Cornwall > Roche Rock >
 
Lord Falmouth* HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Porky
 
Corner & Staircase >>
[Aproching Roche Rock, 3 kb]15m. Up the slab to a small groove, then pull up and mantel to a standing position on the face before finishing direct. Long overgraded at E1 5b, now downgraded to HVS 5a in line with the comprehensive guide. Well protected with micros.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Aproching Roche Rock © MGrock
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 314 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

sunny spring evening
chasingthelotus - TR rpt - 14/Apr/14 with looloo

Good / Bold lead from Chris
monkeytennis - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Faye, Matt Thorne, Chris Weight

chrisweight - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/14 with Faye Nunn, Andrew Hunt, Matt Thorne

fire_munki - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Andy Hunt, Chris Weight

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14

Nice evening session.
Tom Last - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/14 with Kurt

Skip - 2nd rpt - 30/Mar/14 with Paul

C Good - Lead rpt - 13/Mar/14 with Sam

Joel Perkin - Lead rpt - 11/Mar/14 with Mike Garret

Hidden - 2nd β - 22/Feb/14

arandall - Lead rpt - 19/Jan/14 with Ollie Maskrey, Dom

omaskrey - 2nd O/S - 19/Jan/14 with Alex Randall

foot smear
Dominic Taylor - 2nd O/S - 19/Jan/14

matt_read - 2nd O/S - 11/Jan/14

Hidden - Lead - Jan/14

jbclimb - 2nd - 2014 with Richard Hudson

Reminded me of 3 Pebble Slab at Froggat, that has the same grade debate ranging from VS to E1. I reckon HVS 5b is right....Trust your feet!
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/13 with Joel Perkin

Joel Perkin - 2nd - 29/Dec/13 with Dad

stephen ashworth - Lead - 30/Nov/13 with caroline blackmore

great climb, worth the HVS from a leader's point of view.
tracyclimber - Lead O/S - 29/Nov/13 with Graham Sullivan

Hidden - Lead - 16/Nov/13

payne93 - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/13 with simon young

SimonMarcYoung - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/13 with James Payne

Tarin Payne - TR O/S - 12/Oct/13 with Kyle Maywood

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Sep/13

Matt Amos - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - 01/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - 26/Aug/13

Great route, although not E1 by a long shot - possibly VS. The slab takes a good small cam at the break and micro wires in both cracks.
Merlin - Lead rpt - 26/Aug/13 with Polly Withers

timreynolds - TR - 25/Aug/13

Chappy - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/13

The starting slab was brilliant. All about the toe placements. Didn't have any micro wires so chucked a small cam in low down in the break for a bit of reassurance (dont think it would stop you decking out but may have slowed me down!)Easy climbing after the slab. Nice route.
snook - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13 with mark edwards

A Walker - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/13

Very nice route, can't wait to go back for the solo
Jackislav - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/13

chrisweight - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Jackislav

Matthew Robinson - Solo - 03/Aug/13

climbhannahclimb - Lead - 03/Aug/13 with Jack Gray

Good balance required, it will hurt if you deck it at the start so probably merit the E grade in my opinion, however after this it was fairly straight forward.
AndyF - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/13 with Ian G

Gavdee1 - TR - 27/Jun/13 with Kev

Kevster - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/13 with Lizzie, Gavin Dee

Hidden - TR - 08/Jun/13

Hidden - TR O/S - 08/Jun/13

Hidden - 08/Jun/13

Felt a bit unsure about leading it with just a micro to stop me decking, so retreated and top roped it instead. Should have lead it as was not that hard! Oh well!
BelayBunney - TR O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Catherine

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13

gingerking - Solo rpt - Jun/13

Hidden - 20/May/13

SteveoS - Lead β - 15/May/13 with Doug Miller

Hidden - Lead - 07/May/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/May/13

Jack J Keogan - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Lottie Thorne

a mind blowing climb, great feeling to get to the top of the slab. reletively easy from then on. slab all toes.
stuieb123 - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13

