Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Follow Social Criticism to below the overhang. Move up and right to a thin crack just right of the arete. Climb this until a move left can be made to grooves in the face. Follow these, and the arete right of the overhang, to the large tree and belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Loose blocks from middle of the route trundled on 11/8/12. Leaves a large resting ledge at half height. Probably no change in grade
Ticklists
Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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King Kong
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wintour's Leap)