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Hocus Pocus** E3 6a

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The towering face right of the arete is taken centrally by this superb and sustained route. Start just to the left of the large corner at the base of the face.. 1) 6a, 18m. Move up to and climb a thin crack and wall to a bolt. Pass the bolt leftwards via some fingery moves to a thin horizontal break. Traverse left with difficulty and move up a tiny corner to a good crack, then climb up it to the next set of ledges. Move left to a belay on the arete as for New Horizons.. 2) 5c, 20m. Move back right and climb a short crack and wall above the stance to a thread (thin sling needed). Continue in the same line up a little corner, peg, to a prominent peg on the right. Climb past the peg to a lighter band of rock and a peg on the left below a small white corner. Climb the wall right of the white corner, past a peg, to the top. © ROCKFAX
M Corbett, S Bell (AL) 29/Apr/1981

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

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This climb is in 32 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/13 with max

1 rest, came off moving into the rest after the traverse, pumped!
HarryB - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/12 with Ross

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/12

Hooray, grew balls and lead the 1st pitch!
richiebongo - AltLd RP - 28/Aug/12 with Luis Paspas

Got pumped on the traverse and ended up hanging from the peg.
richiebongo - Lead dog - 03/Aug/12 with Nick Smith

Billg - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Bob Brewer

Cried like a baby all the way up the second pitch, and was not even consoled when I reached the shiny new peg. Lovely jubbly though.
gazhbo - AltLd O/S - 16/May/12

j miller - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12

Aaron Lines - 2nd O/S - 22/May/11 with frank ramsay

What a gem, and I though that I'd ticked them all off! Seconded p1 which seemed pretty straight forward until the sudden pump sequence going through the travers. Led p2 which provided some nice and steady steep climbing with a feeling of full exposure.
msoldn - AltLd O/S - 09/May/11 with Will

Hidden - Lead RP - 01/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/10

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with tom dixon

Fell off 1st pitch then pulled ropes and got it clean, nails at e3! V good climbing!
thomasadixon - AltLd RP - 28/Aug/10 with Ed Babington

Hidden - 2nd dog - Jul/09

Marti999 - Lead - 03/Jun/08 with Mark Glaister

one big pitch
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 29/May/06

Bern - 2006

Only onsighted P2 which nonetheless is excellent.
Paz - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/05 with AS

Hidden - Lead RP - 01/Feb/05

tom.e - 2nd dog - 2005

_m.cox_ - AltLd O/S - Aug/03 with Adam Mulholland

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/01 with Jason Parker

Ally Smith - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

This tall blond youth with glasses was dischuffed his partner hadn't turned up so I stood in. He looked like a V.Diff climber - until he set off! I didn't know who he was, but was pleased that I'd ditched my old Whillans harness only the previous week. Good climb - particularly the 2nd pitch.
KRB - AltLd O/S - 04/Nov/99 with Dave Pickford

Hidden - Lead RP - 1999

The traverse is pumpy.
lowersharpnose - Lead O/S - 11/May/94 with Adam

Pete Ogden - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 1987

Hidden - AltLd β - 29/Apr/81

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
bpmclimb, Hidden

Total votes cast 44
hard E40 of 16
E40 of 16
easy E45 of 16
hard E310 of 16
E31 of 16
easy E30 of 16
hard E20 of 16
E20 of 16
easy E20 of 16
hard 6b0 of 16
6b0 of 16
easy 6b0 of 16
hard 6a3 of 16
6a13 of 16
easy 6a0 of 16
hard 5c0 of 16
5c0 of 16
easy 5c0 of 16
3 Stars2 of 12
2 Stars10 of 12
1 Star0 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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Style of ascent

Lead14 of 32 (43.8%)
Followed6 of 32 (18.8%)
Alt Leads10 of 32 (31.2%)
Unknown2 of 32 (6.2%)

'Climbed'5 of 32 (15.6%)
clean O/S15 of 32 (46.9%)
clean β1 of 32 (3.1%)
clean rpt1 of 32 (3.1%)
clean RP5 of 32 (15.6%)
dogged5 of 32 (15.6%)