Mascon** E1 5a
[Mascon. Lower Sharpnose., 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
Sustained and strenuous crack-climbing in an outrageous position. Start at a crack-system 3m left of the seaward arete.
Follow the crack-system to a large ledge and an optional belay. Make a tricky traverse left from the ledge across the face to a long vertical crack. Follow the widening crack all the way to the top taking care with a couple of rickety holds. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

Photo: Mascon. Lower Sharpnose. © Mike W
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 129 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

DredStripe - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/15 with D Harvey

chrisdevon - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/15 with Jonathan Preston

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Aug/15

EmilyElouise - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/15

Dan Vaj - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/15 with Stu bradbury

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/15

ChristyCole - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/15 with Dan

ChristyCole - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/15 with Dan

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/15

Great route, and better than the Smile, in my opinion. Slightly tricky (and damp) getting off the ground. Luke found the traverse thought-provoking, but I found it OK after finding the footholds. Great fun jamming/laybacking up the final crack.
manbat - 2nd O/S - 20/May/15 with Luke Randall

Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/15 with James Oswald

Hard for e1. Andy made a belay so we could escape the tide
James Oswald - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/15 with Andy Moles

nickdonohue - 2nd - 22/Mar/15 with Darcan, Nick Stephens

darcan - 2nd - 22/Mar/15

nickstephens - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/15 with Nick Donohue, Darcan

Jim Malo - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/14 with Stu

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14

bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Eve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/14

markfromstoke - 2nd - 01/Sep/14 with Pete H, Ian

ian d f - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/14 with Pete H, Mark

interesting traverse
chris wyatt - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/14 with rich

RKirke - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Alex T, Edward Hastrop

Had to retreat up the boulders as the tide was coming in at quite a pace. Good (quick) lead from Roger the Reach.
Stroppy - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Alex Thomson, Roger Kirke

Alex the Alex - 2nd - 24/Aug/14 with Ed, Rog

My first route at Sharpnose. I led P1, Rich led P2. Really good sustained climbing. I thought the crux was the traverse from the belay, but it isn't that hard and is well protected (a bit reachy though).
1poundSOCKS - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/14

2nd pitch
richiebongo - AltLd - 03/Aug/14 with Mat Coburn

Joel Perkin - 2nd - 22/Jul/14 with Simon Hammond

Took more rests on this than I care to remember! But at least the gear is good and plentiful. Actually a really good route, I should just learn not to go to Lower Sharpnose when I'm already knackered.
simonhammond1966 - Lead dog - 22/Jul/14 with Joel Perkin

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14

Solid lead by Chawn. The last move of the traverse is pretty balancy
francois - 2nd - 29/Jun/14 with David coley, Chawn

Pippa - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Jamie Thornley

mountain_jay - 2nd - 15/Jun/14 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14

Alex the Alex - 2nd - 19/May/14

first section was soaking. The traverse was very exciting, and the end of it felt more like 5b.
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 16/May/14 with Julia Begley

Hidden - Lead dnf - 16/May/14

Hidden - 2nd - 16/May/14

Luxulyan - 2nd - 04/May/14 with Tim

tim.fairhall - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Richard

Hidden - 2nd - 2014

Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/Oct/13

Lil_Pete - 2nd - 26/Sep/13 with Edd Wright

Graham Westbrook - 2nd - 05/Sep/13

Did this to get out at the end of the day, but did a stupid start (traversing the diagonal break from the left to reach the crack) because we didn't have the guidebook. The break runs out at the top so it felt more like sketchy E3 5c when combined with wet holds.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13

Matthew Robinson - 2nd - 17/Jul/13 with Luke S

Raced up to the ledge to escape the tide. Some sub-par rock on this one.
Ed morris - 2nd O/S - 26/May/13 with Colin

ejected - 2013

Mark Kemball - Lead - 14/Oct/12 with Lee Bartrop

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/12

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Mick Ward

Two pitches
Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/11 with Tom Coombe

nroyal - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/11

chris ebbutt - Lead - 15/Oct/11 with Nick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 01/Sep/11 with michael porter

soph - Lead O/S - Sep/11 with Helena Robinson

Abbed to the ledge as tide was in. More like HVS 5b
mark20 - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11

CRiddiford - 2nd - 30/Aug/11 with Mark

V greasy. Good gear.
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with CarolineH

dale1968 - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/May/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/May/11

