A slightly misguided belief that I could climb this after a long evening on the beers and little sleep got me into a spot of bother. Straight forward up to the middle section, where the polish is horrid and makes smearing and finding good foot placements tricky. Protection is good in the crack on the left. Rested before attempting to pull up over the top, arms failed me and I fell a good 4 or 5m. Had to ab to retrieve gear. Great route, will be back for it...Richardlake - Lead dnf - 14/Sep/14 with William Lake
leo-z-g - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Alex Prentice
Hidden - Lead - 05/Sep/14
Even more shiny than I remember.
Nick Russell - 2nd rpt - 22/Aug/14 with Alex Winter
Had backed off the solo the week before. Steady enough, although a bit shiny in places.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/14 with Nick
riff156 - Lead dog - 17/Aug/14 with Jo Smith
LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/14
BoHeMlo - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/14
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead rpt - 02/Jul/14 with Shijing Hu
Exciting moves to amazing jugs on the lip. Worth some stars imho
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/14 with Nick Whimster
robh14 - Lead - 19/Jun/14
Polish is off putting but the moves are fairly straight forward.
felixizzy - Lead β - 08/Jun/14 with Craig
Felt quite easy today.
pheotleyr - Lead RP - 05/Jun/14 with Jana
Couldn't get up the layback. Very polished. Not very fit.
humptydumpty - 2nd dnf - 12/May/14
Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/May/14
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/14
Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/14
Thuggy. Glad to get it clean.
Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Martin Haworth
Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Mar/14
Annoyingly took a rest before trying to go for the jugs. It's much easier than one would think really (still hard for HVS though).
pheotleyr - Lead dog - 10/Mar/14 with Mike
Took the first short wall on the right.
rested before the crux
Mayaculpa - 2nd dog - 10/Mar/14 with Peter
Bomber jams through the roof makes it easy. Wet today.
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14 with O.Lancett
Hidden - 2nd - 2014
Luke Davies - Lead - 07/Dec/13
evhall - Lead β - 07/Dec/13 with goat
alexjz - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/13 with Peter Amy
Cheese Monkey - TR O/S - 22/Aug/13 with Shunt
philmcf - TR dog - Aug/13
had problems getting over the overhange after just leading all of nightmare but a really nice climb
Tom Harper - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/13
climbEdclimb - 2nd - 18/Jul/13
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 06/Jul/13
alastairbegley - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Neil Morbey
Hidden - Lead dog - 18/May/13
Hidden - Lead dog - 15/May/13
Polish, rain and hail. My lucky day. Made the crux a breeze in comparison to the start.
squicky - 2nd O/S - 13/May/13 with Tommy
tommytuffa - Lead O/S - 13/May/13
Hidden - Lead β - 12/May/13
Anthony Dixon - 23/Apr/13
The most polished route in the world!
haydng - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/13 with Tony
tobydunford - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13 with Harry Martin
gripped01 - Lead - 20/Apr/13 with Dave Tait
therat - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13
Ground up. Took a fall from the crux first time, did it easily second time. Very good route but hard for the short.
BeccaSnowden - Lead RP - 17/Feb/13 with Tom
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 17/Feb/13 with Becca
A bit wet
lukehodson - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Alan Sage
jonbwoy - 2013
jcw - 2013
Seconded 2 yrs ago so beta lead
Jon Didymus - Lead β - 03/Aug/12 with Josh
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/12
Edvenables - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with Stephen Venables
Certainly one of the more polished routes, still enjoyably climbable. After work climb with not enough time, very very humid
Kemics - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/12
annoyed to fall off this, foot popped off near the end of the crux. got it fine next go, will come back to get it clean.
James S - Lead dog - 23/Jul/12 with dan
Dan0Me - 2nd - 23/Jul/12 with James S
Also removed the dead DMM camming device from under the crack - just for fun!
useful - TR RP - 15/Jul/12
Hidden - Lead - 23/Jun/12
Still a great route, polished crux adds to the tension..
Si Carter - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/12 with Colin Tiley
Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/May/12
daverichris - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/12
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12 with rd
Horrible lead, lot of power and no technique. Not nice to watch but lead without a fall. Maybe a second try to improve the style in the future?
