Simian* HVS 5a
[Sue on Simian (HVS 5a), 3 kb]24m.

Rockfax Description
A butch exercise. Start below a recess 3m above the ground with a borehole strike at its back
Move up to the borehole, and then climb the right-hand wall to an easing below a steep crack and undercut wall, some good gear here. Make big moves to jugs over the lip and haul up to a resting place. Climb more easily to a bolt and then head right to finish up the cleanest line. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
From the boreholed recess below, beg your way up the huge undercut crack and heave over the top to follow the obvious line to a tree belay.

F E Bennett 08/May/1966

Ticklists: Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Sue on Simian (HVS 5a) © Kafoozalem
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 276 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Dino Dave - Lead β - 02/Oct/15 with Hugo UBMC

smartydh9 - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/15

Luke's lead, definitely reachy and pumpy
JoeCoxson - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/15 with Luke Gorman, omaskrey

lukegorman - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/15 with Joe Coxson

Luke's lead. Reachy
omaskrey - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/15 with Luke Gorman, Joe Coxson

Tim_C7 - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/15 with Luke Williams

nickwhimster - Lead β - 13/Sep/15 with Bristoldave

Really nice climb, roof has awesome climbing with huge jugs but some slippery polished footholds.
Robheirene - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/15 with alan rosier

RichyBOYY - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/15 with David Clover

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/15

Jack Porteous - Lead G/U - 08/Aug/15

Felt like a blank, committing start. Onwards to a well protected crack. Lovely finger and hand jams.
lawlolly - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/15

samvick1991 - 2nd dog - 29/Jul/15

Laurence20 - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/15

jammy4536 - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/15 with steve_gibbs

steve_gibbs - Lead rpt - 14/Jun/15 with Jamie MacLeod

Luxulyan - 2nd - 10/Jun/15 with Harry, Tom Murrell

Hidden - TR O/S - 04/Jun/15

Crux is quite burly but its the polish that makes it hard
Tala M - 2nd O/S - 30/May/15 with Mike Brookes

Having got down from the slab earlier in the year as it dripped with water went back up to finish it. Tough as a shorty!
Lil_Pete - Lead G/U - 25/May/15 with Corin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/15

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/May/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/15

Had to rest on the overhang. Got quite interesting when my gear fell out during the main pull up move. Awesome climb despite the polish.
JoeE - Lead dog - 10/May/15 with Ashley Barnes

Really hard to get over the nose and a lot of pump involved. Great fun otherwise
AshBarnes - 2nd dog - 10/May/15 with Joe Eyeington

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/15 with Bradley Phelps

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/15

clams - Lead rpt - Apr/15 with Chaz

Melonfly - 2nd dog - Apr/15 with Dan HB

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Feb/15

Hidden - 2015

Hard moves around roof. Pumpy route
mattprince - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/14 with Lydia Miles

felixizzy - 2nd rpt - 27/Sep/14 with Neil

Neil - Lead - 27/Sep/14

A slightly misguided belief that I could climb this after a long evening on the beers and little sleep got me into a spot of bother. Straight forward up to the middle section, where the polish is horrid and makes smearing and finding good foot placements tricky. Protection is good in the crack on the left. Rested before attempting to pull up over the top, arms failed me and I fell a good 4 or 5m. Had to ab to retrieve gear. Great route, will be back for it...
Richardlake - Lead dnf - 14/Sep/14 with William Lake

leo-z-g - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Alex Prentice

Hidden - Lead - 05/Sep/14

Even more shiny than I remember.
Nick Russell - 2nd rpt - 22/Aug/14 with Alex Winter

Had backed off the solo the week before. Steady enough, although a bit shiny in places.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/14 with Nick

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Aug/14

LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/14

BoHeMlo - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/14

Tom Brierley Gore - Lead rpt - 02/Jul/14 with Shijing Hu

Exciting moves to amazing jugs on the lip. Worth some stars imho
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/14 with Nick Whimster

robh14 - Lead - 19/Jun/14

Polish is off putting but the moves are fairly straight forward.
felixizzy - Lead β - 08/Jun/14 with Craig

