Second pitch onsight, I'd soloed the first previously. Wow, good runout! The peg comes unhelpfully late, when you've already got the good holds. I reckon the technical crux is near the bolt, but it feels harder as you get further away from it. Just a case of hold it together and keep moving up!Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Alex Winter
Bit of a brown trouser job - good lead by Nick. Hardest bit is next to the bolt, but the top groove felt pretty wobbly. Forgot harness so wore a sling nappy.
Alex Winter - 2nd O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Nick
gimmer - 2013
jcw - 2013
Good, but not quite as stunning as description suggests. A one-move wonder really, followed by a couple of steady 5a moves which you wouldn't want to fall off on. Couldn't find any microwire placements, but bolt protects crux well.
msoldn - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/12 with Thomasina
Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jul/12
Onsighted the E4 6a direct this time. A positive approach worked on this hot afternoon. Chris looked like some sort of Praying Mantis with his lanky legs all bent and doubled under him in some backwards sort of bridging move on the crux.
KRB - Lead rpt - 12/May/12 with Chris Bridges
Memorable, brilliant but extremely run out, necky climbing. Peg is pretty crap but if you've got that far you shouldn't really require its services anyway.
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/11 with Pete Saunders
I lead the far easier 1st pitch of ffoegs folly.
hms - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/11 with Tom
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/11 with helen
AlexRenshaw - Lead - 19/Jul/11 with Ted Lister
My first E3, I really struggled up the crux on the second pitch, couldn't find much protection other than the pegs so it was a real run out. Definitely a Rear-Wheel-Drive climb. Challenging climbing - scared the crap outa me... probably wouldn't recommend it as a first E3 to others. Time to buy some micronuts
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Shijing Hu
karenhh - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/11 with Tom Brierley
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/11
Hidden - AltLd β - 12/Mar/11
Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/Mar/11
Clay C - AltLd dnf - 09/Mar/11 with Ross
what a bloody brilliant route. 3 stars anywhere. Pretty bold, I've definitely done outes that felt less bold that get E4.
Ged Desforges - 2011
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/10 with Nick Smith
Hidden - TR dnf - 28/Aug/10
Rowansb - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/10 with Mungo Nash
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/08 with sam read
Succumbed quite readily to a positive attitude
KRB - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/08 with Martin Bridges
tonanf - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/07 with james c
Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/06
Paz - 2nd rpt - 23/Sep/06 with AB
Damn. Having made it to the crux, the step into the groove defeated me. There is supposedly (Avon CC guide) a peg under the overhang on the right before stepping back into the groove. Couldn't find it, but a reasonable (but not confidence inspiring) micro-nut can be placed instead, and this is at the same height as the bolt, given a good fall-out zone.
First pitch is a soft (but nastily polished for the first three moves) HVS 5a.
Pythonist - Lead dnf - 22/Apr/06 with Alistair McKelvie
Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Jan/06
1st pitch only - 5a
JamieAyres - TR rpt - 29/Jan/06 with Ben Anderson
Hidden - 2006
Put it down as an on-sight but doing these logs subsequently discovered I led it in 1996 ! Have to admit I had a sense of deja-vu but put it down to the fear.
shark - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/05 with Pete
Hidden - AltLd dog - Feb/05
joe_alexander - 2nd dog - 2005 with tony penning
...and got it the next day.
Paz - Lead β - 03/Jun/04 with AS
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/03
Billg - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/01 with Megan Beaumont
Ally Smith - 2001
shark - Lead O/S - 10/May/96 with Sonia
chris sm - 2nd O/S - 28/Feb/95 with Andy Gill
NeilGriffiths - 16/Oct/94 with Duncs
A hot and sweaty evening. The first pitch (*) got my heart going - as well as the delicate moves high up on the second.
* Direct up the middle of the wall to the right of the HVS flake/corner.
lowersharpnose - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/94 with Adam
GAtkins - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/94 with Neil
Roget - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/92 with jon
ChrisJD - 2nd - 19/Jun/88
Led p1. At a later date came back amnd led.
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 12/May/88 with Charlie Everett
John H Bull - Lead - 1987
bottom pitch only of course..
JamieAyres - Lead rpt - Jun/86 with Peter Rickard
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily
given E2 5c at the time
John Marsland - Lead - 08/Sep/85 with Mark Cohen
bottom pitch only of course..
JamieAyres - 2nd rpt - Sep/85 with Rob Parker
found the top pitch desperate at the top of the groove and very bold
JamieAyres - 2nd - Jul/85 with Graham Aveyard
Hidden - Solo rpt - Jun/83
andy gittins - 1983
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/81
leland stamper - 2nd O/S - Mar/81 with Simon F&T
Hidden - 1981
Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/79
Hidden - 2nd - Apr/69