Rockfax Description
The steep, 'forked lightning' crack. Start below the crack.
Move up ledges to beneath the crack and then climb it with conviction. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Kernow, Very good routes in the UK, West Country Climbs.

Hamish777 11/Oct Lead O/S

The memories of this route will stay with me for a long time! After almost falling off twice I somehow struggled to the top. The route is well protected as long as you have some big cams. However the offwidth jamming was horrid and caused a massive pump as a faffed around every single move, it took every ounce of my strength to move up. Zig Zag...I ain't doing this one again, at least not for a long time. Utterly brilliant.

with Lloyd Harris
ianburton 04/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug 2nd rpt
Sophie Nunn 31/Aug Lead O/S
AEH 08/Aug 2nd RP
with Christian Mertes
Matt Harmon 06/Aug Lead β

belayed anna up it before sending sam up to second and leading it myself. first HVS outside the peak

Sarah Roscoe 05/Aug 2nd
Anna duckett ?/Aug Lead
with Sam Huguet
cols1982 23/Jul Lead dog

My first HVS :) Pretty strenuous, but loved every second. Also had my first lead fall! Will be back next year for a clean ascent...

with Christopher Duque-Smith
lukegorman 18/Jun Lead rpt

2nd'ed joe up it before. quality route. felt very solid on it with arms deep in the cracks

with Darren Pyke
Hidden 18/Jun 2nd O/S
RogelioM 16/Jun 2nd
Hidden 11/Jun TR O/S
Sam Hunt 10/Jun Lead O/S
with Jonny Cheetham
Mark Chevassut 09/Jun Lead O/S
with Owen Diba
omaskrey 07/Jun 2nd O/S
twill 07/Jun Lead O/S
annep11 04/Jun Lead O/S

Gripping! Upper crack was very baggy/offwidth for my smallish hands and a real struggle. Doubles of large cams would be helpful.

alex toomey 04/Jun 2nd
with anne peale
Owen Diba ?/Jun Lead RP
CraigOsborne ?/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May Lead
Lizard Ollie 26/May 2nd O/S

What a route!

ian d f 25/May Lead O/S

I'm glad I can jam!

Hidden 25/May 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May 2nd
guy757 18/Apr -
Hidden 06/Apr 2nd dog
pearson9596 ??/2015 2nd O/S
Owen Diba ??/2015 2nd O/S
JoeCoxson 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

My arms are scratched, my legs are bleeding, and I'll probably have a couple of nightmares, but no falls or rests! The guide book said climb the crack 'with conviction', I thought it was more like 'with pain, sweat and burly jamming', but tomato tomato. The climbing is as good as it looks, if you can jam. Luke didn't look like he enjoyed it...

tobydunford 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 20/Sep/14 Lead dog
fulton333 20/Sep/14 2nd
whiteexplorer 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S


with joe
dready 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/14 -
Hidden ?/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 17/Jul/14 -
Hidden 05/Jul/14 2nd
steve-grigg 19/Jun/14 Lead
Tom McCabe 19/Jun/14 2nd O/S

James led. It has ALL the awkward jams!!

with Chris Bowden, James Thompson
kyaizawa 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Felt soft for an HVS jamming crack, but I suppose it depends on what you're used to and what size your jams are!! However, it's definitely 3 star, if not Top 50.

stalbot93 19/Jun/14 2nd O/S
helen.baldwin 19/Jun/14 2nd O/S
BLodge 19/Jun/14 2nd
Emma Reynolds 18/Jun/14 2nd O/S
maddy92 17/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 17/Jun/14 2nd O/S
JonnyW 15/Jun/14 Lead β

Sort of beta. Joe led half and placed some gear but couldn't finish so pulled the ropes I led the full route. As awesome as the line looks!

joem 15/Jun/14 2nd
with JonnyW
hotfeet 11/Jun/14 Lead
Lumbering Oaf 09/Jun/14 2nd dog

Great climb. Left foot slipped on transit into wide vertical crack beneath uppermost niche.

manbat 09/Jun/14 Lead O/S

What a great route. Was happy with my lead. Some challenging moves, but moved up it steadily enough. Very protectable, mainly hexes and cams (take a number 4 or 5, if you have one, for the upper zag!).

