3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
140m. Something of an esoteric classic which doesn't see much traffic any more, this still provides a decent day out if you fancy an adventure. There is minimal fixed gear other than old pegs and the odd sling at the belays.
Approach - From the top of the Index chairlift, descend towards Lac Blanc for 50m then take the jeep track on the left which takes you up towards the Grande Floria and Aiguillette de la Floria. Just after the path branches off to the Grande Floria, the jeep track crests a small col and begins to descend rightwards. When it does this, cut off left and pass under the Aiguillette de la Floria and then climb up to the top of the Floria drag lift. 20m past the drag lift take a path off left, across the scree slope and under the foot of Pointe Gaspard. Climb the gully above, on the left initially, following a grassy path. Climb the scree to the foot of the route.
1) 3b, 30m. Traverse right to reach a deep chimney.
2) 3c, 40m. Climb this initially then step right and climb the crest of the pillar before coming back left to belay.
3) 3c, 40m. Climb the slabby ramp just to the left of the corner. There are two pegs to belay off at the end of this pitch but back them up.
4) 5a/A0, 30m. Move left (crux), making use of one of the belay pegs (6b if done free), and then climb more easily to reach the top of Lux.
Descent - Descend the Crochues Traverse via combination of downclimbing and abseiling. It is also possible to abseil Lux. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This is a 4 pitch rock climb followed by an exposed ridge scramble. Hike up the gully under the col des Aiguilles Crochues until you can exit by an obvious ledge on the right. From the RH end of the ledge traverse into a chimney system which leads to the top in 3 pitches. Follow the narrow ridge to the Col des Dards and descend the path to Lac Blanc.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead
John HW 28/Jun/11 AltLd
with Si Naylor
knicos ?/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 15/Jul/08 -
Hidden 15/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead dnf
alek 16/Jul/06 AltLd dnf

Chossy death trap

Piers Harley ?/Jul/06 AltLd
with Chris Grimble
dellboy 27/Jun/06 2nd O/S

Climbed as part of the Traverse of the Crochues, very good climb and you avoid all the crowds completing the traverse

with Stu Heald, Jon Rogerson
Stuie 27/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Jon lead p1,p3 Stu lead p2,p4 James Second

with Jon Rogerson & James Dell
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
adamscottthomas 06/Jul/03 AltLd

I took the first pitch (4b). Followed route by moving together on the Traverse of the Crochues and then an epic glissade down to Lac Blanc before the obligatory pizza and stella at La Rencard in Argentiere

with Ian Johnson and Oliver Mentz
liz j ?/Sep/01 2nd
with neil brodie
Ed Saint ?/Sep/01 -
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
freeheel47 ?/Jul/87 -
Voting
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
Votes cast 1
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 1
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set