Gogarth and Anglesey > Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff >
 
Central Park** HVS 5a

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[climbing through the lichen to the wide crack, 2 kb]55m, 2 pitches. Two superbly very varied pitches. HVS 4c. 1st pitch-slabby and fairly bold lead with some suspect protection. HVS 5a. 2nd pitch-wonderful, steep, well protected jamming crack.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs.

Photo: climbing through the lichen to the wide crack © mynyddresident
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 176 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Al Evans - 2014 with Jim Moran

Nigel Bond - Lead - 06/Oct/13 with Joe Boyd

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 29/Jul/13

UncleMephisto - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/13 with NZ Dave

rob.grafton - AltLd - 30/Jun/13 with Charlie Booth

Dan Hostford - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Robin Sillem

p1
Kyle87 - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/13

pitch one was steady on spaced hollow gear to a cool final traverse. Pitch Two was well worth it being exposed steep yet not too pumpy.. shattered at the end of a good long weekend.
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/12 with Shaun Humphreys

shaunhumphreys - 2nd - 07/Oct/12 with benkelsey

Led P1 2nd P2
tedburt - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Aaron Burdett

second attempt after earlier benightment and fall. better in the daylight, second pitch hard compared to cordon bleu. tired and thirsty so found a bit difficult.
nicole almond - 2nd - 17/Jun/12 with Dad

Quality climb to finish a superb days climbing.
Dave Almond - Lead - 17/Jun/12 with Nicole Almond

greglad - AltLd dog - 09/Jun/12

Sandbagged myself into leading P1 - well described as being both serious and mediocre. Luckily P2 is ace.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with James Oswald

Colin volunteered for P1 as it was his lead. P2 was awesome and pumpy.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with Colin Angus

Bob Windsor - AltLd - 06/May/12 with Rick Graham

First pitch only (a pretty horrible pitch) - it got dark.
owain86 - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/12 with Greg

Led P1 - more protection on the traverse than the entirety of the rest of the pitch. Easy Climbing though. Top pitch forced me to jam, wasn't best pleased...
The Green Giant - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/12 with Dan with the van

led first pitch. fell when large clod of earth gave way and hit my belayer! recovered and finished pitch. second pitch very sustained.
kim.mulji - AltLd dog - 21/Apr/12 with Patrick Goodwin

paddygoodwinlondon - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Kim Mulji

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

mikeyjbs - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Charles Green

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11

Nik P1, myself p2 - he fancied the easier pitch!
chris wyatt - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Nik Goile

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/11

P1 is not so good, except for the final traverse, while P2 was excellent. The rope was tangled in P1 ledge while I was leading, and after waiting for ages I climbed down to help sort it out - we spent 2 hours just there...
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Lee P

david morse - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/11 with Em66

Em66 - AltLd - 22/Jul/11 with Morse

stephenhartley - 2nd - 19/Jul/11 with nickmattia, Burns

Led 1st pitch. James led 2nd. Great contrasting route.
nickmattia - AltLd - 19/Jul/11 with stephenhartley, james turnbull

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jul/11

The guide says contrasting pitches, and it isn't wrong. 1st pitch is vegetated with a lot of hollow flakes and not much gear. Second pitch is nice!
al99 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Al Benson

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jun/11

hetaher - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Mark

myoung - AltLd - 29/May/11

tonanf - Lead O/S - May/11 with biaba and neil

led 2nd pitch
Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Pete S

Pete Graham - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Andy Hall

Hidden - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

centurion05 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Got a bit damp leading first pitch, dried out for Ben to lead the second.
slacky - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/10 with Ben

Lead 1st pitch, a lot of vegetation. 2nd pitch more enjoyable.
sergio46 - AltLd RP - 25/Sep/10 with Tim Clark, Ian Jones

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Sep/10

Pitch 1 is atrocious. Beware!
Ian Jones - 25/Sep/10 with Serge Gomez, Tim Clarke

Ianwesterby - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jul/10

top pitch. Good exposure,tricky finishing moves.
mynyddresident - AltLd - 02/Jul/10 with Phil

Ed F - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Sian

sian88 - AltLd dog - 26/Jun/10

Steve Lenartowicz - Apr/10 with Clare

Hidden - 2010

Nick Rundall - AltLd dog - 2010

Hidden - 2010

phil stubbs - 2010 with Nick Sharpe

Thought I was going to die a pointless death falling off the grass of pitch 1. (Went to right of cutaway!) P2 was quality.
Cheshire Dave - AltLd - 2010 with Chris

P2 was good but not worth the pitch 1 choss
Paulww - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/09 with Chris wilson

P1 is awful, glad Paul led this one and I got the lead for P2. Lost some skin on the deep jams in the awkward chimney/crack
Chris wilson - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/09 with Paul

Lead P1
RCrockford - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Jonah

Led P2
theotherpetehill - AltLd - 28/Sep/09

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09

Led pitch 1, which was a bit loose and thin on good gear, pitch 2 was pretty stiff for the grade.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 16/Aug/09 with Alex Wheldon

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Aug/09

1st pitch
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/09

Dave Rumney - AltLd - 26/Jul/09 with Tanya Milner

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Andy & Ellen

Led P2, great climb.
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/09 with Smiler Cuthbertson

