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Sexilegs* HVS 5a

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[Sexilegs, 2 kb]Lots of great climbing on the first pitch. The route described is slightly different to that in other guidebooks taking in a better stance and line. Start at the left end of the low overhang at the base of the slab, 8m right of the arete.. 1) 5b, 23m. Move through the overhang at a notch and climb the widest of the thin cracks to a thin horizontal break. Go left along this to the base of a right-facing corner and climb it to an overlap. Move left to a flake and take this until it is possible to move left once again across the main overlap with difficulty. Downclimb leftwards to the stance of Midnight Cowboy.. 2) 4c, 34m. Move up rightwards above the overlap to a smaller overlap and horizontal break. Climb the thin diagonal crack leftwards to broken ground and finish up the cleanest line with care. Stake belays on the left and right. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Sexilegs © John Wellbelove
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 70 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Running_Board - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/13 with Will Warrington

Hidden - 2013

Almost lost partner due to tide!
Jams Crwca - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/12 with Craig

sgl - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/12 with ben

Stephen Shaw - AltLd - 24/Jul/12 with simon

stephen ashworth - AltLd - 22/Jul/12 with john frost

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12

Beyond description! Simply the best. Do Sexi - Cowboy the ultimate climb on this slab. 1st pitch sexilegs and 2nd, 3rd pitches midnight cowboy. Brilliant
markquest - Lead - 15/Jul/12 with alison williams

tommack - Lead O/S - Jul/12 with H.Swindell

Mike did the 1st, delicate, I nearly fell on second! I lead the 2nd pitch up through badly protected grass and loose rock
Rollo - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Mike

Steve/Me
Sarah Welsh - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Steve Price

led P1
steveprice.exmouth - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Sarah Welsh

Tried Gladiator and backed off, doing Sexilegs instead. I led pitch one, Mark led pitch 2
eroica64 - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12 with Mark Lee

Not done this one before. First pitch is good.
Ybot Htulk - AltLd - 07/May/12 with Duncan

Toby led P1, I led P2 although might have gone a bit off route.
Country_Boy - AltLd β - 06/May/12 with toby

1st pitch then second was made up
tim exley - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/12

alan moore - 2012

alan moore - 2012

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Beth Frampton

Climbed top pitch after Kinkyboots first pitch
rfdl100 - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Simon Waters

Em66 - AltLd - 05/Jun/11 with Mat

Hidden - Lead - May/11

kdalzell - 2nd - 25/Apr/11 with Liam Fleming

offroute - Lead - 25/Apr/11

1st pitch only
Kevster - Lead - 27/Mar/11

davo74 - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11

sammycolon - 2nd - 26/Mar/11

Craig Geddes - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with George Porter

Lead both pitches as Jonnie was new to it all. Lovely to have lead what I've seconded once.
Joolz - Lead β - 25/Oct/10 with Jonnie

Led P1
Steve Woollard - AltLd - 10/Oct/10 with Helen

Led the first (crux)
Chris the Tall - AltLd - 25/Sep/10 with Vic

gareth r - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Keith

2 contrasting pitches; the first, brilliant climbing on perfect rock, the second, loose choss composed mostly of plant life, with crap gear.
Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10 with Claire

all in one pitch decided to burn through the pitchs instead of faf with a belay as tide was coming in last pitch pretty shite, but made it to belay in time with my belayer having about a foot of space between him and the incoming tide
culmclimberRob - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10 with hamish

lead 2nd pitch nearing dark... need to get back and lead the 1st!
Joolz - AltLd - Jun/10

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10 with Paul Wolf

MGrock - 2010

lovely first pitch. rich lead second overgrown pitch
mattf77 - AltLd - 19/Aug/09 with rich

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jul/08

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jul/08

led 1st pitch, bold in places but good fun!. second pith is somewhat overgrown
csd23 - AltLd O/S - Jan/08 with Mark Bunyard

John Lisle - 2008

brian watson - Sep/07

Not the best ascent in the world. Went off route on first pitch and belayed where I could, not where I should. Dan then needed rescuing off second pitch. By which time we were both dehydrated and sunburnt. Bit of an epic :)
Caralynh - AltLd - 26/Aug/07 with Dan (dpmuk)

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Aug/07

Jon Evans - AltLd - 24/Jul/07 with Paul

climber sim - 2007

John Lisle - 2007

D,M
Marq - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/06 with Daniel Dennehy

John Lisle - 2006

Scary top pitch
BruceW - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Becca

Hidden - Lead - Aug/05

Lead pitch 1
Alaric - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/04 with Isabel B, Rhys F

Mark Collins - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/03 with Mark Watson

dean.lindsey - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/03 with Laraine

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/03

reg_measures - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/03 with pete kenyon

Adrian Daniels - AltLd - 25/Aug/02 with Steve Webster

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/00

prometheus - Lead - 1998 with Martin

Mickdenali - Lead O/S - 1998

andy_pemberton - AltLd - 1997

Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/83 with Wendy Goodyer

Mike C - AltLd - 04/Jun/82 with Andy Winfield

mark-abz - 2nd - 07/Dec/80 with Brian W

Ken Taylor - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/79 with Richard Langthorp, George Diprose

Mike C - AltLd - 25/Jun/78 with Kevin Howett

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 29/May/72 with Speedy Smith

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
nickstephens, AJH, Hidden, nick hawkins, Boulderdash86, Hartley, Hidden, rob askew, Julia Chatterton

Voting
Total votes cast 28
hard E10 of 10
E10 of 10
easy E10 of 10
hard HVS3 of 10
HVS7 of 10
easy HVS0 of 10
hard VS0 of 10
VS0 of 10
easy VS0 of 10
hard 5b0 of 9
5b0 of 9
easy 5b1 of 9
hard 5a5 of 9
5a3 of 9
easy 5a0 of 9
hard 4c0 of 9
4c0 of 9
easy 4c0 of 9
3 Stars4 of 9
2 Stars3 of 9
1 Star2 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent

Lead23 of 70 (32.9%)
Followed5 of 70 (7.1%)
Alt Leads33 of 70 (47.1%)
Unknown9 of 70 (12.9%)

'Climbed'36 of 70 (51.4%)
clean O/S32 of 70 (45.7%)
clean β2 of 70 (2.9%)