UKC

17m.

Rockfax Description
A popular pumper that follows a fine finger-crack. The rock anchor bolts are out-of-bounds for holds! Start at the bottom of a thin right-trending crack below an overhang. Climb the strenuous crack past the overhang and up the grey wall until it fades below a massive ring bolt. Move up to just below the ring bolt (runner only!) traverse the thin break left and move up to a short crack and easier climbing to the top. © Rockfax

S Monks, P Newman 18/Oct/1979.

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , Trad climbs for sport climbers , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E4 ticklist , 30 For My 30s , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Ramp 'Super' Challenge , The post lockdown local list , The Local Ticklist , So you think your an Avon Climber? , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Best of the Gorge , Preparation for the Resurrection , South West in Extremis , Avon Gorge *** Routes , Avon

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 10 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Finally got this sucker after 2 years. Thanks Coney for the support and belay. Just about had the strength to clip the ring bolt and then head for 'home' to the sharp crack.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Finally got this sucker after 2 years. Thanks Coney for the support and belay. Just about had the strength to clip the ring bolt and then head for 'home' to the sharp crack.
Tall Oak 4 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Finally got this sucker on TR. Being fresh changes the landscape. Amazing that even after one go the arms were not packed with the same power after one burn. This sucker is gonna get before the end of the year. Beta down, gear needs working. Well done to Noble and Bisset for finally nailing this on the lead. Fair play chaps!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Finally got this sucker on TR. Being fresh changes the landscape. Amazing that even after one go the arms were not packed with the same power after one burn. This sucker is gonna get before the end of the year. Beta down, gear needs working. Well done to Noble and Bisset for finally nailing this on the lead. Fair play chaps!
Misha 13 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Currently has an in situ red offset just above the overlap (not mine!), need a hex / hammer to knock it out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Currently has an in situ red offset just above the overlap (not mine!), need a hex / hammer to knock it out.
Tall Oak 1 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Arms Race 2 - 0
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Arms Race 2 - 0
Tall Oak 25 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: What a route. Let battle commence projecting this. Took dive just before the ringed bolt onto a cam. Didnt die. Pfeww! Not really the warm up Steve either!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a route. Let battle commence projecting this. Took dive just before the ringed bolt onto a cam. Didnt die. Pfeww! Not really the warm up Steve either!
Misha 1 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: See my log from 28.6.20 for details of the gear required.
βeta?
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βeta: See my log from 28.6.20 for details of the gear required.
will black 23 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Love u guys xxx
βeta?
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βeta: Love u guys xxx
plant_based_tommo 21 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant, sustained and well protected, so long as you can get the wires in before you get pumped out of your mind.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant, sustained and well protected, so long as you can get the wires in before you get pumped out of your mind.

Logged Ascents

400 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area)

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 54
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Amanita Muscarina

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area))

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