190m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great, long route up the striking ridge passing the overhang of the Gash.
1) 45m. Start 35m left of South Gully, just above a widening in the terrace. Follow a small groove to an overlap at 9m. Turn this rightwards and climb easier ground up and right to ledges beneath the ridge proper and the left-hand end of the Gash.
2) 18m. Follow the ribbed wall up to the large sloping ledge of the Gash, a feature that looks like a giant took a swing with an axe at the crag. Belay on the far right beneath the chimney.
3) 20m. Follow the awkward chimney. On the final move, your foot will slip several times before you finally get enough purchase to escape. Climb the wall above leftwards to the ridge.
4) 38m. Follow the exposed and rough ridge (various belays possible).
5) 38m. Continue up the ridge to reach a good ledge below the final tower.
6) 17m. Several alternatives can be found here, most feel hard. Climb the groove past a tricky roof. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Classic Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, North wales road to ruins HVS.

Samuel Wainwright 15/Oct AltLd O/S

Chilly! Two chimneys on one route - what a treat!

with wainers
Wainers44 15/Oct 2nd
Hidden 27/Sep -
Cornish boy 27/Sep AltLd O/S

Awesome route with varied climbing, some of which is strenuous. Done in 6 pitches. Sean odds, me evens. Finished up bubbly wall after traversing left under the overhang. We both thought it tough for the grade. Fantastic weather.

with Sean
Hidden 27/Sep Lead O/S
Louvet 27/Sep -
with Tarquin
Ruth Allan 27/Sep 2nd O/S
Matt Bill Platypus 19/Sep AltLd O/S

Block leading. I did 1 to 3.5. James the rest. Not really a 3 star route.

spearing05 19/Sep AltLd

The chimney after the gash can be climbed from the outside if you have long enough arms - even with a rucksack - much to my amusement after all the grunting and groaning from Andrew. Bubbly wall as final pitch

with Andrew
Hidden 19/Sep AltLd O/S
joermann 17/Sep AltLd
Ron Rees Davies 10/Sep AltLd


with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 10/Sep AltLd O/S

Led all except a scrambly bit before the last chimney as Ron forgot his rockshoes (but made a good effort in his trainers). Memorable for the unpleasant looking chimneys that are probably awkward whatever grade you climb, but surprisingly good fun once you get stuck in.

with Ron
David_Gledson 07/Sep Solo O/S
SuperstarDJ 30/Aug Lead dnf

Led first two pitches before abandoning due to my second not enjoying it. Much harder than Overlapping Ridge Route, quite sustained vdiff with some exposure and wet rock. Was a little glad not to have to tackle the polished chimney with exposure above. Bad call on my part to take a multi pitch novice on the route. Lowered/abseiled 25m to traverse onto Overlapping Ridge Route which put the fun back into the day.

with Rachel Partington
RiPomc 30/Aug AltLd

Lead p4 as per CC guide. Second half of p3 according to Rockfax

with Steve Grey, Julie Cooke
JCookie 30/Aug AltLd

I led first pitch but it was wet and slimy so I stopped a bit short. Richard led one pitch and Steve led the rest, including both slimy chimneys. A grand and testing day out, with half of the route in the cloud. Just what Bank holiday weekends are made for! By the way- superstar DJ, I picked up your screwgate and no.6 nut- any way I can get them back to you??

with Steve Grey, Richard Plater
Steve954 11/Aug AltLd rpt

That bloody chimney....

with Rich
Jim Malo 08/Aug Lead O/S
with Hugh
flannery 07/Aug AltLd O/S
with iain, ed, Jack
andrewmcleod 03/Aug AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 & 2, moving together, and was then belayed through the chimney on pitch 3 (had to leave the backpack behind! plus was wearing approach shoes...). There is no gear on the chimney except threads at the top and bottom, although it is shorter than it looks. Zack led the rest, moving together again. The alpine-style ridge at the top was fun, and we must have taken the wrong groove at the top (went extremely direct) as it was quite hard!

Hidden 03/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug AltLd O/S
davenev 02/Aug AltLd O/S
with Graham
blakey ?/Aug Lead
chris wyatt 31/Jul Lead O/S

Damp greasy and pretty hard I thought. HS for me

with richard from tricouni club
Hidden 30/Jul AltLd
neal 12/Jul AltLd O/S

Moving together/quick pitching in big boots. Some rain, but good route. 1st chimney quite tricky in wet/big boots!

with Tom Chamberlain
Dazluke2000 11/Jul Lead O/S
Trace ?/Jul AltLd
Stanners 18/Jun AltLd O/S

Nice to be up there in much better conditions this time! And even got to do the adam and eve jump this time around :) welcome back to N wales.

with Andy G
Hidden 11/Jun AltLd O/S
BStar 07/Jun AltLd O/S

P3 + 4. In big boots, avoided the horrid chimney with a very exposed but worthwhile alternative pitch. The chimney was not happening in big boots no matter how hard I tried!

