Winking Crack** E3 5c
[sink that cam, 3 kb]2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The striking cracks in the towering wall. Sadly the approach pitch is far from classic but the final crack is worth the effort. Scramble up 30 feet to a good ledge below a short wall.
1) 5b, 30m. Harder and more demanding than it appears. Go up a short easy groove before moving left around the arete (start of The Cruise) to gain the corner on the left. Climb this until a stance and block belay (old tapes in place) can be reached on the left.
2) 5c, 36m. Move to the left and climb the crack in the corner. Where the crack divides, follow the left branch. At a small overhang, move left then step back right following cracks to the final offwidth. Layback or thrutch, it's your choice! © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Awesome route with a big man eating offwidth at the top. First pitch is worth E2 5b with tough moves and average gear. Second is also worth E2 5b up until the off width. There is a rest before the top, and you'll probably want to spend as long as possible on it.


Joe Brown

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Wide Cracks, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Thrutch and Clutch.

Photo: sink that cam © jethro kiernan
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 114 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

P2. Honestly didn't find the offwidth any harder than the rest of it (where I overgripped loads). Mostly climbed it face on without going inside or laybacking, which felt pretty natural.
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/15 with Tim Newton

tim newton - AltLd rpt - 15/Aug/15 with rachel slater

Lead p2. Exciting at the top.
markalmack - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/15 with little tom

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/15

Dogged P1, seconded the main show clean
Albachoss - AltLd dog - 27/Jun/15 with Dougie

Great route. Very intimidated by the guide book descriptions but wasn't too bad. the 1st pitch was harder than expected. The second pitch was a brilliant romp on jugs with good gear and then run out through the offwidth, but it'd be hard to fall out...
dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Alex Banks

Lead top pitch
mike lawrence? - AltLd - 23/Jun/15 with FatRob

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/15

jamestaylor92 - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Ed morris

Ed morris - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/15 with James Taylor

Cool route. Planned on laybacking the arete, but once up there, i buried myself in the crack. Awesome.
WB - AltLd O/S - 16/May/15 with Guy

Hardcore. Caff made it look piss, of course. Will be back.
MischaHY - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/15 with Joe Heeley

p2
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/15 with Tom Nichols

i expected the worst and found it quite pleasent
dan ely - AltLd O/S - 2015 with dave chew

Crackin' route. Phil led top pitch leaking a little of himself behind.
NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 14/Sep/14 with Phil Ralfs

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/14

Great route. Would be better as a single pitch
morganator - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/14 with Dan Arkle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/14

Hidden - May/14

Al Evans - 2014 with Jim Moran

Seymore Butt - 2014

I led 1st pitch
Simon Allcock - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/13 with Wilki

Tom lead the crux, offwidth felt desperate
Ramon Marin - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Tom le fanu

First pitch E1/2 5b
Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Pete Johnson

Had to have a lie down at the top I was so knackered after the fight in the offwidth. Just what I'd hoped for. Stu made it look so easy on second...and I was just looking forward to having a good chuckle at him. Aah well, can't have everything!
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 16/May/13 with stuart lade

andybirtwistle - 2013

Stone Idle - 2012

Led P1 (E2 5b). Offwidth at top is more like E4 without big cams imo.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/11 with George Ullrich

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11

belay bunny turned bad - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with loundsy

Excellent. Was clean despite the welded wires until the final two metres two far of the route :-)
Dizz - 2nd - 23/Jul/11 with David B

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Jake

Led the first pitch, Dan took the crux. Another gogarth classic that puts a smile on your face!
jacobjlloyd - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour

Dave Turnbull, BMC - AltLd rpt - 02/Jul/11 with Frank Ramsey

Offwidth gets harder as you go up. Very nervous squirming to reach the top with gear a long way below (no big cams). Found it a real tussle. Dave seconded it like it was a V Diff.
frank ramsay - Lead - 02/Jul/11 with Dave Turnbull

Such a good route, first pitch is way harder than 5a with average gear. Second pitch is brilliant sustained layback with great gear, then top off width is a battle but good! I started laybacking the offwidth until I was half way up and terrified, then tried to shuffle up my cam, which I couldn't reach. Topped out with holes in my jeans and blood dripping from my ankles! Three star route.
centurion05 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/11 with The Reverend