Felt quite easy today.
pheotleyr - Lead RP - 05/Jun/14 with Jana

Couldn't get up the layback. Very polished. Not very fit.
humptydumpty - 2nd dnf - 12/May/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/May/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/14

Thuggy. Glad to get it clean.
Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Martin Haworth

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Mar/14

Annoyingly took a rest before trying to go for the jugs. It's much easier than one would think really (still hard for HVS though).
pheotleyr - Lead dog - 10/Mar/14 with Mike

Took the first short wall on the right. rested before the crux
Mayaculpa - 2nd dog - 10/Mar/14 with Peter

Bomber jams through the roof makes it easy. Wet today.
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14 with O.Lancett

Hidden - 2nd - 2014

Luke Davies - Lead - 07/Dec/13

Hidden - Lead β - 07/Dec/13

alexjz - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/13 with Peter Amy

Cheese Monkey - TR O/S - 22/Aug/13 with Shunt

philmcf - TR dog - Aug/13

had problems getting over the overhange after just leading all of nightmare but a really nice climb
Tom Harper - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/13

climbEdclimb - 2nd - 18/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 06/Jul/13

alastairbegley - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Neil Morbey

Hidden - Lead RP - 08/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/May/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/May/13

Polish, rain and hail. My lucky day. Made the crux a breeze in comparison to the start.
squicky - 2nd O/S - 13/May/13 with Tommy

tommytuffa - Lead O/S - 13/May/13

Hidden - Lead β - 12/May/13

Anthony Dixon - 23/Apr/13

The most polished route in the world!
haydng - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/13 with Tony

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13 with Harry Martin

gripped01 - Lead - 20/Apr/13 with Dave Tait

therat - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13

Ground up. Took a fall from the crux first time, did it easily second time. Very good route but hard for the short.
BeccaSnowden - Lead RP - 17/Feb/13 with Tom

thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 17/Feb/13 with Becca

A bit wet
lukehodson - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Alan Sage

jonbwoy - 2013

jcw - 2013

Seconded 2 yrs ago so beta lead
Jon Didymus - Lead β - 03/Aug/12 with Josh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/12

Edvenables - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with Stephen Venables

Certainly one of the more polished routes, still enjoyably climbable. After work climb with not enough time, very very humid
Kemics - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/12

annoyed to fall off this, foot popped off near the end of the crux. got it fine next go, will come back to get it clean.
James S - Lead dog - 23/Jul/12 with dan

Dan0Me - 2nd - 23/Jul/12 with James S

Also removed the dead DMM camming device from under the crack - just for fun!
useful - TR RP - 15/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jun/12

Still a great route, polished crux adds to the tension..
Si Carter - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/12 with Colin Tiley

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/May/12

daverichris - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/12

Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12 with rd

Horrible lead, lot of power and no technique. Not nice to watch but lead without a fall. Maybe a second try to improve the style in the future?
Murilo Lessa - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Alex Desborough

cdent - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/12

Really stuffed my already damaged styomach muscles pulling through the hard move on this.
maresia - 2nd rpt - 03/Mar/12 with Tim Sanders, Mike Kann

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 14/Feb/12 with Lyndsay

Lyndsay Superclimber - 2nd O/S - 14/Feb/12 with Mark S

abtibbs - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Jack Verber

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/11 with Pete Saunders

had bit of struggle on this, but went ok once worked it out.
manwithacam - Lead - 04/Dec/11 with Joris

Joris.Roulleau - 2nd O/S - 04/Dec/11 with Dan Metcalfe

pffft - 2nd O/S - 20/Nov/11 with Dave

Faffed and didn't want to committ went fine straight after.
Dave89 - Lead dog - 20/Nov/11 with Chris k

According to the 2004 guide I'm an 'average Avon-goer'... because I struggled. The gear was good though.
JamesRich - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/11 with Rob stanfield