Hidden 07/Jun Lead
wjcdean 07/Jun AltLd O/S

In big boots. Lead pitches 1, 2 and 6. Chimney looked horrid so avoided on the right, good lead from Adam there. Awesome challenging day. Took a line on the right up a thrutchy chimney to finish instead of the standard finish

Trevers 07/Jun AltLd

Big boots turned this into a challenging day out. Adam avoided the chimney with an exposed traverse on the right. My boots were just too small to be able to lead the final chimney to the top out

Hidden 06/Jun Lead
PeteMc 23/May AltLd O/S

In big boots.

tom0french 23/May AltLd O/S
odari 16/May -

Harder than VD and some sections are very exposed. The chimney is extremely polished and non protegible until almost the exit, I'd give it a HS; then follows a section of face climb with poor gear if any, that's another run out, a big one. The second chimney at the top is more an offwidth and although slightly steeper is easier and takes loads of gear.

Martin Rowe 19/Apr Lead O/S
Gavinwm 18/Apr 2nd dog

First multi pitch climb. I lead pitch 2 and 6.

Hidden 18/Apr AltLd
Hidden 11/Apr Solo
will484 11/Apr 2nd
with david pillow
Hidden 08/Apr 2nd
TCarrick 07/Apr Lead
TCarrick 07/Apr Lead
Hidden 06/Apr AltLd
Rob Evans ?/Apr Lead O/S
andrew549 20/Mar AltLd O/S
jcw ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Mike Bayley ??/2015 -
Mike Bayley ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
partz 29/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Hmmm went a bit off route and ended up on the LHS of the gash...Some interesting climbing and route finding got us back on track though. Adventurous nonetheless

with Angel Lee, Scarlett Barton
j.buckley87 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Chris Oldfield 15/Nov/14 2nd β

Proper mountaineering, great approach and descent! Absolutely wicked. The wet bits were surprisingly sketchy.

with James Buckley, Stu Warren
pearson9596 15/Nov/14 AltLd rpt
G Weatherley ?/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
with Keiha Dhruev
robjdc 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

I lead 1st, 3rd (desperate chimney), and 5th (fantastic arÍte) pitches. Judders lead 2nd 4th and final chimney pitch

with Judders
Hidden 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/14 -
mellorno1 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Great mountain climb, the 1st chimney is very polished. Good climbing on the ridge above and fun last chimney!

with Mark
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Ben Hollands 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic long route with good situations

with Wendy Anderson
Pete Sanger 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/14 -
ashsleight 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Another Tryfan classic

with Student
Hidden 11/Jul/14 Solo
robthered 23/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Egons Issy 21/Jun/14 AltLd

B3 boots

with Kate Standeven, Kevin Vans-Colina
Julesthe1st 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Bart
LauraChilterns 14/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

Bailed after second pitch

with Dominic Turner
stemill 14/Jun/14 AltLd

Moving together

with Mark
anth12 08/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1, p3, p5 & half p6

with Leachy7
MrJWilliams92 ?/Jun/14 -
leachy7 ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with anth12
D Berry 31/May/14 Solo O/S

Glad of my cordelette to allow the chimney to be climbed without my pack. The ridge above is very good. Just a shame for the broken nature of the pitches low down and the little bit of vegetation higher up.

jon59 30/May/14 Lead
paul79 27/May/14 Lead
mrginna 27/May/14 AltLd rpt
with johnny
Hidden 27/May/14 AltLd O/S
Heather Osborne 27/May/14 AltLd O/S
monkeymatt 18/May/14 AltLd O/S

My first multi-pitch

Hidden 18/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/May/14 Lead O/S
JamieSparkes 16/May/14 Solo O/S

Wee chimney above the gash is a tad awkward with a pack on, other than that, really pleasant.

Hidden 14/May/14 AltLd O/S
bigbobbyking 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Went the wrong way on pitch two, had to down climb to get back to the right bit.

with Matt Shreeve
Sidekick 03/May/14 Lead O/S
saxonzulu 27/Apr/14 AltLd
Derek Ryden 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with William Taylor, Glynne Andrew
willyboy 18/Apr/14 -

Great view, great belay spots, great climb

Hidden 10/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
McPhail92 10/Apr/14 2nd O/S

In mountain boots. Awkward chimney but well protected and fairly straight forward.

oldmanofmow ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
peakcaver ??/2014 -
yesbutnobutyesbut ??/2014 -
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
nj.harris ??/2014 -
danex ??/2014 AltLd
MSchobitz 07/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1, 3 and 5. Rain with some hail turned the "awkward chimney" into a terribly slimy experience. Not even going to comment on the sixth pitch...

Calum Wadsworth 07/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Pretty darn wet. Some tricky moves in the ridiculously slippy conditions!

with micki
mcondon ?/Nov/13 Lead
stanleynkk ?/Nov/13 AltLd RP

Wet, wet and wet

with Danny Barden
thompsettjack 15/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Matt1234 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
dkd ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with James Hoyle (FRCC)
smoreda 31/Aug/13 2nd β
stratandrew 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Excellent Mountaineering route. Done in the dry in rock shoes. Led P1, P3(the Gash), P5&6

Stuart Hurworth 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Excellent climb with continued interest throughout. The chimney is tricky but isn't that tough if you've got the moves and there is an exposed jug ladder to its right! Finished on bubbly wall.

with Manchester Climbing Club
Hidden 26/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
AlexFletcher 25/Aug/13 AltLd

Sam lead 1, 3 and 5, I lead 2, 4 and chimney at top of Munich Climb (VS) as the top pitch

sam26051 25/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 19/Aug/13 Lead
mrginna 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Every pitch. Didn't do the third pitch due to traffic and climbed up left instead. Great fun

with aj
tomdadom 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Richard Beckett
thomaspomfrett 09/Aug/13 Solo O/S

