Rockfax Description
A butch exercise. Start below a recess 3m above the ground with a borehole strike at its back
Move up to the borehole, and then climb the right-hand wall to an easing below a steep crack and undercut wall, some good gear here. Make big moves to jugs over the lip and haul up to a resting place. Climb more easily to a bolt and then head right to finish up the cleanest line. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the boreholed recess below, beg your way up the huge undercut crack and heave over the top to follow the obvious line to a tree belay.

F E Bennett 08/May/1966

Ticklists: Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

onlyfoddington 25/Oct Lead O/S

Strenuous crux leading to aimless wandering

with James H
Kayan 25/Oct 2nd
Laurence20 23/Oct Lead rpt
with Brendan Greene
adam 24 11/Oct Lead O/S
with Caroline
Dino Dave 02/Oct Lead β
Hugobristol 02/Oct 2nd
with Dave
smartydh9 26/Sep Lead O/S
JoeCoxson 19/Sep 2nd O/S

Luke's lead, definitely reachy and pumpy

lukegorman 19/Sep Lead O/S
omaskrey 19/Sep 2nd O/S

Luke's lead. Reachy

Tim_C7 13/Sep Lead O/S
with Luke Williams
nickwhimster 13/Sep Lead β
Robheirene 21/Aug 2nd O/S

Really nice climb, roof has awesome climbing with huge jugs but some slippery polished footholds.

RichyBOYY 21/Aug Lead O/S
with David Clover
Hidden 21/Aug Lead O/S
Jack Porteous 08/Aug Lead G/U
lawlolly 29/Jul Lead O/S

Felt like a blank, committing start. Onwards to a well protected crack. Lovely finger and hand jams.

samvick1991 29/Jul 2nd dog
Laurence20 28/Jul Lead O/S
jammy4536 14/Jun 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 14/Jun Lead rpt
with Jamie MacLeod
Luxulyan 10/Jun 2nd
with Harry, Tom Murrell
Hidden 04/Jun TR O/S
Tala M 30/May 2nd O/S

Crux is quite burly but its the polish that makes it hard

Lil_Pete 25/May Lead G/U

Having got down from the slab earlier in the year as it dripped with water went back up to finish it. Tough as a shorty!

with Corin
Hugobristol 15/May Lead O/S
with Riccy
Hidden 15/May 2nd dog
Hidden 12/May Lead O/S
JoeE 10/May Lead dog

Had to rest on the overhang. Got quite interesting when my gear fell out during the main pull up move. Awesome climb despite the polish.

with Ashley Barnes
AshBarnes 10/May 2nd dog

Really hard to get over the nose and a lot of pump involved. Great fun otherwise

jon_ridley 21/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr Lead O/S
clams ?/Apr Lead rpt
with Chaz
Melonfly ?/Apr 2nd dog
with Dan HB
Hidden 08/Feb Lead β
Hidden ??/2015 -
mattprince 31/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Hard moves around roof. Pumpy route

with Lydia Miles
felixizzy 27/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Neil
Neil 27/Sep/14 Lead
Richardlake 14/Sep/14 Lead dnf

A slightly misguided belief that I could climb this after a long evening on the beers and little sleep got me into a spot of bother. Straight forward up to the middle section, where the polish is horrid and makes smearing and finding good foot placements tricky. Protection is good in the crack on the left. Rested before attempting to pull up over the top, arms failed me and I fell a good 4 or 5m. Had to ab to retrieve gear. Great route, will be back for it...

leo-z-g 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Alex Prentice
Nevil 05/Sep/14 Lead
with Mike
Nick Russell 22/Aug/14 2nd rpt

Even more shiny than I remember.

