Piton Route** VS 4c
[The line of Great Central Piton Route Eliminate, with a slightly easier and less direct variation dotted., 2 kb]58m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A 'Classic Rock' tick taking on the well defined right-to-left diagonal line that slants up the left side of the crest of the buttress. Start at a peg and nut belay at the top of Exhibition Slab.
1) 4c, 20m. Move left 6m to a wide corner. Climb the corner to a peg and the make a precarious sequence of moves left across the wall to an easing. Continue traversing left beneath the overhangs and then step down to a sloping niche and peg and nut belays.
2) 4a, 14m. Step back right and move up and then left to pass the overhang. Climb a slab on the left to a small tree and then continue up a short steep crack to a larger tree and belay.
3) 4b, 24m. Behind and left of the tree is a wall with a borehole. Take the wall via diagonal cracks, steep at first, to an easing up and left. Continue up ledges past a vertical iron spike and then via easier ground to the top and a substantial twin tree belay. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Classic Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Avon VSes.

Photo: The line of Great Central Piton Route Eliminate, with a slightly easier and less direct variation dotted. © Mike Unwin
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 517 logbooks, and on 53 wishlists.

lcullum7 - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/15 with Ben Crofts

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/15

Did in four pitches. Had to sit out a couple of showers on the belays.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/15 with J. Winter

Enjoyed the route. The first pitch certainly lives up to the routes reputation! Really good day over all
Rachael88 - 2nd - 19/Sep/15 with Trevers, Adam

P1 and P3, rather polished on P1 apart from that it's a great route.
BStar - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/15 with Trevers, Rachael

Led the second pitch. Tricky, interesting moves on polished rock and some great variety. Really good climb overall!
Trevers - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/15 with Rachael, BStar

Not as polished as I was expecting, very worthwhile route.
JoeCoxson - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/15 with Luke Gorman, omaskrey

4a pitch
lukegorman - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/15 with Olly maskery, Joe Coxson

3rd pitch.
omaskrey - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/15 with Luke Gorman, Joe Coxson

Great line, shame about the polish - esp on pitch 1
Gustav - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/15 with Adam bro

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 04/Sep/15

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 04/Sep/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/15

WillAndrew - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/15 with Ali

led first pitch and a bit of the second (by accident)
ali.scott - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/15 with Will A

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Aug/15

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Aug/15

Hidden - 11/Aug/15

Olly led the first pitch (I.e. the hardest and most polished!) which is really insecure in the giant scoop, slipping off there wouldn't be very fun for the leader. I ran the last 2 pitches together and near enough solo'd them, they are pretty easy. a 50m rope will just about let you get to the bomber tree root for a belay!
jsmcfarland - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/15 with Oli Hawk

led p1
jvarmstrong - AltLd - 16/Jul/15 with Chris

Led P 2+3 as 1
Chris Manasseh - AltLd - 16/Jul/15 with John Armstrong

Slick - 09/Jul/15 with Kevin Vans-Colina

steve_gibbs - 2nd rpt - 05/Jul/15 with Pauline Picchio

P1 and 3. Casual polish at every turn.
67hours - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/15 with Emilyford

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/15

nickwhimster - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/15 with dan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/15

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jun/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/15

First route in the gorge for a while. Bit polished in places but a fun route!
bonoid - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/15

Boogs - 2nd β - 11/Jun/15 with Paul Beds

Nice, it is polished but if you look you can put your feet mostly on holds that aren't that polished. Shame about the road noise but you forget this whilst your climbing. Thanks to Leon for meeting up!
beds74 - Lead - 11/Jun/15 with Boogs - Leon

purpledistorsion - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/15

Led P1 and 3. very polished on the first pitch, though it looks as though I went too high on the traverse, bridging up past the peg on polished footholds.
JamieSparkes - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/15 with Claire Holland

Hidden - Lead - 28/May/15

p1 & 3 shaun, p 2 & 4 myself,
cwildblood - Lead O/S - 21/May/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/May/15

Led pitch 3/3. Polished :( but then I do hate limestone...
andrewmcleod - AltLd O/S - 17/May/15 with Zack Coleman, Ed Walker

huwmjames - 2nd β - 17/May/15

Led p2, found the polish difficult throughout
danieleaston - AltLd O/S - 13/May/15 with Saz

P1 and p3 - interesting p1! Gear is interesting but just enough. P2 bold up slab!
saz_b - AltLd O/S - 13/May/15 with Dan Easton

Hidden - Solo O/S - 28/Apr/15

Brings new meaning to the word polished in places!
Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/15 with Si White

