Desecrator** HVS 5a
[James taking on 'Desecrator' whilst under attack from the Raven, 2 kb]Tucked away high above the traffic on the extreme left of the Unknown Wall is this exciting and very exposed pitch. Approach via a path that rises up leftwards under the wall from the base of the face. Follow the path for 100m to a final steep step which ends at a good ledge and small tree-belay on the right, with a cave 5m above and right. 28m. Move up a small rib to a spike at its top and step right to a ledge beneath the left side of the overhung cave. Climb very steeply through the overhang on loose looking, but good solid holds to a small tree. Move up to a peg and then follow thin cracks to the top. © ROCKFAX
M Putnam, P Hicks, P Todd 16/Oct/1972

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

Photo: James taking on 'Desecrator' whilst under attack from the Raven © Stanners
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 149 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

danmullett - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14

Bit of a heave-ho, but not bad (high left step up!). Great climbing in the upper reaches. Abseil approach would work best, given debris and vegetated ledge.
ruaidh - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Ben

Got up to the peg under the roof, but for the life of me couldn't see a way through. Down climbed.
Andrew Sloan - Lead dnf - 14/Mar/14 with Martin Haworth

Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 14/Dec/13 with Neil, Ian M

Ian Miller - 2nd O/S - 14/Dec/13 with Neil Morbey, Ben Darby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/13

WKaufhold - 2nd - 27/Aug/13

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with Chris Stafford

alastairbegley - 2nd O/S - 06/Jan/13 with Neil Morbey

Straightforward HVS, which i was surprised at given the description. The rubble from the rockfall to the left made access very awkward.
Neil Morbey - AltLd O/S - 06/Jan/13 with Alastair

jonbwoy - 2013

jcw - 2013

Gave this a good go but it turned out I was just missing the jug on the overhang. First time on 2nd once I'd seen where it was!
Katherine Ross - Lead dnf - 12/Oct/12

Katherine Ross - 2nd β - 12/Oct/12 with Andrew Atkinson, Charlie Beard

cbeard - Lead rpt - 12/Oct/12 with Andrew Atkinson, Katherine Ross

shoulders - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with rich smith

Delightful. Not the prettiest name though, eh
katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with rich smith

Phil Belcher - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Rich

kelliroberts3 - Lead - 28/May/12 with Peter Rigby

Comfortable lead after previously seconding it twice before.
Ragingpossum - Lead β - 27/May/12 with cbeard

A new Avon HVS favorite. Quality climbing all the way through.
cbeard - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12 with Will Bourne

mandy - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with elf

TDSvejstrup - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12

HarryB - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Matt, Danish

mchandy - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12

Hung on an ab-rope to take pics and then seconded. Good effort James.
Stanners - 2nd rpt - 02/Apr/12 with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook

Felt retardedly difficult trying to do this in trainers.
Quarryboy - 2nd rpt - 02/Apr/12 with James Rich, Rob Stanfield

Fantastic route! The protection is good, but committing on the overhang is a bit intimidating. The top is superb.
JamesRich - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12 with Rob stanfield, Jack Bradbrook

LouiseP - 2nd dog - 11/Feb/12 with Ross

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/12

Ragingpossum - 2nd rpt - 01/Feb/12 with willbris3

Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Graeme

Hidden - 2nd dog - 28/Jan/12

halfwaythere - Lead O/S - 20/Jan/12 with dan

abtibbs - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Jack Verber

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/11

got rather pumped for some reason, but really fun climb
Ragingpossum - 2nd dog - 30/Nov/11 with will attridge

georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 27/Nov/11 with Alex P

Finally! Wanted to do this for years. Thought it was soft for HVS. Roof is easier than it looks and the wall above is interesting & well protected.
aipattison - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/11 with George Evans

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/11

watch where you app from, we didnt and i remember it for that alone
dan ely - 2nd O/S - 23/Oct/11 with jon (ukc reading)

bemdl - 2nd - 09/Oct/11

abbed off into thorn bushes. Ab 5 metres to right of exit at top is clean.
halfwaythere - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/11

Messed up the hand sequence on the overhang and got stuck in the cave. Did it clean starting pretty much from the bottom.
squicky - 2nd dog - 05/Oct/11 with Aaron

Aaron Lines - Lead rpt - 05/Oct/11 with iggy

evhall - Lead rpt - 02/Oct/11 with jerzy

Did in a gap in the rain showers, and so glad I did. 2.5* route with great gear and plenty of chill out positions. VS experience with a soft 5a move on overhang. Thanks for taking all my stuff jack!
Stanners - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/11 with Mark Davis, Jack Bradbrook

Jesus Christ, Got caught in an absolute blizzard halfway up! Rob left his jumper, trainers and helmet on the ledge so I had to carry it up with me on the back of my harness which made me feel pretty bulky. Wearing thick hiking socks with my climbing shoes meant it was nearly impossible to stand accurately on small footholds which caused me to cut lose at least 3 times when hauling my way over the lip of the overhang. Made for a pretty fricking epic experience though and one I will remember for a long time.
Quarryboy - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/11 with Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies

felt like VS 5a to me
The Pylon King - TR rpt - 15/Jul/11 with Mr Shunt

andy dunn - 2nd - 12/Jul/11 with Darren

Lovely Avon flowstone; how the gorge must have looked once. Awkward abseil.
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/11 with Ra

Fell twice from the crux. Very disappointing, had missed a jug pocket.
Dave Ing - Lead dnf - 03/Jun/11 with Andy D

