Rockfax Description
Sustained and strenuous crack-climbing in an outrageous position. Start at a crack-system 3m left of the seaward arete.
Follow the crack-system to a large ledge and an optional belay. Make a tricky traverse left from the ledge across the face to a long vertical crack. Follow the widening crack all the way to the top taking care with a couple of rickety holds. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

DredStripe 04/Oct Lead O/S
with D Harvey
chrisdevon 01/Sep 2nd O/S
with Jonathan Preston
Hidden 16/Aug Lead rpt
EmilyElouise 16/Aug 2nd O/S
Dan Vaj 03/Aug 2nd O/S
with Stu bradbury
Hidden 19/Jul Lead O/S
ChristyCole 19/Jul 2nd O/S
with Dan
ChristyCole 19/Jul 2nd O/S
with Dan
Hidden ?/Jul Lead O/S
manbat 20/May 2nd O/S

Great route, and better than the Smile, in my opinion. Slightly tricky (and damp) getting off the ground. Luke found the traverse thought-provoking, but I found it OK after finding the footholds. Great fun jamming/laybacking up the final crack.

with Luke Randall
Andy Moles 09/Apr Lead O/S
with James Oswald
James Oswald 09/Apr 2nd O/S

Hard for e1. Andy made a belay so we could escape the tide

with Andy Moles
nickdonohue 22/Mar 2nd
with Darcan, Nick Stephens
darcan 22/Mar 2nd
nickstephens 22/Mar Lead O/S
with Nick Donohue, Darcan
Jim Malo 19/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Stu
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
bigdrew 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Eve
Hidden 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
markfromstoke 01/Sep/14 2nd
with Pete H, Ian
ian d f 01/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Pete H, Mark
chris wyatt 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S

interesting traverse

with rich
RKirke 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Stroppy 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Had to retreat up the boulders as the tide was coming in at quite a pace. Good (quick) lead from Roger the Reach.

Alex the Alex 24/Aug/14 2nd
with Ed, Rog
1poundSOCKS 03/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

My first route at Sharpnose. I led P1, Rich led P2. Really good sustained climbing. I thought the crux was the traverse from the belay, but it isn't that hard and is well protected (a bit reachy though).

richiebongo 03/Aug/14 AltLd

2nd pitch

with Mat Coburn
Joel Perkin 22/Jul/14 2nd
with Simon Hammond
simonhammond1966 22/Jul/14 Lead dog

Took more rests on this than I care to remember! But at least the gear is good and plentiful. Actually a really good route, I should just learn not to go to Lower Sharpnose when I'm already knackered.

bigie bob 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S
francois 29/Jun/14 2nd

Solid lead by Chawn. The last move of the traverse is pretty balancy

with David coley, Chawn
Pippa 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
mountain_jay 15/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Alex the Alex 19/May/14 2nd
alastairbegley 16/May/14 Lead O/S

first section was soaking. The traverse was very exciting, and the end of it felt more like 5b.

with Julia Begley
Hidden 16/May/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 16/May/14 2nd
Luxulyan 04/May/14 2nd
with Tim
tim.fairhall 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Richard
Hidden ??/2014 2nd
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd dog
Lil_Pete 26/Sep/13 2nd
with Edd Wright
Graham Westbrook 05/Sep/13 2nd
Joughton 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Did this to get out at the end of the day, but did a stupid start (traversing the diagonal break from the left to reach the crack) because we didn't have the guidebook. The break runs out at the top so it felt more like sketchy E3 5c when combined with wet holds.

Matthew Robinson 17/Jul/13 2nd
with Luke S
Ed morris 26/May/13 2nd O/S

Raced up to the ledge to escape the tide. Some sub-par rock on this one.

with Colin
ejected ??/2013 -
Mark Kemball 14/Oct/12 Lead
with Lee Bartrop
Hidden 30/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Marti999 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Tom Seccombe 10/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Two pitches

with Tom Coombe
nroyal 15/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
chris ebbutt 15/Oct/11 Lead
with Nick
Hidden 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 01/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with michael porter
soph ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
mark20 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Abbed to the ledge as tide was in. More like HVS 5b

CRiddiford 30/Aug/11 2nd
with Mark
Bristoldave 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S

V greasy. Good gear.