Having seconded the whole route last year, it was great to lead pitches 1 and 3. Rob led pitch 2. Great route, even with the polish on P1
Steve Bartle - AltLd rpt - 23/Apr/15 with Rob Morgan

Led second pitch, enjoyable climb! Was getting a bit dark on pitch 3!
Rob Morgan - AltLd - 23/Apr/15 with Steve Bartle

Led P1
will_benfold - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/15 with Sarah Woodrow

P1 & P3; Neil's first lead of the season (P2)
danbirkby - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/15 with Nige

Mike Bayley - 2015

Mike Bayley - 2015

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Oct/14

Martin1973 - AltLd - 23/Sep/14 with Huw Gilbert

P1 & 2
felixizzy - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/14 with Mike

sheelba - AltLd - 09/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead - 31/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/14

Very polished but a worthwhile route from the 'Classic Rock' era. Good moves on spaced gear.
Legs - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/14

mikedevcole - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/14

In hind sight it would have made a lot more sense to run pitches 1 + 2 together. Some lovely shiny pegs along the way. Strangely there is still a utterly rank casin ring peg on the 3rd pitch...which is the only piece of gear in a long run out. Soft touch for VS and 4c.
Kemics - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/14 with Juliuus

Led Pitch 1, Mark Joined 2 + 3. Not a great route but got the classic rock tick!
cheeky - 10/Jul/14 with Mark Philipson

lots of new pegs! some polish higher up. joined pitches 2 and 3.
mark4344 - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/14 with Matt Payne

Two stars is fair. Not too glassy but getting there.
CallumSmith - AltLd - 10/Jul/14

Ran P1 & P2 together.
Tom F Harding - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Steve Bartle

Steve Bartle - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Tom F Harding

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/14

alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14 with Becky Bagnall

polished in extreme
Loubylou - 2nd - 02/Jul/14 with Simon Reynolds

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jun/14

Harder comms than the north face of Ben Nevis in a blizzard, but a great route.
j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/14

jon_ridley - AltLd O/S - 21/May/14 with Jonny Forster

Rebs - AltLd - 16/May/14 with Ben Caley

bencaley - AltLd O/S - 16/May/14 with Rebs

With variations - the Inverted V on the second pitch and the Direct Finish instead of the 3rd pitch, the latter is really good value HVS.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 15/May/14 with Mike

With variations - the Inverted V on the second pitch and the Direct Finish instead of the 3rd pitch.
Mayaculpa - 2nd - 15/May/14 with Peter

joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14 with Matt Prince

Lead 2nd pitch. Polished route.
mattprince - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14 with Joe Doherty

tskelhon - AltLd - May/14 with Charlotte

clmacdonald - AltLd - May/14 with tskelhon

2nd pitch only.
pheotleyr - 2nd rpt - 29/Apr/14 with Oli

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/14

Martin1973 - AltLd - 23/Apr/14 with Huw Gilbert

Dino Dave - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Dad

Matt Amos - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/14 with Barney Adams

Nice outing, nice blalncey moves first pitch, nice little bit of exposure...
Tristypants - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/14 with David Pribelszki

matt.woodfield - AltLd rpt - 10/Apr/14

A little polished. Led P2 and P3.
thom_jenkinson - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Will Bourne

Led P1 and Thom did P2 and P3, would run the last two together in future. A good weaving line with some nice moves that are made a bit spicy due to the polish on P1
Ragingpossum - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/14 with thom_jenkinson

Great climb. Not as polished as the reputation of the venue had led me to expect. A reasonably cool day probably helped. I led second pitch which was quite run out.
bigbobbyking - AltLd - 16/Mar/14 with Gary Connor

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14

Climbed in 2 pitches
Pete Scott - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Jimbo

Continued P1 to belay on the higher ledge before the slab on P2. Ran the rest of P2 and P3 together.
matt_claydon - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/14 with Corin rathbone

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Feb/14

James Jackson - 2014

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

jonbwoy - 2014

yesbutnobutyesbut - 2014

Pitch 1&3 first climb of the day so seemed a hard vs and polished but can also see why it gets the stars.
casey johns - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/13 with Andrew willie wilson

Polished crux on pitch one is the worst I've seen!! Makes the moves very stiff for vs. rest of the route felt hs! Plenty of gear placements when you look. Remember to extend all pieces due to the direction of route! Good route in all pity about the shine
Andrew will wilson - AltLd - 08/Dec/13 with casey

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Nov/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/13

