Rockfax Description
Quarried perfection. Sustained and intricate climbing with good protection and rock. Start on Breakfast Ledge.
1) 6a, 30m. Follow Lich Gates to its second (poor) peg and step up left to below a small overhang. Good nuts in a short crack down to its left. Move up over the overhang, 2 pegs, and then climb a flared groove below a pink wall, peg on left, rightwards to a difficult exit, 2 pegs, and a rest on the right. Traverse the fingery break left, 2 pegs, to a bolted stance.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb up the wall on the right, peg out left and a bolt on the right, to a groove and 2 pegs. Follow the groove to a left-trending break and move left, peg, and up into a small overhang capped corner/groove, peg. At the overhang go left, peg, and pull over the overhang to finish. © Rockfax

R Harrison, G A Jenkin (pitch 1 C Perry D Pearce (4 pts aid) 28/Jun/1968, pitch 2 C Perry, J Harwood (2 pts aid) 17/Nov/1968 (finishing up PWT?)) 18/Dec/1977

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Bristoldave ?/Mar Lead O/S
with colin
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Billg 26/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Great route, steady moves, but not been doing enough trad - the pegs at the hard move before the left traverse on P1 felt a bit worrying.

with Ollie
James S 22/Sep/15 Lead dnf

Weather was not on our side today... Rained on and off a few times which left us eventually bailing just before starting pitch 2 properly. What we did was brilliant, will be back soon to do the whole thing!

with geoff
LRob 03/Jun/15 Lead
Alex Winter 27/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Great route, both pitches excellent. Led the first. Was pretty baffled by the niche on P2 -- ended up having to lay one on for the break. Chilly when we started, but fine once the sun came round.

with Nick
Nick Russell 27/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Excellent route, two contrasting pitches, lives up to the hype! Alex led P1 while I shivered on the belay ledge (new bolts, wtf?) then I sweltered on P2 when the sun came round. Pleased to get it in just before the bird ban comes into force.

olliebenzie ??/2015 2nd

09.08.15 I abbed the line for Max to check the pegs. The peg under the roof on the main pitch snapped, Max still led it and thought e4 was still a fair grade as there is other gear about. There is a loose block over the roof that looks like a nice hand hold...

Ed Babs 26/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Superb climbing with shiny new bolted belays and ab point. Led P2.

HappyTrundler 30/Jul/14 AltLd rpt

Still the best E4 in town...led the second pitch this time, sustained and interesting, never desperate or strenny, unlike pitch 1. The route is a clip up really, you only need a Moac and Rock 1 and a load of quick draws...last led this about 10 years ago, and wasn't sure if I'd ever do it again, so well chuffed after tonight....

with Chas
Hidden 10/Mar/14 Lead O/S
AJM 24/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Had to dig deep on pitch 1, almost off in a couple of places. Pitch 2 (E3?) a bit of a contrast, more balancey with a superb finale. Both pitches gave excellent climbing.

Hidden 24/Sep/13 2nd dog
Aaron Lines 07/Oct/12 AltLd
AlexD 04/Sep/12 2nd dog
with Marti
Marti999 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/11 2nd dog
thomasadixon 16/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Crux reach to the big pocket felt pretty hard, probs easier if you're tall. Brilliant climbing if a bit reliant on pegs.

with helen
Hidden 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
pezzerrr 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Chubbard 31/Jul/10 2nd dog

Fell off twice on P1 :(

with Ray
billb ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Mike S
Marcus ??/2006 -
Paz 06/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

led P2 (a less strenuous 6a).

with AS
Hidden 06/Jul/05 -
KRB 26/Sep/04 Lead β

Did it in one pitch. Brilliant sustained climbing

with unseconded
Paz 02/Sep/04 Lead dnf

Down climbed from the top of the ramp after too long. Second had always wanted an excuse to do Dawn Walk (S).

with AS
serby ?/Apr/00 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
AndySL 12/Jun/96 2nd O/S


with Tim
Hidden 04/May/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/96 2nd
Hidden 29/Mar/95 AltLd rpt
steveb2006 23/Sep/89 Lead

Brilliant technical climbing

with Simon Mee
frank ramsay ?/Mar/88 Lead
DDDD ??/1988 -
bullybones ??/1988 Lead
Hidden 01/Nov/85 AltLd
steve L 25/Apr/85 Lead
with Morty
Mike Owen 21/Oct/84 -
with Pete Craig
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
barny ??/1984 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Was called Peril E3/5c when I did it and that seemed a fair grade. Seem to remember the final move of the top groove being a stretch for a good edge - a very good edge as both feet came off!

with Andy Simcock
stp 26/Nov/83 Lead O/S

Previously spelled Peril and given E3. Done twice at different times so as to lead both pitches.

andy gittins ??/1983 -
Hidden ?/Aug/82 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
_m.cox_, Kipper-Phil Smith, Ollie Hensman-Crook, Hidden, i.fish2000, JRae, James S, Hidden, andy dunn, Ricky Rocks, richiebongo, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 13
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set