walk left (facing out) until the ledges end at a Zawn. Start at last obvious corner crack before the Zawn. Climb the corner to a resting point then step right and ascend a crack between two protruding blocks until halted by a roof, move right again and enjoy the exposure as you step across the Zawn, a final stiff move up gains easier ground and the top.

A Hall and partner 1971

Ticklists: Orange Spot Swanage, SPA Training Minimum Requirement.


ClimberDateStyle
Bob M 02/Nov Lead
with Harry Cripps
Hidden 29/Oct Solo O/S
hfotheri 12/Aug 2nd O/S
with simon
tsyrett 12/Mar 2nd O/S
cdpuk 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S

After being chased off other routes due to the sea. Slightly terrifying belaying in the zawn. Good exposure.

JulianB 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Philoosh 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Guy Lowndes 01/Aug/15 Lead

VS all the way!

with Mark Deketelaere
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd dog
Buccaneerbilly 21/Jun/15 2nd

Chris had a bit of a head game at the start as it was a bit greasy, Mike offered some advice as he neared the top.

with Chris Lodge
Sam Husband 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S

One of my favourite VS's to date. Also quite hard for VS, especially when the waves have saturated the start.

with Tom
tombushell 13/Jun/15 2nd
Kevster 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S
tonevert 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
Hidden 21/Mar/15 2nd O/S
mikehenesy 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Good fun in the sun! Beware attempting to finish off by going over the second overhang, it's mostly disconcertingly hollow sounding, apart from when it's plain loose. Head right and under it towards the corner. Once over it there's good enough stuff there to belay from, then you won't leave your second hanging around at the bottom, out of sight, in the shade while he tries to get you to take in stuck slack ropes - sorry Rob.

with Rob Gillman
brian watson 13/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Paul Milton
leglesslizard ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
jamespilgrim 30/Jun/13 Lead dog

Made a right mess of the traverse over the zawn by going too high, lowered off, then did it from the other end of the rope. Hardest VS 4c I have tried in a long while!

with Sue
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead rpt
clipskipper 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Ridiculously exposed for a VS! Lots of fun nonetheless.

with Davey Boy
Felix Ottey 08/Jun/13 2nd rpt
The Ivanator 13/Oct/12 Lead rpt

Felt much easier second time around, but certainly solid at VS 4c.

with Craig
DreadyCraig 13/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Major rope F*** up at the start, psyched me out for the rest of the climb

with Ivan B
Hidden 27/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Joemanglerocks 30/Jun/12 2nd
TimKnight 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Hmmm... I made a mess of that. Struggled with the start then got the rope stuck pulling out of the roof, all while the waves were crashing on Paul below. Fun? I'm not sure

Felix Ottey 17/Jun/12 Lead

Utterly Gripping and truly terrifing! Wonderful lead!!

mike.moss 03/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 13/May/12 Lead O/S
with Andy Mosienko
The Ivanator 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Good positions, quite tough for the VS 4c it gets in the new Rockfax. Loved the step across the zawn, the pull up onto easy ground after that is a bit of a sting in the tail.

with Toby
Ybot Htulk 24/Mar/12 2nd
with Ivan
Marti999 12/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Bob M 11/Jul/10 Lead
with Scott Titt, Stewart Walker
Hidden 11/Jul/10 2nd
Sophie Nunn 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S
leonjones 23/May/09 2nd
Indy Nile 23/May/09 Lead O/S

whew! 4b?

Bob M 13/Apr/08 Lead
with Stewart Walker
MontyH 03/Nov/07 Lead rpt
with Paul Milton
MontyH 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S

great route, worth a couple of **

with Lee Lander
Hidden 07/Jul/07 2nd
Hidden 07/Jul/07 TR
Bob M 09/Apr/07 2nd
Norman_P_W 09/Apr/07 Lead
with Bob M
aged_ape ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with KM
Bob M 23/Jun/06 Lead
brian watson ??/2006 Lead O/S
Ian JL ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Duncan Henderson
andybenham ??/2001 -
tomkhoward 01/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with SICMC
kp64zl ?/Apr/96 2nd
with Jason M
Nigel Coe 24/Jul/90 -
Hidden 24/Jul/90 -
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 13
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set