Harder than I remember, especially with two pairs of shoes tied to my harness. A great effort from James!
Stanners - 2nd rpt - 19/Nov/11 with James Rich

stafford101 - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Charlie

cbeard - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Chris Stafford

An alright warm up/intro to avon
Jack_F - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/11

tim.fairhall - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Matt

grp - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with jon_ridley

jon_ridley - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Geoff Pyatt

Needed a little bit of brain power, but the key was to get feet high! Even in the hot weather the 'polish' isn't that bad. Just have to be creative with footwork.
ron244 - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/11 with Peter Bird

The Rockfax guide says "a butch exercise": it doesn't lie! The hard climbing is short and well protected though.
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/11

Danny Bags - Lead - 24/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 23/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd dog - 22/Aug/11

BenRyle - Lead dog - 01/Aug/11

Another failed attempt to 'clean' this route. Placed good gear beneath the crux; a wire in the crack above (size 2 BD Stopper) and a hex well-seated in the groove to the left (size 6 WC Rockcentric). Moving up to the crux I had a failure of strength and couldn't hold on or pull myself over. At least the gear held nice and solid. One day...
fragglerock - Lead dog - 29/Jun/11 with Tom Prince

This was an entertaining start/crux - Get your bouldering head on and have strong arms :D
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/11 with Shijing Hu

karenhh - 2nd dog - 28/Jun/11 with Tom Brierley

Richard Kemble - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/11 with Ellie Barnard

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jun/11

with Jane Mc Inally and Heather Williams
Loubylou - 13/Jun/11 with Ben Ashley

Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Jun/11

jchenoweth - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Marc

Good effort by Rob considering it was his third ever HVS. The climbing is straight forward and well protected but powerful and awkward at the same time.
Quarryboy - 2nd O/S - 22/May/11 with Rob Stanfield

Great route. Once you reach the big undercut and crack you can get bomber gear in. You can actually enjoy the crux, knowing you have a good chance of living if you fall. Recommend getting wires in the crack and then down climbing to the slopy ledge to de-pump. Polish really isnt as bad as comments have said!
Stanners - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Jack Bradbrook

Monk - Lead rpt - 02/May/11 with PerrinT

Loved this route!
PerrinT - 2nd - 02/May/11 with Monkey

rapidrich - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Simon

suffolknick - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/11 with clams

Jurga doesn't like polished limestone.
smollett - Lead - Apr/11 with jurga

Jurga - 2nd O/S - Apr/11 with James

OK - so there's a bit of polish, but it's not that bad... Maybe a bit more notable below and around the crux. It was only the left foot smear that felt a little insecure. Cool route though. Definitely deserves a star.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/11 with J

The Norfolk Machine eventually powered his way up this with much puffing and cursing only for me to dog the second. Having removed enough protection to stop even a falling elephant I set about working out the crux. Should have paid more attention to TNM's efforts, but was distracted by a falling walkie talkie just missing me from an instructor on an abseil course to my left. Basically on my tenth attempt I found the whopping jug on the left of the overhang just where the rope was hiding it, having slipped and slided my way on it for the past twenty minutes trying to lay back it. Piece of advice: don't bother trying to layback it. Find the jug instead. Finally gave in with forearms looking like a bouncy castle. To be repeated.
ashley_sandeman - 2nd dnf - Mar/11 with Richard Miles

Clay C - 2nd O/S - 09/Feb/11 with Seb, Harry K, Will A

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Feb/11

31770 - 2011

tom.o.prince - 2nd O/S - 2011

Danny Bags - 2011

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 2011 with Merlin March

lostinmidlands - Lead O/S - 24/Nov/10 with halfwaythere

Touched the jug. Then failed.
crossdressingrodney - Lead dnf - 24/Oct/10 with tom mills

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 24/Oct/10

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10

Used an insecure jam up left to reach the jugs: hard. Clare found a better way using underclings.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Clare

One well-dogged route
fragglerock - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/10 with Jon Lumb

Good protection yet daunting move. Polish is slightly annoying. Fun climb none the less.
TDembrey - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/10 with Steve

steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/10 with Todd Denbry

Took 3 falls at the crux before completing. Wall above tricky and route not over after crux!
wildrover220 - Lead dog - 06/Jul/10 with Niall Lusby

rested on crux after getting pumped cause of the extreamly high polish (imagine someone has poored oil on the foot holds. nearly backed of the corner below for same reason and only having one crap nut in
dan ely - Lead dog - 24/Jun/10 with jesse