Cheeky evening solo, 2 hours camp to camp

with Stu Mcinnes
liverpooldave 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

with Cheshire Steve

ivebittenoffmorethanicanstu 27/Jul/13 2nd β
runestone 27/Jul/13 AltLd
with Dave Liv
BradleyWhite 21/Jul/13 Lead
onlyfoddington 20/Jul/13 AltLd

Went a bit off route after the polished chimney, crossing some easy ground and some more chalenging bits. B3s and bags. Some simu-climbing.

with Adam
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd
Toronto 20/Jul/13 2nd
with Elved Roberts
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
jacksonm1 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Lovely climb for the grade, pity about the midges nearer the top.

Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd
shed_hed 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Catherine Lawrence
alooker ?/Jul/13 AltLd

Moved together mostly with b3s and rucksacks. Long day of doing laps

with David
sheelba 29/Jun/13 AltLd

Climbed entirely on the outside of the chimney, seemed pretty straight forward. Beware the guidebook description and topo of the last pitch seems to be either wrong or severely misleading in the classics rockfax book. The actual finish is to the right and doesn't involve a roof (the book possible describes the finish to crackerjack HS), we finished up the arete climb instead.

Craigyboy13 29/Jun/13 AltLd
james_hill81 23/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

the chimney in the middle was quite hard, polished and little gear, climbing was a bit patchy in places but worth doing all the same

daviemj 08/Jun/13 AltLd RP

A fantastic climb. This was our second attempt at it. The fist attempt was on a cold day, we had trouble finding heather terrace and the route in fog. It got cold and the climbing was slow so we abseiled off on the third pitch. Today, as BMC has been going on about, the conditions were perfect. We started from the campsite at the bottom of Tryfan at 5:30am and completed the climb in about 4:45hrs. It was a superb climb and I'd recommend it. It has every style of climbing you could imagine for the grade and, in places, requires some cojones. It is indeed a pure 3 star. Bring on the next one! Tips: - You're climbing for a long time so make sure you have a lot of snacking stuff. And remember to eat them! - Have a couple of prussicks and a spare length of prussick cord to make abseilling off feesible. - Get there nice and early. It can take a bit of time and the camp site at the bottom of little Tryfan is cheap and cheerful.

BradleyWhite 08/Jun/13 Lead
ads 08/Jun/13 AltLd
with Julie
morgan91 08/Jun/13 AltLd
Sam Maher 08/Jun/13 AltLd β

After a previous failed attempt we finally did our first multipitch. I lead the Gash this time setting up the pitches pretty much as suggested in the guidebook. There were lots of great bits but best were the Gash itself, the 70m pitch on the main ridge and the final chimney (because we couldn't say we'd done it by not finishing it off the way it was intended). The final chimney was suggested to be harder than i found mind. I lead P2 (inc the gash, P5a and 6. Mike did P1 combined P3+4, and P5b with his usual tenacity.

with Mike Davie
Brannock 31/May/13 AltLd O/S
MPSBunny 31/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 AltLd
Will Gordon 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2, 3 and 6.

beds74 06/May/13 Lead

Big mountaineering classic. Becks had fun in the chimney... Team below had to get 3rd party to lead it for him. Quite bold but ok once your in. Another classic done.

with Rebecca Edwards
shavec 06/May/13 Lead

Lead every pitch apart from the chimney, which some one else did for me. Good climb but intimidating chimney which I backed off on first attempt.

with Aileen Lyons
Sam Maher 05/May/13 AltLd dnf

Started well but soon caught up with slower climbers on the route which lead to an hour and a half long belay... most uncomfortable and cold. 1st time multipitching and really must be more prepared before trying the route again! Made it just past the 1st awkward chimney which Mike lead before getting lost and deciding to abseil off a small spike into the gully before it got too dark.

with Mike Davie
Hidden 03/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
chris ginge ??/2013 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Richard Kinsman ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
brenzy83 27/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

very cold....snow in areas couldn't feel toes or fingers...first few sections felt harder than vd...first time i climbed alpine style...very much enjoyed the whole experience got to jump from adam and eve

with Andrew "willy" Willson
AWOODM71 21/Oct/12 2nd dnf

Bottled after first pitch and abseiled back down

with Andy Speed
Hidden 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
ScottieMunro1984 20/Oct/12 2nd O/S

40 walk on to heather terrace. 6 hours climbing as route was busy. weather was clear. Geoff Burton as Lead.

Ewan Russell 09/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
pblurton 09/Oct/12 AltLd

Ewan Lead most of it, I started on pitch one. Chimney was a hard start with a bag on but once of the ledge reasonable. Thought harder than vDiff but I'm a bit of a wimp. Wet sections caused me a bit of difficulty on the first pitch so set up a belay early.

with Ewan
Hidden 09/Oct/12 Lead
SteveM 06/Oct/12 Solo
Ander 22/Sep/12 AltLd

"Blue moon, you left me standing alone..."

with Jimb0
Jimb0 22/Sep/12 AltLd
with Ander
cdpuk 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Guide book said 30 min approach but it took us more like 90 min, and we didn't go far wrong trying to find the route! P1 and P2 weren't anything too special. P3's chimney was definitely harder than VDiff and we had to haul our rucksacks up on one of the ropes. P4 and P5 very enjoyable with a nice spike for an anchor roughly half way up to the main ledge. I'm not sure exactly where P6 was meant to go, but given the strengthening cold southerly wind, we went right up a wide crack. Took about 7 hrs total. Made it back to the pub in time for food. Fantastic weather apart from the last hour or so.