Kayan - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/13 with David Brock

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Nov/13

RamblingRyan - AltLd - 13/Nov/13 with Col

Hidden - Lead - 02/Nov/13

Hidden - AltLd dog - 20/Oct/13

in the rain
Matt_L_Robinson - AltLd - 20/Oct/13

avictimoftheDrpsycho - Solo O/S - 10/Oct/13

Great, varied pitches with derisory protection from ancient pegs. The Obstetricians move was full of water. Take a steady second for the first pitch.
AndySL - Lead rpt - 05/Oct/13 with Deano

Rained, slipped on first pitch. Lead by James Cullen.
lordsauce - 2nd dog - 16/Sep/13

stafford101 - 2nd rpt - 10/Sep/13 with George Frisby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/13

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Kirsty Kerr

matt.woodfield - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/13

andy dunn - AltLd rpt - 04/Sep/13 with Alan

lead in two pitches, tried to string the first two pitches together but rope drag put paid to that, had to belay halfway through second pitch
Webster - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/13

machine45 - 2nd - 02/Sep/13 with David Webster

Col Kingshott - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/13

jtree03 - AltLd - 28/Aug/13 with Col

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/13

Led P2 & 3, Rich led P1.
Will Gordon - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/13 with Rich Goodbody

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13

Led P1 and P3, M led P2 - good effort! Seemed harder than the final pitch, with bold moves up the slab
jalien - AltLd rpt - 06/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/13

sjbrook - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Jamie

zcsharp - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Sam

Simon did P1 & P3, I did P2. P1 is still polished, but otherwise still a good route.
localboy - AltLd β - 11/Jun/13 with Simon C

VPJB - Lead - 09/Jun/13

panda70 - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Matt Ryder, Tom Fraser

Dr Toph - Solo O/S - 05/Jun/13

HarryB - AltLd rpt - 04/Jun/13 with Tom

Anthony Dixon - AltLd - 31/May/13

Hidden - Lead - 31/May/13

Led pitches 1&3. Shame about the polish, a fun excursion nevertheless.
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 27/May/13 with Ben

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/May/13

Hidden - AltLd - 23/May/13

great climb, don't be put off by the name plenty of nuts around compared to other gorge VSs. superlight rocks came in handy. thought the first pitch was easier than both the others. the belay off to the left on the first pitch seemd awkward the twin pegs and nut on the right at the start of pitch 2 would have been better
carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 21/May/13

Luke Davies - AltLd - 08/May/13

Hidden - AltLd - 07/May/13

led the second pitch after seconding the first pitch of Central Rib
Chazwoz - AltLd O/S - 01/May/13 with Peter Rigby

jonlord - Lead - May/13

tompilgrem - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/13 with Dad

bobpilgrem - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/13 with Tom

mkonca - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/13 with steve gibbs

Approximately anyway. I took a lower line below and to the left of the original line on P2. (I think this is part of "central rib" in the rockfax book) I don't think that detracted too much from the route though, it was still very enjoyable. Shame about the polish, but this is Avon gorge!
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/13 with Emily

gingernick - AltLd - 03/Mar/13 with Daryl

A bit dissapointing. P1 was excellent and the 1st bit of p2 though. The polish on the traverse is approaching Chudleigh levels.
Cheese Monkey - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/13 with Goss

Split into 2 pitches. Very polished!
Deary65 - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/13

Some tricky moves traversing the roof leftwards, and a bit of faff abbing down to unclip the right rope from pegs to the right of the roof. On the whole, pitches 2 and 3 were much simpler, and the whole climb yielded some enjoyable views in glorious weather.
Eagertom - Lead - 16/Feb/13 with Hugo Hunt

hp.hunt - 2nd - 16/Feb/13 with Tom Eldridge

Hawkgirl - 2nd dog - Feb/13

Hidden - 2013

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 2013 with Mustafa

Hidden - 2013

Andy Chadwick - 2013

jcw - 2013

Hidden - 2013

mikeydee135 - Lead - 2013

Pitch 1 with no chalk was a grease fest for some reason. Pitch 2 and 3 was in down pour. None the less, banter with the G meister the whole way up and the thought of subway at the top made it a great laugh!
Stanners - Lead rpt - 19/Oct/12 with Andy G

CreepingExcellence. - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/12 with Rob Stanfield

steve-grigg - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Oct/12

mattshort - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Elly Pryce

Led p1 & 3
tim.fairhall - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Matt

P1 and P3
arandall - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Wendy Matthews

bottled crux on p1, retreated, pete managed it. the polish is pretty savage in places, and like all avon routes gear is spare
Matt Schwarz - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Pete north

Wendy Watthews - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with arandall

better than my impression after doing it for the first time
pheotleyr - AltLd rpt - 28/Jul/12 with Colin

colin milton - AltLd - 28/Jul/12 with peter

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Jul/12

Led pitch 1
Mark Salter - Lead dnf - 05/Jul/12 with Chris Shorrock

P1 Me, P2 Brian, P3 Jon
timstyles - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12 with Brian Vaughan, Jon Bradley

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/12

climbingchippie - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with steve collard

George Frisby - 2nd rpt - 14/Jun/12 with Chris

A thought provoking line. Only 4c because of the polish, requiring some careful footwork on the crux. Lead in 2 pitches, skipping the cave stance belay.
stafford101 - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/12 with George Frisby

Murilo Lessa - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Alex Desborough

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/12

led p2
steveprice.exmouth - AltLd - 04/Jun/12 with David Coley

Used a hanging belay on the 1st belay. Good climb
George Frisby - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 24/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/May/12

Lead p2&3 as one
mikeyg - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Becky Butcher, Will Twigger

polished, otherwise felt pretty easy, lead p1 and p2 as one pitch
pheotleyr - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Todd

Interesting, but never with enough continuous entertainment to truly relish the route. The polish was nowhere near as bad as I expected. The line is easy to follow (massive chalk palm hand prints for a start!) Generally good, but not amazing.
Rampikino - AltLd - 31/Mar/12 with Cat

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Mar/12

Stone Muppet - Lead rpt - 11/Mar/12 with am

ben.richards - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Piers Gudgeon

Led P1 and 3
HarryB - AltLd rpt - 26/Feb/12

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/12

Geo pitch 1-1.5, Chris pitch 1.5 to 3
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 12/Feb/12 with Geo

Pete Rigby - Solo rpt - Feb/12

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 25/Jan/12 with Mick Ward

Anthony Dixon - AltLd - 22/Jan/12

I led the second pitch, which I found hard. Although having now read Classic rock and got the beta, think I would have found it easier.
Fatclimber - AltLd - 14/Jan/12 with Lee

Very polished crux on P1. Not a 3 star route for me but not bad. (Ld p1)
jezb1 - AltLd - 08/Jan/12

Led pitches two and three; linked these together. One precarious, polished crux move on the first pitch. An enjoyable, if a little scrappy outing. Not quite worthy of three stars for me.
sophiecb - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/12

Hidden - 2012

davidtrelawnyross - 2012

Ian JL - 2012

alan moore - 2012

Stewart Armstrong - 2012

abtibbs - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Jack Verber

beckybutcher91 - 2nd - 2012 with Will Twigger, Mike Gadd

Andy Chubb - AltLd - 13/Nov/11 with Nick Gregory

bemdl - AltLd - 30/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead - 20/Oct/11

Gary S - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Tom Moat

I led P1 - first successful VS 4c lead :)Traversing left across the slab was really scary. Sorry for taking so long over it, Charlie!
Katherine Ross - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/11 with Charlie Beard

cbeard - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/11 with Katherine Ross

Lovely Climbing. Not polished much at all. Very nice and didn't feel as run out as I was.
pffft - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/11 with Jojo Mills

Climbed this on a wet and windy monday instead of work for Toms birthday. 2nd pitch was the worst polish and more than the 4a given. I lead 1 & 3 very enjoyable. Belayed from original stance on the two pegs plus tiny nut. next time will belay after next ledge.
patkubrick - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/11

djking1983 - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Steve Knaggs

Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with duncan

Went straight through 1st belay making it a 2 pitch route.
reece.robinson - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Kev Faux

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 20/Aug/11 with Les Deakin

Lead P1 & P2 clean then had to ab off as the rain came in. Will be back for the top pitch though, this is a lovely little route. Polish not anywhere near as bad as I expected.
joeurwin - Lead dnf - 12/Aug/11 with Heather

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/11

Another cracking climb, very polished but i suppose you have to expect that from a "Classic Rock route"!
SamStokes - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/11 with Mike Scott

A good route but the 3rd pitch is very polished at the start. Jack joined P1 and P2 together and I did P3
JamesRich - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Jack Bradbrook

First route I climbed with my first pair of 5.10 Anasazi Verde's. Slightly trickier than I remember But still soft for the grade none the less, just a little bold in places.
Quarryboy - AltLd rpt - 09/Aug/11 with James Rich

A good route, polished but not overly so. The main difficulties are on the first pitch
petegunn - AltLd - 28/Jul/11 with Davina

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/11

Polished in places, but you can find alternative footholds. Very enjoyable for a Tuesday morning when I should have been working ;-)
Ant Mace - Lead β - 27/Jul/11 with Mike Mace

1st pitch terrifyingly polished. The rest was much nicer.
yehti - Lead - 23/Jul/11 with Susan Young

girlymonkey - 2nd - 23/Jul/11 with Tom Young

bonelessivar - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11 with Andy

mandy - AltLd - 11/Jul/11 with rick

kyle - 01/Jul/11

Very nice, polish present but not a problem. Lovely climbing.
Bobling - AltLd - 29/Jun/11 with James P

Led P1 and P3. Some interesting balance move on first pitch, good fun. The polish wasnt as bad as expected!
Poco Loco - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Robert

Lead Pitch 2
Kate Edhouse - AltLd - 28/Jun/11 with Kyle Worgan

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/11

Multi Pitch, 2nd Pitch Bold climbing!
DOVEY - Lead - 14/Jun/11 with Billie x

Third pitch only, the best one - no horrid polish apart from very start, which is excellent
PaulWatson - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/11 with Dan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/11

jas128 - 2nd β - 03/Jun/11

Darrell Read - Lead - 25/May/11 with Simon Hall

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/May/11

Me 1 (in spitting rain) & 3, Kylie 2. Not very satisfying, didn't find my groove and took too long/got too nervous to be pleased with it. Brand new shoes, rain and a month off from trad probably not helping.
mullermn - AltLd O/S - 15/May/11 with Kylie Richards

Hidden - 06/May/11

Didn't seem as polished as last year - strange!
Slick - Lead - 03/May/11

Egons Issy - 2nd - 03/May/11 with Richard Nicholson

Very enjoyable, interesting little crux on the 1st pitch!
BB1 - 2nd - 30/Apr/11 with P Ross

Led first pitch happily but second needed to ab off after getting the fear on the polished, traversing crux move.
Dave Ing - Lead dnf - 22/Apr/11 with Ruth

HVS finish.
Joolz - AltLd - 21/Apr/11 with Relph Higson

pitches 1 and 3
hutchay - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/11 with Andy Clay

Led P3. Great climbing! Not as polished as some routes but still annoying.
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Jack Bradbrook

Joined the first 2 pitches together then Rob finished off the third. (speed ascent)
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Rob Stanfield

A really good route. Not as polished as I remember either.
andy dunn - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/11 with Big Ben

Great fun route
kingrollo - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/11

A nice climb chock full of pitons. The first pitch is the spicier of the bunch and the final pitches fairly mundane in comparison. Still, a good outing, and nice views from the beyal ledges.
ashley_sandeman - AltLd - 02/Apr/11 with kingrollo

Nicked off work early and climbed with Matt Swannell. First time back on steep rock for a while so Matt led all pitches. Weather fine.
Jeavsy - 2nd - 01/Apr/11 with Matt Swannell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11

Cornish_James - 2nd - 27/Mar/11 with Johnny Sneller, Ross Davidson

Pete did 1&2 together I did 3
nick hawkins - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/11

halfwaythere - AltLd - 22/Mar/11 with nick hawkins

Night Climb
Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/11

Led all pitches
HarryB - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/11

Led P1 & 3, Al led P2. P3 was a bit of a scramble, but otherwise good route. A bit polished, but actually not that bad for the Gorge!
aipattison - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/11 with UBMC

TDembrey - Lead rpt - 02/Mar/11 with Rob

Solo top-roped whole route, re-anchored on descent to follow the route. Followed the line of polish and piton scars all the way up. Fun.
Dave Ing - TR O/S - 20/Feb/11

brianrunner - 2011

31770 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

saintlade - 2011

rurp - Lead - 2011

Danny Bags - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/10

Lead 3 pitch, merl joined 1st and 2nd. Lovely 1st pitch.
suffolknick - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/10 with clams

kenneM - AltLd - 16/Oct/10 with Steve Marner

Stan011 - 2nd - 08/Oct/10 with Mike Coles

I started leading the 1st pitch then wussed out, so Alan lead pitch 1 and 3; I lead pitch 2. A pleasant route, but lots of the bolts seem pointless as there's good gear placements right by them.
catemuir - AltLd - 06/Oct/10 with Alan Sage

led p1 and p2 in one
clams - AltLd O/S - Oct/10 with NB

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Oct/10 with Jason Williams

Lead P2&3. Clay P1.First pitch was very polished and caught me by suprise, the rest was good climbing.
TDembrey - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/10 with Clay

Clay C - AltLd rpt - 17/Sep/10 with Todd

ron244 - Lead rpt - 02/Sep/10 with Peter Bird

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Aug/10

Tenko - 15/Aug/10 with Guy Williams

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Aug/10

Simon lead 1 and I lead 2 & 3. Felt a long way between gear on occasion.
localboy - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Simon F

Led P1, Mike led P2 and 3
simonf - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/10

P1&p3. Polish not too bad. Great route: p2 obstetrician's move was tight, warm and very damp. Lots of pitons!
Jon Didymus - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/10 with Peet

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/10

ben bowry - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/10 with Caspar

amazing. polished bad
dan ely - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10 with jon

Slick - AltLd - 21/Jun/10 with Kevin Vans-Colina

lead middle pitch, good climb
redshapedfriday - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with gareth greeves

Lovely climb, polish on first pitch not as bad as lead to believe.
ron244 - Lead O/S - 18/May/10 with Mike Connor

3rd pitch: really enjoyable, a great route.
mpc - 2nd O/S - 18/May/10 with Ron Thomas

Hidden - AltLd - 17/May/10

I lead the middle bit, Neil the first and third bits... was kinda polished ! but good
Tom Brierley Gore - AltLd - 17/May/10

Hidden - Solo rpt - 07/May/10

very shiny first section i led the middle bit
katherinesydney - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/10 with mike kann

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10

Polished, ive seen less polish in Mr Sheen it makes the first pitch v un-nerving as I did not trust my feet. Collected 4 v short quick draws and sling on the route as it looked like someone had bailed out after pitch one.
gingergeorge - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/10 with rcp

Epic number 2!
Quirina - 2nd dnf - 19/Apr/10 with Neil Larsen

Hidden - Lead dnf - 19/Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/10

Led 2nd and 3rd pitches
Clay C - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Eleri

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/10

Rosea Day - AltLd O/S - Mar/10 with Thomas Heslam

TR909 - Lead O/S - 2010

Phil PBC - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2010

Fred_Richard - Lead - 2010

Pitch 1&3 (backed off the HVS variation after seeing the peg!)
RedFox - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Tom K

excellent outing once again, incredible to thimk it was first climbed over 70 years ago. Looking forward to the next ascent
valuks1 - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09

Stone Muppet - 19/Sep/09

Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Sep/09

Don't be put off by some of the exaggerated comments about polish here. It's not particularly bad and doesn't much detract from a fine route. Led P1&3, with the HVS finish.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Dale

TimPerkin - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Richard Harris

Good fun route finger pockets good polish didn't bother us
Dale - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Andy

On drive south, after masses of rain and a cheeseburger. Very polished desperate traverse scared hell out of me, nice for an urban route.
jimorothy - Lead - 19/Jul/09 with Rachel Crolla

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/09

alan lead pitches 1 & 2 in 1 go - seems he was enjoying himself up there!. I finished up 3.
andy dunn - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/09 with Alan

I led pitch 1. Belayed a bit later than normal, which enabled us to do it in 2 pitches. Gary led pitch 2.
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 13/Jun/09 with Gary Lewin

Classic? A bit dull I think, especially at the top. Best combined with top pitch of Central Rib.
ruaidh - Lead β - 06/Jun/09 with Andy Hickman

Really is a classic, found the 'finger pockets' just when I needed them. Would like to lead next time. First pitch is most 'tricky', then easier after each pitch.
rorschach - 2nd - 01/Jun/09 with Andy Hills

led pitch 1 arnaud pitch 2
EmmanuelF - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with arnaud

Tricky Polished first pitch - rest straightforward.... interesting finger 'pockets' on pitch 2...
richardadventurecafe - AltLd - 10/May/09 with Andy Owen

IanGilbertJones - AltLd O/S - 04/May/09 with Richard Garnett

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 29/Apr/09

mullermn - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Kylie Richards, Monkey

Monk - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/09 with Andy A, kylie

And Mullermn
Kylie - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Monkey

Hidden - Lead - 27/Feb/09

I lead 1st and 3rd. Excellent route.
Monk - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/09 with Matt Hartgrove

Hidden - 2009

Spacetourist - AltLd O/S - 2009 with Rosea

tombushell - 2nd - 2009

Hidden - AltLd - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/08

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/08

Protheroe - AltLd rpt - 28/Sep/08 with Douglas Hamilton

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 28/Sep/08

Led 2nd (easiest) pitch. Excellent climb. Scary traverse on 1st pitch. You often only really appreciate good advice when you finally put it into practice, so thanks Alistair for the talk on feet the other week, it was invaluable.
PaulWatson - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/08 with Muny

Al Franks - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/08 with Claire

cy - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/08 with Al

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/08 with Claire

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08

martinazando - AltLd - Jun/08 with Alex Walker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/08

Moved together for a bit of alps practice
georgeevans88 - Solo O/S - 07/May/08 with Harry