Tom Seccombe 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Louise Street
Hidden 05/Jun/14 2nd β
Hidden 04/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Nevil 20/Apr/14 Lead
with Vince
Vincej 19/Apr/14 2nd
Tom D ??/2014 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/13 2nd
bpmclimb 27/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Awkward short off-width crack at about 2/3 height, needed arm bars to get up it.

with Clare
PilarMartinez 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with TheCherokee
ian coe 03/Aug/13 2nd

Lead by Richard Pollard. Was great fun :-)

Steve Lenartowicz 09/Jul/13 Lead
with Clare
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Tim W 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
partz 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Great, varied climbing!

Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Alex Wade 09/Jun/13 2nd
joem 09/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Frances Bensley 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Montecore 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Hard and scary - thought I was going to pop off at the crux but managed to cling on and haul myself up it

with Ben Simpkins
Rob84 25/May/13 2nd rpt
with Roy (Netherlands)
Rob84 23/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jeremy
morganator 16/May/13 2nd


with International Meet Guest
perranman 07/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Alan Dovey
aostaman 07/Apr/13 Lead β
Hidden 05/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Spearos 01/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with Riggo
onlyfoddington 31/Mar/13 2nd O/S

Really sustained. Got so pumped in voiding any real fist jams.

with Steve R
stevorobs3 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Ed morris 16/Feb/13 2nd
with Colin
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
AMJ098 ??/2013 TR dog
George Nichols 20/Nov/12 2nd

Steep and thuggy. Great fun, look forward to leading it.

with Jim, Catherine McElligot
Stroppy 28/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Sooo much fun, got myself into an awkward poisiton in the niche. Really enjoyed the fist jam and later the lay-back moves.

with Sky Lee Si Kai
clipskipper 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ed Babington
Stone Muppet 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Paz
Merrick796 08/Aug/12 Lead
Luxulyan ?/Aug/12 TR
with Tom Murrell
Jen Crook 26/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 26/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 28/Jun/12 Lead O/S
tgeh 28/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with dan geh
Dan Geh 28/Jun/12 Lead O/S

lovely fist jams!

Neil D 27/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Tom Codrington, Beth Hodgett
Betha. 27/Jun/12 2nd dog
with Tom C, Neil D
tcn_2002 26/Jun/12 Lead
tgeh 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Liam
Carter 24/Jun/12 2nd dog
mark88 04/Jun/12 Lead
with Paul Millen
Hidden ?/Jun/12 2nd dog
Peter Reynolds ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
SamChessell 29/May/12 2nd O/S
John Tanner 27/May/12 Lead O/S

Awesome thuggish fun

gidmord 27/May/12 2nd O/S
with John Tanner
Dilwat 19/May/12 Lead O/S
with Nick
nickdonohue ?/May/12 2nd

Have led in past but tough to 2nd! (at wide bit). large cams useful! (e.g. 2 x no. 4s if available!)

Hidden 06/Apr/12 2nd rpt
Pete Graham ?/Apr/12 2nd
with Rick Graham
gg4419 ?/Apr/12 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Mar/12 TR dog
jakenichol 24/Mar/12 Lead

Probable wasn't best route to warm up on. Great climbing though

arandall 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Glen Jackson, Wendy Matthews
Wendy Watthews 24/Mar/12 2nd
with Glen, arandall
Dave Heaton 24/Mar/12 2nd
with Jake Nichol
eddy-on-the-rocks 13/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Down jacket ascent.

with P Dawg
wojt ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Solo O/S
janegallwey ??/2012 Lead
manbat 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Great route!!!

spragglerocks 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Lumbering Oaf 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Sweaty work.

sprout3099 02/Sep/11 -
with Stu Spencer, Becky Wood
climbing son 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Jacob Forshaw 02/Sep/11 2nd
Andy Mathers 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Amazoniangirl 01/Sep/11 -
icTris 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Lisa
Rob Pitt 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Helen Pitt
gingerwolf 05/Jul/11 2nd O/S
wild_nomad 21/Jun/11 2nd O/S

A real fight and a good test to see how the jamming technique is coming on. Belay Alan.

Helen Gibson 21/Jun/11 Lead

lovely climb, interesting moves.

thetradlad 16/Jun/11 -

seconded 5/6 of the first pitch with a spot of aid for the last 1/6. top roped second pitch...

