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Nexus*** E1 5b

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[End of a perfect evening - sunset in the Pass, wandering down after Nexus, 2 kb]Perhaps the best out of the three routes, Nexus is an absolute classic and is a good stern test for any aspiring E1 leader. The rock is superb throughout. 1) 6m. Start as for Plexus, but belay on the first large ledge. 2) 5b, 30m. A long, sustained and superb pitch. Follow the slab just right of the large corner to the roof. Hand traverse leftwards under the roof to the arete (thread). Pull round the roof via the good layback-crack and gain the diagonal ramp. Follow this up and right to gain a sloping ledge on the right. Follow the short crack to a shallow groove leading to a good stance just right of the huge roof (junction with Ten Degrees North). 3) 5b, 12m. GUIDEBOOK INCORRECT. Climb the slab on the right until the angle steepens, then move left onto a ledge. Traverse left along a horizontal break (tricky) to a swing round the arete. Belay in the scoop. 4) 4b, 20m. Climb the rest of pitch 3 and then pitch 4 of Plexus in one pitch. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist.

Photo: End of a perfect evening - sunset in the Pass, wandering down after Nexus © Paul Evans
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 225 logbooks, and on 54 wishlists.

edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/14 with adam booth

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/14 with Ed Mitchell

Such a great route! Lead P2
alexjz - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/14 with Gwen

The most cackhanded climbing I've done in a long time. Guidebook description is of dubious value, made a belay in what turned out to be the middle of the main pitch on a ledge that was barely worthy of the name. Spent the next hour untangling the horrendous spaghetti we'd made of the ropes. Climbing was hard in places, harrowing in others, but amazing throughout. The route is a blinder, but take the guidebook description with a pinch of salt and run the first two pitches together.
UncleMephisto - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/14 with Glenn Manifold

Bricked myself on third (trav round arete) pitch. Grabbed the qd clipped to the in situ cam, then saw the state of it. Tiny old HB thing thats heavily corroded at the lobes. Yelped a little with the rope trailling round the arete with no visual of the next pro.
Double Knee Bar - 2nd dog - 11/Jul/14 with Rafe

HB1 - AltLd - 11/Jul/14 with WC

Lead pitches 1,2 and 4. Fell reaching for the layback crack on pitch two and weighted the rope on the pitch three traverse. A shame - pitch two is great. I will claim that a jammed cam in the third pitch traverse made it harder...
Motown - AltLd dog - 11/Jul/14 with Richard

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/14 with Helen

Exceptional route. Like climbing on grit but 5 times the length. One of them days when everything went perfect. Lead both 5b pitches
Dale - Lead O/S - Jul/14 with johny

Misha - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Dave R, Ian W

1st & 3rd pitch. i always thought the traverse on pitch 3 was the one to go for, now i know the 2nd pitch is the pick of the bunch.
leon - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/14 with fabricio

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/14

Bob - 2014

oliverpcain - AltLd O/S - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Tim Sparrow - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

tim20 - 23/Sep/13

tim20 - AltLd - 23/Sep/13

redjerry - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Danny

mop449 - AltLd O/S - Sep/13 with Jerry Handren

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/13

DaveMo - AltLd - 10/Aug/13 with Jan

Led P1 and P3+P4 (strung together). Abbed off from the belay on Plexus to miss out the easy section at the top.
Ant Man Bee - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Led P2.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Paul Bolton

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Mike

Led pitches 2 & 3 (main crux pitch)
Dan724 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Halla Parkin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/13

A gorgeous climb. Excellent balancy sequences on the first 5b pitch, contrasting with committing moves in an intimidating position on the second. Led this - will have to repeat so I can lead the first also. Another of the best E1's I've done, the day after The Grooves. Quality weekend!
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Tim

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 07/Jul/13

My quest to second an E1 cleanly remains uncompleted
sheelba - 2nd - 26/Jun/13

P2 and P4
Rachel Somerville - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Cal

owain86 - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Alex Mason

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd dog - 18/Jun/13

HarryB - AltLd dog - 18/Jun/13 with Ross, Will A

Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Owain Atkins

Dom Whillans - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Adam and Neil

Super, sustained pitch.
NeilGriffiths - Lead - 08/Jun/13 with Chriss, Dom, Adam

First pitch was mine and what a stormer it is. Committing moves almost from the start. followed by a layback with gear if you are tall. This one keeps coming at you, great climbing all the way. Top pitch as always a 'boulder problem in the sky' *** route
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Dom Stockton

