Rockfax Description
A very polished local classic that is high in the grade, but does involve some fine climbing. Start at the corner right of the brown-stained wall.
Climb the right wall of the corner, with little gear at hand, to easier ground and good gear in the wider flakes midway up the corner. Steeper moves lead to the overhang where hard moves over it gain the tree. Move up leftwards and then finish direct past bolts. © Rockfax

M Taylor, M Waugh Apr/1966

Ticklists: Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes.

raidiun 25/Nov Lead rpt

Led clean having seconded previously. First HVS

Ollie B 31/Oct Lead O/S
with A.Rosier
Hugobristol 25/Oct Lead rpt
with Rob
raidiun 25/Oct 2nd
EC 04/Oct -
laurence_falconer 04/Oct -
PEccleston 04/Oct TR
tcn_2002 26/Sep Lead
minty1984 16/Jul TR dog

Done on the top rope due to reputation.... Lived up to it completely. Polished slippery mess now up to the over hang. Would of been a great climb 60 yrs ago!....

Scottysparks 07/Jul TR O/S
Nick Russell 30/May Lead rpt

The polish hasn't gone away since I last did it.

Alex Winter 30/May 2nd O/S

I suppose we had to do it eventually. Fierce moves over the roof.

with Nick
Lil_Pete 25/May Lead O/S

Wow what a fierce, shiny mess this thing is!

with Corin
Dino Dave 12/May Lead β
Hugobristol 12/May 2nd
with Dave
Hugobristol ?/Mar Lead RP
with Liam
jammy4536 24/Jan 2nd β
steve_gibbs 24/Jan Lead rpt
with Jamie MacLeod
Hidden ??/2015 -
thom_jenkinson 10/Dec/14 Lead

Biggest pile of wank I have ever had the misfortune to set foot on. Did not enjoy the polish, or the cold. This lethal combination led to me getting completely and utterly spanked. Crux move enjoyable enough if stiff for 5a. My (old) guide has this route as HVS 5b which I would be tempted to agree with - especially given the polish.

adawson 10/Dec/14 2nd dnf
with Ashley King, Thom Jenkinson
Hidden 16/Nov/14 Lead O/S
AJ007 16/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Stuart William ?/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Martin
mattprince 31/Oct/14 TR
with Lydia Miles
Hidden 07/Oct/14 TR
Marcin78 ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Karol
felixizzy 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Didn't think the polish was all that bad. Found simian more polished.

with Neil
Neil 27/Sep/14 2nd
sara n 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Fabulous climb with lovely powerful moves but the move up to the corner of the roof near the star freaked me out because the tiny footholds were so polished! The move to get above the roof is fun!

with Paul Wolf
Hidden 30/Jun/14 Solo dnf
shafiq lalloo 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S


tc7118 21/May/14 TR
maresia 21/May/14 TR rpt
with Claire Lawrence
bpmclimb 16/May/14 TR rpt
with Shunt
jon_ridley 15/May/14 Lead O/S
Ezra_Byrne ?/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
mallardhealhook 01/Apr/14 2nd
with Evhall
Cheese Monkey 27/Mar/14 TR O/S
with Shunt
danmullett 10/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/14 Lead β
pheotleyr 03/Feb/14 Lead β

Still fun. Polished but well-protected throughout.

with Mike
Mayaculpa 03/Feb/14 2nd dnf

Had a bit of a mare on the start (polish) and failed on the overhang

with Peter
Echna 02/Feb/14 2nd O/S
with Andy
AndyF 02/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Start was really polished - took a fall low down and decked out! Ripped the gear and landed on the floor... Forced myself back on and did it clean - placed about 20 bits of gear the rest of the way up and was really paranoid...... But overall was a great climb.

with Echna
Hidden ??/2014 2nd
steve_gibbs 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
George Frisby 30/Nov/13 2nd dog
bpmclimb 31/Oct/13 Lead rpt
with Clare
Hidden 19/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Matt_L_Robinson 19/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Very polished until the overhang. Nice moves, memorable!