Dunx - Lead O/S - 29/May/10 with Joe M

sbc - 2nd dnf - 24/May/10 with Joe M, Dunx

mark schramm - Lead - 15/Apr/10 with si

Great fun. I Reckon it's worth a star just for the crux position. Polish wasn't an issue. A big committing move with good gear below.
Will Homoky - Lead β - 09/Apr/10 with Tom Whitton

Simon Allcock - 2nd - Apr/10 with Mark

a stiff HVS warm-up
Jon Didymus - 2nd O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Rich

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/10

hutchay - 2nd O/S - Jan/10 with Dave Nicholl

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Phil PBC - 2010

scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 2010 with Paul, Caspian

clams - Lead - 2010 with LM

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2010 with Nick Smith

TR909 - Lead - 2010

Dunx - Lead β - 13/Sep/09 with Joe M

joeym - 2nd - 13/Sep/09 with duncan curry

Dunx - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Ru

rapidrich - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Andy Stripp; Gemma

Hidden - TR O/S - 15/Aug/09

highly polished on the first few moves
kiwi boy - 2nd dog - 01/Jul/09 with mike

rh5980 - 2nd - 11/Jun/09 with jh5638

lush route should get stars! exciting and well protected crux.
shyster boulder - Lead β - 09/Jun/09 with alex harper

mol - 2nd - 05/Jun/09 with Jesse

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 05/Jun/09 with Molly Thompson

I defy anyone over fourteen stone to do this without a rest.
ruaidh - Lead dog - 03/Jun/09 with Tom

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/09

deklan - Lead - 24/Mar/09 with jamie

Anthony Allsopp - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Sandy Holford

Bern - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Sam

PerrinT - 2nd - 2009 with Monkey

Hidden - Lead - 23/Aug/08

sdkoutdoor - 2nd - 08/Aug/08 with That Guy!

Always a pleasure (not)
ruaidh - Lead dog - 03/Aug/08 with Paul

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/May/08

Cheated dramatically by aiding the crux move! This was Bernard's first HVS - pretty tough one to pick, and he led it cleanly!
Chris Sansum - 2nd dog - 05/Apr/08 with Bernard (aka crimponite123)

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Apr/08

Failed to lead this, couldn't reach the jug over the top. Finally got there on second by using underclings and getting my feet up high - wish I was taller! As others have said, it's not *that* polished really.
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 04/Apr/08 with Will

A tri-cam is well usefull for the start
crimponite123 - TR dnf - Apr/08 with Chris

Nice route, the polish wasn't too bad at all. Slightly dissapointing after the crux though.
Robfromcornwall - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/08 with Sophie Schweyer, Shep

The crux is a bit of a laugh, but the rest is a little disappointing, especially after the crux, especially having to climb through a spiky hedge to get to the belay!
Shepsi - 2nd O/S - 23/Feb/08 with Rob Clement, Sophie Schweyer

Al Franks - Lead rpt - 17/Feb/08 with Felicia Line

Alasdair88 - Lead rpt - 17/Feb/08 with Flic

Wet and polished, decided it just wasnt worth it
chiverstom - Lead dnf - 22/Dec/07 with Callum Chivers

Is it really that polished? No. Did I climb it in good style? No. Is it fun in the dark? Yes.
Circus - Lead rpt - 27/Oct/07 with Loz

yes yes there's only one polished hold. fun!
Dr Caterpillar - 2nd O/S - 27/Oct/07 with Adam

A disgustingly polished lead. Scary and not at all fun. Stepped up to carry on after Clive wisely backed down because of the polish. I just committed myself deeper, then had to traverse onto the VS to the right. The rope drag was too great by then, so had to abb of a small tree. This route would have been great once, but it's had its day. Every hold is like glass. It's just not fun, don't bother.
Tom Last - Lead dnf - 13/Oct/07 with Clive

luke2442 - Oct/07

CarolineH - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/07 with Mark

Monk - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Matt H

Al Franks - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/07 with Sam Howell