Alex Winter 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Had backed off the solo the week before. Steady enough, although a bit shiny in places.

with Nick
Hidden 17/Aug/14 Lead dog
LucasHarazin 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S
BoHeMlo 21/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Tom Brierley Gore 02/Jul/14 Lead rpt
monsteratt 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Exciting moves to amazing jugs on the lip. Worth some stars imho

with Nick Whimster
robh14 19/Jun/14 Lead
felixizzy 08/Jun/14 Lead β

Polish is off putting but the moves are fairly straight forward.

with Craig
pheotleyr 05/Jun/14 Lead RP

Felt quite easy today.

with Jana
humptydumpty 12/May/14 2nd dnf

Couldn't get up the layback. Very polished. Not very fit.

Hidden 04/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Thuggy. Glad to get it clean.

Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead dog
pheotleyr 10/Mar/14 Lead dog

Annoyingly took a rest before trying to go for the jugs. It's much easier than one would think really (still hard for HVS though).

with Mike
Mayaculpa 10/Mar/14 2nd dog

Took the first short wall on the right. rested before the crux

with Peter
Ollie B 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Bomber jams through the roof makes it easy. Wet today.

with O.Lancett
Hidden ??/2014 2nd
Luke Davies 07/Dec/13 Lead
Hidden 07/Dec/13 Lead β
alexjz 03/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 22/Aug/13 TR O/S
with Shunt
philmcf ?/Aug/13 TR dog
Tom Harper 29/Jul/13 Lead O/S

had problems getting over the overhange after just leading all of nightmare but a really nice climb

climbEdclimb 18/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd rpt
alastairbegley 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead dog
Hidden 15/May/13 Lead dog
squicky 13/May/13 2nd O/S

Polish, rain and hail. My lucky day. Made the crux a breeze in comparison to the start.

with Tommy
tommytuffa 13/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/13 Lead β
Anthony Dixon 23/Apr/13 -
haydng 23/Apr/13 Lead dnf

The most polished route in the world!

with Tony
tobydunford 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
gripped01 20/Apr/13 Lead
with Dave Tait
therat 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
BeccaSnowden 17/Feb/13 Lead RP

Ground up. Took a fall from the crux first time, did it easily second time. Very good route but hard for the short.

with Tom
thomasadixon 17/Feb/13 2nd rpt
with Becca
lukehodson 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S

A bit wet

jonbwoy ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Didymus 03/Aug/12 Lead β

Seconded 2 yrs ago so beta lead

with Josh
Hidden 01/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Edvenables ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Kemics 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Certainly one of the more polished routes, still enjoyably climbable. After work climb with not enough time, very very humid

James S 23/Jul/12 Lead dog

annoyed to fall off this, foot popped off near the end of the crux. got it fine next go, will come back to get it clean.

with dan
Dan0Me 23/Jul/12 2nd
with James S
useful 15/Jul/12 TR RP

Also removed the dead DMM camming device from under the crack - just for fun!

Hidden 23/Jun/12 Lead
Si Carter 01/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Still a great route, polished crux adds to the tension..

with Colin Tiley
Hidden 29/May/12 Lead dnf
daverichris 22/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with rd
Murilo Lessa 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Horrible lead, lot of power and no technique. Not nice to watch but lead without a fall. Maybe a second try to improve the style in the future?

with Alex Desborough
cdent 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
maresia 03/Mar/12 2nd rpt

Really stuffed my already damaged styomach muscles pulling through the hard move on this.

with Tim Sanders, Mike Kann
mark schramm 14/Feb/12 Lead rpt
with Lyndsay
Lyndsay Superclimber 14/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Mark S
abtibbs ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Jack Verber
Toby Dunn 05/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with Pete Saunders
manwithacam 04/Dec/11 Lead

had bit of struggle on this, but went ok once worked it out.

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 04/Dec/11 2nd O/S
pffft 20/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Dave
Dave89 20/Nov/11 Lead dog

Faffed and didn't want to committ went fine straight after.

with Chris k
JamesRich 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S

According to the 2004 guide I'm an 'average Avon-goer'... because I struggled. The gear was good though.

