850m. Classic '6 north faces' route. It's climbed by a succession of cracks, chimneys and diedres in a rather thuggish way. Ballerina moves learnt at the climbing wall are of no use here, and the grades will definitely feel harder.
Dodgy route finding after the Niche.
The first Quartz ledge doesn't traverse into the South ridge anymore.
Decent bivouac site in the second quartz ledge a pitch from the top if in trouble.

Allain/Leininger 01/Aug/1935

Ticklists: Six classic alpine North Faces, Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

ndraper1 15/Apr -

Touched the start at a leisurely 12:30 and bivied at the windy grand platform around 8pm after being bullied by the chimneys and fissure lambert. The following day resulted in a bit more bullying and challenging route finding near the summit so took a second bivi at the 'hole' to the south face. We traversed round (2pitches) and climbed about 100m vertical to gain the long awaited summit. Descending was straightforward to the Drus Couloir and was pretty well equipped(would have been faster if there wasn't 6 teams in it!). Hiking up the Lapin couloir back to GM was exhausting in the heat of the day, but we scoffed enough snow to make the last service lift down with minutes to spare!

wi11 23/Mar AltLd dnf

Hideously off route. Winter conditions

Ginger McGrath 20/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant day out!, the route was in fantastic icy mixed condition till just above the niche, after this it was dry enough to climb in rock shoes. we overtook a very slow french team who were on thier second day on the face and trying to drytool it!. descended down the NE colouir which was quite involved and not particulary well equipped in the upper half. 14 hours bivvy to bivvy. brilliant

with irish john
Hidden ??/2014 -
alasdair19 ??/2014 -
nickdonohue ?/Sep/13 AltLd dnf

I wasn't climbing well, quite dehydrated - mistakenly thought we might get some easy water at Rognon bivi but took hours melting snow with crappy stove. Also poor conditions for 'summer' ascent, lots of snow; moving way too slowly so we escaped into the American direct (joining at the jammed block) by making 2 abs from the terraces at the niche.

with Ian Bryant
Hidden 23/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden ??/2013 Solo dnf
robpartridge 11/Aug/12 AltLd dnf

Big rock fall during the night while we bivied brought home the reality of a mountain falling apart. Turned back without touching the route

Drew M ?/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden 23/Aug/11 AltLd dnf
Dave Searle 17/Aug/11 -

Thuggy, loose, long and awesome. Traversed to the grande dru and descended down ridge (se) to single bolt belay. 8/9 abbs mostly on single bolt belays down to charpoua glacier.

with ben
Hidden 12/Aug/11 AltLd
Greg Boswell 05/Jul/11 AltLd

c'est bon

Ally Baba 05/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

no bad route for the start of the season!

with Greg Boswell
Hidden ??/2011 -
tumbling wizard ?/Aug/10 -
with andrew marshall
blouise 24/Aug/09 -
with alasdair buchanan
Hidden 06/Aug/09 -
JonHarvey 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
lukehunt 26/Jul/09 AltLd

Brilliant route, managed to simul climb the entire thing, swapping leads every 150m. The whole route was very much in 'alpine mixed' comdition with verglass the whole way. Despite this motsly climbed in rock boos. Epic descent after Tom dropped the guidebook, so ended up abseiling blindly down the nw ridge, which took longer then the route. 9h to the tpop.

with Tom Ripley, Hamish Dunn
HamishD 26/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Luke Hunt, Tom Ripley
Pete Graham ?/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 06/Aug/08 AltLd
michaelja ?/Aug/91 AltLd

with Pavel Bujakiewicz

shark 21/Aug/85 AltLd
with Phill Dickens
uphillnow ?/Jul/82 AltLd dnf

Hit by block, broken fingers as moving into niche. Other attempts but seem destined not to do this route

with Al Bennett
mark-abz ?/Aug/81 AltLd
with Walter P
Nevil ?/Aug/81 -
with Chris
Steve Bell ??/1977 -
jcw ??/1974 -

Final route of a fortnights climbing: Couturier, Gervasitti couloirs, route Major, N Ridge of Dent Blanche and the Dru

with Martin Harris
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