Murilo Lessa - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Alex Desborough
cdent - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/12
Really stuffed my already damaged styomach muscles pulling through the hard move on this.
maresia - 2nd rpt - 03/Mar/12 with Tim Sanders, Mike Kann
mark schramm - Lead rpt - 14/Feb/12 with Lyndsay
Lyndsay Superclimber - 2nd O/S - 14/Feb/12 with Mark S
abtibbs - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Jack Verber
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/11 with Pete Saunders
had bit of struggle on this, but went ok once worked it out.
manwithacam - Lead - 04/Dec/11 with Joris
Joris.Roulleau - 2nd O/S - 04/Dec/11 with Dan Metcalfe
pffft - 2nd O/S - 20/Nov/11 with Dave
Faffed and didn't want to committ went fine straight after.
Dave89 - Lead dog - 20/Nov/11 with Chris k
According to the 2004 guide I'm an 'average Avon-goer'... because I struggled. The gear was good though.
JamesRich - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/11 with Rob stanfield
Harder than I remember, especially with two pairs of shoes tied to my harness. A great effort from James!
Stanners - 2nd rpt - 19/Nov/11 with James Rich
stafford101 - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Charlie
cbeard - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Chris Stafford
An alright warm up/intro to avon
Jack_F - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/11
grp - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with jon_ridley
jon_ridley - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Geoff Pyatt
Needed a little bit of brain power, but the key was to get feet high! Even in the hot weather the 'polish' isn't that bad. Just have to be creative with footwork.
ron244 - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/11 with Peter Bird
The Rockfax guide says "a butch exercise": it doesn't lie! The hard climbing is short and well protected though.
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/11
Danny Bags - Lead - 24/Sep/11
Hidden - Lead dog - 23/Aug/11
Hidden - AltLd dog - 22/Aug/11
BenRyle - Lead dog - 01/Aug/11
Another failed attempt to 'clean' this route.
Placed good gear beneath the crux; a wire in the crack above (size 2 BD Stopper) and a hex well-seated in the groove to the left (size 6 WC Rockcentric). Moving up to the crux I had a failure of strength and couldn't hold on or pull myself over. At least the gear held nice and solid.
fragglerock - Lead dog - 29/Jun/11 with Tom Prince
This was an entertaining start/crux - Get your bouldering head on and have strong arms :D
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/11 with Shijing Hu
karenhh - 2nd dog - 28/Jun/11 with Tom Brierley
Richard Kemble - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/11 with Ellie Barnard
Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jun/11
Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Jun/11
jchenoweth - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Marc
Good effort by Rob considering it was his third ever HVS. The climbing is straight forward and well protected but powerful and awkward at the same time.
Quarryboy - 2nd O/S - 22/May/11 with Rob Stanfield
Great route. Once you reach the big undercut and crack you can get bomber gear in. You can actually enjoy the crux, knowing you have a good chance of living if you fall.
Recommend getting wires in the crack and then down climbing to the slopy ledge to de-pump. Polish really isnt as bad as comments have said!
Stanners - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Jack Bradbrook
Monk - Lead rpt - 02/May/11 with PerrinT
Loved this route!
PerrinT - 2nd - 02/May/11 with Monkey
rapidrich - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Simon
suffolknick - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/11 with clams
Jurga doesn't like polished limestone.
smollett - Lead - Apr/11 with jurga
Jurga - 2nd O/S - Apr/11 with James
OK - so there's a bit of polish, but it's not that bad... Maybe a bit more notable below and around the crux. It was only the left foot smear that felt a little insecure.
Cool route though. Definitely deserves a star.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/11 with J
The Norfolk Machine eventually powered his way up this with much puffing and cursing only for me to dog the second. Having removed enough protection to stop even a falling elephant I set about working out the crux. Should have paid more attention to TNM's efforts, but was distracted by a falling walkie talkie just missing me from an instructor on an abseil course to my left.
