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Central Buttress*** E1 5a

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[Malcolm Leflaive, Central Buttress, Extreme E1, Avon Gorge, 1955., 2 kb]A classic and very bold line that gives a memorable climb. Start at a peg and nut belay at the top of the Exhibition Slab, as for Piton Route.. 1) 5a, 23m. Climb straight up the blunt rib to a horizontal break, peg. Climb past the break on the right with difficulty and continue straight up to a second break and overlap, pegs. Pull over and climb boldly up and left, to gain a left-facing flake. Once again climb boldly up and left to a belay on a small sloping ledge below the midpoint of a red leaning wall. Poor 8mm bolt, good medium cam, peg and nuts up to the left.. 2) 5a, 27m. Move right under the steep wall, pegs, until a dramatic step around the overhangs can be made to gain a good horizontal slot. Step right and up past a hidden pocket in the steep wall to a final pull over the lip that gains an easy slab above. Continue to the top past several small trees (possible belays). © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: Malcolm Leflaive, Central Buttress, Extreme E1, Avon Gorge, 1955. © M Howell
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 140 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

youwillfindjimbo - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/14 with Dan Ely

spaced gear. tricky route reading on pitch 2. good friction though
mark4344 - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/14 with Matt Payne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14

Lead both pitches. Terrifyingly bold but no desperate moves. E1 for the long runout definetly.
Fred_Richard - Lead - 20/May/14 with neil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/May/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14

George Frisby - 2nd O/S - 10/Feb/14

zcsharp - Lead rpt - 10/Feb/14 with George Frisby

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

Tim Sparrow - 2014

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Nov/13

Somewhat bold at the start, cluster of great gear about half way up and then a big run-out (with some opportunities for dubious gear) with straightforward climbing. Hard HVS, (possibly soft) 5a. 2*. Done in 1 pitch.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/13 with Jana

Most definitely only HVS. Very well protected 5a moves then a long 4b runout - awesome!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/13 with James S

Well led by Ben. I thought I'd already done this last year but what Ben did today and what I did last year were wildly different lines. Instead of trending left I followed the vague right trending ramp-line towards the right hand end of the overlaps and then up. Maybe something new but who knows!
James S - 2nd - 25/Sep/13 with ben darby

Mildly spicy runout on P1. The start of P2 is good with the step round the corner and the steep wall above but a bit spoilt by the chossy finishing slab. Worth a couple of stars. Led P1.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Ed

Lead P2. Traverse moves right of belay were fun, nice little commiiting step up to get onto the top slab. Not sure if I'd done this line before - some of it felt vaguely familiar.
eduardo - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/13

Climbed in a single pitch, was out of rope by the top, using 60m ropes!
Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Andy

The line looked very indistinct from below but was actually better than I thought it would be but only just warrants 2 stars.
Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Martin Haworth

I lead P1, 3, and Dave did P2. Serious?? Reasonably well protected route. The in-situ pegs can be easily backed up. Solid HVS 5a and nowhere close to E1, I thought. Even at the top of P1, you might fall off for 10 metres if the last gear fails, but the fall factor is 0.5 only and the move is only 4a/b at that point - range of VS rather than HVS, let alone E1, in that respect (there are well-protected 5a moves below, hence HVS is appropriate). I misread the guidebook description and went a bit too left at the crux, and so I did a 5b move there but it was my mistake. Anyway, the rock is surprisingly rough and offers a pleasantly good friction - I like that.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/13 with Dave W-J

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Aug/13

Led P1. Straightforward climbing but the runout lived up to expectations! Your a dead man if you come off the top, but also a bit of a numpty. Just have to be careful.
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Jack Bradbrook

I led easy P2 P1 = E0 4d **
The Pylon King - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Jack and Rob

Total textbook Avon climbing, Rob led first relatively bold pitch and then Mark decided he wanted up as well so I got comfy in a seating position on the Great Central Route belay and waited. Second pitch which Mark led was also quite good although a little short lived.
Quarryboy - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies

Lead 1st pitch.
richiebongo - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with topher

Led P2, previous one definitly has more meat.
Dr Toph - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Richard

Led P2, E1 5a/b variation. Really good route!
aipattison - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/13 with George Evans

Led P1. Felt it deserved E1 due to seriousness. Great route.
georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Alex Pattison

evhall - AltLd rpt - 26/May/13 with goat

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/May/13

did 2nd pitch direct 5b
mallardhealhook - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/13

mkonca - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/13 with steve gibbs

Chris p2. Led up p2 of this after belay was set a bit high for Great Central Route.
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 03/Mar/13 with Richard Lade

danJBA - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/13 with Joe Fraser

Hidden - 20/Feb/13

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 2013

jcw - 2013

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Dec/12

Led p1 which is bold but steady in the central section. Did the 5b mantel on p2. Slab above is disappointing. Good route: 2*
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/12 with Nick

Led P1, got caught out in rain above my gear so hung around for a while till it dried!
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/12 with Jamie

zcsharp - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/12 with Harry

top climbing! run-out but ultimately steady climbing so didnt really feel that scary. really enjoyed it, well worth the 3 stars. Done as one pitch.
James S - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/12 with neil

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Harry Martin

AlexD - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Marti

Marti999 - AltLd rpt - 04/Sep/12 with Alex Dennis

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Jul/12

haydng - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Dave

Definately felt very bold although the gear you get is bomber (pegs probably not necessary imo). First 3* route in this bit of main area I thought worth the stars - ignoring the easy slab section at the top.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Becca

Lead easy pitch 2. V good moves over the overhang. First trad route of 2012.
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Tom

Rubbish gear, but great rock. Amazing how an 'E' grade keeps the polish down...
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/11

cbeard - 2nd O/S - 07/Dec/11 with Nick Russell

rained off
Chubbard - Lead dnf - 04/Dec/11 with Mark C, J Robinson

Led in one (with some rope drag). Easy 5a but bold enough to warrant the E1 grading
cem - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Graham Dolman

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/11

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Nov/10 with Ben West

Definitely deserves E1 - Managed to relax and didn't panic - Big grin and a feeling of retrospective enjoyment once safely secured to the belay at the end of the 1st pitch.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with J, Alan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/10

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Liz davies

lizzie789 - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Alasdair88

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 28/Jun/10

lovely route - HVS - but you will hit the deck if you fall off...
evhall - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Fletch + Goat

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/10 with Anna

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/09

got benighted
Tomprusk - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Heather and Matt

Got benighted on the last pitch!!! Epic times gettig back down but made it fine in the end. Really nice route though
hetaher - Lead - 10/Oct/09 with Matt and Tom

Led P2, with the 5b variation through the overhang. Nice moves.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Dale

didn't feel like E1, run out first pitch but easy climbing. lovely rock, no polish
ian d f - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/09

lead the first pitch, very good route finding fun. It is run out but the gear is good when you get it. went off right on top pitch threw the overhang 5b good pitch
Dale - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Andy

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/09 with Mike Kann

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/09

Good climbing whith terifiying run out on the esey slab dont fall of as this wood be bad
Andy Peak 1 - AltLd - 02/Mar/09 with Pete

I found hardly any polish and although the first pitch is not well protected the climbing keeps your attention enough without feeling too hard.
maresia - AltLd O/S - 07/Dec/08 with Rob Scheichl

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/08

Hidden - 30/Jan/08

Hidden - 2008

Andrew1 - Lead - 30/Dec/07 with Rachel Smith

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/07 with Caroline

CarolineH - 2nd - 13/Dec/07 with Dave

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Oct/07

Have tried about 2 years ago but lowered off from peg half way up the first pitch, as i didn't like the run-out. Was being a girl, felt fine this time.
Richard Hall - Lead - 02/Jun/07 with Sam Kendrick

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/07

django - 2nd O/S - Jan/07 with Mike Kann

chris wyatt - AltLd O/S - 2007 with gwyn evans

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

Lev - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/06 with Emma Ross

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/06

Absolutely awesome. Was my first HVS lead, and also my first E1 lead (now upgraded!)
mike kann - Lead - 2006 with Many

Bern - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

Hidden - 2006

al99 - AltLd - 13/May/05 with Rupert Rosedale

Andrew Barker - AltLd O/S - May/05 with Dave Peachey

tom.e - Lead β - 2005

Hidden - Lead β - 2005

Bold pitch
Siderunner - Lead O/S - Oct/04 with Steve G

furry - AltLd O/S - Sep/04 with Neil

KRB - Lead O/S - 30/May/04 with Chris & Martin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/04

IceMonkey1982 - 2004

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/02 with John Marston

Paz - Lead O/S - 2001 with RB

Hidden - 2000

Ally Smith - 2000

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1999 with Chris Newton, Karen Ghiselli

mikej - AltLd - 30/Apr/95 with Nick Salmon

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

tradguy - 2nd O/S - 29/Oct/94 with Ian Butler

AndySL - AltLd O/S - 1994 with Jerry

AndyB123 - AltLd - 1989 with Andy E

mark-abz - AltLd - 25/Oct/87 with Andy W

Hidden - Lead - 1987

bullybones - Lead - 1987

led p1 HVS*** 4c at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 19/Apr/86 with Steve Stean, Simon Harry

eroica64 - AltLd - 17/Nov/85 with John Graeme

it was polished then!
JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - 1984 with Graham Aveyard

Lead 11/10/81
stp - Solo rpt - 04/Dec/83

John Marsland - Lead - 26/Mar/83 with Tony Rex

charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 25/Oct/82

nigehughes - AltLd - Oct/82 with Phil James

Hidden - Solo rpt - Aug/82

AlanLittle - AltLd - 1982

Hidden - 1981

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/79

Hidden - 2nd - 1978

beaumap - Lead - 02/Sep/77 with Pete Coghill

Falko - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/76 with Alan Taylor

Andy Chubb - AltLd - Dec/75 with Andrew Collins, Pete Coghill

Bolt Phobia - 2nd - 22/Nov/75 with Wil Hurford

Bolt Phobia - 2nd - 1975

Mark Kemball - 2nd - Nov/74 with Charlie Cook

Steve Woollard - Lead O/S - 1973

Hidden - 2nd - 1972

Then given VS. Found hard and terrifying for grade, with just a few v poor pegs for protection. I declined to lead any of it ...
Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 18/Oct/69 with Tim James, Chris West

Hidden - 2nd - 1968

Hidden - AltLd - 1965

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Hidden, TB30, BicycleBradley, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Stanners, Katherine Ross, Hidden, Fred_Richard, Hidden, Quarryboy, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 117
hard E20 of 41
E20 of 41
easy E20 of 41
hard E10 of 41
E110 of 41
easy E117 of 41
hard HVS11 of 41
HVS3 of 41
easy HVS0 of 41
hard 5b0 of 38
5b0 of 38
easy 5b0 of 38
hard 5a0 of 38
5a19 of 38
easy 5a15 of 38
hard 4c4 of 38
4c0 of 38
easy 4c0 of 38
3 Stars9 of 38
2 Stars27 of 38
1 Star2 of 38
0 Stars0 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 140 (2.1%)
Lead42 of 140 (30.0%)
Followed29 of 140 (20.7%)
Alt Leads54 of 140 (38.6%)
Unknown12 of 140 (8.6%)

'Climbed'47 of 140 (33.6%)
clean O/S83 of 140 (59.3%)
clean β2 of 140 (1.4%)
clean rpt7 of 140 (5.0%)
dnf1 of 140 (0.7%)