Haute Savoie > Les Dru >
 
The North Face (Petit Dru)*** TD+

Adjacent Climbs
<< South West (Bonatti) Pillar (Petit Dru)
 
South face and SW ridge - Normal route & descent (Petit Dru) >>
850m. Classic '6 north faces' route. It's climbed by a succession of cracks, chimneys and diedres in a rather thuggish way. Ballerina moves learnt at the climbing wall are of no use here, and the grades will definitely feel harder. Dodgy route finding after the Niche. The first Quartz ledge doesn't traverse into the South ridge anymore. Decent bivouac site in the second quartz ledge a pitch from the top if in trouble.
Allain/Leininger 01/Aug/1935

Ticklists: Six classic alpine North Faces, Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 27 logbooks, and on 68 wishlists.

Brilliant day out!, the route was in fantastic icy mixed condition till just above the niche, after this it was dry enough to climb in rock shoes. we overtook a very slow french team who were on thier second day on the face and trying to drytool it!. descended down the NE colouir which was quite involved and not particulary well equipped in the upper half. 14 hours bivvy to bivvy. brilliant
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 20/Mar/14 with irish john

Hidden - 2014

I wasn't climbing well, quite dehydrated - mistakenly thought we might get some easy water at Rognon bivi but took hours melting snow with crappy stove. Also poor conditions for 'summer' ascent, lots of snow; moving way too slowly so we escaped into the American direct (joining at the jammed block) by making 2 abs from the terraces at the niche.
nickdonohue - AltLd dnf - Sep/13 with Ian Bryant

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Aug/13

Hidden - Solo dnf - 2013

jcw - 2013

Big rock fall during the night while we bivied brought home the reality of a mountain falling apart. Turned back without touching the route
robpartridge - AltLd dnf - 11/Aug/12 with Emily Roo

Drew M - AltLd - Sep/11 with Fred Lyon

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 23/Aug/11

Thuggy, loose, long and awesome. Traversed to the grande dru and descended down ridge (se) to single bolt belay. 8/9 abbs mostly on single bolt belays down to charpoua glacier.
Dave Searle - 17/Aug/11 with ben

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Aug/11

c'est bon
Greg Boswell - AltLd - 05/Jul/11 with Ally Swinton

no bad route for the start of the season!
Ally Baba - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/11 with Greg Boswell

Hidden - 2011

tumbling wizard - Aug/10 with andrew marshall

blouise - 24/Aug/09 with alasdair buchanan

Hidden - 06/Aug/09

JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/09 with Jay Jackson

Brilliant route, managed to simul climb the entire thing, swapping leads every 150m. The whole route was very much in 'alpine mixed' comdition with verglass the whole way. Despite this motsly climbed in rock boos. Epic descent after Tom dropped the guidebook, so ended up abseiling blindly down the nw ridge, which took longer then the route. 9h to the tpop.
lukehunt - AltLd - 26/Jul/09 with Tom Ripley, Hamish Dunn

HamishD - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/09 with Luke Hunt, Tom Ripley

Pete Graham - AltLd - Jul/09 with Malcolm Scott

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Aug/08

with Pavel Bujakiewicz
michaelja - AltLd - Aug/91

shark - AltLd - 21/Aug/85 with Phill Dickens

Hit by block, broken fingers as moving into niche. Other attempts but seem destined not to do this route
David Smith - AltLd dnf - Jul/82 with Al Bennett

mark-abz - AltLd - Aug/81 with Walter P

Hidden - Aug/81

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Tom Cox, Timothy Miller, Hidden, Joshua Willett, Alex_RhodesUK, Hidden, gavinpeach, Dan724, Hidden, Dougbart, Hidden, Adamski1986, Hidden, jennym32, williamsd79, LJC, Hidden, runninginclouds, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, benrigby, andyinglis, Hidden, Ross.Cooper, joeydurkin, azachariades, Sam Marks, dannyW, Alex90, James S, Microwired22, Chris Ellyatt, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, geoff.comley, Hidden, Hidden, M_W_Court, Hidden, Hidden, RKernan, Hidden, Hidden, Ben Briggs, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Alexandre Buisse, Hidden, mellardc, Hidden, Mr. K, Hidden, vincentvega, Hidden, Hidden, Oliver Sherman, Hidden, centurion05, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, cmsg, punj, Neil Adams, tom.e, JDSwain

Voting
Total votes cast 15
hard ED10 of 7
ED10 of 7
easy ED10 of 7
hard TD+0 of 7
TD+6 of 7
easy TD+0 of 7
hard TD1 of 7
TD0 of 7
easy TD0 of 7
3 Stars7 of 8
2 Stars1 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 27 (3.7%)
Alt Leads18 of 27 (66.7%)
Unknown8 of 27 (29.6%)

'Climbed'18 of 27 (66.7%)
clean O/S4 of 27 (14.8%)
dnf5 of 27 (18.5%)