Basically on my tenth attempt I found the whopping jug on the left of the overhang just where the rope was hiding it, having slipped and slided my way on it for the past twenty minutes trying to lay back it. Piece of advice: don't bother trying to layback it. Find the jug instead. Finally gave in with forearms looking like a bouncy castle. To be repeated.
ashley_sandeman - 2nd dnf - Mar/11 with Richard Miles
Clay C - 2nd O/S - 09/Feb/11 with Seb, Harry K, Will A
Hidden - 2nd - 09/Feb/11
31770 - 2011
tom.o.prince - 2nd O/S - 2011
Danny Bags - 2011
Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 2011 with Merlin March
lostinmidlands - Lead O/S - 24/Nov/10 with halfwaythere
Touched the jug. Then failed.
crossdressingrodney - Lead dnf - 24/Oct/10 with tom mills
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 24/Oct/10
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/10
Hidden - 2nd - 13/Oct/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10
Used an insecure jam up left to reach the jugs: hard. Clare found a better way using underclings.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Clare
One well-dogged route
fragglerock - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/10 with Jon Lumb
Good protection yet daunting move. Polish is slightly annoying. Fun climb none the less.
TDembrey - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/10 with Steve
Took 3 falls at the crux before completing. Wall above tricky and route not over after crux!
wildrover220 - Lead dog - 06/Jul/10 with Niall Lusby
rested on crux after getting pumped cause of the extreamly high polish (imagine someone has poored oil on the foot holds.
nearly backed of the corner below for same reason and only having one crap nut in
dan ely - Lead dog - 24/Jun/10 with jesse
Dunx - Lead O/S - 29/May/10 with Joe M
sbc - 2nd dnf - 24/May/10 with Joe M, Dunx
mark schramm - Lead - 15/Apr/10 with si
Great fun. I Reckon it's worth a star just for the crux position. Polish wasn't an issue. A big committing move with good gear below.
Will Homoky - Lead β - 09/Apr/10 with Tom Whitton
Simon Allcock - 2nd - Apr/10 with Mark
a stiff HVS warm-up
Jon Didymus - 2nd O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Rich
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/10
hutchay - 2nd O/S - Jan/10 with Dave Nicholl
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010
Phil PBC - 2010
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 2010 with Paul, Caspian
clams - Lead - 2010 with LM
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2010 with Nick Smith
TR909 - Lead - 2010
Dunx - Lead β - 13/Sep/09 with Joe M
joeym - 2nd - 13/Sep/09 with duncan curry
Dunx - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Ru
rapidrich - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Andy Stripp; Gemma
Hidden - TR O/S - 15/Aug/09
highly polished on the first few moves
kiwi boy - 2nd dog - 01/Jul/09 with mike
rh5980 - 2nd - 11/Jun/09 with jh5638
lush route should get stars! exciting and well protected crux.
shyster boulder - Lead β - 09/Jun/09 with alex harper
mol - 2nd - 05/Jun/09 with Jesse
Jesse Dufton - Lead - 05/Jun/09 with Molly Thompson
I defy anyone over fourteen stone to do this without a rest.
ruaidh - Lead dog - 03/Jun/09 with Tom
Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/09
deklan - Lead - 24/Mar/09 with jamie
Anthony Allsopp - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Sandy Holford
Bern - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Sam
PerrinT - 2nd - 2009 with Monkey
Hidden - Lead - 23/Aug/08
sdkoutdoor - 2nd - 08/Aug/08 with That Guy!
Always a pleasure (not)
ruaidh - Lead dog - 03/Aug/08 with Paul
Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/May/08
Cheated dramatically by aiding the crux move!
This was Bernard's first HVS - pretty tough one to pick, and he led it cleanly!
Chris Sansum - 2nd dog - 05/Apr/08 with Bernard (aka crimponite123)
Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Apr/08
Failed to lead this, couldn't reach the jug over the top. Finally got there on second by using underclings and getting my feet up high - wish I was taller! As others have said, it's not *that* polished really.
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 04/Apr/08 with Will
A tri-cam is well usefull for the start
crimponite123 - TR dnf - Apr/08 with Chris
Nice route, the polish wasn't too bad at all. Slightly dissapointing after the crux though.
Robfromcornwall - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/08 with Sophie Schweyer, Shep
The crux is a bit of a laugh, but the rest is a little disappointing, especially after the crux, especially having to climb through a spiky hedge to get to the belay!
Shepsi - 2nd O/S - 23/Feb/08 with Rob Clement, Sophie Schweyer
Al Franks - Lead rpt - 17/Feb/08 with Felicia Line
Alasdair88 - Lead rpt - 17/Feb/08 with Flic
Wet and polished, decided it just wasnt worth it
chiverstom - Lead dnf - 22/Dec/07 with Callum Chivers
Is it really that polished? No.