dale1968 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Tom
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/May/11 2nd O/S
Fultonius 24/May/11 Lead O/S
with Burnsie
Ross Barnes 24/May/11 Lead
with Mal
Nick Wallis ?/May/11 Lead
with Laura
Legs 30/Apr/11 2nd dog

The crux is the traverse from the ledge to the crack using a very small pocket for both hands. The left of the pocket feels good, but the right feels rubbish. This is not helpful when you have to let go with the left hand to reach for anything at the side of the crack. By this time is was pumped due to the steepness of the climb, and fell to the base of the crack. I was then so pumped a fell a few other times and rested whilst trying to reach the top via the large crack. At the top thankfully there were larger holds for my lifeless fingers!

with Macca
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
climbingpixie 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Gigga 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with shorty83
Onion 20/Mar/11 2nd
with Giles W
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
andy dunn 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Pretty bold feeling traverse... Never difficult though. Still can't remember if i've ever got up a crack elegantly!?

with J
Hidden 22/Oct/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/Sep/10 2nd
Mike W 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
feilx 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
Chris_barr 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Simon
lrandall 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Worth seeking out. A sustained lower crack leading to a bold(ish) feeling traverse and a long but easy finishing crack.

Hidden 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S
msoldn 03/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Jason
Phil PBC 31/Jul/10 -
with henry castle
philhilo 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Awkward traverse but oodles of gear and jugs. Did it in 2 pitches as tide was cutting off Misha's belay island and he did not fancy the swim.

with misha
Misha 03/Jul/10 2nd O/S

A memorable experience. We were racing against the incoming tide to get another route done (at least we had left the bay between the North and Middle Fins just before it got cut off). I belayed off a boulder as Phil made short work of the initial crack. Managed to get onto the climb without getting my feet wet - just in time as the belay boulder had pretty much turned into an island by the time I got to the ledge! Phil finished the route from there.

with Phil
Ed Babs 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
irish paul 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Dave Ripley
Mr Tickle 23/May/09 Lead dog

Very pumpy, really struggled, felt harder than E1

with davenev
davenev 23/May/09 2nd dog

Very tough traverse followed by tough little crack upto the welcome rest spot - 5c?

with luke
Hidden 23/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/08 2nd
existing debt 25/Jun/08 2nd
with Iain a
Steerpike 05/May/08 Lead O/S
with Tommo
Chad123 20/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

Starts well, but rock is a bit snappy in the top half - not as good as The Smile for instance at a similar grade...

with Emily
JasonG ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Mal Dickson
dan gibson 23/Oct/07 Lead rpt
with anna barnes
Dale ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

thought desered 5b. good climbing glad I got the arm bar rest 3/4 of the way up

with johny
mrtom 26/Aug/07 2nd O/S

Roger lead (his first E1 - woo!) and I seconded. Good climb, enjoyed!

with Roger HSmith
eddy-on-the-rocks 06/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ben
Urgles 02/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Pumpy. Traverse more like 5b but protected by a small cam

with Fiend
riddle ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S

First proper E1!! Fantastic route

with Tom Elliot
brian watson 11/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with scott and gary
Hidden 06/May/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/07 Lead
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
ecowaller ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
dan gibson 25/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
chris j 09/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Bradford
gonggashan ?/Jun/06 2nd
with Dan Perrott
Paz ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S

Steady. Greasy, but 5a.

with TS
tuftynick ??/2005 Lead O/S
Boxy 31/May/03 Lead O/S
with Mick
Billg 16/Jun/00 2nd
with Roy Ruddle
Tim M ??/2000 -
goi.ashmore 04/Sep/99 Lead RP
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 12/Jun/99 AltLd O/S
colin milton 29/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with eric milton
Hidden 19/Apr/95 Lead
GuySummers ??/1995 Lead
Nigel Coe ??/1987 -
Steve Bell ??/1986 -
Chris Terrey 17/Apr/81 Lead
with Richard Langthorpe
babymoac 23/Aug/80 Lead
with MTW
Hidden 18/Jun/80 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Jack Wallace, Hidden, Lee_Meaden, dready, RFWilkie, alexjz, Dan Lane, Ropeboy, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, richardr, a_radiohead_fan
High E2
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High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
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High 4c
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Votes cast 32
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
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