Footiemadhannah 02/Sep/13 TR

Top roped due to it's renound polished holds. Nice climb, and the roof was a little scary

Hidden 02/Sep/13 TR
gobbledigook 30/Jun/13 TR O/S

so polished struggled to get up the start, kinda made my way to the right and then back left onto the line just below the roof, which was without doubt the best part!

tobydunford 21/May/13 2nd β
with Harry Martin
alastairbegley 16/May/13 Lead O/S
with Nick Eaton
skippington 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 30/Apr/13 TR rpt
pheotleyr 18/Mar/13 TR rpt
with Mirco Traxion
Quarryboy 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Been putting this off for quite some time due to its reputation for being polished to hell, but after not climbing properly outside for a few months and not quite feeling ready to jump on any E2s it seemed like the logical option. Spent ages on it carefully progressing up each of the sections after much consideration and warming of hands, the balancey start, the slightly pumpy flake middle and then finally that really tough roof at the end. Overall I think the polished has tarnished its reputation a little. So long as you take your time and are careful the climbing itself is actually pretty good and steady.

JamesRich 02/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Spent a good 5 minutes under the roof trying to warm my hands up

jcw ??/2013 -
tomwheeler 09/Dec/12 Lead
Kemics 18/Nov/12 2nd O/S

Felt pretty hard and (pointless to say) polished. Was probably a nice climb way back in the day.

Hidden ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Deary65 21/Aug/12 TR dog
Hidden 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Anthony Dixon 13/Aug/12 Lead
rachelvlc 10/Aug/12 TR
James S 23/Jul/12 2nd O/S

unbelievably polished

with dan
pheotleyr 16/May/12 TR β
with Jana
Frostie 19/Feb/12 Lead
with Martin Clarke
mark schramm 14/Feb/12 Lead rpt
with Lyndsay
Lyndsay Superclimber 14/Feb/12 2nd dog
with Mark S
Dean177 ?/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Lottie Faulkner
squicky 27/Dec/11 TR O/S
with rg1976
jon_ridley 22/Dec/11 Lead O/S
manwithacam 04/Dec/11 Lead

Mr Sheen's been on this route

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 04/Dec/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Katherine Ross 12/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Really strenuous but a good route. Would have been even better without the polish - it's just as bad as the easier routes on Sea Walls!

cbeard 12/Oct/11 Lead O/S
sweenyt 09/Oct/11 TR O/S
with UBMC
Nick Russell 29/Sep/11 TR O/S

Polish is a killer at the start. Fun move over the crux (it's pretty obvious where this is!)

Stanley 15/Sep/11 -

A little spoilt by the lethal polish at the start, roof was a little scary but the quality of rock was much better. Good fun and worthwhile.

BeccaSnowden 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Much better after the start, great move through the roof.

with Tom
thomasadixon 25/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Surprisingly good.

with Becca
Tom Brierley Gore 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Nice climb, it probably is a bit harder than a HVS due to polish... but it's not the worst polished climb i've seen in the gorge. Provided you take care and don't throw your weight around the polish can be dealt with. The overhang is good.

karenhh 01/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 26/May/11 Lead
PaulWatson 26/May/11 2nd dnf

This was probably a very nice climb once, now somehow polished to oblivion so it was a good lead by Jeremy. made it as far as the roof, but ran out of energy.

with Jeremy, Rosy
Stanners 02/May/11 TR dog

too paranoid about using shunt on overhang, kept taking a hand off to bring it up to my waist. Got tired and wanted to rest. genuinely felt I could have done it leading without the nuisance or temptation of shunt. less said about polish the better...

