Sexilegs** HVS 5b
[midnight cowboy with sexilegs finish, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
Lots of great climbing on the first pitch. The route described is slightly different to that in other guidebooks taking in a better stance and line. Start at the left end of the low overhang at the base of the slab, 8m right of the arete.
1) 5b, 23m. Move through the overhang at a notch and climb the widest of the thin cracks to a thin horizontal break. Go left along this to the base of a right-facing corner and climb it to an overlap. Move left to a flake and take this until it is possible to move left once again across the main overlap with difficulty. Downclimb leftwards to the stance of Midnight Cowboy.
2) 4c, 34m. Move up rightwards above the overlap to a smaller overlap and horizontal break. Climb the thin diagonal crack leftwards to broken ground and finish up the cleanest line with care. Stake belays on the left and right. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: midnight cowboy with sexilegs finish © shunty
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 91 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/15

dpalmer1961 - Lead - 17/Jul/15

AngelaC - 2nd - 21/Mar/15 with Rick Sewards

Led pitch 2. Pitch 1 is really nice. Pitch 2 starts nicely but then rapidly degrades into a vegetated horror. First all the holds and cracks start to fill with mud and vegetation. Digging these out may yield some holds, but no gear appears except dubious shallow micro placements. As you ascend footholds become replaced by loose tussocks of grass which you desperately hope remain attached. The rocks then takes on a wonderful loose and flakey character, and in keeping with the other topouts in this section you then have 15m of steep unprotected grass and loose rock to negotiate. Could do with a clean in advance, or leave a rope in the place? Surprisingly horrifying, and much worse than the top pitch of Midnight Cowboy! I may have also used my nutkey for a bit of aid on the final damp grass topout (plunging it into the soil)...
andrewmcleod - AltLd β - 04/Jan/15 with Ed Walker

jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/14 with luke rooker

Mr Tickle - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/14 with jamie ward

First Pitch 3 star, an amazing sequence. night came in for the second pitch which was chossy loose and covered in lichen have no idea if we followed the correct line but well done dad for doing the pitch with very little gear.
peter.ravenscroft27 - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/14 with Dad

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/14 with Debbie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14

Led P2. Didn't really know where the pitch went so took the weakest line I could find. Not much gear on offer. First pitch was awesome. Good lead by Anna.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Anna Kennedy

annak - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Lee Harrison

pitch 1 lovely!! avoid no pro second pitch its loose and overgrown
dready - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd β - 11/Aug/13

Climbed the first pitch. Lead pitch 2 but went of f route onto the end of long rock eliminate.
Kate Edhouse - AltLd - 28/Jun/13 with gerwen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/13

Freshprintce - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/13 with Will Warrington

Nick Biven - 2013

Almost lost partner due to tide!
Jams Crwca - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/12 with Craig

sgl - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/12 with ben

Stephen Shaw - AltLd - 24/Jul/12 with simon

stephen ashworth - AltLd - 22/Jul/12 with john frost

Probably 5b on first pitch
Frostie - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Steve Ashworth

Beyond description! Simply the best. Do Sexi - Cowboy the ultimate climb on this slab. 1st pitch sexilegs and 2nd, 3rd pitches midnight cowboy. Brilliant
mikemontain - Lead - 15/Jul/12 with alison williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/12

Mike did the 1st, delicate, I nearly fell on second! I lead the 2nd pitch up through badly protected grass and loose rock
Rollo - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Mike

Sarah Welsh - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Steve Price

led P1
steveprice.exmouth - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Sarah Welsh

Tried Gladiator and backed off, doing Sexilegs instead. I led pitch one, Mark led pitch 2
eroica64 - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12 with Mark Lee

Not done this one before. First pitch is good.
Ybot Htulk - AltLd - 07/May/12 with Duncan

Toby led P1, I led P2 although might have gone a bit off route.
Country_Boy - AltLd β - 06/May/12 with toby

1st pitch then second was made up
tim exley - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/12

