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Jasper HVS 5a

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[Beth abseiling down Jasper, 3 kb]A very polished local classic that is high in the grade, but does involve some fine climbing. Start at the corner right of the brown-stained wall. 24m. Climb the right wall of the corner, with little gear at hand, to easier ground and good gear in the wider flakes midway up the corner. Steeper moves lead to the overhang where hard moves over it gain the tree. Move up leftwards and then finish direct past bolts. © ROCKFAX
M Taylor, M Waugh Apr/1966

Ticklists: Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes.

Photo: Beth abseiling down Jasper © Stanley
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 206 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - Solo dnf - 30/Jun/14

Awesome!
shafiq lalloo - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14

tc7118 - TR - 21/May/14

maresia - TR rpt - 21/May/14 with Claire Lawrence

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 16/May/14 with Shunt

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 15/May/14 with Will Pope, Jonny Forster

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/14

mallardhealhook - 2nd - 01/Apr/14 with Evhall

Cheese Monkey - TR O/S - 27/Mar/14 with Shunt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14

Hidden - Lead β - 16/Feb/14

Still fun. Polished but well-protected throughout.
pheotleyr - Lead β - 03/Feb/14 with Mike

Had a bit of a mare on the start (polish) and failed on the overhang
Mayaculpa - 2nd dnf - 03/Feb/14 with Peter

Echna - 2nd O/S - 02/Feb/14 with Andy

Start was really polished - took a fall low down and decked out! Ripped the gear and landed on the floor... Forced myself back on and did it clean - placed about 20 bits of gear the rest of the way up and was really paranoid...... But overall was a great climb.
AndyF - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/14 with Echna

Hidden - 2nd - 2014

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13 with George Frisby

George Frisby - 2nd dog - 30/Nov/13 with Steve Gibbs

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 31/Oct/13 with Clare

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/13

Very polished until the overhang. Nice moves, memorable!
Matt_L_Robinson - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/13

Top roped due to it's renound polished holds. Nice climb, and the roof was a little scary
Footiemadhannah - TR - 02/Sep/13 with Leon Troake

Hidden - TR - 02/Sep/13

so polished struggled to get up the start, kinda made my way to the right and then back left onto the line just below the roof, which was without doubt the best part!
gobbledigook - TR O/S - 30/Jun/13

tobydunford - 2nd β - 21/May/13 with Harry Martin

alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 16/May/13 with Nick Eaton

skippington - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/Apr/13

Hidden - TR rpt - 30/Apr/13

pheotleyr - TR rpt - 18/Mar/13 with Mirco Traxion

Been putting this off for quite some time due to its reputation for being polished to hell, but after not climbing properly outside for a few months and not quite feeling ready to jump on any E2s it seemed like the logical option. Spent ages on it carefully progressing up each of the sections after much consideration and warming of hands, the balancey start, the slightly pumpy flake middle and then finally that really tough roof at the end. Overall I think the polished has tarnished its reputation a little. So long as you take your time and are careful the climbing itself is actually pretty good and steady.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with James Rich, Rob Stanfield

Spent a good 5 minutes under the roof trying to warm my hands up
JamesRich - 2nd O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Rob stanfield, Jack Bradbrook

jcw - 2013

tomwheeler - Lead - 09/Dec/12 with bencoope

Felt pretty hard and (pointless to say) polished. Was probably a nice climb way back in the day.
Kemics - 2nd O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Enduro Dan

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/12

Deary65 - TR dog - 21/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/12

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 13/Aug/12

rachelvlc - TR - 10/Aug/12

unbelievably polished
James S - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/12 with dan

pheotleyr - TR β - 16/May/12 with Jana

Hidden - Lead - 19/Feb/12

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 14/Feb/12 with Lyndsay

Lyndsay Superclimber - 2nd dog - 14/Feb/12 with Mark S

Dean177 - Lead O/S - Jan/12 with Lottie Faulkner

squicky - TR O/S - 27/Dec/11 with rg1976

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 22/Dec/11 with Geoff Pyatt

Mr Sheen's been on this route
manwithacam - Lead - 04/Dec/11 with Joris

Joris.Roulleau - 2nd O/S - 04/Dec/11 with Dan Metcalfe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/11

Really strenuous but a good route. Would have been even better without the polish - it's just as bad as the easier routes on Sea Walls!
Katherine Ross - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/11 with Charlie Beard

cbeard - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/11 with Katherine Ross

sweenyt - TR O/S - 09/Oct/11 with UBMC

Polish is a killer at the start. Fun move over the crux (it's pretty obvious where this is!)
Nick Russell - TR O/S - 29/Sep/11

A little spoilt by the lethal polish at the start, roof was a little scary but the quality of rock was much better. Good fun and worthwhile.
Stanley - 15/Sep/11

Much better after the start, great move through the roof.
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11 with Tom

Surprisingly good.
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/11 with Becca

Nice climb, it probably is a bit harder than a HVS due to polish... but it's not the worst polished climb i've seen in the gorge. Provided you take care and don't throw your weight around the polish can be dealt with. The overhang is good.
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/11 with Shijing Hu

karenhh - 2nd - 01/Jul/11 with Tom Brierley

Hidden - Lead - 26/May/11

This was probably a very nice climb once, now somehow polished to oblivion so it was a good lead by Jeremy. made it as far as the roof, but ran out of energy.
PaulWatson - 2nd dnf - 26/May/11 with Jeremy, Rosy

too paranoid about using shunt on overhang, kept taking a hand off to bring it up to my waist. Got tired and wanted to rest. genuinely felt I could have done it leading without the nuisance or temptation of shunt. less said about polish the better...
Stanners - TR dog - 02/May/11 with Shunt

Polish as bad as it gets in the lower section, didnt get my foot high enough on the crux so it popped as i was rocking over ;/
suffolknick - 2nd dog - 08/Apr/11 with clams

clams - Lead - Apr/11 with NB

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 06/Mar/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

very polished and with an occasional patch of dampness which made for an exciting outing.
hms - 2nd β - 01/Feb/11 with Brian

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 01/Feb/11 with Helen S

31770 - 2011

Richard James Edmunds - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Chris Jex, Marcus Wood

Fell off at the start due to the route being very polished.
Kingsjester - 2nd dog - 09/Aug/10 with Simon Palmer

Too slipery to be 5a anymore
simeclimb68 - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/10 with Adele Greenway

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jul/10

Cornish Cream - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/10

epic polish, foot popped off one of the worse for wear footholds
Rowansb - Lead dog - 10/Jun/10 with Mungo Nash

Dan0Me - Lead - 19/May/10

sandbagged by J... I can see how the moves on the route made it popular, and hence the heavy traffic is perhaps justified. But in it's current state of polish was more of an intresting challenge than an enjoyable route. I'm afraid I can't really recommend this route to anyone
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 18/May/10 with J

Polished as most the routes of that grade are in avon shame as would have been more enjoyable was pummpy due to not trusting my feet
gingergeorge - Lead dog - 20/Apr/10 with rcp

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10

Was a very wet day, would love to go back and lead the route, nice moves all the way up.
skittles - TR O/S - 29/Mar/10

Polish! Tried it a few months ago and backed off under the overhang/roof. Good to get it done.
keithpeck - Lead RP - 28/Mar/10

Braintax - TR - Mar/10

Phil PBC - 2010

scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 2010 with Paul, Caspian

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2010 with Nick Smith

Slick - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/09

ok to the crux at the roof, then bottled it as I Was about to move up and over... will need to put this one to bed another day... not easy once over the roof...
richardadventurecafe - Lead dnf - 25/Oct/09 with Neil Sperrings

Hidden - TR - 25/Oct/09

The bottom of this climb is lethal. Someone needs to go over the polished bits with a industrial scourer.
ruaidh - Lead β - 31/Aug/09 with Josie

Third ascent, this time it went nicely. Polished bits on the first half responded to some careful footwork.
ruaidh - Lead RP - 16/Aug/09 with Ben

Hidden - TR dog - 07/Aug/09

Help end of day climb, started to rain. Rocks very slippery and covered in dirt and fine powder. Ended up looking more like casper than jasper. gave up when I was still in sight of ground :-(
Jonathan Storey - 2nd dnf - 23/Jul/09 with Jamie

One (small) rest at the bottom ;) Pull over the over hang not actually the difficult bit... just get your right foot high and rock over. Good edge up and right once your chest comes above the little ledge.
ruaidh - Lead dog - 10/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/09

Monk - Lead rpt - 04/May/09 with PerrinT

PerrinT - 2nd - 04/May/09 with Monkey

POLISH!!!!!!
dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/09 with jacob loyd

polish!! Lovely mantle move over the roof.
jacobjlloyd - AltLd β - 30/Mar/09 with Dougie

Hidden - TR - 21/Feb/09

Kenemo - 2009

sdkoutdoor - 2nd - 09/Aug/08 with That Guy!

