Gollum* E1 5b
[Just before taking out my belayer on Gollum, 3 kb]Climb cracks to a resting place at 4m where they end. Swing right to a hanging flake and motor up this to jugs and ledges. finish over a small overhang.

Photo: Just before taking out my belayer on Gollum © Stanley
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This climb is in 239 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Billg - 2nd rpt - 03/Oct/15 with Ollie, Bob Brewer

Way easier moves through the bulge than it looks from the ground. Easy for the rest of the route
Gabe Oliver - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/15 with Seb Boulton Oliver

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/15 with B.Gregory, B.Brewer

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/15

Good line. Found the hardest bit to be fiddling a wire into the flake.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/15 with Steve

steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/15 with Alex Winter

Luke90 - Lead dog - 20/Aug/15 with Liz

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Aug/15

Wendy - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/15 with Geoff Norton

No? Yes! - 2nd - 28/Jul/15

Tithe Technique - 2nd dog - 09/Jul/15 with Angela Paul, Charley Fell

The start took a bit of working out, not sure if I missed anything obvious but ended up doing quite technical moves to get past the crux. The conditions didn't help, was very hot - I was literally dripping wet at the rest before the flake. Not sure if I traversed a bit too low to get to the flake, I climbed directly up to it on using pockets rather than swinging onto it. Glad the holds on the flake got better and better! Brilliant route, had to fight the pump but loved it...
charley - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/15 with Ange, Kev

Sophie Nunn - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Martin

turbojames - 2nd β - 06/Jun/15 with Matt Ryan, Anne Corbett

smartydh9 - Lead O/S - 24/May/15

James Marshall - Lead O/S - 10/May/15 with sash

Hidden - 11/Apr/15

Tim_C7 - Lead - Apr/15

pheotleyr - 2nd rpt - 25/Mar/15 with Felix

felixizzy - Lead rpt - 25/Mar/15 with Peter

London Luke - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/15 with Tim O'hannaran

Hung on the rope to retrieve a stuck nut
will_benfold - 2nd dog - 09/Nov/14 with Mark Stevenson, Cameron

Made easier to second because I didn't have to remove the gear protecting the crux.
cameron_hall - 2nd O/S - 09/Nov/14 with Mark Stevenson, Will Benfold

jammy4536 - Lead rpt - 05/Oct/14

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/14

First E1. Definitely satisfied in sending this. Top roped in winter and could not feel any of the holds. Much more pleasant experience today
jammy4536 - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/14 with Richy Elliot

RichyBOYY - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/14 with Jamie

steve-grigg - Lead β - 07/Sep/14 with David Maddison

maddy92 - 2nd - 07/Sep/14 with steve-grigg

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Sep/14

Much nicer slightly higher traverse to flake this time, probably did it wrong the first time!
Cheese Monkey - 2nd rpt - 09/Aug/14 with Bradley P

Slipped off last time due to humidity, got it clean this time around.
BicycleBradley - Lead RP - 09/Aug/14 with Ben Darby

James S - 2nd - 17/Jul/14 with tom brum

Dan0Me - 2nd - 04/Jul/14 with Geoff P

Down climbed on first attempt for a rest
Ian Stirrups - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Trevor Lewis

Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Mark Lee

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/14

EmilyElouise - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14

hutchay - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Emily Palmer

mes32 - 2nd O/S - 04/May/14 with Wilki

miriamclaire - 2nd O/S - 04/May/14

Did not finish repeat. Lesson for us all there.
Hooligan - Lead dog - 21/Apr/14 with Fen

With Tom, Fen and Anne as seconds
Hooligan - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Fen

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/14 with Mark, Clare

Urgles - 2nd rpt - 09/Apr/14 with Brian

Finally. The layback is kind of easy in a way, but also kind of hard...
pheotleyr - Lead RP - 30/Mar/14 with Felix

Hold pulled and fell off on a rest
felixizzy - 2nd dog - 30/Mar/14

James S - TR rpt - 29/Mar/14 with ric, si

Oddjob - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Rosie

Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Mar/14

Thoroughly enjoyable throughout. Not as hard or scary as it looked.
Stuart William - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/14 with Pleb

Crux definitely at the start! Got boxed fiddling a wire into the flake, down climbed to the rest, then easily motored up it, simple
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Juliuus, Neil

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Mar/14

Dan0Me - 2nd - 08/Mar/14 with Tom P

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Mar/14

ACorbett82 - 2nd dog - 2014

adam6509 - Lead - 2014 with will bugden

Didn't dare to commit to the layback first time, took a rest.
pheotleyr - Lead dog - 08/Dec/13 with Mike

Good climbing. ror at the crux and the flake
Mayaculpa - 2nd dog - 08/Dec/13 with Peter

jammy4536 - 2nd O/S - 24/Nov/13

zcsharp - Lead O/S - 24/Nov/13 with Jamie Macleod

shoulders - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/13 with rich smith

Runner fell out of the base of the flake - again!
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 14/Jul/13 with Ben Crook, Greg Clarke

gregclarke - 2nd - 14/Jul/13 with Brian

Had one fall low down
richardashe - Lead dog - 13/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Jul/13

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/13 with Harry Martin

Chazwoz - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Jim Tan

kelliroberts3 - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Peter Rigby

alice_loudon - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Geoff

becoming-stranger - 2nd O/S - 22/May/13 with Geoff Pyatt

Rowan Mitchell - 2nd O/S - 18/May/13 with Andre Steele

Hidden - Lead β - 05/May/13

Luke Davies - Lead - 05/May/13

Gibbo - Lead - 02/May/13 with Sash Coombes

I found the technical crux to be low down. The hardest part about the flake was trying to arrange gear! Quality climbing
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 02/May/13 with Emily

Hidden - 2nd β - 02/May/13

super climbing up the flake! worth 2 stars for me.
James S - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with ben

Ben Russell - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/13

jon_ridley - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Ollie, Geoff Pyatt

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/13 with Geoff Pyatt

drysori - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/13

Luke Davies - 2nd - 05/Feb/13

Hidden - TR O/S - 15/Sep/12

ladymuck - TR dnf - 07/Sep/12 with Alastair Heggie

Garrouli - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Northern Pete

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 30/Aug/12

First E1 lead not on granite
arandall - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/12 with remus knowles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12

pheotleyr - 2nd β - 15/Aug/12 with Tomar

Tomar - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Peter

Scotsken - Lead - 11/Aug/12 with Jamie Evans

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12

Had to downclimb to the rest after arranging gear in the flake and got pretty pumped. Really quality moves on the bulge too and an exciting finish. Solid in the grade. I'd even say 3 stars.
Kemics - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Rick

Pumped to b*****y!
kirsten - 2nd - 21/Jul/12 with Brian

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 21/Jul/12 with Kirsten

Finally got it. Really scared pulling through the flake after the fall I took last time but the rest went smoothly. Start is definitely the hardest part.
Stanley - Lead rpt - 19/Jul/12 with Stanners

Last route of the day, completely knackered! Excessive swearing at the stuck gear and time limit on getting back to the car park made this one hard to enjoy as much as the first time I did it. Great effort again from Mart!
Stanners - 2nd rpt - 19/Jul/12 with Martin Stanfield

grp - Lead - 17/Jul/12 with jon_ridley

jon_ridley - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/12 with Geoff Pyatt

Last did it 17 years ago so not technically an an onsight. Great route
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 24/May/12 with Rich

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/May/12

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 08/May/12 with Shunt

Tim M - Lead rpt - May/12 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - May/12 with cheesesarnie

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/12 with Merlin March

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 05/Mar/12 with Phil

philmcf - 2nd β - 05/Mar/12

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 25/Jan/12 with Shunt

paultaylor - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with maffer the faffer

Charlie got as far as the flake before falling off and deciding he didn't fancy it. I toproped to his highest gear.
Katherine Ross - TR dnf - 10/Dec/11 with Charlie Beard

Cornish Cream - Lead O/S - 04/Dec/11 with Geoff

mattshort - 2nd - 23/Oct/11 with Alan Murray

The start is harder than it looks and the flake is easier! Really liked the moves during the flake sequence though - very satisfying
Alan100 - Lead - 23/Oct/11

Dave89 - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Phil P

Jim Brooke - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/11 with John Southworth

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Jim Brooke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/11

thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 30/Sep/11 with helen

A good although pumpy route. The moves aren't too hard but putting gear in (or taking it out) makes it harder.
JamesRich - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Jack Bradbrook

Good route, its probably not worth placing gear in the fake as long as you make the effort to get some bomber kit in at the top of the grove. The technical crux is actually at the start but the moves into and up the flake are quite pumpy. on the absail I needed to rescue Rob from the nabouring route Smaug the dragon. He got past the crux to a jug in the middle of a blank section and then wasn't able to do the next move or reverse. so in the end I had to tie him to my abb line and take his gear out for him which was quite funny.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with James Rich, Martin Stanfield, Rob Stanfield

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Aug/11

Great climb, spent a long time trying to decide whether or not to go for the direct, decided against but will definitely come back one day..
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Caspian

thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Aug/11

Downclimbed back to the ground after one quick attempt which got me up to 5m. I'll keep this as a project.
Dave Ing - Lead dnf - 04/Aug/11 with Bridgette

luke13 - Aug/11 with oli

Personally found the start leading up to the bulge the crux. Powering up the flake was more execution. (Stripped gear myself on abseil, leaving martin to give it a lead which went....interestingly. Good job the gear is bomber.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Ellie Stanfield, Martin Stanfield

Normally cant see the point of putting did not finish, but this climb resulted in my biggest fall ever, as a result of trying to go from Vdiff to E1 in about 2 weeks. A not so gentle reminder to wear helmet, following falling face first into the rockface and then taking out my belayer. Awesome climb, just messed up the sequence by coming too far right and couldn't revse. :)
Stanley - Lead dnf - 25/Jul/11 with Robster666

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11

was great climbing but certainly strenuous. one of those do you hang around and place kit or just go for it. best route ive done at this crag
stvredmond - Lead - 29/May/11 with Helen Norris, Sean mercer

Hidden - 2nd - 29/May/11

Really fun climb, looks very daunting from the ground, but loved the layback up the flake. :)
Helnorris - 2nd - 29/May/11 with Sean Mercer, Steve Redmond

Hidden - TR dog - 22/May/11

Hidden - TR - 22/May/11

Rested on gear at 3m trying to work out moves up the initial cracks. Rest of the route was fine, so I should get it clean next time.
timstyles - Lead dog - 13/May/11 with Huw Howells

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - May/11 with Ed Heslam

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11

nice big holds to pull on!
dale1968 - 2nd - 11/Mar/11 with Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Feb/11

georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 08/Feb/11 with Harry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/10

foiled again, pumpy, im sure ill be back for a 3rd try though, good route
grp - Lead dog - 20/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

LisaA - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Andy

like the hanging flake moves, doesnt feel like 5b though
adam cooper*super* - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/10 with jack folland

Suberb climb possibly HVS 5a? But who cares it was an awesome climb
Jack_F - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10 with adam cooper* super*

andy dunn - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/10 with J

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

Good holds high up on the traverse right. Roof at the top easier than the flake lower down.
timstyles - 2nd β - 03/Jul/10 with Huw Howells

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jun/10

Nice moves up the cracks. The hidden jug at about 4m proved to be quite well hidden. Up the flake felt pumpy, I was rather thankful that I got the right sized nut for the flake at the second time of asking. Fairly straight forward moves getting over the roof after.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10 with Darren, J

First moves up the crack are teh hardest I think. The key is the pocket/jug on the left at about 4m. Micro-cam useful just under the bulge to the left of the OH flake. The flake itself is strenuous but positive, though I didn't have to arrange the nut.
ruaidh - 2nd - 31/May/10 with Tim

Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10 with Rose Williams

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 21/Mar/10 with Clare

T ny - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09

jlgoddard - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/09 with Eric Herring

JPGR - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Steve Ahern

Hidden - TR - 15/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/09

Laurence Everitt - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/09 with Jay Kay

JimR - 02/May/09

luke13 - 2nd RP - 20/Apr/09 with Dec

deklan - Lead - 16/Apr/09 with luke+julie

thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 14/Apr/09 with Becca

BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/09 with Tom

Al Franks - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Claire

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Claire

cy - 2nd - 11/Oct/08 with Al

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Huw

Jordan fell whilst resting on a piece of gear that pinged out of the flake, proving the importance of good gear on the left and the effectiveness of half ropes. He took a bit of a pendulum and ended up 2 metres off the deck. By my reckoning, if you slip when making that placement or when passing it and it comes out then you will hit the floor. My second attempt at seconding was much easier for knowing the initial sequence of moves up to 3 metres and I finished the whole route without a pause. I came away convinced I could lead it, and may give it a try on Thursday evening. Having to protect the flake myself will make it an entirely different proposition however.
Humpty Dangler - 2nd rpt - 09/Jun/08 with Jordan Lane

