Done on the top rope due to reputation.... Lived up to it completely. Polished slippery mess now up to the over hang. Would of been a great climb 60 yrs ago!....
minty1984 - TR dog - 16/Jul/15 with Keir Davidson
Scottysparks - TR O/S - 07/Jul/15
The polish hasn't gone away since I last did it.
Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 30/May/15 with Alex Winter
I suppose we had to do it eventually. Fierce moves over the roof.
Alex Winter - 2nd O/S - 30/May/15 with Nick
Wow what a fierce, shiny mess this thing is!
Lil_Pete - Lead O/S - 25/May/15 with Corin
Dino Dave - Lead β - 12/May/15 with Hugo UBMC
Hidden - Lead RP - Mar/15
jammy4536 - 2nd β - 24/Jan/15 with steve_gibbs
steve_gibbs - Lead rpt - 24/Jan/15 with Jamie MacLeod
Biggest pile of wank I have ever had the misfortune to set foot on. Did not enjoy the polish, or the cold. This lethal combination led to me getting completely and utterly spanked. Crux move enjoyable enough if stiff for 5a. My (old) guide has this route as HVS 5b which I would be tempted to agree with - especially given the polish.
thom_jenkinson - Lead - 10/Dec/14
Couldn't finish after struggling to get the move over the overhang and having to give up due to lack of light.
adawson - 2nd dnf - 10/Dec/14 with Ashley King, Thom Jenkinson
Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/14
Stuart William - Lead O/S - Nov/14 with Martin
mattprince - TR - 31/Oct/14 with Lydia Miles
Hidden - TR - 07/Oct/14
Marcin78 - Lead O/S - Oct/14 with Karol
Didn't think the polish was all that bad. Found simian more polished.
felixizzy - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Neil
Neil - 2nd - 27/Sep/14
Fabulous climb with lovely powerful moves but the move up to the corner of the roof near the star freaked me out because the tiny footholds were so polished! The move to get above the roof is fun!
sara n - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/14 with Paul Wolf
Hidden - Solo dnf - 30/Jun/14
shafiq lalloo - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14
tc7118 - TR - 21/May/14
maresia - TR rpt - 21/May/14 with Claire Lawrence
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 16/May/14 with Shunt
jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 15/May/14 with Will Pope, Jonny Forster
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/14
mallardhealhook - 2nd - 01/Apr/14 with Evhall
Cheese Monkey - TR O/S - 27/Mar/14 with Shunt
danmullett - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/14
Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14
Hidden - Lead β - 16/Feb/14
Still fun. Polished but well-protected throughout.
pheotleyr - Lead β - 03/Feb/14 with Mike
Had a bit of a mare on the start (polish)
and failed on the overhang
Mayaculpa - 2nd dnf - 03/Feb/14 with Peter
Echna - 2nd O/S - 02/Feb/14 with Andy
Start was really polished - took a fall low down and decked out! Ripped the gear and landed on the floor... Forced myself back on and did it clean - placed about 20 bits of gear the rest of the way up and was really paranoid...... But overall was a great climb.
AndyF - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/14 with Echna
Hidden - 2nd - 2014
steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13 with George Frisby
George Frisby - 2nd dog - 30/Nov/13 with Steve Gibbs
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 31/Oct/13 with Clare
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/13
Very polished until the overhang. Nice moves, memorable!
Matt_L_Robinson - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/13
Top roped due to it's renound polished holds. Nice climb, and the roof was a little scary
Footiemadhannah - TR - 02/Sep/13 with Leon Troake
Hidden - TR - 02/Sep/13
so polished struggled to get up the start, kinda made my way to the right and then back left onto the line just below the roof, which was without doubt the best part!
gobbledigook - TR O/S - 30/Jun/13
tobydunford - 2nd β - 21/May/13 with Harry Martin
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 16/May/13 with Nick Eaton
skippington - Lead O/S - 05/May/13
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/13
Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/Apr/13
Hidden - TR rpt - 30/Apr/13
pheotleyr - TR rpt - 18/Mar/13 with Mirco Traxion
Been putting this off for quite some time due to its reputation for being polished to hell, but after not climbing properly outside for a few months and not quite feeling ready to jump on any E2s it seemed like the logical option. Spent ages on it carefully progressing up each of the sections after much consideration and warming of hands, the balancey start, the slightly pumpy flake middle and then finally that really tough roof at the end.
Overall I think the polished has tarnished its reputation a little. So long as you take your time and are careful the climbing itself is actually pretty good and steady.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with James Rich, Rob Stanfield
Spent a good 5 minutes under the roof trying to warm my hands up
JamesRich - 2nd O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Rob stanfield, Jack Bradbrook
jcw - 2013
tomwheeler - Lead - 09/Dec/12 with bencoope
Felt pretty hard and (pointless to say) polished. Was probably a nice climb way back in the day.
Kemics - 2nd O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Enduro Dan
Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/12
Deary65 - TR dog - 21/Aug/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/12
Anthony Dixon - Lead - 13/Aug/12
rachelvlc - TR - 10/Aug/12
James S - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/12 with dan
pheotleyr - TR β - 16/May/12 with Jana
Frostie - Lead - 19/Feb/12 with Martin Clarke
mark schramm - Lead rpt - 14/Feb/12 with Lyndsay
Lyndsay Superclimber - 2nd dog - 14/Feb/12 with Mark S
Dean177 - Lead O/S - Jan/12 with Lottie Faulkner
squicky - TR O/S - 27/Dec/11 with rg1976
jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 22/Dec/11 with Geoff Pyatt
Mr Sheen's been on this route
manwithacam - Lead - 04/Dec/11 with Joris
Joris.Roulleau - 2nd O/S - 04/Dec/11 with Dan Metcalfe
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/11
Really strenuous but a good route. Would have been even better without the polish - it's just as bad as the easier routes on Sea Walls!
Katherine Ross - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/11 with Charlie Beard
cbeard - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/11 with Katherine Ross
sweenyt - TR O/S - 09/Oct/11 with UBMC
Polish is a killer at the start. Fun move over the crux (it's pretty obvious where this is!)
Nick Russell - TR O/S - 29/Sep/11
A little spoilt by the lethal polish at the start, roof was a little scary but the quality of rock was much better. Good fun and worthwhile.
Stanley - 15/Sep/11
Much better after the start, great move through the roof.
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11 with Tom
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/11 with Becca
Nice climb, it probably is a bit harder than a HVS due to polish... but it's not the worst polished climb i've seen in the gorge. Provided you take care and don't throw your weight around the polish can be dealt with. The overhang is good.
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/11 with Shijing Hu
karenhh - 2nd - 01/Jul/11 with Tom Brierley
Hidden - Lead - 26/May/11
This was probably a very nice climb once, now somehow polished to oblivion so it was a good lead by Jeremy. made it as far as the roof, but ran out of energy.
PaulWatson - 2nd dnf - 26/May/11 with Jeremy, Rosy
too paranoid about using shunt on overhang, kept taking a hand off to bring it up to my waist. Got tired and wanted to rest. genuinely felt I could have done it leading without the nuisance or temptation of shunt. less said about polish the better...
Stanners - TR dog - 02/May/11 with Shunt
Polish as bad as it gets in the lower section, didnt get my foot high enough on the crux so it popped as i was rocking over ;/
suffolknick - 2nd dog - 08/Apr/11 with clams
clams - Lead - Apr/11 with NB
AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 06/Mar/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Hidden - 2nd β - 01/Feb/11
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 01/Feb/11 with Helen S
31770 - 2011
Richard James Edmunds - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Chris Jex, Marcus Wood
Fell off at the start due to the route being very polished.
Kingsjester - 2nd dog - 09/Aug/10 with Simon Palmer
Too slipery to be 5a anymore
simeclimb68 - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/10 with Adele Greenway
Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/10
Hidden - Lead - 22/Jul/10
Cornish Cream - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/10
epic polish, foot popped off one of the worse for wear footholds
Rowansb - Lead dog - 10/Jun/10 with Mungo Nash
Dan0Me - Lead - 19/May/10
sandbagged by J... I can see how the moves on the route made it popular, and hence the heavy traffic is perhaps justified. But in it's current state of polish was more of an intresting challenge than an enjoyable route.
I'm afraid I can't really recommend this route to anyone
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 18/May/10 with J
Polished as most the routes of that grade are in avon shame as would have been more enjoyable was pummpy due to not trusting my feet
gingergeorge - Lead dog - 20/Apr/10 with rcp
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10
Was a very wet day, would love to go back and lead the route, nice moves all the way up.
skittles - TR O/S - 29/Mar/10
Polish! Tried it a few months ago and backed off under the overhang/roof. Good to get it done.
keithpeck - Lead RP - 28/Mar/10
Braintax - TR - Mar/10
Phil PBC - 2010
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 2010 with Paul, Caspian
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2010 with Nick Smith
Slick - 2010
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/09
ok to the crux at the roof, then bottled it as I Was about to move up and over... will need to put this one to bed another day... not easy once over the roof...
richardadventurecafe - Lead dnf - 25/Oct/09 with Neil Sperrings
Hidden - TR - 25/Oct/09
The bottom of this climb is lethal. Someone needs to go over the polished bits with a industrial scourer.
ruaidh - Lead β - 31/Aug/09 with Josie
Third ascent, this time it went nicely. Polished bits on the first half responded to some careful footwork.
ruaidh - Lead RP - 16/Aug/09 with Ben
Hidden - TR dog - 07/Aug/09
Help end of day climb, started to rain. Rocks very slippery and covered in dirt and fine powder. Ended up looking more like casper than jasper. gave up when I was still in sight of ground :-(
Jonathan Storey - 2nd dnf - 23/Jul/09 with Jamie
One (small) rest at the bottom ;)
Pull over the over hang not actually the difficult bit... just get your right foot high and rock over. Good edge up and right once your chest comes above the little ledge.
ruaidh - Lead dog - 10/Jun/09
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/09
Monk - Lead rpt - 04/May/09 with PerrinT
PerrinT - 2nd - 04/May/09 with Monkey
dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/09 with jacob loyd
polish!! Lovely mantle move over the roof.
jacobjlloyd - AltLd β - 30/Mar/09 with Dougie
Hidden - TR - 21/Feb/09
Kenemo - 2009
sdkoutdoor - 2nd - 09/Aug/08 with That Guy!