KLucy 15/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
KevinJ 08/Sep/12 AltLd
with Nige H
Zoomer 05/Sep/12 Lead

The summer finally arrived and after looking at this route since i started climbing, i finally managed it! Leading 2 students on a climbing experience week. Good route, good company.

with A Student
Hidden 05/Sep/12 2nd O/S
spags88 05/Sep/12 2nd

Best climb so far with good views from the ledges and also some scary moves, good sense of achivement to reach the top

with gary mitchell
elbeanio 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
afinley 26/Aug/12 2nd

First ever multi-pitch.

with Gareth Candlin
Mayaculpa 22/Jul/12 AltLd

I did the odd piches Johnny did the evens. We did the 70m P5 moving together except for protecting one exposed section. Good entertaining route with wind blowing 20-30mph gusting 45mph. Couldnt get up the first chimney (p3) with rucksack on, so hauled it up after ascending The start can be identified by the letter G scratched into the rock. It's 30cm and a bit faded

Jones_88 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Haul your rucksack up the bastard chimney of doom on a long sling or two instead of struggling with it on!

Simon Caldwell 21/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

In 6 pitches, missing out the final chimney in favour of Bubbly Wall instead. I climbed this route about 14 years ago, but the only pitch I could remember was the chimney.

with Carmen
Hidden 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
tom bre 01/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Very wet crag on arrival. Days weather better than forecast though each pitch felt harder than V Diff. Done in 5 pitches with pitch 4 having exceptional quality. Lead 1, 3, 5

magik_bob ?/Jul/12 AltLd
Graham Westbrook 29/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/12 -
Hidden 12/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 12/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Danjones 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Good trad mountain route. Bit polished in places but still enjoyable. Finished up bubbly wall which was nice finishing pitch.

with Simon Cash
Hidden 26/May/12 AltLd
Stephen Halliday 12/May/12 AltLd β
Truan 06/May/12 2nd

Very cold, light snow. Tricky first chimney.

Curly Rich 06/May/12 AltLd O/S

I still hate chimneys. Good day out dispite the cold. God I sound like Victor Meldrew.

with gmc truan, GMC Stuart
Stewart Armstrong 06/May/12 AltLd O/S

still cold.

with Truan Willis, Richard Spencer
Hidden ?/May/12 AltLd
98%monkey 14/Apr/12 Lead dnf

Led first 4 pitches, fine, must get better as you go up. Bottom didn't seem that exciting. Had to ab off due to eating dodgy ham and Nicki throwing up twice. Got snowed on on the ab, quite a lot!

with Nicki
Mistee 14/Apr/12 2nd

Horrid - threw up twice. Pretty sure we missed the start of the route. Seemed very messy - not worth the stars. Had to ab off two pitches short of top. Just confirmed that I managed to fracture a rib on abseil and then it snowed.

with Phil
robblowen 13/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic day out, sun to start and snow to finish, brilliant day in the hills. Led pitches 1,3&5.

with John
Hidden 28/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Moomin.williams 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
stevemcg 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Gareth
Alex 74 23/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Dave m
joey123 13/Mar/12 2nd dnf
with Chris Miller
CM1992 13/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Had trouble with the chimney and traversed off rightwards also managed to drop my nutkey, I will return

adam clarke 11/Mar/12 AltLd
with James Hulme
Hidden 25/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Darron ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
goadventure1 ??/2012 -
captain dringo ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
Andrew will wilson ??/2012 AltLd O/S
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
ashtond6 ??/2012 -
Hidden 03/Dec/11 AltLd dnf
jon59 27/Nov/11 AltLd

made for interesting climbing on a wet day in mountain boots

markhowley 13/Nov/11 AltLd dnf

meandering difficult routefinding?! Last pitch tricky overhang and running out of time. Escaped with an abseil into south gully.

with Jon Naylor
Hidden 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
will_benfold 05/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
with Cameron
cameron_hall 05/Nov/11 AltLd rpt
ian d f 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Moved together on most of it. The last pitch was wet and slimy. Some nice bits.

pearson9596 05/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
jshields 25/Sep/11 Lead

First done with Ian Hicks May 2004.

mandy talbot ?/Sep/11 AltLd
rbyrne84 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Alex Thompson 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Initial route finding fluff up quickly rectified...

Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 AltLd
uremac83 14/Jul/11 -

24 degree weather, clear views over ogwen valley.

with Richie Williams
Run_Ross_Run 13/Jul/11 AltLd

undergraded and overrated. Too much polish to enjoy and is no way as good as Grooved Arete. Dissapointed.