Alasdair88 - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/07 with Sam Howell

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Sep/07 with Jim Jarvis

Mowglee - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/07 with Barrows

Problematic crux made even more difficult by the avon polish. Good pro at crux and great jug over the flake (Out of site).
deanster01 - Lead dog - 05/Jun/07 with Tom Ansell

Rested once below the undercut block before realising it was undercut! Read the guidebook description!!
KarlH - Lead dog - 26/Feb/07 with Belaybev

Matt Tranter - 2007

Stone Muppet - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/06

Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Jun/06

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Jun/06

maresia - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/06 with Mike Kann

pattisonr - Jun/06 with Matt

tom.e - 2nd rpt - 05/Apr/06 with Charlie Everett

Fat Tim - Lead β - 03/Apr/06 with Rob McGregor

RedFox - Lead - 09/Feb/06 with J Spoor

Hard crux!
beardy mike - Lead O/S - 2006 with Philippe Azzi

John Lisle - 2006

Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 2006

Marcus - 2006

Hidden - Lead dog - Jul/05

tom.e - Lead β - 2005

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2005

phsharpy - Lead RP - 2005 with Bethan Davies

aldred - Lead dnf - 2005 with Russ

furry - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/04 with Neil

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/04

Sort of like looking up a bob-sleigh run! Got up it without resting and found the jug, but left my large wires hanging from my first runner in the corner! Makes Jasper feel like gritstone!
ralphie - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with John

Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - May/04 with Dave Peachey

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 2004

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/03 with Alex

Boxy - Lead rpt - 21/Jun/03 with Mick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/03

Lev - Lead O/S - 05/May/03 with Cormac McFarlane

Richard Hall - 2nd - 14/Apr/03

Hidden - Lead - Feb/03

Beta? well the guide tells you there's a jug, so I slapped for it.
Paz - Lead β - 2003 with SN?, TC?

MikeC59 - 2nd - 08/Jun/02

IceMonkey1982 - 2002

gimmer - 2001

Hidden - 2nd - Nov/00

Jim Brooke - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/00 with Chris Gudgeon

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - Solo O/S - 21/Jun/99

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/98

Hidden - Lead dog - 1996

mikej - Lead - 18/Nov/95 with Nick Salmon

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

colin milton - Lead - 30/Jul/94 with eric milton

GAtkins - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/94 with Neil

Fell off and had an unpleasant harness/testicle incident.
AndySL - Lead RP - 01/Jul/93 with Mark

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/92

Hidden - Lead - 06/Oct/92

Okecroak - 2nd - 27/Sep/92 with M Mercy

Budge - Lead O/S - May/92 with Brian Ottewell

ChrisJD - TR - Dec/91

Hidden - Lead - 23/Apr/90

Mal Grey - Lead O/S - 1990

strapless - Lead - 1990 with Ju

ChrisJD - TR - 15/Oct/89

surfbish - Lead O/S - Mar/89

ChrisJD - Lead - 19/Jun/88

mark-abz - Lead - 25/Oct/87 with Andy W

bullybones - Lead - 1987

Pete Nugent - Lead - 28/Apr/85 with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)

JamieAyres - 2nd - Apr/85 with Mark Hopkins

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/83

Hidden - Solo O/S - Sep/82

Steve Bell - 1981

Hidden - Lead β - 07/Jul/79

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
catty_9, JoeE, Richardlake, scarp, mullermn, NeilOMalley, Dave Ing, aipattison

Total votes cast 168
hard E10 of 59
E10 of 59
easy E17 of 59
hard HVS17 of 59
HVS31 of 59
easy HVS4 of 59
hard VS0 of 59
VS0 of 59
easy VS0 of 59
hard 5b0 of 59
5b0 of 59
easy 5b10 of 59
hard 5a39 of 59
5a9 of 59
easy 5a1 of 59
hard 4c0 of 59
4c0 of 59
easy 4c0 of 59
3 Stars0 of 50
2 Stars13 of 50
1 Star31 of 50
0 Stars6 of 50
Bag of .....0 of 50
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP