Rockfax Description
A superb bold and memorable climb taking the blank wall and soaring groove right of Ffoeg's Folly. Start right of the 'starfish' graffiti at the base of the open corner of Ffoeg's Folly.
1) 5b, 16m. Move right up an easy sloping ramp to its highest point and then make some fingery wall moves to easier ground and the first belay of Ffoeg's Folly. This is a very bold pitch that is unprotected and is often swapped for the first pitch of Ffoeg's Folly.
2) 5c, 24m. Traverse right and climb up to reach a bolt on the left rib of the lower groove, move right and up to a small overhang. Enter the groove above with difficulty and climb boldly to a peg. Continue up the narrowing groove that curves right, before heading up a short corner on the left with a hard-to-spot ring peg at its top, then take the short slab above to a terrace and belay. Move down and right to the large fir tree and abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of the most obvious lines on the wall. Start in a polished corner with graffiti across it, and bridge up to the large ledge (bolt belay) - worth a soft HVS 5a by itself.

Move right about 3m - under the first multi-coloured groove - and climb to the bottom of the smooth, black groove (bolt). Make tenuous moves rightwards under a small roof, then attempt to get back into the groove slightly higher (crux - apparantly can be done direct from the bolt at E4 6a). Aim straight for the peg at the top of the groove and finish more easily.

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Hidden 26/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
Hidden ??/2014 -
Nick Russell 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Second pitch onsight, I'd soloed the first previously. Wow, good runout! The peg comes unhelpfully late, when you've already got the good holds. I reckon the technical crux is near the bolt, but it feels harder as you get further away from it. Just a case of hold it together and keep moving up!

Alex Winter 30/Nov/13 2nd O/S

Bit of a brown trouser job - good lead by Nick. Hardest bit is next to the bolt, but the top groove felt pretty wobbly. Forgot harness so wore a sling nappy.

with Nick
gimmer ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
msoldn 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Good, but not quite as stunning as description suggests. A one-move wonder really, followed by a couple of steady 5a moves which you wouldn't want to fall off on. Couldn't find any microwire placements, but bolt protects crux well.

with Thomasina
Hidden 09/Jul/12 2nd
KRB 12/May/12 Lead rpt

Onsighted the E4 6a direct this time. A positive approach worked on this hot afternoon. Chris looked like some sort of Praying Mantis with his lanky legs all bent and doubled under him in some backwards sort of bridging move on the crux.

with Chris Bridges
Toby Dunn 30/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Memorable, brilliant but extremely run out, necky climbing. Peg is pretty crap but if you've got that far you shouldn't really require its services anyway.

with Pete Saunders
Hidden 22/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
thomasadixon 22/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Pretty terrifying!

with helen
AlexRenshaw 19/Jul/11 Lead
with Ted Lister
Tom Brierley Gore 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

My first E3, I really struggled up the crux on the second pitch, couldn't find much protection other than the pegs so it was a real run out. Definitely a Rear-Wheel-Drive climb. Challenging climbing - scared the crap outa me... probably wouldn't recommend it as a first E3 to others. Time to buy some micronuts

karenhh 19/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/11 AltLd β
Hidden 09/Mar/11 Lead dnf
Clay C 09/Mar/11 AltLd dnf
with Ross
Ged Desforges ??/2011 -

what a bloody brilliant route. 3 stars anywhere. Pretty bold, I've definitely done outes that felt less bold that get E4.

richiebongo 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
Hidden 28/Aug/10 TR dnf
Rowansb 10/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mungo Nash
dan gibson 02/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with sam read
KRB 31/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Succumbed quite readily to a positive attitude

with Martin Bridges
tonanf 12/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with james c
Hidden 23/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Paz 23/Sep/06 2nd rpt
with AB
Pythonist 22/Apr/06 Lead dnf

Damn. Having made it to the crux, the step into the groove defeated me. There is supposedly (Avon CC guide) a peg under the overhang on the right before stepping back into the groove. Couldn't find it, but a reasonable (but not confidence inspiring) micro-nut can be placed instead, and this is at the same height as the bolt, given a good fall-out zone. First pitch is a soft (but nastily polished for the first three moves) HVS 5a.

with Alistair McKelvie
Hidden 29/Jan/06 Lead rpt
JamieAyres 29/Jan/06 TR rpt

1st pitch only - 5a

with Ben Anderson
Marcus ??/2006 -
shark 11/Jun/05 Lead O/S

Put it down as an on-sight but doing these logs subsequently discovered I led it in 1996 ! Have to admit I had a sense of deja-vu but put it down to the fear.

with Pete
Hidden 23/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/05 AltLd dog
joe_alexander ??/2005 2nd dog
with tony penning
Paz 03/Jun/04 Lead β

...and got it the next day.

with AS
Hidden 11/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Billg 14/Feb/01 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden ??/2001 -
shark 10/May/96 Lead O/S
with Sonia
chris sm 28/Feb/95 2nd O/S
with Andy Gill
NeilGriffiths 16/Oct/94 -
with Duncs
lowersharpnose 01/Jul/94 Lead O/S

A hot and sweaty evening. The first pitch (*) got my heart going - as well as the delicate moves high up on the second. * Direct up the middle of the wall to the right of the HVS flake/corner.

with Adam
GAtkins 29/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with Neil
AndySL ??/1994 AltLd O/S
with Mark
Roget 29/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 19/Jun/88 2nd
Pete Nugent 12/May/88 AltLd

Led p1. At a later date came back amnd led.

with Charlie Everett
adriandesouza ?/Jun/87 Lead O/S
bullybones ??/1987 Lead
JamieAyres ?/Jun/86 Lead rpt

bottom pitch only of course..

with Peter Rickard
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily
John Marsland 08/Sep/85 Lead

given E2 5c at the time

with Mark Cohen
JamieAyres ?/Sep/85 2nd rpt

bottom pitch only of course..

with Rob Parker
JamieAyres ?/Jul/85 2nd

found the top pitch desperate at the top of the groove and very bold

with Graham Aveyard
Hidden ?/Jun/83 Solo rpt
andy gittins ??/1983 -
redjerry ?/Apr/82 Lead
with Jim Melrose
Hidden ?/Aug/81 Lead O/S
redjerry ?/Apr/81 Lead
with Jim Melrose
leland stamper ?/Mar/81 2nd O/S
with Simon F&T
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Hidden 31/Jul/79 Lead O/S
steve L 12/Mar/78 AltLd O/S
with Tobin Sorensen, Phil Thomas
Hidden ?/Apr/69 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, andy dunn, Kenemo, Dr Caterpillar
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 14
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set