Did I climb it in good style? No.
Is it fun in the dark? Yes.
Circus - Lead rpt - 27/Oct/07 with Loz
yes yes there's only one polished hold. fun!
Dr Caterpillar - 2nd O/S - 27/Oct/07 with Adam
A disgustingly polished lead.
Scary and not at all fun. Stepped up to carry on after Clive wisely backed down because of the polish. I just committed myself deeper, then had to traverse onto the VS to the right. The rope drag was too great by then, so had to abb of a small tree. This route would have been great once, but it's had its day. Every hold is like glass. It's just not fun, don't bother.
Tom Last - Lead dnf - 13/Oct/07 with Clive
luke2442 - Oct/07
CarolineH - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/07 with Mark
Monk - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Matt H
Al Franks - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/07 with Sam Howell
Alasdair88 - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/07 with Sam Howell
gripped01 - Lead O/S - Sep/07 with Jim Jarvis
Mowglee - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/07 with Barrows
Problematic crux made even more difficult by the avon polish. Good pro at crux and great jug over the flake (Out of site).
deanster01 - Lead dog - 05/Jun/07 with Tom Ansell
Rested once below the undercut block before realising it was undercut! Read the guidebook description!!
KarlH - Lead dog - 26/Feb/07 with Belaybev
Matt Tranter - 2007
Stone Muppet - 2007
Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/06
Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Jun/06
Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Jun/06
maresia - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/06 with Mike Kann
pattisonr - Jun/06 with Matt
tom.e - 2nd rpt - 05/Apr/06 with Charlie Everett
Fat Tim - Lead β - 03/Apr/06 with Rob McGregor
RedFox - Lead - 09/Feb/06 with J Spoor
mike kann - Lead O/S - 2006 with Philippe Azzi
John Lisle - 2006
Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 2006
Marcus - 2006
Hidden - Lead dog - Jul/05
tom.e - Lead β - 2005
Hidden - Lead rpt - 2005
phsharpy - Lead RP - 2005 with Bethan Davies
aldred - Lead dnf - 2005 with Russ
furry - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/04 with Neil
Sort of like looking up a bob-sleigh run! Got up it without resting and found the jug, but left my large wires hanging from my first runner in the corner! Makes Jasper feel like gritstone!
ralphie - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with John
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - May/04 with Dave Peachey
_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 2004
DavidR - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/03 with Alex
Boxy - Lead rpt - 21/Jun/03 with Mick
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/03
Lev - Lead O/S - 05/May/03 with Cormac McFarlane
Richard Hall - 2nd - 14/Apr/03
Hidden - Lead - Feb/03
Beta? well the guide tells you there's a jug, so I slapped for it.
Paz - Lead β - 2003 with SN?, TC?
MikeC59 - 2nd - 08/Jun/02
IceMonkey1982 - 2002
gimmer - 2001
Hidden - 2nd - Nov/00
Jim Brooke - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/00 with Chris Gudgeon
Hidden - 2000
Hidden - 2000
Hidden - Solo O/S - 21/Jun/99
lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/98
Hidden - Lead dog - 1996
mikej - Lead - 18/Nov/95 with Nick Salmon
lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95
colin milton - Lead - 30/Jul/94 with eric milton
GAtkins - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/94 with Neil
Fell off and had an unpleasant harness/testicle incident.
AndySL - Lead RP - 01/Jul/93 with Mark
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/92
Hidden - Lead - 06/Oct/92
Okecroak - 2nd - 27/Sep/92 with M Mercy
Budge - Lead O/S - May/92 with Brian Ottewell
ChrisJD - TR - Dec/91
Hidden - Lead - 23/Apr/90
Mal Grey - Lead O/S - 1990
strapless - Lead - 1990 with Ju
ChrisJD - TR - 15/Oct/89
surfbish - Lead O/S - Mar/89
ChrisJD - Lead - 19/Jun/88
mark-abz - Lead - 25/Oct/87 with Andy W
bullybones - Lead - 1987
Pete Nugent - Lead - 28/Apr/85 with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)
JamieAyres - 2nd - Apr/85 with Mark Hopkins
charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/83
Hidden - Solo O/S - Sep/82
Hidden - 1981
Hidden - Lead β - 07/Jul/79