Stanners 19/Nov/11 2nd rpt

Harder than I remember, especially with two pairs of shoes tied to my harness. A great effort from James!

with James Rich
stafford101 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Charlie
cbeard 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Jack_F 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S

An alright warm up/intro to avon

tim.fairhall 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Matt
grp 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
jon_ridley 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
ron244 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Needed a little bit of brain power, but the key was to get feet high! Even in the hot weather the 'polish' isn't that bad. Just have to be creative with footwork.

with Peter Bird
Nick Russell 27/Sep/11 Lead O/S

The Rockfax guide says "a butch exercise": it doesn't lie! The hard climbing is short and well protected though.

Danny Bags 24/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Aug/11 AltLd dog
BenRyle 01/Aug/11 Lead dog
fragglerock 29/Jun/11 Lead dog

Another failed attempt to 'clean' this route. Placed good gear beneath the crux; a wire in the crack above (size 2 BD Stopper) and a hex well-seated in the groove to the left (size 6 WC Rockcentric). Moving up to the crux I had a failure of strength and couldn't hold on or pull myself over. At least the gear held nice and solid. One day...

Tom Brierley Gore 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S

This was an entertaining start/crux - Get your bouldering head on and have strong arms :D

karenhh 28/Jun/11 2nd dog
Richard Kemble 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S


Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd
Loubylou 13/Jun/11 -

with Jane Mc Inally and Heather Williams

with Ben Ashley
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead dog
jchenoweth 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Marc
Quarryboy 22/May/11 2nd O/S

Good effort by Rob considering it was his third ever HVS. The climbing is straight forward and well protected but powerful and awkward at the same time.

Stanners 22/May/11 Lead O/S

Great route. Once you reach the big undercut and crack you can get bomber gear in. You can actually enjoy the crux, knowing you have a good chance of living if you fall. Recommend getting wires in the crack and then down climbing to the slopy ledge to de-pump. Polish really isnt as bad as comments have said!

Monk 02/May/11 Lead rpt
with PerrinT
PerrinT 02/May/11 2nd

Loved this route!

with Monkey
rapidrich 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Simon
suffolknick 08/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with clams
smollett ?/Apr/11 Lead

Jurga doesn't like polished limestone.

with jurga
Jurga ?/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with James
andy dunn 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S

OK - so there's a bit of polish, but it's not that bad... Maybe a bit more notable below and around the crux. It was only the left foot smear that felt a little insecure. Cool route though. Definitely deserves a star.

with J
ashley_sandeman ?/Mar/11 2nd dnf

The Norfolk Machine eventually powered his way up this with much puffing and cursing only for me to dog the second. Having removed enough protection to stop even a falling elephant I set about working out the crux. Should have paid more attention to TNM's efforts, but was distracted by a falling walkie talkie just missing me from an instructor on an abseil course to my left. Basically on my tenth attempt I found the whopping jug on the left of the overhang just where the rope was hiding it, having slipped and slided my way on it for the past twenty minutes trying to lay back it. Piece of advice: don't bother trying to layback it. Find the jug instead. Finally gave in with forearms looking like a bouncy castle. To be repeated.

with Richard Miles
Clay C 09/Feb/11 2nd O/S
with Seb, Harry K, Will A
Hidden 09/Feb/11 2nd
31770 ??/2011 -
tom.o.prince ??/2011 2nd O/S
Danny Bags ??/2011 -
Pete Rigby ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Merlin March
lostinmidlands 24/Nov/10 Lead O/S
crossdressingrodney 24/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Touched the jug. Then failed.

