Rockfax Description
A classic and very bold line that gives a memorable climb. Start at a peg and nut belay at the top of the Exhibition Slab, as for Piton Route.
1) 5a, 23m. Climb straight up the blunt rib to a horizontal break, peg. Climb past the break on the right with difficulty and continue straight up to a second break and overlap, pegs. Pull over and climb boldly up and left, to gain a left-facing flake. Once again climb boldly up and left to a belay on a small sloping ledge below the midpoint of a red leaning wall. Poor 8mm bolt, good medium cam, peg and nuts up to the left.
2) 5a, 27m. Move right under the steep wall, pegs, until a dramatic step around the overhangs can be made to gain a good horizontal slot. Step right and up past a hidden pocket in the steep wall to a final pull over the lip that gains an easy slab above. Continue to the top past several small trees (possible belays). © Rockfax

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads.

Hidden 01/Nov AltLd O/S
Ezra_Byrne 31/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Oct 2nd O/S
JoeCoxson 18/Sep Lead O/S

Definitely run out at times, but never desperate. Swinging onto the top slab is no pushover though...

omaskrey 18/Sep 2nd O/S

Joe lead it.

lukegorman 18/Sep 2nd
Gibbo 17/Sep 2nd
with Ed Wright
Hidden 08/Sep Solo O/S
ollie_e 02/Sep Lead O/S

In the rain...very bold first pitch.

with Caspian
Caspian Johnson 02/Sep AltLd O/S
with ollie_e
Tom Brierley Gore 25/Jun Lead O/S

Ok... bit confused by the 3 stars. Also very easy for E1 but i guess you'd expect that for the massive lack of gear - managed to find a few mico placements in the danger zone but probably only decelerators. There is an amusing array of multiple broken and failed pegs at various points showing the age of this route.

sheelba 24/Jun AltLd

Led p2

with Max
Legs 24/Jun AltLd O/S

Lead p1. Solid climbing, but sparsely protected.

Hidden 14/Jun 2nd
Hidden 31/May Lead O/S
Alex Winter 10/May Lead O/S

In one pitch, finishing direct. A good frightner. The gear's sparse, but the climbing is straightforward enough.

with Ieuan
LucasHarazin 21/Apr Lead O/S

Quite a few runouts. Pretty bold one

malina 18/Apr 2nd
Hidden 16/Apr AltLd β
hutchay 15/Apr AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch, move after the belay is still fun.

with Dave Clover
james1978 15/Mar AltLd
Hidden 20/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
hutchay 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Fliss
youwillfindjimbo 14/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Ely
Hidden 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Fred_Richard 20/May/14 Lead

Lead both pitches. Terrifyingly bold but no desperate moves. E1 for the long runout definetly.

with neil
KatOstrich 14/May/14 Lead O/S

Went off route on Piton and ended up on this, first E1. Really nice climb

with Catherine Johns
catty_9 14/May/14 2nd O/S

Meant to climb piton route but Katherine forgot to go left at the start so ended up on this instead. Not very protected, but technically fine to second

Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S
George Frisby 10/Feb/14 2nd O/S
zcsharp 10/Feb/14 Lead rpt
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow ??/2014 -
Hidden 02/Nov/13 2nd
pheotleyr 29/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Somewhat bold at the start, cluster of great gear about half way up and then a big run-out (with some opportunities for dubious gear) with straightforward climbing. Hard HVS, (possibly soft) 5a. 2*. Done in 1 pitch.

with Jana
Cheese Monkey 25/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Most definitely only HVS. Very well protected 5a moves then a long 4b runout - awesome!

with James S
James S 25/Sep/13 2nd

Well led by Ben. I thought I'd already done this last year but what Ben did today and what I did last year were wildly different lines. Instead of trending left I followed the vague right trending ramp-line towards the right hand end of the overlaps and then up. Maybe something new but who knows!

with ben darby
Misha 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Mildly spicy runout on P1. The start of P2 is good with the step round the corner and the steep wall above but a bit spoilt by the chossy finishing slab. Worth a couple of stars. Led P1.

with Ed
eduardo 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Traverse moves right of belay were fun, nice little commiiting step up to get onto the top slab. Not sure if I'd done this line before - some of it felt vaguely familiar.

Martin Haworth 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Climbed in a single pitch, was out of rope by the top, using 60m ropes!

with Andy
Andrew Sloan 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S

The line looked very indistinct from below but was actually better than I thought it would be but only just warrants 2 stars.

masa-alpin 19/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I lead P1, 3, and Dave did P2. Serious?? Reasonably well protected route. The in-situ pegs can be easily backed up. Solid HVS 5a and nowhere close to E1, I thought. Even at the top of P1, you might fall off for 10 metres if the last gear fails, but the fall factor is 0.5 only and the move is only 4a/b at that point - range of VS rather than HVS, let alone E1, in that respect (there are well-protected 5a moves below, hence HVS is appropriate). I misread the guidebook description and went a bit too left at the crux, and so I did a 5b move there but it was my mistake. Anyway, the rock is surprisingly rough and offers a pleasantly good friction - I like that.

with Dave W-J
Hidden 19/Aug/13 2nd
Stanners 25/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Straightforward climbing but the runout lived up to expectations! Your a dead man if you come off the top, but also a bit of a numpty. Just have to be careful.

Urgles 25/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

I led easy P2 P1 = E0 4d **

with Jack and Rob
Quarryboy 25/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Total textbook Avon climbing, Rob led first relatively bold pitch and then Mark decided he wanted up as well so I got comfy in a seating position on the Great Central Route belay and waited. Second pitch which Mark led was also quite good although a little short lived.

richiebongo 10/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch.

with topher
Dr Toph 10/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2, previous one definitly has more meat.

with Richard
aipattison 06/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2, E1 5a/b variation. Really good route!

georgeevans88 06/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Felt it deserved E1 due to seriousness. Great route.

Hidden 26/May/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 19/May/13 AltLd O/S
mallardhealhook 23/Apr/13 2nd O/S

did 2nd pitch direct 5b

mkonca 02/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with steve gibbs
Chris Sansum 03/Mar/13 AltLd rpt

Chris p2. Led up p2 of this after belay was set a bit high for Great Central Route.

with Richard Lade
danJBA 20/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/13 -
steve_gibbs ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Mustafa
jcw ??/2013 -
Ed Babs 08/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Dec/12 2nd O/S
Didymus 20/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Led p1 which is bold but steady in the central section. Did the 5b mantel on p2. Slab above is disappointing. Good route: 2*

with Nick
HarryB 18/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1, got caught out in rain above my gear so hung around for a while till it dried!

with Jamie
zcsharp 18/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Harry
James S 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S

top climbing! run-out but ultimately steady climbing so didnt really feel that scary. really enjoyed it, well worth the 3 stars. Done as one pitch.

with neil
tobydunford 16/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
AlexD 04/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Marti
Marti999 04/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 17/Jul/12 2nd
haydng 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Dave
thomasadixon 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Definately felt very bold although the gear you get is bomber (pegs probably not necessary imo). First 3* route in this bit of main area I thought worth the stars - ignoring the easy slab section at the top.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Lead easy pitch 2. V good moves over the overhang. First trad route of 2012.

with Tom
Nick Russell 07/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Rubbish gear, but great rock. Amazing how an 'E' grade keeps the polish down...

cbeard 07/Dec/11 2nd O/S
Chubbard 04/Dec/11 Lead dnf

rained off

with Mark C, J Robinson
cem 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led in one (with some rope drag). Easy 5a but bold enough to warrant the E1 grading

Pete Rigby 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
_m.cox_ ?/Nov/10 Lead O/S
andy dunn 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Definitely deserves E1 - Managed to relax and didn't panic - Big grin and a feeling of retrospective enjoyment once safely secured to the belay at the end of the 1st pitch.

with J, Alan
Hidden 10/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Alasdair88 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
lizzie789 31/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Marti999 09/Feb/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden 18/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Tomprusk 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S

got benighted

with Heather and Matt
HeatherF 10/Oct/09 Lead

Got benighted on the last pitch!!! Epic times gettig back down but made it fine in the end. Really nice route though

with Matt and Tom
Andy Clarke 29/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Led P2, with the 5b variation through the overhang. Nice moves.

with Dale
ian d f 17/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

didn't feel like E1, run out first pitch but easy climbing. lovely rock, no polish

Dale ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

lead the first pitch, very good route finding fun. It is run out but the gear is good when you get it. went off right on top pitch threw the overhang 5b good pitch

with Andy
Somerset swede basher 04/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Mike Kann
Hidden 02/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 02/Mar/09 AltLd

Good climbing whith terifiying run out on the esey slab dont fall of as this wood be bad

with Pete
maresia 07/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

I found hardly any polish and although the first pitch is not well protected the climbing keeps your attention enough without feeling too hard.

with Rob Scheichl
Hidden 05/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jan/08 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Andrew1 30/Dec/07 Lead
with Rachel Smith
Bristoldave 13/Dec/07 Lead O/S
with Caroline
CarolineH 13/Dec/07 2nd
with Dave
Hidden 23/Oct/07 AltLd
Richard Hall 02/Jun/07 Lead

Have tried about 2 years ago but lowered off from peg half way up the first pitch, as i didn't like the run-out. Was being a girl, felt fine this time.

with Sam Kendrick
Hidden ?/Mar/07 2nd
django ?/Jan/07 2nd O/S
with Mike Kann
chris wyatt ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with gwyn evans
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Lev 22/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/06 2nd O/S
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead

Absolutely awesome. Was my first HVS lead, and also my first E1 lead (now upgraded!)

with Many
Bern ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Marcus ??/2006 -
al99 13/May/05 AltLd
with Rupert Rosedale
Andrew Barker ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
with Dave Peachey
tom.e ??/2005 Lead β
Hidden ??/2005 Lead β
Siderunner ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S

Bold pitch

with Steve G
furry ?/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
with Neil
KRB 30/May/04 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
Hidden ?/May/04 AltLd O/S
IceMonkey1982 ??/2004 -
DavidR 29/Mar/02 AltLd O/S
with John Marston
Paz ??/2001 Lead O/S
with RB
Hidden 14/May/00 AltLd
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 -

Lovely, noisy balance climbing.

Ian Jones ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Chris Newton, Karen Ghiselli
mikej 30/Apr/95 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
tradguy 29/Oct/94 2nd O/S
with Ian Butler
AndySL ??/1994 AltLd O/S
with Jerry
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
AndyB123 ??/1989 AltLd
with Andy E
mark-abz 25/Oct/87 AltLd
with Andy W
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
bullybones ??/1987 Lead
Pete Nugent 19/Apr/86 AltLd

led p1 HVS*** 4c at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)

with Steve Stean, Simon Harry
eroica64 17/Nov/85 AltLd
with John Graeme
JamieAyres ??/1984 2nd O/S

it was polished then!

with Graham Aveyard
stp 04/Dec/83 Solo rpt

Lead 11/10/81

John Marsland 26/Mar/83 Lead
with Tony Rex
charlesmfrench 25/Oct/82 Solo O/S
nigehughes ?/Oct/82 AltLd
with Phil James
Hidden ?/Aug/82 Solo rpt
AlanLittle ??/1982 AltLd
Nevil ??/1981 -

Do not know correct year

Hidden ??/1981 -
Hidden ?/May/79 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1978 2nd
beaumap 02/Sep/77 Lead
with Pete Coghill
Falko 23/Apr/76 AltLd O/S
with Alan Taylor
steve L 24/Feb/76 Lead O/S
with Morty
Andy Chubb ?/Dec/75 AltLd
with Andrew Collins, Pete Coghill
Bolt Phobia 22/Nov/75 2nd
with Wil Hurford
Bolt Phobia ??/1975 2nd
Mark Kemball ?/Nov/74 2nd
with Charlie Cook
Hidden ??/1973 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1972 2nd
Gordon Stainforth 18/Oct/69 2nd

Then given VS. Found hard and terrifying for grade, with just a few v poor pegs for protection. I declined to lead any of it ...

with Tim James, Chris West
Hidden ??/1968 2nd
Hidden ??/1965 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, andycash, Legs, Roget, hutchay, Hidden, TB30, BicycleBradley, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Stanners, Katherine Ross, Hidden, Fred_Richard, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 47
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set