Arms Race*** E4 5c
[Arms Race, Upper Wall, Avon Gorge, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A popular pumper that folows a fine, well-protected finger-crack. The rock anchor bolts are out-of-bounds for holds! Start at the bottom of a thin right-trending crack below an overhang at 7m with a number of massive rock anchors just above it.

Climb the strenuous crack past the overhang and up the grey wall until it fades below a massive ring bolt. Move up to just below the ring bolt (runner only!) traverse the thin break left and move up to a short crack and easier climbing to the top. © ROCKFAX

S Monks, P Newman 18/Oct/1979

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Photo: Arms Race, Upper Wall, Avon Gorge © Will Goldsmith
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 176 logbooks, and on 28 wishlists.

Pumped out getting into the second section of the crack. Lowered off, pulled the ropes and went for a G/U ... totally pumped out at the ring bolt. Great route though and I think i can do it
adam 24 - Lead dog - 27/Jun/15 with Caroline

Hidden - 2nd dog - 27/Jun/15

Hidden - 2nd β - 08/Jun/15

lives up to its reputation,
grp - Lead dog - 08/Jun/15

LRob - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/15

Cheese Monkey - 2nd β - 02/Jun/15 with Peter M

James Marshall - Lead G/U - 30/May/15 with Gaz

Lovely finger crack
JoeE - TR dog - 24/May/15 with Mr Shunt

That's better, lead placing the gear on lead. Great.
tobydunford - Lead rpt - 18/May/15 with Harry Martin

Daaamn... Seriously underestimated this climb! Looked like a walk in the park from below, but got really pumped already after the first bulge. Jumped in. 2nd go to the big hook, but fell on the slopy traverse left. 3rd go clean. Next time: warm up first, and a little more respect for a steep sustained E4!!
climbomaniac - Lead G/U - 16/May/15

alastairbegley - 2nd dog - 09/May/15 with Misha

First tried it three years ago almost to the day. Seem to recall finding it witheringly pumpy and didn't manage it clean. This time it went fine :-) Still pumpy of course but never desperately so. Guess I'm now fitter and can probably use feet better - that's pretty important. The hardest thing was placing the gear as the moves and hand holds are mostly not too bad. Pleased with this.
Misha - Lead rpt - 09/May/15 with Alastair

Lead this with the gear in after falling by the big ring bolt on the onsight! Need to do it properly putting the gear in on the lead. Brilliant route.
tobydunford - Lead RP - 08/May/15 with Harry Martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/15

It was a bit dark and I couldn't quite see, as well as the sun being on it, which made it a bit sweaty but the wind was making it really cold, making warming up really hard, but I was too warm. I also picked up the wrong shoes which were too tight and the rubber was too soft coupled with the high additives in my chalk which made my skin too soft for the day. I swear. 2nd go.
Jack_F - Lead G/U - 10/Apr/15 with Remus

Cold hands and not warmed up = pumped! Still awesome...
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 14/Dec/14

This time putting gear on the lead. Great climb.
LucasHarazin - Lead RP - 16/Oct/14 with Steve Barnard

Lead on Lucas' gear between his brave leads in heavy downpours! Will be back to do it getting the gear in
just one more - Lead RP - 08/Oct/14 with lucas

With pre-placed gear on the second go. Then washed away by downpour while trying to place gear on leading.
LucasHarazin - Lead RP - 08/Oct/14 with Steve Barnard

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Sep/14

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/14 with Eve

Took one go to re-aquaint and get over myself at the top, clean and placing gear 2nd go. I guess this now leaves the E5 next door...
Kevster - Lead RP - 14/Sep/14 with Josh Leak

Pippa - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/14 with Richard Bennett

Hidden - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/14

2 rests. First one because I went slightly the wrong way, second one because I was lazy.
pheotleyr - TR dog - 06/Aug/14 with Peter Milner

One rest, I should have gone for it and taken the fall
twem - 2nd dog - 06/Aug/14 with Andy Tobin

Faffed a bit and still made it, with a little bit to spare...
HappyTrundler - Lead rpt - 06/Aug/14 with Andrew Tremelow

yan hawkins - Lead RP - 17/May/14 with Gaz

Good route, stacks of gear, pumpy to place. Tried onsight, failed it clean, but made the top in a couple of sections, next go led it on in situ gear clean and smooth. Just got to wait until next time for placing gear on lead.
Kevster - Lead - 04/May/14 with Tony Johnson

Definitely one to come back to. Got rope burn on hand when shunt appeared to slip somewhat.
Cheese Monkey - TR dog - 14/Apr/14 with Shunt

tonevert - 2nd - 2014 with Kevin Faux

i_a_coops - Lead O/S - 2014 with Duggie

Some kind of retro-flash. Couldn't remember anything from my failed attempt at following it ages ago. Led today first time but with 2 pieces of Alex's gear in. Pumped silly by the top!
Nick Russell - Lead β - 30/Nov/13 with Alex Winter

