Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
A tough route at the top end of its grade. Bridge up the overhanging chimney until a step down right can be made below a sharp fin of rock. Follow a thin crack up to the overhang and pull past this with difficulty using a hidden hold. Finish without respite up the headwall and onto the ledge. Walk off left to escape (facing out to sea). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A good addition, which is just shy of E5. Start at the overhanging chimney just right of V Groove. Bridge up the constricted chimney until it is possible to step down right below a sharp fin of rock. Climb the thin crack on its left side to the overhang. A hard move leads to a hidden hold above the overhang. Step right to the arete, PR, then move leftwards onto the face and make hard moves up and left. Continue up the face to the walk-off ledge.
R. Thomas 1987.
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Grade: E4 ***
(Dinas Rock)