Hidden 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
vincentvega 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Agree that the route is under-graded due to the two main difficulties, (the 2 chimneys). Great route, first time out since breaking my foot 12 months ago!!

with danny robb
Fiskavaig 03/Jul/11 AltLd

Assumed the gash to be vertical not horizontal! so off route from the start.Climbed some nice ribs for one pitch,then a meter wide slab, then realized we were off route,did some pioneering climbing, till it was possible to move right and back on the route well above the gash. Finished up the very physical chimney.

with Paul R
banjoSanchez 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Great fun; sunny day but chilly in the shade. James and Mandeep were very new to trad so I lead everything. Not sure about my route finding at the bottom or straight after the squeeze chimney.

wilkie14c 09/Jun/11 AltLd
with Dave Clarke
TRFrost 03/Jun/11 Solo O/S
with N. Price, N. Howett
np134 03/Jun/11 Solo O/S
with T. Frost, N. Howett
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/May/11 AltLd
Chris M 17/May/11 AltLd dnf

in pouring rain and big boots... the chimney caused us to retreat.

lithos 02/May/11 AltLd

cock up at end not getting the right chimney cost us 30 mins. Cant remember anything of it, perhaps i hadn't done it before ! Gales force winds made it cold !

jwpil 01/May/11 AltLd O/S

Pitched the groval, moved together on the rest.

with Ben
benscarter 01/May/11 AltLd O/S

moved together for most of this

with Jack
Sam Simpson 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with James McIntyre
Hidden 30/Apr/11 AltLd
JonHarvey 27/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

2nd route of the day out of 3.

with Michael Maben
adamwesthead 27/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Move on final pitch beneath and around overhang is not v diff... 4a move so must be severe at least. The polished chimney was 4a min with poor protection so again should be HS technically, but realistically S 4a would be a better grade. Good climbing though

with Denzil, Hoult
Denzil Gunner 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Nick, Adam
tex.ryan 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with jib jib
JIMJIM 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
adam06 08/Apr/11 AltLd
with Tim Watts, dan sturman
Martin Lilley 03/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Rain falling as we started, followed by hail showers filling up the holds. Chilly, cold day. Lead first four pitches including around the outside of the chimney on Pitch three. Gave up two pitches from the top shivering and abseiled down into the gully and then again lower down after retrieving the rope each time. For a day after a long dry spell...

with Carolyn
mark_jc ?/Apr/11 -
Hidden ?/Apr/11 AltLd
Kap 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2,3,5&6

fleapitfan 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Surely a lot harder than V-Diff? Looks like it'd take a long time to dry out, too.

oliverharold 08/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
david morse 08/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

exited chimney to be greeted by hotaches. Quality route

with oli
Hidden 19/Feb/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden 12/Feb/11 AltLd dnf
Binder 12/Feb/11 AltLd dnf

Very cold, a few route finding problems. The chimney (my lead) was pretty horrible, especially with a rucksack! A numb-hands effort. Abseiled off into South gully from bottom of the final pitch/chimney, due to cold and darkness. Top of south summit 6.20 in dark.

with Chiz
Hidden 23/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
adam clarke 16/Jan/11 2nd dnf

Abseiled off after pitch two, waterfalls everywhere and strong winds

with James Hulme
Hidden ??/2011 -
paul birch ??/2011 -
brianrunner ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Swirly ??/2011 -
rurp ??/2011 Lead
Tobias at Home ??/2011 -
Tobias at Home ??/2011 -
franny ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
snakes77 15/Oct/10 2nd dnf

Not my cup of tea, not sure about the grade either, P3 chimney is nothing sort of ridiculous unless your 3st wet!!! gear not great too. Abseiled off after the chimney due to the weather changing dramatically, I guess we will re-visit but no time soon. (Before you start traditionalist I'M NOT SLAGGING THIS OFF)

with Monkey1
monkey1 15/Oct/10 Lead

O'dear... Wasn't impressed by first couple of pitches, chimney was ridiculous for a vdiff with or without sacks (which we hoisted seperately), then it rained. 'WET GASH'

with Snakes77
Matthew Edwards 09/Oct/10 AltLd dnf

Very misty, less than 20m visibility. Led 1st pitch, Homer led 2nd, the realized that the horizontal V notch was 10m right so came down, decided to back off on some tat as we didn't fancy a wet chimney as the pitch 1 was sketchy. Homer left my blue no.8 nut in a crack.

tonymw 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Richard Carratu
frost 22/Sep/10 AltLd

climbed as the last route of the day in high wind and driving rain. grooved arete,north buttrss,first pinnacle rib 5.30 car to car.

with D Almond
malstewart 09/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 04/Sep/10 AltLd
MJP 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 3 (up the gash) and 5 (nice bit along the top of the rib)

with Kate Webster, Sam Hardman
Roget 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with jim
mol 22/Aug/10 Lead
with Jesse
Darrell Read 22/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead
JamesBurton 22/Aug/10 2nd β
with Henry Olver, Mike Kean
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
31770 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
superdiamondgeezer 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
tompilgrem 11/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Lead p 2+4 then pissed it down, remained just about climbable. Still was a great route, p4 being the best.

with Dad
bobpilgrem 11/Aug/10 AltLd

Intermitent rain made route more challenging ! Great route- top chimney much easier than the P3 chimney.

with Bob/Tom
Hidden 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
MikeB1 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Nice climb, not as clean rock as FPR next door. Messed up first pitch and 2nd slipped off and hit the ground, unhurt luckily. 40m first pitch not such a great idea.

crag_monster ?/Aug/10 AltLd
gregoldridge ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Mark Peasley
alaster tonge ?/Aug/10 Lead dnf

wet day turned into underwater diving as we hit the chimney. abseiled off

teflonpete 31/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Abbed off the top of the first chimney when it started to rain. Desperately greasy in the wet.

with Amy
Hidden 31/Jul/10 AltLd
rustaldo 12/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Finally got my brother to come climbing. A great route and day out. Fantastic features.

with Tom
broc 12/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah
liamnkaz 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Started climbing at 11:00, swapped leads, one awful chimney each, topped out 7:30, longer than expected walk off in fading light, missed pub. Great day!

Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Richard L ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Liam led 1st pitch and ran into 2nd. Walked to start of 3rd which I led. Liam 4th - horrible narrow chimney, me 5th. ridge in 3 pitches. I led final chimney. Took too long on climb, took wrong path on descent and missed food in pub. Other than that a great day!

with Liam
mike hooper 26/Jun/10 AltLd

had a good day full day of sunshine

with rich pollard, dave dean
Hidden 25/Jun/10 -
Hidden 22/Jun/10 AltLd
georgenvk 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
howlingbaboon 04/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Peter Holder 02/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with James Dunn
Hidden 31/May/10 2nd
tedburt 30/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1,3,5

with Aaron Burdett
carl_123 28/May/10 AltLd O/S
fizzychewitt 03/May/10 AltLd
with Phil
Martin Stevens 03/May/10 AltLd rpt

Mervyn got p1 (full rope length). Lead p2 to the Gash. Mervyn lead p3 (polished chimney). Swung leads on the next 250ft. I lead the final chimney.

with Mervyn L.
JasonV 03/May/10 Lead O/S
with Jon
tradguy 27/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Ed Lamb
ed_1973 27/Apr/10 AltLd
Hidden 26/Apr/10 -
Lawrence Eccles 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Nicholas Livesey 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Minor epic due to slow second and difficulties in the chimney...teamed up with Rob and Dave for the final chimney. 12 hours car to car :-s

with Jim Hobson
robhorton 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Took rather longer than expected for "various reasons" (see previous entry). Some interesting chimneys and great top-out.

andyebbens 16/Apr/10 AltLd
with Paul
Hidden ??/2010 -
laurentb ??/2010 AltLd
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
moz ??/2010 2nd
with Chris
rustaldo 16/Dec/09 AltLd dnf

retreated due to weather.. SNOW! gutted after a long trek to get to the start..

Jonny M 12/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Marq 12/Dec/09 AltLd
aide 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Easy scramble, not worth roping up for, leave your big boots on and run up it to the start of Munich Climb!

Trisha Murphy 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with lex
jonnyhawkins1 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with charlie beard
cbeard 30/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
ChristosXpristos 29/Aug/09 AltLd dog
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Solo
bridget143 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Alpine style - pitched the chimney.

with Sion
tiga271 05/Aug/09 AltLd

led 1st pitch,bit damp, got chimney after the gash

with mark20
mark20 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Good long climbing, less scrambling sections than most on Tryfan, my fav so far

igneouscarl ?/Aug/09 Lead
iamac 24/Jul/09 -

enjoyed the first few pitches, went off route to finish some way to the left of where we should have. The polish was unreal and made it feel much harder! Thankfully dry weather prevailed.

with Huw
The Bad Cough 18/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
rayash 10/Jul/09 AltLd
with chris,mary
OwenF 06/Jul/09 2nd dnf

Abseiled off after 1st pitch as slow progress wouldn't allow an early finish

Big Steve C ?/Jul/09 AltLd
with Sammi
Od 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Jill Reinsch
Jillybean 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Od and Emma
Emma Danis 14/Jun/09 2nd
with Jilldo, Od
edmitchell 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with kai ren
jimorothy 11/Jun/09 AltLd

Preferred to Grooved Arete. Gash chimney v tricky with rucksack.

with Rachel Crolla
donkster 10/May/09 AltLd O/S

Very wet!

with ben
cooper leek 10/May/09 AltLd O/S
with donk
benparratt ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
Mark Stitson (ULGMC) 11/Apr/09 AltLd
Jake Howard 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Mark Stitson, Sam Strong
Twisty 04/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

- I say clean onsight, I did fall over on one ledge, so should I have said dogged!?

with Rayan Sammut
Hidden 04/Apr/09 2nd
chubbyclimber 14/Mar/09 -
with Fred
keith leonard ??/2009 -
nikmorgan ??/2009 Lead

Great route.

with Felicity
Hidden 30/Nov/08 2nd dnf
eclipse 29/Nov/08 2nd
with Gareth Thomas
Gareth T 29/Nov/08 Lead dog

Winter conditions, Ice on first pitch caused a minor epic and last chimney was iced up, had to escape to left.

with Tim Clark
Monk 12/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

Done in big boots and very wet in places. A nice enough climb, but not even close to 3 stars in my opinion.

with Matt Hartgrove
Hidden 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
profb 21/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Wasn't feeling confident after my fall the day before and hadn't placed gear or set a belay in a long time so happy to second.

with Steven Love
Stuart Macfarlane 20/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Jeanie
HughM 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Iain Sharpe
thompson1000 12/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Solo O/S
laurencehicks 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S

good value chimneys are fun!

with kev
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd
My Gravity 24/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Ben P
arakis74 03/May/08 AltLd

Great climb but surely harder than a VD? Maybe due to the extensive polishing and possibly going off route slighlty to the adjacent routes

with Martyn Lock, Mark Fyles
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd O/S
SteveM 14/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Kat
kitkat78 14/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with SteveM
mr rob ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Wayne S ??/2008 -
gdb4060 01/Dec/07 Lead
with Greg
Hidden 30/Sep/07 AltLd dnf
colly 30/Sep/07 -

Andy Chapman, Leon, Neil Mike, Peter Harder than V Diff surely

Neil Metcalfe101 30/Sep/07 2nd
with Peter & Keith. 2nd group Andy, Mike,Leon
Graeme Hammond 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Pete aka Dad
Hidden 02/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Caralynh 12/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Part of the 3 classics in a day. Moved together for most of it, traditional style.

paul_d 12/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
BazVee 09/Jun/07 AltLd
with Martin
martin one 09/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Barry V
Hidden 11/May/07 Lead
caroline256 ?/May/07 2nd
with Will
JdotP 21/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

I think we may have got a bit off-route.

with Bike Bore, Chris Banks
adi bryant 19/Apr/07 Solo
bullwinkle 14/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Hidden 12/Apr/07 Solo O/S
leonjones 07/Apr/07 Lead

Started a bit late, climbed too slow and finished in the dark! Not as good as Grooved Arete.

with Andy Schofield
cliffy 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Helped friends finish at 10.30pm

with John Mair
tobydunford 04/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
LiLaMont 04/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Glyn 26/Mar/07 Lead O/S

My dad found the smooth chimneys quite challenging. Went off route and did Bubbly wall severe to finish. Much to to displease of my father when he had to second it!

with Clive Hudson (father)
Hidden ?/Jan/07 Lead
fran04 ??/2007 AltLd
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
tumbling wizard ??/2007 Lead
Ian Andrews ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with Pete Williams, Martin Worthy, Fran Gowling
Dom Whillans ??/2007 -
mortimea ?/Oct/06 2nd
with Roger Jackson, Mark Chaplin, Simon
franny 15/Sep/06 2nd
Steve John B 11/Sep/06 2nd

First outdoor climb. Broke world swearing record trying to get into the chimney.

with Paul and Rob
A Crook 10/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
AR ?/Sep/06 AltLd O/S

A lovely day out. The chimney with a rucksack was quite horrible :).

with Peter
steven ?/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with Simon Dawson
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead
Ing 27/Aug/06 2nd
with Guillaume and Marion
Brown 22/Aug/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/06 Lead
RiPomc 06/Aug/06 AltLd

I took the first pitch and alternated from there.

with Richard Brownsword
emlynroberts 22/Jul/06 AltLd
with Polly Spencer-Velcott
Jenko 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Two main difficulties presented by a) the short chimney at the RH side of the gash (a brief struggle) b)the final pitch (protectable)

with Nigel Heritage
coffeepot 28/May/06 2nd
with jelaby
mooseloose 06/May/06 AltLd

What grade is that top pitch? VDiffMA(rse)? Was wet and route suitably polished

with Alan Rocky Roberts
Hidden ?/Apr/06 Lead
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 -
robo84 ??/2006 AltLd
robo84 ??/2006 AltLd
Tim W 13/Nov/05 AltLd O/S

Big boots, cold and damp

scorky345 ?/Nov/05 Lead
with Joe Corcoran
Hidden 15/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
aturner99 15/Oct/05 2nd
with Mark Gee
Luke Brooks ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/05 2nd
victim of mathematics 11/Sep/05 Lead O/S

Went somewhat off route near the start and didn't rejoin the main route until the final chimney. An interesting adventure in thick mist.

pyreneesjim 11/Sep/05 2nd O/S
Marq 11/Sep/05 AltLd O/S


with Rich Cole
mark4344 10/Aug/05 Lead
with Dale Knox
Hopevalleypaul 16/Jul/05 AltLd

The Cashin Variation

with Mike C
Hidden ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
SecretSquirrel ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
with Philip
jack243 ?/May/05 Lead O/S

My first lead!!!!!

with Rob H
Hidden ?/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/05 Lead
Different Steve ?/Mar/05 AltLd O/S

Excellent value for VDiff - tweed clothing and big boots the kit of choice for the two chimneys!

with Martin Hore & Sheila Norman
Rhian Wood ??/2005 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/2005 -
with Clare
Hidden 31/Dec/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Dec/04 2nd
Hidden ?/Nov/04 Lead O/S
drysori ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S

In light rain in big boots - we struggled at the short offwidth, thought we wouldn't make it for a minute!

with Malcolm
lithos ?/Jun/04 Lead
with jules+ pete
BALD EAGLE 15/Feb/04 AltLd
with Will Wykes
paul m hadley ??/2004 -
MontyH 01/Sep/03 Lead O/S

great fun took us about 6hrs door to door

with Andy Lawrance
Hidden 06/Jul/03 Lead
John HW ?/Jun/03 AltLd
with Rhys HW
Jon Pilling ?/Jun/03 2nd O/S
with steve prescott, Mark Pilling
Hidden ?/Jun/03 AltLd
bms 29/May/03 AltLd
with BCS
unfit 29/Apr/03 AltLd
with john N
Hidden 03/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
Samuel P 03/Aug/02 2nd
with Kevin, Gareth
Gman ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Urgles ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Fiend
shaun walby ?/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
Jacob Ram 12/May/02 -
Andy Clarke 05/May/02 Lead O/S