Lottie Thorne - 2nd dog - 06/May/13 with Jack J Keogan

Good route.A lot easier than I thought it would be.
Popkids - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Baz

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13

Binder - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13 with Dave J, JT

Hidden - Lead dog - 04/May/13

Merrick796 - Lead - May/13

Get your feet right then its good. HVS.
Joel Perkin - TR O/S - 30/Apr/13

C Good - Lead RP - 20/Apr/13

tc7118 - TR O/S - 18/Apr/13

M_Payne - 2nd - 02/Apr/13

john lynch - Solo O/S - 01/Apr/13

tfraser09 - 2nd O/S - Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/13

Ed morris - Solo rpt - 23/Mar/13 with Colin

Matthew Robinson - Solo - 17/Mar/13

jackc - TR O/S - 14/Feb/13 with matt rennie

Hidden - Lead - 02/Feb/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

sam0000 - Solo rpt - Dec/12

Maywood96 - TR O/S - 30/Nov/12

Decent slab start, ok juggy finish. Crux is unprotected but pretty low for E1.
George Nichols - Lead - 21/Nov/12 with Izzy

Hidden - TR - 19/Nov/12

first E1 according to guidebook
jackappleby - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12

Nearly got it, small slip on crux, damn!
Skip - 2nd dog - 16/Oct/12 with Cheese Monkey

E1 5a in my book, fall on the crux and pretty much guaranteed to deck. Good but committing
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/12 with Skip

Wendy Watthews - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/12 with arandall

arandall - Lead rpt - 06/Oct/12 with CUC Climbing Club

Fun slab, easy finish
Luxulyan - Lead β - Oct/12 with Kev Brown

Hidden - Lead - 19/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/12

s.scott - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with michelle.sangan

Mayo - Lead - 06/Sep/12

Danny_boulders - Lead O/S - Sep/12

Hidden - Solo O/S - 31/Aug/12

doddle on a top rope
en7edh - TR O/S - 30/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/12

Skipped the crux and climbed the crack but would like to go back and do the whole route.
lottiec - 2nd - 16/Aug/12 with Mikey P

crag_hopper_Jay - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/12 with Hannah Renshall

Dr Toph - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/12 with Emily

Velo Orange - 2nd - 13/Aug/12 with Toph

Mike Nolan - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Mike Clayton

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/12

samfayers - Lead β - 11/Jun/12 with Dunton

georgedunton - Lead β - 11/Jun/12 with Sam Fayers

aljezurusrf08 - 2nd dog - 02/Jun/12 with Willow

blackrose - TR O/S - 02/Jun/12

paddymitton - Lead - Jun/12

My first E1 lead :)
SurferStan - Lead O/S - 22/May/12 with Tom Monday

whiteexplorer - 2nd O/S - 22/May/12 with SurferStan

Dilwat - Lead rpt - 22/May/12 with Dave P

Ribbit - 2nd O/S - 21/May/12 with Ian

mbradberry2008 - Solo rpt - 20/May/12

Hidden - TR dnf - May/12

Westcorkman - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/12 with Bob Dawson

Chris_gowing - TR - 11/Apr/12

Felix Ottey - 2nd - 08/Apr/12

1906johns - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/12

soft E1, quite a surreal place to climb.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12 with Kit Perry

Fluttery at the start if lead. Slab-tastic
Chris Perry - 2nd - 01/Apr/12 with Matt Rust

sam0000 - Lead O/S - Apr/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Mar/12

JamesGibson - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/12 with ToddB

ToddB - 2nd - 26/Mar/12 with James

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12

Not particularly hard moves on slab, just committing.
Matt Smith - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Jack Fellows, Andy Patrick, Jen Jones

