Ok... bit confused by the 3 stars. Also very easy for E1 but i guess you'd expect that for the massive lack of gear - managed to find a few mico placements in the danger zone but probably only decelerators. There is an amusing array of multiple broken and failed pegs at various points showing the age of this route.
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/15 with Shijing Hu
sheelba - AltLd - 24/Jun/15 with Max
Lead p1. Solid climbing, but sparsely protected.
Legs - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/15
rhys.nadin - 2nd - 14/Jun/15 with Richard Nadin
Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/15
In one pitch, finishing direct. A good frightner. The gear's sparse, but the climbing is straightforward enough.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 10/May/15 with Ieuan
Quite a few runouts. Pretty bold one
LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/15
malina - 2nd - 18/Apr/15
Hidden - AltLd β - 16/Apr/15
Lead second pitch, move after the belay is still fun.
hutchay - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/15 with Dave Clover
james1978 - AltLd - 15/Mar/15
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/14
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/14
hutchay - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Fliss
youwillfindjimbo - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/14 with Dan Ely
Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14
Lead both pitches. Terrifyingly bold but no desperate moves. E1 for the long runout definetly.
Fred_Richard - Lead - 20/May/14 with neil
Went off route on Piton and ended up on this, first E1. Really nice climb
KatOstrich - Lead O/S - 14/May/14 with Catherine Johns
Meant to climb piton route but Katherine forgot to go left at the start so ended up on this instead. Not very protected, but technically fine to second
catty_9 - 2nd O/S - 14/May/14 with Kat Ostrich
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14
George Frisby - 2nd O/S - 10/Feb/14
zcsharp - Lead rpt - 10/Feb/14 with George Frisby
Neil - Lead O/S - 2014
Tim Sparrow - 2014
Hidden - 2nd - 02/Nov/13
Somewhat bold at the start, cluster of great gear about half way up and then a big run-out (with some opportunities for dubious gear) with straightforward climbing. Hard HVS, (possibly soft) 5a. 2*. Done in 1 pitch.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/13 with Jana
Most definitely only HVS. Very well protected 5a moves then a long 4b runout - awesome!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/13 with James S
Well led by Ben. I thought I'd already done this last year but what Ben did today and what I did last year were wildly different lines. Instead of trending left I followed the vague right trending ramp-line towards the right hand end of the overlaps and then up. Maybe something new but who knows!
James S - 2nd - 25/Sep/13 with ben darby
Mildly spicy runout on P1. The start of P2 is good with the step round the corner and the steep wall above but a bit spoilt by the chossy finishing slab. Worth a couple of stars. Led P1.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Ed
Lead P2. Traverse moves right of belay were fun, nice little commiiting step up to get onto the top slab.
Not sure if I'd done this line before - some of it felt vaguely familiar.
eduardo - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/13
Climbed in a single pitch, was out of rope by the top, using 60m ropes!
Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Andy
The line looked very indistinct from below but was actually better than I thought it would be but only just warrants 2 stars.
Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Martin Haworth
I lead P1, 3, and Dave did P2. Serious?? Reasonably well protected route. The in-situ pegs can be easily backed up. Solid HVS 5a and nowhere close to E1, I thought. Even at the top of P1, you might fall off for 10 metres if the last gear fails, but the fall factor is 0.5 only and the move is only 4a/b at that point - range of VS rather than HVS, let alone E1, in that respect (there are well-protected 5a moves below, hence HVS is appropriate).
I misread the guidebook description and went a bit too left at the crux, and so I did a 5b move there but it was my mistake. Anyway, the rock is surprisingly rough and offers a pleasantly good friction - I like that.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/13 with Dave W-J
Hidden - 2nd - 19/Aug/13
Led P1. Straightforward climbing but the runout lived up to expectations! Your a dead man if you come off the top, but also a bit of a numpty. Just have to be careful.
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Jack Bradbrook
I led easy P2
P1 = E0 4d **
Urgles - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Jack and Rob
Total textbook Avon climbing, Rob led first relatively bold pitch and then Mark decided he wanted up as well so I got comfy in a seating position on the Great Central Route belay and waited. Second pitch which Mark led was also quite good although a little short lived.
Quarryboy - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies
Lead 1st pitch.
richiebongo - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with topher
Led P2, previous one definitly has more meat.
Dr Toph - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Richard
Led P2, E1 5a/b variation. Really good route!
aipattison - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/13 with George Evans
Led P1. Felt it deserved E1 due to seriousness. Great route.
georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Alex Pattison
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 26/May/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/May/13
did 2nd pitch direct 5b
mallardhealhook - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/13
mkonca - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/13 with steve gibbs
Chris p2. Led up p2 of this after belay was set a bit high for Great Central Route.
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 03/Mar/13 with Richard Lade
danJBA - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/13 with Joe Fraser
Hidden - 20/Feb/13
steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 2013 with Mustafa
jcw - 2013
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Iain Moodie
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Dec/12
Led p1 which is bold but steady in the central section. Did the 5b mantel on p2. Slab above is disappointing. Good route: 2*
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/12 with Nick
Led P1, got caught out in rain above my gear so hung around for a while till it dried!
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/12 with Jamie
zcsharp - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/12 with Harry
top climbing! run-out but ultimately steady climbing so didnt really feel that scary. really enjoyed it, well worth the 3 stars. Done as one pitch.
James S - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/12 with neil
tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Harry Martin
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Marti
Marti999 - AltLd rpt - 04/Sep/12 with Alex Dennis
Hidden - 2nd - 17/Jul/12
haydng - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Dave
Definately felt very bold although the gear you get is bomber (pegs probably not necessary imo). First 3* route in this bit of main area I thought worth the stars - ignoring the easy slab section at the top.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Becca
Lead easy pitch 2. V good moves over the overhang. First trad route of 2012.
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Tom
Rubbish gear, but great rock. Amazing how an 'E' grade keeps the polish down...
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/11
cbeard - 2nd O/S - 07/Dec/11 with Nick Russell
Chubbard - Lead dnf - 04/Dec/11 with Mark C, J Robinson
Led in one (with some rope drag). Easy 5a but bold enough to warrant the E1 grading
cem - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Graham Dolman
Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/11
_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Nov/10 with Ben West
Definitely deserves E1 - Managed to relax and didn't panic - Big grin and a feeling of retrospective enjoyment once safely secured to the belay at the end of the 1st pitch.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with J, Alan
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/10
Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Liz davies
lizzie789 - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Alasdair88
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 28/Jun/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/10 with Anna
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/09
Tomprusk - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Heather and Matt
Got benighted on the last pitch!!! Epic times gettig back down but made it fine in the end. Really nice route though
HeatherF - Lead - 10/Oct/09 with Matt and Tom
Led P2, with the 5b variation through the overhang. Nice moves.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Dale
didn't feel like E1, run out first pitch but easy climbing. lovely rock, no polish
ian d f - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/09
lead the first pitch, very good route finding fun. It is run out but the gear is good when you get it. went off right on top pitch threw the overhang 5b good pitch
Dale - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Andy
Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/09 with Mike Kann
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09
Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/09
Good climbing whith terifiying run out on the esey slab dont fall of as this wood be bad
Andy Peak 1 - AltLd - 02/Mar/09 with Pete
I found hardly any polish and although the first pitch is not well protected the climbing keeps your attention enough without feeling too hard.
maresia - AltLd O/S - 07/Dec/08 with Rob Scheichl
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/08
Hidden - 30/Jan/08
Hidden - 2008
Andrew1 - Lead - 30/Dec/07 with Rachel Smith
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/07 with Caroline
CarolineH - 2nd - 13/Dec/07 with Dave
Hidden - AltLd - 23/Oct/07
Have tried about 2 years ago but lowered off from peg half way up the first pitch, as i didn't like the run-out. Was being a girl, felt fine this time.
Richard Hall - Lead - 02/Jun/07 with Sam Kendrick
Hidden - 2nd - Mar/07
django - 2nd O/S - Jan/07 with Mike Kann
chris wyatt - AltLd O/S - 2007 with gwyn evans
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007
Lev - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/06 with Emma Ross
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/06
Absolutely awesome. Was my first HVS lead, and also my first E1 lead (now upgraded!)
beardy mike - Lead - 2006 with Many
Bern - 2006
John Lisle - 2006
Marcus - 2006
al99 - AltLd - 13/May/05 with Rupert Rosedale
Andrew Barker - AltLd O/S - May/05 with Dave Peachey
tom.e - Lead β - 2005
Hidden - Lead β - 2005
Siderunner - Lead O/S - Oct/04 with Steve G
furry - AltLd O/S - Sep/04 with Neil
KRB - Lead O/S - 30/May/04 with Chris & Martin
Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/04
IceMonkey1982 - 2004
DavidR - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/02 with John Marston
Paz - Lead O/S - 2001 with RB
Hidden - AltLd - 14/May/00
Hidden - 2000
Hidden - 2000
Lovely, noisy balance climbing.
alan moore - 2000
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1999 with Chris Newton, Karen Ghiselli
mikej - AltLd - 30/Apr/95 with Nick Salmon
lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95
tradguy - 2nd O/S - 29/Oct/94 with Ian Butler
AndySL - AltLd O/S - 1994 with Jerry
Hidden - AltLd - 1993
AndyB123 - AltLd - 1989 with Andy E
mark-abz - AltLd - 25/Oct/87 with Andy W
Hidden - Lead - 1987
bullybones - Lead - 1987
led p1 HVS*** 4c at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 19/Apr/86 with Steve Stean, Simon Harry
eroica64 - AltLd - 17/Nov/85 with John Graeme
it was polished then!
JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - 1984 with Graham Aveyard
stp - Solo rpt - 04/Dec/83
John Marsland - Lead - 26/Mar/83 with Tony Rex
charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 25/Oct/82
nigehughes - AltLd - Oct/82 with Phil James
Hidden - Solo rpt - Aug/82
AlanLittle - AltLd - 1982
Hidden - 1981
Hidden - 1981
Hidden - Lead O/S - May/79
Hidden - 2nd - 1978
beaumap - Lead - 02/Sep/77 with Pete Coghill
Falko - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/76 with Alan Taylor
Andy Chubb - AltLd - Dec/75 with Andrew Collins, Pete Coghill
Bolt Phobia - 2nd - 22/Nov/75 with Wil Hurford
Bolt Phobia - 2nd - 1975
Mark Kemball - 2nd - Nov/74 with Charlie Cook
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1973
Hidden - 2nd - 1972
Then given VS. Found hard and terrifying for grade, with just a few v poor pegs for protection. I declined to lead any of it ...
Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 18/Oct/69 with Tim James, Chris West
Hidden - 2nd - 1968
Hidden - AltLd - 1965