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Central Buttress*** E1 5a

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[Malcolm Leflaive, Central Buttress, Extreme E1, Avon Gorge, 1955., 2 kb]A classic and very bold line that gives a memorable climb. Start at a peg and nut belay at the top of the Exhibition Slab, as for Piton Route.. 1) 5a, 23m. Climb straight up the blunt rib to a horizontal break, peg. Climb past the break on the right with difficulty and continue straight up to a second break and overlap, pegs. Pull over and climb boldly up and left, to gain a left-facing flake. Once again climb boldly up and left to a belay on a small sloping ledge below the midpoint of a red leaning wall. Poor 8mm bolt, good medium cam, peg and nuts up to the left.. 2) 5a, 27m. Move right under the steep wall, pegs, until a dramatic step around the overhangs can be made to gain a good horizontal slot. Step right and up past a hidden pocket in the steep wall to a final pull over the lip that gains an easy slab above. Continue to the top past several small trees (possible belays). © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Malcolm Leflaive, Central Buttress, Extreme E1, Avon Gorge, 1955. © M Howell
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 113 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Lead 1st pitch.
richiebongo - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with topher

Led P2, previous one definitly has more meat.
Dr Toph - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Richard

Led P2, E1 5a/b variation. Really good route!
aipattison - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/13 with George Evans

Led P1. Felt it deserved E1 due to seriousness. Great route.
georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Alex Pattison

evhall - AltLd rpt - 26/May/13 with goat

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/May/13

did 2nd pitch direct 5b
mallardhealhook - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/13

mkonca - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/13 with steve gibbs

Chris p2. Led up p2 of this after belay was set a bit high for Great Central Route.
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 03/Mar/13 with Richard Lade

danJBA - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/13 with Joe Fraser

Hidden - 20/Feb/13

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 2013

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Dec/12

Led p1 which is bold but steady in the central section. Did the 5b mantel on p2. Slab above is disappointing. Good route: 2*
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/12 with Nick

Led P1, got caught out in rain above my gear so hung around for a while till it dried!
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/12 with Jamie

zcsharp - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/12 with Harry

top climbing! run-out but ultimately steady climbing so didnt really feel that scary. really enjoyed it, well worth the 3 stars. Done as one pitch.
James S - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/12 with neil

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Harry Martin

AlexD - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Marti

Marti999 - AltLd rpt - 04/Sep/12 with Alex Dennis

Diane - 2nd - 17/Jul/12 with Andrew Tobin

haydng - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Dave

Definately felt very bold although the gear you get is bomber (pegs probably not necessary imo). First 3* route in this bit of main area I thought worth the stars - ignoring the easy slab section at the top.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Becca

Lead easy pitch 2. V good moves over the overhang. First trad route of 2012.
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Tom

Rubbish gear, but great rock. Amazing how an 'E' grade keeps the polish down...
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/11

cbeard - 2nd O/S - 07/Dec/11 with Nick Russell

rained off
Chubbard - Lead dnf - 04/Dec/11 with Mark C, J Robinson

Led in one (with some rope drag). Easy 5a but bold enough to warrant the E1 grading
cem - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Graham Dolman

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/11

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Nov/10 with Ben West

Definitely deserves E1 - Managed to relax and didn't panic - Big grin and a feeling of retrospective enjoyment once safely secured to the belay at the end of the 1st pitch.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with J, Alan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/10

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Liz davies

lizzie789 - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Alasdair88

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 28/Jun/10

lovely route - HVS - but you will hit the deck if you fall off...
evhall - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Fletch + Goat

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/10 with Anna

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/09

got benighted
Tomprusk - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Heather and Matt

Got benighted on the last pitch!!! Epic times gettig back down but made it fine in the end. Really nice route though
hetaher - Lead - 10/Oct/09 with Matt and Tom

Led P2, with the 5b variation through the overhang. Nice moves.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Dale

didn't feel like E1, run out first pitch but easy climbing. lovely rock, no polish
ian d f - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/09

lead the first pitch, very good route finding fun. It is run out but the gear is good when you get it. went off right on top pitch threw the overhang 5b good pitch
Dale - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Andy

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/09 with Mike Kann

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/09

Good climbing whith terifiying run out on the esey slab dont fall of as this wood be bad
Andy Peak 1 - AltLd - 02/Mar/09 with Pete

