My 2nd E3. Quite intense and not over until its over! Had a few scary slips along the way but lots of positive handholds, if a little thin.dprctr - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Robert Dufton
This route had been on mind ever since I visited a whole year ago, August 2012. Back then, at the end of the day, Jon and I had eyed it up and decided it was definitely on - but that was after we'd packed up, with the security of knowing we weren't about to get on it. Since the club planned our return trip to Baggy, back in January, It's been on my mind that I had a date with the Terrapin, so long as conditions were good. Come the day, they could hardly have been better, so I had no excuse. Seconding Lost Horizon and No Sweat were the perfect warm-up. The whole time I kept glancing over at the Terrapin. Every time I thought about it, the fear crept in: did I really want to be up there, way above gear, on thin creaky flakes and tenuous smears? I tried not to think about it. Then it was my turn to lead and no avoiding it any longer. I popped up the first move and placed a small cam, then came back down and tied on. A few metres away people were queuing up for Shangri-La. Climber number six, please. But I felt completely alone. I visualised the first sequence, to the top of the pillar, and began. The fear evaporated and my focus was total - I was fixated on the route. My mind saw it as a series of sequences, between the relative safety of the horizontal breaks. I had told myself there'd be good gear in each break but I found it really hard to get a solid nut. Dodgy-looking brass offsets and a micro cam, then focus, look up, see the sequence, stay calm, breathe easy, and move. Step softly. Pull down on the flakes but don't prise them outwards. Then the peg, the Terror Pin, full stretch and then some. Breathe again but don't stop too long, strike out up the faint line of diminishing flakes and hope I reach the last break before they run out. Finally the vertical finish crack and some solid gear, but a couple of testing moves still to go - no, don't fluff it now! sheer will gets me to the top, a final mantel to elation. The rat has been fed again.
ripper - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with jon gill
a fantastic route,but definitely not one to fall off!
jon_gill1 - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with john ripley
rd20 - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with David P
mctinkno - 2nd - 03/Jul/13 with Burton
burto - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/13 with ferdia
Awesome, mainly because its huge.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Colin
Hidden - 2013
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/10
Led first in late 80s. Serious with a fair bit of lichen/vegetation these days. More like E4 5b/c and don't fall off.
Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/10 with Martin Doyle
Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/10
feilx - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/09 with Heather
Hidden - TR O/S - 14/Sep/08
Current line seems nonnegotiable for lichen and vegetation at the moment - took a parallel line about 10/15ft to the left, prob about E4 5c. Took over an hour to lead!
alaan - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Pete
petellis - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Alaan
The Pylon King - 2nd O/S - Jul/07 with Fiend
Mark Kemball - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/06 with Stu Bradbury
With a direct finish at E4 5b/c. Quite bold.
Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Gus Hudgins
Hidden - Lead dog - 2004
Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - Apr/95 with Karin Siemund
Hidden - 2nd O/S - Feb/94
Hidden - TR - 23/Nov/92
Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/90
andy gittins - Lead - 1990
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1988 with Emily
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/85
shark - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/84 with Bruce Woodley
mark-abz - TR - 05/Apr/81 with Lionell
Hidden - 1980
turnerk - 1976