Hidden 24/Oct/10 2nd dnf
pezzerrr 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Used an insecure jam up left to reach the jugs: hard. Clare found a better way using underclings.

with Clare
fragglerock 24/Aug/10 2nd dog

One well-dogged route

TDembrey 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Good protection yet daunting move. Polish is slightly annoying. Fun climb none the less.

with Steve
steve_gibbs 05/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Todd Denbry
wildrover220 06/Jul/10 Lead dog

Took 3 falls at the crux before completing. Wall above tricky and route not over after crux!

with Niall Lusby
dan ely 24/Jun/10 Lead dog

rested on crux after getting pumped cause of the extreamly high polish (imagine someone has poored oil on the foot holds. nearly backed of the corner below for same reason and only having one crap nut in

with jesse
Dunx 29/May/10 Lead O/S
with Joe M
sbc 24/May/10 2nd dnf
with Joe M, Dunx
mark schramm 15/Apr/10 Lead
with si
Will Homoky 09/Apr/10 Lead β

Great fun. I Reckon it's worth a star just for the crux position. Polish wasn't an issue. A big committing move with good gear below.

with Tom Whitton
Simon Allcock ?/Apr/10 2nd
with Mark
Didymus 07/Mar/10 2nd O/S

a stiff HVS warm-up

with Rich
Hidden 07/Feb/10 Lead O/S
hutchay ?/Jan/10 2nd O/S
with Dave Nicholl
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
scorpia97 ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Paul, Caspian
clams ??/2010 Lead
with LM
richiebongo ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
TR909 ??/2010 Lead
Dunx 13/Sep/09 Lead β
with Joe M
joeym 13/Sep/09 2nd
Dunx 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Ru
rapidrich 23/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/09 TR O/S
kiwi boy 01/Jul/09 2nd dog

highly polished on the first few moves

with mike
rh5980 11/Jun/09 2nd
with jh5638
shyster boulder 09/Jun/09 Lead β

lush route should get stars! exciting and well protected crux.

with alex harper
mol 05/Jun/09 2nd
with Jesse
Jesse Dufton 05/Jun/09 Lead
ruaidh 03/Jun/09 Lead dog

I defy anyone over fourteen stone to do this without a rest.

with Tom
Hidden 01/Jun/09 Lead rpt
deklan 24/Mar/09 Lead
with jamie
Anthony Allsopp 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Sandy Holford
Bern 01/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Sam
PerrinT ??/2009 2nd
with Monkey
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead
sdkoutdoor 08/Aug/08 2nd
with That Guy!
ruaidh 03/Aug/08 Lead dog

Always a pleasure (not)

with Paul
Hidden 11/May/08 Lead rpt
Chris Sansum 05/Apr/08 2nd dog

Cheated dramatically by aiding the crux move! This was Bernard's first HVS - pretty tough one to pick, and he led it cleanly!

with Bernard (aka crimponite123)
Hidden 04/Apr/08 Lead RP
thomasadixon 04/Apr/08 2nd rpt

Failed to lead this, couldn't reach the jug over the top. Finally got there on second by using underclings and getting my feet up high - wish I was taller! As others have said, it's not *that* polished really.

with Will
crimponite123 ?/Apr/08 TR dnf

A tri-cam is well usefull for the start

with Chris
Robfromcornwall 23/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Nice route, the polish wasn't too bad at all. Slightly dissapointing after the crux though.

with Sophie Schweyer, Shep
Shepsi 23/Feb/08 2nd O/S

The crux is a bit of a laugh, but the rest is a little disappointing, especially after the crux, especially having to climb through a spiky hedge to get to the belay!

with Rob Clement, Sophie Schweyer
Al Franks 17/Feb/08 Lead rpt
with Felicia Line
Alasdair88 17/Feb/08 Lead rpt
with Flic
chiverstom 22/Dec/07 Lead dnf

Wet and polished, decided it just wasnt worth it

with Callum Chivers
Circus 27/Oct/07 Lead rpt

Is it really that polished? No. Did I climb it in good style? No. Is it fun in the dark? Yes.

with Loz
Dr Caterpillar 27/Oct/07 2nd O/S

yes yes there's only one polished hold. fun!

with Adam
Tom Last 13/Oct/07 Lead dnf

A disgustingly polished lead. Scary and not at all fun. Stepped up to carry on after Clive wisely backed down because of the polish. I just committed myself deeper, then had to traverse onto the VS to the right. The rope drag was too great by then, so had to abb of a small tree. This route would have been great once, but it's had its day. Every hold is like glass. It's just not fun, don't bother.