Harry Thorpe 16/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Incoming tide, Jake got wet, had to set up a belay mid route to bring him up. Bit of an epic!

Hidden ?/Jun/11 2nd
liamoloughlin 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
mattshort 22/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Phil Porter
AliciaHarrison ??/2011 2nd O/S
james999 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Jacob k-d 03/Oct/10 Lead β
Bobby Gilbert 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Dan from St Ives, Heather Clark
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead
Jim Slater 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Becky E 27/Aug/10 2nd dog

In at the deep end! A skin shredding introduction to Cornish granite.

mattyork2 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
tomB 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Juliette
mikeyg 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/10 2nd
raku 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Beata Rakowska
theotherpetehill 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
chrisallan 13/Jun/10 2nd dog
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
Hidden 13/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S
dan gibson 09/Apr/10 2nd
with michael porter
mattshort 04/Apr/10 2nd
Dave89 ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Dan, Matt
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Gigga ??/2010 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 13/Sep/09 2nd
with Lee Bartrop
Rob Davies 01/Sep/09 Lead

Walked past this for years but it turned out to be pleasantly straightforward - steep with great jams

with Phil Ashton
Hidden 11/Aug/09 Lead
TonyB 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Anni
AnniH 09/Aug/09 2nd dog
with Tony B
M Bryan ?/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Tom Grant
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Lead
Gareth T 13/Jun/09 TR
with Ruben
Laurence Everitt 11/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Mark D
JCB42 11/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Gareth Clendinning
Mark D 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S
gnc760 10/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Phil Pavey
Hidden 10/Jun/09 2nd dog
Grabtheslab 10/Jun/09 Lead
Subwaycups 08/Jun/09 2nd dog
Hidden 03/Jun/09 2nd O/S
willjh 03/Jun/09 2nd O/S

A brilliant route!

with David Spencer and matt
mattcyp88 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead O/S
lrandall ?/May/09 2nd
with Alan D
DSM 17/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Protected with wires only (Friends left at home).

with Paul Dearden
ashskett 03/Apr/09 TR O/S
with Craig
Master Chief 19/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Rusty2406 19/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Tom and Jeremy
jgclimb 19/Mar/09 Lead
with nick tom
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd
lukehodson 27/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Al Franks 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Liz and Luke
Alasdair88 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Luke hodson, Liz davies
lizzie789 27/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Fenwick ?/Jul/08 -
deverett 16/Jun/08 2nd β
jfreeman 07/Jun/08 Lead rpt
simonr 07/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
ieverett ?/Jun/08 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd
alexharv3y 24/May/08 2nd rpt
with Toby
gb83 10/May/08 2nd dog

awkward arm bars up the main cracks-too big for hands-too small for fists

with m.sakano
masa-alpin 10/May/08 Lead O/S

Harder than it appeared, and steep towards the top. And interesting moves. Great route! 3 star!

mol 04/May/08 2nd
with Jesse
Jesse Dufton 04/May/08 Lead
jonka ?/May/08 2nd
with sean
Mike W ?/May/08 Lead
with cat
Geoffers ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Tim
bpmclimb 08/Apr/08 Lead rpt
with Clare
Docent 23/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with stecu
dewrats ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Oli Boyes Chris Barr
sharmawho? ??/2008 Lead O/S
with oli, chris
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
ellentaylor 27/Sep/07 2nd
adamscottthomas 27/Sep/07 Lead dog

1 rest. Amazing line, rather unpleasant climbing though.

Hidden 14/Sep/07 2nd dog
jon bradley 08/Sep/07 Lead rpt

A bit butch - the hangover didn't help.

with Huw Howells
The_Boy_ODwyer 15/Jun/07 2nd
with Gab
stuwelly85 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Beck Holland
Beck Holland 09/Jun/07 2nd rpt
with stu llewelyn
jfreeman ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Steve Rigler
inspiration_needed ?/Jun/07 2nd dog

Fell once

with Mat
Neil Adams 18/May/07 Lead dog

Crack was soaking wet so I took a little slip, otherwise clean despite drizzle & spray.