Placed some dodgy gear on my first go (I've obviously done too much sport recently). Didn't really have much confidence in it and lost all mojo for upwards progression. Got it next go after Nick had stripped it. Great route. Sustained, but only a couple of 5c moves I reckon.
Alex Winter - Lead G/U - 30/Nov/13 with Nick

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead rpt - 23/Nov/13 with max

Pumpy but at the bottom end of the grade. Great line, great climbing.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Aug/13

Thanks Jimmy for all the belays. Pumpy route with big reaches between good parts of the crack. Slopey traverse is worrying at the end!
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13

Alice Thompson - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Michael Porter

Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead rpt - 11/May/13 with Becky McGovern

Managed it clean while removing the gear (not stepping on the block, not grabbing the rock bolt) Want to come back and get the full experience leading it!
Dean177 - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with Alan Dibben

so shiny!
AlexD - 2nd dog - 06/May/13 with Ed

Dogged previously 8 Dec 2012 & 28 Aug 2010. Still hard!
Ed Babs - TR RP - 06/May/13 with AlexD

Dibdawg - Lead dog - 06/May/13 with Dean Merchant

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13

HarryB - TR dog - 12/Feb/13 with Shunt

jonbwoy - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Nov/12

Fell off at the big ring at the top. Monster ramp-y pump. I have never experienced such an excrutiating burning feeling in my arms before. A bit gutted I have blown the onsight, me and my impatience. At least I am clocking nice air time on trad, good for my head
Tomar - Lead dog - 18/Nov/12 with Sash, laurent

honours degree in pump from the university of trad!
Stanners - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/12 with Kyle Williamson

After the overlap pretty much dogged move by move. Would be hard in the dry, but was still wet from friday night downpours. So hard not to grab the giant bolt.
Kemics - 2nd dog - 06/Oct/12 with Enduro Dan

Hidden - Lead - 30/Sep/12

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 03/Aug/12 with Mike

Aaron Lines - 2nd dog - 23/Jun/12 with frank ramsay

akhughes - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/12

On Andy's gear
mikeshewring - Lead β - 09/Jun/12

Spacetourist - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/12 with Lydia

mwatson - Lead O/S - Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/12

Tried the lead but ran out of gas above the o'hang. Sooooo pumpy. Misha made it to the top eventually. Followed but wasted by the ring bolt.
philhilo - 2nd dog - 12/May/12 with misha

Misha - Lead dog - 12/May/12 with Phil

Nick Russell - 2nd dog - 28/Mar/12

_m.cox_ - Lead rpt - 16/Mar/12 with Spacetourist

Spacetourist - Lead rpt - 16/Mar/12 with Matt Cox

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Mar/12

V.Pumpy but moves steady; the bolt tempts you upward!
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Mar/12 with Princess Diana

Spacetourist - Lead rpt - 25/Feb/12 with Ed Heslam

sooo pumped so much fun
brices - Lead β - 15/Feb/12

Good climbing with loads of gear. Not much harder than Them.
Cailean Harker - Lead O/S - 25/Jan/12

Phwoar, got a bit pumped on this! Nothin desperate but couldnt really recover even on the good holds, need to get some fitness! Definitely harder but maybe less cruxy than Them
Mike Goldthorp - Lead β - 25/Jan/12 with Nick, Giles, Cailean Harker

maddy.c - Lead - 2012

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - 2nd dog - 13/Nov/11 with Toby

JRae - Lead dog - 06/Nov/11 with Arthur

Jake Young - 2nd dog - 06/Nov/11 with Arthur, Johny R

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11 with Tom Gibbison

thomb - 07/Oct/11 with Mike, Darren

Hidden - 2nd dog - 22/Sep/11

Flashed today. Damn pumpy still but never very hard. Yoyoed on 10-Aug-10.
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 22/Sep/11 with helen

Awesome route. never too hard, but sustained!
Glyn - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/11 with John

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Jul/11

Hidden - TR RP - 13/Jul/11

Adam Lincoln - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Si Tappin

Dan Jenkin - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/11 with Rosea Day, Tom Heslam

Did 3 laps as training
Gibbo - TR - 16/May/11 with Pete Milner, Maddy moore

man, it doesn't get any easier even after having done it a couple of times now...
msoldn - 2nd O/S - 10/May/11 with Will

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/May/11

Lead clean having fell off a couple of years ago. what a great route!
billb - Lead - 04/May/11 with Rich Smith

gazhbo - Lead - May/11

Fran S8 - 2nd - 22/Apr/11

Greg Pittam - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Raff, Clare Richardson

Did this first in 1986. Then the guide positively encouraged you to use the concrete foothold. So same style again today!
frank ramsay - Lead - 01/Apr/11 with Aaron

Not one hard move but pumpy! Had one go a couple of years ago and took a lob, happy to get it clean this time.
colesy - Lead - Apr/11 with Dean Russell

Rosea Day - 2nd dog - Apr/11

Stepped on the concrete block just above the overhang (the shame!) but resisted grabbing the big iron spike (yay!), pumpier than a pumpy thing on a pumpy day.
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/11 with Nick Smith

Led first in 1987 ish
Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead rpt - 24/Sep/10 with Nick Colton

billb - Lead - Aug/10 with Rich Smith

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10 with Tom I, pete

Hidden - Lead dog - Jun/10

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/10 with sam read

Hidden - TR dog - 11/Mar/10

Hidden - TR dog - 04/Mar/10

Pete Ogden - Lead - 2010 with Nigel Birtwell

JulesV - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Will Boxen

Dunx - 2nd dnf - 12/Sep/09 with Ru

Hidden - Lead β - 01/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Jul/09

Gipping. Top roping is totally ethical if you use a 9mm rope and run it over an edge.
Paz - TR rpt - 14/Nov/08 with WG

Pumpy but not difficult
KRB - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/08 with Chris & Martin

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/Sep/08

Paz - 2nd rpt - 26/Sep/08 with WG, HA

Hidden - 2nd dog - 26/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/Sep/08

Paz - 2nd rpt - 17/Aug/08 with WG

Paz - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/08 with WG

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/May/08

IceMonkey1982 - May/08

Paz - Lead RP - 08/Apr/08 with WG

jfreeman - 2nd - 09/Mar/08 with Nick Gillet

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 2008 with Ed Heslam

step on concrete block and grabed iron ring... woops
feilx - Lead O/S - 22/Dec/07 with Mike Soldner

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/07

Hidden - Lead β - 13/Aug/07

Paul Robertson - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/06 with Paz

Fell on the bolt again.
Paz - Lead dog - 08/Sep/06 with PE

2 rests at crux
tom.e - 2nd dog - 07/Aug/06

Soooo pumpy.
Bux - 2nd dog - 12/Jul/06 with Nick

With a fall again, this time on to the ring bolt. Haven't really got the top sorted.
Paz - Lead dog - 28/May/06 with AB

With one fall faffing round unnecessarily trying to clip the ring. Grabbed it and finished it off
Paz - Lead dog - 09/May/06 with AS

Jo McCready - Lead β - May/06 with Steve Yeoman

cornishben - Lead dog - Apr/06 with Chris Sims

Bern - 2006

Piss wet.
Paz - 2nd dog - 19/Apr/05 with PE

joe_alexander - 2nd dog - 09/Mar/05 with Nick Gillette

_m.cox_ - Lead β - Jun/04 with Adam Mulholland

many many rests.
Paz - 2nd dog - May/04 with AS

Hidden - Lead - 2003

With pre placed gear
shoulders - Lead RP - 14/Jan/01 with mart, andy sharp, pete lewis

Hidden - 2001

Billg - Lead O/S - Jul/00 with Harry

Rob Kennard - 2000 with John Southworth

Tim M - Lead β - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000
Mathias Willerup - Lead dog - May/99 with Tim Wilkinson

Hidden - 1999

Roget - Lead rpt - 09/Mar/98 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 1998

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Apr/95

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1994

AndySL - 2nd RP - 1994 with Tim

Stoney Boy - Lead RP - 23/May/93 with Tim Gould

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/93 with Alan Holden

Roget - Lead dog - 31/Aug/92 with jon

Cowflinger - Lead - Feb/92 with Lewis

I fell once.
Nigel Coe - 2nd dog - 1992 with Ray Mardon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/88

One rest
shark - Lead - 10/May/87

DDDD - 1987

High card intake required! A great route with consistent climbing throughout. Not for the weak in mind or body
sniffer - 2nd - 1987 with Chris Court

steve L - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/83 with Alun Richardson

Always E3 5c
stp - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/83

Marcus - 1983 with Wright Nichols

andy gittins - 1983

Hidden - Lead RP - 1982

Steve Bell - 1981

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
emdawes, Lenny, Justin T, Ollie B, Ross.Cooper, i.fish2000, theloringharvey, tommytuffa, Pippa, Kemics, andy dunn, Tomar, Jon_Warner, Dan_Carroll, explodingsprouts

Total votes cast 119
hard E50 of 41
E50 of 41
easy E50 of 41
hard E40 of 41
E434 of 41
easy E46 of 41
hard E31 of 41
E30 of 41
easy E30 of 41
hard 6a0 of 40
6a0 of 40
easy 6a0 of 40
hard 5c3 of 40
5c30 of 40
easy 5c7 of 40
hard 5b0 of 40
5b0 of 40
easy 5b0 of 40
3 Stars35 of 38
2 Stars3 of 38
1 Star0 of 38
0 Stars0 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP