Rockfax Description
Immaculate wall-climbing described here with the now popular direct and logical upper variation. Start 6m left of a small shallow cave at ground level below a thin right-leaning crack.
Pull up to a small hand-ledge just left of the crack and move left and stretch for a positive pocket, bolt above. Climb directly to a good break and continue in the same line on incut holds to a wider horizontal break and large cam placement. Pull straight up the wall above and finish steeply on good holds. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The route starts at the base of the L-R 45 degree crack (although it is not followed.) Climb straight up to a huge hold, which is traversed to the left until it is possible to reach a large pocket above. A series of moves on more pockets leads to a rest in a large horizontal break, this is then traversed rightwards until you reach a short corner, which is then climbed until it is possible to find a line to the top on some variably loose holds.

R Harrison, R A Broomhead 09/May/1980

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Trad climbs for sport climbers.

hankyc 16/May Lead O/S

fun and juggy, first trad for a while though

Caspian Johnson 24/Apr Lead O/S
with brices
Hidden 17/Apr Lead O/S
London Luke ?/Jan Lead O/S

fantastic e3, really nice climbing and safe.

elliptic 05/Dec/15 2nd

The direct version. Jay led it.

with Jay, Max
Hidden 01/Oct/15 TR rpt
Hidden 30/Sep/15 TR O/S
afrosam 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Si
Luxulyan 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Harry
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Brian H 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
ferdia 17/May/15 Lead O/S
with Burton
burto 17/May/15 2nd
with ferdia
whenry 16/May/15 2nd β

Top climb, though bold and reachy start for the leader - fair play, Gav.

with Gav Cytlau
Alex Winter 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Shares the majority of the climbing on Video Kills, but the bit of independent climbing it does have isn't as good. Still worthwhile though. Didn't find any loose holds in the top groove.

with Pablo
ollie_e 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Soft E3 - no bad holds! Great route.

red_rhodesha 18/Apr/15 2nd
R2B 24/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Very friendly E3. Still. a nice wall climb.

with Justin
tobydunford 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Joe Innes 14/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Cailean Harker 28/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Amazing climbing on B E A utiful holds. Best E3 I have done for a while, if ever. Would be a classic in Spain!

with Alex Harper
Hidden 18/Jul/13 TR O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Jul/13 TR
thomasadixon 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S

O/S of the short section that's different to the direct anyway. Worth doing.

with Becca
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Joe Innes 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S

My first E3, from only VS! Awesome climbing, soft for the grade! Started raining when I was at about 10 metres.

Hidden 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S
maddy.c ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden 27/Dec/11 TR rpt
westyb3 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Did the direct last year so did the normal version this time. Think I prefere the direct.

with Heather Ogston
Hidden 26/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Spacetourist 14/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Rosea Day ?/Apr/11 Lead RP

first E3

Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 24/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Gibbo 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Pete Milner, Ollie Keynes
ian d f ??/2008 TR
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 29/Jun/06 TR
Hidden 08/Apr/06 2nd rpt
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Neil Ireson ?/Jul/05 Lead
with Pete M
Hidden ?/Feb/05 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??/2002 -
Tim M ??/2000 -
rapidrich 03/Sep/99 TR O/S
with Katie
John Southworth 01/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Stone Elworthy
Nigel Coe ??/1998 TR
with Norman Wright
NeilGriffiths ??/1994 2nd
with joel
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Roget, Hidden, whenry, Doug miller, max_dickens, Didymus, Owen W-G, GeorgT, Hidden, Hidden, andy dunn, Hidden
High E4
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High E3
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High E2
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Low E2
Votes cast 14
High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 14
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set