Fultonius - Lead O/S - 24/May/11 with Burnsie

Ross Barnes - Lead - 24/May/11 with Mal

Nick Wallis - Lead - May/11 with Laura

The crux is the traverse from the ledge to the crack using a very small pocket for both hands. The left of the pocket feels good, but the right feels rubbish. This is not helpful when you have to let go with the left hand to reach for anything at the side of the crack. By this time is was pumped due to the steepness of the climb, and fell to the base of the crack. I was then so pumped a fell a few other times and rested whilst trying to reach the top via the large crack. At the top thankfully there were larger holds for my lifeless fingers!
Legs - 2nd dog - 30/Apr/11 with Macca

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11

climbingpixie - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11

Gigga - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with shorty83

Onion - 2nd - 20/Mar/11 with Giles W

Rory Shaw - 2011

Pretty bold feeling traverse... Never difficult though. Still can't remember if i've ever got up a crack elegantly!?
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/10 with J

Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Sep/10

Mike W - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10

feilx - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Heather

Chris_barr - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Simon

Worth seeking out. A sustained lower crack leading to a bold(ish) feeling traverse and a long but easy finishing crack.
lrandall - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Max Adamson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10

msoldn - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Jason

Phil PBC - 31/Jul/10 with henry castle

Awkward traverse but oodles of gear and jugs. Did it in 2 pitches as tide was cutting off Misha's belay island and he did not fancy the swim.
philhilo - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with misha

A memorable experience. We were racing against the incoming tide to get another route done (at least we had left the bay between the North and Middle Fins just before it got cut off). I belayed off a boulder as Phil made short work of the initial crack. Managed to get onto the climb without getting my feet wet - just in time as the belay boulder had pretty much turned into an island by the time I got to the ledge! Phil finished the route from there.
Misha - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Phil

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Mike Hawkins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09

irish paul - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Dave Ripley

Very pumpy, really struggled, felt harder than E1
Mr Tickle - Lead dog - 23/May/09 with davenev

Very tough traverse followed by tough little crack upto the welcome rest spot - 5c?
davenev - 2nd dog - 23/May/09 with luke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/08

existing debt - 2nd - 25/Jun/08 with Iain a

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 05/May/08 with Tommo

Starts well, but rock is a bit snappy in the top half - not as good as The Smile for instance at a similar grade...
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/08 with Emily

JasonG - Lead O/S - 2008 with Mal Dickson

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 23/Oct/07 with anna barnes

thought desered 5b. good climbing glad I got the arm bar rest 3/4 of the way up
Dale - AltLd O/S - Sep/07 with johny

Roger lead (his first E1 - woo!) and I seconded. Good climb, enjoyed!
mrtom - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Roger HSmith

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/07 with Ben

Pumpy. Traverse more like 5b but protected by a small cam
Urgles - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/07 with Fiend

First proper E1!! Fantastic route
riddle - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Tom Elliot

brian watson - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/07 with scott and gary

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/May/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

ecowaller - 2007

Hidden - 2007

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/06 with helen gibson

chris j - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/06 with Ben Bradford

gonggashan - 2nd - Jun/06

Steady. Greasy, but 5a.
Paz - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with TS

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2005

Boxy - Lead O/S - 31/May/03 with Mick

Billg - 2nd - 16/Jun/00 with Roy Ruddle

Tim M - 2000

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 04/Sep/99 with Roy Thomas

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/99

colin milton - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/95 with eric milton

Hidden - Lead - 19/Apr/95

GuySummers - Lead - 1995

Nigel Coe - 1987 with Gordon Jenkin

Steve Bell - 1986

Chris Terrey - Lead - 17/Apr/81 with Richard Langthorpe

babymoac - Lead - 23/Aug/80 with MTW

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/80

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jack Wallace, Lee_Meaden, dready, RFWilkie, alexjz, Dan Lane, Ropeboy, richardr, a_radiohead_fan

Total votes cast 93
hard E20 of 33
E20 of 33
easy E23 of 33
hard E15 of 33
E122 of 33
easy E11 of 33
hard HVS2 of 33
HVS0 of 33
easy HVS0 of 33
hard 5b0 of 32
5b5 of 32
easy 5b16 of 32
hard 5a7 of 32
5a4 of 32
easy 5a0 of 32
hard 4c0 of 32
4c0 of 32
easy 4c0 of 32
3 Stars11 of 28
2 Stars16 of 28
1 Star1 of 28
0 Stars0 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat
Clean RP