Some very hard bits.
alan moore - 2012

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Beth Frampton

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Oct/11

Climbed top pitch after Kinkyboots first pitch
rfdl100 - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Simon Waters

Em66 - AltLd - 05/Jun/11 with Mat

Hidden - Lead - May/11

kdalzell - 2nd - 25/Apr/11 with Liam Fleming

Liam FLeming - Lead - 25/Apr/11

1st pitch only
Kevster - Lead - 27/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11

sammycolon - 2nd - 26/Mar/11

Craig Geddes - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with George Porter

Paul Eckton - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with steve read

Lead both pitches as Jonnie was new to it all. Lovely to have lead what I've seconded once.
Joolz - Lead β - 25/Oct/10 with Jonnie

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Oct/10

Led the first (crux)
Chris the Tall - AltLd - 25/Sep/10 with Vic

gareth r - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Keith

2 contrasting pitches; the first, brilliant climbing on perfect rock, the second, loose choss composed mostly of plant life, with crap gear.
Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10 with Claire

all in one pitch decided to burn through the pitchs instead of faf with a belay as tide was coming in last pitch pretty shite, but made it to belay in time with my belayer having about a foot of space between him and the incoming tide
culmclimberRob - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10 with hamish

lead 2nd pitch nearing dark... need to get back and lead the 1st!
Joolz - AltLd - Jun/10

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10 with Paul Wolf

MGrock - 2010

lovely first pitch. rich lead second overgrown pitch
mattf77 - AltLd - 19/Aug/09 with rich

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jul/08

Norman_P_W - 2nd - 23/Jul/08 with Bob M

led 1st pitch, bold in places but good fun!. second pith is somewhat overgrown
csd23 - AltLd O/S - Jan/08 with Mark Bunyard

John Lisle - 2008

brian watson - Sep/07

Not the best ascent in the world. Went off route on first pitch and belayed where I could, not where I should. Dan then needed rescuing off second pitch. By which time we were both dehydrated and sunburnt. Bit of an epic :)
Caralynh - AltLd - 26/Aug/07 with Dan (dpmuk)

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Aug/07

Jon Evans - AltLd - 24/Jul/07 with Paul

climber sim - 2007

John Lisle - 2007

Marq - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/06 with Daniel Dennehy

John Lisle - 2006

Scary top pitch
BruceW - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Becca

Hidden - Lead - Aug/05

Lead pitch 1
Alaric - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/04 with Isabel B, Rhys F

Mark Collins - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/03 with Mark Watson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/03

reg_measures - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/03 with pete kenyon

Adrian Daniels - AltLd - 25/Aug/02 with Steve Webster

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/02

nickdonohue - AltLd - Mar/02 with Dave Chapman

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/00

prometheus - Lead - 1998 with Martin

Mickdenali - Lead O/S - 1998

andy_pemberton - AltLd - 1997

tapley - Lead - 14/Sep/84 with Chris Seymour

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/83

Mike C - AltLd - 04/Jun/82 with Andy Winfield

Simon cook - 1982

mark-abz - 2nd - 07/Dec/80 with Brian W

Ken Taylor - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/79 with Richard Langthorp, George Diprose

D Tempest - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/78

Mike C - AltLd - 25/Jun/78 with Kevin Howett

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 29/May/72 with Speedy Smith

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
kim.mulji, nickstephens, AJH, nick hawkins, Boulderdash86, Hartley, rob askew, Julia Chatterton

Total votes cast 37
hard E10 of 13
E10 of 13
easy E10 of 13
hard HVS4 of 13
HVS9 of 13
easy HVS0 of 13
hard VS0 of 13
VS0 of 13
easy VS0 of 13
hard 5c0 of 12
5c0 of 12
easy 5c0 of 12
hard 5b0 of 12
5b0 of 12
easy 5b1 of 12
hard 5a7 of 12
5a4 of 12
easy 5a0 of 12
3 Stars6 of 12
2 Stars4 of 12
1 Star2 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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