2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The striking cracks in the towering wall. Sadly the approach pitch is far from classic but the final crack is worth the effort. Scramble up 30 feet to a good ledge below a short wall.
1) 5b, 30m. Harder and more demanding than it appears. Go up a short easy groove before moving left around the arete (start of The Cruise) to gain the corner on the left. Climb this until a stance and block belay (old tapes in place) can be reached on the left.
2) 5c, 36m. Move to the left and climb the crack in the corner. Where the crack divides, follow the left branch. At a small overhang, move left then step back right following cracks to the final offwidth. Layback or thrutch, it's your choice! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Awesome route with a big man eating offwidth at the top. First pitch is worth E2 5b with tough moves and average gear. Second is also worth E2 5b up until the off width. There is a rest before the top, and you'll probably want to spend as long as possible on it.

Joe Brown

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Wide Cracks, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Thrutch and Clutch, Addicted to offwidths.

stemill 04/Oct 2nd dog
with Mike Buddle
john lynch 29/Aug Lead O/S

Didn't know what we'd done till we got down, good adventure with no big gear!

with Bethan D
pete johnson 28/Aug AltLd rpt
with Chris Parkin
Rachel Slater 15/Aug AltLd O/S

P2. Honestly didn't find the offwidth any harder than the rest of it (where I overgripped loads). Mostly climbed it face on without going inside or laybacking, which felt pretty natural.

tim newton 15/Aug AltLd rpt
robpartridge 15/Aug AltLd O/S
with Dave Garry
markalmack 04/Jul Lead O/S

Lead p2. Exciting at the top.

with little tom
Hidden 04/Jul AltLd O/S
Albachoss 27/Jun AltLd dog

Dogged P1, seconded the main show clean

with Dougie
dswansonlow 27/Jun Lead O/S

Great route. Very intimidated by the guide book descriptions but wasn't too bad. the 1st pitch was harder than expected. The second pitch was a brilliant romp on jugs with good gear and then run out through the offwidth, but it'd be hard to fall out...

with Alex Banks
mike lawrence? 23/Jun AltLd

Lead top pitch

with FatRob
Hidden 21/Jun AltLd O/S
jamestaylor92 07/Jun AltLd O/S
Ed morris 07/Jun AltLd O/S
WB 16/May AltLd O/S

Cool route. Planned on laybacking the arete, but once up there, i buried myself in the crack. Awesome.

with Guy
MischaHY 29/Apr 2nd O/S

Hardcore. Caff made it look piss, of course. Will be back.

with Joe Heeley
Ewan Russell 19/Apr AltLd O/S


with Tom Nichols
dan ely ??/2015 AltLd O/S

i expected the worst and found it quite pleasent

with dave chew
phil64 ??/2015 -
NeilGriffiths 14/Sep/14 AltLd

Crackin' route. Phil led top pitch leaking a little of himself behind.

with Phil Ralfs
Hidden 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
morganator 07/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Great route. Would be better as a single pitch

with Dan Arkle
Hidden 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/14 -
Al Evans ??/2014 -
with Jim Moran
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
Simon Allcock 21/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I led 1st pitch

with Wilki
Ramon Marin 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Tom lead the crux, offwidth felt desperate

with Tom le fanu
Derek Ryden 05/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

First pitch E1/2 5b

with Pete Johnson
tim newton 16/May/13 AltLd O/S

Had to have a lie down at the top I was so knackered after the fight in the offwidth. Just what I'd hoped for. Stu made it look so easy on second...and I was just looking forward to having a good chuckle at him. Aah well, can't have everything!

Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Alex Mason 01/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 (E2 5b). Offwidth at top is more like E4 without big cams imo.

with George Ullrich
Hidden 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with loundsy
Dizz 23/Jul/11 2nd

Excellent. Was clean despite the welded wires until the final two metres two far of the route :-)

with David B
dannyboy83 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 07/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led the first pitch, Dan took the crux. Another gogarth classic that puts a smile on your face!

Dave Turnbull, BMC 02/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
with Frank Ramsey
frank ramsay 02/Jul/11 Lead

Offwidth gets harder as you go up. Very nervous squirming to reach the top with gear a long way below (no big cams). Found it a real tussle. Dave seconded it like it was a V Diff.

with Dave Turnbull
centurion05 01/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Such a good route, first pitch is way harder than 5a with average gear. Second pitch is brilliant sustained layback with great gear, then top off width is a battle but good! I started laybacking the offwidth until I was half way up and terrified, then tried to shuffle up my cam, which I couldn't reach. Topped out with holes in my jeans and blood dripping from my ankles! Three star route.

with The Reverend
Hidden 19/May/11 AltLd
Dave Rumney 16/May/11 AltLd
with Dennis Wong
frost 03/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Pete H, Adam
A Crook 03/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Superb route. great layback flake followed by a tustle to the top

with Pete Harrison, Simon Frost
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Lead first pitch. The top pitch is best enjoyed by laybacking, on the second.

zero six ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
bigie bob 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Pete Graham 05/Mar/11 AltLd
with Rick Graham
Marcus ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
dan gibson 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with nick bullock
Hidden 16/May/10 AltLd O/S
soph 01/Jan/10 -
Hidden 06/Dec/09 AltLd
david morse 09/Aug/09 AltLd

Led direct start on pitch 1 (this is never "5a") probably E2 5c, managed pitch 2 clean, just! Stunning route

with Steve
miastacey 02/May/09 2nd
with Bob Smith
Toby Dunn 10/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Randall
DavidEvans ?/Mar/09 2nd

Led Pitch 1

stevebarratt ??/2009 AltLd O/S

Levittator in upper crack. One of the best moments of realisation I've had in climbing.

William Robertson ??/2009 Lead O/S

Good old fashioned stuff. Neededd those big Friends though.

with Steve Wilson
tigertiger ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
tuftynick ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2008 AltLd

At the time I only took Calum out to climb cracks because he wasn't very good at them. It would suffice to say that he has the edge these days...

with Calum Muskett
Rich Kirby 06/Jun/07 AltLd

The start of a great day on Gogarth.

with Craig Smith
Brown 02/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Henry
nige 16/Sep/06 AltLd
with mark hounslea
Bern ??/2006 -
simon kimber ?/Aug/05 Lead dnf
with Chris Stirling
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden 07/Aug/03 Lead
PaulTanton ?/May/02 Lead O/S
TimJM ?/May/01 AltLd

Dave Reynolds lead the difficult pitch. Layback on wide crack at the top the best approach.

with Dave Reynolds
sadams 28/May/00 2nd
with Tom Briggs
Hidden 10/Jul/99 Lead O/S
JulesV ??/1999 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/97 AltLd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Olly Metherall, Jon Sykes
phardman ??/1997 -
michael burrows 14/Apr/95 AltLd rpt

not off width

with richard parry
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
Hidden 13/Aug/94 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 23/Jun/93 Lead O/S


with Alan Holden
Campbell42 12/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with Barry Roberts
Bob 06/May/91 2nd O/S

Did it in one pitch. The hardest moves are on the wall at about half height - the offwidth section is easy :-)

with D. Lampard
keefe ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/88 Lead
michael burrows 18/Jul/88 AltLd O/S

took the escape

with steve ward
Hidden 05/Apr/88 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 05/Aug/87 AltLd
with Ian Kyle
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 29/Aug/82 AltLd
with Mike Butler
uphillnow 29/May/81 2nd

Later lead the route (1984)

with john stanger
Hidden ?/Mar/81 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/80 AltLd
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 03/Jun/79 -
with Tom Jones
ian caton ??/1978 Lead O/S

Copped out right!

with Bill Parker
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Apr/77 2nd
with Dorothy Bogg, John Bogg
steve L 31/Jul/76 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
petemeads ?/Jul/75 Lead O/S

The final offwidth proved troublesome but nevertheless we prevailed. Useful experience for Yosemite!

with Mick Brady
mikej 12/Sep/69 AltLd
with Bill Church
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