with Clive
luke2442 ?/Oct/07 -
CarolineH 19/Sep/07 2nd dog
with Mark
Monk 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Matt H
Al Franks 04/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Alasdair88 04/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Sam Howell
gripped01 ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Jim Jarvis
Mowglee 19/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Barrows
deanster01 05/Jun/07 Lead dog

Problematic crux made even more difficult by the avon polish. Good pro at crux and great jug over the flake (Out of site).

with Tom Ansell
KarlH 26/Feb/07 Lead dog

Rested once below the undercut block before realising it was undercut! Read the guidebook description!!

with Belaybev
Matt Tranter ??/2007 -
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
Hidden 04/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/06 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Jun/06 2nd dog
maresia 01/Jun/06 2nd dog
pattisonr ?/Jun/06 -
with Matt
tom.e 05/Apr/06 2nd rpt
with Charlie Everett
Fat Tim 03/Apr/06 Lead β
with Rob McGregor
RedFox 09/Feb/06 Lead
with J Spoor
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S

Hard crux!

with Philippe Azzi
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Bristoldave ??/2006 Lead rpt
Marcus ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead dog
tom.e ??/2005 Lead β
Hidden ??/2005 Lead rpt
phsharpy ??/2005 Lead RP
with Bethan Davies
aldred ??/2005 Lead dnf
with Russ
furry 13/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Neil
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
ralphie ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S

Sort of like looking up a bob-sleigh run! Got up it without resting and found the jug, but left my large wires hanging from my first runner in the corner! Makes Jasper feel like gritstone!

with John
Andrew Barker ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Dave Peachey
_m.cox_ ??/2004 Lead O/S
DavidR 13/Aug/03 2nd O/S
with Alex
Boxy 21/Jun/03 Lead rpt
with Mick
Hidden 11/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Lev 05/May/03 Lead O/S
with Cormac McFarlane
Richard Hall 14/Apr/03 2nd
Hidden ?/Feb/03 Lead
Paz ??/2003 Lead β

Beta? well the guide tells you there's a jug, so I slapped for it.

with SN?, TC?
MikeC59 08/Jun/02 2nd
IceMonkey1982 ??/2002 -
gimmer ??/2001 -
Hidden ?/Nov/00 2nd
Jim Brooke 10/Sep/00 2nd O/S
with Chris Gudgeon
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 21/Jun/99 Solo O/S
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/98 Lead
lost.arrow 28/Apr/96 Lead
with Nigel Lynn
Hidden ??/1996 Lead dog
mikej 18/Nov/95 Lead
with Nick Salmon
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
colin milton 30/Jul/94 Lead
with eric milton
GAtkins 03/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Neil
AndySL 01/Jul/93 Lead RP

Fell off and had an unpleasant harness/testicle incident.

with Mark
Marti999 13/Nov/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/92 Lead
Okecroak 27/Sep/92 2nd
with M Mercy
Budge ?/May/92 Lead O/S
with Brian Ottewell
Hidden ?/Dec/91 TR
Phil Ingle 23/Apr/90 Lead

Climbed it with someone called Vince?

Mal Grey ??/1990 Lead O/S
strapless ??/1990 Lead
with Ju
Hidden 15/Oct/89 TR
surfbish ?/Mar/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/88 Lead
mark-abz 25/Oct/87 Lead
with Andy W
bullybones ??/1987 Lead
Pete Nugent 28/Apr/85 Lead
with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)
JamieAyres ?/Apr/85 2nd
with Mark Hopkins
charlesmfrench 12/Nov/83 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/82 Solo O/S
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden 07/Jul/79 Lead β
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jalien, catty_9, JoeE, Richardlake, scarp, mullermn, NeilOMalley, Dave Ing, aipattison
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 60
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set