Gogarth and Anglesey > Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff >
 
Winking Crack*** E3 5c

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[sink that cam, 3 kb]2 pitches. Awesome route with a big man eating offwidth at the top. First pitch is worth E2 5b with tough moves and average gear. Second is also worth E2 5b up until the off width. There is a rest before the top, and you'll probably want to spend as long as possible on it.
Joe Brown

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Wide Cracks.

Photo: sink that cam © jethro kiernan
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 91 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Al Evans - 2014 with Jim Moran

I led 1st pitch
Simon Allcock - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/13 with Wilki

Tom lead the crux, offwidth felt desperate
Ramon Marin - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Tom le fanu

First pitch E1/2 5b
Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Pete Johnson

Had to have a lie down at the top I was so knackered after the fight in the offwidth. Just what I'd hoped for. Stu made it look so easy on second...and I was just looking forward to having a good chuckle at him. Aah well, can't have everything!
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 16/May/13 with stuart lade

andybirtwistle - 2013

Stone Idol - 2012

Led P1 (E2 5b). Offwidth at top is more like E4 without big cams imo.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/11 with George Ullrich

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11

belay bunny turned bad - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with loundsy

Excellent. Was clean despite the welded wires until the final two metres two far of the route :-)
Dizz - 2nd - 23/Jul/11 with David B

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Jake

Led the first pitch, Dan took the crux. Another gogarth classic that puts a smile on your face!
jacobjlloyd - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 02/Jul/11

Offwidth gets harder as you go up. Very nervous squirming to reach the top with gear a long way below (no big cams). Found it a real tussle. Dave seconded it like it was a V Diff.
frank ramsay - Lead - 02/Jul/11 with Dave Turnbull

Such a good route, first pitch is way harder than 5a with average gear. Second pitch is brilliant sustained layback with great gear, then top off width is a battle but good! Three star route.
centurion05 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd - 19/May/11

Dave Rumney - AltLd - 16/May/11 with Dennis Wong

frost - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Pete H, Adam

Superb route. great layback flake followed by a tustle to the top
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Pete Harrison, Simon Frost

Lead first pitch. The top pitch is best enjoyed by laybacking, on the second.
halfmanhalfbiscuit - Lead O/S - Apr/11

zero six - AltLd O/S - Apr/11

bigie bob - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11

Pete Graham - AltLd - 05/Mar/11 with Rick Graham

Hidden - 2011

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Steve Crowe - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/10 with nick bullock

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/May/10

soph - 01/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Dec/09

Led direct start on pitch 1 (this is never "5a") probably E2 5c, managed pitch 2 clean, just! Stunning route
david morse - AltLd - 09/Aug/09 with Steve

miastacey - 2nd - 02/May/09 with Bob Smith

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/09 with Tom Randall

Led Pitch 1
MONKEY78 - 2nd - Mar/09 with adam ellwood

Levittator in upper crack. One of the best moments of realisation I've had in climbing.
stevebarratt - AltLd O/S - 2009 with Dave Morse

Good old fashioned stuff. Neededd those big Friends though.
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 2009 with Steve Wilson

tigertiger - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

tuftynick - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - 2008

The start of a great day on Gogarth.
Rich Kirby - AltLd - 06/Jun/07 with Craig Smith

Brown - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Henry

nige - AltLd - 16/Sep/06 with mark hounslea

Bern - 2006

simon kimber - Lead dnf - Aug/05 with Chris Stirling

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Hidden - 2004

Hidden - Lead - 07/Aug/03

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - May/02

Dave Reynolds lead the difficult pitch. Layback on wide crack at the top the best approach.
TimJM - AltLd - May/01 with Dave Reynolds

sadams - 2nd - 28/May/00 with Tom Briggs

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/99

JulesV - Lead O/S - 1999

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Apr/97

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/97 with Olly Metherall, Jon Sykes

phardman - 1997

not off width
michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 14/Apr/95 with richard parry

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/94

Gripper!
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/93 with Alan Holden

Campbell42 - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/92 with Barry Roberts

Did it in one pitch. The hardest moves are on the wall at about half height - the offwidth section is easy :-)
Bob - 2nd O/S - 06/May/91 with D. Lampard

keefe - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

Hidden - Lead - 17/Sep/88

took the escape
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/88 with steve ward

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/88

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

andy gittins - 1985

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 29/Aug/82 with Mike Butler

Later lead the route (1984)
David Smith - 2nd - 29/May/81 with john stanger

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/81

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/80

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1980

Mike Owen - 03/Jun/79 with Tom Jones

Copped out right!
ian caton - Lead O/S - 1978 with Bill Parker

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 2nd - Apr/77 with Dorothy Bogg, John Bogg

The final offwidth proved troublesome but nevertheless we prevailed. Useful experience for Yosemite!
petemeads - Lead O/S - Jul/75 with Mick Brady

mikej - AltLd - 12/Sep/69 with Bill Church

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Andrew Wilson, Dan Geh, Hidden, masa-alpin, dan ely, Hidden, iceaxejuggler, barni, datoon, andymoin, Hidden, Ian Jones

Voting
Total votes cast 56
hard E40 of 19
E40 of 19
easy E40 of 19
hard E31 of 19
E316 of 19
easy E31 of 19
hard E21 of 19
E20 of 19
easy E20 of 19
hard 6a0 of 19
6a0 of 19
easy 6a0 of 19
hard 5c2 of 19
5c14 of 19
easy 5c2 of 19
hard 5b1 of 19
5b0 of 19
easy 5b0 of 19
3 Stars12 of 18
2 Stars6 of 18
1 Star0 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent

Lead22 of 91 (24.2%)
Followed7 of 91 (7.7%)
Alt Leads34 of 91 (37.4%)
Unknown28 of 91 (30.8%)

'Climbed'51 of 91 (56.0%)
clean O/S37 of 91 (40.7%)
clean rpt2 of 91 (2.2%)
dnf1 of 91 (1.1%)