Gogarth and Anglesey > Gogarth North Stack (Main Cliff) >
 
The Needle*** E3 5c

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83m, 3 pitches. High in the grade. Sustained 2nd pitch.
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 41 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13

Awesome line. Must be fit if this is top end E3, felt pretty steady.
JRae - AltLd - 13/Oct/12 with M Watson

Pitch 1 & 2
metal arms - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12

felt easy, must be fit
mwatson - AltLd O/S - Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12

Led pitch 2. Steep and sustained, cracking route. Top crack was brutal.
Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 15/Apr/12 with Dan

led p1 and 3
dan ely - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/12 with owian

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/11

lead 1 and 3. 1 was steep with some hard moves at the top. 3 was very pleseant. pitch two was fairly sustained although again with good gear/rests. one hard section to get onto ledge.. wish I could lay down the power sometimes!
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Remus Knowles

1st pitch
barni - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/11 with luke

p2
Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/11 with Barni

Led 2nd pitch. Had an epic, chalk bag came undone and just managed to realise in time and reversed with it in my teeth. When i arrived at the top section the shake-out undercut was gopping and absorbed all my chalk, or what was left of it after the drop. ended up swerving right into the camel and reversing to the pinnacle. Led off from here and used the left hand easy option, which is no easier. Good route but feels escapable all the way.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/11 with Duncan Campbell

Epic 5 hour ascent...Led p1 and 3. P1 has a scary urgent pumpy section and is tricky to get into off the deck but ok if you take the time to plan it. Took the 5b option at the top of the pitch, why? Because I'm short and a juggy runout romp up a steep wall appeals to me more than a reachy, well protected thrutch. Mase had a bit of an epic on his pitch (see his log). Was knackered once I reached the bottom of the 3rd pitch and I'm not a crackmaster so was intimidated but just took it as it came and it went fine. An epic day out. I Fucking love trad climbing...
Duncan Campbell - UKC - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/11 with Mason

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 09/May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2009

Seymore Butt - 2009

Dave Rumney - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Pete Johnston

Matt Vigg - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

mux - AltLd O/S - 2007

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Apr/06

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/06 with Ash

Ian McNeill - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

NeilGriffiths - AltLd O/S - May/05 with Dave Garry

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - May/02 with Viv

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/00 with Dave Taylor

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/99

Hidden - 2nd - 1996

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/94 with Chris Wilson

ChrisJD - AltLd - Sep/93 with PaulOr

Very hot for time of year and crack greasy.
David Smith - Lead - 24/Apr/90

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - 1989 with Nick Keekus

neilh - 2nd - 04/May/86 with dave marsh

andy gittins - 1985

Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1982 with Neil Molnar (Noddy)

Mike Owen - 04/Apr/81 with Andy Pollitt

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
owain86, Hidden, Hidden, cosreba, a_radiohead_fan

Voting
Total votes cast 48
hard E40 of 16
E40 of 16
easy E40 of 16
hard E38 of 16
E37 of 16
easy E31 of 16
hard E20 of 16
E20 of 16
easy E20 of 16
hard 6a0 of 15
6a0 of 15
easy 6a0 of 15
hard 5c7 of 15
5c8 of 15
easy 5c0 of 15
hard 5b0 of 15
5b0 of 15
easy 5b0 of 15
3 Stars10 of 17
2 Stars6 of 17
1 Star1 of 17
0 Stars0 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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Style of ascent

Lead8 of 41 (19.5%)
Followed2 of 41 (4.9%)
Alt Leads23 of 41 (56.1%)
Unknown8 of 41 (19.5%)

'Climbed'18 of 41 (43.9%)
clean O/S22 of 41 (53.7%)
clean rpt1 of 41 (2.4%)