Great route, and better than the Smile, in my opinion. Slightly tricky (and damp) getting off the ground. Luke found the traverse thought-provoking, but I found it OK after finding the footholds. Great fun jamming/laybacking up the final crack.
manbat - 2nd O/S - 20/May/15 with Luke Randall
Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/15 with James Oswald
Hard for e1. Andy made a belay so we could escape the tide
James Oswald - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/15 with Andy Moles
nickdonohue - 2nd - 22/Mar/15 with Darcan, Nick Stephens
darcan - 2nd - 22/Mar/15
nickstephens - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/15 with Nick Donohue, Darcan
Jim Malo - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/14 with Stu
eel - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Andy J
bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Eve
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/14
markfromstoke - 2nd - 01/Sep/14 with Pete H, Ian
ian d f - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/14 with Pete H, Mark
chris wyatt - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/14 with rich
RKirke - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Alex T, Edward Hastrop
Had to retreat up the boulders as the tide was coming in at quite a pace. Good (quick) lead from Roger the Reach.
Stroppy - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Alex Thomson, Roger Kirke
Alex the Alex - 2nd - 24/Aug/14 with Ed, Rog
My first route at Sharpnose. I led P1, Rich led P2. Really good sustained climbing. I thought the crux was the traverse from the belay, but it isn't that hard and is well protected (a bit reachy though).
1poundSOCKS - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/14
richiebongo - AltLd - 03/Aug/14 with Mat Coburn
Joel Perkin - 2nd - 22/Jul/14 with Simon Hammond
Took more rests on this than I care to remember! But at least the gear is good and plentiful. Actually a really good route, I should just learn not to go to Lower Sharpnose when I'm already knackered.
simonhammond1966 - Lead dog - 22/Jul/14 with Joel Perkin
bigie bob - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14
Solid lead by Chawn. The last move of the traverse is pretty balancy
francois - 2nd - 29/Jun/14 with David coley, Chawn
Pippa - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Jamie Thornley
mountain_jay - 2nd - 15/Jun/14 with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/14
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14
Alex the Alex - 2nd - 19/May/14
first section was soaking. The traverse was very exciting, and the end of it felt more like 5b.
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 16/May/14 with Julia Begley
Hidden - Lead dnf - 16/May/14
Hidden - 2nd - 16/May/14
Luxulyan - 2nd - 04/May/14 with Tim
Hidden - 2nd - 2014
Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/Oct/13
Lil_Pete - 2nd - 26/Sep/13 with Edd Wright
Graham Westbrook - 2nd - 05/Sep/13
Did this to get out at the end of the day, but did a stupid start (traversing the diagonal break from the left to reach the crack) because we didn't have the guidebook. The break runs out at the top so it felt more like sketchy E3 5c when combined with wet holds.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13
Matthew Robinson - 2nd - 17/Jul/13 with Luke S
Raced up to the ledge to escape the tide. Some sub-par rock on this one.
Ed morris - 2nd O/S - 26/May/13 with Colin
ejected - 2013
Mark Kemball - Lead - 14/Oct/12 with Lee Bartrop
Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/12
Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Mick Ward
Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/11 with Tom Coombe
nroyal - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/11
chris ebbutt - Lead - 15/Oct/11 with Nick
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11
dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 01/Sep/11 with michael porter
soph - Lead O/S - Sep/11 with Helena Robinson
Abbed to the ledge as tide was in. More like HVS 5b
mark20 - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11
CRiddiford - 2nd - 30/Aug/11 with Mark
V greasy. Good gear.
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with CarolineH
dale1968 - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Tom
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/May/11
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/May/11
Fultonius - Lead O/S - 24/May/11 with Burnsie
Ross Barnes - Lead - 24/May/11 with Mal
Nick Wallis - Lead - May/11 with Laura
The crux is the traverse from the ledge to the crack using a very small pocket for both hands. The left of the pocket feels good, but the right feels rubbish. This is not helpful when you have to let go with the left hand to reach for anything at the side of the crack. By this time is was pumped due to the steepness of the climb, and fell to the base of the crack. I was then so pumped a fell a few other times and rested whilst trying to reach the top via the large crack. At the top thankfully there were larger holds for my lifeless fingers!
Legs - 2nd dog - 30/Apr/11 with Macca
Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11
climbingpixie - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Andy
Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11
Hidden - 2nd - 22/Apr/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11
Gigga - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with shorty83
Onion - 2nd - 20/Mar/11 with Giles W
Rory Shaw - 2011
Pretty bold feeling traverse...
Never difficult though.
Still can't remember if i've ever got up a crack elegantly!?
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/10 with J
Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Oct/10
Hidden - 2nd - 26/Sep/10
Mike W - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10
feilx - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Heather
Chris_barr - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Simon
Worth seeking out. A sustained lower crack leading to a bold(ish) feeling traverse and a long but easy finishing crack.
lrandall - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Max Adamson
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10
msoldn - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Jason
Phil PBC - 31/Jul/10 with henry castle
Awkward traverse but oodles of gear and jugs. Did it in 2 pitches as tide was cutting off Misha's belay island and he did not fancy the swim.
philhilo - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with misha
A memorable experience. We were racing against the incoming tide to get another route done (at least we had left the bay between the North and Middle Fins just before it got cut off). I belayed off a boulder as Phil made short work of the initial crack. Managed to get onto the climb without getting my feet wet - just in time as the belay boulder had pretty much turned into an island by the time I got to the ledge! Phil finished the route from there.
Misha - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Phil
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Mike Hawkins
Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09
irish paul - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Dave Ripley
Very pumpy, really struggled, felt harder than E1
Mr Tickle - Lead dog - 23/May/09 with davenev
Very tough traverse followed by tough little crack upto the welcome rest spot - 5c?
davenev - 2nd dog - 23/May/09 with luke
Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/08
existing debt - 2nd - 25/Jun/08 with Iain a
Steerpike - Lead O/S - 05/May/08 with Tommo
Starts well, but rock is a bit snappy in the top half - not as good as The Smile for instance at a similar grade...
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/08 with Emily
JasonG - Lead O/S - 2008 with Mal Dickson
dan gibson - Lead rpt - 23/Oct/07 with anna barnes
thought desered 5b. good climbing glad I got the arm bar rest 3/4 of the way up
Dale - AltLd O/S - Sep/07 with johny
Roger lead (his first E1 - woo!) and I seconded. Good climb, enjoyed!
mrtom - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Roger HSmith
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/07 with Ben
Pumpy. Traverse more like 5b but protected by a small cam
Pylon King Against Capit@lism - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/07 with Fiend
First proper E1!! Fantastic route
riddle - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Tom Elliot
brian watson - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/07 with scott and gary
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/May/07
Rob Kennard - 2007
ecowaller - 2007
Hidden - 2007
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/06 with helen gibson
chris j - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/06 with Ben Bradford
gonggashan - 2nd - Jun/06
Steady. Greasy, but 5a.
Paz - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with TS
tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2005
Boxy - Lead O/S - 31/May/03 with Mick
Billg - 2nd - 16/Jun/00 with Roy Ruddle
Tim M - 2000
goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 04/Sep/99 with Roy Thomas
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/99
colin milton - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/95 with eric milton
Hidden - Lead - 19/Apr/95
GuySummers - Lead - 1995
Nigel Coe - 1987 with Gordon Jenkin
Steve Bell - 1986
babymoac - Lead - 23/Aug/80 with MTW
Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/80