I found hardly any polish and although the first pitch is not well protected the climbing keeps your attention enough without feeling too hard.
maresia - AltLd O/S - 07/Dec/08 with Rob Scheichl

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/08

Hidden - 30/Jan/08

Hidden - 2008

Andrew1 - Lead - 30/Dec/07 with Rachel Smith

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/07 with Caroline

CarolineH - 2nd - 13/Dec/07 with Dave

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Oct/07

Have tried about 2 years ago but lowered off from peg half way up the first pitch, as i didn't like the run-out. Was being a girl, felt fine this time.
Richard Hall - Lead - 02/Jun/07 with Sam Kendrick

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/07

django - 2nd O/S - Jan/07 with Mike Kann

chris wyatt - AltLd O/S - 2007 with gwyn evans

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

Lev - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/06 with Emma Ross

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/06

Absolutely awesome. Was my first HVS lead, and also my first E1 lead (now upgraded!)
mike kann - Lead - 2006 with Many

Bern - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

Hidden - 2006

al99 - AltLd - 13/May/05 with Rupert Rosedale

Andrew Barker - AltLd O/S - May/05 with Dave Peachey

tom.e - Lead β - 2005

Hidden - Lead β - 2005

Bold pitch
Siderunner - Lead O/S - Oct/04 with Steve G

furry - AltLd O/S - Sep/04 with Neil

KRB - Lead O/S - 30/May/04 with Chris & Martin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/04

IceMonkey1982 - 2004

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/02 with John Marston

Paz - Lead O/S - 2001 with RB

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1999 with Chris Newton, Karen Ghiselli

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

tradguy - 2nd O/S - 29/Oct/94 with Ian Butler

AndySL - AltLd O/S - 1994 with Jerry

AndyB123 - AltLd - 1989 with Andy E

mark-abz - AltLd - 25/Oct/87 with Andy W

Hidden - Lead - 1987

bullybones - Lead - 1987

led p1 HVS*** 4c at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 19/Apr/86 with Steve Stean, Simon Harry

eroica64 - AltLd - 17/Nov/85 with John Graeme

it was polished then!
JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - 1984 with Graham Aveyard

Lead 11/10/81
stp - Solo rpt - 04/Dec/83

John Marsland - Lead - 26/Mar/83 with Tony Rex

charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 25/Oct/82

nigehughes - AltLd - Oct/82 with Phil James

Hidden - Solo rpt - Aug/82

AlanLittle - AltLd - 1982

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/79

Also led it July 8th 1979 with Martin who was back from his broken leg
Kafoozalem - 2nd - 1978 with David Walter

beaumap - Lead - 02/Sep/77 with Pete Coghill

Falko - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/76 with Alan Taylor

Andy Chubb - AltLd - Dec/75 with Andrew Collins, Pete Coghill

Bolt Phobia - 2nd - 22/Nov/75 with Wil Hurford

Bolt Phobia - 2nd - 1975

Mark Kemball - 2nd - Nov/74 with Charlie Cook

Steve Woollard - Lead O/S - 1973

Hidden - 2nd - 1972

Then given VS. Found hard and terrifying for grade, with just a few v poor pegs for protection. I declined to lead any of it ...
Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 18/Oct/69 with Tim James, Chris West

Hidden - 2nd - 1968

Hidden - AltLd - 1965

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Alex Winter, Hidden, Hidden, Stanners, Katherine Ross, Hidden, Fred_Richard, Hidden, Quarryboy, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 83
hard E20 of 29
E20 of 29
easy E20 of 29
hard E10 of 29
E18 of 29
easy E111 of 29
hard HVS10 of 29
HVS0 of 29
easy HVS0 of 29
hard 5b0 of 27
5b0 of 27
easy 5b0 of 27
hard 5a0 of 27
5a11 of 27
easy 5a12 of 27
hard 4c4 of 27
4c0 of 27
easy 4c0 of 27
3 Stars7 of 27
2 Stars18 of 27
1 Star2 of 27
0 Stars0 of 27
Bag of .....0 of 27
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 113 (2.7%)
Lead33 of 113 (29.2%)
Followed21 of 113 (18.6%)
Alt Leads47 of 113 (41.6%)
Unknown9 of 113 (8.0%)

'Climbed'39 of 113 (34.5%)
clean O/S65 of 113 (57.5%)
clean β2 of 113 (1.8%)
clean rpt6 of 113 (5.3%)
dnf1 of 113 (0.9%)