Hidden - Lead dog - 09/Jun/08

Placing gear in the flake is the crux and probably essential for a safe ascent.
Paul Robertson - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Guy Percival

You can put gear in above you before moving left, there's no need for gear in the flake itself.
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 13/May/08 with Ben

A real cracker of a route, 3 stars from me all the way.
Feeling bold - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08 with Tom Dixon

Slipped off the easy bit at the top of the flake on the first attempt and busted my ankle, good catch by Maria! Got back on and lead it, really good varied route.
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 03/May/08 with Maria

first E1 - lovely
mattf77 - Lead β - 30/Mar/08 with will

Standing at the bottom and looking up at the route for the first time I expected all the difficulty to be in surmounting the bulge at mid-height and getting over the roof at the top. In fact the real problem was at the bottom. The parallel cracks were hard work, but were avoidable to the left, where a huge jug and some high feet allowed access to an invisible jug that opened up the rest of the route. From there it was plain sailing, the bulge was easy because of the holds on the flake, and the roof has massive holds. And Jordan dropped his Reverso. The shout of "Below!", came ten seconds after it buried itself in the dirt three feet to my left.
Humpty Dangler - 2nd dog - 24/Mar/08 with Jordan Lane

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/Mar/08

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Protheroe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08

daveagriff - TR - 2008

Circus - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/07 with Lou

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/07

A good, varied and challenging route. The start is harder than it looks.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/07 with Clare

Lev - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/07 with Emma Ross

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Mar/07

gimmer - 2007

Matt Tranter - 2007

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2007 with Tanya Scully

craig h - TR O/S - 05/Jun/06 with Shunted

Boxy - Lead β - 13/May/06

Siderunner - Lead O/S - 06/May/06 with Jill

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Mar/06

Very hard route... extremely strenuous
beardy mike - Lead dog - 2006 with Rob Brown

Bern - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Fat Tim - Lead rpt - 11/Jul/05 with PJ

LC - Lead O/S - Jun/05

Hidden - Lead β - 21/Apr/05

Will Homoky - Lead β - Apr/05 with Nick Ingram

tom.e - Lead β - 2005

al99 - Lead O/S - Nov/04 with Andrew Bitmead

Hidden - Lead dog - Sep/04

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/04

1 rest
cem - Lead dog - 27/Mar/04 with Rob Smithies

Urgles - Lead O/S - Oct/03 with Laura

guy xavier percival - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/03 with rob

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/02

rapidrich - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/01 with Katie

Hidden - 2001

Billg - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/00 with Harry

cornishben - Lead O/S - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 2000

KRB - Lead β - 12/Nov/99 with Dave Pickford

Stone Muppet - TR - 1999 with cc

T ny - 1999

serby - Lead - 1999

Hidden - 1998

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/97 with Dom Goodridge

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 16/Jul/94 with paul, jon, marion

ericinbristol - Lead - Jun/94 with Sue L

agagsgrot - 2nd - Apr/94 with Pete

jim_randell - TR dog - 05/Dec/93

ChrisJD - Lead - 21/Sep/91

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/90

AndyB123 - 2nd O/S - 1989 with Andy E

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
badgerjockey, thom_jenkinson, BicycleBradley, davidclare, mloskot, explodingsprouts, Alan100

Total votes cast 142
hard E20 of 46
E20 of 46
easy E20 of 46
hard E16 of 46
E137 of 46
easy E13 of 46
hard HVS0 of 46
HVS0 of 46
easy HVS0 of 46
hard 5c0 of 47
5c0 of 47
easy 5c1 of 47
hard 5b3 of 47
5b37 of 47
easy 5b5 of 47
hard 5a1 of 47
5a0 of 47
easy 5a0 of 47
3 Stars4 of 49
2 Stars33 of 49
1 Star12 of 49
0 Stars0 of 49
Bag of .....0 of 49
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP