UKC

Restricted Access

Climbing on the monastery walls is strictly forbidden and there are old signs on approach indicating no climbing.

15m.

Rockfax Description
The squat slab is a micro-classic friction problem. Start below the thin right-curving seam. Move up to the seam and climb the slab just on its left to meet a wide horizontal break. Reach a jutting ledge in the bulging wall above and finish direct. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Up the slab to a small groove, then pull up and mantel to a standing position on the face before finishing direct. Long overgraded at E1 5b, now downgraded to HVS 5a in line with the comprehensive guide. Well protected with micros.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest

Feedback

User Date Notes
BuzyG 2 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 02/09/22. Finally made it up the slab. Say what you like about the grade, that is an E1 bagged. :) Tried this again 04/09/21. Got further than last time, but still not enough grip high on the slab for my feet. :( Cleared the gorse bushes from the top section of the climb. So a good day anyway.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 02/09/22. Finally made it up the slab. Say what you like about the grade, that is an E1 bagged. :) Tried this again 04/09/21. Got further than last time, but still not enough grip high on the slab for my feet. :( Cleared the gorse bushes from the top section of the climb. So a good day anyway.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Roche Rock

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 77
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 69
Votes cast 91
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wall and Groove

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Trewethet Cliff (North))

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