JoeMortimer_Trad - Lead - 13/Mar/12 with Alex Steele

Alex Steele - 2nd - 13/Mar/12 with Joe Mortimer

katiep - Lead rpt - 04/Mar/12 with Fiona Addie

ewanthomson - Lead O/S - 29/Feb/12 with Steve Salisbury

Spearos - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/12 with Mike

arandall - Lead rpt - 05/Feb/12 with Amber Thornton

tmather - Lead - 05/Feb/12 with George King

gingerking - Lead O/S - Feb/12 with Tom Simpson

gingerking - 2nd O/S - Feb/12 with Tom Mather

Lewis Stewart - 2nd - 23/Jan/12 with Cameron

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/12

cleaned onsight no prob
mike hooper - 2nd O/S - 07/Jan/12 with jobey martin

pretty soft in the grade!
Joby - Lead O/S - 07/Jan/12 with Mike Hooper

First E1 of the year after a lengthy break from outdoor climbing due to the FUCKING WEATHER.
thedoctorisin - Lead O/S - Jan/12

balancy and ground fall on the crux
jag - 2012 with steveo

wojtt - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - TR - 30/Dec/11

JordanH - Lead - 02/Dec/11 with Jack Castle

Geoboy - TR O/S - 21/Nov/11

Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/11 with tess mclaren

ripoffthemonkey - TR O/S - 08/Nov/11

paco - TR β - 07/Nov/11

need to improve style and footwork, felt a bit "scrappy"
oowhey000 - TR - 07/Nov/11

m296mux - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/11

Hidden - TR dog - Nov/11

J.Hine - 2nd - 25/Oct/11

Dave192939 - TR O/S - 15/Oct/11 with George King

arandall - TR O/S - 15/Oct/11

MGrock - Solo - 03/Oct/11

migs493 - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11

ollieben - 31/Aug/11 with harry henson

hazza - Lead O/S - Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11

SamChessell - 2nd rpt - 12/Jul/11

Got my smallest cam in fit in the crack on the slab tho would of still decked with it, still scary on slab, went a bit left after the slab move to place gear, then went back on course.
FragOcon - Lead β - 29/Jun/11

Tristan Sherlock - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11 with Tom Bunn

El3ctroFuzz - Solo rpt - 23/Jun/11

flyinfrenchy - Solo rpt - 19/Jun/11

Stepanek - Lead RP - 19/Jun/11

zard - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Chris Stepanek

First E1 onsight! Although felt soft at the grade, not much gear.
Chris Ellyatt - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Craig Potter

JonHarvey - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Jay Jackson

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 02/Jun/11

frank mckenna - 29/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/11

Hidden - 2nd - 16/May/11

SamChessell - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with Tom Mather

Seriously over-graded, I've done harder (and more serious) HSs. That said it is pretty good fun!
flyinfrenchy - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with gingerking

flyinfrenchy - 2nd rpt - 14/May/11 with gingerking

tmather - 2nd O/S - 14/May/11 with Samuel Chessell

amyb - 2nd - 12/May/11 with Rubber boy Kev

Bouldering8mad - Lead O/S - 11/May/11 with Hannah

climbhannahclimb - 2nd - 11/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/11

gingerking - Lead O/S - May/11 with Alex French

gingerking - 2nd O/S - May/11 with Alex French

leohl - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11

TommityP - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11

slipped on the slab!
dale1968 - 2nd dog - 29/Apr/11 with Tom

klimmer - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11

Matthew Robinson - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/11 with Gala

culmclimberRob - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/11 with adrian

Hidden - Solo β - 19/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Apr/11

DOVEY - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/11 with Jake.P+ Billie

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/11

SurfingRock - 2nd O/S - Apr/11

M govier - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with tom parsons

tom parsons - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Mike Govier

josh88 - 2nd - 23/Mar/11 with Craig marsden

Stan011 - 2nd - 23/Mar/11 with Craig Marsden

cmars89 - Lead - 23/Mar/11

mikespooner - Lead β - 19/Mar/11 with Will Fuller, Jack Westall

Will Fuller - 2nd β - 19/Mar/11 with Mike Spooner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/11

took one fall on the slab, 2nd time had it nailed.
PeteBall - 2nd dog - 08/Mar/11 with Carl