with Shunt
suffolknick 08/Apr/11 2nd dog

Polish as bad as it gets in the lower section, didnt get my foot high enough on the crux so it popped as i was rocking over ;/

with clams
clams ?/Apr/11 Lead
with NB
AlexRenshaw 06/Mar/11 2nd
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Hidden 01/Feb/11 2nd β
bpmclimb 01/Feb/11 Lead rpt
with Helen S
31770 ??/2011 -
Richard James Edmunds 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Jex, Marcus Wood
Kingsjester 09/Aug/10 2nd dog

Fell off at the start due to the route being very polished.

simeclimb68 09/Aug/10 Lead rpt

Too slipery to be 5a anymore

Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 22/Jul/10 Lead
Cornish Cream 10/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Rowansb 10/Jun/10 Lead dog

epic polish, foot popped off one of the worse for wear footholds

with Mungo Nash
Dan0Me 19/May/10 Lead
andy dunn 18/May/10 Lead O/S

sandbagged by J... I can see how the moves on the route made it popular, and hence the heavy traffic is perhaps justified. But in it's current state of polish was more of an intresting challenge than an enjoyable route. I'm afraid I can't really recommend this route to anyone

with J
gingergeorge 20/Apr/10 Lead dog

Polished as most the routes of that grade are in avon shame as would have been more enjoyable was pummpy due to not trusting my feet

with rcp
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
skittles 29/Mar/10 TR O/S

Was a very wet day, would love to go back and lead the route, nice moves all the way up.

keithpeck 28/Mar/10 Lead RP

Polish! Tried it a few months ago and backed off under the overhang/roof. Good to get it done.

Braintax ?/Mar/10 TR
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
scorpia97 ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Paul, Caspian
richiebongo ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
Slick ??/2010 -
Hidden 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S
richardadventurecafe 25/Oct/09 Lead dnf

ok to the crux at the roof, then bottled it as I Was about to move up and over... will need to put this one to bed another day... not easy once over the roof...

with Neil Sperrings
Hidden 25/Oct/09 TR
ruaidh 31/Aug/09 Lead β

The bottom of this climb is lethal. Someone needs to go over the polished bits with a industrial scourer.

with Josie
ruaidh 16/Aug/09 Lead RP

Third ascent, this time it went nicely. Polished bits on the first half responded to some careful footwork.

with Ben
Hidden 07/Aug/09 TR dog
Jonathan Storey 23/Jul/09 2nd dnf

Help end of day climb, started to rain. Rocks very slippery and covered in dirt and fine powder. Ended up looking more like casper than jasper. gave up when I was still in sight of ground :-(

with Jamie
ruaidh 10/Jun/09 Lead dog

One (small) rest at the bottom ;) Pull over the over hang not actually the difficult bit... just get your right foot high and rock over. Good edge up and right once your chest comes above the little ledge.

Hidden 01/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Monk 04/May/09 Lead rpt
with PerrinT
PerrinT 04/May/09 2nd
with Monkey
dswansonlow 01/Apr/09 AltLd O/S


jacobjlloyd 30/Mar/09 AltLd β

polish!! Lovely mantle move over the roof.

with Dougie
dswansonlow 30/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Feb/09 TR
Kenemo ??/2009 -
sdkoutdoor 09/Aug/08 2nd
with That Guy!
Hidden 03/Apr/08 TR dog
martinazando ?/Apr/08 TR
with Paul Lydin
Hidden 25/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Al Franks 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Felicia Line
Alasdair88 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Flic
bpmclimb 02/Feb/08 Lead O/S

We think this is a good, varied climb and worth a star or two despite the polish. No sign of the peg but you can get by without.

with Clare
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/07 TR O/S
Lev 07/Oct/07 TR
CarolineH 19/Sep/07 2nd dog
with Mark
Monk 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Matt H
gripped01 ?/Sep/07 2nd
with Jim Jarvis
Hidden 19/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Mowglee 19/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Barrows
chiverstom 20/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Jonny
Hidden 01/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Circus 12/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Tim Wood
Bristoldave 11/Jan/07 Lead β
with Joe
Hidden ??/2007 TR
Matt Tranter ??/2007 -
maresia 12/Nov/06 2nd O/S
with Rob Scheichl
Hidden 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/06 TR O/S
pattisonr ?/Jun/06 -
with Matt
Paz 24/Mar/06 Lead rpt

