P2 and 4. Remarkable climb. Goes through some fantastic situations with something around every corner! It looks like there has been a rockfall below the belay stance at the end of P1. We took the high line which seemed fine but a group after us came through low and seemed to miss the stance altogether ending up below the belay point. Having not done this before I don't know what has changed.Dilwat - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Nick Donohue
A brilliant adventure; very intimidating when you turn the corner, but it is surprisingly amenable technically.
We did the high variation of pitch 1 (not by intention it just seemed the obvious way to go) and then pitches 2,3 and 4 as per original description. However, a rockfall has altered the end of the low variation of pitch 1. We saw the team after us climb this way (so it is possible) but it may be a bit harder now. Also (as their leader orginally did before he realised he had overshot the 1st belay) it is possible (and may be more logical) to continue traversing at this lower level and go straight to the 2nd belay. i.e. run the old pitches 1 and 2 together.
nickdonohue - AltLd - 03/Aug/14 with Ian Riddell
Led p1&3. Got lost on p1 ended up on higher line. Awesome committing route, happy to get this tick!
spragglerocks - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/14 with Matt
Lead most of it until the final wall on pitch 4 where i took a belated belay.
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/14 with Mat Coburn
We abseiled in, pulled the ropes, and got confused. I was planning to lead the 5b downclimb (P2), but Rich got lost and ended up on the belay for P3. He kindly (???) offered the lead of the 'wild' 5b pitch, which was nice and damp, but I didn't want spoil his fun (and get us benighted/killed/wet), so I declined. I then led P4, or most of P4 because Rich missed the belay again. A serious route for both, make sure leader and second are competent at the grade, but also great fun if you are. A pint of shandy in the Gurnard's Head afterwards and I just about managed to drive us back to the campsite. Memorable day.
1poundSOCKS - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/14
tim newton - Solo O/S - 26/Jun/14
MaccMark - AltLd - 18/Jun/14 with Gareth Williams
No belay ledge after the first pitch so a rope of three was not a good idea. Reversed back and soloed up the abseil line, leaving the others to complete the climb, while the rest of us supped beer in the Gurnard's Head!
Sean Kelly - 2nd dnf - 18/Jun/14 with MaccMark, James Williams
Most of P1 has fallen into the sea it appears probably last winter I guess. We escaped on the west wall by the abseil as we did not no know how much more was affected. From what I read here the rest of the route is OK. May be we could have tried.
Fred_Richard - AltLd dnf - 14/Jun/14 with bill turner
led P1 and P3 - brilliant route.
Brian H - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Kafoozalem
Hidden - AltLd - Jun/14
Got lost on P1, so Graham led another pitch to get us to the right place. I then led P2 and P4. Will have to come back to lead P3. Such an amazing route!
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Graham Dolman
Hidden - 2014
mike mo - 2014
Led pitches 2 to 4. Just an amazing route.
gripped01 - AltLd - 24/Aug/13 with Alex Tomczynski
P1 and P3. Amazing territory. Best to wait for afternoon sun to burn off the grease.
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/13 with Dan Lane
P2 and 4. How good is this! lots of different climbing styles and the rock on the last pitch reminded me of gogarth Red Walls a little...
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/13 with Tom Livingstone
gowla - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Keith Mitchell, will kumar
owillmot - AltLd O/S - Jul/13 with AIT
A reaally good climb. One of the wildest and most commiting climbs I think ive done! How the hell did they ever find it! Lead 2nd and 4th and will be back to lead the 3rd.
Alex the Alex - AltLd O/S - Jul/13
Not as good as the hype suggests. Done in 2 pitches - p1&2, then P3&4. Glad it was this way as the belay after P3 was just a little fishy.
Kevster - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/13 with Dave R
Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jun/13
P1&3, raining when we started, brilliant stroll out above a beautiful sea.
Justin T - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with John Mcshea
Joel Perkin - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Big Rob
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13
Wild trip, crashing sea beneath. All chalked up but greasy on the crux
morganator - Solo - 18/May/13 with Sophie Whyte
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 18/May/13 with Jan (BMC International Meet), Ed Booth
Big queue. We pissed around doing the first few pitch variations a few times back and forwards while waiting including me taking a lead lob when a hold snapped.
Ed Booth - 2nd O/S - 18/May/13 with JAn Slovenia, Adam Booth
Amazing, five stars, best E1 I've ever done! Total commitment on a devious line with insane space walking positions. Viktor took the higher line on P1 after deciding that what turned out to be the lower line looked too hard. I led P2, which meant Viktor got the exciting downclimb, fortunately there was a small cam to protect it. This time I took the upper line after deciding the lower line looked too hard! A good technical 5b sequence ensued. Viktor got the wild pitch, which was interesting to second. In his words, the little downclimb to the belay was 'the whipped cream on the mashed potatoes' - a Swedish saying meaning OTT! I led the easier escape pitch. A real sea cliff experience. It rained while we were on it but it stayed dry, apart from some holds that we're damp anyway! Deafening noise from the swell hitting the rocks opposite the cliff but underneath the cliff it was sheltered from the NE wind, so at least we didn't get splashed! With Viktor on the BMC international meet. Simply brilliant. Should be E2 for the commitment and the crazy situations.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 17/May/13 with Viktor
adie84 - 2013
P2 and 4
The_Boy_ODwyer - AltLd - 10/Aug/12 with Ian Lau
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12
Awesome route. Led pitches 2 and 4
mick1jones - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/12 with Rich Rogers
mike lawrence? - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Colin
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12
Did p2 + p3. Joe did P1 + P4. I didnt really find it that 'Wild' But certainly an interesting route... Soft for 5b but potentially committing.
El3ctroFuzz - Lead O/S - 30/May/12 with Joe Harris
greenclimb - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/12 with Sarah
cold, sheltered, dry & wild
Dave Rumney - AltLd - 30/Mar/12 with Tanya Milner
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Rob Greenwood - UKC - AltLd - 2012 with Alex Haslehurst
Wild third pitch
guy757 - AltLd - 06/Nov/11 with John Frost
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/11
soph - AltLd O/S - Sep/11 with Helena Robinson
Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 18/Aug/11 with Jon
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11
really fun, even in the rain, got some jams too!
CRiddiford - 2nd - 24/Jun/11 with Tom, Becca, Mike
Slipped on wet rock on pitch 2 and grabbed gear on even wetter pitch 3. Exciting!
BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 24/Jun/11 with Tom
Awesome! Was dry to start then started raining when I was on the second pitch. I stayed dry thanks to the overhangs for this and the next pitch (though the rock was soaking from seepage) then had a soaking wet slab to finish. Climbing didn't feel hard for E1 but atmosphere was awesome, especially standing on the belays watching the rain pouring down. Climbed as a four.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/11 with Caroline, Mike, Becca
olly12344 - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/11
HamishD - AltLd O/S - Jun/11 with Oliver Hill
Hidden - AltLd - 30/Apr/11
Some scary rock getting to the first belay. Awkward descent on pitch 2. Main pitch ok and pitch 4. Very hot.
Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Colonel Sir Timothy Clarke C.E.O., Major Daniel Moore
Hidden - 2nd dog - 30/Apr/11
Marcus - 2011
GeoffG - 2011
mwatson - 2011
wild climb in some incredible positions. dws potential?
Jacob k-d - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/10 with dave gill
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10
very intimidating! Pretty scary for E1 but probably not E2. Wouldnt bother with the back rope, I used it but was more hassle than good. The runners are good enough without it. p3 is the meat of the route anyhow, Amazing route
david morse - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with chris todd
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/10
Got as far as the start of pitch 2 and then retreated due to combination of wet holds, rising tide and rough seas. Will come back.
Si dH - AltLd dnf - 13/Aug/10 with Neil Furniss
With Marko from Croatia on BMC international meet. Poured with rain while we were on it but none of the holds got wet! Brilliant route.
Bobby Gilbert - AltLd O/S - 12/May/10 with Marko Martinovic
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/09
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 02/Jul/09
Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Jul/09
Fantastic Route. Backed off on Thursday evening after seeing the 1st belay being soaked by a wave. This time all went smoothly. Led P2/4
cornishben - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Marc Elliot
Got soaked by a wave on the 1st 2 metres of the route.... all plain sailing after that.
chris sm - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Pippa Froggatt
Led pitches 2 (high tide traverse with 5b splits move) and P4, mercifully easy after the first move. P3 was a bit of a struggle, altho I did get cold sat at second stance for ages. The full body jam is an unavoidable grovel as far as I could tell.
Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/09 with Gav
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/09
Hidden - AltLd rpt - May/09
A superb climb, wonderfully terrifying. Pitch 3 was the best.
riddle - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Mike Stephenson
mikeyjbs - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Roger Hamilton-Smith
Hidden - Lead - 01/Sep/08
tuftynick - 2008
Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/07
Led p 2 & 4
cem - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/07 with Graham Dolman
Tim Sparrow - AltLd - Apr/07 with Geoff Thomas
yesbutnobutyesbut - AltLd - 2007
Hidden - Lead dog - 05/Jul/06
Hidden - AltLd dog - 05/Jul/06
PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Dave Taylor
Bern - 2006
Hidden - AltLd - 18/Sep/05
Tim Steward - AltLd - 17/Jun/05 with James Parrot
John Kettle - AltLd - 2005
Hidden - 2003
WB - AltLd O/S - 2001 with Guy
Marti999 - AltLd O/S - Apr/00
Hidden - AltLd - 2000
westaway - Lead O/S - 2000
Tim M - 2000
Mark Kemball - Lead - 29/Jul/99 with Ian Howdin
andy_pemberton - AltLd - 1999 with Steve Gooberman Hill
belay bunny turned bad - AltLd O/S - 1998
ChrisJD - AltLd - 1998 with rc
Hidden - AltLd - 30/Mar/97
colin milton - AltLd dog - 15/Sep/96 with eric milton
Hidden - Lead - 1996
GAtkins - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/95 with Jonny Baker
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 06/Jul/95 with Emmy McCowen
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/95
Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/95
frost - AltLd - May/95
markpollak - 1995 with roy thomas
John Southworth - Lead O/S - Jul/91
keefe - 26/May/91 with Glenn Sutcliffe
Glenn Sutcliffe - 26/May/91 with keefe
Bern - AltLd O/S - 1991
Hidden - 1990
MAGNIFICENT route. Well named. Very committing, and good at the grade. Don't fail!
BigHairyIan - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/89 with Mike Buckley (Little Mike)
Mike Owen - 24/Aug/89 with Lew Brown, Elaine Owen
Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 13/Jul/89 with Keith Turton
Amazing day, windy but dry, one of my best days climbing ever!
robbie Warke - Solo O/S - 1988
Nigel Coe - 24/May/87 with Steve Berry, Gordon Jenkin
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/87
Hidden - AltLd - May/85
keefe - 27/Aug/84
Marcus - 1980
Marcus - 1980
Marcus - 1980
Marcus - 1980
rob1 - AltLd - 0000 with Dave Williams