Hidden - TR dog - 03/Apr/08
martinazando - TR - Apr/08 with Paul Lydin
Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/08
Al Franks - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Felicia Line
Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Flic
We think this is a good, varied climb and worth a star or two despite the polish. No sign of the peg but you can get by without.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/08 with Clare
daveagriff - 2nd - 2008
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008
Hidden - TR O/S - 07/Oct/07
Lev - TR - 07/Oct/07 with Emma Ross
CarolineH - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/07 with Mark
Monk - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Matt H
gripped01 - 2nd - Sep/07 with Jim Jarvis
Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/07
Mowglee - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/07 with Barrows
chiverstom - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/07 with Jonny
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/07
Circus - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/07 with Tim Wood
Bristoldave - Lead β - 11/Jan/07 with Joe
Hidden - TR - 2007
Matt Tranter - 2007
maresia - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/06 with Rob Scheichl
Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/06
Hidden - TR O/S - 07/Oct/06
pattisonr - Jun/06 with Matt
Escaped from a lead attempts on the roof - "`5c' Roof"?
Paz - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/06 with TS2
Nice climb good polish but still enjoyable!
Jez - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/06 with Alex
Absolutely laid one on the overhang due to numb fingers. It went though.
Oddjob - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/06 with Jez
Jethro - Lead - Jan/06 with Tom Bouquet
beardy mike - 2nd - 2006 with Frank Medina
John Lisle - 2006
Marcus - 2006
Top roped many times. Very tough.
JamesColeman - TR rpt - 2006 with Jon, Alan
jon thompson27 - Lead O/S - May/05 with greg leach
RedFox - TR O/S - 2005
Hidden - Lead RP - 2005
Fat Tim - Lead β - 03/Oct/04 with Nick Ingram
Hidden - Lead dnf - Oct/04
Andrew Barker - 2nd O/S - May/04 with Dave Peachey
Hidden - TR O/S - Oct/03
DavidR - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/03 with Alex
Boxy - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/03 with Mick
Lev - Lead rpt - 19/Mar/03 with Kev Herring
If you really must do this HVS then don't complain about it afterwards.
Paz - Lead O/S - 2003 with SN
Lev - TR O/S - 27/Oct/01
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/01
gimmer - 2001
Hidden - 2nd - Nov/00
kevp - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/00 with Tim Legge
Hidden - 2000
Hidden - 2000
Hidden - Lead dog - 2000
Roget - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/98 with jon
lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/98
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1998
DavidR - Lead O/S - 31/May/97 with John Marston and Nathan Rippin
DavidR - 2nd O/S - 18/May/97 with John Marston
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 1997
lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95
colin milton - Lead - 30/Jul/94 with eric milton
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 01/May/94 with Marcus
Jon Didymus - TR RP - 28/Feb/94 with Sue, Ben
mikej - 2nd - 11/Mar/93 with Nick Salmon
chris sm - TR O/S - 28/Feb/93 with Martin Sime
Hidden - Lead - 1993
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/92
Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/92
Budge - Lead O/S - May/92 with Brian Ottewell
Cowflinger - Lead - Feb/92 with Lewis
Tim M - Lead O/S - 1992
AndySL - Lead β - 1992
ChrisJD - TR - Dec/91
Hidden - 2nd - 05/Oct/91
Hidden - Lead - 31/May/90
Hidden - Lead - 25/Apr/90
Mal Grey - Lead O/S - 1990
strapless - Lead - 1990 with Ju
ChrisJD - TR - 15/Oct/89
surfbish - Lead O/S - Mar/89
Hidden - Lead - 1989
ChrisJD - Lead - 19/Jun/88
bullybones - Lead - 1987
A Polished Horror
Budge - TR O/S - 1986
mark-abz - Lead - 10/Nov/85 with Bill P
HVS 5a at the time
Pete Nugent - 2nd - 27/Oct/85 with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)
Chris the Tall - TR - Oct/85
JamieAyres - TR dog - Aug/84 with Phil Windall
andy gittins - 1983
Hidden - Solo rpt - Sep/82
babymoac - 2nd - 13/Feb/82 with Dave Salter
John Marsland - Lead - 1982 with Dave Hewitson
AlanLittle - 1982
leland stamper - Lead O/S - 1982 with pete crutchley
Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/81 with Richard Dickenson
Steve Bell - 1981
Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/80
Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/79
charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 1979 with Martin Roberts
Mark Kemball - Lead - 11/Apr/76 with Bill Wheeler
Nigel Bond - AltLd - 05/May/74 with Pete Dainty
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1973
Hidden - Lead - 1972
Hidden - AltLd - 1966