Hidden - AltLd - 12/May/09

Hidden - Lead - May/09

eagleopus - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Alys

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/08

Will_he_fall - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Amy

brockers - Lead - Sep/08 with Guido

pieweb - 2nd dog - 27/Jul/08 with Alan Johnson

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jun/08

Led P2; v. sustained at the top
liz77 - AltLd - 01/Jun/08 with Ian R, Kate L

Hidden - 2nd - May/08

Lloyders - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/08 with Steve Parry

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/08

tigertiger - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2008

kieranrex - Nov/07 with Steve Franklin

lukea - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Rich

1st Pitch- Luke Alvarez 2nd Pitch- Richard Bartlett
Castleclimber - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Luke Alvarez

Led P2, jugtastic
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/07 with Guy Reid

Crap first pitch.
ian caton - 2nd - Aug/07 with Abi

Abi Chard - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Ian

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Jul/07

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/07 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/07

willjones - Lead O/S - 2007 with steve lucocq

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Dec/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/06

sustained top pitch, had flash backs to gogarth and fought those demons all the way to the top, fell off but not far.
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 28/May/06 with Dom Stockton

rob1 - AltLd dog - 14/Apr/06

sgl0jd - 2nd - Feb/06 with Steve Hobbs

Ian McNeill - 2006

Dom Whillans - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/05

Lead both pitches.
ritchierich - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/05 with Robbie Alexander

dicky79 - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Mike Bottomley & Andy Houseman

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Dec/04

On AMA AGM weekend
Scotsken - Sep/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/04

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/04

Hidden - 2004

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/03

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/03

Rain
NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 20/Oct/02 with Albert, James Hubbard

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Aug/01

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Aug/01

GuyM - Lead - 2000 with neil

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

VPJB - 2000

Gripped, pumped and took my first ever fall on trad but landed back onto a foothold, continued on to the top feeling a bit more relaxed about life.
halfmanhalfbiscuit - Lead O/S - 1999

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/98

I needed a rest leading the top pitch
Chris Ellis - AltLd dog - 05/Jul/97 with Louise Pellett

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1997

Tim Bateman - AltLd - 18/Aug/96 with Paul McMahon

Budge - Lead O/S - 1994 with Ellen Williams

steve taylor - 1994

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 06/Apr/93 with Chris Ranner

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/92

frost - AltLd - Sep/91

led 1st pitch
michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 14/Aug/91 with shaun

NickJH - AltLd O/S - May/91 with D Picker

first trip to th'Gogath... love it.
mattnuttall - AltLd - 10/Jun/90 with Alan Holden

keefe - 1989

led 2nd pitch
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/88 with ket

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Mar/88

Hidden - AltLd - 1986

Nick Biven - 1986

tapley - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/85 with Malc Otter

neilh - AltLd - 27/May/85 with dave croker

andy gittins - 1985

nigehughes - Lead - Aug/84 with Bernie Woodward

RichardMc - AltLd - 28/Aug/83 with John Evans

pitch 2
Mark Kemball - 2nd - 12/Mar/83 with Johnny Dawes

Andy Say - Lead - 12/Apr/82

Ian Clare - 1982

2,L.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 28/Nov/81 with Ian Milne

David Smith - Lead - 04/Oct/80

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1980

Mark Kemball - Lead - 21/Oct/78 with Sarah Bridge

Mike Owen - 08/Oct/78 with Elaine Watson

Cold and misty.
Ian Jones - Lead - Oct/78 with Chris Newton

Hidden - Lead - 13/May/78

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 14/May/77 with Dave Langmead

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Mar/77

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/76

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - Apr/76 with Will Walker

Bolt Phobia - 2nd - 06/Dec/75 with Martyn Hurn

pneame - 1974

bob@daysmill - 2nd O/S - Jun/72 with S.Worthington

Tom V - 2nd - 1972 with Ray Pitchforth

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 1970 with Peter Calam

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 12/Jul/69 with Bob Knapton

mikej - AltLd - 07/Apr/68 with Wil Hurford

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Roget, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dan Hostford, Hidden, Hidden, gavinpeach, Kevin Robert Jones, Katex, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 59
hard E10 of 21
E10 of 21
easy E10 of 21
hard HVS1 of 21
HVS19 of 21
easy HVS1 of 21
hard VS0 of 21
VS0 of 21
easy VS0 of 21
hard 5b0 of 20
5b0 of 20
easy 5b0 of 20
hard 5a4 of 20
5a10 of 20
easy 5a6 of 20
hard 4c0 of 20
4c0 of 20
easy 4c0 of 20
3 Stars0 of 18
2 Stars12 of 18
1 Star6 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead38 of 176 (21.6%)
Followed21 of 176 (11.9%)
Alt Leads86 of 176 (48.9%)
Unknown31 of 176 (17.6%)

'Climbed'91 of 176 (51.7%)
clean O/S74 of 176 (42.0%)
clean rpt2 of 176 (1.1%)
clean RP1 of 176 (0.6%)
dogged8 of 176 (4.5%)