Clean after falling twice from the crux on lead.
Dave Ing - 2nd β - 03/Jun/11 with Andy D

andy dunn - Lead rpt - 03/Jun/11 with dave

Garrouli - Lead O/S - 19/May/11 with Matt

Phil PBC - AltLd O/S - May/11 with henry castle

andy dunn - Lead rpt - 22/Apr/11 with Alan

Climbed after backing off the roof on a previous occasion. Nice to complete it, even if it took a while to work out the move past the roof.
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Gary Lewin

Clay C - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/11 with Seb

31770 - 2011

Johnny Baker - 2011 with Derek Toulalan, Dave Webster

fletch73 - 2011

Very good, awesome roof.
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/10 with Becca

Really steep and difficult roof - I cheated and got tom to go up and sling the tree so I had gear above me. Rest of the route was awesome!
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/10 with Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10

Marti999 - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Lisa

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Sep/10 with Ben West

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10

nigsims - 2nd dog - 22/Jun/10 with Nig Caton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10

interesting moves out over the roof (felt like the crux to me). Followed by some great climbing on flowstone. Straightforward, good gear placements are wherever you want them. All in all a graeat route and well deserving of 2*
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 18/May/10 with J

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/10

simonf - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/10 with Jane, Chris

Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10

Not sure why, but was totally terrified!
sweenyt - Lead rpt - 03/Mar/10 with UBMC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/10

ian d f - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/09 with Mark

markfromstoke - 2nd - 25/Sep/09 with Ian

Gary attempted leading - but backed off the overhang (I had done the same last weekend too, after trying it knackered). We'll be back!
Chris Sansum - 2nd dnf - 19/Sep/09 with Gary Lewin

Didn't feel like committing to the overhang move as a bit knackered after trip to Scotland and a long bouldering traverse earlier, so downclimbed.
Chris Sansum - Lead dnf - 13/Sep/09 with Gary Lewin

maffujones - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/09 with Jamie T

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/09 with Hannah Hunt

Hanski - 2nd - 12/Jun/09 with Simon Kimber

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 11/Mar/09

Dr Caterpillar - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/09 with Alex Malins

Richard Hall - Jan/09

Mckenzie - 2nd O/S - 19/Dec/08 with Henry

A very nice climb
Caspar - 2nd O/S - 07/Dec/08 with Simon Reynolds

pleasant climbing
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/08 with Caspian

Awesome
Protheroe - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/08 with Dave Radley

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/08

Best sub E1 single pitch in the Gorge?
Tom Last - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/08 with Clive

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08

cornishben - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/08 with Pippa Froggatt

Al Franks - 2nd rpt - 26/Aug/08 with Alan Sage

Alasdair88 - Lead rpt - 26/Aug/08 with Alan Sage

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/08

didn't feel as hard as i've heard people say it does. Very good climb throughout
georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 18/May/08 with Francis

First lead went well good gear for climbing overhang watch sapling if climbing with two ropes
Francis Lister - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with george evans

evhall - Lead O/S - 13/May/08 with Cutts

Wicked Climb, Overhang was daunting but easy on big holds :)
Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 08/May/08 with Sam Howel

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/May/08

Al Franks - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/08 with Rob Horton

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/08 with Rob Horton

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/08 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/07

Single pitch, sustained and physical. It starts with a pull-up over a shattered overhang; plenty of protection for the heave up and over on one good hand-hold and (ahem) a small sapling. The rest of the route is less spectacular but steep on smaller holds than would have been comfortable and good quality pocket footholds. The plentiful availability of protection qualifies the grade. I was getting tired by the top and had to grab a quickdraw to regain my balance, so can't claim a clean second but was pretty close. Not sure I'm ready to lead this yet. Abseil descent included an 'upside down in a bramble bush', mini adventure.
Humpty Dangler - 2nd dog - 14/Oct/07 with Jordan Lane

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Oct/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/07

Hidden - 2nd - 17/May/07

django - 2nd O/S - May/07 with John Rowe

A really good route.
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/07 with Neil Ferguson

Paz - 2nd rpt - 10/Mar/07 with CC

Stone Muppet - 2007

maresia - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/06 with Mike Kann

Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/06 with James Wright

mike kann - 2006 with maresia

mike kann - 2006

IceMonkey1982 - 2006

I whined like a girl when an ant or something bit my finger just above the roof...
RedFox - 2nd O/S - 2006 with Tom K

Paz - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/05 with ML

Squirt! Steep, strenuous, exposed, overhanging, I asked for a panicky epic and got it.
MagnusL - 2nd dog - 18/Mar/05 with My mate James P

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

tom.e - 2nd - 2005 with Alex Barrows

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Jack G

Boxy - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/04 with Mick

Lev - 2nd O/S - 11/Feb/04 with Gareth Cokell

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Feb/04

tom.e - Lead O/S - 2004 with Charlie Everett

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/03

Jim Brooke - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/01 with Liz Cant, Rich

gimmer - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/00

Rob Kennard - 2000 with John Southworth

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Johnny Rowland - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/95

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/94 with Martin Sime

surfbish - Lead O/S - Mar/89

JamieAyres - Lead O/S - 1985 with Peter Rickard

Hidden - Solo - 1983

Hidden - 1981

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Wheels, pheotleyr, George Frisby, scarp, mullermn, jon_ridley, matt_claydon, nchammer

Voting
Total votes cast 109
hard E10 of 40
E10 of 40
easy E10 of 40
hard HVS6 of 40
HVS27 of 40
easy HVS4 of 40
hard VS3 of 40
VS0 of 40
easy VS0 of 40
hard 5b0 of 39
5b0 of 39
easy 5b1 of 39
hard 5a6 of 39
5a29 of 39
easy 5a2 of 39
hard 4c1 of 39
4c0 of 39
easy 4c0 of 39
3 Stars19 of 30
2 Stars8 of 30
1 Star3 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....0 of 30
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