Hidden - AltLd - 19/May/11

Dave Rumney - AltLd - 16/May/11 with Dennis Wong

frost - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Pete H, Adam

Superb route. great layback flake followed by a tustle to the top
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Pete Harrison, Simon Frost

Lead first pitch. The top pitch is best enjoyed by laybacking, on the second.
halfmanhalfbiscuit - Lead O/S - Apr/11

zero six - AltLd O/S - Apr/11

bigie bob - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11

Pete Graham - AltLd - 05/Mar/11 with Rick Graham

Marcus - 2011

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/10 with nick bullock

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/May/10

soph - 01/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Dec/09

Led direct start on pitch 1 (this is never "5a") probably E2 5c, managed pitch 2 clean, just! Stunning route
david morse - AltLd - 09/Aug/09 with Steve

miastacey - 2nd - 02/May/09 with Bob Smith

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/09 with Tom Randall

Led Pitch 1
DavidEvans - 2nd - Mar/09 with adam ellwood

Levittator in upper crack. One of the best moments of realisation I've had in climbing.
stevebarratt - AltLd O/S - 2009 with Dave Morse

Good old fashioned stuff. Neededd those big Friends though.
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 2009 with Steve Wilson

tigertiger - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

tuftynick - 2008

Marcus - 2008

At the time I only took Calum out to climb cracks because he wasn't very good at them. It would suffice to say that he has the edge these days...
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - AltLd - 2008 with Calum Muskett

The start of a great day on Gogarth.
Rich Kirby - AltLd - 06/Jun/07 with Craig Smith

Brown - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Henry

nige - AltLd - 16/Sep/06 with mark hounslea

Bern - 2006

simon kimber - Lead dnf - Aug/05 with Chris Stirling

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Hidden - 2004

Hidden - Lead - 07/Aug/03

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - May/02

Dave Reynolds lead the difficult pitch. Layback on wide crack at the top the best approach.
TimJM - AltLd - May/01 with Dave Reynolds

sadams - 2nd - 28/May/00 with Tom Briggs

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/99

JulesV - Lead O/S - 1999

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Apr/97

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/97 with Olly Metherall, Jon Sykes

phardman - 1997

not off width
michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 14/Apr/95 with richard parry

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/94

Gripper!
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/93 with Alan Holden

Campbell42 - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/92 with Barry Roberts

Did it in one pitch. The hardest moves are on the wall at about half height - the offwidth section is easy :-)
Bob - 2nd O/S - 06/May/91 with D. Lampard

keefe - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

Hidden - Lead - 17/Sep/88

took the escape
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/88 with steve ward

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/88

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

andy gittins - 1985

Hidden - 1985

Hidden - AltLd - 1985

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 29/Aug/82 with Mike Butler

Later lead the route (1984)
uphillnow - 2nd - 29/May/81 with john stanger

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/81

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/80

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1980

Mike Owen - 03/Jun/79 with Tom Jones

Copped out right!
ian caton - Lead O/S - 1978 with Bill Parker

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 2nd - Apr/77 with Dorothy Bogg, John Bogg

steve L - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/76 with sharpie

The final offwidth proved troublesome but nevertheless we prevailed. Useful experience for Yosemite!
petemeads - Lead O/S - Jul/75 with Mick Brady

mikej - AltLd - 12/Sep/69 with Bill Church

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
LJC, ashtond6, adamre12, MichaelGallimore, Andrew Wilson, Dan Geh, masa-alpin, iceaxejuggler, barni, datoon, andymoin, Ian Jones

Voting
Total votes cast 72
hard E40 of 25
E40 of 25
easy E40 of 25
hard E31 of 25
E319 of 25
easy E32 of 25
hard E22 of 25
E20 of 25
easy E21 of 25
hard 6a0 of 24
6a0 of 24
easy 6a0 of 24
hard 5c2 of 24
5c18 of 24
easy 5c3 of 24
hard 5b1 of 24
5b0 of 24
easy 5b0 of 24
3 Stars17 of 23
2 Stars6 of 23
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0 Stars0 of 23
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