A great day out, following on from Direct Route on the Milestone.

with PeteD
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 26/Aug/01 Lead
John Marsland 30/Jul/01 Solo
Paul-Michael 20/May/01 Lead O/S
with Emma Day
Howard J 01/Oct/00 AltLd O/S
with Dave Checkley
rockjedi12345 ?/Oct/00 Lead O/S
with Phil Mathews
oscaig ??/2000 AltLd O/S

Cold early spring day with a dusting of the white stuff after a snow shower during the night. Climbed in big boots until we got to the desperate, dripping wet and polished gash. Steve was making no headway so I tried with rubbers I'd brought just in case and minus the sack. Was still character building stuff!

with Steve Reeves
J1PEF ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 Solo
BenTiffin ?/Jun/99 Lead
with Kate Wheatcroft
Hidden ?/Jun/99 AltLd
Hidden ??/1999 -
mjeffery ??/1999 -
barryjacks 07/Oct/98 2nd
with Andrew Maddison
Tenko 08/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
with JAck Pezzey and Dave Allen
paul birch ?/Aug/98 -
AndySL 02/May/98 AltLd O/S

Climbed incorporating Munich.

with Jerry
Simon Caldwell ??/1998 Lead O/S

climbed sometime in the late 1990s. Mike left his rock shoes in the car so I did most/all the leading.

with Mike
ColdAndWet ??/1998 Lead
Hidden 13/Dec/97 -
bags ?/Jul/97 2nd
iskra2000 21/Mar/97 AltLd
with Danuska Rycerz
snowy_woodruff 15/Feb/97 -

ice and snow

Hidden 26/Jan/97 -
IanGilbertJones 18/Jun/96 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/May/96 AltLd O/S
Marti999 ?/May/96 Lead
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd O/S
Babika ?/Oct/95 AltLd

An extreme climber using aid on the chimney pitch...tsk tsk

with Nick Jones, Mark Jones
Iain Thow 29/Sep/95 Solo

Also led (alts 1,2&6) + Pram Singh 29/8/92, raining.

Rog Wilko ?/Aug/95 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Budge ?/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Tim Bateman 24/Jun/95 AltLd
sixties 25/May/95 -
with hrd
sixties 25/May/95 -
with hrd
Ian Robertson ??/1995 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd O/S
bullybones ??/1995 -
Hidden 19/Nov/94 AltLd
JiveWeasel 28/May/94 AltLd

Included Munich

with Al H
stokienomad ??/1994 -
stokienomad 21/Nov/93 AltLd

Was well below zero.

Hidden 23/Sep/93 Lead
babymoac 24/Apr/93 AltLd
with Big Steve
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
JamieAyres ?/Apr/91 Lead O/S
with Jude Ayres
timreynolds 28/Sep/90 AltLd
with Andy Phillips
Hidden ?/Aug/90 Solo
Hidden 01/Jun/90 Lead O/S
Ched ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
Hidden 25/Nov/89 Lead
Andy Say 20/Oct/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/89 Lead
surfbish 05/Jun/89 Lead O/S
gringo1804 ?/May/89 AltLd O/S
Sean Kelly ?/Jan/89 AltLd

Winter ascent in lean conditions but very cold!

with Paul Harding
Hidden 17/Sep/88 Lead
Raggar 16/Jul/88 AltLd
with Guy C, Steve B
nigehughes ?/Apr/88 AltLd
with Colin Bell
scree ?/Oct/87 -
Raggar ?/Aug/87 AltLd
with Andy R
Backinthegame ?/Jun/86 AltLd
Raggar 27/May/86 -
with mike p
michael burrows 05/May/86 AltLd O/S
with dave lloyd
Nick Biven ??/1986 -
Ian Archer 27/Sep/85 AltLd
with Tony Green
Chris Craggs ??/1985 -
with Sherri Davy
biggianthead 04/Aug/84 -
with HT
wynaptomos ?/Jul/84 Solo
nigehughes ?/Jul/83 Lead
with Cranwell Cadets
Nigel Bond 14/Feb/82 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
mikej 01/Feb/81 Lead
with Mike Mason
MikeDowsett ??/1981 AltLd
with Jon Sharpe
Mark Kemball 20/Jul/80 AltLd
with John Jefferies, Angela Carson
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Richard Weller 04/Sep/79 AltLd
with Richard White
Hidden ?/Apr/79 Lead O/S
RichardMc 11/Nov/77 AltLd
with Tony Williams
Falko 05/Dec/74 AltLd O/S

"Snow" pencilled beside route description in Ron James guide

with Bill Briggs
Bolt Phobia 26/Apr/73 Lead
Rob Davies ??/1972 2nd
with Allan Sleight, John Lumley
rogerskews ??/1970 AltLd
with Martin Coward
zukator ??/1970 -
pneame ?/Apr/69 AltLd
with Tich Smitton
Gordon Stainforth 31/Jul/68 AltLd
with John Stainforth
uphillnow ??/1963 AltLd

Climbed many times since

with John Sargeant
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