M govier - TR O/S - 07/Mar/11

Barbie - TR - 01/Mar/11 with Midge

I_hang_dog - Lead O/S - Mar/11

paddymitton - Mar/11

climbhannahclimb - TR O/S - Mar/11

climbhannahclimb - TR - Mar/11

titch133 - TR O/S - 28/Feb/11

very little handholds at start
Robin Hall - TR dog - 28/Feb/11 with titch133

titch133 - TR - 28/Feb/11

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/11 with Darren

Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11 with tj murry

Tj murray - Lead - 12/Feb/11 with Tom Seccombe

carlgodfrey - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11

Tj murray - 2011

stevorobs3 - Lead O/S - 2011

tim20 - 2011

mark_jee - TR - 2011 with Vicky

maybe E1 5a??? Just due to the hard move being in a scaryish position!!!!
mbradberry2008 - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/10 with Simon Allan

Gibbo - Lead rpt - 13/Nov/10 with Andy Strachan

Dave Heaton - Lead - 06/Nov/10

Leah gill - 26/Oct/10

Jordon Fleming - TR rpt - 19/Oct/10

Carl Johnson - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/10

Hidden - TR dnf - 11/Oct/10

JamesGibson - TR O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Jordon

Luuuuuke - Solo RP - 04/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/10

Really good. Commiting on lead.
andrea83 - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/10 with Pete

James Mitchelmore - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10

DreadyCraig - TR O/S - 10/Sep/10 with Sarah Hicks

Alex T (RAFMA) - 2nd - Sep/10 with Rimon

edpd1b - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with Kelly Hillyer

crag_monster - Lead - 31/Aug/10 with murphydave

crag_monster - Lead - 31/Aug/10 with murphydave

katiep - TR O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Adam Leveridge

Tom Downes - TR RP - 14/Aug/10

adamlevs - TR O/S - 14/Aug/10

Andyh83 - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/10 with Matt

Freddie 1 - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/10 with Andyh83

Great little confidence booster great first extreme.
jonnyridleylogan - Lead O/S - Aug/10

had a good days climbig
mike hooper - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10 with dave dean

extremejim - TR O/S - 05/Jul/10

Repeated the route several times using different moves. Very nice and delicate with more than one way to skin it.
Ali.B - Solo O/S - Jul/10

joeyj - TR - 13/Jun/10

Aided by guidance from Cornish Rock Tors Very interesting move using 45 crack below feet to provide pressure to be able to crouch-walk up crack. Balance critical - almost lost it.
TerribleToll - TR β - 01/Jun/10

ParkFace - TR - Jun/10 with Ben Mayo

jakenichol - Lead - 23/May/10

haylow - 2nd - 23/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/May/10

Harry Webdale - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/10

mtom91 - Lead - 03/Mar/10

nice route, happy to have lead it.
TheLegoMan - Lead RP - 19/Feb/10

Tom Downes - TR RP - 2010

Heavy rain and wind...practised belay techniques.
nick_curtis01 - TR dnf - 12/Nov/09 with Manor House Activity Centre

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09

Makes an awesome solo. Link This And Traverse into "Porky" for a Sick Variation!
El3ctroFuzz - Solo rpt - 03/Oct/09 with Louise Street

Yep trust your feet on the slab!!!
crobinson - 2nd - 03/Oct/09 with Queequeg

HVS 5a easy and safe. What fantasist registered votes at E2 and 5c? Haha, that is absurd.
Tom Last - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/09 with Chester

berry - TR - 20/Sep/09

Taking a line up the blank slab, heading slightly right. The move near the top of the slab is pretty scary (requiring sure footwork on smears and edges). If you get this wrong, its not going to be pretty, focuses the mind 8-O. Your reward for finishing the slab is a short lovely juggy overhang and easier pocketed rock to the top. Great fun.
Poco Loco - Solo rpt - 29/Aug/09

harvie - Solo - 28/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead - 16/Aug/09

