Much nicer slightly higher traverse to flake this time, probably did it wrong the first time! Cheese Monkey - 2nd rpt - 09/Aug/14 with Bradley P
Slipped off last time due to humidity, got it clean this time around.
BicycleBradley - Lead RP - 09/Aug/14 with Ben Darby
James S - 2nd - 17/Jul/14 with tom brum
Dan0Me - 2nd - 04/Jul/14 with Geoff P
Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Mark Lee
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/14
EmilyElouise - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14
hutchay - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Emily Palmer
mes32 - 2nd O/S - 04/May/14 with Wilki
miriamclaire - 2nd O/S - 04/May/14
Did not finish repeat. Lesson for us all there.
Hooligan - Lead dog - 21/Apr/14 with Fen
With Tom, Fen and Anne as seconds
Hooligan - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Fen
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/14 with Mark, Clare
The Pylon King - 2nd rpt - 09/Apr/14 with Brian
Finally. The layback is kind of easy in a way, but also kind of hard...
pheotleyr - Lead RP - 30/Mar/14 with Felix
Hold pulled and fell off on a rest
felixizzy - 2nd dog - 30/Mar/14
James S - TR rpt - 29/Mar/14 with ric, si
Oddjob - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Rosie
Thoroughly enjoyable throughout. Not as hard or scary as it looked.
Stuart William - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/14 with Pleb
Crux definitely at the start! Got boxed fiddling a wire into the flake, down climbed to the rest, then easily motored up it, simple
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Juliuus, Neil
TommityP - 2nd rpt - 13/Mar/14
Dan0Me - 2nd - 08/Mar/14 with Tom P
TommityP - Lead rpt - 07/Mar/14
ACorbett82 - 2nd dog - 2014
Didn't dare to commit to the layback first time, took a rest.
pheotleyr - Lead dog - 08/Dec/13 with Mike
Good climbing. ror at the crux and the flake
Mayaculpa - 2nd dog - 08/Dec/13 with Peter
jammy4536 - 2nd O/S - 24/Nov/13
zcsharp - Lead O/S - 24/Nov/13 with Jamie Macleod
shoulders - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/13 with rich smith
Runner fell out of the base of the flake - again!
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 14/Jul/13 with Ben Crook, Greg Clarke
gregclarke - 2nd - 14/Jul/13 with Brian
Had one fall low down
richardashe - Lead dog - 13/Jul/13
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/13
Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Jul/13
tobydunford - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/13 with Harry Martin
Chazwoz - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Jim Tan
kelliroberts3 - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Peter Rigby
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/13
becoming-stranger - 2nd O/S - 22/May/13 with Geoff Pyatt
Rowan Mitchell - 2nd O/S - 18/May/13 with Andre Steele
Hidden - Lead β - 05/May/13
Luke Davies - Lead - 05/May/13
Gibbo - Lead - 02/May/13 with Sash Coombes
I found the technical crux to be low down. The hardest part about the flake was trying to arrange gear! Quality climbing
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 02/May/13 with Emily
Hidden - 2nd β - 02/May/13
super climbing up the flake! worth 2 stars for me.
James S - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with ben
Ben Russell - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/13
jon_ridley - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Ollie, Geoff Pyatt
jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/13 with Geoff Pyatt
drysori - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/13
Luke Davies - 2nd - 05/Feb/13
Hidden - TR O/S - 15/Sep/12
ladymuck - TR dnf - 07/Sep/12 with Alastair Heggie
Garrouli - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Northern Pete
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 30/Aug/12
First E1 lead not on granite
arandall - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/12 with remus knowles
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12
pheotleyr - 2nd β - 15/Aug/12 with Tomar
Tomar - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Peter
Scotsken - Lead - 11/Aug/12 with Jamie Evans
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12
Had to downclimb to the rest after arranging gear in the flake and got pretty pumped. Really quality moves on the bulge too and an exciting finish. Solid in the grade. I'd even say 3 stars.
Kemics - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Rick
Pumped to b*****y!
kirsten - 2nd - 21/Jul/12 with Brian
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 21/Jul/12 with Kirsten
Finally got it. Really scared pulling through the flake after the fall I took last time but the rest went smoothly. Start is definitely the hardest part.
Stanley - Lead rpt - 19/Jul/12 with Stanners
Last route of the day, completely knackered! Excessive swearing at the stuck gear and time limit on getting back to the car park made this one hard to enjoy as much as the first time I did it. Great effort again from Mart!
Stanners - 2nd rpt - 19/Jul/12 with Martin Stanfield
grp - Lead - 17/Jul/12 with jon_ridley
jon_ridley - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/12 with Geoff Pyatt
Last did it 17 years ago so not technically an an onsight. Great route
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 24/May/12 with Rich
love this route!
hms - 2nd rpt - 13/May/12 with Mick Ward
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 08/May/12 with Shunt
Tim M - Lead rpt - May/12 with Emma
climbergg - 2nd - May/12 with cheesesarnie
Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/12 with Merlin March
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 05/Mar/12 with Phil
philmcf - 2nd β - 05/Mar/12
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 25/Jan/12 with Shunt
paultaylor - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with maffer the faffer
Charlie got as far as the flake before falling off and deciding he didn't fancy it. I toproped to his highest gear.
Katherine Ross - TR dnf - 10/Dec/11 with Charlie Beard
Cornish Cream - Lead O/S - 04/Dec/11 with Geoff
mattshort - 2nd - 23/Oct/11 with Alan Murray
The start is harder than it looks and the flake is easier! Really liked the moves during the flake sequence though - very satisfying
Alan100 - Lead - 23/Oct/11
Dave89 - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Phil P
Jim Brooke - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/11 with John Southworth
John Southworth - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Jim Brooke
easier than I had feared. Got right size nut into the bottom of the flake first time, then just went for it.
hms - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Tom
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 30/Sep/11 with helen
A good although pumpy route. The moves aren't too hard but putting gear in (or taking it out) makes it harder.
JamesRich - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Jack Bradbrook
Good route, its probably not worth placing gear in the fake as long as you make the effort to get some bomber kit in at the top of the grove. The technical crux is actually at the start but the moves into and up the flake are quite pumpy.
on the absail I needed to rescue Rob from the nabouring route Smaug the dragon. He got past the crux to a jug in the middle of a blank section and then wasn't able to do the next move or reverse. so in the end I had to tie him to my abb line and take his gear out for him which was quite funny.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with James Rich, Martin Stanfield, Rob Stanfield
Caspar - 2nd - 31/Aug/11 with Simon Reynolds
Great climb, spent a long time trying to decide whether or not to go for the direct, decided against but will definitely come back one day..
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Caspian
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/11
Hidden - 2nd - 21/Aug/11
Downclimbed back to the ground after one quick attempt which got me up to 5m. I'll keep this as a project.
Dave Ing - Lead dnf - 04/Aug/11 with Bridgette
luke13 - Aug/11 with oli
Personally found the start leading up to the bulge the crux. Powering up the flake was more execution. (Stripped gear myself on abseil, leaving martin to give it a lead which went....interestingly. Good job the gear is bomber.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Ellie Stanfield, Martin Stanfield
Normally cant see the point of putting did not finish, but this climb resulted in my biggest fall ever, as a result of trying to go from Vdiff to E1 in about 2 weeks. A not so gentle reminder to wear helmet, following falling face first into the rockface and then taking out my belayer. Awesome climb, just messed up the sequence by coming too far right and couldn't revse. :)
Stanley - Lead dnf - 25/Jul/11 with Robster666
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11
was great climbing but certainly strenuous. one of those do you hang around and place kit or just go for it. best route ive done at this crag
stvredmond - Lead - 29/May/11 with Helen Norris, Sean mercer
Hidden - 2nd - 29/May/11
Really fun climb, looks very daunting from the ground, but loved the layback up the flake. :)
Helnorris - 2nd - 29/May/11 with Sean Mercer, Steve Redmond
Hidden - TR dog - 22/May/11
Hidden - TR - 22/May/11
Rested on gear at 3m trying to work out moves up the initial cracks. Rest of the route was fine, so I should get it clean next time.
timstyles - Lead dog - 13/May/11 with Huw Howells
Spacetourist - Lead O/S - May/11 with Ed Heslam
Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Apr/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11
nice big holds to pull on!
dale1968 - 2nd - 11/Mar/11 with Tom
TommityP - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/11
Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Feb/11
georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 08/Feb/11 with Harry
Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/10
foiled again, pumpy, im sure ill be back for a 3rd try though, good route
grp - Lead dog - 20/Oct/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10
like the hanging flake moves, doesnt feel like 5b though
adam cooper*super* - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/10 with jack folland
Suberb climb possibly HVS 5a? But who cares it was an awesome climb
Jack_F - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10 with adam cooper* super*
andy dunn - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/10 with J
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10
Good holds high up on the traverse right. Roof at the top easier than the flake lower down.
timstyles - 2nd β - 03/Jul/10 with Huw Howells
Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jun/10
Nice moves up the cracks. The hidden jug at about 4m proved to be quite well hidden. Up the flake felt pumpy, I was rather thankful that I got the right sized nut for the flake at the second time of asking. Fairly straight forward moves getting over the roof after.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10 with Darren, J
First moves up the crack are teh hardest I think. The key is the pocket/jug on the left at about 4m. Micro-cam useful just under the bulge to the left of the OH flake. The flake itself is strenuous but positive, though I didn't have to arrange the nut.
ruaidh - 2nd - 31/May/10 with Tim
Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10 with Rose Williams
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 21/Mar/10 with Clare
T ny - 2010
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09
jlgoddard - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09
Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/09 with Eric Herring
JPGR - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Steve Ahern
Hidden - TR - 15/Jul/09
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/09
Laurence Everitt - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/09 with Jay Kay
JimR - 02/May/09
luke13 - 2nd RP - 20/Apr/09 with Dec
deklan - Lead - 16/Apr/09 with luke+julie
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 14/Apr/09 with Becca
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/09 with Tom
Al Franks - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Claire
Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Claire
cy - 2nd - 11/Oct/08 with Al
Steerpike - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Huw
Jordan fell whilst resting on a piece of gear that pinged out of the flake, proving the importance of good gear on the left and the effectiveness of half ropes. He took a bit of a pendulum and ended up 2 metres off the deck. By my reckoning, if you slip when making that placement or when passing it and it comes out then you will hit the floor.
My second attempt at seconding was much easier for knowing the initial sequence of moves up to 3 metres and I finished the whole route without a pause. I came away convinced I could lead it, and may give it a try on Thursday evening. Having to protect the flake myself will make it an entirely different proposition however.
Humpty Dangler - 2nd rpt - 09/Jun/08 with Jordan Lane
Hidden - Lead dog - 09/Jun/08
Placing gear in the flake is the crux and probably essential for a safe ascent.
Paul Robertson - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Guy Percival
You can put gear in above you before moving left, there's no need for gear in the flake itself.
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 13/May/08 with Ben
A real cracker of a route, 3 stars from me all the way.
Feeling bold - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08 with Tom Dixon
Slipped off the easy bit at the top of the flake on the first attempt and busted my ankle, good catch by Maria! Got back on and lead it, really good varied route.
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 03/May/08 with Maria
first E1 - lovely
mattf77 - Lead β - 30/Mar/08 with will
Standing at the bottom and looking up at the route for the first time I expected all the difficulty to be in surmounting the bulge at mid-height and getting over the roof at the top. In fact the real problem was at the bottom. The parallel cracks were hard work, but were avoidable to the left, where a huge jug and some high feet allowed access to an invisible jug that opened up the rest of the route. From there it was plain sailing, the bulge was easy because of the holds on the flake, and the roof has massive holds. And Jordan dropped his Reverso. The shout of "Below!", came ten seconds after it buried itself in the dirt three feet to my left.
Humpty Dangler - 2nd dog - 24/Mar/08 with Jordan Lane
Hidden - Lead dog - 24/Mar/08
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Protheroe
Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08
daveagriff - TR - 2008
Circus - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/07 with Lou
ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/07
A good, varied and challenging route. The start is harder than it looks.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/07 with Clare
Lev - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/07 with Emma Ross
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Mar/07
Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Mar/07
gimmer - 2007
Matt Tranter - 2007
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2007 with Tanya Scully
craig h - TR O/S - 05/Jun/06 with Shunted
Boxy - Lead β - 13/May/06
Siderunner - Lead O/S - 06/May/06 with Jill
Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Mar/06
Very hard route... extremely strenuous
mike kann - Lead dog - 2006 with Rob Brown
Bern - 2006
Marti999 - Lead - 2006
Fat Tim - Lead rpt - 11/Jul/05 with PJ
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/05
Hidden - Lead β - 21/Apr/05
Will Homoky - Lead β - Apr/05 with Nick Ingram
tom.e - Lead β - 2005
al99 - Lead O/S - Nov/04 with Andrew Bitmead
Hidden - Lead dog - Sep/04
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/04
cem - Lead dog - 27/Mar/04 with Rob Smithies
The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Oct/03 with Laura
guy xavier percival - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/03 with rob
_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 2003
Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/02
rapidrich - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/01 with Katie
Hidden - 2001
Billg - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/00 with Harry
cornishben - Lead O/S - 2000
Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 2000
KRB - Lead β - 12/Nov/99 with Dave Pickford
Stone Muppet - TR - 1999 with cc
T ny - 1999
Hidden - 1998
chris sm - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/97 with Dom Goodridge
It was a hard HVS back then
Jon Didymus - Lead dog - 02/Jun/95 with Cheng
NeilGriffiths - Lead - 16/Jul/94 with paul, jon, marion
Jon Didymus - 2nd - 22/Jun/94 with Marcus
agagsgrot - 2nd - Apr/94 with Pete
jim_randell - TR dog - 05/Dec/93
Jon Didymus - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/93 with Martin
ChrisJD - Lead - 21/Sep/91
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/90
AndyB123 - 2nd O/S - 1989 with Andy E