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Last Slip*** E3 5c

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[1966 Classic., 4 kb]A superb bold and memorable climb taking the blank wall and soaring groove right of Ffoeg's Folly. Start right of the 'starfish' graffiti at the base of the open corner of Ffoeg's Folly.. 1) 5b, 16m. Move right up an easy sloping ramp to its highest point and then make some fingery wall moves to easier ground and the first belay of Ffoeg's Folly. This is a very bold pitch that is unprotected and is often swapped for the first pitch of Ffoeg's Folly.. 2) 5c, 24m. Traverse right and climb up to reach a bolt on the left rib of the lower groove, move right and up to a small overhang. Enter the groove above with difficulty and climb boldly to a peg. Continue up the narrowing groove that curves right, before heading up a short corner on the left with a hard-to-spot ring peg at its top, then take the short slab above to a terrace and belay. Move down and right to the large fir tree and abseil off. © ROCKFAX
One of the most obvious lines on the wall. Start in a polished corner with graffiti across it, and bridge up to the large ledge (bolt belay) - worth a soft HVS 5a by itself. Move right about 3m - under the first multi-coloured groove - and climb to the bottom of the smooth, black groove (bolt). Make tenuous moves rightwards under a small roof, then attempt to get back into the groove slightly higher (crux - apparantly can be done direct from the bolt at E4 6a). Aim straight for the peg at the top of the groove and finish more easily.

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: 1966 Classic. © deepstar
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 60 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - 2014

Second pitch onsight, I'd soloed the first previously. Wow, good runout! The peg comes unhelpfully late, when you've already got the good holds. I reckon the technical crux is near the bolt, but it feels harder as you get further away from it. Just a case of hold it together and keep moving up!
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Alex Winter

Bit of a brown trouser job - good lead by Nick. Hardest bit is next to the bolt, but the top groove felt pretty wobbly. Forgot harness so wore a sling nappy.
Alex Winter - 2nd O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Nick

gimmer - 2013

jcw - 2013

Good, but not quite as stunning as description suggests. A one-move wonder really, followed by a couple of steady 5a moves which you wouldn't want to fall off on. Couldn't find any microwire placements, but bolt protects crux well.
msoldn - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/12 with Thomasina

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jul/12

Onsighted the E4 6a direct this time. A positive approach worked on this hot afternoon. Chris looked like some sort of Praying Mantis with his lanky legs all bent and doubled under him in some backwards sort of bridging move on the crux.
KRB - Lead rpt - 12/May/12 with Chris Bridges

Memorable, brilliant but extremely run out, necky climbing. Peg is pretty crap but if you've got that far you shouldn't really require its services anyway.
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/11 with Pete Saunders

I lead the far easier 1st pitch of ffoegs folly.
hms - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/11 with Tom

Pretty terrifying!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/11 with helen

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 19/Jul/11 with Ted Lister

My first E3, I really struggled up the crux on the second pitch, couldn't find much protection other than the pegs so it was a real run out. Definitely a Rear-Wheel-Drive climb. Challenging climbing - scared the crap outa me... probably wouldn't recommend it as a first E3 to others. Time to buy some micronuts
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Shijing Hu

karenhh - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/11 with Tom Brierley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd β - 12/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/Mar/11

Clay C - AltLd dnf - 09/Mar/11 with Ross

what a bloody brilliant route. 3 stars anywhere. Pretty bold, I've definitely done outes that felt less bold that get E4.
Ged Desforges - 2011

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/10 with Nick Smith

Hidden - TR dnf - 28/Aug/10

Rowansb - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/10 with Mungo Nash

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/08 with sam read

Succumbed quite readily to a positive attitude
KRB - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/08 with Martin Bridges

tonanf - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/07 with james c

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/06

Paz - 2nd rpt - 23/Sep/06 with AB

Damn. Having made it to the crux, the step into the groove defeated me. There is supposedly (Avon CC guide) a peg under the overhang on the right before stepping back into the groove. Couldn't find it, but a reasonable (but not confidence inspiring) micro-nut can be placed instead, and this is at the same height as the bolt, given a good fall-out zone. First pitch is a soft (but nastily polished for the first three moves) HVS 5a.
Pythonist - Lead dnf - 22/Apr/06 with Alistair McKelvie

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Jan/06

1st pitch only - 5a
JamieAyres - TR rpt - 29/Jan/06 with Ben Anderson

Hidden - 2006

Put it down as an on-sight but doing these logs subsequently discovered I led it in 1996 ! Have to admit I had a sense of deja-vu but put it down to the fear.
shark - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/05 with Pete

Hidden - AltLd dog - Feb/05

joe_alexander - 2nd dog - 2005 with tony penning

...and got it the next day.
Paz - Lead β - 03/Jun/04 with AS

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/03

Billg - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/01 with Megan Beaumont

Ally Smith - 2001

shark - Lead O/S - 10/May/96 with Sonia

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 28/Feb/95 with Andy Gill

NeilGriffiths - 16/Oct/94 with Duncs

A hot and sweaty evening. The first pitch (*) got my heart going - as well as the delicate moves high up on the second. * Direct up the middle of the wall to the right of the HVS flake/corner.
lowersharpnose - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/94 with Adam

GAtkins - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/94 with Neil

Roget - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/92 with jon

ChrisJD - 2nd - 19/Jun/88

Led p1. At a later date came back amnd led.
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 12/May/88 with Charlie Everett

bullybones - Lead - 1987

bottom pitch only of course..
JamieAyres - Lead rpt - Jun/86 with Peter Rickard

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily

given E2 5c at the time
John Marsland - Lead - 08/Sep/85 with Mark Cohen

bottom pitch only of course..
JamieAyres - 2nd rpt - Sep/85 with Rob Parker

found the top pitch desperate at the top of the groove and very bold
JamieAyres - 2nd - Jul/85 with Graham Aveyard

Hidden - Solo rpt - Jun/83

andy gittins - 1983

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/81

leland stamper - 2nd O/S - Mar/81 with Simon F&T

Hidden - 1981

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/79

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/69

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, andy dunn, Kenemo, Dr Caterpillar

Voting
Total votes cast 39
hard E40 of 13
E40 of 13
easy E41 of 13
hard E34 of 13
E37 of 13
easy E31 of 13
hard E20 of 13
E20 of 13
easy E20 of 13
hard 6a0 of 13
6a0 of 13
easy 6a0 of 13
hard 5c8 of 13
5c5 of 13
easy 5c0 of 13
hard 5b0 of 13
5b0 of 13
easy 5b0 of 13
3 Stars9 of 13
2 Stars4 of 13
1 Star0 of 13
0 Stars0 of 13
Bag of .....0 of 13
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 60 (1.7%)
Lead31 of 60 (51.7%)
Followed11 of 60 (18.3%)
Toproped2 of 60 (3.3%)
Alt Leads6 of 60 (10.0%)
Unknown9 of 60 (15.0%)

'Climbed'18 of 60 (30.0%)
clean O/S26 of 60 (43.3%)
clean β2 of 60 (3.3%)
clean rpt7 of 60 (11.7%)
dogged3 of 60 (5.0%)
dnf4 of 60 (6.7%)