Hidden - TR dog - 03/Apr/08

martinazando - TR - Apr/08 with Paul Lydin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/08

Al Franks - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Felicia Line

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Flic

We think this is a good, varied climb and worth a star or two despite the polish. No sign of the peg but you can get by without.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/08 with Clare

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - TR O/S - 07/Oct/07

Lev - TR - 07/Oct/07 with Emma Ross

CarolineH - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/07 with Mark

Monk - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Matt H

gripped01 - 2nd - Sep/07 with Jim Jarvis

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/07

Mowglee - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/07 with Barrows

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/07 with Jonny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/07

Circus - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/07 with Tim Wood

Bristoldave - Lead β - 11/Jan/07 with Joe

Hidden - TR - 2007

Matt Tranter - 2007

maresia - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/06 with Rob Scheichl

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/06

Hidden - TR O/S - 07/Oct/06

pattisonr - Jun/06 with Matt

Escaped from a lead attempts on the roof - "`5c' Roof"?
Paz - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/06 with TS2

Nice climb good polish but still enjoyable!
Jez - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/06 with Alex

Absolutely laid one on the overhang due to numb fingers. It went though.
Oddjob - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/06 with Jez

Jethro - Lead - Jan/06 with Tom Bouquet

mike kann - 2nd - 2006 with Frank Medina

John Lisle - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Top roped many times. Very tough.
JamesColeman - TR rpt - 2006 with Jon, Alan

jon thompson27 - Lead O/S - May/05 with greg leach

RedFox - TR O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead RP - 2005

Fat Tim - Lead β - 03/Oct/04 with Nick Ingram

Hidden - Lead dnf - Oct/04

Andrew Barker - 2nd O/S - May/04 with Dave Peachey

Hidden - TR O/S - Oct/03

DavidR - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/03 with Alex

Boxy - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/03 with Mick

Lev - Lead rpt - 19/Mar/03 with Kev Herring

If you really must do this HVS then don't complain about it afterwards.
Paz - Lead O/S - 2003 with SN

Lev - TR O/S - 27/Oct/01

gimmer - 2001

Hidden - 2nd - Nov/00

kevp - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/00 with Tim Legge

Hidden - 2000

Ally Smith - 2000

Hidden - Lead dog - 2000

Roget - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/98 with jon

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1998

DavidR - Lead O/S - 31/May/97 with John Marston and Nathan Rippin

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 18/May/97 with John Marston

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 1997

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

colin milton - Lead - 30/Jul/94 with eric milton

Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 01/May/94 with Marcus

Jon Didymus - TR RP - 28/Feb/94 with Sue, Ben

mikej - 2nd - 11/Mar/93 with Nick Salmon

chris sm - TR O/S - 28/Feb/93 with Martin Sime

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/92

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/92

Budge - Lead O/S - May/92 with Brian Ottewell

Cowflinger - Lead - Feb/92 with Lewis

Tim M - Lead O/S - 1992

AndySL - Lead β - 1992

ChrisJD - TR - Dec/91

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Oct/91

Hidden - Lead - 31/May/90

Hidden - Lead - 25/Apr/90

Mal Grey - Lead O/S - 1990

strapless - Lead - 1990 with Ju

ChrisJD - TR - 15/Oct/89

surfbish - Lead O/S - Mar/89

Hidden - Lead - 1989

ChrisJD - Lead - 19/Jun/88

bullybones - Lead - 1987

A Polished Horror
Budge - TR O/S - 1986

mark-abz - Lead - 10/Nov/85 with Bill P

HVS 5a at the time
Pete Nugent - 2nd - 27/Oct/85 with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)

Chris the Tall - TR - Oct/85

JamieAyres - TR dog - Aug/84 with Phil Windall

andy gittins - 1983

Hidden - Solo rpt - Sep/82

babymoac - 2nd - 13/Feb/82 with Dave Salter

John Marsland - Lead - 1982 with Dave Hewitson

AlanLittle - 1982

leland stamper - Lead O/S - 1982 with pete crutchley

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/81 with Richard Dickenson

Hidden - 1981

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/80

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/79

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 1979 with Martin Roberts

Mark Kemball - Lead - 11/Apr/76 with Bill Wheeler

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 05/May/74 with Pete Dainty

Steve Woollard - Lead O/S - 1973

Hidden - Lead - 1972

Hidden - AltLd - 1966

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
thom_jenkinson, JollyTom, crimponite123

Voting
Total votes cast 99
hard E10 of 35
E10 of 35
easy E11 of 35
hard HVS25 of 35
HVS9 of 35
easy HVS0 of 35
hard VS0 of 35
VS0 of 35
easy VS0 of 35
hard 5b0 of 36
5b1 of 36
easy 5b23 of 36
hard 5a10 of 36
5a2 of 36
easy 5a0 of 36
hard 4c0 of 36
4c0 of 36
easy 4c0 of 36
3 Stars0 of 28
2 Stars1 of 28
1 Star21 of 28
0 Stars3 of 28
Bag of .....3 of 28
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 206 (1.0%)
Lead105 of 206 (51.0%)
Followed40 of 206 (19.4%)
Toproped38 of 206 (18.4%)
Alt Leads5 of 206 (2.4%)
Unknown16 of 206 (7.8%)

'Climbed'70 of 206 (34.0%)
clean O/S86 of 206 (41.7%)
clean β10 of 206 (4.9%)
clean rpt15 of 206 (7.3%)
clean RP4 of 206 (1.9%)
dogged14 of 206 (6.8%)
dnf7 of 206 (3.4%)