4 pitches. A regional classic, taking an improbable line under the huge roofs of Carn Gloose. The climbing is not particularly hard for E1, but the setting is serious enough to make escape difficult. Both members of the party should be competent at the grade. 4 pitches: 4b, 5a/b, 5b, 5a

R Edwards, C Bryan 31/Mar/1980

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Kernow, West Country Climbs, MIA logbook must haves!, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E1 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Tom Ripley's Top 5 E1 Climbs.

Hidden 18/Oct AltLd dog
nickdonohue 01/Sep AltLd
with Tom Lawfield
HaleAlex ?/Sep AltLd dog

Lead P1 and P3. Just about managed to beat the tides. Fell at the anchor at the start of P3 then finished without too much trouble. WHAT A CLIMB!

Hidden 06/Aug AltLd
Mark Kemball 03/Aug 2nd

What a superb route! Oddly I couldn't remember anything about it from last time.

with Duncan Robinson, Solly Kemball Dorey
JoeCoxson 01/Aug AltLd O/S

Climbed at high tide. Had to abseil into a ledge about 3/4 along the first pitch due to swell, then did the high tide variation of pitch 2. I took P2&4, luke lead the awesome P3. Proper climbing adventure, some very atmospheric swell around the corner, but we managed to stay dry. Finished just as the sun was setting

lukegorman 01/Aug AltLd O/S

Had to skip the first pitch due to extremely rough seas at high tide. lead the 20m 5b pitch (3. in WCC). Incredible!

papashango 22/Jul AltLd O/S

perfect temps, big sea, lovely

with PJ
pete johnson 22/Jul AltLd O/S
robgixer 18/Jul AltLd O/S
Dizz 21/Jun AltLd dnf

First pitch both ways due to high seas!

with Ian F
foostu4 05/Jun AltLd
Hidden 05/Jun AltLd O/S
fulton333 20/May Lead

Think we did the low line on P1 and the high one on P2, seemed the most logical. Forgot nutkey so some stuck nuts but the route was alot of fun, basking shark floating round the bay too! Superb!

with Aidan
Scooter Young ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 05/Oct/14 AltLd
DubyaJamesDubya 28/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Big sea!

with Ian Smith
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd
musgravet 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Olly had P1 (4b) and P3(5b), I took P2(5b) and P4(5a)

with Olly P
Dilwat 03/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

P2 and 4. Remarkable climb. Goes through some fantastic situations with something around every corner! It looks like there has been a rockfall below the belay stance at the end of P1. We took the high line which seemed fine but a group after us came through low and seemed to miss the stance altogether ending up below the belay point. Having not done this before I don't know what has changed.

nickdonohue 03/Aug/14 AltLd

A brilliant adventure; very intimidating when you turn the corner, but it is surprisingly amenable technically. We did the high variation of pitch 1 (not by intention it just seemed the obvious way to go) and then pitches 2,3 and 4 as per original description. However, a rockfall has altered the end of the low variation of pitch 1. We saw the team after us climb this way (so it is possible) but it may be a bit harder now. Also (as their leader orginally did before he realised he had overshot the 1st belay) it is possible (and may be more logical) to continue traversing at this lower level and go straight to the 2nd belay. i.e. run the old pitches 1 and 2 together.

spragglerocks 30/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1&3. Got lost on p1 ended up on higher line. Awesome committing route, happy to get this tick!

with Matt
richiebongo 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Lead most of it until the final wall on pitch 4 where i took a belated belay.

with Mat Coburn
1poundSOCKS 29/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

We abseiled in, pulled the ropes, and got confused. I was planning to lead the 5b downclimb (P2), but Rich got lost and ended up on the belay for P3. He kindly (???) offered the lead of the 'wild' 5b pitch, which was nice and damp, but I didn't want spoil his fun (and get us benighted/killed/wet), so I declined. I then led P4, or most of P4 because Rich missed the belay again. A serious route for both, make sure leader and second are competent at the grade, but also great fun if you are. A pint of shandy in the Gurnard's Head afterwards and I just about managed to drive us back to the campsite. Memorable day.

Alex Mason 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Main pitch is fantastic, the rest are rather droll.

with Jemma Powell
tim newton 26/Jun/14 Solo O/S
MaccMark 18/Jun/14 AltLd
with Gareth Williams
Sean Kelly 18/Jun/14 2nd dnf

No belay ledge after the first pitch so a rope of three was not a good idea. Reversed back and soloed up the abseil line, leaving the others to complete the climb, while the rest of us supped beer in the Gurnard's Head!

with MaccMark, James Williams
Fred_Richard 14/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

Most of P1 has fallen into the sea it appears probably last winter I guess. We escaped on the west wall by the abseil as we did not no know how much more was affected. From what I read here the rest of the route is OK. May be we could have tried.

with bill turner
Brian H 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

led P1 and P3 - brilliant route.

Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Drew M ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Kirill 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Got lost on P1, so Graham led another pitch to get us to the right place. I then led P2 and P4. Will have to come back to lead P3. Such an amazing route!

tumbling wizard ?/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with andrew marshall
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
gripped01 24/Aug/13 AltLd

Led pitches 2 to 4. Just an amazing route.

with Alex Tomczynski
Tom Livingstone 07/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3. Amazing territory. Best to wait for afternoon sun to burn off the grease.

Dan Lane 07/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

P2 and 4. How good is this! lots of different climbing styles and the rock on the last pitch reminded me of gogarth Red Walls a little...

gowla 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Keith Mitchell, will kumar
owillmot ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with AIT
Alex the Alex ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

A reaally good climb. One of the wildest and most commiting climbs I think ive done! How the hell did they ever find it! Lead 2nd and 4th and will be back to lead the 3rd.

Kevster 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Not as good as the hype suggests. Done in 2 pitches - p1&2, then P3&4. Glad it was this way as the belay after P3 was just a little fishy.

with Dave R
Hidden 26/Jun/13 2nd
Justin T 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

P1&3, raining when we started, brilliant stroll out above a beautiful sea.

Joel Perkin 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Big Rob
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
morganator 18/May/13 Solo

Wild trip, crashing sea beneath. All chalked up but greasy on the crux

Adam Booth 18/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Jan (BMC International Meet), Ed Booth
Ed Booth 18/May/13 2nd O/S

Big queue. We pissed around doing the first few pitch variations a few times back and forwards while waiting including me taking a lead lob when a hold snapped.

with JAn Slovenia, Adam Booth
soph 18/May/13 Solo rpt


Misha 17/May/13 AltLd O/S

Amazing, five stars, best E1 I've ever done! Total commitment on a devious line with insane space walking positions. Viktor took the higher line on P1 after deciding that what turned out to be the lower line looked too hard. I led P2, which meant Viktor got the exciting downclimb, fortunately there was a small cam to protect it. This time I took the upper line after deciding the lower line looked too hard! A good technical 5b sequence ensued. Viktor got the wild pitch, which was interesting to second. In his words, the little downclimb to the belay was 'the whipped cream on the mashed potatoes' - a Swedish saying meaning OTT! I led the easier escape pitch. A real sea cliff experience. It rained while we were on it but it stayed dry, apart from some holds that we're damp anyway! Deafening noise from the swell hitting the rocks opposite the cliff but underneath the cliff it was sheltered from the NE wind, so at least we didn't get splashed! With Viktor on the BMC international meet. Simply brilliant. Should be E2 for the commitment and the crazy situations.

with Viktor
adie84 ??/2013 -
cymjt ??/2013 -
The_Boy_ODwyer 10/Aug/12 AltLd

P2 and 4

with Ian Lau
Hidden 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
mick1jones 06/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Awesome route. Led pitches 2 and 4

with Rich Rogers
mike lawrence? 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

great climb

with Colin
Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
El3ctroFuzz 30/May/12 Lead O/S

Did p2 + p3. Joe did P1 + P4. I didnt really find it that 'Wild' But certainly an interesting route... Soft for 5b but potentially committing.

with Joe Harris
greenclimb 09/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Dave Rumney 30/Mar/12 AltLd

cold, sheltered, dry & wild

with Tanya Milner
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 AltLd
with Alex Haslehurst
guy757 06/Nov/11 AltLd

Wild third pitch

Frostie 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Well worth the 3 stars, the pitch up to and under the roof pure magic.

soph ?/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Helena Robinson
Matthew Robinson 18/Aug/11 AltLd
with Jon
Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
CRiddiford 24/Jun/11 2nd

really fun, even in the rain, got some jams too!

with Tom, Becca, Mike
BeccaSnowden 24/Jun/11 2nd dog

Slipped on wet rock on pitch 2 and grabbed gear on even wetter pitch 3. Exciting!

with Tom
thomasadixon 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Awesome! Was dry to start then started raining when I was on the second pitch. I stayed dry thanks to the overhangs for this and the next pitch (though the rock was soaking from seepage) then had a soaking wet slab to finish. Climbing didn't feel hard for E1 but atmosphere was awesome, especially standing on the belays watching the rain pouring down. Climbed as a four.

oliver.ghill91 10/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
HamishD ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Amazing route!

with Oliver Hill
Hidden 30/Apr/11 AltLd
Ian Jones 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Some scary rock getting to the first belay. Awkward descent on pitch 2. Main pitch ok and pitch 4. Very hot.

with Colonel Sir Timothy Clarke C.E.O., Major Daniel Moore
Hidden 30/Apr/11 2nd dog
Marcus ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Jacob k-d 25/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

wild climb in some incredible positions. dws potential?

with dave gill
Hidden 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
david morse 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

very intimidating! Pretty scary for E1 but probably not E2. Wouldnt bother with the back rope, I used it but was more hassle than good. The runners are good enough without it. p3 is the meat of the route anyhow, Amazing route

with chris todd
Hidden 03/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Si dH 13/Aug/10 AltLd dnf

Got as far as the start of pitch 2 and then retreated due to combination of wet holds, rising tide and rough seas. Will come back.

with Neil Furniss
Bobby Gilbert 12/May/10 AltLd O/S

With Marko from Croatia on BMC international meet. Poured with rain while we were on it but none of the holds got wet! Brilliant route.

with Marko Martinovic
Hidden 23/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/09 AltLd dnf
Hidden 01/Jul/09 Lead dnf
cornishben 21/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Fantastic Route. Backed off on Thursday evening after seeing the 1st belay being soaked by a wave. This time all went smoothly. Led P2/4

with Marc Elliot
chris sm 21/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Got soaked by a wave on the 1st 2 metres of the route.... all plain sailing after that.

with Pippa Froggatt
Owen W-G 05/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 (high tide traverse with 5b splits move) and P4, mercifully easy after the first move. P3 was a bit of a struggle, altho I did get cold sat at second stance for ages. The full body jam is an unavoidable grovel as far as I could tell.

with Gav
Hidden 29/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd rpt
riddle 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S

A superb climb, wonderfully terrifying. Pitch 3 was the best.

mikeyjbs 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
Hidden 01/Sep/08 Lead
tuftynick ??/2008 -
Hidden 14/Jun/07 Lead O/S
cem 06/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Led p 2 & 4

Tim Sparrow ?/Apr/07 AltLd


with Geoff Thomas
yesbutnobutyesbut ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden 05/Jul/06 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
PaulTanton ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Dave Taylor
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden 18/Sep/05 AltLd
Tim Steward 17/Jun/05 AltLd
with James Parrot
John Kettle ??/2005 AltLd
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden 30/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
WB ??/2001 AltLd O/S
with Guy
jfletcher 17/Jun/00 AltLd

Big sea!

with Roger Alston
Marti999 ?/Apr/00 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2000 AltLd
westaway ??/2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 -
Mark Kemball 29/Jul/99 Lead
with Ian Howdin
andy_pemberton ??/1999 AltLd
with Steve Gooberman Hill
Hidden ?/May/98 AltLd O/S
belay bunny turned bad ??/1998 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1998 AltLd
lost.arrow 31/Mar/97 AltLd
with Tim Malone
Hidden 30/Mar/97 AltLd
Just Another Dave ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with Ben Hope
colin milton 15/Sep/96 AltLd dog


with eric milton
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
GAtkins 21/Oct/95 AltLd O/S
with Jonny Baker
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/Jul/95 Lead
with Emmy McCowen
Hidden ?/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/May/95 Lead O/S
frost ?/May/95 AltLd
markpollak ??/1995 -
with roy thomas
John Southworth ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
keefe 26/May/91 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 26/May/91 -
with keefe
RichardMc 30/Mar/91 AltLd O/S
with Jon Clifford-Smith
Bern ??/1991 AltLd O/S
TonyF ?/May/90 AltLd O/S
with Pete Scott
bullybones ??/1990 -
BigHairyIan 29/Aug/89 AltLd O/S

MAGNIFICENT route. Well named. Very committing, and good at the grade. Don't fail!

with Mike Buckley (Little Mike)
Mike Owen 24/Aug/89 -
with Lew Brown, Elaine Owen
Bruce Kerr 13/Jul/89 AltLd
with Keith Turton
robbie Warke ??/1988 Solo O/S

Amazing day, windy but dry, one of my best days climbing ever!

Nigel Coe 24/May/87 -

Approx date

with Steve Berry, Gordon Jenkin
Hidden 10/May/87 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/85 AltLd
keefe 27/Aug/84 -
Hidden ??/1983 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
rob1 ??/0000 AltLd
with Dave Williams
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Votes cast 48
High 5c
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