Well chuffed to have soloed this - first big VS solo and was very nevous about it but held it all together nicely apart from having a bit of a wobbler on pitch 3 at the steep bit which I've never liked even with a rope on!
beardy mike - Solo rpt - 26/Apr/08

Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08 with Weilin Wang

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Andrew1 - Lead - 30/Dec/07 with Rachel Smith

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - Nov/07 with Emily

1st and 3rd pitches. Bit of a faff trying to find third pitch. Started up HVS variation before reversing and going the right way.
Circus - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Loz

led pitch 2
Dr Caterpillar - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Adam

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Emily

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/07

Duncan I - Lead - 16/Sep/07 with Toby Tyas

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/07

Led first and third pitches. Nice easy but steep moves on the third.
adamscottthomas - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/07 with Ellen Taylor

Led P2. Have doen others before many times...
chris sm - AltLd rpt - 05/Sep/07 with Ben Sutton

nice polish...
cornishben - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/07 with Chris Sims

tom.e - AltLd rpt - 01/Sep/07 with Charlie Everett

Al Palmer - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/07 with Ant

chedder - 2nd - 23/Aug/07 with chris thorne

p1,p3. p1 polished horror. p2+p3 nice
lithos - AltLd - 21/Aug/07

Troy had to lead the first pitch and I bottled the second one. Had to absail from double pitons plus one nut. Troy recovered the gear.
WRMusall - AltLd dnf - 19/Aug/07 with Troy

led pitches 1 and 3
Caralynh - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/07 with Dan (dpmuk)

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/07

Easy final pitch... Used the wet finger pockets on the 2nd pitch slab. ;-)
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/07 with Jon Thompson

maresia - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/07 with Mike Kann

Started raining heavily after the first pitch, strung two and three together. Brilliant!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/07 with Matt Frank

Richard Hall - AltLd - 16/Jun/07 with Sam Kendrick

leigh - 2nd - 09/Apr/07 with Ed

Lovely jubbly wouldn't want to have climbed in the 1940's though, slings to drape I see nowhere! Hobnail boots no chance, hemp rope around the waist just for shits & giggles not or me! Still a classic
jon thompson27 - AltLd O/S - Apr/07 with Alex Thompson

Hidden - Lead - Mar/07

mattf77 - 2nd - Jan/07

Hidden - 2007

haydng - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Rachel

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 2007

sea_lene - 2007

victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/06 with crossdressingrodney

crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/06 with alex malins, victim of mathematics

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/06

Pitches 2 and 3
chiverstom - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/06 with Jonny

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 29/Jun/06

sims - 2nd O/S - 13/May/06 with Nick

wildrover220 - Lead O/S - 06/May/06 with Neil Thomas

I led P2.
bpmclimb - AltLd O/S - 04/May/06 with Clare & Sandy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/06

Vastly over rated final pitch. Personally I finish up the last pitch of Central Rib giving more interest and making it more sustained. Otherwise a good route. Worthy of Classic Rock? Probably not...
beardy mike - Lead O/S - 2006 with Many

mikelaing - 2006

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 2006

Marcus - 2006

Steve Lenartowicz - 2006 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/05

D,M,D Variant 3rd pitch. Original grade VS 4b
Marq - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/05 with Daniel Dennehy

al99 - Lead O/S - Jan/05 with Jeremy king

tom.e - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

phsharpy - Lead O/S - 2005 with Bethan Davies

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Nov/04

furry - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/04 with Neil

FayeG - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/04 with Rory

ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/04

mol - AltLd - 05/Jun/04 with James Wasiak

Urgles - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Laura

Urgles - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Laura

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 19/May/04 with Phillipa Beale

Hidden - Lead - May/04

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/04

krikoman - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/03 with Kev Gibbs

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Oct/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/03

I lead the 4c pitch, Bryan lead the last 2 pitches in one push.
WRMusall - AltLd - 11/Oct/02 with Bryan Shenone

MikeC59 - Lead - 14/Aug/02

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/02

James Moyle - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/02 with P. McCourt

Paz - Solo O/S - 2002

IceMonkey1982 - 2002

Third pitch only.
AndySL - Solo O/S - 2002

Boxy - Lead O/S - 20/May/01

gimmer - 2001

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Apr/00

John Southworth - AltLd O/S - Mar/00 with Vicky Munn

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Feb/00

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - 2000

bullybones - 2000

timreynolds - AltLd - 11/Jun/99 with John Burnip

Hidden - AltLd - 1999

kevp - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/98 with Gareth Arnold

jim_randell - AltLd rpt - 07/Jun/98 with PS

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/98

ColdAndWet - Lead - 1998

JamieAyres - AltLd rpt - May/97 with Huw Davies

chrisrogers - 2nd O/S - Jul/96 with Dave ?