Escaped from a lead attempts on the roof - "`5c' Roof"?

with TS2
Jez 19/Feb/06 Lead O/S

Nice climb good polish but still enjoyable!

with Alex
Oddjob 19/Feb/06 2nd O/S

Absolutely laid one on the overhang due to numb fingers. It went though.

with Jez
Jethro ?/Jan/06 Lead
with Tom Bouquet
beardy mike ??/2006 2nd
with Frank Medina
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Marcus ??/2006 -
JamesColeman ??/2006 TR rpt

Top roped many times. Very tough.

with Jon, Alan
jon thompson27 ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with greg leach
RedFox ??/2005 TR O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead RP
Fat Tim 03/Oct/04 Lead β
Hidden ?/Oct/04 Lead dnf
Andrew Barker ?/May/04 2nd O/S
with Dave Peachey
Hidden ?/Oct/03 TR O/S
DavidR 13/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Alex
Boxy 08/Jun/03 Lead rpt
with Mick
Lev 19/Mar/03 Lead rpt
with Kev Herring
Paz ??/2003 Lead O/S

If you really must do this HVS then don't complain about it afterwards.

with SN
Lev 27/Oct/01 TR O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/01 Lead O/S
gimmer ??/2001 -
Hidden ?/Nov/00 2nd
kevp 11/Mar/00 Lead O/S
with Tim Legge
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead dog
Roget 09/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with jon
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/98 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
DavidR 31/May/97 Lead O/S
with John Marston and Nathan Rippin
DavidR 18/May/97 2nd O/S
with John Marston
pezzerrr ??/1997 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
colin milton 30/Jul/94 Lead
with eric milton
Didymus 01/May/94 Lead O/S
with Marcus
Didymus 28/Feb/94 TR RP
with Sue
mikej 11/Mar/93 2nd
with Nick Salmon
chris sm 28/Feb/93 TR O/S
with Martin Sime
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Marti999 13/Nov/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/92 Lead O/S
Budge ?/May/92 Lead O/S
with Brian Ottewell
Cowflinger ?/Feb/92 Lead
with Lewis
Tim M ??/1992 Lead O/S
AndySL ??/1992 Lead β
Hidden ?/Dec/91 TR
Hidden 05/Oct/91 2nd
Phil Ingle 31/May/90 Lead
with Ellis Ash
Phil Ingle 25/Apr/90 Lead
Mal Grey ??/1990 Lead O/S
strapless ??/1990 Lead
with Ju
Hidden 15/Oct/89 TR
surfbish ?/Mar/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Hidden 19/Jun/88 Lead
bullybones ??/1987 Lead
Budge ??/1986 TR O/S

A Polished Horror

mark-abz 10/Nov/85 Lead
with Bill P
Pete Nugent 27/Oct/85 2nd

HVS 5a at the time

with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)
Chris the Tall ?/Oct/85 TR
JamieAyres ?/Aug/84 TR dog
with Phil Windall
andy gittins ??/1983 -
Hidden ?/Sep/82 Solo rpt
babymoac 13/Feb/82 2nd
with Dave Salter
John Marsland ??/1982 Lead
with Dave Hewitson
AlanLittle ??/1982 -
leland stamper ??/1982 Lead O/S
with pete crutchley
Nic Robinson 31/Aug/81 Lead O/S
with Richard Dickenson
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ?/Feb/80 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/79 Lead rpt
charlesmfrench ??/1979 2nd O/S
with Martin Roberts
Mark Kemball 11/Apr/76 Lead
with Bill Wheeler
Nigel Bond 05/May/74 AltLd
with Pete Dainty
Hidden ??/1973 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1972 Lead
Hidden ??/1966 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
JoeE, JollyTom, crimponite123
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 38
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set