Cornwall > Lower Sharpnose Point >
 
Mascon** E1 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< A Handful of Rust
 
Village Idiot >>
[Mascon. Lower Sharpnose., 2 kb]Sustained and strenuous crack-climbing in an outrageous position. Start at a crack-system 3m left of the seaward arete. 30m. Follow the crack-system to a large ledge and an optional belay. Make a tricky traverse left from the ledge across the face to a long vertical crack. Follow the widening crack all the way to the top taking care with a couple of rickety holds. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Mascon. Lower Sharpnose. © Mike W
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 75 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Mark Kemball - Lead - 14/Oct/12 with Lee Bartrop

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/12

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Mick Ward

Two pitches
Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/11 with Tom Coombe

nroyal - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/11

chris ebbutt - Lead - 15/Oct/11 with Nick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 01/Sep/11 with michael porter

soph - Lead O/S - Sep/11 with Helena Robinson

Abbed to the ledge as tide was in. More like HVS 5b
mark20 - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11

CRiddiford - 2nd - 30/Aug/11 with Mark

V greasy. Good gear.
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with CarolineH

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11

TommityP - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/May/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/May/11

Fultonius - Lead O/S - 24/May/11 with Burnsie

Ross Barnes - Lead - 24/May/11 with Mal

The crux is the traverse from the ledge to the crack using a very small pocket for both hands. The left of the pocket feels good, but the right feels rubbish. This is not helpful when you have to let go with the left hand to reach for anything at the side of the crack. By this time is was pumped due to the steepness of the climb, and fell to the base of the crack. I was then so pumped a fell a few other times and rested whilst trying to reach the top via the large crack. At the top thankfully there were larger holds for my lifeless fingers!
Legs - 2nd dog - 30/Apr/11 with Macca

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11

climbingpixie - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11

Gigga - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with shorty83

Onion - 2nd - 20/Mar/11 with Giles W

Rory Shaw - 2011

Pretty bold feeling traverse... Never difficult though. Still can't remember if i've ever got up a crack elegantly!?
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/10 with J

Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Sep/10

Mike W - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10

feilx - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Heather

Chris_barr - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Simon

Worth seeking out. A sustained lower crack leading to a bold(ish) feeling traverse and a long but easy finishing crack.
lrandall - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Max Adamson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10

msoldn - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Jason

Pbclimbing.com - 31/Jul/10 with henry castle

Awkward traverse but oodles of gear and jugs. Did it in 2 pitches as tide was cutting off Misha's belay island and he did not fancy the swim.
philhilo - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with misha

A memorable experience. We were racing against the incoming tide to get another route done (at least we had left the bay between the North and Middle Fins just before it got cut off). I belayed off a boulder as Phil made short work of the initial crack. Managed to get onto the climb without getting my feet wet - just in time as the belay boulder had pretty much turned into an island by the time I got to the ledge! Phil finished the route from there.
Misha - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Phil

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Mike Hawkins

dave657 - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with paul b and mike

irish paul - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Dave Ripley

Very pumpy, really struggled, felt harder than E1
Mr Tickle - Lead dog - 23/May/09 with davenev

Very tough traverse followed by tough little crack upto the welcome rest spot - 5c?
davenev - 2nd dog - 23/May/09 with luke

Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/08 with Sue Hazel

existing debt - 2nd - 25/Jun/08 with Iain a

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 05/May/08 with Tommo

Starts well, but rock is a bit snappy in the top half - not as good as The Smile for instance at a similar grade...
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/08 with Emily

JasonG - Lead O/S - 2008 with Mal Dickson

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 23/Oct/07 with anna barnes

thought desered 5b. good climbing glad I got the arm bar rest 3/4 of the way up
Dale - AltLd O/S - Sep/07 with johny

Roger lead (his first E1 - woo!) and I seconded. Good climb, enjoyed!
mrtom - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Roger HSmith

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/07 with Ben

Pumpy. Traverse more like 5b but protected by a small cam
The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/07 with Fiend

First proper E1!! Fantastic route
riddle - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Tom Elliot

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/May/07

brian watson - Lead O/S - May/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

ecowaller - 2007

Hidden - 2007

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/06 with helen gibson

chris j - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/06 with Ben Bradford

gonggashan - 2nd - Jun/06

Steady. Greasy, but 5a.
Paz - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with TS

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2005

Boxy - Lead O/S - 31/May/03 with Mick

Billg - 2nd - 16/Jun/00 with Roy Ruddle

Tim M - 2000

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 04/Sep/99 with Roy Thomas

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/99

colin milton - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/95 with eric milton

GuySummers - Lead - 1995

Hidden - 1986

babymoac - Lead - 23/Aug/80 with MTW

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
RFWilkie, alexjz, francois, Dan Lane, Ropeboy, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, richardr, a_radiohead_fan

Voting
Total votes cast 60
hard E20 of 21
E20 of 21
easy E23 of 21
hard E12 of 21
E113 of 21
easy E11 of 21
hard HVS2 of 21
HVS0 of 21
easy HVS0 of 21
hard 5b0 of 20
5b0 of 20
easy 5b13 of 20
hard 5a6 of 20
5a1 of 20
easy 5a0 of 20
hard 4c0 of 20
4c0 of 20
easy 4c0 of 20
3 Stars9 of 19
2 Stars9 of 19
1 Star1 of 19
0 Stars0 of 19
Bag of .....0 of 19
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead42 of 75 (56.0%)
Followed20 of 75 (26.7%)
Alt Leads6 of 75 (8.0%)
Unknown7 of 75 (9.3%)

'Climbed'19 of 75 (25.3%)
clean O/S48 of 75 (64.0%)
clean rpt3 of 75 (4.0%)
clean RP1 of 75 (1.3%)
dogged3 of 75 (4.0%)
dnf1 of 75 (1.3%)