Sophieeee - TR - 01/Aug/09

Dilwat - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/09 with dready

dready - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/09 with dillwat

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead β - 30/May/09

Poco Loco - TR O/S - 25/May/09 with My mum

TheLegoMan - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09

TheLegoMan - Lead RP - 11/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/09

El3ctroFuzz - TR rpt - 23/Feb/09 with Duchy College Session

Hidden - TR - 23/Feb/09

Repeat Ascent
El3ctroFuzz - 2nd rpt - 29/Nov/08 with Tom Thorpe

Master Chief - Lead rpt - 01/Nov/08 with Moe

Ed morris - TR O/S - 31/Oct/08 with stefan

Hidden - Solo O/S - 11/Oct/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Jul/08

noelj - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/08 with Jane

Seconded AJ up then Lead it myself 4 hours later.
El3ctroFuzz - Lead β - 15/Jun/08 with AJ

Completed first half of Lord falmouth up to Moping owl crack. Finished up staircase.
badindark - TR - 12/May/08

Nice move on the initial slab, the rest is easy.
JackMountains - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/08 with Ben Snook

Ben Snook - 2nd - 16/Apr/08 with n0ph33r

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead - 09/Feb/08

Master Chief - Lead rpt - 24/Jan/08 with Jeremy and Moe

jgclimb - Lead - 24/Jan/08 with moe tom

Master Chief - Lead RP - 18/Dec/07 with Jeremy

jgclimb - 2nd - 18/Dec/07 with tom

my first really technical climb and i will do it again
pielander - TR - 24/Nov/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/07

Marti999 - Solo O/S - 12/Oct/07

Doesnt deserve E1, confidence move at the top of the slab as crux, trust your boots and move slowly. Smooth delivery of power..
El3ctroFuzz - TR O/S - Oct/07 with Belayer: Liam Cock

ccrowle - Lead O/S - Aug/07

Stuie - Lead dog - 20/Jul/07 with Rah Lumb

hapymike - Lead - 04/Jun/07

Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/07

Hidden - Solo O/S - 2007

Stuie - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/06 with James Hoskin

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/04

simon kimber - Lead O/S - Feb/04 with Lucy Filce

simon kimber - Solo - Feb/04

Hidden - Lead - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/03

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/May/03

Hidden - 2nd - 27/May/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jan/01

Karl Bromelow - 28/Oct/00

Mark Kemball - Lead - 16/Jun/99 with Lee Bartrop

andy_pemberton - Lead - 1999 with Katharine Pemberton

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Maywood96, Kellz, callum brown, Hidden, SimonMarcYoung, Tom_Harding, Hidden, BerruccI, maresia

Voting
Total votes cast 100
hard E10 of 25
E11 of 25
easy E113 of 25
hard HVS3 of 25
HVS5 of 25
easy HVS2 of 25
hard VS0 of 25
VS1 of 25
easy VS0 of 25
hard 5b0 of 23
5b1 of 23
easy 5b0 of 23
hard 5a8 of 23
5a12 of 23
easy 5a2 of 23
hard 4c0 of 23
4c0 of 23
easy 4c0 of 23
3 Stars4 of 52
2 Stars33 of 52
1 Star13 of 52
0 Stars2 of 52
Bag of .....0 of 52
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Style of ascent

Soloed21 of 314 (6.7%)
Lead155 of 314 (49.4%)
Followed73 of 314 (23.2%)
Toproped54 of 314 (17.2%)
Alt Leads1 of 314 (0.3%)
Unknown10 of 314 (3.2%)

'Climbed'91 of 314 (29.0%)
clean O/S157 of 314 (50.0%)
clean β13 of 314 (4.1%)
clean rpt30 of 314 (9.6%)
clean RP10 of 314 (3.2%)
dogged10 of 314 (3.2%)
dnf3 of 314 (1.0%)