As two pitches. Led P1 this time, super chuffed, what a climb. More enjoyable as every move unfolds! Messed up the hand traverse on P3 again on a 2nd though, and finished up the arete after swinging out instead. Failure variation:-)
Sardien - AltLd - 07/Jun/13 with Helena Robinson

Dougie lead the first 5b pitch and I led the second. Top quality.
shed_hed - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

First pitch- Brilliant route on immaculate rock
dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Darren McMaster

Great stuff, Fun traverse
Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13 with Tom Doldon

Nick Biven - 2013

centurion05 - 2013

richpickford - 2013

Did in 3 pitches. Led hand traverse pitch, fantastic slap around arete! Found slab pretty tricky, but lovely moves.
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12 with Jack S

Another gorgeous day in Wales. Loved this route. Lead P2 and P3. Didn't realise that P2 included a 5b move! Very nearly peeled off. Selected climbs in n wales said it was 4b - misleading but happy that I did it.
DaveMo - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12 with Jan

Thought the move on the traverse was harder than either Demetrius or Left Wall Direct!
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 24/May/12 with pit bull rich

dan ely - Lead O/S - 22/May/12 with tony (army)

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

peterbeaumont - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Sep/11

Led "first" pitch (the long slab pitch)
GarethHall - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/11 with Patrick Goodwin

wynaptomos - 2nd dog - 20/Sep/11

Lead the 5b traverse and slapping for the jug at the end was amazing! Still buzzing from it. Good sustained previous pitch too
chriscarroll - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/11 with Mikey

lead first pitch this time, absolute stunner, pulling around the roof is ace and the upper slab is beaut! 3* pitch in its own right, and then 2nd pitch is the icing.
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/11 with Chris Carroll

lowered off lead on pitch 3 at crux but seconded clean
sian88 - AltLd - 27/Jul/11

Amazing route, brilliant! Ran it into two pitches, you can get back to the floor on 60s.
Adam Long - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Ben Bransby

Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Calum

Did in 3 pitches, led 1st and last, brilliant route.
Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Pete S

started at the ledge and led all the picthes. such a amazing climb on awesome rock, dare i say better than grit?!?! the long picth was really cool and sustained but with good gear where you need it, crux i thought was getting the first layback crack off the smears. the hand traverse picth was also really cool, climbed up the flakes above the belay for abit more fun, the crux is short lived, then ran it in one picth to the top. descended by jammed boulder gully, packed trainers and it was ok, 2 abseils after downclimbing abit of a damp gully, one abseil being pretty cool.
al123 - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11 with alex

Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Jul/11

Ran into two pitches. I led the top one (guidebook pitches 3 and 4). Found the traverse straightforward, but seconding the lower main pitch quite tough - wasn't ready for the sustained smearing. Felt quite hard for E1. There is an ab point at the top of the route, and if there is no-one on ten degrees north or the top pitch of plexus it is worth knowing that you can reach the ledge near the bottom from here on 60m ropes, then down-climb the first few metres of the routes.
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Neil Furniss

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with neil mackie

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

halfmanhalfbiscuit - Lead O/S - Jul/11

zero six - Lead O/S - Jul/11

lead the 2nd pitch. quite hard for 5b.
willoates - AltLd - 02/Jun/11

Led long pitch 2. Third pitch is hard for 5b!
brockers - AltLd - 02/Jun/11 with Andy Stotesbury

DubyaJamesDubya - Lead O/S - Jun/11

Luke led the two 5b pitches. I found the last bit of the traverse on pitch 4 pretty difficult.
Chris M Thomas - AltLd - 01/May/11 with Luke

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 24/Apr/11 with Gareth E

The little rockfax book I had said the second (traverse) pitch was 4b... the lengths were more accurate than those in the Ground Up book though. Nice route.
ian d f - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11 with Mark

markfromstoke - 2nd - 20/Apr/11 with Ian

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

David Smith - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

The slabby pitch was great, never desperate but tricky enough and with some committing moves, though the gear is pretty good. The traverse, which Tom led, has a hard section which is ok if you get the feet right. I was quite conscious that for some reason Tom hadn't put any gear in straight after the traverse! Led P2 (the slabby pitch) and P5 (only a scramble after the mantleshelf just above the belay). Had a horrible time descending a disgusting gully. It seemed to match the guide book description of a stone chute about 150 metres W of the top out. However the 'easy 40m abseil' referred to in the guide book was nowhere to be found. Did a 30m ab off an in situ sling (very Alpine) to get over a steep, slimey section that had a stream running down it. From there scrambled down to the base of the crag. Without a doubt the most unpleasant descent I've done in the UK. Not sure if it was HS (horribly slimey) or VS (very slimey). Perhaps HVS? Descending Jammed Boulder Gully is probably equally unappealing, so I'd recommend taking your trainers and walking off round the side past Craig y Rhaeadr.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Tom

beci tointen - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with my uncle carl

Guy Wilson - Lead - 22/Jun/10 with Paulo

pabbage - 22/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jun/10

Led 2nd pitch which was tough and long and 4th which was easier than looked. Cracking climb though.
mike lawrence? - AltLd - 22/Jun/10 with Colin

david morse - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with lole

Ed F - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Rich Lines

irish paul - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Sarah Joyce

mr mills - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/10 with Gareth

Hannes B - AltLd - 05/Jun/10 with Phil

Richard G Wilkinson - 2nd O/S - 23/May/10 with Anthony Allsopp

Anthony Allsopp - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Richard Wilkinson

p1, 2 and 4. tom fell off the end of the traverse a couple of times, but got it in the end
simon kimber - AltLd - 28/Apr/10 with Tom Pearson

Soloed that little pitch to the bottom of first crux pitch. Bubbles led this, good effort to him the move round the roof is sick! this pitch has easier moves but is longer. next pitch is short but has a nails move to gain the arete. Bubbles gave me loads of unwanted beta but that made it worse as he kept telling me how heinous it was! awesome slap for the arete! Wicked day
Duncan Campbell - UKC - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/10 with Bubbles

traverse was easier than expected
caradoc - AltLd - 24/Apr/10 with nick yapp

Hidden - 2010

keith leonard - 2010

soph - 2010

Liam FLeming - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/09 with merlin gallery

2nd pitch, exciting moves. wish i'd got to do the 1st too!
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Ben Alsford

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/09

Soloed P1, Led P3 & 5. What a totally awesome route on some fantastic rock. The traverse on pitch 4 is pretty tough though!
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with Graeme

Hidden - AltLd - May/09

reg_measures - AltLd - 2009 with neil thomas

Seymore Butt - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/08

Hjort - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/08 with William Malcolm

Sgt. Vest - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/08 with toby vye

the juicy dangler - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/08 with carlene hill

Carly - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/08 with Richard

Nicos - Lead O/S - 29/May/08 with frazer

Led the 5b (p3) traverse pitch but wish i'd got the harder and better first 5b pitch - just incredible rock to climb on...
Wilbur - AltLd O/S - 19/May/08 with Caine

Lead pitches 1 and 2
drewish - AltLd O/S - 10/May/08 with SteveE9

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/May/08

The crux pitch was mine. F*ckin awesome!!!
@ndyM@rsh@ll - AltLd O/S - 09/May/08 with James Marjot

amazing must-do route!
viking - AltLd O/S - May/08 with wilbur

Matt Vigg - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

barni - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Liam fleming

Hidden - AltLd - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Nice, can be done in two long pitches if canny with rope work. Scramble to the first ledge. Abb off on one with 60m
French Erick - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Andy Sharpe

I found this very hard and backed off the third pitch with the traverse.
Dave Westby - 2nd dnf - 27/Aug/07 with Liam Gascon

gregoritos - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with John Bull

maybe_si - AltLd O/S - 26/May/07 with dan gibson

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 24/May/07 with simon chevis

Hidden - Lead - Apr/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/06

awesome stuff!
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/06

Adam Booth - AltLd dog - 27/Aug/06 with Ed Booth

Had a go at pitch 4,the 5b traverse,had to back off it,just couldn't comment to the hidden hold around the arete but had no problem when I seconded it,needed bigger balls that day :)
ritchierich - AltLd rpt - 10/Aug/06 with Phil Taggart

Coel Hellier - AltLd - 17/Jul/06 with Pat

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/06

Stig - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/06

Hidden - Jun/06

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - 2006

ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Rob Greenwood

Me 1st and 2nd pitch, Jim 3rd and 4th pitch
Mark A Humphries - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/05 with Jim

we led in 2 long pitches, I got the first. Can't really remember much except that it was good.
Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/05 with Jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/05

a_radiohead_fan - 2005

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jun/04

Slipped cos I wasn't paying attention !
Mark Riley - Lead dog - Sep/03 with Stuart Greenall

Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/03 with Pete Griffiths

Fell off the top of the slab, not paying enough attention.
Mark Riley - AltLd dog - Aug/03 with Stuart Greenall

The Pylon King - AltLd O/S - Aug/03 with Dave

James B - 28/Jun/03 with Phil

Hidden - AltLd - 2003

Paul Boardman - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/02 with Iain Boardman

Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 2002

bullybones - 2002

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/00

Roget - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/99

Hidden - AltLd - 02/May/99

mux - AltLd - 1999

Amazing rock. Very scary traverse to second.
BenTiffin - AltLd - May/98 with Andy Bissell

Led 1st, 3rd and 4th pitches. Very good route although Superdirect better. Amazingly Human Fly Martin H (oo! that's another climb I did with cowbells in 1971 upgraded from HVS to E2) fell off traverse on pitch 4: a basic climbing wall traverse problem! Trad climbers eh?
Scott McRae - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/97 with Martin Hore

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/96

Andy Say - Lead - 02/Jul/95

AlanLittle - Lead - Jul/95 with Al Metelko

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/94 with Steven Delderfield

rob.grafton - 1993 with tony howard, Matthew Bransby, chris pugh

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/92

I got the steep pitch which is not really my style of climbing. The slab pitch is superb. Tried it earlier in the year (April) with Colin Maddison but the rock was too greasy!
Sean Kelly - AltLd - Jul/92 with John Hynes

Tom V - AltLd - 20/Jun/92 with Glenn Watson

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 16/May/92 with mik

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 1992

WB - AltLd O/S - 1992

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/90 with Pete T

ChrisJD - Lead - 14/Jul/90

whispering nic - May/90 with Graham Iles

surfbish - Lead O/S - May/90

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 07/Aug/88 with Jean Williamson

led 2nd and 4th pitches
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/88 with brian jones

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jun/88

S,L,2,L
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 14/May/88

andy gittins - 1988

GuyM - 1985

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 1984 with Phillippa Mathews

jasper11 - 1984

Another exceptionally fine route, with a sensational traverse pitch.
Gordon Stainforth - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/83 with Robert Barton

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 03/Jul/83 with Charlie Leverton

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 13/Jul/82 with Dave Abbey

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Jun/82

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Hidden - AltLd - 01/May/80

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1980 with Mike Wright

Hidden - Lead - 1980

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jun/79

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/79

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 30/Jul/77 with Mike Butler, Jim Worthington

Mike Owen - 19/Jun/77 with John Roberts

ian caton - Lead - 1977

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/76 with Dave Langmead

Hidden - AltLd - 29/May/76

steve L - 1976

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 27/Jul/75 with Dave Humphries

Bolt Phobia - 2nd - 26/Apr/75 with Dave Williams

petemeads - AltLd - 1975

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

mikej - AltLd - 14/Jun/68 with Geoff Williams

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Voting
Total votes cast 141
hard E20 of 49
E20 of 49
easy E22 of 49
hard E135 of 49
E112 of 49
easy E10 of 49
hard HVS0 of 49
HVS0 of 49
easy HVS0 of 49
hard 5c0 of 48
5c0 of 48
easy 5c4 of 48
hard 5b38 of 48
5b6 of 48
easy 5b0 of 48
hard 5a0 of 48
5a0 of 48
easy 5a0 of 48
3 Stars42 of 44
2 Stars2 of 44
1 Star0 of 44
0 Stars0 of 44
Bag of .....0 of 44
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Style of ascent

Lead42 of 225 (18.7%)
Followed11 of 225 (4.9%)
Alt Leads123 of 225 (54.7%)
Unknown49 of 225 (21.8%)

'Climbed'104 of 225 (46.2%)
clean O/S108 of 225 (48.0%)
clean rpt3 of 225 (1.3%)
dogged9 of 225 (4.0%)
dnf1 of 225 (0.4%)