with Bez
deverett 02/May/07 TR O/S
with Claire Everett
feilx 21/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Dan_Carroll 10/Apr/07 Lead rpt

Uber classic.

with Rebecca Holland
Beck Holland 10/Apr/07 2nd RP
twodada 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Rich Barnes
jchenoweth 05/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Ed Babs ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Kate
Tim Steward 15/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Helen Alderson
mooseloose 02/Jun/06 2nd dog

Thuggish but well protected, good lead by Jana. My birthday present (much appreciated). Uses most body parts for jamming. Laughed like a mad fool when I topped out.

with Jana
Rob Laird 01/May/06 Lead dog
hailtryfan ?/Apr/06 2nd
with Rob Laird
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
jmhood ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Tall Tom
Hidden ??/2006 -
max_chan ?/Aug/05 Lead dog
with Steinar
crossdressingrodney 23/Jun/05 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 29/Apr/05 -
Jez 24/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV ??/2005 Lead O/S

only day climbing of what was a superb surfing/boozing holiday in cornwall. Got on this route just in time before it got cut off. (got splashed whilst getting onto the starting ledge) great route. employed offwidth techniques honed on gritstone with the waves crasing in at the base of the route. brilliant.

with Dan Holdsworth
paul m hadley ??/2005 Solo
johnboyrevel ?/Aug/04 Lead
with Faye
AngelaC 19/Jun/04 2nd
bpmclimb 11/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Clare
alex_th ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Tim Riley
alexharv3y 01/Jul/03 Lead O/S

First HVS

Urgles ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Laura
Hidden 29/Mar/02 2nd
rockjedi12345 ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Matt Bradley
Hidden ??/2002 2nd O/S
Mark Kemball 20/Oct/01 Lead
with Nic Dill
Hidden 02/Sep/01 Lead O/S
rockjedi12345 ?/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Ian Stocker
Hidden ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/01 Lead
pezzerrr 27/Jun/01 Lead O/S
andybenham ??/2001 Lead dog

One msall rest on rope as I got foot stuck in the crack moving into final niche

with Ben Townend
Roget 16/Sep/00 Lead O/S
with jon
Rob Oram 25/Aug/00 2nd O/S

Bloody crack climb, very difficult even seconding!

with Dave Frusher
jfletcher 01/Jul/00 Lead
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
NickP ??/2000 -
rockjedi12345 ?/Sep/99 Lead O/S
with Phil Mathews
nickdonohue 10/Aug/99 Lead
with Richard Jasicki
Just Another Dave ??/1999 Lead O/S
andyfeds ??/1997 Lead

My first every HVS :-)

with Paul H
craig h 23/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
andy_pemberton ?/Jun/96 Lead

+ Fat Matt!

Ashley Hold 08/May/95 Lead
with Damian Jaques, Phil McCreedy
colin milton 29/Apr/95 Lead dnf

tiring had me well beat

with eric milton
leland stamper ??/1995 AltLd O/S
with rich anderson
John Southworth ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Apr/91 Lead
with noj
sdht ??/1991 -
Raggar ??/1991 2nd
with Steve B
Mike Owen 30/Aug/89 -
with Chris Craggs
beaumap 22/Jul/89 AltLd
with Tim Waddington
Hidden ?/Jul/88 2nd O/S
Nigel Coe 23/May/87 Lead
with Norman Wright
Hidden ?/Mar/87 -
keefe ??/1985 -
Nigel Coe ??/1985 -
with Dave Kyle, Steve Portnoi
Richard Weller 06/May/84 Lead
with Jerry Luntley
andy tetsill ?/May/84 Lead
with Manchester Poly, Joy
Nic Robinson 06/May/80 Lead O/S
with Mike Chapman
Chris Terrey ?/Apr/80 Lead
with Mike Quantrell
babymoac 18/Jun/78 -
Hidden ??/1978 -
Dave Musgrove 08/Jun/77 Lead
Nigel Bond 10/Apr/74 Lead
with Alan
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
GrahamHP, Hidden, Mayo, Maywood96, Hidden, Hidden, iksander, SurferStan, Dave192939, johnpr, NeilOMalley, aljezurusrf08, Hidden, nickstephens, Alan100, Hidden, andymoin, Hidden, Phoebe, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, JackMountains, maresia
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 58
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 54
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set