This climb is in 27 logbooks, and on 70 wishlists.
Brilliant day out!, the route was in fantastic icy mixed condition till just above the niche, after this it was dry enough to climb in rock shoes. we overtook a very slow french team who were on thier second day on the face and trying to drytool it!. descended down the NE colouir which was quite involved and not particulary well equipped in the upper half. 14 hours bivvy to bivvy. brilliantGinger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 20/Mar/14 with irish john
Hidden - 2014
I wasn't climbing well, quite dehydrated - mistakenly thought we might get some easy water at Rognon bivi but took hours melting snow with crappy stove. Also poor conditions for 'summer' ascent, lots of snow; moving way too slowly so we escaped into the American direct (joining at the jammed block) by making 2 abs from the terraces at the niche.
nickdonohue - AltLd dnf - Sep/13 with Ian Bryant
Hidden - AltLd - 23/Aug/13
Hidden - Solo dnf - 2013
jcw - 2013
Big rock fall during the night while we bivied brought home the reality of a mountain falling apart. Turned back without touching the route
robpartridge - AltLd dnf - 11/Aug/12 with Emily Roo
Drew M - AltLd - Sep/11 with Fred Lyon
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 23/Aug/11
Thuggy, loose, long and awesome. Traversed to the grande dru and descended down ridge (se) to single bolt belay. 8/9 abbs mostly on single bolt belays down to charpoua glacier.
Dave Searle - 17/Aug/11 with ben
Hidden - AltLd - 12/Aug/11
Greg Boswell - AltLd - 05/Jul/11 with Ally Swinton
no bad route for the start of the season!
Ally Baba - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/11 with Greg Boswell
Hidden - 2011
tumbling wizard - Aug/10 with andrew marshall
blouise - 24/Aug/09 with alasdair buchanan
Hidden - 06/Aug/09
JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/09 with Jay Jackson
Brilliant route, managed to simul climb the entire thing, swapping leads every 150m. The whole route was very much in 'alpine mixed' comdition with verglass the whole way. Despite this motsly climbed in rock boos. Epic descent after Tom dropped the guidebook, so ended up abseiling blindly down the nw ridge, which took longer then the route. 9h to the tpop.
lukehunt - AltLd - 26/Jul/09 with Tom Ripley, Hamish Dunn
HamishD - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/09 with Luke Hunt, Tom Ripley
Pete Graham - AltLd - Jul/09 with Malcolm Scott
Hidden - AltLd - 06/Aug/08
with Pavel Bujakiewicz
michaelja - AltLd - Aug/91
shark - AltLd - 21/Aug/85 with Phill Dickens
Hit by block, broken fingers as moving into niche. Other attempts but seem destined not to do this route
David Smith - AltLd dnf - Jul/82 with Al Bennett
mark-abz - AltLd - Aug/81 with Walter P
Hidden - Aug/81
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, benclimbing, Tom Cox, Timothy Miller, Hidden, Joshua Willett, Alex_RhodesUK, Hidden, gavinpeach, Dan724, Hidden, Dougbart, Hidden, Adamski1986, Hidden, jennym32, williamsd79, LJC, Hidden, runninginclouds, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, benrigby, andyinglis, Hidden, Ross.Cooper, joeydurkin, azachariades, Sam Marks, dannyW, Alex90, James S, Microwired22, Chris Ellyatt, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, geoff.comley, Hidden, Hidden, M_W_Court, Hidden, Hidden, RKernan, Hidden, Hidden, Ben Briggs, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Alexandre Buisse, Hidden, mellardc, Hidden, Mr. K, Hidden, vincentvega, Hidden, Hidden, Oliver Sherman, Hidden, centurion05, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, cmsg, punj, Neil Adams, tom.e, JDSwain