WRMusall - AltLd - 05/May/96 with Rick Stanley

p1 only (E1), then p2 of Piton route (4a), then p2 of Great Central Route (4b). Piton Route - 2nd
tracyclimber - 2nd - 30/Oct/95

tradguy - Lead O/S - 20/May/95 with Ed Lamb

ed_1973 - 2nd - 20/May/95 with paul highams

jim_randell - Lead rpt - 05/May/95 with MS

mikej - AltLd - 16/Apr/95 with Nick Salmon

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/95

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

chris wyatt - AltLd O/S - 1995 with Surfer Mark

Took ages with "The Sloth" lol
Mickdenali - 1995 with Keith Biddle

jim_randell - Lead rpt - 03/Dec/94 with RL, SL

jim_randell - Lead rpt - 08/Oct/94 with WW

jim_randell - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/94 with FW

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1994

Hidden - Lead - 1994

AndyB123 - AltLd - 1989 with Andy E

Nigel Coe - 26/Nov/88 with Mike Scott, Tim Dunsby

BigHairyIan - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/88 with Guy Summers

GuySummers - AltLd - 05/Apr/88 with bighairyian

Moses - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/87

mikej - AltLd - 12/Aug/87 with Pete Rowbottom

Tony Buckley - AltLd - Jul/87 with Robert Clark

Budge - AltLd O/S - 1986 with Bonds Western

rogerskews - AltLd - 21/Sep/85 with Martin Coward

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/84

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Sep/84

Had swung leads with Phil before on this. Since done it loads more times..
JamieAyres - Lead rpt - Jul/84 with Nigel Evans

Pete Nugent - AltLd - Mar/84 with John Derbyshire, Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)

Led1st and third pitch
Babika - AltLd - Mar/84 with John Rowland

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/83

andy gittins - 1983

andy gittins - 1983

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/82

RichardMc - Lead - 26/Sep/82 with Pip Jones

Climbed in May 81 with ropes.
stp - Solo rpt - 25/Mar/82

AlanLittle - AltLd - 1982

John Marsland - AltLd - Oct/81 with Ian Stopforth

bit polished
leland stamper - Lead O/S - Sep/81 with hugh rawson

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/81 with Alice Hampton

MikeDowsett - Lead - 03/Jan/81 with Jon Sharpe

Hidden - 1981

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/80

Chris Craggs - 1980

Mike C - 2nd - 24/Nov/79 with Walter Phipps

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 30/Sep/79 with Steve Portnoi

Hidden - Lead - May/79

Hidden - 2nd - 1977

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/76

Ken Taylor - Lead - 17/Feb/76 with Charles Towers

Mark Kemball - Lead - 11/May/75 with Norman

Mark Kemball - 2nd - Nov/74 with Charlie Cook

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 04/May/74 with Pete Bott

tapley - Lead - 30/Mar/74 with Alison Tapley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1973

How weird that this rather undistinguished, scruffy (traditional, quite demanding Hard Severe) route, worth one star at the most, is now a three-star VS. I wonder how this can be.
Gordon Stainforth - Lead - 19/Oct/69 with Bob ('Ginger') Thomas

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 20/Sep/69 with Andy Wild, Dennis Gray

Hidden - 2nd - 1968

Hidden - AltLd - 1965

uphillnow - 1965

My first proper climb. Led 2 weeks later. It was polished then too. I can still smell it.
Oliver Hill - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/64

Dave Morris and I on a RUMC meet at Avon, also climbed Desperation and another route
oldmanofmow - Lead O/S - 15/May/57

The remark about 'Hobnailed' boots has opened memories. This route was my first proper lead in 1956. We had Viking nylon hawser laid rope tied round the waist and cheap plimsoles (daps) bought from Woolworths for 6s 8d (33p). As I remember it was then less than VS.
Fred S - Lead rpt - 1956 with Can no longer remember name

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Total votes cast 268
hard HVS0 of 93
HVS0 of 93
easy HVS0 of 93
hard VS4 of 93
VS71 of 93
easy VS15 of 93
hard HS3 of 93
HS0 of 93
easy HS0 of 93
hard 5a0 of 89
5a0 of 89
easy 5a0 of 89
hard 4c4 of 89
4c63 of 89
easy 4c18 of 89
hard 4b3 of 89
4b1 of 89
easy 4b0 of 89
3 Stars9 of 86
2 Stars55 of 86
1 Star21 of 86
0 Stars1 of 86
Bag of .....0 of 86
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat